Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees - Walks, Climbs and Multi-day Treks

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WALKS AND CLIMBS IN THE PYRENEES by Kev Reynolds

2 POLICE SQUARE MILNTHORPE CUMBRIA LA7 7PY www.cicerone.co.uk

About the Author Kev Reynolds is a freelance writer, photojournalist and lecturer who lives in the Kent countryside when not trekking or climbing in distant mountain regions. A prolific compiler of guidebooks, Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees was his first title for Cicerone Press, and his enthusiasm for these mountains now spans 40 years and dozens of visits, a number of which feature in A Walk in the Clouds , a collection of short stories celebrating his life among the mountains. He has also trekked in many other mountain regions of Europe, Africa, Asia and South America, and produced a number of guides to the Alps and Himalaya, as well as to his home territory of southern England. A member of the Alpine Club, Austrian Alpine Club and Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild, he was the first Honorary Member of the British Association of International Mountain Leaders (BAIML). Most winters find Kev travelling around Britain sharing his love of wild places through his lectures. Check him out on www.kevreynolds.co.uk .

Cicerone guidebooks by the same author 100 Hut Walks in the Alps A Walk in the Clouds Alpine Pass Route Alpine Points of View Central Switzerland Chamonix to Zermatt, the Walker’s Haute Route Écrins National Park Everest: A Trekker’s Guide Langtang, Helambu & Gosainkund: A Trekker’s Guide Manaslu: A Trekker’s Guide The Bernese Alps The Cotswold Way The North Downs Way The Pyrenees The South Downs Way The Swiss Alps Tour of Mont Blanc Tour of the Jungfrau Region Tour of the Oisans Tour of the Vanoise Trekking in the Alps Trekking in the Himalaya Trekking in the Silvretta & Rätikon Alps Walking in Austria Walking in Kent Walking in Sussex Walking in the Alps Walking in the Valais Walking in Ticino – Switzerland Walks in the Engadine

Walks in the South Downs National Park

© Kev Reynolds 1978, 1983, 1993, 2001, 2008, 2015 Sixth edition 2015 ISBN-13: 978 1 85284 781 4 First edition 1978 Second edition 1983 Third edition 1993 Fourth edition 2001 Fifth edition 2008 ISBN-13: 978 1 85284 470 7 Reprinted 2010 (with updates) A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Dedication This book is for Jean and Pierre Ravier – the ultimate Pyrénéistes – to mark 25 years of cooperation and friendship.

Updates to this Guide Readers are advised that, while every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Please check the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk ) for any updates before planning your trip. It is also advisable to check information on such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY, United Kingdom.

Front cover: Refuge de la Brèche provides an almost perfect vantage point from which to study Pic du Marboré across the Cirque de Gavarnie (Routes 71– 78)

MOUNTAIN SAFETY Every mountain walk has its dangers, and those described in this guidebook are no exception. All who walk or climb in the Pyrenees should recognise this and take responsibility for themselves and their companions along the way. The author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information contained herein was correct when the guide went to press, but they cannot accept responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person using this book. International Distress Signal (To be used in emergency only) Six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) spaced evenly for one minute, followed by a minute’s pause. Repeat until an answer is received. The response is three signals per minute followed by a minute’s pause. The following signals are used to communicate with a helicopter: Note: Mountain rescue can be very expensive – be adequately insured.

Emergency telephone numbers France: Ariège:

112 or 05 61 64 22 58

Haute-Garonne: Hautes-Pyrénées:

05 61 89 31 31 05 62 92 41 41

Pyrénées Atlantiques: Pyrénées Orientales: Spain: Aragon: Catalonia: Navarre:

112 085 112

05 59 10 02 50 04 68 30 30 57

Val d’Aran: Andorra:

73 64 00 04 112

CONTENTS Preface to the Sixth Edition Introduction The Mountains National Parks Vegetation Wildlife Getting There Weather Equipment Refuges, Gîtes and Camping Maps Emergency Services Using the Guide Information at a Glance

The French Pyrenees: Cirque de Lescun to the Carlit Massif 1 Cirque de Lescun: Routes 1–11 Route 1 Lescun – Refuge de Labérouat Route 2 Lescun – Pic d’Anie Route 3 Lescun (Parking Nabia) – Lac de Lhurs Route 4 Lescun – Cabane de Pédain Route 5 Cabane de Pédain – Cabane d’Ansabère Route 6 Lescun – Cabane d’Ansabère Route 7 Cabane d’Ansabère – Pic d’Ansabère Route 8 Lescun (Pont Lamary) – Lac d’Ansabère – Ibón de Acherito Route 9 Cabane d’Ansabère – Col de Burcq – Refuge d’Arlet Route 10 Cirque de Lescun and the Frontier Ridge Route 11 Lescun to Refuge d’Ayous via Etsaut

2 Pic du Midi d’Ossau: Routes 12–20 Route 12 Lac de Bious-Artigues – Refuge d’Ayous Route 13 Lac de Bious-Artigues – Col de Suzon – Refuge de Pombie Route 14 Lac de Bious-Artigues – Col de Peyreget – Refuge de Pombie Route 15 Ossau Valley (Caillou de Soques) – Refuge de Pombie Route 16 Col du Pourtalet (Anéou Pastures) – Refuge de Pombie Route 17 Refuge de Pombie – Pic du Midi d’Ossau Route 18 Ayous Lakes Circuit Route 19 Tour of Pic du Midi d’Ossau Route 20 Extended Tour of Pic du Midi

3 Balaïtous: Routes 21–35

Route 21 Ossau Valley (Caillou de Soques) – Refuge d’Arrémoulit (via Passage d’Orteig) Route 22 Ossau Valley (Caillou de Soques) – Refuge d’Arrémoulit (via Lac d’Artouste) Route 23 Lac d’Artouste – Refuge d’Arrémoulit Route 24 Refuge d’Arrémoulit – Pic Palas Route 25 Refuge d’Arrémoulit – Col du Palas – Port du Lavedan – Refuge de Larribet Route 26 Plan d’Aste – Lac de Suyen – Refuge de Larribet Route 27 Plan d’Aste – Refuge Ledormeur Route 28 Plan d’Aste – Refuge de Migouélou Route 29 Lac d’Artouste – Col d’Artouste – Refuge de Migouélou Route 30 Refuge d’Arrémoulit – Col d’Arrémoulit – Refugio Respomuso Route 31 Sallent de Gallego (Puente de la Fajas) – Refugio Respomuso Route 32 Tour of the Balaïtous Region Route 33 Lac du Tech (Vallée d’Arrens) – Lac de Pouey-Laün Route 34 Refuge d’Arrémoulit – Balaïtous Route 35 Refuge de Larribet – Balaïtous

4 The Gourette Massif: Routes 36–38 Route 36 Gourette – Lac d’Anglas Route 37 Gourette – Lac d’Uzious – Lac du Lavedan Route 38 Gourette – Lac du Tech – Arrens-Marsous – Gourette

5 Vallée d’Estaing: Routes 39–42 Route 39 Circuit of Lac d’Estaing Route 40 Lac d’Estaing – Lac du Plaa de Prat Route 41 Lac d’Estaing – Col d’Ilhéou – Refuge d’Ilhéou Route 42 Lac d’Estaing – Lac du Barbat

6 Vallée du Marcadau: Routes 43–53 Route 43 Cauterets – Pont d’Espagne – Chalet-Refuge du Clot Route 44 Chalet-Refuge du Clot – Refuge Wallon Route 45 Pont d’Espagne – Refuge Wallon Route 46 Refuge Wallon – Grande Fache Route 47 Refuge Wallon – Port du Marcadau Route 48 Refuge Wallon – Pic de Cambalès Route 49 Refuge Wallon – Col de Cambalès Route 50 Marcadau Lakes Circuit Route 51 Refuge Wallon – Col d’Arratille Route 52 A Tour of the Arratille Valley Route 53 Refuge Wallon to Gavarnie

7 Vignemale: Routes 54–61 Route 54 Pont d’Espagne – Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube Route 55 Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube – Refuge de Bayssellance Route 56 Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube – Petit Vignemale Route 57 Hourquette d’Ossoue – Pointe Chausenque Route 58 Gavarnie (Barrage d’Ossoue) – Refuge de Baysellance Route 59 Refuge de Bayssellance – Vignemale

Route 60 Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube – Col des Oulettes – Torla Route 61 Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube – Refuge d’Estom

8 Vallée de Lutour: Routes 62–65 Route 62 Cauterets – La Fruitière Route 63 La Fruitière – Refuge d’Estom Route 64 Refuge d’Estom – Lac Glacé Route 65 La Fruitière – Refuge Russell

9 Gavarnie: Routes 66–78 Route 66 Gavarnie – Plateau de Bellevue – Gavarnie Route 67 Gavarnie – Hôtellerie du Cirque – Gavarnie Route 68 Gavarnie – Refuge des Espuguettes Route 69 Gavarnie – Refuge des Espuguettes – Piméné Route 70 Gavarnie (Col de Tentes) – Pic de Tentes – Pic de la Pahule Route 71 Gavarnie – Refuge de la Brèche Route 72 Col de Tentes – Port de Boucharo – Refuge de la Brèche Route 73 Gavarnie – Refuge de la Brèche Route 74 Refuge de la Brèche – Pic du Marboré Route 75 Refuge de la Brèche – Tour du Marboré Route 76 Refuge de la Brèche – Casque du Marboré Route 77 Refuge de la Brèche – Pic du Taillon Route 78 Refuge de la Brèche – Refugio de Góriz

10 Estaubé, Troumouse and Barroude: Routes 79–82 Route 79 Barrage des Gloriettes – Cabane d’Estaubé Route 80 Héas – Lacs des Aires – Le Cot Route 81 Héas – Hourquette d’Héas – Hourquette de Chermentas – Refuge de Barroude Route 82 Refuge de Barroude – Pic de Port-Vieux – Port Vieux – Refuge de Barroude

11 Réserve Naturelle de Néouvielle: Routes 83–94 Route 83 Barèges – Refuge de la Glère Route 84 Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie) – Lac dets Coubous Route 85 Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie) – Cabane d’Aygues-Cluses Route 86 Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie) – Col de Madamète – Pic de Madamète – Lac dets Coubous – Pont de la Gaubie Route 87 Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie) – Col de Madamète – Chalet-Hôtel de l’Oule Route 88 Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie) – Hourquette Nère – Refuge de Bastan Route 89 Chalet-Hôtel de l’Oule – Refuge de Bastan Route 90 Artigues (Col du Tourmalet road) – Refuge de Campana de Cloutou Route 91 Vallée de Couplan – Chalet-Hôtel de l’Oule Route 92 A Walking Circuit of Lac de l’Oule Route 93 A Circuit of Lac d’Aumar Route 94 A Néouvielle Lakes Circuit

12 Lac d’Oô and the Cirque d’Espingo: Routes 95–97 Route 95 Granges d’Astau – Lac d’Oô – Refuge d’Espingo Route 96 Refuge d’Espingo – Refuge du Portillon

Route 97 Refuge d’Espingo – Port d’Oô – Refugio de Estós

13 Vallées de la Pique and du Lis: Routes 98–102 Route 98 Vallée du Lis – Refuge du Maupas Route 99 Refuge du Maupas – Lac Célinda Route 100 Vallée du Lis – Lac Vert – Lac des Grauès – Vallée du Lis Route 101 Hospice de France – Refuge de Vénasque – Port de Vénasque Route 102 Hospice de France – Pas de la Montjoie – Pas de l’Escalette – Puerto de la Picada – Port de Vénasque – Hospice de France

14 Haute Vallée du Garbet: Routes 103–106 Route 103 Aulus-les-Bains – Cascade du Fouillet – Aulus-les-Bains Route 104 Aulus-les-Bains – Étang de Guzet – Cascade d’Ars – Aulus Route 105 Aulus-les-Bains (Le Garbettou) – Plateau de Garbettou – Étang du Garbet Route 106 Aulus-les-Bains (Coumebière) – Port de Saleix – Refuge de Bassiès

15 The Carlit Massif: Routes 107–114 Route 107 Orlu (Pont de Bisp) – Refuge d’En Beys Route 108 Refuge d’En Beys – Porté-Puymorens Route 109 l’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre – Refuge des Bésines Route 110 Walking Tour of the Vallée de Lanous Route 111 Porté-Puymorens – Pic Carlit Route 112 Chalet-Refuge des Bouillouses – Pic Carlit Route 113 The Carlit Lakes Tour Route 114 Tour du Carlit

