Elsa the Poodle Pattern

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Elsa the Poodle Pattern Crochet Pattern by Chie Powles designer of aidie & jellybean

Note from the designer: Thank you for purchasing Elsa the Poodle puppy pattern from aidie & jellybean. This pattern is very versatile. You can use any type of yarn with appropriate sized hooks to create different sized/coloured/textured poodles with this pattern. The best part about an amigurumi is that each and every one is unique and different. So create and enjoy your very own Elsa to keep you company! Copyright © 2019 Chie Powles. Contents of this document MAY NOT be copied, reproduced, altered, translated into other languages, published or distributed in any way. You MAY NOT sell finished products made with this pattern for mass production/commercial purposes. Please credit Chie Powles as the designer when sharing your work on SNS and other public spaces (Chie Powles, www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com).

©2019 Chie Powles

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Size: The finished poodle measures approximately 11cm tall. Skills required: • Crocheting in spiral • Working in single crochet • Working in double crochet • Working in treble crochet • Working in puff stitch • Slip stitch • Chains • Increasing and decreasing • Basic sewing skills Materials and tools: The list below is a reference to show you what I have used to make this poodle. For the head, body, ears and tail • 4 Seasons Flinders Cotton 8Ply Yarn 50 g; Colour SILVER • A strand of BLACK yarn to stitch the nose For the collar • Moda Vera GELATO - 50% acrylic, 50% cotton; 135m / 50g; Colour WHITE For the eyes • MILFORD Mercer 40・20g ; Colour BLACK • MILFORD Mercer 40・20g ; Colour WHITE • Toy safety eyes (optional) • 1.00mm hook Other materials • 2.25/2.5mm hook • Polyester fibrefill • Yarn needle • Sewing needle (to sew on eyes) • Stitch marker (optional) • Scissors

Tip

I recommend using a hook one size smaller than what is specified on the yarn to create tighter stitches. Tighter stitches will give your toy a clean and polished look preventing the stuffing from showing through.


©2019 Chie Powles

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Abbreviations: st(s) = stitch(es) ch = chain sc = single crochet dc = double crochet hdc = half double crochet tr = treble crochet sl st = slip stitch inc = increase (2 sc in one stitch) dec = decrease (2 sc together) (…) = repeat the instructions in the brackets the given number of times […] = total number of stitches *The poodle is crocheted continuously in spiral (unless specified otherwise), marking the beginning of each round with a stitch marker (optional but will be easier to follow for beginners). **Please note that the decrease used in this pattern is a normal sc dec NOT puff st decrease. How to create a puff stitch: Step 1. Yarn over, insert the hook in the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch, yarn over, and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook. 
 
 Step2. Repeat above step 2 more times. You will have 3 half-way completed dc on your hook.
 
 Step 3: Yarn over and draw the yarn through all 4 loops on the hook. 
 
 This completes a 3-double-crochet puff stitch!

Head: *With the SILVER yarn and a 2.25/2.5mm hook Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6] Round 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12] Round 3: (sc in next st, inc) repeat 6 times [18] Round 4: (inc, sc in next 2 sts) repeat 6 times [24] *Stitch the nose after this round (see photos on page 4 for details) Round 5-7: sc in all 24 sts [24]
 Round 8: (dec, sc in next 2 sts) repeat 6 times [18] Round 9: sc in all 18 sts [18] Round 10: (inc, sc in next 2 sts) repeat 6 times [24] ©2019 Chie Powles

If you are using plastic eyes, attach eyes between rounds 9-11 before finishing and closing the head piece.

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Round 11: (sc in the next 3 sts, inc) repeat 6 times. Sl st in first sc, ch2. [30] Round 12: (Puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 15 times [30] Round 13: (sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 15 times [30] Round 14: (Puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 15 times [30] Round 15: (sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 15 times [30] Round 16: (dec, puff st in next st, sc in next st, puff st in next st, dec, sc in next st, puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 3 times [24] Round 17: (Puff st in next st, sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] 
 *start filling with fibrefill Round 18: (dec, puff st in next st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 19: (dec) repeat 6 times [6] Leave a long enough tail to close the opening AND create eye socket dimples. Adding the nose: With the black yarn and yarn needle, working across 4 stitch spaces, stitch the black yarn vertically to shape the nose. Repeat the vertical stitch 3-4 times in each of the 4 spaces. Next, insert the needle in the far left stitch (see photo) and stitch horizontally inserting the needle into the far right stitch. Repeat the horizontal stitch 3-4 times to finish the nose. Tie the two ends together on the inside.

End of round 4. Insert the black yarn from behind starting at the bottom space shown above. Work vertical stitches across the 4 spaces.

End of round 9.

©2019 Chie Powles

After 4 rounds of vertical stitches.

End of round 11.

After 4 rounds of horizontal stitches.

