Projectarian Buzz the German ing
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Welcome to the second design in Projectarian’s puppy series! Following on from Rocket the Beagle, Buzz the German Shepherd is the latest pup on the scene with his own toy sheep for practicing his herding skills on.
Get Buzz’s sheep pattern for FREE at my website, Projectarian.com! (Full pattern support from Hooked on Sunshine will be available after testing).
These doggo designs are inspired by my own real-life puppy, Scallop, who you can meet on Instagram in my stories @Projectarian. Buzz has a rigid, versatile shape whose body can be used to make a variety of different breeds of dog. See page 7 for more options. Keep an eye out for even more doggy types in assorted poses, coming soon to Projectarian! I hope you enjoy this project as much as I have!
Share your projects by tagging them with #BuzzTheGermanShepherd on social media.
- Jessie 2
Written in US terminology Size: +/- 40 cm tall, sitting Difficulty: Intermediate
- Chunky (which is the equivalent to yarn weight 5, bulky, 14 ply or 8 wpi). Yarn conversion: Choose yarn with a label that calls for a 5 mm hook or that has a weight similar to 1.6 m/g (this might mean choosing an aran/worsted weight instead). - Double knit (which is the equivalent to yarn weight 3, light worsted, 8 ply or 11 wpi). Yarn conversion: Choose yarn with a label that calls for a 4 mm hook or that has a weight similar to 2.6 m/g.
- 4 ply (which is equivalent to yarn weight 2, fingering or 14 wpi). Yarn conversion: Choose yarn with a label that calls for a 3 mm hook or that has a weight similar to 3.8 m/g.
Instructions for the skills listed below can be found in the Amigurumi Tips booklet included with this pattern. • • • • • •
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Working in rows Working in the round (in a spiral) Accurately counting stitches and rows Using stitch markers and running stitch markers Basic sewing Invisible decrease Changing colours Crocheting into the sides of rows 3
CHUNKY Body Colour (main head, main body, main tail, legs): 280g/450m DOUBLE KNIT Accent Colour (snout, muzzle, eyelids, eye spots, ears, back patch, tail patch): 90g/235m 4 PLY Accent Colour, Dark (pupil, nose, toe separation stitches): 2g/6m Eye White (sclera, reflections): 1g/3m Eye Colour (irises): 1g/3m Flesh Colour (paw pads, toe pads, inner lining of ears): 15g/65m
ELLE VINTAGE, CHUNKY ACRYLIC Body Colour: Diner Dash ELLE PURE GOLD, DK ACRYLIC Accent Colour: Lavender
To make your puppy recognizable as a German Shepherd, use a medium shade as your Body Colour and a dark shade as your Accent Colour. For the eyes, use solid black (or dark grey) for the pupils and pure white for the sclera and reflections.
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1.5 mm hook (eyes) 2 mm hook (eyelids, reflections) 2.5 mm hook (nose, eye spots, toe & paw pads) 3 mm hook (body, head, legs, ears, tail) 3.5 mm hook (inner lining of ears) 4 mm hook (muzzle, patches, snout) Scissors Yarn sewing needle Soft, springy stuffing – approx 275g Pins with a large head Stitch markers
See the gauge section on page 6 for more info on choosing hook sizes.
ELLE PURE GOLD, 4 PLY ACRYLIC Accent Colour, Dark: Titanium Eye White: Lily MIRAGE, 4 PLY ACRYLIC Eye Colour: Soft Green
There are pictures of the completed puppy throughout the Assembly section (pages 38-50).
ELLE BABY VINTAGE, 4 PLY ACRYLIC Flesh Colour: Blossom You may substitute the Body Colour and Flesh Colour with double knit weight yarn instead. In that case, use a 4 mm hook for all those pieces except the inner ears (3 mm hook), toe pads and paw pads (2.5 mm hook).
This toy has not been tested for safety. It may not be suitable for babies or young children.
Cotton yarn is not recommended for this project as it can be tough to sew.
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R - row/round SS - slip stitch/surface stitch SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet DC - double crochet TRC - triple crochet KS - knit stitch Ch/ch-sp - chain/chain-space St/st-sp - stitch/stitch-space Incr - increase Decr - decrease * - section to be repeated […] - all stitches worked into the same space Rem - remaining Sk - skip FLO - front loop only BLO - back loop only WS - wrong side RS - right side YO - yarn over AC Dark - Accent Colour, Dark
TRC: YO twice, draw up a loop (4 loops on hook). *YO, draw through 2 loops* X 3. KS (knit stitch)***: See pages 19-20. SC-decr: Use an invisible decrease by default. SC-incr: Work 2 SC into the same space. DC-incr: Work 2 DC into the same space. KS-incr: Work 2 KS into the same space. ***Also known as the centre single crochet stitch or waistcoat stitch.
Chains and slip stitches do not count as stitches. Do not include these when counting your stitches and do not work into them unless specifically indicated.
Chains should not be worked very tightly. Keep your tension so that each chain is the same length as a SC stitch. This will ensure the correct starting chain height for every row that is started with a chain, and the correct tension for chains or chain spaces that will have stitches worked into them.
When directed to ‘join with a SS,’ simply draw up a loop of yarn at the indicated stitch. Do not chain or use a slipknot unless indicated. When directed to work over a loose end after joining new yarn, work over it for about 3 stitches. This will secure the thread sufficiently without causing a visible bump at the join.
When directed to tie off, cut the yarn to the desired length and then simply pull the loose end through the current loop on your hook. Do not chain 1 first, to avoid making a knot. On some parts you will be directed to chain and tie off, where a knot is required.
On body parts that start with a magic ring, weave in your starting thread to secure it after working the first few rounds.
When you finish sewing a piece, don’t tie a knot, but weave the loose end in and out of the body and its stitches in the area near where you finished sewing until the end is well secured. Then cut it close to the body so it pulls back inside. Be careful not to distort the body when weaving in ends. 5
To achieve the most uniform results, it is advisable to stick to one brand of yarn as far as possible. Yarn thickness may vary wildly between different brands labelled as the same weight. Thickness may even differ between various colours of the same brand of yarn, even when they’re labelled as the same weight. Use the gauge swatches below to adjust your tension and/or tools as needed.
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How to use gauge swatches: Use the suggested hook size with your yarn of choice and follow the gauge patterns below. If your swatch comes out bigger than desired, try smaller hooks until your swatch matches the gauge pattern. Use larger hooks to increase the size of your swatch.
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These gauges only apply to your project if you match their size precisely with your yarn. If you’re making your project in a different size to this pattern your gauge will not match and it may require extra trial and error to find the correct hook size for your yarn.
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SC GAUGE 3 mm hook, Chunky yarn: 5 cm X 5 cm block = 8SC X 9 rows. 4 mm hook, DK yarn: 5 cm X 5 cm block = 8SC X 10 rows. 3 mm hook, DK yarn: 5 cm X 5 cm block = 10SC X 10 rows. 2 mm hook, DK yarn: 3 cm X 3 cm block = 8SC X 8 rows. 3.5 mm hook, 4 ply yarn: 5 cm X 5 cm block = 10SC X 10 rows. 2.5 mm hook, 4 ply yarn: 3 cm X 3 cm block = 8SC X 8 rows. 1.5 mm hook, 4 ply yarn: 3 cm X 3 cm block = 9SC X 10 rows. KNIT STITCH GAUGE 4 mm hook, DK yarn: 5 cm X 5 cm block = 9KS X 10 rows.
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This pattern document is protected by universal copyright law. The design concept of the character in this pattern is protected by copyright; the idea may not be copied. This pattern is not available for free. You may not share this document or any part of it by any means whatsoever. Redistribution in any form is strictly prohibited. Reproduction by filming is prohibited. Language translations of this pattern are prohibited. You may not claim any part of this design as your own under any conditions. You may sell the finished items you have made from this pattern. Using Projectarian’s images for your own marketing purposes is prohibited. Selling yarn kits for this pattern is prohibited without express consent from the designer.
Remember, there is always a real person behind the art!
In the future, enter the coupon code during checkout to get 40% off all puppy patterns! Valid for all new puppies, as their patterns are released.
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Made to the suggested gauge, Buzz will fit into a Rogz mediumsized** collar and H-harness!
**27 cm neck and 39 cm midriff.
Buzz has a versatile body shape that you can use to make a variety of different dogs! Here are some possible colour combinations for inspiration.
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Make 4 Use a 3 mm hook
When you stuff the front paws (during nd
R1: Using Body Colour, ch4. Starting in 2 ch from hook, 2SC, SC-incr in last ch. Working down the opposite side of the ch, 2SC. (6) Continue working in the round and use a running stitch marker. Place a clip-on marker at the starting ch4 for clarity and easy counting of your rounds.
the next section of the pattern), keep in mind they should be firm enough to support
Buzz in his sitting pose.
R2: SC-incr X 6. (12) R3: *1SC, SC-incr* X 6. (18) R4: *2SC, SC-incr* X 6. (24) R5-10: 24SC. (24) R11: *SC-decr, 10SC* X 2. (22) R12: *SC-decr, 9SC* X 2. (20) R13-16: 20SC. (20) Do not tie off. 8
Make 2 Continued from R16 of the paws, using a 3 mm hook
R26: 25SC. (25) R27: 21SC, SC-incr, 3SC. (26) R28: 26SC. (26) R29: 22SC, SC-incr, 3SC. (27) R30: 27SC. Place a stitch marker on the 10th st. (27) Flatten the leg so that the stitch marker at R30 is in the centre. The part of the paw that you can see is the top (i.e. like looking at the back of your hand). The underside is the “palm” of the paw. Stuff the paw firmly up to R15, keeping the top and the underside slightly flattened instead of round like a sausage.
R17-20: 20SC. (20) R21: 1SC, SC-incr, 9SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (22) R22: 2SC, SC-incr, 10SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (24) R23: 7SC, SC-decr X 2, 9SC, SC-incr X 2, 2SC. (24) R24: 24SC. (24) R25: 20SC, SC-incr, 3SC. (25) 9
Once the paw is filled up to R15, flip the leg onto its side. From this point on, flatten the rest of the leg in the opposite direction to the paw, tapering it towards the shoulder as you continue stuffing. Push stuffing into the elbow when you reach it, to make it protrude.
Tie off, leaving a 70 cm thread for sewing. Leave the clip-on markers in place and remove the running stitch marker. Working into FLO, sew the opening closed like a drawstring.
R31: 22SC, SC-incr, 4SC. (28) R32: 28SC. (28) R33: 23SC, SC-incr, 4SC. (29) R34: 23SC, SC-decr, 4SC. (28) R35: 23SC, SC-decr, 3SC. (27) R36: 22SC, SC-decr, 3SC. (26) R37: 21SC, SC-decr, 3SC. (25) R38: 21SC, SC-decr, 2SC. (24) R39: *4SC, SC-decr* X 4. (20) R40: *3SC, SC-decr* X 4. (16) R41: *2SC, SC-decr* X 4. (12) R42: *1SC, SC-decr* X 4. (8) R43: SC-decr X 4. (4)
To help mould the leg into its final shape, squash the paw to flatten it, while squashing the rest of the leg in the opposite direction. Additionally, you can rub the shoulder between your palms to flatten it.
Left: Side view. Right: Front view.
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Make 2 Continued from R16 of the paws, using a 3 mm hook
R23: 22SC, SC-incr, 4SC. (28) R24: 23SC, SC-incr, 4SC. (29) R25: 24SC, SC-incr, 4SC. (30) R26: 24SC, SC-incr, 5SC. (31) R27: 25SC, SC-incr, 5SC. (32) R28: 25SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (33) R29: 26SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (34) R30: 10SC, SC-incr X 2, 15SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (37) Place a stitch marker at the last increase on R30. R31: 11SC, SC-incr X 2, 17SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (40)
R17: 1SC, SC-incr, 9SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (22) R18: 2SC, SC-incr, 10SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (24) R19: 7SC, SC-decr X 2, 9SC, SC-incr X 2, 2SC. (24) R20: 20SC, SC-incr, 3SC. (25) R21: 21SC, SC-incr, 3SC. (26) R22: 22SC, SC-incr, 3SC. (27)
Flatten the leg so that the stitch marker at R30 is in the centre. Like the front leg, the part of the paw that you can see is the top. Stuff the paw up to R15, keeping the top and the underside slightly flattened instead of round like a sausage (same as front legs). 11
Once the paw is filled up to R15, flip the leg onto its side. Now you can see the hock. From this point on, flatten the rest of the leg in the opposite direction as you continue stuffing and crocheting until the end. Flatten the inner thigh more, so that it can lay flat against the body, and make the outer thigh rounded. Push stuffing into the hock to make it protrude.
