Horses of Day and Night - Skinfaxi and Hrímfaxi

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CROCHET PATTERN

Horses of Day and Night - Skinfaxi and Hrímfaxi

Designer: Alexandra Simba Online store: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/CrochetPatternGuru Any questions please ask via private message in the Etsy shop.

Difficulty level - Experienced. The toy is approx. 15*14 cm (without the tail). Pay attention that your toy can be smaller or bigger depending on the materials you use and your manner to crochet. This pattern is copyright. You are NOT allowed to send the pattern in whole or any part of it to anybody as well as post it on blogs, online diaries, social networking sites or any other websites. You can exchange, sell, and put on charity auctions toys made using this pattern. When showing and/or selling toys made using this pattern online you have to provide the working link to my online store followed by the phrase: “This toy is made using Alexandra Simba’s (Александра Simba) pattern https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/CrochetPatternGuru». Thank you for understanding.

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Preface

In Norse mythology, Skinfaxi and Hrímfaxi are the horses of Dagr (day) and Nótt (night). The names Skinfaxi and Hrímfaxi mean a “glowing mane” and a “rimed mane”. Skinfaxi pulls Dagr's chariot across the sky every day and his mane lights up the sky and earth below. Hrímfaxi brings night to the Earth and in the morning, the foam from his bit turns becomes dew. At night, Hrímfaxi is stronger than Skinfaxi. While at daytime Hrímfaxi’s forces vanish and he becomes weaker than Skinfaxi.

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YOU WILL NEED

These materials are necessary: - Any smooth yarn, preferably not very stretchy, but not too thick as well. It is better to choose wool/mohair yarn with nylon. I used YarnArt Angora RAM (40% mohair, 60% acrylic; 500 m/100 g). I used about 133 g. To make a flame-colored horse: color No 520 (dried apricot). To make a black horse: color No 585 (black). - 1.5 mm cooper wire - approx. 2 m. You can buy this wire in a craft s hop, but I suggest buying it in an electronic goods store. There you can buy a 3*1.5 cord. Before buying the cord, make sure that the wire inside it is whole and does not consist of several thin wires. With a paper knife, remove the insulation. Make sure you are buying the right diameter of the wire. - Stuffing polyester. - White fabric plaster or insulation tape. - Toy eyes or beads or semi beads to make eyes. You will need 2 items. The size of the beads is 8-10 mm (or bigger or smaller depending on your toy.) I used Czech glass cabochons: For the flame-colored horse For the black horse oval cabochon 10x8 mm pomegranate round cabochon 7 mm, iron glass

- sewing thread to sew on the mane, eyelids and legs. - Strong thread to do sculpting. I use Vita Pelican yarn - I like thus yarn because it is strong enough, doesn’t damage the fabric. Some crocheters like using dental floss or thick nylon thread. Optional materials: - Transparent glue (if you want to glue the eyes on instead of sewing them on). - If you want to make a unicorn, you will need thin yarn / plastic clay / beads Toho No 15 of two colors. - Dry pastel paints of the following colors: for the flame-colored horse: dark-brown to tint the body and white to tint the cheeks. for the black horse: white. You can also add a bit of silver tint. - black ballpoint pen to tint the eyes of the flame-colored horse. To make the mane you can use for the flame-colored horse: Czech round beads No 10 or No 11 or Japanese rounds beads No 11 of the following colors: yellow, orange, red and the color of petrol. To make the mane of the black horse you can use felting wool - tops or lamb wool. You can also make the mane of yarn - I like the mane made of Alize Diva yarn. TOOLS: - needles: to do sculpting, to attach legs, bead mane and eyelids. Bead needle No 15. - 1.25 mm crochet hook. Attention: choose the size of the hook according to the yarn you use or your manner to crochet. - wire cutter - scissors - hard synthetic paint brush to tint the toy

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ABBREVIATIONS: ch – chain dec – 2 incether Attention! In order to get thick even fabric without holes make decreases as it is shown in pictures below (and do not just skip on stitch!). If it is not states the other, if it is not stated otherwise.

shift st - shift stitch – an additional sc in next st and only after that change the remove stitch FO – fasten off, weave in the end ss – slip stitch dc – double crochet sc – single crochet

incr – increase: 2 sc in one st Attention! In order to avoid injuries, it is necessary to wrap the wire ends with plaster and bend the wire into a ring. Be careful when working with wire. Attention! The toy is made with RS facing you.

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Front legs

Stuff with the polyester tightly. Stuff the legs only after you have inserted the wire. If you want, you can make Rnds 1-6 with yarn of a different color to make a hoof and then continue with main color. Straight leg (you can make this leg right or left - the difference is only in the hole for the wire in Rnd 44. Pay attention that the straight front leg should have a corresponding back leg looking backwards.) 1) Ch 4 (in the picture there are 3 ch as 1 ch is for turning). 2 sc into 2nd ch from the hook, sc, 3 sc in last ch, turn the work and continue along the opposite side of the beginning ch: 2 sc (8)

2) (2 dec) * 2, sc, (2 dec) * 3, sc, 2 dec (14) 3) sc in each st along (14) 4) 14 sc blo in each st around (14) Outline the sole on a piece of plastic and cut it out. Insert the plastic sole inside the hoof.