Finished head piece.

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Side view.

With the yarn needle, bring the yarn tail from the back of the head to the front of the face where the eye sockets will be. See above photo for positioning.

Front view.

Insert the needle in the next stitch so you have a line like the photo above. Next, bring the needle through on the opposite side and make the same stitch.

Using a yarn needle, thread the tail through the front loops and pull to tighten. Push the needle through the center and pull through the side. Tie and knot and hide the yarn tail in the head piece.

This is how it will look. Bring the yarn tail to the base of the head and pull tight. This will create two dimples on the face to mimic eye sockets. Tie a knot and secure the yarn tail and weave in the end.

Completed head piece. ©2019 Chie Powles

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Ears: make 2 *With the SILVER yarn and a 2.25/2.5mm hook Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring. Sl st in first sc, ch 2. [6] Round 2: (1 puff st and 1 sc in same st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 3: (sc in next st, puff st and sc in next st, puff st in next st, sc and puff st in next st) repeat 3 times [18] Round 4: (Puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 9 times [18] Round 5: (sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 9 times [18] Round 6: (Puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 9 times [18] Round 7: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 8: (Puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 9: (sc in next st, Puff st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 10: (dec) repeat 6 times [6] Leave tail for sewing and fasten off

End of round 2.

End of round 4

End of round 6.

End of round 7.

Finished ear piece.

Press lightly to flatten.

©2019 Chie Powles

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Eyes: make 2 of each colour (toy safety eyes optional) *With the BLACK lace yarn and a 1.00mm hook Round 1: 5 sc in magic ring [5] Round 2: (inc) repeat 5 times [10] Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off *With the WHITE lace yarn and a 1.00mm hook Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6] Round 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12] Round 3: working only the back loops, sl st in all 12 sts [12] Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off

Place the black piece on top of the white piece so you can see a bit of white around the edges. I like to make an extra stitch within the eye to give it a little bit of a sparkle. This is optional but the extra touch does give her a cuter expression.

Body: *With the SILVER yarn and a 2.25/2.5mm hook Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6] Round 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12] Round 3: (sc in next st, inc) repeat 6 times [18] Round 4: (inc, sc in next 2 sts) repeat 6 times [24] Round 5: (sc in the next 3 sts, inc) repeat 6 times. Sl st in first sc, ch 2. [30] Round 6: (Puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 15 times [30] Round 7: (sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 15 times [30] Round 8: (Puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 15 times [30] Round 9: (sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 15 times [30] Round 10: (dec, sc in next st, puff st in next st, sc in next st, dec, puff st in next st, sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 3 times [24] ©2019 Chie Powles

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Round 11: (puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, (puff st in next 2 sts, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, puff st in next st, sc in next st, (puff st in next 2 sts, sc in next st), repeat 2 times, puff st in next st, sc in next st, puff st in next 2 sts, sc in next st, puff st in next st [24]

Rounds 10-17 are a little tricky and long so I have written them in bullet point form so it’s easier to read.

Round 12: (sc in next st, puff st in next st,) repeat 2 times, (sc in next 2 sts, puff st in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next st, puff st in next st, (sc in next 2 sts, puff st in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next st, puff st in next st, sc in next 2 sts, puff st in next st, sc in next st [24] Round 13: (dec, puff st in next st, sc in next st, dec, sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 3 times [18] Round 14: *Start filling with fibrefill (puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 9 times [18] Round 15: (sc in next 2 sts, puff st in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Round 16: (dec, puff st in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat 3 times [12] Round 17: (puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12]
 Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off

The bottom of the body will be flat. ©2019 Chie Powles

End of round 10.

Finished body piece. www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 8 2

Arms: (make 2) *With the SILVER yarn and a 2.25/2.5mm hook Round 1: 4 sc in magic ring [4] Round 2: (inc) repeat 4 times [8] Round 3-4: sc in all 8 sts [8] Round 5: sc in all 8 sts. Sl st in first sc, ch 2. [8] Round 6: (puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 4 times [8] Round 7: (sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 4 times [8] Round 8: (puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 4 times [8] Round 9: (sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 4 times [8] Round 10: (puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 4 times [8] Round 11: (sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 4 times [8] Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off *No stuffing is required.

Legs: (make 2) *With the SILVER yarn and a 2.25/2.5mm hook Round 1: 4 sc in magic ring [4] Round 2: (inc) repeat 4 times [8] Round 3-6: sc in all 8 sts [8] Round 7: (inc, sc in next st) repeat 4 times. Sl st in first sc, ch 2. [12] Round 8: (puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 9: (sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 10: (puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 11: (sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 12: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 4 times. Sl st in first sc, ch 2. [8] Round 13: (puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 4 times [8] Round 14: (dec) repeat 4 times [4] Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off *No stuffing is required.