R43: *7SC, SC-decr* X 5. (40) R44: *6SC, SC-decr* X 5. (35) R45: *5SC, SC-decr* X 5. (30) R46: *4SC, SC-decr* X 5. (25) R47: *3SC, SC-decr* X 5. (20) R48: *2SC, SC-decr* X 5. (15) R49: *1SC, SC-decr* X 5. (10) R50: SC-decr X 5. (5) Tie off, leaving a 70 cm thread for sewing. Leave the clip-on markers in place and remove the running stitch marker. Working into FLO, sew the opening closed like a drawstring. Left: Side view. Right: Front view.
The thigh should be stuffed very softly in order to flatten it sufficiently. See pages 46-47 for how the legs should fit on the body and adjust the stuffing as needed. The thigh should blend onto the body; it should not look like a chicken drumstick.
R32: 12SC, SC-incr X 2, 19SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (43) R33: 13SC, SC-incr X 2, 21SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (46) R34: 14SC, SC-incr X 2, 22SC, SC-incr, 7SC. (49) R35: 15SC, SC-incr X 2, 24SC, SC-incr, 7SC. (52) R36: 16SC, SC-incr X 2, 26SC, SC-incr, 7SC. (55) R37-40: 55SC. (55) R41: *9SC, SC-decr* X 5. (50) R42: *8SC, SC-decr* X 5. (45)
When you make
the second leg, shape it while you’re stuffing to be a mirror image of the first leg.
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PAW PADS Make 4 Use a 2.5 mm hook
R2: [1SS, 1HDC] in the next st. DC-incr, [1HDC, 1SS] in the next st. [1HDC, 1DC] in the next st. [1DC, 1HDC] in the next st. 1SS, [1HDC, 1DC] in the next st. [1DC, 1HDC] in the next st. (15, incl SS) R3: Note: The SS of this R are worked into the SS of the previous R. 1SS, 1SC, SC-incr X 2, 1SC, 1SS, [1SC, 1HDC] in the next st. [1DC, 1TRC] in the next st. [1TRC, 1DC] in the next st. [1HDC, 1SC] in the next st. 1SS, [1SC, 1HDC] in the next st. [1DC, 1TRC] in the next st. [1TRC, 1DC] in the next st. [1HDC, 1SC] in the next st. (25, incl SS) SS in the next st to taper off your round. Tie off, leaving a 45 cm thread for sewing. Remove the
R1: Using Flesh Colour, 8SC in magic ring. (8)
running stitch marker.
Continue working in the round and use a running stitch marker. 13
TOE PADS Make 18 (5 per front paw, 4 per back paw) Use a 2.5 mm hook
R1: Using Flesh Colour, 5SC in magic ring. (5) Continue working in the round. R2: SC-incr X 5. (10) SS in the next st to taper off your round. Tie off, leaving a 25 cm thread for sewing. The loose end from R1 can be bundled up under the toe as stuffing.
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Make 2 Use a 1.5 mm hook
R4: Work in BLO. Counting from the 1st SC of R3, skip the 1st 2 sts then join Eye Colour with a SS at the 3rd SC.
SS do not count as stitches. Do not work into them. R1: Using AC Dark, 5SC in magic ring. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (5) R2: Ch1, SC-incr X 5. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (10) R3: Ch1, *1SC, SC-incr* X 5. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (15) Do not tie off. Remove the loop from your hook and attach a stitch marker to keep it from unravelling.
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Starting in the next st and working the loose end in as you go, *1SC, SC-incr* X 4, 1SC, 1SS, leaving rem 2 sts unworked. (13)
Working into the 1st st of the Eye Colour row,
Tie off.
[1SC, 1DC] in the next st, ch1 (mark this ch if you
R5: Do not work the loose ends in as you go. Work in BLO. Return to R3 and place the AC Dark yarn back on your hook.
Ch1. Starting in the 1st st of R3, 2SC, SC-incr (in 3rd SC of R3).
SC-incr.
have trouble identifying your stitches), 1DC, 1HDC, SC-incr, 3SC, SC-incr, 1HDC, 1DC, ch1, [1DC, 1SC] in the next st.
SC-incr in the next Eye Colour st, then SC-incr in the next AC Dark st.
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2SC. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (29, incl 2 ch)
Starting in the next st, work one surface stitch into each of the next 10 sts (these are the same sts that R5 is worked into). (10)
Tie off. Insert your hook at the 2nd Eye Colour st on R4 and draw up a loop of Eye White, leaving a 10 cm tail.
Tie off. To tie off, simply pull the loop that is currently on your hook and cut it. Use your hook to pull the loose end through the next Eye Colour st to the back of the eye.
In this next step, control your tension so that the SS do not squeeze and deform the eye at all. To create the SS, simply insert your hook into the desired space and draw up a loop from the back of your workpiece to the front, through that same st-space.
Insert your hook from front to back at the 1st Eye Colour st on R4 and pull the starting thread of Eye White to the front of the eye, then use your hook to pull it through the next st to the back of the eye.
Insert your hook in the next space as directed and repeat, drawing up your yarn from the back of the eye through each stitch as you go. 17
EYELIDS Use a 2 mm hook Do not work the loose ends in as you go R1: Work in BLO. In the chain of the 1st ch-sp on R5, join Accent Colour with a SS (remove any markers used).
Ch1, starting in the same sp, 1SC, SC-incr, 9SC, SC-incr, 1SC, SC-incr, 14SC (do not work into the SS), SC-incr. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (33)
1SS in the BLO of the 1st SC on R1. Tie off, leaving a 40 cm thread for sewing. To keep all the loose ends secure, turn to the back of the eye and give each thread a firm tug, then weave them in.
EYE SPOTS Make 2 Use a 2.5 mm hook
R1: Using Accent Colour, 6SC in magic ring. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (6) R2: Ch1, SC-incr X 6. Do not join with a SS. (12) Tie off, leaving a 15 cm thread for sewing. R2: Do not ch1. Work in BLO. Turn, sk the SS. Starting in the last SC of R1, 3SS, 12SC, 4SS. (19, incl SS)
EYE REFLECTIONS Make 2 Use a 2 mm hook
R3: Do not ch1. Turn, working into the unused back loops of R2 and starting in the 1st available st, 4SS, 12SC, 3SS. (19, incl SS)
Using Eye White, 5SC in magic ring. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (5) Tie off, leaving a 10 cm thread for sewing.
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Knit Stitch (KS) Gauge
In order to work the knit stitch, it’s important
5 cm X 5 cm block = 9KS X 10 rows
that you are able to see and recognize the various loops that make up a SC stitch. The illustrations in this section show SC stitches worked with a large hook and thick yarn (8 mm and mega chunky) for clarity. Inspect your SC stitches and note the V shape of each stitch post. Turn your workpiece over (WS facing up) and note that the V shape of the stitch post is upside down on this side. Left: RS. Right: WS.
You may need to practise the knit stitch for a few rows before making your muzzle. Practise with thick yarn that doesn’t split easily and use an over-sized hook to get the hang of the KS. If you already know how to work the knit stitch, skip to page 21. 19
The knit stitch is worked in exactly the same
To finish off a row, the last stitch (or stitches, if
manner as a SC, but into the stitch posts instead
you’re working an increase) should be worked
of the stitch loops.
just like a regular SC into the last available stitch loops of the previous row (just like you would
The KS on the muzzle will always be worked -
into the upside-down V
-
on the WS of your previous row
-
directly below the 2 horizontal loops of
finish a regular row of SC).
the SC When working the KS, keep your tension loose. The KS is tighter than the SC so it will be difficult to get your hook through the correct spaces using the same tension as you have for the rest
To work a KS-increase, simply work 2KS into the same space.
of this project. On the muzzle, row 2 will be the foundation for your knit stitches. You will work knit stitches in row 3 and onwards. To start a practise swatch, ch10, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 1SC in each ch. (9) To begin a row of KS, ch1, turn. Do not work into the last st of your previous row but begin in the 2nd to last st post. Insert your hook through the upside-down V and push it all the way through the stitch post, so that it comes cleanly out the right-side-up V on the other side of the stitch, thus creating a KS through the exact centre of the stitch post.
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MUZZLE Use a 4 mm hook
R16: Repeat R15 but work into the stitch loops as you would crochet regular stitches. (24)
R1: At the end of this row, do not pull the magic ring tight or weave in the loose end yet. Work the stitches in this row tighter than your regular tension. Using Accent Colour, 4SC in magic ring. (4) R2: From this point onwards, work all stitches looser than your regular tension but keep the tension of your turning chain as normal. Ch1,
See the Amigurumi
turn. SC-incr X 4. (8)
Tips booklet on how to work into
Tip: Your first row of KS (R3) will probably be the most awkward to work but it should get easier from here. From this point on, if you struggle to get your hook through the correct space, your tension is too tight.
the sides of the rows.
EDGE AROUND THE MUZZLE R3: Ch1, turn. *1KS, KS-incr* X 4. (12) R4: Ch1, turn. *2KS, KS-incr* X 4. (16) R5: Ch1, turn. *3KS, KS-incr* X 4. (20) R6: Ch1, turn. *4KS, KS-incr* X 4. (24) R7-14: Ch1, turn. 24KS. (24)
R1: Ch1, starting in the last st of R16, work 2SC into the side of each of the 1st 2 rows. Tip: When working 2SC into the side of a row of DC, work 1SC into the stitch loops and 1SC around the post of the stitch to avoid making a large hole.
R15: Continue working into the stitch posts as you did with the KS, keeping the tension tight on longer stitches (i.e. DC/HDC stitches). Ch2, turn. 2DC, 1HDC, 5SC, 1HDC, 6DC, 1HDC, 5SC, 1HDC, 2DC. (24)
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1SC in each of the next 14 rows.
Tie off, leaving a 45 cm thread for sewing.
SS into the magic ring at R1. 1SC in each of the next 14 rows. 2SC into the side of each of the last 2 rows. Pull the magic ring tightly closed and weave in the loose end.
Note: The 6 DC stitches in the middle of the muzzle are the bridge.
Total st count = 37 (incl SS at magic ring) Do not tie off.
R2: Do not ch1. Turn, starting in the last SC that you worked, 1SS in the next 36 sts, skipping the SS. (36)
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If your Body Colour and Accent Colour yarns are of equal thickness, ignore directions to change hook sizes during this section.
R3: *1SC, SC-incr* X 6. (18) R4: *2SC, SC-incr* X 6. (24) R5: *SC-incr, 11SC* X 2. (26) R6: 26SC. (26) R7: 1SC, SC-incr, 12SC, SC-incr, 11SC. (28) R8-12: 28SC. (28) R13: 2SC, SC-incr, 13SC, SC-incr, 11SC. (30) R14: 30SC, change to Body Colour and a 3 mm hook on the last SC. Cut Accent Colour and work the loose ends in as you go. (30) R15: *2SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (34)
Use a 4 mm & 3 mm hook
R16: *3SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (38)
R1: Using Accent Colour and a 4 mm hook, 6SC in magic ring. (6)
R18: *5SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (46)
R17: *4SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (42) R19: *6SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (50) R20: *7SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (54)
Continue working in the round and use a running stitch marker. R2: SC-incr X 6. (12)
R21: *8SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (58) R22-35: 58SC. (58) R36: *8SC, SC-decr* X 4, 18SC. (54) R37: *7SC, SC-decr* X 6. (48)
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R38: *6SC, SC-decr* X 6. (42) Stuff the snout, making it blunt, flat and firm. Continue stuffing the head firmly but don’t overstuff it. Make sure that the muzzle still fits over the snout, covering the whole of R1, up to and including R16.