The Spanish Pyrenees: Ordesa to Andorra 16 Ordesa National Park: Routes 115–123 Route 115 Torla – Pradera de Ordesa Route 116 Pradera de Ordesa – Refugio de Góriz Route 117 Pradera de Ordesa – Circo de Soaso – Faja de Pelay – Ordesa Route 118 Pradera de Ordesa – Faja los Canarellos – Ordesa Route 119 Refugio de Góriz – Collado de Arrablo – Añisclo Canyon – Puente de San Úrbez Route 120 The Spanish Canyons Tour Route 121 Refugio de Góriz – Monte Perdido Route 122 Valle de Pineta – Monte Perdido Route 123 Valle de Pineta – Llanos de La Larri

17 The Posets Massif: Routes 124–132 Route 124 Eriste – Refugio Ángel Orús Route 125 Eriste – Refugio Clot de Chil Route 126 Benasque – Refugio de Estós Route 127 Refugio de Estós – Pico de Posets Route 128 Refugio de Estós – Pico de Posets Route 129 Puente Nuevo de San Chaime – Ibónes d’Escarpinosa Route 130 Refugio de Estós – Puerto de Gistain – Refugio de Viadós Route 131 Refugio de Viadós – Collado de Eriste – Refugio Ángel Orús

Route 132 Tour of the Posets Massif

18 The Maladeta Massif: Routes 133–142 Route 133 Hospital de Benasque – Ibón de Gorgutes Route 134 Hospital de Benasque – Forau dels Aigualluts Route 135 Hospital de Benasque – Refugio de la Renclusa Route 136 Refugio de la Renclusa – Pico de Aneto Route 137 Refugio de Coronas – Pico de Aneto Route 138 Refugio de la Renclusa – Pico de la Maladeta Route 139 Refugio de la Renclusa – Pico de la Maladeta Route 140 Refugio de la Renclusa – Pico de Alba Route 141 Refugio de la Renclusa – Pico Forcanada Route 142 Hospital de Benasque – Refugi Sant Nicolau

19 Aigüestortes West – The Besiberri Massif: Routes 143–154 Route 143 Refugi Conangles – Refugi de Besiberri Route 144 Vall de Sant Nicolau – Aigüestortes – Refugi d’Estany Llong Route 145 Refugi d’Estany Llong – Estany Redó – Refugi d’Estany Llong Route 146 Refugi d’Estany Llong – Portarró d’Espot Route 147 Estany de Cavallers – Refugi Ventosa i Calvell Route 148 Refugi Ventosa i Calvell – Besiberri Nord Route 149 Tour of the Agulles de Travessani Route 150 Refugi Ventosa i Calvell – Montardo d’Aran Route 151 Refugi Ventosa i Calvell – Coll de Crestada – Refugi de la Restanca Route 152 Arties/Pònt deth Ressèc – Refugi de la Restanca Route 153 Refugi Sant Nicolau – Port de Rius – Collado de Lac de Mar – Refugi de la Restanca Route 154 Salardú/Banhs de Tredòs – Refugi de Colomèrs

20 Aigüestortes East – Encantados: Routes 155–159 Route 155 Espot – Refugi J.M. Blanc Route 156 Refugi E. Mallafré – Gran Encantat Route 157 Estany de Sant Maurici – Refugi d’Amitges Route 158 Refugi d’Amitges – Agulle d’Amitges Route 159 Capdella/Embalse de Sallente – Refugi Colomina

21 Andorra: Routes 160–170 Route 160 Grau Roig – Estanys dels Pessons Route 161 Soldeu – Estanys del Siscaró – Pont de la Baladosa – Soldeu Route 162 Soldeu (Pont de la Baladosa) – Collada de Juclar Route 163 Soldeu (Pont d’Incles) – Pont de Bonavida – Port d’Incles – Étangs de Fontargente Route 164 Soldeu – Canillo Route 165 Ransol – Refugi dels Coms de Jan Route 166 Arcalís – Estanys de Tristaina Route 167 Arinsal – Refugi de Coma Pedrosa Route 168 Refugi de Coma Pedrosa – Pic de Coma Pedrosa Route 169 Les Escaldes – Refugi de l’Illa Route 170 A Circuit of Andorra’s Frontier Peaks

Appendix A Useful Addresses Appendix B Bibliography Appendix C Glossary Appendix D Route Index

Lac de Rius, on the eastern side of Port de Rius (Route 153)

PREFACE TO THE SIXTH EDITION Since the first slender edition of this guide appeared in 1978 the Pyrenees (mountains, valleys, huts and villages) have changed enormously, and the huge increase in the number of active walkers and climbers has brought about a boom in tourist infrastructure undreamed of three decades and more ago. Nowadays ‘the fleas that tease in the high Pyrenees’ are a rarity in hotels and refuges that no longer welcome guests with straw mattresses, while signed and waymarked paths, and better cartography, has had the effect of unravelling the mystery of so many ‘back-of-beyond’ valleys. Not least of all the changes is the transformation of the high Pyrenean landscape that once dazzled with modest glaciers and small snowfields on the loftiest of summits. Thanks to climate change, the few remaining glaciers are shrinking at an alarming rate, and it cannot be long before there are no more icefields left, and once winter snow has melted, the white-capped summits will remain only in memory. But for all this change the Pyrenees remains a wonderland for all who are attracted by wildly romantic scenery and a taste for adventure, and even the most dedicated of aficionados will find that a single lifetime is not enough to explore it all. This guide, fat though it is, merely picks out a few of the juiciest plums clustered on both sides of the international border between the glorious Cirque de Lescun in the west, and the tarn-spattered Carlit Massif in the east. When following any of the routes, whether walks, treks or climbs, my hope is that you will have the best of experiences, and discover for yourself what it is that makes the Pyrenees so special. Once again I am indebted to fellow enthusiasts for their correspondence, information and suggestions that help keep me updated. For this latest edition I readily acknowledge advice given by Jens Albrectsen; by my good friend Françoise Besson (a true native Pyrenean); by Ton Joosten, author not only of the Cicerone guide to the Pyrenean Haute Route, but to many other guides to these mountains in his native Dutch language; by fellow trekkers Clive and Frances Shelley; and Richard Tiley. My wife continues to share my love of these mountains and is the best of companions on the hills, in the valleys and at home, while Jonathan Williams and all the team at Cicerone once again used their skills and talents on our behalf to create the book you hold in your hands. My thanks to them all for their support. It really is much appreciated. And lastly, I publicly acknowledge a special debt of gratitude reserved for my friends Jean and Pierre Ravier, the ultimate Pyrénéistes, whose generous flow of information, advice and encouragement has been a frequent and much valued source of pleasure for three decades. Their devotion to all things Pyrenean is a true inspiration, and it is both a pleasure and a privilege to

dedicate this guide to them. Merci mon amis! Kev Reynolds, 2015

The Vallée du Marcadau (Chapter 6)

INTRODUCTION

The Grande Aiguille d’Ansabère holds a number of extreme climbs (Chapter 1)

The 400km-long chain of the Pyrenees contains some of Europe’s finest wild landscapes, of immense appeal not only to walkers, trekkers and climbers but also to birdwatchers, butterfly- and flower-lovers, caving enthusiasts and those who gain a thrill from descending waterfalls and rivers – the sport known as canyoning. As an arena for outdoor adventure the Pyrenees fulfils so many dreams. The Alps they are not, and it would be a mistake to attempt comparisons. These are mountains of another order, with summits in excess of 3000m that are within reach of most hillwalkers weaned on the heights of Snowdonia or the Lakeland fells. There are also vertical and near-vertical walls and pinnacles to test the stamina and expertise of the ardent rock specialist. There are valleys of sheer enchantment, tracts of semi-wilderness to answer the needs of the devoted backpacker, and acres of alpine flowers of such rich variety that the botanist could happily spend months of worthwhile exploration there. This guide is an introduction to a wonderfully diverse range of mountains. It offers suggestions for walks, multi-day tours and moderate ascents of some of the principal summits in the region known as the Central, or High Pyrenees. Those whose ambitions lie in scaling the more extreme faces are directed to Rock Climbs in the Pyrenees by Derek L. Walker (Cicerone Press), and to various publications in French and Spanish on sale in Pyrenean resorts that describe routes outside the scope of this book.

Exposed strata of the Balcon de Pineta’s wall (Route 122)

The Mountains ‘Europe ends at the Pyrenees’ is a well-established cliché born of a geographical half-truth. For the mountain barrier reaching from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean acts as a natural frontier dividing Western Europe from the Iberian peninsula, separating a mosaic of northern cultures from those of Spain, a country dusted with the hot breath of Africa. With a few notable exceptions that frontier traces the watershed and, generally speaking, the major peaks are positioned along it. There are, however, important massifs – and these include the very highest – that are separated to the south of the international boundary by parallel valleys. The range is one of startling contrasts. On the northern slopes, for instance, mountains fall steeply to the plains, while the Spanish side is confused by a series of successive ridges – or sierras – which run in a maze away from the main crest to subside in the badlands of the Ebro basin. In the west the Basque country receives heavy, moisture-laden winds from the Atlantic, but the eastern sector has a truly Mediterranean climate with low rainfall confined to the winter months, and hot dry summers. The landscape offers a rich variety of features guaranteed to excite and entice the first-time visitor. Forests of oak, pine and beech in the west are far removed from vineyards and orchards that dress the sun-baked plateaux of Catalonia. Between these two extremes the High Pyrenees – the area covered by this guide – contains all the attractions of alpine scenery: sharp, irregular peaks sprinkled with snow, shallow glaciers, deep, trench-like canyons, great amphitheatres (cirques), and many hundreds of glistening mountain tarns.

Broadly speaking, the Pyrenees has a central core of crystalline rocks, overlaid by sedimentary blocks brought to the surface during processes of folding. The twisted strata of the Cirque de Gavarnie, and rocks that wall the Balcon de Pineta, are obvious examples of these folds that were intensified by restrictions imposed by the Central Plateau in the north, and the Spanish Meseta in the south. However, the distribution of rock types is complex throughout the range, for while limestones dominate at the western end, granite of varying qualities is generally found in the heart of the chain, although anomalies exist almost everywhere. Glaciers sculpted the valleys and were responsible for eroding sharp alpine summits, and as with the Alps, the Pyrenees were most affected by glaciation during the Quaternary Ice Age. Characterised by U-shaped valleys, hanging valleys and numerous impressive cirques, the central part of the chain bears witness to this glaciation, with well over 1000 glacial lakes left behind by the last Ice Age adding a prominent and picturesque component to the landscape. Not only glaciers, but water too has played an important role in eroding the limestone masses, and the canyons, subterranean channels and vast cave systems have given the Pyrenees some of its most striking natural features.

An unhindered view of the Besiberri massif is gained from below Port de Caldes in the Aigüestortes national park (Route 149)

Bordered by Pic d’Anie (2504m) in the west, and the Carlit massif northeast of Andorra, the High Pyrenees contains three National Parks (one in France, two in Spain), two large and important nature reserves (one on each side of the frontier) and all the 3000m summits (most recently listed as 129 principal peaks, 67 secondary summits, and 82 ridge projections: a total of 278). The three highest are all on the Spanish flank: Pico de Aneto (3404m), Pico de Posets (3375m) and the 3355m Monte Perdido (Mont Perdu).

National Parks Dating from 1967 the Parc National des Pyrénées (PNP) begins as a thin ribbon among mountains south of Lescun, and spreads eastward as far as the Néouvielle massif; a distance of around 100km covering some 45,700ha. Within it are found perhaps the finest individual peaks north of the watershed: Pic du Midi d’Ossau, Balaïtous and the Vignemale; the stupendous cirques of Gavarnie, Estaubé, Troumouse and Barroude; and more than 100 mountain tarns. A much larger peripheral zone pushes further north and east, and within that, on the eastern edge of the main PNP, lies the Réserve Naturelle de Néouvielle , which has been preserved since 1935.