5) 6 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 2 dec (14) 6) sc in each st around (14) If you started with different color, change to the main color yarn. 7) 4 sc, (3 inc tog) * 2, 3 sc, 3 tr(12) 8) 4 sc, 3 sc tog, 3 sc, (3 tr in pro) * 2 (14) 9) sc in each st around (14) Make a wooden plank. Cut out 30 cm of wire (the length depends on the yarn you use). Make a small circle at one end - the circle should fit into the hoof. Then press the circle a bit to make an oval. Wrap the both ends of the wire with fabric plaster to avoid injuries. Bend the circle to an angle a bit more than 90° and insert into the hoof. Continue working around the wire.

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10) 10 sc, 3 sc tog, sc (12) 11-13) sc in each st around (12) 14) 10 sc, 2 inc (11) 15-19) sc in each st around (11) Add stuffing to the center of the back of the leg if necessary. Track the remove stitch . 20) 4 sc, (2 dec) * 2, 4 sc, 3 tr(15) 21-22) sc in each st around (15) 23-24) sc in each ch around (12) 25) 11 sc, 2 dec (13) 26) 6 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc (14) 27) sc in each st around (14) 28) 13 sc, 2 dec (15) 29) 7 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc (16) 30) 15 sc, 2 dec (17) 31) 8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (18) 32) (8 sc, 2 dec) * 2 (20) 33) 9 sc, 2 dec, 10 sc (21) 34) 20 sc, 2 dec (22) 35-37) sc in each st around (22). Do not forget to align the remove stitch after Rnd 37. 38 - right leg) 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, take the wire out through the hole, 3 sc, 2 sc tog, 9 sc, 2 sc tog (20) 38 - left leg) 9 sc, 2 sc tog, 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts take the wire out through the hole, sc in next st, 3sc, , 2 sc tog (20)

39) (8 sc, 2 inc) * 2 (18) 40) 2 inc, 5 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 5 sc, 2 inc (14) Thread the end into a tapestry needle, bring it through the sts and pull up to add water. Fasten off. You can see how to add water in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfJF-BMAF90

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Bent leg (you can make this leg right or left - the difference is only in the hole for the wire in Rnd 44. Pay attention that the bent front leg should have a corresponding back leg looking forwards.) 1) ch 4 2 sc into 2nd ch from the hook, sc, 3 sc in last ch, turn the work and continue along the opposite side of the beginning ch: 2 sc (8)

2) (2 dec) * 2, sc, (2 dec) * 3, sc, 2 dec (14) 3) sc in each st along (14) 4) 14 sc blo in each st around (14) Outline the sole on a piece of plastic and cut it out. Insert the plastic sole inside the hoof. 5) 6 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 2 dec (14) 6) sc in each st around (14) If you started with different color, change to the main color yarn. 7) 4 sc, (3 inc tog) * 2, 3 sc, 3 tr(12) 8) 4 sc, 3 sc tog, 3 sc, (3 tr in pro) * 2 (14) 9) sc in each st around (14) Insert a wooden plank. I used a 30-cm wire. 10) 10 sc, 3 sc tog, sc (12) 11-13) sc in each st around (12) 14) 10 sc, 2 inc (11) 15-19) sc in each st around (11) Add stuffing to the center of the back of the leg if necessary. Track the remove stitch . 20) 4 sc, (2 dec) * 2, 4 sc, 3 tr(15) 21-22) sc in each st around (15) 22) 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 3 sc tog (12) 23-24) sc in each ch around (12) 25) 11 sc, 2 dec (13) 26) 6 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc (14) 27) sc in each st around (14) 28) 13 sc, 2 dec (15) 29) 7 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc (16) 30) 15 sc, 2 dec (17) 31) 8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (18) 32) (8 sc, 2 dec) * 2 (20) 33) sc in each ch around (20) 34-39 - bend of the knee) sc in each ch around (20) 35 - bend of the knee) (6 sc, sc blo) * 2, 6 sc (20)

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34) 9 s, (2 dec) * 2, 9 sc (22) Continue working around the new contour marked with green color. Bend the leg above the hoof (in two points). The bend should be sharp, not smooth, as the bends are bones/joints, but not round parts of the leg.

35-43) sc in each st around (22) Do not forget to align the remove stitch after Rnd 43. 44 - right leg) 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, take the wire out through the hole, 2 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc, 2 inc (20) 44 - left leg) 9 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, 2sc, take the wire out through the hole, 2 inc (20) 45) (8 sc, 2 inc) * 2 (18) 46) 2 inc, 5 sc, ( 2 inc) * 2, 5 sc, 2 inc (14) Thread the end into a tapestry needle, bring it through the sts and pull up to add water. Fasten off.