Place the muzzle and eyes on the head (do not sew them) to check if the stuffing needs adjustments. See the Assembly section on pages 39-40 for the correct positions.
R39: *5SC, SC-decr* X 6. (36) R40: *4SC, SC-decr* X 6. (30) R41: *3SC, SC-decr* X 6. (24) R42: *2SC, SC-decr* X 6. (18) R43: *1SC, SC-decr* X 6. (12) R44: SC-decr X 6. (6) Tie off and remove the running stitch marker. Working into FLO, sew the opening closed like a drawstring and weave in the loose end.
The 4 increases of R15 should be centred across the top of the snout (marked in the images above with yellow pins). Keep the bottom of the head flat as you stuff it. Fill the forehead sufficiently to create a flat area for the eyes to fit on. The eyes should be able to fit in a forward-facing position above the snout with the bridge of the muzzle between them.
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Make 2 in Flesh Colour using a 3.5 mm hook Make 2 in Accent Colour using a 3 mm hook Use regular decreases, not invisible decreases R1: 3SC in magic ring (mark the magic ring if you have trouble identifying your stitches). (3)
R15: Ch1, turn. 17SC. (17) R16: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 12SC, 1SS. Leave rem 3 sts unworked. (14) R17: Do not ch1. Turn, skip the SS. 1SS in 1st SC, 13SC. (13) Left: R16. Right: R17.
R2: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 1SC, SC-incr. (5) R3: Ch1, turn. 5SC. (5) R4: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 3SC, SC-incr. (7) R5: Ch1, turn. 7SC. (7) R6: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 5SC, SC-incr. (9) R7: Ch1, turn. 9SC. (9) R8: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 7SC, SC-incr. (11) R9: Ch1, turn. 11SC. (11) R10: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 9SC, SC-incr. (13) R11: Ch1, turn. 13SC. (13) R12: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 11SC, SC-incr. (15) R13: Ch1, turn. 15SC. (15) R14: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 13SC, SC-incr. (17)
R18: Ch1, turn. 12SC, 1SS. (12) R19: Do not ch1. Turn, skip the SS. 1SS in 1st SC, 11SC. (11) R20: Ch1, turn. 10SC, 1SS. (10) R21: Do not ch1. Turn, skip the SS. 1SS in 1st SC, 7SC, SC-decr. (8) 25
R22: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 5SC, 1SS. (6) R23: Do not ch1. Turn, skip the SS. 1SS in 1st SC, 5SC. (5)
1SC in each of the next 2 sts. [SC, ch1, SC] in the next st.
EDGE AROUND THE EAR R1: Ch1, turn. 4SC, SC-incr.
1SC in each of the next 13 rows.
On the edge of inner ear 2 and outer ear 2, place a stitch marker on the 5th SC. SC-incr in R1 (do not work into the magic ring and remove the stitch marker from the magic 1SC into the sides of the next 7 rows.
ring if you’ve used one).
26
Working down the other side of the ear and working the loose end in as you go, SC-incr in R1.
1SC in each of the next 21 rows.
Inner ear 1: Ch1, tie off. Turn over. Inner ear 2: Ch1, tie off. Outer ear 1: Do not tie off. Turn over. Outer ear 2: Ch1, tie off.
JOINING INNER AND OUTER EAR 1 This is the right ear Use a 3 mm hook Place inner ear 1 on top of outer ear 1 so that the stitches line up. Continue working with Accent Colour and ch1.
Skip the next row and join with a SS in 1st SC of the ear’s edge.
Insert your hook in the WS of the last SC on the inner ear. Push your hook through the WS of the last SC on the outer ear as well. Both ear pieces are now on your hook. Work 1SC to join the pieces. Total st count = 56, incl ch. R2: Do not ch1. Turn, skip the SS. 22SC, SC-incr X 2, 14SC, SC-incr. (42) 27
Continue working through both ear pieces. 16SC, SC-incr X 2, 23SC, 4SC, 1SS. (48)
Join Accent Colour with a SS, do not ch1. Continue working through both ear pieces and work the loose end in as you go. Starting in the next st, 4SC, 23SC, SC-incr X 2, 17SC. (48)
Tie off, leaving a 1 m thread for sewing. JOINING INNER AND OUTER EAR 2
Tie off, leaving a 1 m thread for sewing.
This is the left ear Use a 3 mm hook Place inner ear 2 on top of outer ear 2 so that the stitches line up. On the edge of the inner ear, insert your hook in the WS of the 5th SC (the marked st). Push your hook through the WS of the 5th SC on the outer ear as well. Both pieces are now on your hook. Remove the stitch markers as you go.
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Use a 3 mm hook R1: Using Body Colour, 8SC in magic ring. (8) Continue working in the round and use a running stitch marker. R2: 1SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (9) R3: 2SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (10) R4: 3SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (11) R5: 4SC, SC-incr, 2SC, 4HDC. (12) R6: 2HDC, 3SC, SC-incr, 2SC, 4HDC. (13) R7: 3HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 2SC, 3HDC. (14) R8: 3HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 3SC, 3HDC. (15) R9: 4HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 3SC, 3HDC. (16) R10: 4HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (17) R11: 5HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (18) R12: 6HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (19) R13: 7HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (20) R14: 7HDC, 5SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (21) R15: 8HDC, 5SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (22)
R16: 9HDC, 5SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (23) R17: 10HDC, 5SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (24) R18: 11HDC, 5SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (25) R19: 12HDC, 6SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 2HDC. (26) R20: 13HDC, 12SC, 1HDC. (26) R21: 14HDC, 12SC. (26) R22: 1SC, 14HDC, 11SC. (26) R23: 2SC, 13HDC, 11SC. (26) R24: 3SC, 12HDC, 11SC. (26) R25: 4SC, 11HDC, 11SC. (26) R26: 5SC, 10HDC, 11SC. (26) SS in the next 2 sts to taper off your round. Tie off, leaving a 40 cm thread for sewing. Stuff the tail, allowing it to curve. Remove the running stitch marker.
29
Use a 4 mm hook R1: Using Accent Colour, 4SC in magic ring
R18: Ch1, turn. 12SC. (12) R19: Ch1, turn. 11SC, SC-incr. (13) R20-25: Ch1, turn. 13SC. (13)
(mark the magic ring if you have trouble identifying your stitches). (4) R2: Ch1, turn. 4SC. (4) R3: Ch1, turn. 3SC, SC-incr. (5) R4: Ch1, turn. 5SC. (5) R5: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 4SC. (6) R6: Ch1, turn. 6SC. (6) R7: Ch1, turn. 5SC, SC-incr. (7) R8: Ch1, turn. 7SC. (7) R9: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 6SC. (8) R10: Ch1, turn. 8SC. (8) R11: Ch1, turn. 7SC, SC-incr. (9) R12: Ch1, turn. 9SC. (9) R13: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 8SC. (10) R14: Ch1, turn. 10SC. (10) R15: Ch1, turn. 9SC, SC-incr. (11) R16: Ch1, turn. 11SC. (11) R17: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 10SC. (12)
Do not tie off. EDGE AROUND THE TAIL PATCH Ch1, starting in R25 and working into the sides of the rows, work 1SC into each row for the next 24 rows. SC-incr in R1 (do not work into the magic ring and remove the stitch marker if you’ve used one).
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Working down the other side of the tail patch and working the loose end in as you go, SC-incr in R1. 1SC in each of the next 24 rows. Ch1, SS in the same st. (52)
Tie off, leaving a 90 cm thread for sewing.
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Use a 3 mm hook R1: Using Body Colour, 8SC in magic ring. (8) Continue working in the round and use a running stitch marker. R2: *1SC, SC-incr* X 4. (12) R3: *2SC, SC-incr* X 4. (16) R4: *3SC, SC-incr* X 4. (20) R5: *4SC, SC-incr* X 4. (24) R6: *5SC, SC-incr* X 4. (28) R7: *6SC, SC-incr* X 4. (32) R8: *7SC, SC-incr* X 4. (36) R9: *8SC, SC-incr* X 4. (40) R10: *9SC, SC-incr* X 4. (44) R11: *10SC, SC-incr* X 4. (48) R12: 20SC, SC-incr, 27SC. (49) R13: 21SC, SC-incr, 27SC. (50) R14: 22SC, SC-incr, 27SC. (51) R15: 23SC, SC-incr, 27SC. (52)
R16: 23SC, SC-incr, 28SC. (53) R17: 24SC, SC-incr, 28SC. (54) R18: 25SC, SC-incr, 28SC. (55) R19: 26SC, SC-incr, 28SC. (56) R20: 26SC, SC-incr, 29SC. (57) R21: 27SC, SC-incr, 29SC. (58) R22: 28SC, SC-incr, 29SC. (59) R23: 29SC, SC-incr, 29SC. (60) R24-32: 60SC. (60) R33: *18SC, SC-decr* X 3. (57) R34: 57SC. (57) R35: *17SC, SC-decr* X 3. (54) R36: 54SC. (54) R37: *16SC, SC-decr* X 3. (51) R38: 51SC. (51) R39: *15SC, SC-decr* X 3. (48) R40: 48SC. (48) R41: *14SC, SC-decr* X 3. (45) R42: 45SC. (45) R43: 5SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 17SC. (45) R44: 6SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 16SC. (45) 32
R45: 7SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 15SC. (45) R46-47: 8SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 14SC. (45) R48: 9SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 13SC. (45) R49: 10SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 12SC. (45) R50-51: 11SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 11SC. (45) R52: 12SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 10SC. (45) R53-54: 13SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 9SC. (45) Tie off, leaving a 1 m thread for sewing. Remove the running stitch marker and stuff the body. Top view (dog’s spine).
Side view.
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Use a 4 mm hook Use regular decreases, not invisible decreases R1: Using Accent Colour, ch7. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6SC. (6) R2: Ch1, turn. SC-incr X 6. (12) R3: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 10SC, SC-incr. (14) R4: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 12SC, SC-incr. (16) R5: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 14SC, SC-incr. (18) R6: Ch1, turn. 18SC. (18) R7: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 16SC, SC-incr. (20) R8-9: Ch1, turn. 20SC. (20) R10: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 18SC, SC-incr. (22) R11-12: Ch1, turn. 22SC. (22) R13: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 20SC, SC-incr. (24) R14-15: Ch1, turn. 24SC. (24) R16: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 22SC, SC-incr. (26) R17-18: Ch1, turn. 26SC. (26) R19: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 24SC, SC-incr. (28) R20-27: Ch1, turn. 28SC. (28)
R28: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 24SC, SC-decr. (26) R29: Ch1, turn. 26SC. (26) R30: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 22SC, SC-decr. (24) R31: Ch1, turn. 24SC. (24) R32: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 20SC, SC-decr. (22) R33: Ch1, turn. 22SC. (22) R34: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 18SC, SC-decr. (20) R35: Ch1, turn. 20SC. (20) R36: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 16SC, SC-decr. (18) R37: Ch1, turn. 18SC. (18) R38: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 14SC, SC-decr. (16) R39: Ch1, turn. 16SC. (16) R40: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 12SC, SC-decr. (14) R41: Ch1, turn. 14SC. (14) R42: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 10SC, SC-decr. (12) R43: Ch1, turn. 12SC. (12) R44: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 8SC, SC-decr. (10) R45: Ch1, turn. 10SC. (10) R46: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 6SC, SC-decr. (8) R47: Ch1, turn. 8SC. (8) R48: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 4SC, SC-decr. (6) 34
R49: Ch1, turn. 6SC. (6) R50: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 2SC, SC-decr. (4) R51: Ch1, turn. 4SC. (4) R52: Ch1, turn. SC-decr X 2. (2) R53: Ch1, turn. 2SC. (2) R54: Ch1, turn. SC-decr. (1) R55: Ch1, turn. 1SC. (1) Do not tie off.
Lay the back patch on the body to check if the stuffing needs adjustments. See the Assembly section on page 44 for the correct position.