The majestic right-hand wall of the Valle de Pineta in the Ordesa national park (Routes 122, 123)

South of Gavarnie, and sharing a common boundary with a section of the PNP, lies the Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido . Although the smallest of the three Pyrenean parks, it is the most visually stunning by virtue of the sheer grandeur of its vibrantly coloured walls and the drama of its three canyons: Ordesa, Añisclo and Escuaín. Ordesa was granted National Park status as long ago as 1918, and in 1997 the quality of its landscape – and that of the neighbouring Cirque de Gavarnie – was internationally recognised with inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Today the only concessions to tourism are a visitor centre, restaurant and car park at the end of a 4km stretch of road. Paths are plentiful, but the magnificent forests of beech, silver fir and pine are quite unspoiled, and the open meadows at the head of the valley display a host of alpine plants. Añisclo is a more recent addition (1982) to the Parque Nacional, and was included just in time to be saved from flooding for hydroelectric purposes. Less well known is the remote Escuaín gorge (Gargantas de Escuaín), accessed by a narrow 15km road that ends at the allbut deserted hamlet after which it is named, and whose population is

numbered in single figures. North of this the upper reaches of the Valle de Pineta above Bielsa are also contained within the park’s boundaries.

Lac d’Aumar, backed by Pic de Néouvielle in the heart of the Réserve Naturelle (Routes 93, 94)

The third National Park is also found on the Spanish slopes. The Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici lies in Catalonia, a magnificently wild stretch of country between the valleys of the Noguera Ribagorçana and the Noguera Pallaresa, with Val d’Aran to the north. Established in 1955 (extended in 1986 and again 10 years later) it is a region of numerous lakes – many of which have been dammed – sudden jagged peaks and small but idyllic cirques. In the Encantados will be found climbs of quality, yet the whole region abounds with opportunities for scrambles at varying degrees of difficulty, and walkers have a veritable wonderland to explore for days on end. Though not strictly a National Park, the establishment of the Parque Natural Posets-Maladeta in the 1990s put a girdle of protection around the two highest massifs. Its boundaries extend from the Valle de Gistau on the west to the Noguera Ribagorçana, with just one road intruding along the Valle del Ésera north of Benasque. West of the Ésera the Posets massif rewards walkers, climbers and trekkers with some wonderful wild country, while on the eastern side the Maladeta attracts on account of its bulk and superior height. Both cradle numerous tarns in their remote hidden corries, and display a remarkable alpine flora.

A small glacier pool at the foot of Aneto in the Parque Natural Posets-Maladeta (Chapter 18)

Vegetation

Known as the ‘Flower Garden of Europe’, at 2500m ice-sculpted rocks of the High Pyrenees are coloured with delicate alpines

With somewhere in the region of 180 plant species endemic to the Pyrenees there’s much to interest botanists. Not only plants normally associated with

lowland areas of Western Europe, but also representatives of other alpine regions, those usually found farther south in the Iberian Peninsular, and others with a more specific Mediterranean identity. Each has made its way into the mountains to join those Pyrenean endemics lodged there since successive Ice Ages isolated the range from its neighbouring land mass. Among the southern foothills aromatic plants such as lavender and rosemary prosper alongside stunted conifers and coarse grass, while the damp foothills of France are heavily wooded with forests of beech and fir. In the montane belt meadows correspond to the ‘alps’ of Switzerland with a luxurious growth of shrubs and smaller individual plants. Wild fruits such as strawberries, raspberries, bilberries and redcurrants add a bonus to the walker’s day, but it will be the true alpine flower varieties that are of major interest to the botanist.

Pulsatilla alpina appears in many parts of the Central Pyrenees

In springtime narcissi flood the hillsides with drifts of bloom, especially in the Val d’Aran. Gentians, crocus, orchids and anemones are found in several extravagant forms. In limestone crevices the beautiful Ramonda myconi survives to add a splash of violet-blue, and on limestone too may be seen the white pyramid spray of the Pyrenean saxifrage, or perhaps delicate bells of campanula. In summertime high meadows are coloured by the bright blue mountain iris, Iris xiphioides , and the tall, feathery plumes of the Pyrenean asphodel. Low-growing clumps of Daphne mezereon spread their sweet scent, and Arenaria tetraquetra form hard white cushions on exposed rocks. Both juniper and alpenrose spread across steep slopes, and amongst the screes pink clusters of the moss campion, Silene acaulis , break the monotony of naked rock. For more in-depth information on the flora of the Pyrenees, the field guide Flowers of South-West Europe by Oleg Polunin and B.E. Smythies, The Alpine Flowers of Britain and Europe by Christopher Grey-Wilson and Marjorie Blamey, and A.W. Taylor’s Wild Flowers of the Pyrenees are all worth consulting (see Appendix B ).

Wildlife

Native fauna is best represented by the izard, the chamois of the Pyrenees. Herds are to be found in many areas of the higher valleys or roaming the edge of the permanent snowline. No less shy than their cousins of the central European mountain ranges, in the less-frequented corners of the High Pyrenees it is sometimes possible to observe individual animals closely from the shelter of boulders. With the native Pyrenean brown bear having been hunted virtually to extinction, the controversial recent reintroduction of bears from eastern Europe has created resentment and suspicion among sheep farmers in some areas of the French Pyrenees, and one wonders what its fate will be. On the other hand, marmots are on the increase and the mouflon – a type of wild sheep introduced from Sardinia – is thriving in the eastern part of the range. Wild boar, pine marten and wildcats are said still to exist in remote regions. Both red and roe deer inhabit the heart of the range but, sadly, the ibex no longer exists here.

Marmots are found in most of the high valleys

Smaller creatures include the brightly coloured fire salamander, with its yellow and black patches; various lizards; and the very rare Pyrenean desman. This last-named is unknown elsewhere in Europe outside the Caucasus and is about as large as a rat, but with mole-like features, a long snout and webbed feet. An aquatic creature, it lives alongside clean, untainted streams, and can be found as high as 2200m. Ornithologists are attracted to several Pyrenean sites during the spring and autumn migrations when huge flights of birds funnel through selected passes. Eagles are represented by the golden, booted and Bonelli’s, while of the vulture family the Pyrenees boast the Egyptian, griffon and bearded – the latter also known as the lammergeier, with a 3m wingspan and orange breast feathers. Linnet, goldfinch, ptarmigan, capercaillie, black redstart, nightingale and hoopoe are also seen or heard in various locations. In Ordesa no less than 171 bird species have been recorded.

Getting There By air

The Pyrenees is most easily accessible via Pau and Toulouse. There are good rail connections from both towns as well as a bus service (www.andorrabybus.com ) linking Toulouse with Andorra. Barcelona is also worth considering for visitors to Andorra, as there are daily buses direct from the airport (www.andorrabybus.com ). Check the availability of low-cost fares and routings by Ryanair (www.ryanair.com ) and EasyJet (www.easyjet.com ), both of whom at the time of writing have useful regular services from the UK. By road

Road routes through France to all sections of the Pyrenees are straightforward. Most autoroutes are toll roads, but the cost of using them may well be deemed worthwhile for the time saved. Beware of exceeding the speed limit on other roads as radar traps operate everywhere and infringements usually result in an instant fine. Travel by car brings numerous advantages to those planning to base themselves in one or more areas, but is not so convenient if you plan to make a long cross-country journey such as tackling part of the Haute Randonée Pyrénéenne (HRP). Access by bus or rail comes into its own then. Note Roads are excessively busy on weekends between mid-July and midAugust. By rail

The celebrated Cascade d’Ars is reckoned by many to be the finest waterfall in the Pyrenees (Route 104)

From London to the Pyrenean railhead takes less than 24hrs, whereas the same distance by car will normally take almost twice as long. French trains are

fast and clean, and the SNCF has a range of discount fares; enquiries to Rail Europe, 178 Piccadilly, London W1V 0BA (www.raileurope.co.uk ). If planning a journey by rail, consider Eurostar from London’s St Pancras station to Paris (www.eurostar.com ). Rail links from Paris (Gare d’Austerlitz) to areas described in the following pages are given below. Note that the super-fast TGV also has a service (TGV Atlantique ) which is recommended. Though more expensive than the normal train – reservations are essential – both speed and comfort make it worth considering. In 6hrs the TGV runs from Paris (Montparnasse) to Hendaye, Pau, Lourdes, Tarbes and Toulouse. Note Details of access to specific locations described in this guide are given in the area information box at the start of each chapter.

Weather Every mountain area has its own climatic peculiarities, and the Pyrenees is no exception. Since the range has a southerly latitude summer days tend to be hot, particularly in the Spanish valleys where dry air rises from the plains. The northern slopes, on the other hand, are influenced by weather systems coming off the Atlantic, and as moist air sweeps inland rain clouds often reach valleys and mountains far to the east. The watershed crest acts as a barrier, with the southern flank lying in a minor rain shadow; as a result it’s often possible to reach a summit in sunshine on the Spanish side of the border, and gaze across a cloud-sea that fills the French valleys.

Statue of the Virgin at Le Cot in the heart of the Cirque de Troumouse (Route 80)

This, of course, is a generalisation, and you should not to be too complacent

when a day begins warm and cloudless, no matter which side of the border you happen to be based in. Between mid-June and August (again, a generalisation) thunderstorms can form rapidly when the hot, dry air of the Ebro rises in the upper valleys to mix with cooler airstreams spilling over from the north. These storms come with little advance warning and may be quite violent. As they form, summits and exposed ridges should be vacated quickly. It is best, therefore, to plan the day’s activity with the possibility of storms in mind. In May the weather tends to become more settled towards the end of the month. June can be one of the nicest months, although the last of winter’s snow may still be lying in the upper valleys and on some of the higher passes. July and August can be almost uncomfortably hot for long walks or climbs on south-facing routes, while September is often settled and with more acceptable temperatures for trekking with a big sack. Autumn comes in the second half of October, with mist and rain and sometimes snow. WEATHER FORECASTS Regional weather forecasts are often displayed at tourist offices, but for a mountain forecast via MétéoFrance montagne Tel 08 92 68 04 04. The number of the Spanish meteorological institute is Tel 906 36 53 25. For Aragón try Tel 906 36 53 22. For Andorra Tel 848852.

Equipment The choice of equipment to take depends on the activity planned. On most of the ascents described in this guide no more gear will be required than is normally used on fell walks at home. On those routes where additional items of equipment are recommended – for example ice axe or crampons – a note will be found at the start of the relevant route description. A rope is not always necessary (although one ought to be packed as insurance against an unexpected difficulty or in the event of need for psychological aid). Safety helmets are advised on certain routes where loose stones are to be found. The ordinary route on Pic du Midi d’Ossau is a classic case in point: there are one or two gullies to be climbed that hold no particular difficulty, but because of the popularity of the mountain and amount of loose rock a very real danger exists of receiving a stone on the head dislodged by parties above. Rock climbers will know what is required in the way of hardware, again depending on the scale of their commitment. Bivouac gear will only be needed on the most severe climbs. For multi-day treks and summer ascents of the higher peaks you will probably be comfortable wearing light clothing, but should carry warm, windproof and waterproof gear as the weather can change rapidly. Take plenty of high-factor suncream, sunglasses and lip salve, plus a brimmed hat to shield the sun. Emergency food, headtorch and spare batteries should be carried in

the rucksack as well as compass, map of the area and whistle. A first aid kit should always be carried.

On the south peak of the Agulles d’Amitges in the Encantados region (Route 158)

Since the Pyrenees offers one of the finest wilderness camping areas in Europe, a lightweight tent will be of great value. Sleeping bags adequate for the vagaries of a British summer in the mountains should be sufficient. Should the plan be to spend your entire holiday in the mountains (as opposed to travelling from region to region by car) you are strongly advised to carry sufficient fuel for all your cooking, otherwise it may well be necessary to travel great distances in order to restock. Do not cook on open fires, avoid fouling water supplies, and leave no trace of your night’s stay in any wild campspot.

Refuges, Gîtes and Camping Facilities on offer at Pyrenean refuges vary greatly. Some are well equipped and reasonably spacious, with guardians in summer residence (usually mid-

June to late September) offering a complete meals service. Others may be little more than four walls and a roof where, if you plan to spend a night, you’ll need both a sleeping bag and sleeping mat, and be self-sufficient with food and cooking gear. A few of the older CAF buildings manage still to convey some of the atmosphere of the pioneers who first used them a century or so ago (the manned Refuge de Bayssellance near the Vignemale is a good example), yet one or two of the more recent huts erected on both sides of the frontier offer a greater degree of comfort. Information on individual refuges in the areas covered by this guide will be found under specific regional details. For details of refuges, gîtes, hotels and campsites, go to www.pyrenees-pireneus.com or try www.pyreneesrefuges.com .