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Back legs

If you want, you can make Rnds 1-6 with yarn of a different color to make a hoof and then continue with main color. Stuff the legs quite tightly. Leg looking forward 1) ch 4 2 sc into 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc, 3 sc in last ch, turn the work and continue along the opposite side of the beginning ch: 2 sc (8)

2) (2 dec) * 2, sc, (2 dec) * 3, sc, 2 dec (14) 3) sc in each st along (14) 4) 14 sc blo in each st around (14) Outline the sole on a piece of plastic and cut it out. Insert the plastic sole inside the hoof. 5) 6 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 2 dec (14) 6) sc in each st around (14) 7) 4 sc, (3 inc tog) * 2, 3 sc, 3 tr(12) 8) 4 sc, 3 sc tog, 3 sc, (3 tr in pro) * 2 (14) 9) sc in each st around (14) Insert a wooden plank. I used a 30-cm wire. 10) 10 sc, 3 sc tog, sc (12) 11-13) sc in each st around (12) 14) 10 sc, 2 inc (11) 15-19) sc in each st around (11) Add stuffing to the center of the back of the leg if necessary. Track the remove stitch . Do not Add stuffing in Rnds 20-24! 20-22) sc in each st around (13)

23) 9 sc, dec (11) Continue working around the new contour marked with green color.

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24) 4 sc, (2 dec) * 2, 5 sc (13) Bend the wire in the point of the bend.

25) 6 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc (14) 26) 6 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc, 2 inc (14) 27) 7 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc (15) 28) 7 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc, 2 dec (17) 29) 8 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, 2 dec (19) 30) 8 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc, 2 dec (21) 31) 9 sc, 2 dec, 10 sc, 2 dec (23) 32) 11 sc, 2 dec, 10 sc, 2 dec (25) 33) 24 sc, 2 dec (26) 34) (2 dec, 11 sc) * 2, dec (29).

35) 2 dec, 28 sc, 2 dec (34) 36) 2 dec, 32 sc, 2 dec (37) 37) 2 dec, 16 sc, 2 inc, 17 sc, 2 dec (38) 38) 2 dec, 36 sc, 2 dec (40) 39) 2 dec, 38 sc, 2 dec (42) 40) 41 sc, 2 dec (43) 41) sc in each st around (43) 42) 42 sc, 2 dec (44) 43-44) sc in each st around (44) 45-left leg) 32 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, take the wire out through the hole, 10 sc (44) 45-right leg) 10 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, take the wire out through the hole, 32 sc (44) 46-47) sc in each st around (44) 10

48) (20 sc, 2 inc) * 2 (42) 49) 19 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 17 sc (39) 50) 2 inc, 15 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 16 sc, 2 inc (35) 51) 2 inc, 13 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 13 sc, 2 inc (30) 52) 2 inc, 11 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 11 sc, 2 inc (26) You can finish the leg in two different ways. I recommend trying both and choose the one you like the best. Finishing up I used: 53) 2 inc, 9 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 9 sc, 2 inc (22) 54) 2 inc, 7 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 7 sc, 2 inc (18) 55) 2 inc, 5 sc, ( 2 inc) * 2, 5 sc, 2 inc (14) Thread the end into a tapestry needle, bring it through the sts and pull up to add water. Fasten off. Finishing up by Svetlana Tabunschshikova: 53) 2 inc, 9 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 9 sc, 3 sc tog (21) 54) 2 inc, 5 sc, (3 inc tog) * 2, 5 sc, 3 sc tog inserting the hook under the next st of the next rnd (14) Thread the end into a tapestry needle, bring it through the sts and pull up to add water. Fasten off. Leg looking backwards 1) ch 4 2 sc into 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc, 3 sc in last ch, turn the work and continue along the opposite side of the beginning ch: 2 sc (8)

2) (2 dec) * 2, sc, (2 dec) * 3, sc, 2 dec (14) 3) sc in each st along (14) 4) 14 sc blo in each st around (14) Outline the sole on a piece of plastic and cut it out. Insert the plastic sole inside the hoof. 5) 6 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 2 dec (14) 6) sc in each st around (14) 7) 4 sc, (3 inc tog) * 2, 3 sc, 3 tr(12) 8) 4 sc, 3 sc tog, 3 sc, (3 tr in pro) * 2 (14) 9) sc in each st around (14) Insert a wooden plank. I used a 30-cm wire. 10) 10 sc, 3 sc tog, sc (12) 11-13) sc in each st around (12) 14) 10 sc, 2 inc (11) 15-19) sc in each st around (11) Add stuffing to the center of the back of the leg if necessary. Track the remove stitch . Do not Add stuffing in Rnds 20-24! 20) 10 sc, 3 tr(13) 21) sc in each st around (13) 22) 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, take the wire out through the hole, 7 sc (13) 23) 10 sc, 2 inc (11) 24) 4 sc, (2 dec) * 2 5 sc (13) 25) 6 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc (14) 26) 6 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc, 2 inc (14) 27) 7 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc (15) 28) 7 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc, 2 dec (17) 29) 8 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, 2 dec (19) 30) 8 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc, 2 dec (21) 31) 9 sc, 2 dec, 10 sc, 2 dec (23) 32) 11 sc, 2 dec, 10 sc, 2 dec (25) 33) 24 sc, 2 dec (26) 34) (2 dec, 11 sc) * 2, 2 dec (29) 11