EDGE AROUND THE BACK PATCH Ch1, working into the sides of the rows, work 1SC into each row for the next 54 rows. Working the loose end in as you go, 1SC in each of the 6 ch. 1SC in each of the next 54 rows. 3SC in the last row. Join with a SS in the 1st SC. (117)
Tie off, leaving a 2.2 m thread for sewing.
35
Use a 2.5 mm hook and work the stitches tightly
Do not tie off. At this stage, the nose should measure 2 cm across.
R1: Using AC Dark, 1SC in magic ring. (1) R2: Ch1, turn. 3SC, all into the same st. (3) R3: Ch2, turn. [HDC, SC] in the 1st st. SC-incr in the next st. [SC, HDC] in the last st. (6) R4: Ch2, turn. HDC, 4SC, HDC. (6)
EDGE AROUND THE NOSE Ch1, working into the sides of the rows, 2SC in each of the 1st 2 rows. 1SC in each of the next 2 rows.
36
Ch1, then working up the other side of the nose, 1SC in each of the next 2 rows. 2SC in each of the remaining 2 rows.
This time, work into the ch and the SS as you go. Starting in the next SC (do not work the loose end in), 12SC, 1SS. (12) The nose pictured below has been squashed flat for illustrative purposes.
Ch1, 1SC in each st across R4 (6 sts). Join with a SS in 1st SC. (18) Note the shield shape of the nose and preserve this shape as you continue.
Tie off, leaving a 40 cm thread for sewing. Weave in the loose ends. To shape the nose correctly, bend it crisply along the last row of stitches that you worked, to create square sides. The nose should still be shield shaped from the front, but wedge shaped from the side.
Tie off. Counting backwards from the last SC (do not count the SS or ch), skip 8 SC and join new yarn with a SS at the 9th st. Do not ch1.
37
See the Amigurumi Tips booklet for sewing techniques.
As you assemble Buzz, double check each new attachment from all angles for straightness and symmetry before sewing. Since your puppy’s parts are worked in the round, they are made out of spirals. When you attach sets of features (eyes, ears,
It is advisable to pin your whole pup together and get an idea of the pieces’ positions as well as the character you’d like to create, then unpin everything and assemble your puppy piece by piece.
legs) onto him, they might not fall on the exact same round in order to be symmetrical. Inspect your placements from all sides while pinning and adjust them as needed for symmetry.
38
Check that the muzzle is centred with the increases of R15 on the head. A: Pin the inward curves, covering the last Accent Colour round of the snout (R14). B: Pin the outer corners of the muzzle, pulling them upwards into a curvy smile.
Pin the magic ring of the muzzle to the magic ring of the snout. The top lips should be well rounded so tug them into shape if needed.
C and D mark the 1st and last DC at the bridge of the muzzle. Smooth the bridge of the muzzle up towards the forehead and pin it along R17 so that the DC stitches span from the 2nd to the 3rd increases on the head. Keep the corners sharp on either side. Pin the entire row in place, preserving the curves and corners as you go.
Smooth the muzzle down to cover the snout without stretching it. The last row of the muzzle should fall at R17 of the head, but it’s more important that the muzzle lays flat and covers the snout than at which round it falls.
Sew the muzzle, attaching only the pinned section to the head.
39
Place a small amount of stuffing behind the top eyelids to help the eyes point forward if Optional: Attach the nose first (page 49).
needed.
Pin the inner corners of the eyes on either side
There should be 6 sts open between the eyes
of the muzzle so that they face forward. Check that the forehead is not slanted like a car’s windscreen, but flattened so that the eyes can point directly forward instead of upwards.
across the forehead (just above the bridge of the muzzle). Finish pinning all around the eyes then sew them in place. When you sew the top of the eye, work into the stitch loops on the last row only.
Keeping the pins in place, check the head from the side and swivel the eyes until they are looking straight ahead. The outer corners of the eyes will likely be positioned about 1SC higher than the inner corners. Checking the head from the front, the eyes should not be slanted. Adjust them as needed.
40
Place the eye spots 4 rounds above the muzzle with 4-5 sts open between them at the narrowest part. Pin and sew them in place.
The increase on the last round of the neck marks the centre. Line up the body with the Left eye: Place the reflection at the top right
head so that they are centred.
edge of the pupil, not overlapping the dark outline of the eye (R5 worked with AC Dark). Right eye: Place the reflection at the top left edge of the pupil, to create a mirror image of the left eye. Pin and sew them in place.
Counting downwards from the closing round of the head, leave 6 rounds then pin the back of the neck to the head. Counting downwards from the magic ring at the snout, leave 19 rounds open then pin the front of the neck to the head.
Pin the rest of the free edge to the head, then sew it in place, adding more stuffing as you go if needed. Do not overstuff the neck. It should be firm enough to support the head, but it should not bulge at the sewing seam.
41
Fill the paw pad with stuffing, then with the loose end on the right-hand side, pin it in place directly below the 2 toes so that it’s nestled right up to them, preserving the 3-leaf clover shape.
Assembly of the paws is illustrated on Rocket the Beagle’s legs.
Place 2 more toe pads on either side of the first 2, so that they are nestled up to both the toe pads and the paw pad, then pin them.
The paws should be placed on the opposite side to the stitch markers on R30, as illustrated below. Left: Front leg. Right: Back leg.
Mould each toe pad into a bowl shape and stuff it with the loose end from the magic ring or use a tiny bit of stuffing. Leave R1 of the paw open then place 2 toe pads right next to each other (with no space between them) on the bottom of the paw and pin them.
Make sure there is no open space between the 5 pieces then sew them in place onto the paw.
On the front legs, leave 3 rounds open behind the paw pad then pin and sew the fifth toe pad on each paw.
42
Thread your needle with 40 cm of AC Dark. Push your needle in between the 2 middle toes of a paw, at the very edge of the paw pad. Bring it out at the top centre of the paw (at the middle marker) between R6 and 7, leaving a 10 cm thread under the paw.
In the following instructions, the position of the stitches to be sewn into the top of the paw are a guide only. Depending on the exact placement of your paw pads, you might sew your toes in slightly different positions. The goal is to split your paw evenly into 4 toes by sewing 3 long, straight stitches. The centre stitch should be shorter than the 2 stitches on either side. Keep your stitches tight as you go.
Bring your yarn over the front of the paw and sew back into the starting point, but this time push your needle out between the 2 left toes as illustrated. Holding the loose end so it doesn’t get pulled through, pull your stitch tight to form the first toes.
Remove any remaining markers. Mark the top centre of the paw at R6. Add 2 more markers on R7 with 3 sts open across the centre of the paw between the 2 markers. Remove the markers as you sew into the marked spaces.
Bring your yarn over the front of the paw again, sew into the marked space as illustrated, between R7 and 8 (left marker), pushing your needle out between the remaining 2 toes (your needle will go through the paw at an angle). Pull tight to form another toe.
43
Bring your yarn over the front of the paw again, sew into the marked space as illustrated, between R7 and 8 (right marker), pushing your needle out at the starting point once again. IMPORTANT: The loose end must come out of the exact same stitch hole as the starting thread. Pull tight to form the last toe.
Making sure all toe stitches and loose ends are pulled tight, tie the ends together in a secure knot, then release the ends so that the knot is pulled back inside the paw. Weave the loose ends into the paw. Sew the toes in the same manner on all 4 paws.
Count 6 rounds upwards from the closing round of the head then pin the point of the back patch to the centreline of the head. Smooth the patch down over the body without stretching it. There should be 8 rounds open between the magic ring of the body and the backmost edge of the back patch. Pin all around the patch and sew it in place.
The front paws should rest on the ground when the puppy is in a sitting pose. To achieve this, curve the ankles, making the front legs bend at the back of the paw pads, as illustrated. Bent leg vs unbent leg.
44
Swivel the leg so that the edge of the shoulder is level with the body rounds as illustrated. Pin along the top of the shoulder, following that round of the body. As the shoulder curves down, pin it to the body for another 6 rounds.
Squash the shoulders down firmly onto the body with your palm as you pin them. Flatten them enough to make a crisp edge, then pin that edge. See the Amigurumi Tips booklet for more pinning tips.
On the side of the body, leave 5 rounds open from the top of the neck, then place a front leg so that it’s centred on the side of the body and insert one pin at the closing round.
Pin down the back of the shoulder up to the elbow, preserving its point. Continue pinning down the back of the leg, up to the edge of the patch.
With both legs pinned, your puppy should be able to sit with paw pads resting on your work surface. Adjust the leg position if needed to achieve a sturdy, balanced pose.
45
When sewing the legs, use lots of small, tight stitches, working one whipstitch into every available round of the leg and the body. Sew down the front of the leg from the top of the shoulder to the last pin, 6 rounds down. Then sew along a diagonal, working your way in a straight line towards the last pin at the edge of the back patch (sew these sts by weaving your needle in and out between the leg and body).
As with the front legs, squash the thighs down firmly to create a crisp edge for pinning in place.
Flattening the inner thighs as much as possible (described on page 12) will make attachment easier and help the pieces blend better.
Finish sewing up the back of the leg. Pose the legs with the paws close together.
46
With your puppy in a sitting pose, place the back
Sew the inner thighs, working your way in a
legs on either side of the body so that they rest
straight line towards the last pin at the
on your work surface (paws down), with enough
underside of the legs (sew these sts by weaving
space to fit the tail between them. See page 48
your needle in and out between the leg and
for the correct position of the tail. Working
body).
toward the belly, pin up to the edge of the back patch and then onto the belly for a length of about 5SC.
Finish sewing around the underside and back of the legs. Pose the legs pointing forward as much as possible. Turn the body upside down and pin the back and underside of the legs up to R14 of the body.
Working towards the belly, sew the leg up to the last pin on the belly. You can sew both legs up to this point before proceeding.
47
Keeping the opening rounded, place the tail
Lay the tail patch on the tail so that from side to
between the legs at the back of the body so that
side it meets the edges of the back patch at the
it rests on your work surface, leaving 2 rounds
sewing seam of the tail.
open between the tail and the magic ring of the body. Pin and sew it in place, working into FLO. Add more stuffing as you go if needed but do not overstuff the tail; it should not bulge at the sewing seam.
Smooth it down and pin it along the tail, following the curve of the tail evenly and ending at R1 (covering only half of R1, not both sides/ the entire round). Sew it in place.
48
Stuff the nose then place it on the front of the muzzle so that the top of the nose is level with the top of the muzzle when viewed from the side.
Tuck the loose ends inside the ears and sew the open ends closed, working 1 stitch into every corresponding set of SC.
Pin all around the edge of the nose, preserving its shield shape as you go. The bottom point should fall on the magic ring of the muzzle. The nose should be wedge shaped from the side and the tip of the nose should be flattened when viewed from the top. Sew it in place.
On the puppy’s right side, counting from the magic ring of the snout, skip 28 rounds then pin the inner points of the right ear at A. With 8 sts Mould the muzzle into a square shape and
open between the ears, pin the inner point of
flatten it to be level with the nose.
the left ear at B.
49
Skip 3 rounds then pin the ears at C and D with 6 sts open between them. Allow the ears to curve between the pinned points.
Sew the ears in place, attaching them along the pinned line only. Tip: On the left ear, begin by pushing your needle into the head at the point where your sewing thread is, and bring From this point on, allow the ears to follow their
it out at the side where you want to start
natural curve over the head. The rounded
sewing the ear. Pose the ears so they stand up
bottom part of the ear should lay flat on the
straight.
back of the head.
Congratulations, your puppy is complete! On the side of the head, count 10 sts down from
Use #BuzzTheGermanShepherd to share
pin A and 4 rounds across, then pin the bottom
your project with fellow Projectarians on
of the ears at the 5th round across.
Facebook or Instagram.
50
Etsy.com/shop/PROJECTARIAN Projectarian.com Instagram.com/Projectarian/ Facebook.com/Projectarian/ Hookedonsunshine.co Ravelry.com/designers/Projectarian
51
Get Buzz’s sheep pattern for FREE at my website, Projectarian.com! (Full pattern support from Hooked on Sunshine will be available after testing).