Refuge de Bayssellance, base for climbs on the Vignemale (Routes 54–61)

In the lower mountain areas north of the frontier a chain of gîtes d’étape has been established. Not to be confused with Gîtes de France (holiday homes) gîtes d’étape are similar to private youth hostels and often located on farms or in quiet villages. Every gîte should have facilities for self-catering, but many offer a meals service too. Dormitory accommodation is the norm, but some also have private bedrooms. Showers are provided. Most gîtes d’étape are indicated on large-scale IGN maps.

Wild camping in the Pyrenees is restricted in certain areas, but a single night’s pitch is usually acceptable

Wherever possible it is advisable to telephone a hut or gîte to book your bed in advance. This is almost essential at the height of the season (mid-July to end August). Access to dormitories is often restricted until early evening, and rucksacks are not allowed in them. Standard sleeping accommodation is a long communal bunk with mattresses laid side by side. Blankets and pillows are provided, but a sleeping bag liner will be very useful, as in most cases a ‘camping’ quality sleeping bag will be too warm for summer use. There’s no segregation of the sexes in hut dormitories. Payment is usually settled with the guardian on the morning you leave, but if you plan to make an early start, arrange to pay your bill the evening before. It can be frustrating to wait an hour or more after you want to leave because the guardian is still sound asleep in his room! Members of mountain clubs that enjoy reciprocal rights will receive discounts on overnights, but not on meals provided. Members of the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can buy a special reciprocal rights card which is valid in CAF and most Spanish club huts. Huts with a guardian in summer residence normally have a basic winter room or rooms that remain open out of season, with bunks and a fireplace or stove available for use. Many foothill villages have organised campsites , often with good facilities. In the mountains most French refuges (and some in Spain) have a designated aire de bivouac nearby where it is permissible to pitch a small tent for a single overnight stay, on the understanding that it is not erected until after 7pm and taken down before 9am. A similar rule covers ‘wild camping’ in the Spanish Pyrenees; a single night’s pitch is tolerated, but multi-night camping is forbidden. In the French National Park (PNP) overnight camping is only allowed at least an hour’s walk from the nearest road; in the Ordesa park camping is

not permitted below 2100m. All camping is strictly forbidden in the Aigüestortes National Park.

Maps Sketch maps in this book are not intended to be used for route-finding. You will need to obtain proper maps at a scale of at least 1:50,000, of which there are many available. The 1:50,000 series published by Rando Éditions in conjunction with IGN provides excellent coverage, and will be adequate for most routes included in this guide. The series goes under the general title of Carte de Randonnées and covers the Pyrenees from coast to coast in 11 sheets (six for the region described in this book). Although primarily intended for the French side of the mountains, there is sufficient cross-border overlapping to enable walkers (if not climbers) to do without Spanish maps for all but a few isolated regions; but do study the requirements listed. Details of specific sheets needed for each area are given at the start of individual chapters. Each Carte de Randonnées has major paths marked in red; GR10 and the HRP are highlighted, as are mountain huts, gîtes d’étape and official campsites.

Lac de Barroude lies below the impressive Barroude Wall (Routes 81, 82)

For greater detail IGN produce their TOP 25 maps at 1:25,000 scale. As with the Carte de Randonnées series these have major trails, huts and so on highlighted in red. Details of these maps are also given at the start of relevant chapters. Editorial Alpina publish a series of maps for walkers and climbers active on the Spanish side of the frontier. Whilst they fall short of standards of accuracy assumed by the IGN survey, improvements are slowly being made – buy the latest editions where possible. Most sheets are at a scale of 1:25,000, but some are 1:40,000, with contours at 20m intervals. Note Be warned: not all

routes shown as paths on the maps are evident on the ground, and may be little more than wishful thinking on behalf of the cartographer. Each Pyrenean sheet is accompanied by a booklet (in Castilian or Catalan) which gives useful information about walking and climbing routes, accommodation and so on. Editorial Pirineo, another Spanish cartographic company based in Huesca, has a series of six maps at a scale of 1:40,000 covering the south side of the watershed between Pic d’Anie and the Maladeta massif. Some of the accompanying booklets have English versions, which are worth seeking out. Andorra is partly covered by Carte de Randonnées sheet 7, and by a dedicated sheet published by Editorial Alpina at 1:40,000. However, the official Andorran survey published by M.I. Govern has maps at 1:25,000 and 1:50,000, which show most main walking routes and the position of refuges. For stockists in Britain, see Appendix A .

Viadós, below the west flank of Pico de Posets (Routes 130, 131)

Emergency Services In certain respects the Pyrenees offers climbers and long-distance trekkers a greater degree of commitment than will be experienced in many other European ranges, and the question of rescue in the event of an accident can be of particular importance. In some areas the possibility of rescue depends solely on the proximity of other climbers or walkers capable of rendering assistance. In the PNP it is often a fairly speedy process to call up trained rescue services, for most (if not all) the popular huts are in radio contact with the gendarmerie and a highly efficient, helicopter-aided service can be set in action within minutes of the alarm being raised. On the other hand, some areas are so isolated that even the mildest of accidents can have serious consequences if the party involved is incapable of providing adequate self-help.

Off-season ascents in even the summer-popular Maladeta region, to name but one, should be undertaken with an awareness of the serious nature of the expedition and of the possible result arising from an accident. In valleys where there are no huts and few visitors outside aid may be impossible. The moral is clear: know the capabilities of your party and climb within them.

The view west from Pic de Coma Pedrosa, Andorra’s highest summit (Route 168)

The international distress signal is six blasts per minute on a whistle, or six torch flashes after dark, followed by a minute’s pause, then repeat until a reply is received. The reply is three blasts or flashes followed by a minute’s silence. The rescue service, where it exists, can be extremely expensive to call out, and should only be called upon where absolutely necessary. Rescue insurance is advisable. In the event of an accident, use your mobile phone (if you have one and can get a signal) and telephone one of the following: France: Tel 112 or Ariège: Tel 05 61 64 22 58 Haute-Garonne: Tel 05 61 89 31 31 Hautes-Pyrénées: Tel 05 62 92 41 41 Pyrénées Atlantiques: Tel 05 59 10 02 50 Pyrénées Orientales: Tel 04 68 30 30 57 Spain: Aragon: Tel 112

Catalonia: Tel 085 Navarre: Tel 112 Val d’Aran: Tel 73 64 00 04 Andorra: Tel 112 Explain that an accident has happened, state the condition of the victim, and give an accurate location of where the victim is to be found. Should you not have a mobile phone and no manned huts are within reach, make for the nearest inhabited valley with a telephone. This may be a very long way from the scene of the accident, in which case give the name of the place you’re phoning from and await the arrival of the rescue team. By means of an accurately marked map show where the accident has occurred and give what details you can.

Using the Guide The aim of this guide is to introduce the walker and climber to one of Europe’s finest mountain ranges. By its very nature it has to be selective, for to cover all the possibilities the Pyrenees has to offer would require a volume far too bulky to be of practical use. Areas have been selected to provide as wide a choice of country as possible, with the principal peaks highlighted with descriptive routes. Regions are described geographically, travelling from west to east: first on the French side of the border, then the Spanish. Andorra is included at the end of the Spanish section. Walks have been graded into three categories to give an idea of the difficulty or strenuous nature of each outing. Such grading is not an exact science, and each of these categories covers a fairly wide spectrum. The grading has been made in good faith and should be viewed as a rough guide only. WALK GRADINGS Grade 1 Mostly short outings on gently graded paths or tracks, with little altitude gain. Grade 2 Moderate walking, mostly on clear footpaths with a reasonable amount of height gain. Walkers should be adequately shod and equipped. Grade 3 More strenuous routes on sometimes rough or unclear paths. Some modest scrambling may be involved in rare instances. A good head for heights may be called for. There will be steep ascents and descents, and fairly long distances involved. Walkers and trekkers should be fit and well equipped.

Times quoted are approximations only and make no allowances for rest stops or photographic delays, but are based on the actual walking time. Ascents selected for this edition are mostly of limited difficulty, but a moderately difficult outing is not necessarily an uninteresting one, and if

approached with an open mind the unique character of the Pyrenees will reveal itself. In describing ascent routes the international (French) adjectival system has been adopted for grading overall expeditions. Individual rock pitches, where their inclusion dictates a specific standard, are bracketed as Roman numerals. The latter are shown below with the corresponding UK grading system. Distances are quoted in kilometres (km) and heights in metres (m), and are based on the recommended map for the area where possible. Certain errors are judged to have crept in on some maps, particularly those for the Spanish mountains, and in such instances heights have been obtained from other sources deemed reliable at the time. Maps for each area are shown at the start of individual chapters. Map suppliers are listed in Appendix A . Having made every effort to check that the information in this guidebook is correct at the time of going to press, I am acutely aware that changes will inevitably occur throughout its time in print – paths may be re-routed, rockfall make some details redundant, landmarks disappear, facilities improve or worsen. Should you discover any such changes that need correcting, I would very much appreciate a brief note with details to enable me to focus efforts when I begin research for the next edition. A postcard, letter or e-mail addressed to me, Kev Reynolds, via the publisher (Cicerone Press Ltd, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe, Cumbria LA7 7PY – e-mail: [email protected]) will be gratefully received, and acknowledged if you include your address. ASCENTS International F PD AD D TD ED

facile (Easy) peu difficile (Moderately difficult) assez difficile (Fairly difficult) difficile (Difficult) très difficile (Very difficult) extrément difficile (Extremely difficult)

Rock-climbing grades I Easy and Moderate II Moderately difficult and Difficult III Very difficult IV Hard very difficult to Medium severe V Hard severe to Mild very severe VI Very severe to Hard very severe

ABBREVIATIONS CAF CEC EA

Club Alpin Français Centre Excursionista de Catalunya Editorial Alpina

EDF FAM FEM FFM GR10 GR11 HRP IGN PNP RE TCF hrs km m mins

Electricité de France Fédéracion Aragonesa de Montanismo Fédéracion Espanola de Montanismo Fédération Française de la Montagne Grande Randonnée 10 Gran Recorrido 11 Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne Institut Géographique National Parc National des Pyrénées Rando Éditions Touring Club de France hours kilometres metres minutes

INFORMATION AT A GLANCE Currency: The Euro (€) is used throughout the Pyrenees. Formalities: Visas are not required by nationals of any EU country, or of the USA, Canada, Australia or New Zealand who plan to be in France or Spain for less than 90 days. All other nationalities should check the visa requirement. Health precautions: At the time of going to press no major health concerns needing immunisation affect visitors to the Pyrenees. However, sunstroke and sunburn are a distinct possibility in summer unless adequate precautions are taken. If collecting water from streams, it is advisable to either boil it before drinking, or use purification tablets or tincture of iodine if there’s a possibility of livestock grazing above the source. Water from huts, gîtes and springs should be perfectly safe for drinking. In the event of your needing professional medical assistance, make sure you carry a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) which replaces the old Form E111, and which entitles you to reduced and sometimes free medical treatment. Application forms are available from post offices. The EHIC is not an adequate substitute for proper medical cover, or for mountain rescue. Insurance companies specialising in mountain activities are listed in Appendix A . International dialling codes: When phoning Andorra from the UK the code is 00376; France is 0033; Spain is 0034. To call the UK from abroad the code is 0044. After dialling the international code, ignore the initial 0 of the area code that follows. Languages: French, Castilian Spanish and Catalan. English may be understood in tourist offices, and in a few resorts that cater to British tour companies, but do not expect conversational English everywhere – or indeed, anywhere in the Pyrenees. Learn a few important phrases in the language of the country you’re visiting before you go, and you’ll get by. Websites: A number of useful websites are worth visiting in advance of a trip to the area. For a wide range of subjects and/or general information, try the following: www.rando-pyrenees.net www.cimes-pyrenees.net www.pyrenees-passion.info www.webpyrenees.com www.pyreneesonline.fr www.multimania.com/pyrenees www.pyrenees-pireneus.com www.pyrenees-refuges.com

www.epyrenees.com

THE FRENCH PYRENEES Cirque de Lescun to the Carlit Massif

Numerous lakes and small pools add a sparkle to the Néouvielle region (Routes 83–94)

1 CIRQUE DE LESCUN On the edge of the Basque country, the Vallée d’Aspe is the most westerly of the High Pyrenees, a green, fertile region of deciduous forest and pasture where some of the last remaining European brown bears are said still to roam. The head of the valley is topped by a lovely wall of limestone peaks that slopes down to the road pass of Col du Somport, but the finest mountain scenery – and the best walks and climbs – will be found by taking a side road to the west, where the so-called Cirque de Lescun encloses a lush pastoral basin, overlooked by the village from which it takes its name. Considered by many to be the most attractive in the French Pyrenees, the simple stone-walled village of Lescun commands an unforgettable panorama that makes the best possible introduction to the range. Facing south from a sloping shelf of hillside, it directs your attention across a grid of meadows to dark woodlands and a backdrop of abrupt grey mountains that crowd the horizon. These peaks are not high; although they rise above 2000m, only Pic d’Anie attains the significance of 2500m. Their attraction lies in their shape and form, and in the contrast they provide between rich flowery meadow and apparently barren rock and scree. Though their walls may be steep and challenging, many summits can be gained by the modest scrambler. As for the walker, there are hanging valleys, small lakes, pastures and passes, and easy ridges linking one neighbouring peak with another. Each of these rewards with pleasures of a very special kind.