Tail: *With the SILVER yarn and a 2.25/2.5mm hook Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring. Sl st in first sc, ch 2.[6] Round 2: (1 puff st and 1 sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 3: (sc in next st, puff st in next st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 4: (puff st in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 5: (dec) repeat 6 times [6] Round 6-8: sc in all 6 sts [6] Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off *No stuffing is required.

©2019 Chie Powles

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Collar: *With the WHITE yarn and a 2.25/2.5mm hook Start with a ch of 26. 
 Round 1: hdc in second ch from hook. Hdc in next 24 ch spaces [25] Leave a tail for weaving and fasten off

Bow: Make 2 *With the WHITE yarn and a 2.25/2.5mm hook In a magic ring, (Ch 3, 4 tr, ch 3, sl st back into magic ring) repeat 2 times. Pull yarn to close loop or magic ring. Leave a long enough tail to wrap around the bow AND for weaving and fasten off.

Nearly finished bow.

©2019 Chie Powles

Wrap the tail around the center of the bow several times. Tie the two yarn tails at the back. You will use these yarn tails to fix the bow on the ears at the end.

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Putting Elsa together Step 1: Sewing the eyes
 If you are opting to use crocheted eyes, you can attach them using a sewing needle. Always work the stitch directly underneath where the eye piece is sitting on.

Position the eyes so the top of the eye sits 1 stitch space below the puff st row. The eyes should sit on top of the eye socket dimples you’ve made.

I have 5 st spaces in between the eyes.

Side view.

Bring the needle up through the top corner of the eye as shown in photo above.

Now bring the stitch across over the top of the eye piece. Make two rounds of this stitch for the eyelids. Bring the yarn tail back to the base of the head and tie the two ends together.

Step 2: Stitching the eyelids

Cut a long enough piece of silver yarn to stitch the eyelids. With a yarn needle, bring the yarn from the base of the head to just above the eyes.

©2019 Chie Powles

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Front view.

Side view.

Step 3: Attaching the ears


Start by sewing the opening closed with the yarn needle.

Position the ear so it sits 2 stitches below the eyelid.

Only attach the ears at the top so it stays dangly.

Pull the yarn tails through the bottom of the head piece. Tie a double knot and trim short.

©2019 Chie Powles

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Step 4: Attaching the head to the body I like to use a stitch called the “mattress stitch” to attach my amigurumi parts. It does take a bit of practice to master but the end result speaks for itself! This method allows the stitch to be “invisible” giving you a very clean finish. The stitch is worked by pulling the yarn through the vertical posts of the body/arm piece and then inserting your needle in the stitch of the head/body piece directly above/ underneath the stitch you just worked on the head/body piece. Repeat this stitch all the way around. Make sure to pull the stitch tight to give it the invisible finish.

Using the mattress stitch and secure the head on to the body piece. Remember to always pick up the vertical posts of the body piece. Pull the stitches tight. This will make your stitches invisible.

©2019 Chie Powles

Always work the stitch that is directly above the vertical post you have just worked. After your last mattress stitch, pick up a loop from the stitch next to it and tie a knot. Hide the yarn tail in the body piece.

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Step 5: Attaching the legs You will start off by closing the opening of the leg pieces using a yarn needle. Remember NOT TO FASTEN OFF as you will be using the same yarn tail to sew the legs onto the body.

Hold the leg in place and start at the back of the leg. Insert the needle into the body piece and sew the leg onto the body. Work your way from the top of the leg to the bottom of the leg.

©2019 Chie Powles

There is no right or wrong way to attach the leg piece. Try to keep it fairly straight so the poodle will sit upright with no support.

When you’re finished, pull the yarn though the body piece. Insert the needle in one of the stitches and tie a knot. Pull the yarn though the body to the other side and cut the remaining yarn off.

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Step 6: Attaching the arms

Start by sewing the opening closed with the yarn needle. I have found preparing my arm piece this way makes it easier to work the mattress stitch.

Position the arm so the top of the arm is 4 rows down from where the head is attached. Sew your arm at a slight angle.

Lift the arm. Sew the underside of the arm using the mattress stitch. Remember to work the vertical post of the arm piece.

Insert the needle from the base of the arm. Pull the yarn through as shown above. You will use this yarn tail to fix the arm to the body.

©2019 Chie Powles

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Step 7: Attaching the tail

Using the mattress stitch, sew the tail on to the body. You can skip a stitch or two of the tail when you’re sewing it on. Just make sure you pull the stitches tight to keep it invisible.


 Final step: Giving Elsa her collar and bows

Using the yarn tails, sew the two ends together. Tie a double knot and hide the yarn tails in the body piece.

©2019 Chie Powles

Attach the bows above her ears. Secure the bow well and hide the yarn tails.

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Hello, Elsa!

©2019 Chie Powles

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