These doggo designs are inspired by my own real-life puppy, Scallop, who you can meet on Instagram in my stories @Projectarian. Buzz has a rigid, versatile shape whose body can be used to make a variety of different breeds of dog. See page 7 for more options. Keep an eye out for even more doggy types in assorted poses, coming soon to Projectarian! I hope you enjoy this project as much as I have!
Share your projects by tagging them with #BuzzTheGermanShepherd on social media.
- Jessie 2
Written in US terminology Size: +/- 40 cm tall, sitting Difficulty: Intermediate
- Chunky (which is the equivalent to yarn weight 5, bulky, 14 ply or 8 wpi). Yarn conversion: Choose yarn with a label that calls for a 5 mm hook or that has a weight similar to 1.6 m/g (this might mean choosing an aran/worsted weight instead). - Double knit (which is the equivalent to yarn weight 3, light worsted, 8 ply or 11 wpi). Yarn conversion: Choose yarn with a label that calls for a 4 mm hook or that has a weight similar to 2.6 m/g.
- 4 ply (which is equivalent to yarn weight 2, fingering or 14 wpi). Yarn conversion: Choose yarn with a label that calls for a 3 mm hook or that has a weight similar to 3.8 m/g.
Instructions for the skills listed below can be found in the Amigurumi Tips booklet included with this pattern. • • • • • •
• •
Working in rows Working in the round (in a spiral) Accurately counting stitches and rows Using stitch markers and running stitch markers Basic sewing Invisible decrease Changing colours Crocheting into the sides of rows 3
CHUNKY Body Colour (main head, main body, main tail, legs): 280g/450m DOUBLE KNIT Accent Colour (snout, muzzle, eyelids, eye spots, ears, back patch, tail patch): 90g/235m 4 PLY Accent Colour, Dark (pupil, nose, toe separation stitches): 2g/6m Eye White (sclera, reflections): 1g/3m Eye Colour (irises): 1g/3m Flesh Colour (paw pads, toe pads, inner lining of ears): 15g/65m
ELLE VINTAGE, CHUNKY ACRYLIC Body Colour: Diner Dash ELLE PURE GOLD, DK ACRYLIC Accent Colour: Lavender
To make your puppy recognizable as a German Shepherd, use a medium shade as your Body Colour and a dark shade as your Accent Colour. For the eyes, use solid black (or dark grey) for the pupils and pure white for the sclera and reflections.
• • • • • • • • • • •
1.5 mm hook (eyes) 2 mm hook (eyelids, reflections) 2.5 mm hook (nose, eye spots, toe & paw pads) 3 mm hook (body, head, legs, ears, tail) 3.5 mm hook (inner lining of ears) 4 mm hook (muzzle, patches, snout) Scissors Yarn sewing needle Soft, springy stuffing – approx 275g Pins with a large head Stitch markers
See the gauge section on page 6 for more info on choosing hook sizes.
ELLE PURE GOLD, 4 PLY ACRYLIC Accent Colour, Dark: Titanium Eye White: Lily MIRAGE, 4 PLY ACRYLIC Eye Colour: Soft Green
There are pictures of the completed puppy throughout the Assembly section (pages 38-50).
ELLE BABY VINTAGE, 4 PLY ACRYLIC Flesh Colour: Blossom You may substitute the Body Colour and Flesh Colour with double knit weight yarn instead. In that case, use a 4 mm hook for all those pieces except the inner ears (3 mm hook), toe pads and paw pads (2.5 mm hook).
This toy has not been tested for safety. It may not be suitable for babies or young children.
Cotton yarn is not recommended for this project as it can be tough to sew.
4
R - row/round SS - slip stitch/surface stitch SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet DC - double crochet TRC - triple crochet KS - knit stitch Ch/ch-sp - chain/chain-space St/st-sp - stitch/stitch-space Incr - increase Decr - decrease * - section to be repeated […] - all stitches worked into the same space Rem - remaining Sk - skip FLO - front loop only BLO - back loop only WS - wrong side RS - right side YO - yarn over AC Dark - Accent Colour, Dark
TRC: YO twice, draw up a loop (4 loops on hook). *YO, draw through 2 loops* X 3. KS (knit stitch)***: See pages 19-20. SC-decr: Use an invisible decrease by default. SC-incr: Work 2 SC into the same space. DC-incr: Work 2 DC into the same space. KS-incr: Work 2 KS into the same space. ***Also known as the centre single crochet stitch or waistcoat stitch.
Chains and slip stitches do not count as stitches. Do not include these when counting your stitches and do not work into them unless specifically indicated.
Chains should not be worked very tightly. Keep your tension so that each chain is the same length as a SC stitch. This will ensure the correct starting chain height for every row that is started with a chain, and the correct tension for chains or chain spaces that will have stitches worked into them.
When directed to ‘join with a SS,’ simply draw up a loop of yarn at the indicated stitch. Do not chain or use a slipknot unless indicated. When directed to work over a loose end after joining new yarn, work over it for about 3 stitches. This will secure the thread sufficiently without causing a visible bump at the join.
When directed to tie off, cut the yarn to the desired length and then simply pull the loose end through the current loop on your hook. Do not chain 1 first, to avoid making a knot. On some parts you will be directed to chain and tie off, where a knot is required.
On body parts that start with a magic ring, weave in your starting thread to secure it after working the first few rounds.
When you finish sewing a piece, don’t tie a knot, but weave the loose end in and out of the body and its stitches in the area near where you finished sewing until the end is well secured. Then cut it close to the body so it pulls back inside. Be careful not to distort the body when weaving in ends. 5
To achieve the most uniform results, it is advisable to stick to one brand of yarn as far as possible. Yarn thickness may vary wildly between different brands labelled as the same weight. Thickness may even differ between various colours of the same brand of yarn, even when they’re labelled as the same weight. Use the gauge swatches below to adjust your tension and/or tools as needed.
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How to use gauge swatches: Use the suggested hook size with your yarn of choice and follow the gauge patterns below. If your swatch comes out bigger than desired, try smaller hooks until your swatch matches the gauge pattern. Use larger hooks to increase the size of your swatch.
• •
These gauges only apply to your project if you match their size precisely with your yarn. If you’re making your project in a different size to this pattern your gauge will not match and it may require extra trial and error to find the correct hook size for your yarn.
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SC GAUGE 3 mm hook, Chunky yarn: 5 cm X 5 cm block = 8SC X 9 rows. 4 mm hook, DK yarn: 5 cm X 5 cm block = 8SC X 10 rows. 3 mm hook, DK yarn: 5 cm X 5 cm block = 10SC X 10 rows. 2 mm hook, DK yarn: 3 cm X 3 cm block = 8SC X 8 rows. 3.5 mm hook, 4 ply yarn: 5 cm X 5 cm block = 10SC X 10 rows. 2.5 mm hook, 4 ply yarn: 3 cm X 3 cm block = 8SC X 8 rows. 1.5 mm hook, 4 ply yarn: 3 cm X 3 cm block = 9SC X 10 rows. KNIT STITCH GAUGE 4 mm hook, DK yarn: 5 cm X 5 cm block = 9KS X 10 rows.
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This pattern document is protected by universal copyright law. The design concept of the character in this pattern is protected by copyright; the idea may not be copied. This pattern is not available for free. You may not share this document or any part of it by any means whatsoever. Redistribution in any form is strictly prohibited. Reproduction by filming is prohibited. Language translations of this pattern are prohibited. You may not claim any part of this design as your own under any conditions. You may sell the finished items you have made from this pattern. Using Projectarian’s images for your own marketing purposes is prohibited. Selling yarn kits for this pattern is prohibited without express consent from the designer.
Remember, there is always a real person behind the art!
In the future, enter the coupon code during checkout to get 40% off all puppy patterns! Valid for all new puppies, as their patterns are released.
6
Made to the suggested gauge, Buzz will fit into a Rogz mediumsized** collar and H-harness!
**27 cm neck and 39 cm midriff.
Buzz has a versatile body shape that you can use to make a variety of different dogs! Here are some possible colour combinations for inspiration.
7
Make 4 Use a 3 mm hook
When you stuff the front paws (during nd
R1: Using Body Colour, ch4. Starting in 2 ch from hook, 2SC, SC-incr in last ch. Working down the opposite side of the ch, 2SC. (6) Continue working in the round and use a running stitch marker. Place a clip-on marker at the starting ch4 for clarity and easy counting of your rounds.
the next section of the pattern), keep in mind they should be firm enough to support
Buzz in his sitting pose.
R2: SC-incr X 6. (12) R3: *1SC, SC-incr* X 6. (18) R4: *2SC, SC-incr* X 6. (24) R5-10: 24SC. (24) R11: *SC-decr, 10SC* X 2. (22) R12: *SC-decr, 9SC* X 2. (20) R13-16: 20SC. (20) Do not tie off. 8
Make 2 Continued from R16 of the paws, using a 3 mm hook
R26: 25SC. (25) R27: 21SC, SC-incr, 3SC. (26) R28: 26SC. (26) R29: 22SC, SC-incr, 3SC. (27) R30: 27SC. Place a stitch marker on the 10th st. (27) Flatten the leg so that the stitch marker at R30 is in the centre. The part of the paw that you can see is the top (i.e. like looking at the back of your hand). The underside is the “palm” of the paw. Stuff the paw firmly up to R15, keeping the top and the underside slightly flattened instead of round like a sausage.
R17-20: 20SC. (20) R21: 1SC, SC-incr, 9SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (22) R22: 2SC, SC-incr, 10SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (24) R23: 7SC, SC-decr X 2, 9SC, SC-incr X 2, 2SC. (24) R24: 24SC. (24) R25: 20SC, SC-incr, 3SC. (25) 9
Once the paw is filled up to R15, flip the leg onto its side. From this point on, flatten the rest of the leg in the opposite direction to the paw, tapering it towards the shoulder as you continue stuffing. Push stuffing into the elbow when you reach it, to make it protrude.
Tie off, leaving a 70 cm thread for sewing. Leave the clip-on markers in place and remove the running stitch marker. Working into FLO, sew the opening closed like a drawstring.
R31: 22SC, SC-incr, 4SC. (28) R32: 28SC. (28) R33: 23SC, SC-incr, 4SC. (29) R34: 23SC, SC-decr, 4SC. (28) R35: 23SC, SC-decr, 3SC. (27) R36: 22SC, SC-decr, 3SC. (26) R37: 21SC, SC-decr, 3SC. (25) R38: 21SC, SC-decr, 2SC. (24) R39: *4SC, SC-decr* X 4. (20) R40: *3SC, SC-decr* X 4. (16) R41: *2SC, SC-decr* X 4. (12) R42: *1SC, SC-decr* X 4. (8) R43: SC-decr X 4. (4)
To help mould the leg into its final shape, squash the paw to flatten it, while squashing the rest of the leg in the opposite direction. Additionally, you can rub the shoulder between your palms to flatten it.
Left: Side view. Right: Front view.
10
Make 2 Continued from R16 of the paws, using a 3 mm hook
R23: 22SC, SC-incr, 4SC. (28) R24: 23SC, SC-incr, 4SC. (29) R25: 24SC, SC-incr, 4SC. (30) R26: 24SC, SC-incr, 5SC. (31) R27: 25SC, SC-incr, 5SC. (32) R28: 25SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (33) R29: 26SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (34) R30: 10SC, SC-incr X 2, 15SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (37) Place a stitch marker at the last increase on R30. R31: 11SC, SC-incr X 2, 17SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (40)
R17: 1SC, SC-incr, 9SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (22) R18: 2SC, SC-incr, 10SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (24) R19: 7SC, SC-decr X 2, 9SC, SC-incr X 2, 2SC. (24) R20: 20SC, SC-incr, 3SC. (25) R21: 21SC, SC-incr, 3SC. (26) R22: 22SC, SC-incr, 3SC. (27)
Flatten the leg so that the stitch marker at R30 is in the centre. Like the front leg, the part of the paw that you can see is the top. Stuff the paw up to R15, keeping the top and the underside slightly flattened instead of round like a sausage (same as front legs). 11
Once the paw is filled up to R15, flip the leg onto its side. Now you can see the hock. From this point on, flatten the rest of the leg in the opposite direction as you continue stuffing and crocheting until the end. Flatten the inner thigh more, so that it can lay flat against the body, and make the outer thigh rounded. Push stuffing into the hock to make it protrude.