Lescun has a number of excellent walks and climbs

The most prominent mountains hereabouts include the imposing Pic d’Anie (2504m), reached by a day’s walk west from Lescun, and the nearby Pics

Billare that rise immediately above the village and stand some way forward of the Franco/Spanish border. Almost completely hidden from view, the twin Aiguilles d’Ansabère also stand slightly forward of that border at the head of a secondary cirque to the southwest of Lescun’s houses. Reminiscent of the Dolomites, these great limestone pinnacles hold some tremendous climbs for the dedicated rock specialist, but the neighbouring 2377m Pic d’Ansabère has a path almost all the way to its summit. Taking the border towards the Col du Somport, several peaks above 2200m mark the curving wall of the Cirque d’Aspe, and also carry the boundary of the Parc National des Pyrénées. South of Pic d’Aillary, and separated from it by the Spanish valley of the Rio Aragón Subordán, Pico de Visaurin (Bisaurin, 2668m) is the highest of the Aspe group, and is reached by way of a path from Sansanet on the northern side of the Somport. ACCESS AND INFORMATION Location

In France, on the west flank of the Vallée d’Aspe, northwest of Col du Somport. Via N134, travel south from Oloron-Ste-Marie. About 6km upstream of Bedous take a minor road heading west to Lescun. By train: from Pau to Oloron-Ste-Marie, then SNCF bus to Access Pont de Lescun near Cette-Eygun. This bus service continues as far as Canfranc in Spain. No public transport to Lescun itself. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 3 ‘Béarn’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 Series no: 1547OT ‘Ossau, Maps Vallée d’Aspe’ 1:25,000 Bases Lescun (900m), Lhers (951m) Information Office du Tourisme, Place Sarraillé, Bedous (05 59 34 57 57) www.tourisme-aspe.com Bases

LESCUN (900m) has limited facilities, but these include a post office, and a small grocery next to the 2-star Hotel du Pic d’Anie (Tel 05 59 34 71 54). Dormitory accommodation can be had opposite the hotel in the Refuge du Pic d’Anie gîte (enquire at the hotel). Dormitory accommodation is also available at the Maison de la Montagne (Tel 05 59 34 79 14 [email protected]), and at the Gîte du Lauzart which is annexed to the excellent campsite (Camping du Lauzart) a little over 1km southwest of the village (Tel 05 59 34 51 77). A walk of about 1½hrs upvalley leads to the Refuge de Labérouat – see below. Lescun has limited parking space by the post office, and the classic view of the village with the Cirque de Lescun beyond it will be found by following a narrow road behind the church. This curves to the right to a few houses, then a footpath continues, from which you gain a panoramic view. LHERS (951m) is a scattered farming hamlet located on a plateau southeast of Lescun. At the southern end of the hamlet, close to the route of GR10, a gîte d’étape provides accommodation for 18, and possibilities for camping. Booking is essential Tel 05 59 34 75 39.

Other Accommodation and Facilities

ETSAUT (597m) nestles in the bed of the Vallée d’Aspe, about 5.5km south of Pont de Lescun. It has a small foodstore and a post office, the 2-star Hotel des Pyrénées (Tel 05 59 34 88 62) which houses the only restaurant, and two gîtes d’étape , both of which are open all year: Auberge La Garbure is just off the village square (Tel 05 59 34 88 98 www.garbure.net ), while the Maison de l’Ours (Tel 05 59 34 86 38 [email protected]) is found opposite the hotel. The disused railway station contains a Maison du Parc National (open daily in July and August) whose exhibits feature the European brown bear. Several other gîtes d’étape exist in and around the Vallée d’Aspe, notable ones being at BEDOUS , OSSE-EN-ASPE , ACCOUS and just below the COL du SOMPORT . The little village of BORCE , which huddles on a terrace on the west flank of the valley overlooking Etsaut, has two gîtes . The only bank and ATM will be found in Bedous, and the nearest town with a railway station is OLORON-STE-MARIE (branch line to Pau). Refuges and Cabanes

Of those listed below, only Refuge d’Arlet is a true mountain refuge offering food and dormitory accommodation to all-comers. The three cabanes provide rudimentary shelter (Ansabère being rather more user-friendly than Ardinet or Pédain), but could be welcome in an emergency. Wild camping nearby might be considered a better prospect. REFUGE DE LABÉROUAT (1442m) also known as the Centre de Montagne, this 80-place building is situated on the GR10 about 1½hrs walk above Lescun. Primarily used for educational groups, it also has a 15-place refuge (Tel 05 59 34 71 67) – reservations essential. CABANE D’ARDINET (1570m) is small and very basic, with room for about five people, but with water supply. On the route of the GR10 and the HRP upvalley from Labérouat. Note that Cabane du Cap de la Baigt nearby is usually taken over by shepherds in summer.

Cabane d’Ardinet lies on the approach to Pic d’Anie (Route 2)

CABANE DE PÉDAIN (1533m) is a very basic unmanned shelter located in the steep but dramatic Cirque d’Ansabère below the aiguilles. With poor mattresses for six, there’s also a wood-burning stove, table and chairs. Water must be collected from a nearby stream, and you’ll need to take your own food and cooking equipment. CABANE D’ANSABÈRE (1560m) stands below the Col d’Pétragème in the Cirque d’Ansabère, and has very simple accommodation for trekkers with two bunk beds upstairs and a water supply outside. Take food and cooking equipment. The cabane (there are two others used by shepherds) is owned by the Commune de Lescun. REFUGE D’ARLET (2000m) has a grassy site above the Arlet tarn almost on the frontier ridge on the route of the HRP. Built by the National Park authorities to accommodate 43, there’s a guardian from mid-June to midSeptember, when meals may be provided (Tel 05 59 36 00 99) www.pyreneesrefuges.com . Out of season the winter quarters can sleep 10.

ROUTE 1

Lescun (900m) – Refuge de Labérouat (1442m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Lescun (900m) 4km 542m 1 1–1½hrs

This walk follows the route of GR10 all the way from Lescun, and is waymarked with red-white paint flashes.

The walk begins in the heart of the village near the Maison de la Montagne, and climbs above it on a stony path between fields heading roughly northwest, soon joining the narrow road which serves the refuge. There’s ample parking space just before reaching the refuge, should you prefer to drive.

Follow the road to the right, but when it forks take the left branch. Soon after it bends note a waymark sending you into the right-hand meadow. The way progresses through a tree-lined gully, then up to a farm track from which you gain fine views of the Cirque de Lescun, the Pics Billare and Pic d’Anie.

Refuge de Labérouat, reached by a walk of 1–1½hrs from Lescun

The track brings you above a farm where you cut off to the right on a narrow path slanting uphill and onto another track above a second farm. Come onto the road once more at a hairpin bend. About 30m up the road break left on the

continuing waymarked path which soon takes you across an open boggy patch, through a belt of woodland, then emerges to a broad grass path slanting uphill to the right. After passing through another belt of woodland come to a view of Pic Oueillarisse directly ahead. The path eventually makes a couple of zigzags before spilling onto the road for the last time. Turn left. The refuge is reached in another 200m or so (refreshments usually available). An orientation table names the high points in an extensive view. To return to Lescun by the same route, allow 45mins.

ROUTE 2

Lescun (900m) – Pic d’Anie (2504m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Lescun (900m) 10km 1604m F 5hrs

A straightforward but rewarding ascent. Note the considerable height gain from Lescun, and the length of time taken to get there and back again. Add on time for rests, and you’ll see that you face a fairly long and tiring day.

PIC D’ANIE (2504M), ROUTE 2 Significant as the first of the High Pyrenees, Pic d’Anie requires little more than a long walk to reach its summit by the standard route. With a dusting of winter snow the mountain looks especially impressive from Lescun; in fact it appears much more majestic from afar than it does on close inspection, where it is revealed as a chaos of scree and limestone pits. The summit panorama scans the Basque country spreading to the west. Below, to the northwest, lies the entrance to the Gouffre de la Pierre St-Martin, one of the world’s most extensive underground caverns.

Pic d’Anie (2504m), first of the High Pyrenees

From Lescun follow Route 1 as far as Refuge de Labérouat, and continue

beyond it to pass through woodland beneath the strange organ-pipe rocks of the Orgues de Camplong. About 1hr 15mins beyond Labérouat along the GR10 you pass below a simple hut, the Cabane d’Ardinet (1570m), which has a water supply and spaces for about five people. The path climbs on and reaches a second hut, Cabane du Cap de la Baigt (1680m), with room for about eight. The GR10 now strikes north towards Pas d’Azuns, Pas de l’Osque and Arette la Pierre St-Martin, but the path to Pic d’Anie swings southwest, rising between Pic du Soum Couy and Pic de Countende towards Col des Anies (2030m) where the way is marked on a large boulder. Pic d’Anie stands to the south of the col and is reached in about 1½hrs from it, the route crossing an impressive karst landscape waymarked with small cairns and paint flashes. Traversing the scree-ridden north face, the way curves round its west face to make the final climb from the southwest. Allow at least 3½–4hrs for a return to Lescun by the same route.

ROUTE 3

Lescun (Parking Nabia, 1040m) – Lac de Lhurs (1691m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Lescun (Parking Nabia, 1040m) 5km 651m 3 3hrs

Lac de Lhurs is hidden below the Table des Trois Rois in a small cirque shown on the map as Montagne de Lhurs southwest of Lescun. This walk to it is quite strenuous, but it makes for an entertaining day out.

To get to the start follow signs from Lescun marked ‘Lhurs (Lac)’. These take you onto one of several minor lanes cutting through the pastures. Soon after crossing a sub-valley you come to a sign pointing to the right along a track marked ‘Parking Nabia 100m’. The continuing lane goes to Pont de Masousa and Ansabère. Just beyond the parking space bear left where the track forks. As it makes a long loop you can make a short cut by taking a broad grassy path left up through a meadow to regain the track a little higher. Remain on the track now as it makes a scenic contour of hillside overlooking the great pastureland bowl of the Cirque de Lescun. When it begins a short downward slope, note a small parking space and continue for about 150m along the track to a major junction. Turn right, uphill, and follow this obvious route, bearing left at the top of the steep section, looking out for waymarks. About 1hr 20mins from the start you come to the woodland edge near an abrupt rock wall. Here the path zigzags up to the head of a track (1455m) where you turn left. A stony path now contours immediately below a section of rock wall, and at the far end it curves right and resumes uphill. After passing through scrub cross an open avalanche runnel, on the far side of which you gaze into a ravine that supports the unseen Lac de Lhurs. The path dips into the ravine entrance, crosses to its left-hand side, then zigzags up to gain a high grassy shoulder. Looking back you can see the unmistakable Pic du Midi d’Ossau to the southeast. From the shoulder the path (now broken into several braidings) cuts along the steep left-hand wall of the ravine, crosses sections of limestone pavement and brings you to the lake’s

outflow stream. Cross on partly submerged rocks and follow the stream to the Lac de Lhurs. The lake is surrounded by pastures topped by screes and mountain peaks. A small unmanned cabane is seen at the far end. Most notable of the walling peaks is the tilted, semi-pointed summit of the Table des Trois Rois on which it is said the kings of Navarre, Aragón and Béarn met to agree the frontiers of their respective territories. Allow at least 2hrs to return by the same route.