35) 2 dec, 28 sc, 2 dec (34) 36) 2 dec, 32 sc, 2 dec (37) 37) 2 dec, 16 sc, 2 inc, 17 sc, 2 dec (38) 38) 2 dec, 36 sc, 2 dec (40) 39) 2 dec, 38 sc, 2 dec (42) 40) 41 sc, 2 dec (43) 41) sc in each st around (43) 42) 42 sc, 2 dec (44) 43-44) sc in each st around (44) 45-left leg) 32 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, take the wire out through the hole, 9 sc (44) 45-right leg) 10 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, take the wire out through the hole, 31 sc (44) 46-47) sc in each st around (44) 48) 42 sc, 2 inc (43) 49) 41 sc, 2 inc (42) 50) (19 sc, 2 inc) * 2 (40) 51) 38 sc, 2 inc (39) 52) 37 sc, 2 inc (38) 53) 2 inc, 16 sc, 2 inc, 16 sc, 2 inc (35) 54) 3 sc tog, 13 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 13 sc, 2 inc (30) 55) 2 inc, 11 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 11 sc, 2 inc (26) You can finish the leg in two different ways. I recommend trying both and choose the one you like the best. Finishing up I used: 56) 2 inc, 9 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 9 sc, 2 inc (22) 57) 2 inc, 7 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 7 sc, 2 inc (18) 58) 2 inc, 5 sc, ( 2 inc) * 2, 5 sc, 2 inc (14) Thread the end into a tapestry needle, bring it through the sts and pull up to add water. Fasten off. Finishing up by Svetlana Tabunschshikova: 56) 2 inc, 9 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 9 sc, 3 sc tog (21) 57) 2 inc, 5 sc, (3 inc tog) * 2, 5 sc, 3 sc tog inserting the hook under the next st of the next rnd (14) Thread the end into a tapestry needle, bring it through the sts and pull up to add water. Fasten off.

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Head - Body - Tail

Before you start working cut out 2 m of main yarn. Start with the muzzle. 1) ch 4 2 sc into 2nd ch from the hook, sc, 3 sc in last ch, turn the work and continue along the opposite side of the beginning ch: 2 sc (8)

2) (2 dec) * 2, sc, (2 dec) * 3, sc, 2 dec (14) + 2 shift st 3) 2 sc, ch 4, skip 4 sts, 2 sc, (2 dec) * 2, 2 sc, ch 4, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, sc (20) Do not cut the yarn! Place the work with WS facing you and make nostrils.

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With 2 m of yarn cut out before work, Rnd 1 of the nostril) 2 sc inserting the hook under both loops of the sts skipped in Rnd 3, 4 sc on WS of 4-ch (marked with yellow in the photo and with red in the pic below) (6)

Rnds 2-3 of the nostril) sc in each st around (6). Fasten off.

Make the second nostril in the same way. Continue on RS of the head. 4) sc in each st around (20) + shift st. The marker goes along the central line of the head and then along the spine. Track the remove stitch to make it go straight. 5-8) sc in each st around (20) 9) 7 sc, (2 inc tog) * 2, 7 sc (16)

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10) 7 sc, (2 dec) * 2, 7 sc (18) 11) 8 sc, (2 dec) * 2, 8 sc (20) 12) 2 dec, 18 sc, 2 dec (22) 13) 9 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc (24) 14) sc, (2 dec) * 2, 18 sc, (2 dec) * 2, sc (28) 15) 12 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, 2 dec, 12 sc (30) 16) 13 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, 2 dec, 13 sc (32) 17) 14 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc blo, 2 sc in nest st, 14 sc (34) If you are making a unicorn, insert the wooden plank and take the other end of the wire between the sts of Rnds 17/18 to make the frame for the horn. The wooden plank of the unicorn is different from the one of the horse as the other end of the wire goes up and makes the frame for the horn. Only the part of the second end is twisted with the other frame. In the frame of the horse, the other end of the wire goes parallel to the first end into the neck. Then the both ends are twisted together and wrapped with plaster. I used 60 cm of wire to make frames for my horses as the frame goes inside the head, neck, body (to make the spine) and tail. It is much easier to cut off extra wire than to add more wire! Wrap the end of the wire with fabric plaster!!! Frame for the unicorn Frame for the horse

18) sc in each st around (34) 19) 14 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 14 sc (32) 20) 12 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc, 12 sc (30) 21) 11 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc, 11 sc (28) 22) sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, sc (24) 23) 7 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, take the wire out through the hole – see the photo below, sc, 2 inc, 7 sc (22) 24) sc, 2 inc, 16 sc, 2 inc, sc (20) 25) sc in each st around (20) 15

26) 1 sc, 2 inc, 14 sc, 2 inc, sc (18) Stuff the head tightly.