R43: *7SC, SC-decr* X 5. (40) R44: *6SC, SC-decr* X 5. (35) R45: *5SC, SC-decr* X 5. (30) R46: *4SC, SC-decr* X 5. (25) R47: *3SC, SC-decr* X 5. (20) R48: *2SC, SC-decr* X 5. (15) R49: *1SC, SC-decr* X 5. (10) R50: SC-decr X 5. (5) Tie off, leaving a 70 cm thread for sewing. Leave the clip-on markers in place and remove the running stitch marker. Working into FLO, sew the opening closed like a drawstring. Left: Side view. Right: Front view.
The thigh should be stuffed very softly in order to flatten it sufficiently. See pages 46-47 for how the legs should fit on the body and adjust the stuffing as needed. The thigh should blend onto the body; it should not look like a chicken drumstick.
R32: 12SC, SC-incr X 2, 19SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (43) R33: 13SC, SC-incr X 2, 21SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (46) R34: 14SC, SC-incr X 2, 22SC, SC-incr, 7SC. (49) R35: 15SC, SC-incr X 2, 24SC, SC-incr, 7SC. (52) R36: 16SC, SC-incr X 2, 26SC, SC-incr, 7SC. (55) R37-40: 55SC. (55) R41: *9SC, SC-decr* X 5. (50) R42: *8SC, SC-decr* X 5. (45)
When you make
the second leg, shape it while you’re stuffing to be a mirror image of the first leg.
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PAW PADS Make 4 Use a 2.5 mm hook
R2: [1SS, 1HDC] in the next st. DC-incr, [1HDC, 1SS] in the next st. [1HDC, 1DC] in the next st. [1DC, 1HDC] in the next st. 1SS, [1HDC, 1DC] in the next st. [1DC, 1HDC] in the next st. (15, incl SS) R3: Note: The SS of this R are worked into the SS of the previous R. 1SS, 1SC, SC-incr X 2, 1SC, 1SS, [1SC, 1HDC] in the next st. [1DC, 1TRC] in the next st. [1TRC, 1DC] in the next st. [1HDC, 1SC] in the next st. 1SS, [1SC, 1HDC] in the next st. [1DC, 1TRC] in the next st. [1TRC, 1DC] in the next st. [1HDC, 1SC] in the next st. (25, incl SS) SS in the next st to taper off your round. Tie off, leaving a 45 cm thread for sewing. Remove the
R1: Using Flesh Colour, 8SC in magic ring. (8)
running stitch marker.
Continue working in the round and use a running stitch marker. 13
TOE PADS Make 18 (5 per front paw, 4 per back paw) Use a 2.5 mm hook
R1: Using Flesh Colour, 5SC in magic ring. (5) Continue working in the round. R2: SC-incr X 5. (10) SS in the next st to taper off your round. Tie off, leaving a 25 cm thread for sewing. The loose end from R1 can be bundled up under the toe as stuffing.
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Make 2 Use a 1.5 mm hook
R4: Work in BLO. Counting from the 1st SC of R3, skip the 1st 2 sts then join Eye Colour with a SS at the 3rd SC.
SS do not count as stitches. Do not work into them. R1: Using AC Dark, 5SC in magic ring. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (5) R2: Ch1, SC-incr X 5. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (10) R3: Ch1, *1SC, SC-incr* X 5. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (15) Do not tie off. Remove the loop from your hook and attach a stitch marker to keep it from unravelling.
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Starting in the next st and working the loose end in as you go, *1SC, SC-incr* X 4, 1SC, 1SS, leaving rem 2 sts unworked. (13)
Working into the 1st st of the Eye Colour row,
Tie off.
[1SC, 1DC] in the next st, ch1 (mark this ch if you
R5: Do not work the loose ends in as you go. Work in BLO. Return to R3 and place the AC Dark yarn back on your hook.
Ch1. Starting in the 1st st of R3, 2SC, SC-incr (in 3rd SC of R3).
SC-incr.
have trouble identifying your stitches), 1DC, 1HDC, SC-incr, 3SC, SC-incr, 1HDC, 1DC, ch1, [1DC, 1SC] in the next st.
SC-incr in the next Eye Colour st, then SC-incr in the next AC Dark st.
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2SC. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (29, incl 2 ch)
Starting in the next st, work one surface stitch into each of the next 10 sts (these are the same sts that R5 is worked into). (10)
Tie off. Insert your hook at the 2nd Eye Colour st on R4 and draw up a loop of Eye White, leaving a 10 cm tail.
Tie off. To tie off, simply pull the loop that is currently on your hook and cut it. Use your hook to pull the loose end through the next Eye Colour st to the back of the eye.
In this next step, control your tension so that the SS do not squeeze and deform the eye at all. To create the SS, simply insert your hook into the desired space and draw up a loop from the back of your workpiece to the front, through that same st-space.
Insert your hook from front to back at the 1st Eye Colour st on R4 and pull the starting thread of Eye White to the front of the eye, then use your hook to pull it through the next st to the back of the eye.
Insert your hook in the next space as directed and repeat, drawing up your yarn from the back of the eye through each stitch as you go. 17
EYELIDS Use a 2 mm hook Do not work the loose ends in as you go R1: Work in BLO. In the chain of the 1st ch-sp on R5, join Accent Colour with a SS (remove any markers used).
Ch1, starting in the same sp, 1SC, SC-incr, 9SC, SC-incr, 1SC, SC-incr, 14SC (do not work into the SS), SC-incr. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (33)
1SS in the BLO of the 1st SC on R1. Tie off, leaving a 40 cm thread for sewing. To keep all the loose ends secure, turn to the back of the eye and give each thread a firm tug, then weave them in.
EYE SPOTS Make 2 Use a 2.5 mm hook
R1: Using Accent Colour, 6SC in magic ring. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (6) R2: Ch1, SC-incr X 6. Do not join with a SS. (12) Tie off, leaving a 15 cm thread for sewing. R2: Do not ch1. Work in BLO. Turn, sk the SS. Starting in the last SC of R1, 3SS, 12SC, 4SS. (19, incl SS)
EYE REFLECTIONS Make 2 Use a 2 mm hook
R3: Do not ch1. Turn, working into the unused back loops of R2 and starting in the 1st available st, 4SS, 12SC, 3SS. (19, incl SS)
Using Eye White, 5SC in magic ring. Join with a SS in 1st SC. (5) Tie off, leaving a 10 cm thread for sewing.
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Knit Stitch (KS) Gauge
In order to work the knit stitch, it’s important
5 cm X 5 cm block = 9KS X 10 rows
that you are able to see and recognize the various loops that make up a SC stitch. The illustrations in this section show SC stitches worked with a large hook and thick yarn (8 mm and mega chunky) for clarity. Inspect your SC stitches and note the V shape of each stitch post. Turn your workpiece over (WS facing up) and note that the V shape of the stitch post is upside down on this side. Left: RS. Right: WS.
You may need to practise the knit stitch for a few rows before making your muzzle. Practise with thick yarn that doesn’t split easily and use an over-sized hook to get the hang of the KS. If you already know how to work the knit stitch, skip to page 21. 19
The knit stitch is worked in exactly the same
To finish off a row, the last stitch (or stitches, if
manner as a SC, but into the stitch posts instead
you’re working an increase) should be worked
of the stitch loops.
just like a regular SC into the last available stitch loops of the previous row (just like you would
The KS on the muzzle will always be worked -
into the upside-down V
-
on the WS of your previous row
-
directly below the 2 horizontal loops of
finish a regular row of SC).
the SC When working the KS, keep your tension loose. The KS is tighter than the SC so it will be difficult to get your hook through the correct spaces using the same tension as you have for the rest
To work a KS-increase, simply work 2KS into the same space.
of this project. On the muzzle, row 2 will be the foundation for your knit stitches. You will work knit stitches in row 3 and onwards. To start a practise swatch, ch10, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 1SC in each ch. (9) To begin a row of KS, ch1, turn. Do not work into the last st of your previous row but begin in the 2nd to last st post. Insert your hook through the upside-down V and push it all the way through the stitch post, so that it comes cleanly out the right-side-up V on the other side of the stitch, thus creating a KS through the exact centre of the stitch post.
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MUZZLE Use a 4 mm hook
R16: Repeat R15 but work into the stitch loops as you would crochet regular stitches. (24)
R1: At the end of this row, do not pull the magic ring tight or weave in the loose end yet. Work the stitches in this row tighter than your regular tension. Using Accent Colour, 4SC in magic ring. (4) R2: From this point onwards, work all stitches looser than your regular tension but keep the tension of your turning chain as normal. Ch1,
See the Amigurumi
turn. SC-incr X 4. (8)
Tips booklet on how to work into
Tip: Your first row of KS (R3) will probably be the most awkward to work but it should get easier from here. From this point on, if you struggle to get your hook through the correct space, your tension is too tight.
the sides of the rows.
EDGE AROUND THE MUZZLE R3: Ch1, turn. *1KS, KS-incr* X 4. (12) R4: Ch1, turn. *2KS, KS-incr* X 4. (16) R5: Ch1, turn. *3KS, KS-incr* X 4. (20) R6: Ch1, turn. *4KS, KS-incr* X 4. (24) R7-14: Ch1, turn. 24KS. (24)
R1: Ch1, starting in the last st of R16, work 2SC into the side of each of the 1st 2 rows. Tip: When working 2SC into the side of a row of DC, work 1SC into the stitch loops and 1SC around the post of the stitch to avoid making a large hole.
R15: Continue working into the stitch posts as you did with the KS, keeping the tension tight on longer stitches (i.e. DC/HDC stitches). Ch2, turn. 2DC, 1HDC, 5SC, 1HDC, 6DC, 1HDC, 5SC, 1HDC, 2DC. (24)
21
1SC in each of the next 14 rows.
Tie off, leaving a 45 cm thread for sewing.
SS into the magic ring at R1. 1SC in each of the next 14 rows. 2SC into the side of each of the last 2 rows. Pull the magic ring tightly closed and weave in the loose end.
Note: The 6 DC stitches in the middle of the muzzle are the bridge.
Total st count = 37 (incl SS at magic ring) Do not tie off.
R2: Do not ch1. Turn, starting in the last SC that you worked, 1SS in the next 36 sts, skipping the SS. (36)
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If your Body Colour and Accent Colour yarns are of equal thickness, ignore directions to change hook sizes during this section.
R3: *1SC, SC-incr* X 6. (18) R4: *2SC, SC-incr* X 6. (24) R5: *SC-incr, 11SC* X 2. (26) R6: 26SC. (26) R7: 1SC, SC-incr, 12SC, SC-incr, 11SC. (28) R8-12: 28SC. (28) R13: 2SC, SC-incr, 13SC, SC-incr, 11SC. (30) R14: 30SC, change to Body Colour and a 3 mm hook on the last SC. Cut Accent Colour and work the loose ends in as you go. (30) R15: *2SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (34)
Use a 4 mm & 3 mm hook
R16: *3SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (38)
R1: Using Accent Colour and a 4 mm hook, 6SC in magic ring. (6)
R18: *5SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (46)
R17: *4SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (42) R19: *6SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (50) R20: *7SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (54)
Continue working in the round and use a running stitch marker. R2: SC-incr X 6. (12)
R21: *8SC, SC-incr* X 4, 18SC. (58) R22-35: 58SC. (58) R36: *8SC, SC-decr* X 4, 18SC. (54) R37: *7SC, SC-decr* X 6. (48)
23
R38: *6SC, SC-decr* X 6. (42) Stuff the snout, making it blunt, flat and firm. Continue stuffing the head firmly but don’t overstuff it. Make sure that the muzzle still fits over the snout, covering the whole of R1, up to and including R16.