ROUTE 4

Lescun (900m) – Cabane de Pédain (1533m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Lescun (900m) 9km 633m 2–3 3hrs

This walk leads to a steeply tilted basin below the Aiguilles d’Ansabère, those dramatic limestone pinnacles that are a major feature of the district. It’s an easy route at first along a country lane, through woodland and into a pastureland bowl. But then the gradient increases and the way becomes faint on the climb to a rough cabane . Built of stone and concrete, the very simple Cabane de Pédain is only recommended as an emergency shelter, although climbers with ambitions for hard routes on the aiguilles may be prepared to accept its uncompromisingly basic facilities and use it as a base. There are some great views of those pinnacles from the route to it, and from the path of Route 5 which makes a worthwhile link with the Cabane d’Ansabère, thus enabling a partial alternative return to be made.

Note If you have your own transport it’s possible to drive as far as either Pont de Masousa (960m) or Pont Lamary (1171m) where there are several parking spaces, thus reducing the approach by 2hrs or 1½hrs respectively. Note The forest track between the two bridges is not paved, and might be problematic for vehicles with low suspension. Leave Lescun by the road which branches southwest just below the village and goes to the campsite on the south side of the Gave de Lescun. Continue beyond the campsite entrance along the surfaced lane following signs to ‘Masousa-Ansabère’. This leads to the unpaved parking area by Pont de Masousa (45mins walking time from Camping du Lauzart). Immediately before the parking area bear left on a forest track rising through woodland. Remaining well above the true right (south) bank of the Gave d’Ansabère follow this track all the way to Pont Lamary where there are a few parking spaces (about 30mins from Pont de Masousa).

The Aiguilles d’Ansabère, seen above Cabane de Pédain

Cross the simple concrete bridge and follow a clear path which takes you through more light woodland as it gains height, with the Ansabère needles now luring you on. At the top of a rise a large pastureland clearing is reached. This is a lovely mountain bowl with streams meandering through, dark woods on the far side and the Aiguilles d’Ansabère rising dramatically above.

Leave the path and wander off to the right towards a small, low shepherd’s hut seen a short distance away. Beyond the hut a faint trace of a path is guided by a few cairns along the lower edge of beechwoods on the right-hand side of a (dry in summer) streambed. Out of the woods the way zigzags up a steep grass slope with cairns and traces of path. About two-thirds of the way up this slope enter woods on the far side, still gaining height but less steeply now. Emerge from the woods and continue up the slope with splendid views of the aiguilles above to the left, and the Table des Trois Rois ahead. More small cairns indicate the way in lieu of a proper path. It crosses another dry streambed on the left where a path appears, after which you angle half-left up a rib of grass before joining a much clearer path (used by Route 5). Cabane de Pédain can now be seen ahead, and is soon reached. If returning by the same route allow 2–2½hrs to Lescun; see Route 5 for a recommended alternative.

ROUTE 5

Cabane de Pédain (1533m) – Cabane d’Ansabère (1560m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Cabane de Pédain (1533m) 2km 27m 2 30mins

This linking route is recommended not only for the quality of the views but also for variety. If it is your intention to make a direct return to Lescun, it’s not necessary to go quite as far as the Cabane d’Ansabère, for the Lescun path is reached a few minutes below it.

Descend from the hut for about 2mins to reach the well-defined path which contours roughly southwest then south round the hillside. The gradient is much gentler than that of the route of approach (Route 4 ), but after turning a spur the way begins to climb, and shortly after (about 10mins from the hut) it brings you to a stream with a stunning view up to the aiguilles. By climbing a few metres beside the stream you’ll find a delightful little rocky area where gathering streams have formed a small pool backed by beech trees, alpine flowers and great views. Beyond the stream the path contours again through beechwoods, then winds gently downhill, coming out of the trees onto a crossing path below the Cabanes d’Ansabère. To reach these, wander up the path for a few mins, or to return to Lescun turn left and descend to Pont Lamary in 20–30mins.

ROUTE 6

Lescun (900m) – Cabane d’Ansabère (1560m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Lescun (900m) 9km 660m 2–3 3hrs

Sometimes used by trekkers tackling the HRP, Cabane d’Ansabère has very limited accommodation, but it is the only shelter on the very long stage between Lescun and Refuge d’Arlet (see Route 9 ). The HRP now has an optional variation, but the cabane is occasionally used by trekkers passing this way, and by climbers tackling routes on the Petite Aiguille d’Ansabère, which soars overhead. There are three cabanes in all, the others being used by shepherds. Whether you have plans to spend a night there (you’ll need to carry your own food and cooking equipment), the approach walk has plenty of appeal. It’s also temptingly close to Pic d’Ansabère, whose summit can be reached by walkers with a modicum of scrambling experience (see Route 7 ).

Follow Route 4 directions as far as the pastureland basin at the top of the rise above Pont Lamary – but bear in mind that it’s possible to drive as far as either Pont de Masousa or Lamary itself. If walking all the way from Lescun, it will take about 2hrs 20mins to gain the pastureland bowl. Descend to the stream, cross it and climb steeply through the woods beyond. The path is obvious and it leads directly to the cabanes , which are located at the foot of screes fanning from the base of the aiguilles.

The view east from Pic d’Ansabère, flanked by the Grande Aiguille (Route 7)

ROUTE 7

Cabane d’Ansabère (1560m) – Pic d’Ansabère (2377m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Cabane d’Ansabère (1560m) 2.5km 817m F 2½hrs

No technical climbing is involved in this ascent, despite the dramatic nature of its location. It’s an energetic walker’s route in wild and rugged terrain. Only be tempted in settled conditions.

PIC D’ANSABÈRE (2377M), ROUTE 7 Although routes on the Ansabère pinnacles are too extreme to fall within the scope of this guide, their near neighbour, Pic d’Ansabère, offers an interesting, albeit easy ascent for the ordinary scrambler via Col de Pétragème, with some dramatic views to heighten the day.

Lying below and to the left of the Petite Aiguille, which soars a short distance above to the west, the cleft of Col de Pétragème is clearly seen from the cabanes . The path to it winds away from the shepherd’s huts veering right and, rising among boulders and scree, gains the col without difficulty, but only after a sudden, steep pull which passes directly beneath the aiguille that rears above the walker’s shoulder. Col de Pétragème (2082m) provides an appalling visual contrast. In place of the splendid drama witnessed only moments before, you gaze south over a dreary scene of decaying mountains that fade into the haze of distance. Pass through the col – which forms the Franco–Spanish border (frontier stone 273) – and bear right on a cairned path that picks its way between boulders, climbing steep and rough terrain to reach the bald summit. From the summit a grandstand view is gained of the Grande Aiguille directly in front. Beyond and below its precipitous wall, pastures and woodlands roll off to the northern foothills, while out to the east Pic du Midi d’Ossau offers its unmistakable signature. It’s a tremendous situation, made even more spectacular should you be fortunate enough to see climbers at work on the nearby aiguilles. CLIMBING ON THE AIGUILLES D’ANSABÈRE

Experienced climbers intent on tackling some of the more advanced routes

here should consult the French-language guide, Passages Pyrénéens by Rainier Munsch, Christian Ravier and Rémi Thivel (Éditions du Pin à Crochets, 1999) which describes a number of the hardest climbs. There are several extreme routes; the original (1923) on the comparatively short West Face of the Grande Aiguille is now graded TD- (V); the 300m East Face classic put up by de Bellefon, Dufourmantelle, Despiau and Jean Ravier in 1957 is TD (V+, III, 6a+); while the Dièdre Butolli on the same East Face is an ED- climb (V+, A1, 6a/6b+) dating from 1965. There are numerous others of varying degrees of length and difficulty that would reward the attention of climbers with the necessary expertise. The Petite Aiguille and the Petite Pic d’Ansabère add to the interest, with the Spigolo Sud on the Petite Aiguille being one of the local test pieces (ED, V, 6c/7a/7b), and there’s no doubt that activists with sufficient time, ambition and stamina could spend many worthwhile weeks concentrating their efforts on this one small corner of the Pyrenees. Les Pyrenees – les 100 plus belles courses by Patrice de Bellefon gives two routes on the Grande, and one on the Petite Aiguille to illustrate the quality of climbing to be found here, but the only hard route details seen in English appeared in the ACG publication Alpine Climbing in 1971. A copy of this is retained in the Alpine Club Library in London, while a brief history of climbing in the Cirque d’Ansabère, and a précis of routes available, will be found in The Pyrenees , also published by Cicerone Press (2010). All there is to know about the Ansabère pinnacles can be found on an excellent website (in French) by the Thomas brothers. Go to www.tourisme-aspe.com and follow the link from Outdoor Activities/Climbing.

ROUTE 8

Lescun (Pont Lamary, 1170m) – Lac d’Ansabère (1859m) – Ibón de Acherito (1875m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Lescun (Pont Lamary, 1170m) 5km 862m 157m 3 3–3½hrs

Two very different mountain tarns, separated by an unnamed col on the frontier ridge, provide highlights of this walk. There are other highlights too, including views of the Aiguilles d’Ansabère and the charm of a Spanish valley stretching one’s gaze to far blue sierras. It will be a longish day out, for you’ll need about 2hrs for the return to Pont Lamary, plus time spent enjoying the views. If you walk all the way from Lescun (as opposed to driving to Pont Lamary) add another 2½–3hrs for the round-trip (about 8hrs in all).

To reach Pont Lamary see Route 4 above.

Note the comment in regard to low-slung vehicles

Follow Route 6 to the Cabane d’Ansabère, then take the path which goes between the second and third cabanes heading south to cross pastureland, rising steadily and growing clearer until the little tarn of Lac d’Ansabère is reached, about 30mins from the cabanes . There’s a fine view from here across the head of the Cirque d’Ansabère to the aiguilles. on the track between Pont de Masousa and Pont Lamary.

Leaving the tarn continue to climb steeply up the hillside towards the frontier ridge, which you gain at a point near spot height 2032m. Bear left along the narrow ridge a short distance, then make a descending traverse southward over steep grass slopes, taking great care (especially should the grass be wet). Aim towards a jutting spur beyond which lies the lake of Ibón de Acherito. To reach the lake a steep descent is guided by red-white paint flashes down to its outflow at the southern end. The tarn is set in a superb amphitheatre of cliffs, while views along the valley of the Rio Aragón Subordán (Valle de Echo) extend an atmosphere of calm.

ROUTE 9

Cabane d’Ansabère (1560m) – Col de Burcq (2063m) – Refuge d’Arlet (2000m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Cabane d’Ansabère (1560m) 14km 915m 475m 3 7½hrs

This walk forms a section of the Pyrenean High Route (HRP), although there’s a more direct, and popular, variante from Lescun to the Arlet refuge which goes via the Labrénère valley – see below. Despite the length of this route, it’s a very fine walk, but it makes for a hard day of extensive views over much remote, uninhabited country. It is not a route to consider lightly, nor one to tackle in inclement weather; good visibility and settled conditions are essential. Carry food and plenty of liquids, and do not leave the Acherito tarn without refilling your water bottle.

Ibón de Acherito lies just below the frontier crest on the Spanish flank (Routes 8, 9, 10)

Follow Route 8 as far as Ibón de Acherito (1875m, 1hr 45mins). Cross the stream flowing from the southern end of the tarn and wander along the path heading southeastward, soon losing height but still remaining a considerable way above the lovely Valle de Echo, and ignoring an alternative path

descending to it. At a point about 1620m (30–45mins from the lake) a wellvegetated area with clumps of box is reached. Do not lose any more height, but instead take the narrow path heading vaguely northeast to climb through a combe, or shallow ‘valley’. Above this, broad grassy hillsides rise towards with the frontier ridge, enlivened by rocky crests. The path disappears, but crossing these pastures heading east you will see Pic de Burcq (2105m) flanked by cols on either side. To the left is Col de Pau (1942m) with its frontier stone; to the right is Col de Burcq (2063m). Choose Col de Burcq to join a clear path on the French side (4–4½hrs), which you follow to the right, with a distant view of Pic du Midi d’Ossau. The way leads round the head of the Labadie valley first among rocks, then grass, on the ridge itself. At Col de la Cuarde (1970m) cut across the flank of Pic Rouge to reach Col de Saoubathou (1949m) seen to the east. Once through this col (6hrs 15mins) the path rises and falls in varying degrees on a southeasterly course, until at last a sharp series of twists brings you onto a grassy plateau with Refuge d’Arlet set above its lake on the right. For an interesting view south into Spain, wander above the hut heading west to reach Col d’Arlet (2095m) on the frontier ridge in about 15mins.