Continue working around the new contour marked with green color

27) 12 sc, (2 dec) * 4, 12 sc (28) 28-30) sc in each st around (28) Continue working around the new contour marked with green color

31) 12 sc, (sc, (2 dec) * 2, sc) 12 sc (30) 32-34) sc in each st around (30) Continue working around the new contour marked with green color

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35) 13 sc, (sc, (2 dec)* 2, sc) 13 sc (32) 36-38) sc in each st around (32) 39) 16 sc, (sc, (2 dec) * 2, sc) 16 sc (34)

40) sc in each st around (34) 41) 33 sc, 2 dec (35) 42) 17 sc, 2 dec, 17 sc (36) 43) 35 sc, 2 dec (37) 44) 18 sc, 2 dec, 18 sc (38) 45) 37 sc, 2 dec (39) 46) 19 sc, 2 dec, 19 sc (40) 47) 39 sc, 2 dec (41) 48) 20 sc, 2 dec, 20 sc (42) 49) (3 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc) * 6 (48) 50) (7 sc, 2 dec) * 6 (54) 51) 52 sc, 2 sc blo (54) 52) 26 sc, 2 dec, 26 sc (55) 53-56) sc in each st around (55) 57-left bent leg) 40 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, 13 sc (55) 57-right bent leg) 13 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, 40 sc (55) 58) sc in each st around (55) 59-left straight leg) 40 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, 13 sc (55) 59-right straight leg) 13 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, 40 sc (55) 60) sc in each st around (55) 61) 26 sc, 2 inc, 27 sc (54) 62) sc in each st around (54) 63) 26 sc, 2 inc, 26 sc (53) 64) sc in each st around (53) 65) 25 sc, 2 inc, 26 sc (52) 66) 15 sc in each st around (52) Continue working around the new contour marked with green color

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67) 50 sc, 2 dec, sc (53) 68) 25 sc, 2 inc, 26 sc (52) 69) 23 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 23 sc (50) 70) 22 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 22 sc (48) 71) sc in each st around (48) 72) 23 sc, 2 inc, 23 sc (47) 73-75) sc in each st around (47) 76) 46 sc, 2 dec (48) Continue working around the new contour marked with green color

77) sc in each st around (48) 18

If you want to make the mane with goat fur, cut out a stripe of fur, insert it from WS and take the fur out with a hook. When all the fur is on RS, glue the base on WS. 78) (15 sc, 2 dec) * 3 (51) 79) sc in each st around (51) 80) (8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc) * 3 (54) 81-82) sc in each st around (54) 83) 13 sc, 2 dec, 26 sc, 2 dec, 13 sc (56) 84-87) sc in each st around (56) Take the frame of the front legs out through the holes in Rnds 57 and 59, join it with the main frame twisting the ends, and wrap it with plaster. Cut off excess wire. 88) 24 sc, (2 dec) * 2, 28 sc (54)

89-91) sc in each st around (54) 92) 13 sc, 2 inc, 24 sc, 2 inc, 13 sc (52) 93) 47 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc (51) 94) 3 sc, 2 inc, 46 sc (50) 95) sc in each st around (50) 96) 21 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc, 21 sc (48) 97) sc in each st around (48) 98) 20 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc, 20 sc (46) 99) sc in each st around (46) 100) 20 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 20 sc (44) 101) 16 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, 7 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, 15 sc (44) 102) 19 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 19 sc (42) 103) 19 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 19 sc (40) 104) 18 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 18 sc (38) 105) 17 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 17 sc (36) 106) 16 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 12 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc (33) 107) 2 sc, 2 inc, 11 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 14 sc (30) 108) 13 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 9 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc (27) 109) 2 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 11 sc (24)

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Take the wire out through the holes in Rnd 101. Join it with the main frame, twisting the ends, and wrap with plaster. Cut off excess wire. Stuff the body tightly. At the sacrum stuff more tightly. Closer to groin stuff less tightly to be able to make the legs closer.

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110) 4 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 8 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 4 sc (20) 111) 3 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 6 sc, (2 inc) * 2, 3 sc (16) Add more polyester. 112) (2 inc) * 8 (8) 113-119) sc in each st around (8) 120) 2 inc, 6 sc (7) 121-122) sc in each st around (7) 123) 2 inc, 5 sc (6) Decide about the tail. If you want to make your horse more realistic, thread the ends into tapestry needle, bring it through the sts and pull up to add water. Fasten off. Tail of a realistic horse

Tail of a unicorn and flame-colored horse

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If you want to make a unicorn or a flame-colored horse, continue as follows: 124-180) sc in each st around (6 sts) Thread the end into a tapestry needle, bring it through the sts and pull up to add water. Fasten off.