Place the muzzle and eyes on the head (do not sew them) to check if the stuffing needs adjustments. See the Assembly section on pages 39-40 for the correct positions.
R39: *5SC, SC-decr* X 6. (36) R40: *4SC, SC-decr* X 6. (30) R41: *3SC, SC-decr* X 6. (24) R42: *2SC, SC-decr* X 6. (18) R43: *1SC, SC-decr* X 6. (12) R44: SC-decr X 6. (6) Tie off and remove the running stitch marker. Working into FLO, sew the opening closed like a drawstring and weave in the loose end.
The 4 increases of R15 should be centred across the top of the snout (marked in the images above with yellow pins). Keep the bottom of the head flat as you stuff it. Fill the forehead sufficiently to create a flat area for the eyes to fit on. The eyes should be able to fit in a forward-facing position above the snout with the bridge of the muzzle between them.
24
Make 2 in Flesh Colour using a 3.5 mm hook Make 2 in Accent Colour using a 3 mm hook Use regular decreases, not invisible decreases R1: 3SC in magic ring (mark the magic ring if you have trouble identifying your stitches). (3)
R15: Ch1, turn. 17SC. (17) R16: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 12SC, 1SS. Leave rem 3 sts unworked. (14) R17: Do not ch1. Turn, skip the SS. 1SS in 1st SC, 13SC. (13) Left: R16. Right: R17.
R2: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 1SC, SC-incr. (5) R3: Ch1, turn. 5SC. (5) R4: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 3SC, SC-incr. (7) R5: Ch1, turn. 7SC. (7) R6: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 5SC, SC-incr. (9) R7: Ch1, turn. 9SC. (9) R8: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 7SC, SC-incr. (11) R9: Ch1, turn. 11SC. (11) R10: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 9SC, SC-incr. (13) R11: Ch1, turn. 13SC. (13) R12: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 11SC, SC-incr. (15) R13: Ch1, turn. 15SC. (15) R14: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 13SC, SC-incr. (17)
R18: Ch1, turn. 12SC, 1SS. (12) R19: Do not ch1. Turn, skip the SS. 1SS in 1st SC, 11SC. (11) R20: Ch1, turn. 10SC, 1SS. (10) R21: Do not ch1. Turn, skip the SS. 1SS in 1st SC, 7SC, SC-decr. (8) 25
R22: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 5SC, 1SS. (6) R23: Do not ch1. Turn, skip the SS. 1SS in 1st SC, 5SC. (5)
1SC in each of the next 2 sts. [SC, ch1, SC] in the next st.
EDGE AROUND THE EAR R1: Ch1, turn. 4SC, SC-incr.
1SC in each of the next 13 rows.
On the edge of inner ear 2 and outer ear 2, place a stitch marker on the 5th SC. SC-incr in R1 (do not work into the magic ring and remove the stitch marker from the magic 1SC into the sides of the next 7 rows.
ring if you’ve used one).
26
Working down the other side of the ear and working the loose end in as you go, SC-incr in R1.
1SC in each of the next 21 rows.
Inner ear 1: Ch1, tie off. Turn over. Inner ear 2: Ch1, tie off. Outer ear 1: Do not tie off. Turn over. Outer ear 2: Ch1, tie off.
JOINING INNER AND OUTER EAR 1 This is the right ear Use a 3 mm hook Place inner ear 1 on top of outer ear 1 so that the stitches line up. Continue working with Accent Colour and ch1.
Skip the next row and join with a SS in 1st SC of the ear’s edge.
Insert your hook in the WS of the last SC on the inner ear. Push your hook through the WS of the last SC on the outer ear as well. Both ear pieces are now on your hook. Work 1SC to join the pieces. Total st count = 56, incl ch. R2: Do not ch1. Turn, skip the SS. 22SC, SC-incr X 2, 14SC, SC-incr. (42) 27
Continue working through both ear pieces. 16SC, SC-incr X 2, 23SC, 4SC, 1SS. (48)
Join Accent Colour with a SS, do not ch1. Continue working through both ear pieces and work the loose end in as you go. Starting in the next st, 4SC, 23SC, SC-incr X 2, 17SC. (48)
Tie off, leaving a 1 m thread for sewing. JOINING INNER AND OUTER EAR 2
Tie off, leaving a 1 m thread for sewing.
This is the left ear Use a 3 mm hook Place inner ear 2 on top of outer ear 2 so that the stitches line up. On the edge of the inner ear, insert your hook in the WS of the 5th SC (the marked st). Push your hook through the WS of the 5th SC on the outer ear as well. Both pieces are now on your hook. Remove the stitch markers as you go.
28
Use a 3 mm hook R1: Using Body Colour, 8SC in magic ring. (8) Continue working in the round and use a running stitch marker. R2: 1SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (9) R3: 2SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (10) R4: 3SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (11) R5: 4SC, SC-incr, 2SC, 4HDC. (12) R6: 2HDC, 3SC, SC-incr, 2SC, 4HDC. (13) R7: 3HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 2SC, 3HDC. (14) R8: 3HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 3SC, 3HDC. (15) R9: 4HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 3SC, 3HDC. (16) R10: 4HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (17) R11: 5HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (18) R12: 6HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (19) R13: 7HDC, 4SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (20) R14: 7HDC, 5SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (21) R15: 8HDC, 5SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (22)
R16: 9HDC, 5SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (23) R17: 10HDC, 5SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (24) R18: 11HDC, 5SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 3HDC. (25) R19: 12HDC, 6SC, SC-incr, 4SC, 2HDC. (26) R20: 13HDC, 12SC, 1HDC. (26) R21: 14HDC, 12SC. (26) R22: 1SC, 14HDC, 11SC. (26) R23: 2SC, 13HDC, 11SC. (26) R24: 3SC, 12HDC, 11SC. (26) R25: 4SC, 11HDC, 11SC. (26) R26: 5SC, 10HDC, 11SC. (26) SS in the next 2 sts to taper off your round. Tie off, leaving a 40 cm thread for sewing. Stuff the tail, allowing it to curve. Remove the running stitch marker.
29
Use a 4 mm hook R1: Using Accent Colour, 4SC in magic ring
R18: Ch1, turn. 12SC. (12) R19: Ch1, turn. 11SC, SC-incr. (13) R20-25: Ch1, turn. 13SC. (13)
(mark the magic ring if you have trouble identifying your stitches). (4) R2: Ch1, turn. 4SC. (4) R3: Ch1, turn. 3SC, SC-incr. (5) R4: Ch1, turn. 5SC. (5) R5: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 4SC. (6) R6: Ch1, turn. 6SC. (6) R7: Ch1, turn. 5SC, SC-incr. (7) R8: Ch1, turn. 7SC. (7) R9: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 6SC. (8) R10: Ch1, turn. 8SC. (8) R11: Ch1, turn. 7SC, SC-incr. (9) R12: Ch1, turn. 9SC. (9) R13: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 8SC. (10) R14: Ch1, turn. 10SC. (10) R15: Ch1, turn. 9SC, SC-incr. (11) R16: Ch1, turn. 11SC. (11) R17: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 10SC. (12)
Do not tie off. EDGE AROUND THE TAIL PATCH Ch1, starting in R25 and working into the sides of the rows, work 1SC into each row for the next 24 rows. SC-incr in R1 (do not work into the magic ring and remove the stitch marker if you’ve used one).
30
Working down the other side of the tail patch and working the loose end in as you go, SC-incr in R1. 1SC in each of the next 24 rows. Ch1, SS in the same st. (52)
Tie off, leaving a 90 cm thread for sewing.
31
Use a 3 mm hook R1: Using Body Colour, 8SC in magic ring. (8) Continue working in the round and use a running stitch marker. R2: *1SC, SC-incr* X 4. (12) R3: *2SC, SC-incr* X 4. (16) R4: *3SC, SC-incr* X 4. (20) R5: *4SC, SC-incr* X 4. (24) R6: *5SC, SC-incr* X 4. (28) R7: *6SC, SC-incr* X 4. (32) R8: *7SC, SC-incr* X 4. (36) R9: *8SC, SC-incr* X 4. (40) R10: *9SC, SC-incr* X 4. (44) R11: *10SC, SC-incr* X 4. (48) R12: 20SC, SC-incr, 27SC. (49) R13: 21SC, SC-incr, 27SC. (50) R14: 22SC, SC-incr, 27SC. (51) R15: 23SC, SC-incr, 27SC. (52)
R16: 23SC, SC-incr, 28SC. (53) R17: 24SC, SC-incr, 28SC. (54) R18: 25SC, SC-incr, 28SC. (55) R19: 26SC, SC-incr, 28SC. (56) R20: 26SC, SC-incr, 29SC. (57) R21: 27SC, SC-incr, 29SC. (58) R22: 28SC, SC-incr, 29SC. (59) R23: 29SC, SC-incr, 29SC. (60) R24-32: 60SC. (60) R33: *18SC, SC-decr* X 3. (57) R34: 57SC. (57) R35: *17SC, SC-decr* X 3. (54) R36: 54SC. (54) R37: *16SC, SC-decr* X 3. (51) R38: 51SC. (51) R39: *15SC, SC-decr* X 3. (48) R40: 48SC. (48) R41: *14SC, SC-decr* X 3. (45) R42: 45SC. (45) R43: 5SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 17SC. (45) R44: 6SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 16SC. (45) 32
R45: 7SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 15SC. (45) R46-47: 8SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 14SC. (45) R48: 9SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 13SC. (45) R49: 10SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 12SC. (45) R50-51: 11SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 11SC. (45) R52: 12SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 10SC. (45) R53-54: 13SC, SC-incr, 20SC, SC-decr, 9SC. (45) Tie off, leaving a 1 m thread for sewing. Remove the running stitch marker and stuff the body. Top view (dog’s spine).
Side view.
33
Use a 4 mm hook Use regular decreases, not invisible decreases R1: Using Accent Colour, ch7. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6SC. (6) R2: Ch1, turn. SC-incr X 6. (12) R3: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 10SC, SC-incr. (14) R4: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 12SC, SC-incr. (16) R5: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 14SC, SC-incr. (18) R6: Ch1, turn. 18SC. (18) R7: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 16SC, SC-incr. (20) R8-9: Ch1, turn. 20SC. (20) R10: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 18SC, SC-incr. (22) R11-12: Ch1, turn. 22SC. (22) R13: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 20SC, SC-incr. (24) R14-15: Ch1, turn. 24SC. (24) R16: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 22SC, SC-incr. (26) R17-18: Ch1, turn. 26SC. (26) R19: Ch1, turn. SC-incr, 24SC, SC-incr. (28) R20-27: Ch1, turn. 28SC. (28)
R28: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 24SC, SC-decr. (26) R29: Ch1, turn. 26SC. (26) R30: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 22SC, SC-decr. (24) R31: Ch1, turn. 24SC. (24) R32: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 20SC, SC-decr. (22) R33: Ch1, turn. 22SC. (22) R34: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 18SC, SC-decr. (20) R35: Ch1, turn. 20SC. (20) R36: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 16SC, SC-decr. (18) R37: Ch1, turn. 18SC. (18) R38: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 14SC, SC-decr. (16) R39: Ch1, turn. 16SC. (16) R40: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 12SC, SC-decr. (14) R41: Ch1, turn. 14SC. (14) R42: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 10SC, SC-decr. (12) R43: Ch1, turn. 12SC. (12) R44: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 8SC, SC-decr. (10) R45: Ch1, turn. 10SC. (10) R46: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 6SC, SC-decr. (8) R47: Ch1, turn. 8SC. (8) R48: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 4SC, SC-decr. (6) 34
R49: Ch1, turn. 6SC. (6) R50: Ch1, turn. SC-decr, 2SC, SC-decr. (4) R51: Ch1, turn. 4SC. (4) R52: Ch1, turn. SC-decr X 2. (2) R53: Ch1, turn. 2SC. (2) R54: Ch1, turn. SC-decr. (1) R55: Ch1, turn. 1SC. (1) Do not tie off.