Note For routes departing Refuge d’Arlet, see below. Refuge d’Arlet is owned by the PNP. With 43 dormitory places, it is manned from mid-June until mid-September when meals are usually provided (Tel 05 59 36 00 99). Out of season the winter room can accommodate 10. OTHER APPROACHES TO REFUGE D’ARLET

The HRP variation recommended by Ton Joosten in Pyrenean Haute Route (Cicerone Press, 2004) goes from Lescun to the Arlet refuge through the charming Vallée du Labrénère headed by Col de Pau. To reach this valley take the lane below Lescun which snakes up to Camping du Lauzart. Shortly after passing the campsite come to a minor crossroads and keep ahead. The road leads into the valley of the Labrénère stream where the paving ends at a small parking area. It’s 5hrs to the hut from here. Along the continuing track enter the PNP about 1hr 45mins from Lescun. In another 2hrs gain Col de Pau on the frontier ridge. Remaining on the French side, turn left across the flank of Pic de Burcq, and from Col de Burcq the way to Refuge d’Arlet is the same as that described in Route 9 , reaching the hut in about 6hrs 45mins after leaving Lescun. A shorter approach to the Arlet refuge (4½hrs) begins in the scattered hamlet of Lhers (950m), which lies southeast of Lescun and is visited by the GR10. As with the Lescun route outlined above, it’s possible to drive part of the way, thus reducing the walk by more than 1hr. Leave Lhers heading south,

passing the 18th-century village chapel on your left. The road continues beyond the last houses and about 1hr later enters the PNP in the Labadie valley . Remain on the track, and in another 45mins reach Cabane de Caillau (1450m). Col de Saoubathou lies near a junction of ridges above to the southeast and is reached by a steeply climbing shepherd’s path in 1½hrs from the cabane . Cross the col and follow the path described in Route 9 for a further 1hr to reach Refuge d’Arlet. OPTIONS FOR DEPARTING REFUGE D’ARLET

Leaving Arlet return to Col de Saoubathou, then cut along the east flank of the ridge that divides the valleys of Labadie and Belonce, with views of the distant Pic du Midi d’Ossau beyond the Vallée d’Aspe. Regain the ridge crest at Col de Souperet (1920m), then make the 250m ascent of Pic de Labigouer and continue northeastward along the crest as far as Col de Barrancq. Either bear left and follow GR10 waymarks to Lescun , or turn right and descend along the GR10 to Borce or Etsaut (7–7½hrs) in the Vallée d’Aspe. Trekkers planning to descend to the Vallée d’Aspe will find the shortest and most direct route (3½hrs) leads to the Forges d’Abel below the Somport road tunnel’s north entrance. Follow the HRP round the Cirque de Banasse, cross Col de Lapachouaou (1891m), then bear southeast towards an obvious spur. On the south side descend into a minor glen, cross a stream below the shepherd’s hut of Cabane Grosse, climb over Col Plâtrière (unmarked on the map) and then wander down into the Espélunguère forest where a road/track descends to Pla d’Espélunguère. Keep on this road all the way to Les Forges d’Abel. There’s no acommodation here, so either hitch downvalley to Etsaut (hotels and gîtes ) or up to Col du Somport (gîte d’étape ). The main HRP departing Arlet makes its way to Candanchú on the Spanish side of the Somport, on a 6½hr stage which veers away from the previously described route at the Pla d’Espélungère (2hrs 45mins). After crossing a stream, the path climbs through forest to the Pas de l’Échelle on the border, then skirts the east shore of Ibón d’Estaëns. Joining the route of GR11, head east and cross back into France, and some time later return to Spain via Collado de Causiat a short distance from Candanchú (refugios ).

ROUTE 10

Cirque de Lescun and the Frontier Ridge

Start/Finish Grade Time Accommodation

Lescun 3 4 days Cabane, mountain hut and gîte d’étape

This short counter-clockwise circuit explores some of the finest pastoral landscapes of the western Pyrenees, as well as an interesting section of the frontier ridge. The first half follows a variante of the Haute Route (HRP) as far as Refuge d’Arlet, then drops into a glacier-carved valley that is one of the tributaries of the Aspe, before returning to Lescun.

Day 1 A short (3hr) walk among pastureland and forest takes this initial stage from Lescun to the simple Cabane d’Ansabère , set below the extraordinary pinnacles of the Aiguilles d’Ansabère, as described in Route 6 . Accommodation is basic, and trekkers planning to spend a night in the cabane must take food and cooking equipment with them. There’s a decent water supply outside. Some trekkers prefer to pitch a tent nearby, but camping here can be disturbed by flocks of sheep and their sheepdogs for much of the summer.

The frontier ridge near Col de Pau (Routes 9, 10)

Day 2 A long (7–7½hr) trek takes the tour out of the Ansabère cirque and across the mountains onto the Spanish flank above the lovely Ibón de

Acherito. It then journeys along the southern hillside for a while before returning to the French side at Col de Burcq, then continues to Refuge d’Arlet via Col de Saoubathou (this complete stage described above as Route 9 ). Day 3 On this third easy, but very pleasant, day’s walking, retrace your steps towards Col de Saoubathou, but soon break away to follow an alternative PNP trail cutting away east then north to descend into the valley of the Gave de Belonce. Towards the northern end of this wooded valley come onto a narrow road and follow it down to the medieval village of Borce . Here there are two gîtes d’étape , both open throughout the year: the 18-place Gîte Communal (Tel 05 59 34 86 40), and the smaller Gîte de Groupe de l’Hôpital de StJacques (Tel 05 59 34 88 99). Day 4 The final stage follows the course of the waymarked GR10 westward. Immediately out of Borce, the climb begins that will lead to the wooded 1601m Col de Barrancq. Once across this, GR10 winds down to the southern end of Lhers, then by way of tracks, footpaths and a minor road continues on to Lescun . MOVING ON: CIRQUE DE LESCUN TO THE PIC DU MIDI REGION

Making their lengthy coast-to-coast crossings of the Pyrenees, both the GR10 and Haute Route (HRP) leave the Cirque de Lescun heading roughly eastward to the Pic du Midi district (described in the next chapter). However, out of Lescun the two routes part company, for while GR10 remains on the French slope and takes two days to reach Refuge d’Ayous via Etsaut in the Vallée d’Aspe, the Haute Route takes rather longer. The first stage of the HRP goes as far as Refuge d’Arlet, then makes a brief loop into Spain to make its second overnight halt at Candanchú near the Col du Somport, before moving on across the mountains towards Pic du Midi d’Ossau. CLIMBING IN THE CIRQUE DE LESCUN

While the Aiguilles d’Ansabère understandably win the plaudits here (see box in Route 7), there are plenty of other opportunities for the rock climber based in or around Lescun. First must be mentioned the Orgues de Camplong , a long orderly line of crags spreading northwestward from Pic Oueillarisse above Refuge de Labérouat. With routes of 250–300m there are some fine test pieces, including the eight-pitch Haine pour Aime (300m, ED, V/A1/6a+), and the 270m Voie de l’Y (TD, V+/6a). Further upvalley, the southeast-facing Orges d’Azun west of Pas d’Azun are less extensive than the Camplong crags, but have – among others – the 250m Jompi Keupon (TD, V+/6a). On the 2238m Petit Pic Billare several worthwhile routes have been created. The original 700m East Face put up by the Ravier twins with Bouchet and Grenier in 1966 is a case in point, while on the neighbouring Grand Pic

Billare (2309m) the 700m Couloir Oriental makes a fine winter route, which usually comes into condition between January and March. Meanwhile, the 300m East Face of the Table des Trois Rois overlooking the little Lac de Lhurs is graded ED- (V+/6a/6c+). Further east, on the west flank of the Vallon de Belonce above the village of Borce, the 1774m Pene d’Udapet – which enjoys a tremendous view of the Cirque de Lescun – boasts several equipped routes of 300–350m in the TD/ED range. Climbers interested in all or any of these should consult Passages Pyrénéens by Rainier Munsch, Christian Ravier and Rémi Thivel (Éditions du Pin à Crochets, 1999).

ROUTE 11

Lescun to Refuge d’Ayous via Etsaut

Start Finish Distance Grade Time

Lescun Refuge d’Ayous 29km 3 2 days

As a way of enticing the non-motorised walker and climber to make the cross-country link from the Cirque de Lescun to the Pic du Midi region, this route is an outline of the GR10’s recommended 2-day trek.

Day 1 Waymarked red-white throughout, GR10 leaves Lescun on the road which crosses the Gave de Lescun below the village, then winds up the opposite slope towards Camping du Lauzart. Shortly after passing the campsite entrance, continue ahead at a minor crossroads. As the road twists uphill, waymarked short cuts can be taken, then a combination of farm tracks, footpaths and a narrow lane bring you to a road junction south of Lhers , about 1½hrs from Lescun. The local gîte d’étape is situated a short distance from this junction. Turn left along the road to pass some buildings, then fork right on a track, but after just a few paces take a footpath on the right. Rising across the hillside (steeply in places) eventually come onto yet another track. Once again, the way progresses via footpaths, tracks and a rough forest road to gain the wooded Col de Barrancq (1601m, 3hrs), where 200m to the southwest a fine view of the Vallée d’Aspe can be had.

The limestone Cirque d’Aspe closes the head of the valley near Col de Somport

At first the descent is steep, but the gradient eases past a ruined hut; continue down to Cabane d’Udapet, reached about 20mins from the col. The way now heads northwest, then north, but 15mins or so later turns southeast on a path twisting down to a stream, beyond which you come to a road. Turn left for a few mins, then leave the road where waymarks direct you onto a short-cut footpath leading into Borce (650m) about 5hrs from Lescun. The village has gîte accommodation, a shop and bar. Walk through the village and down to Etsaut (597m) on the right bank of the Gave d’Aspe. Etsaut has a hotel, two gîtes d’étape , a grocery and a post office (see details at the start of this chapter). Day 2 South of Etsaut walk upvalley along the Somport road for almost 2km to reach Pont de Cebers (637m), where the former main road crosses the river. An old road keeps to the east bank, and you follow this for about 800m, then join a path rising through pastures. Curving eastward round a rocky spur, it brings you to the celebrated Chemin de la Mâture – a spectacular pathway hacked out of a near-vertical cliff walling a ravine. Although it may cause concern to anyone suffering vertigo, the path should be broad enough to ignore the steep drop on the right, but caution is often required to avoid the ropes of abseiling climbers that cross the pathway. The Chemin de la Mâture was created in the 18th century by convicts pressed into service on behalf of Louis XIV’s navy, which needed a supply of timber from the Bois du Pacq for ships’ masts. Huge tree trunks were dragged along the newly created chemin before being floated downriver to the coast.

The celebrated path of the Chemin de la Mâture is used by walkers moving on from the Cirque de Lescun to the Pic du Midi region

Flowers in the ancient village of Borce, overlooking the Vallée d’Aspe

Beyond this the path contours, then climbs on, and about 50mins from the chemin reaches the shepherd’s cabane of Borde de Passette, whose conversion to a trekkers’ hut is long awaited. The valley curves southeastward, and you

reach the PNP boundary at the Cabane de la Baigt de Sencours (1560m, 4hrs from Etsaut). Above the cabane the valley narrows, enclosed by steepening slopes that form an amphitheatre. Heading south, first on the right, then the left bank of the stream, you then zigzag up to Col de Hourquette de Larry (2055m), 30mins from the PNP boundary. A little under 10mins later you come onto Col d’Ayous (2185m) from which point you have the first magnificent view of Pic du Midi standing proud to the east. A clear, well-trodden trail descends for 20mins directly to Refuge d’Ayous, a PNP hut overlooking Lac Gentau, one of the Lacs d’Ayous. For refuge details see the following chapter: Pic du Midi d’Ossau.