Flatten the front legs after Rnd 34 and attach them to the body using the pic above as a guide. Before sewing the legs, fix them with pins. Sew the back legs to the body, pressing them against the body to prevent them from looking to the sides. Pull the legs closer to each other. There might be a small cavity under the tail - don’t worry, it will be hidden under the tail.

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The horse looks like this.

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Ears.

Make two following the instructions:

1) Ch 5 (in the picture there are 4 ch as 1 ch is for turning). Ss in 2nd ch from the hook, 2 sc, (sc, dc, sc) in last ch, turn work and continue along the opposite side of the beginning chain: 2 sc, ss (9) Ch 1 for turning and work in opposite direction. 2) ss, 3 sc, 3 dc in next st, 3 sc, ss Fasten off. At the place with 3 dc in one st join the 1st and 3rd st tog to make pointed ears. I recommend attaching the ears after you have attached the mane.

Finishing up

Sculpting To make the horse look more realistic, it is necessary to do sculpting of the neck. Count 6 sts to the right and left between Rnds 28 and 29, place additional markers. Count 23 sts to the right and left between Rnds 49 and 50, place additional markers.

Place additional markers between these markers placing them every 2 rnds. Do sculpting through these points. Thread a tapestry needle with strong thread. Insert the needle into the upper point leaving a 15-m tail outside, take the needle out through the symmetrical point at the other side of 25

the neck. Insert the needle into the point located 2 rnds below and take it out through the symmetrical point at the other side of the neck. Repeat to the last point, pulling the sides of the neck closer. Do not pull too tightly. It is critical to sculpt the neck and not to join the sides of the neck together. Repeat the steps above going upwards. Insert the needle 1 st below and take it out through the very first point. Tie the ends together, weave in the ends.

Sculpture the eyes. Count 5 sts to the left and down (A) and to the right and down (B) between Rnds 16 and 17 of the head, place additional markers. With strong thread, pull this dots closer to each other. Attach the eyes into the eye sockets. Pull the nostrils closer to each other in the same way.

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As the flame-colored horse does not have a clear contour, you can brush it (only the flamecolored horse, but not any other) with velcro tape. This will make the horse’s surface velour.

Mane and Tail

Make the mane and the flame tail with beads according to the chart (see appendix). Attention! White color marks cavities and not beads. There are four colors of beads: yellow, orange, red and the color of petrol. The method of making the mane is similar to making a mosaic leaf. The only difference is that the bottom of the mane is even. Make a knot around any bead leaving a 15-cm tail. Do not count this bead - it is just a stop bead, it will be taken out. Weaving upwards Weaving the top Weaving downwards

Weaving upwards Weave in 8 beads according to the pattern: orange bead, petrol color bead, red bead, petrol color bead, red bead, petrol color bead, red bead. Insert the needle into the red bead in Row 5 (the 4th bead from the needle), put a red bead on the needle and insert the needle into the red bead in Row 3. Put an orange bead onto the needle and insert the needle into the orange bead in Row 1. Now work in opposite direction. Put a yellow bead onto the needle and insert the needle into the outstanding orange bead in Row 2. Put an orange bead onto the needle and insert the needle into the red bead in Row 4. Put a red bead onto the needle and insert the needle into the red bead in Row 6. Put a red bead, petrol color bead and a red bead onto the needle and insert the needle into the first red bead. Pull the thread. Continue working downwards according to the chart. 28

Making the top (increase) When you have to make the top of the flame, put one red and three petrol color beads onto the needle (set A). When working downwards in the next row, petrol color beads from set A remain undone. The figures 2 in the chart mean there are two tops, but one top overlaps the other top to make fringe. However, in chart 2E they overlap and are not joined together. When the tongue of the flame descends, it means that when the row reaches the top, we put two red and two petrol color beads onto the needle, insert the needle under the first red bead and when go to the top of the row, we do not insert the needle into the petrol color bead - we do not go up to the next step. Put two red and two petrol color beads onto the needle and repeat the steps as many times as you need to make the flame as long as you want. When the mane is ready, make some stitches to weave in the end. It is not necessary to make knots if you are sure that the thread end is weaved well in the fabric. It is better to make a bead tail according to the chart below. Weave in the last petrol color bead in the last step using the beginning thread tail and then weave in the tail in the fabric. With pins, fix the mane and the tail and then sew them on.

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Make eyelids. Sew the ears on the head. Weave in all the tails.