Lay the back patch on the body to check if the stuffing needs adjustments. See the Assembly section on page 44 for the correct position.
EDGE AROUND THE BACK PATCH Ch1, working into the sides of the rows, work 1SC into each row for the next 54 rows. Working the loose end in as you go, 1SC in each of the 6 ch. 1SC in each of the next 54 rows. 3SC in the last row. Join with a SS in the 1st SC. (117)
Tie off, leaving a 2.2 m thread for sewing.
35
Use a 2.5 mm hook and work the stitches tightly
Do not tie off. At this stage, the nose should measure 2 cm across.
R1: Using AC Dark, 1SC in magic ring. (1) R2: Ch1, turn. 3SC, all into the same st. (3) R3: Ch2, turn. [HDC, SC] in the 1st st. SC-incr in the next st. [SC, HDC] in the last st. (6) R4: Ch2, turn. HDC, 4SC, HDC. (6)
EDGE AROUND THE NOSE Ch1, working into the sides of the rows, 2SC in each of the 1st 2 rows. 1SC in each of the next 2 rows.
36
Ch1, then working up the other side of the nose, 1SC in each of the next 2 rows. 2SC in each of the remaining 2 rows.
This time, work into the ch and the SS as you go. Starting in the next SC (do not work the loose end in), 12SC, 1SS. (12) The nose pictured below has been squashed flat for illustrative purposes.
Ch1, 1SC in each st across R4 (6 sts). Join with a SS in 1st SC. (18) Note the shield shape of the nose and preserve this shape as you continue.
Tie off, leaving a 40 cm thread for sewing. Weave in the loose ends. To shape the nose correctly, bend it crisply along the last row of stitches that you worked, to create square sides. The nose should still be shield shaped from the front, but wedge shaped from the side.
Tie off. Counting backwards from the last SC (do not count the SS or ch), skip 8 SC and join new yarn with a SS at the 9th st. Do not ch1.
37
See the Amigurumi Tips booklet for sewing techniques.
As you assemble Buzz, double check each new attachment from all angles for straightness and symmetry before sewing. Since your puppy’s parts are worked in the round, they are made out of spirals. When you attach sets of features (eyes, ears,
It is advisable to pin your whole pup together and get an idea of the pieces’ positions as well as the character you’d like to create, then unpin everything and assemble your puppy piece by piece.
legs) onto him, they might not fall on the exact same round in order to be symmetrical. Inspect your placements from all sides while pinning and adjust them as needed for symmetry.
38
Check that the muzzle is centred with the increases of R15 on the head. A: Pin the inward curves, covering the last Accent Colour round of the snout (R14). B: Pin the outer corners of the muzzle, pulling them upwards into a curvy smile.
Pin the magic ring of the muzzle to the magic ring of the snout. The top lips should be well rounded so tug them into shape if needed.
C and D mark the 1st and last DC at the bridge of the muzzle. Smooth the bridge of the muzzle up towards the forehead and pin it along R17 so that the DC stitches span from the 2nd to the 3rd increases on the head. Keep the corners sharp on either side. Pin the entire row in place, preserving the curves and corners as you go.
Smooth the muzzle down to cover the snout without stretching it. The last row of the muzzle should fall at R17 of the head, but it’s more important that the muzzle lays flat and covers the snout than at which round it falls.
Sew the muzzle, attaching only the pinned section to the head.
39
Place a small amount of stuffing behind the top eyelids to help the eyes point forward if Optional: Attach the nose first (page 49).
needed.
Pin the inner corners of the eyes on either side
There should be 6 sts open between the eyes
of the muzzle so that they face forward. Check that the forehead is not slanted like a car’s windscreen, but flattened so that the eyes can point directly forward instead of upwards.
across the forehead (just above the bridge of the muzzle). Finish pinning all around the eyes then sew them in place. When you sew the top of the eye, work into the stitch loops on the last row only.
Keeping the pins in place, check the head from the side and swivel the eyes until they are looking straight ahead. The outer corners of the eyes will likely be positioned about 1SC higher than the inner corners. Checking the head from the front, the eyes should not be slanted. Adjust them as needed.
40
Place the eye spots 4 rounds above the muzzle with 4-5 sts open between them at the narrowest part. Pin and sew them in place.
The increase on the last round of the neck marks the centre. Line up the body with the Left eye: Place the reflection at the top right
head so that they are centred.
edge of the pupil, not overlapping the dark outline of the eye (R5 worked with AC Dark). Right eye: Place the reflection at the top left edge of the pupil, to create a mirror image of the left eye. Pin and sew them in place.
Counting downwards from the closing round of the head, leave 6 rounds then pin the back of the neck to the head. Counting downwards from the magic ring at the snout, leave 19 rounds open then pin the front of the neck to the head.
Pin the rest of the free edge to the head, then sew it in place, adding more stuffing as you go if needed. Do not overstuff the neck. It should be firm enough to support the head, but it should not bulge at the sewing seam.
41
Fill the paw pad with stuffing, then with the loose end on the right-hand side, pin it in place directly below the 2 toes so that it’s nestled right up to them, preserving the 3-leaf clover shape.
Assembly of the paws is illustrated on Rocket the Beagle’s legs.
Place 2 more toe pads on either side of the first 2, so that they are nestled up to both the toe pads and the paw pad, then pin them.
The paws should be placed on the opposite side to the stitch markers on R30, as illustrated below. Left: Front leg. Right: Back leg.
Mould each toe pad into a bowl shape and stuff it with the loose end from the magic ring or use a tiny bit of stuffing. Leave R1 of the paw open then place 2 toe pads right next to each other (with no space between them) on the bottom of the paw and pin them.
Make sure there is no open space between the 5 pieces then sew them in place onto the paw.
On the front legs, leave 3 rounds open behind the paw pad then pin and sew the fifth toe pad on each paw.
42
Thread your needle with 40 cm of AC Dark. Push your needle in between the 2 middle toes of a paw, at the very edge of the paw pad. Bring it out at the top centre of the paw (at the middle marker) between R6 and 7, leaving a 10 cm thread under the paw.
In the following instructions, the position of the stitches to be sewn into the top of the paw are a guide only. Depending on the exact placement of your paw pads, you might sew your toes in slightly different positions. The goal is to split your paw evenly into 4 toes by sewing 3 long, straight stitches. The centre stitch should be shorter than the 2 stitches on either side. Keep your stitches tight as you go.
Bring your yarn over the front of the paw and sew back into the starting point, but this time push your needle out between the 2 left toes as illustrated. Holding the loose end so it doesn’t get pulled through, pull your stitch tight to form the first toes.
Remove any remaining markers. Mark the top centre of the paw at R6. Add 2 more markers on R7 with 3 sts open across the centre of the paw between the 2 markers. Remove the markers as you sew into the marked spaces.
Bring your yarn over the front of the paw again, sew into the marked space as illustrated, between R7 and 8 (left marker), pushing your needle out between the remaining 2 toes (your needle will go through the paw at an angle). Pull tight to form another toe.
43
Bring your yarn over the front of the paw again, sew into the marked space as illustrated, between R7 and 8 (right marker), pushing your needle out at the starting point once again. IMPORTANT: The loose end must come out of the exact same stitch hole as the starting thread. Pull tight to form the last toe.
Making sure all toe stitches and loose ends are pulled tight, tie the ends together in a secure knot, then release the ends so that the knot is pulled back inside the paw. Weave the loose ends into the paw. Sew the toes in the same manner on all 4 paws.
Count 6 rounds upwards from the closing round of the head then pin the point of the back patch to the centreline of the head. Smooth the patch down over the body without stretching it. There should be 8 rounds open between the magic ring of the body and the backmost edge of the back patch. Pin all around the patch and sew it in place.
The front paws should rest on the ground when the puppy is in a sitting pose. To achieve this, curve the ankles, making the front legs bend at the back of the paw pads, as illustrated. Bent leg vs unbent leg.
44
Swivel the leg so that the edge of the shoulder is level with the body rounds as illustrated. Pin along the top of the shoulder, following that round of the body. As the shoulder curves down, pin it to the body for another 6 rounds.
Squash the shoulders down firmly onto the body with your palm as you pin them. Flatten them enough to make a crisp edge, then pin that edge. See the Amigurumi Tips booklet for more pinning tips.
On the side of the body, leave 5 rounds open from the top of the neck, then place a front leg so that it’s centred on the side of the body and insert one pin at the closing round.
Pin down the back of the shoulder up to the elbow, preserving its point. Continue pinning down the back of the leg, up to the edge of the patch.
With both legs pinned, your puppy should be able to sit with paw pads resting on your work surface. Adjust the leg position if needed to achieve a sturdy, balanced pose.
45
When sewing the legs, use lots of small, tight stitches, working one whipstitch into every available round of the leg and the body. Sew down the front of the leg from the top of the shoulder to the last pin, 6 rounds down. Then sew along a diagonal, working your way in a straight line towards the last pin at the edge of the back patch (sew these sts by weaving your needle in and out between the leg and body).
As with the front legs, squash the thighs down firmly to create a crisp edge for pinning in place.
Flattening the inner thighs as much as possible (described on page 12) will make attachment easier and help the pieces blend better.
Finish sewing up the back of the leg. Pose the legs with the paws close together.
46
With your puppy in a sitting pose, place the back
Sew the inner thighs, working your way in a
legs on either side of the body so that they rest
straight line towards the last pin at the
on your work surface (paws down), with enough
underside of the legs (sew these sts by weaving
space to fit the tail between them. See page 48
your needle in and out between the leg and
for the correct position of the tail. Working
body).
toward the belly, pin up to the edge of the back patch and then onto the belly for a length of about 5SC.
Finish sewing around the underside and back of the legs. Pose the legs pointing forward as much as possible. Turn the body upside down and pin the back and underside of the legs up to R14 of the body.
Working towards the belly, sew the leg up to the last pin on the belly. You can sew both legs up to this point before proceeding.
47
Keeping the opening rounded, place the tail
Lay the tail patch on the tail so that from side to
between the legs at the back of the body so that
side it meets the edges of the back patch at the
it rests on your work surface, leaving 2 rounds
sewing seam of the tail.
open between the tail and the magic ring of the body. Pin and sew it in place, working into FLO. Add more stuffing as you go if needed but do not overstuff the tail; it should not bulge at the sewing seam.
Smooth it down and pin it along the tail, following the curve of the tail evenly and ending at R1 (covering only half of R1, not both sides/ the entire round). Sew it in place.
48
Stuff the nose then place it on the front of the muzzle so that the top of the nose is level with the top of the muzzle when viewed from the side.
Tuck the loose ends inside the ears and sew the open ends closed, working 1 stitch into every corresponding set of SC.
Pin all around the edge of the nose, preserving its shield shape as you go. The bottom point should fall on the magic ring of the muzzle. The nose should be wedge shaped from the side and the tip of the nose should be flattened when viewed from the top. Sew it in place.
On the puppy’s right side, counting from the magic ring of the snout, skip 28 rounds then pin the inner points of the right ear at A. With 8 sts Mould the muzzle into a square shape and
open between the ears, pin the inner point of
flatten it to be level with the nose.
the left ear at B.
49
Skip 3 rounds then pin the ears at C and D with 6 sts open between them. Allow the ears to curve between the pinned points.
Sew the ears in place, attaching them along the pinned line only. Tip: On the left ear, begin by pushing your needle into the head at the point where your sewing thread is, and bring From this point on, allow the ears to follow their
it out at the side where you want to start
natural curve over the head. The rounded
sewing the ear. Pose the ears so they stand up
bottom part of the ear should lay flat on the
straight.
back of the head.
Congratulations, your puppy is complete! On the side of the head, count 10 sts down from
Use #BuzzTheGermanShepherd to share
pin A and 4 rounds across, then pin the bottom
your project with fellow Projectarians on
of the ears at the 5th round across.
Facebook or Instagram.
50
Etsy.com/shop/PROJECTARIAN Projectarian.com Instagram.com/Projectarian/ Facebook.com/Projectarian/ Hookedonsunshine.co Ravelry.com/designers/Projectarian
51
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