Tinting

Tinting is a very important stage in making any toy. It makes the toy more expressive. I use dry pastel which I powder before using and a black ballpoint pen. Besides the cheeks, the whole horse is tinted with dark-brown color. First, tint the neck to hide the sculpting. Make a darker line along the sculpting line as well as behind cheek-bones. Then shade the tint closer to the center of the neck. I recommend using hard toothbrush. Tint a little inside the nostrils and ears. With a black ballpoint pen, tint around the eyes making their contour more visible. The inner corner of the eyes look straight and a bit downwards while the outer corner looks upwards and backwards. Tinting of the neck, ears, nostrils

Tinting of the eyelids with a black ballpoint pen

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Now make a line to the round muscle of the cheek. After that, make a line from the center to the end of the lower eyelid. Make a line from the nostrils along the muzzle, and along the upper eyelid to the center of the ear.

With white color, highlight the cheeks. The muzzle is finished.

Tint the hooves, round parts of the legs and around the knees. You can also tint shoulder muscles. The flame-color horse is finished.

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I recommend tinting the black horse after you have attached the mane, the beard and the tail, as they need to be tinted too. If your horse is black, I recommend using iron glass eyes. Do not use black eyes, as they are not visible on a black horse. Tint with white color or white color mixed with silver color. Tint from the nostrils to the inner corners of the ears and along the upper eyelid. Tint inside the ears. You can make a line from the center of the nose to the middle of the forehead. Highlight the neck and cheekbones. It is not necessary to highlight the cheeks. Tint the round parts of the legs and hips. Add white lines on the mane, beard and tail. 32

Mane made of felting wool To make the mane, tail and beard of the dark horse, I used the cheapest variant - felting wool. To make a frost effect, you can unweave metallic embroidery threads and add them to some parts. To make the mane go upwards, you can attach it following the recommendations by Marina Chuchkalova in the video:

I used a quite thin tress of the wool approx. 15 cm long, folded it in half and with a hook drew it through the next st. To make the beard and cuffs on the legs, I used the tresses 5-6 cm long. The mane is attached from the forehead to the shoulder in one line. The next tress is attached in the next round. Attach the beard and the fur around the tail in the same way in one line.

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To attach the cuffs of the legs, skip 4-5 rnds above the hooves. The cuffs are attached only at the back of the legs. It is better to leave a 3-4-st distance at the front of the legs. The every st is attached in the next st parallel to the hoof. The tresses are attached to the tail at the send part of it. All the tresses are attached around the tail in every 3-4 rnd to the end of the tail. After you have attached all the tresses, brush the mane, tail, beard and the cuffs. Trim the mane, tail, bears and cuffs. Use hair spray to fix the mane.

Mane made of a goat fur The mane made of a goat or a lama fur looks beautiful and natural. However, this variant is more expensive. A goat or lama fur is usually sold on a thin piece of skin. It is just sewn to the toy on WS. To attach it I recommend using tips of experienced crocheters. In her free tutorial, Natalia Berdnikova teaches us how to attach a mane to a unicorn. https://ami.guru/forum/topic/49460-%D0%B3%D1%80%D0%B8%D0%B2%D0%B0%D0%B8%D0%B7-%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%B7%D1%8B/ Julia Voitenko used the same way to attach the mane to the horse. Attaching the mane made of a goat fur by Julia Voitenko Cut out a tress of a necessary size.

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Apply a bit of glue to the tress to prevent the hair from spilling.

Flatten the end of the tress with fingers.

With felting needle, fix the tresses inside the horse. If necessary, fix the tresses with transparent glue using a needle or a toothpick.

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The horse with a wonderful mane and tail is ready.

Attaching the mane and tail made of tresses by TatianaChertova How to make the mane of tresses. You will need a ready tress (the length of the tress is 1 m) and a bit of main color yarn. Attach the tress to the neck of the horse along the spine and measure one length of the neck. Multiply this length by 4 and cut of this stripe. Thus, you will make a 4-layer mane. Attention! The cut ends in the middle of the tress are behind work, on WS (see the photo). The hair of the tress look downwards when working, Make a rnd of sc through the both layers of the tress. 36

Fold the tress in half to find the center, then fold the both ends to the center and fix them with a pin and a few stitches.

Start crocheting with the folded sts at the folding line.

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Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. The mane is ready. Fold the mane in half.

(I left the hook in the photo to make id more informative) Attention! The mane from the side of the hook is the shoulder part of the back of the horse, while the loop at the folding point is attached to the head. Put the mane to the neck along the spine, fix it with pins and start sewing on. Attach the mane picking up a st from the first part and the second part of the tress at the same time in one st. Make sure the both parts of the tress are attached tightly to each other. How to make the tail Make the tail using the leftover of the tress. Take the tress into your left hand. With your right hand, fold 7-8 cm of the tress. Fix the thread in the same way as for the mane. Make 3 sc (7-8 mm) inserting the hook through the both layers of the tress.

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Put the work with WS facing you and make 3 sc inserting the hook under the front loops of the 1st row and at the same time through the tress. Put the work with RS facing you and make 3 sc inserting the hook under the front loops of the precious row and at the same time through the tress. The 2nd row of 3 sc is finished. Continue working in rnds inserting the hook through the tress and both loops of the sts in the previous row. Make the tail as long as you want. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching. Put the tail onto the wooden plank and sew it on.

The tail is finished.

How to make a yarn mane There are a few ways how to make a name and a tail of yarn. You can unweave microfiber yarn (e.g. Alize Diva yarn) and attach it following the instructions on how to attach the mane for the dark horse. Felt the yarn using a felting needle. However, this way is not the best. 39

You can make several sts on a sewing machine following the advice by Svetlana Tabunschshikova. Cut off two lengths of the mane.

Cut it in half and make a stitch right in the middle (you can put a piece of paper below the yarn to facilitate the work).

Try the mane on the horse and check the length. If necessary, add more yarn.

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Fold the mane in half. Make stitches along the end. Thus, you have made a tress.

With pins, fix it to the horse. Attach the mane to the horse along the spine.

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Unicorn’s horn.

You can make the horn with cotton yarn. Ch as many chains to make a ring around the wooden plank. Continue working in continuous spiral to the end of the horn. You can also make horns with polymeric clay. I prefer a horn made of beads. I use Toho beads No 15 of two colors. 1 step) Make a twisted cord Ndebele with even number of beads. I made the cord with 8 beads: 7 silver beads and 1 turquoise bead.

Follow the link to see the tutorial how to make a twisted cord. The author of the tutorial is Ekaterina Kostinskaia  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYT4hidrkZI&list=PLv3wg34d13NL1Zq8fUaWmSWWPRCK-VRgQ 2 step) Approx. 0.5 cm before the end of the wire I used one bead instead of two. Thus, the 8bead cord turned out to be a 4-bead cord.

3 step) Insert the needle into this bead.

4 step) Thread 2 beads on the needle and insert the needle into the next bead.

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Repeat step 3. Repeat step 4. Continue making a 4-bead cord using the tutorial by Ekaterina Kostinskaia.

Make a cord 2 mm longer than the wire. At the end draw 4 beads or thread one bead instead of 2. The horn looks like this.

Put the horn on the wooden plank and attach to the head.

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That is all. The horse is finished. Now you can harness the horse and give it to the Gods of Day and Night.

Results of the pattern testing

A charming beauty Iriska. She is a very tender and kind horse. She likes it when you stroke her. She adores to crunch apples and carrots. She is so obedient that even little kids like riding her. This wonder has appeared thanks to Svetlana Tabunschshikiva. It is 17 cm long and 16 cm tall. It is made with Vita Brilliant yarn (45% wool, 55% acrylic; 380m/100m) About half of a skein. Svetlana made the mane and the tail of some acrylic yarn. The hooves are tinted with acrylic colors. Some beads are weaved into the mane. Svetlana used ready plastic eyes. She worked with 1.75 mm Clover crochet hook.

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This wonderful horse is called Thunder. Thunder is a restive horse. He is fast and looks fantastic. It is made of Alize Extra (10% wool, 90% acrylic; 220m/100g), color 240-310990. The horse is 24 cm tall and 22 cm long. It is tinted with pastel colors and ballpoint pen. The hooves are tinted with acrylic colors. The nostrils are sculpted.

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This kind magic was brought to life by Julia Voitenko. A magic horse called Largetta. Unlike my horses changing day and night and pulling the Moon, Largetta brings to all children and grown-ups magic fair dreams in her mane. It is made of Alize Sal Simi with 1.25 Clover crochet hook. The horse is 15.5 cm tall and 15 cm long. The mane and horse are made of a goat fur. The eyes and the eye whites 46

are made of felting yarn. The eyes are glass toy eyes 6mm in diameter. The hooves are made of metallic embroidery thread.

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A magic unicorn by Tatiana Chertova is made of cotton yarn with matanit (it is discontinued). The mane and the tail are made of tresses (made in China). Here is Tatiana’s opinion of the tresses: “If you want to make the mane and the tail of this tress, I advise you to have 1m tress. It will be enough. It is better to use a straight tress with hair no longer than 15 cm” The horse is tinted with oil points.

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Inna Galchinskaia has made two horses, which has become a real surprise for me! The silver unicorn Argentius and the flame-colored horse Flammeus. The flame-colored horse is made of Alize Real 40 (480m/100 g) with 1.25 mm Clover crochet hook. The eyes are ready toy eyes 8 mm in diameter. Toho beads No 15, colors 0030; 0032; 0025. The unicorn is 16 cm tall and 19.5 cm long. The silver horse is made of Alize Angora Simi (500 m/100 g) Toho beads No 15, colors 81, 127, 0145, 0132. The eyes are ready 6 mm glass eyes. The horse is 16 cm tall and 19 cm long. The horn and the hooves are made of polymeric clay and colored with acrylic colors.

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Appendix Tail

Mane

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