2 PIC DU MIDI D’OSSAU Despite its lack of glacier or any permanent snowfield, Pic du Midi d’Ossau has all the ingredients of a classical mountain. It stands alone, isolated from its nearest neighbours; a magnificent peak defended by great rock walls that rise abruptly from flower-strewn pastures and beautiful tarns. Even for the Pyrenees its altitude is modest, but its highly individual outline and the impressive way it dominates the landscape invest it with a stature far greater than that of many higher mountains, and make it a natural symbol of the Pyrenees. Around it lie valleys of immense appeal, not to mention the numerous tarns and small pools that glisten like diamonds in a tiara of peaks, all linked by footpaths that make this one of the most popular districts of all. A large part is protected within the Parc National des Pyrénées. Jean-Pierre – as the Pic du Midi is affectionately known by enthusiasts – is among the most satisfying of all Pyrenean mountains. In its voie normale will be found an interesting yet easy scramble. The surrounding valleys provide numerous walks of great variety and beauty, while for those with more energetic and acrobatic ambitions the various buttresses, gullies and faces hold climbs of practically every degree of difficulty. Seen in profile it appears as a great rust-coloured peak with two main summits, the Grand Pic (2884m) and Petit Pic (2812m), separated by the deep cleft of La Fourche (2705m). Two further summits (Pointe d’Aragon and Pointe Jean Santé) overlook the bowl of the South Cirque, but these are not evident except from limited viewpoints. The southern shoulder is crossed by the stony Col de Peyreget (2300m), the eastern by the grassy saddle of Col de Suzon (from where the voie normale begins), while the northern slopes descend to forests that cast shade into the lower valleys.

Sunrise on Pic du Midi d’Ossau

As the rock climber’s peak par excellence , it is understandable that Pic du Midi should attract so much attention today. What is more surprising, however, is that it received its first attempt as long ago as the 16th century. In the spring of 1552 François de Foix (the Count de Candale and Bishop of Aire), organised an expedition to determine its height. Equipped with ladders, grapnels, ‘climbing irons and certain hooked sticks’ the Count and his entourage climbed high enough to see clouds beneath them, but the ‘cold and rarefied air… caused them sensations of giddiness which made them fall down in their weakness’. The attempt failed. Nevertheless, in about 1787 the geographers Reboul and Vidal from the Academy of Toulouse encouraged an unnamed shepherd from the Vallée d’Aspe to climb the mountain and erect a cairn on the summit. Ten years later Guillaume Delfau and another shepherd named Mathieu made the second ascent, a climb unusual for the time in that it was made for purely sporting reasons and without any scientific pretension. But whether your ambitions lie in climbing, wandering the glorious valleys or simply dreaming beside one of the gleaming tarns, Pic du Midi d’Ossau has a way of demanding a return – again and again. ACCESS AND INFORMATION Location Access

In France, east of Vallée d’Aspe and north of the Col du Pourtalet. By train from Pau to Oloron-Ste-Marie and CITRAM bus from there to Laruns. By road head south of Pau to Laruns and Gabas in the Vallée d’Ossau where the valley forks: southwest to Bious-Artigues, southeast to Col du Pourtalet. Both lead to paths of access. There’s a

seasonal bus service from Laruns to Gabas, Bious-Artigues and Col du Pourtalet. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 3 ‘Béarn’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 series no: 1547OT ‘Ossau, Maps Vallée d’Aspe’ 1:25,000 Bases Laruns (530m), Gabas (1027m) Office du Tourisme, Place de la Mairie, 6440 Laruns (Tel 05 59 05 31 41, www.ossauInformation pyrenees.com)

Bases LARUNS (530m) lies about 15km north of the mountain at the foot of the Col d’Aubisque. A lively and modestly attractive village, it has a few hotels and a 48-place gîte d’étape opposite the disused railway station (l’Embaradère Tel 05 59 05 41 88 www.gite-embaradere.com ). There are several campsites, tourist information (www.ossau-pyrenees.com ), a post office, shops, restaurants and a Bureau des Guides on the Place de la Mairie (Tel 05 59 05 33 04). However, it’s really too far from Pic du Midi to serve as a useful base unless you have your own transport. GABAS (1027m) is a small farming community about 12km upvalley from Laruns, close to the junction of the route to Bious-Artigues and that of the main Pourtalet road. Because of its proximity to Pic du Midi, and its siting on the GR10, accommodation is always in great demand in summer. Popular with trekkers is the Chalet-Refuge de Gabas, a 50-place refuge owned by the CAF, open all year (Tel 05 59 05 33 14 www.caf-gabas.vallee-ossau.com ). There are two small hotels: the Hotel-Restaurant Chez Vignau (Tel 05 59 05 34 06 www.hotelvignau.fr ) and Hotel-Restaurant Le Biscau (Tel 05 59 05 31 37, www.hotel-vallee-ossau-biscau.fr ), and a Maison du Parc with plenty of information for walkers.

Refuges REFUGE d’AYOUS (1960m) is owned by the PNP, and is manned from midJune to mid-September when meals may be provided. Located west of Pic du Midi, it has 50 places and a terrific outlook across Lac Gentau. Being on the route of both GR10 and the HRP, and popular with walkers making a tour of the mountain, it is invariably busy during the summer months. For reservations Tel 05 59 05 37 00 (www.parc-pyrenees.com ). REFUGE de POMBIE (2032m) is the climber’s hut situated below the great South Face of Pic du Midi. Owned by the CAF, it is manned from June to the end of September with a full meals service, and weekends in May and October. With 48 dorm places, there’s also a tented annexe for 16 (Tel 05 59 05 31 78 http://refugedepombie.ffcam.fr ).

ROUTE 12

Lac de Bious-Artigues (1415m) – Refuge d’Ayous (1960m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Lac de Bious-Artigues (1415m) 5km 545m 2 2hrs

A very fine approach to a mountain hut set in an idyllic landscape of glistening lakes, and with wonderful views of Pic du Midi. This walk is worth tackling even if you have no intention of spending a night at the refuge.

Pic du Midi, seen from the shores of Lac d’Ayous (Routes 12, 18, 20)

From the roadhead at Lac de Bious-Artigues (4km from Gabas) walk ahead along the broad path leading southwest, with Pic du Midi above you to the left. The way rises into woodland and emerges soon after on the edge of the lovely Bious pastures. When the path forks near a footbridge over the stream, bear right to climb among trees. Coming out of the forest you gain magnificent views to Pic du Midi again. About 1½hrs from the road you should reach the first of the Lacs d’Ayous, known as Lac Roumassot (1845m). A ribbon of stream can be seen pouring from the second (unseen) tarn, and the continuing path climbs beside it. This second tarn, Lac du Miey, is the smallest of the three. The path does not stray to it but continues heading a little north of west, soon

to reach Lac Gentau and the Refuge d’Ayous with its classic view of Pic du Midi mirrored in the water.

ROUTE 13

Lac de Bious-Artigues (1415m) – Col de Suzon (2127m) – Refuge de Pombie (2032m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Lac de Bious-Artigues (1415m) 6km 712m 95m 2 3hrs

Coming from the north, this is the most direct route to the popular Pombie refuge, and it leads through the lovely green Magnabaigt valley. For other approach routes see Routes 14 , 15 and 16 .

A clear signed path at the northern corner of the lakeside car park heads east into forest. After climbing for a short distance it comes out of the open levels of Col Long de Magnabaigt (1650m), and bears south into the pleasant Magnabaigt glen. Wandering through this valley Pic du Midi comes into view, but appears quite different from its generally accepted outline. At the upper level of the valley the path climbs to Col de Suzon, and the Pombie hut is then seen standing below to the south. The way to it traverses below the massive East Face of the mountain, twists among the chaotic boulders of the Grande Raillère, and arrives beside the refuge.

ROUTE 14

Lac de Bious-Artigues (1415m) – Col de Peyreget (2300m) – Refuge de Pombie (2032m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Lac de Bious-Artigues (1415m) 7.5km 885m 268m 3 3½hrs

This is a particularly fine walk which serves as part of the Tour of Pic du Midi. Scenically there are numerous contrasts, and underfoot too there is a diversity of terrain; one moment you’re bouncing over soft turf, the next you’re boulder-hopping or scuffing your boots on scree. There are leafy paths and meandering streams, small tarns and long views, the stark inner reaches of the mountain to peer into, and far views of hinted valleys and peaks rinsed blue with distance.

From the end of the road at Bious-Artigues walk upvalley, heading south with the lake to your right. The broad path takes you through woodlands and emerges at the northern end of the Bious pastures, close-cropped and level as a Surrey lawn. Cross the Pont de Bious footbridge about 40mins from the roadhead, and wander across these pastures, veering left at the far end to climb steeply among trees, then with views down to the shepherd’s hut of Cabane de Peyreget off to the right. Another path joins ours from the direction of the cabane . A little over 2hrs from the roadhead come to the tarn of Lac de Peyreget. Leave the path and go northeastward, led by cairns to cross an area of huge rocks that have long been deposited here by Pic du Midi. Cairns lead the way up to Col de Peyreget, an obvious saddle in the south-dipping ridge of the mountain. Descend to the east by a clear path that takes you past a couple of tarns, and brings you in ½hr to Lac de Pombie and the hut standing just above it.

The south cirque of Pic du Midi is clearly seen when crossing the Col de Peyreget

ROUTE 15

Ossau Valley (Caillou de Soques, 1400m) – Refuge de Pombie (2032m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Ossau Valley (Caillou de Soques, 1400m) 2.5km 632m 2 2hrs

Caillou de Soques is a simple shelter located beside the Pourtalet road opposite some large boulders about 9km south of Gabas, at the point where the HRP crosses the valley on the stage that leads from Refuge de Pombie to Refuge d’Arrémoulit on the edge of the Balaïtous region. Cars may be left here, pulled off the road beside the boulders.

Go down to the Gave de Brousset, the stream flowing through the valley, and cross on a footbridge. The path now climbs into woods above the left bank. When you eventually leave the trees, another footbridge takes you over the Pombie stream at a junction of trails. Bear left alongside the stream for a short distance, then cross it and soon after enter a hanging valley. Rising steadily, with Pic du Midi growing in stature ahead, you come to Refuge de Pombie about 2hrs from the road.

Refuge de Pombie lies above a small lake at the foot of Pic du Midi

ROUTE 16

Col du Pourtalet (Anéou Pastures, 1750m) – Refuge de Pombie (2032m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Col du Pourtalet (Anéou Pastures, 1750m) 3km 380m 98m 2 1½hrs

Coming from the north, this is the shortest and easiest route of approach to the Pombie hut. Throughout the summer buses cross the Pourtalet from Laruns; if you have your own vehicle it may be left at a small parking area in the Anéou pastureland, about 1.5km north of the col. Turn off the main Pourtalet road at a point marked ‘Cabane de l’Araille’ on the map. There is a small hut on the east of the road with a short track leading down to the stream opposite (PNP notice board).

A well-trodden path leaves the parking area by way of a bridge across the Gave de Brousset, and rises easily over broad rolling pastures towards a grassy ridge to the north. The path is obvious and cannot be missed, and once you top the ridge just west of Soum de Pombie the full impact of Pic du Midi confronts you. The hut is seen below.

Lac de Pombie nestles at the foot of Pic du Midi d’Ossau

ROUTE 17

Refuge de Pombie (2032m) – Pic du Midi d’Ossau (2884m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Refuge de Pombie (2032m) 3km 853m F+ (voie normale with 2 short pitches of III) 3–3½hrs Safety helmets advised

Although this is the easiest route to the summit of the mountain, it is not without interest, being a varied ascent that involves moderate scrambling. Helmets are recommended on account of the very loose rock encountered and the fact that the way leads through gullies where stones could be dislodged by parties above.

PIC DU MIDI D’OSSAU (2884M), ROUTE 17 Pic du Midi is such an iconic peak that it makes a natural focus of attention and an obvious goal to climb. Whilst there are numerous routes on it, only the voie normale is given here, for all others require a certain degree of expertise on rock. For a run-down of some of the more challenging climbs, see the box after Route 17 below.

Head north from the Pombie hut through the boulder barricade of the Grande Raillère and walk up to the grassy spine linking Pic du Midi with Pic Saoubiste. At Col de Suzon turn left and follow the ridge to the foot of the mountain proper. Climb a short steep gully, then a slab to the left in which there are a number of drilled holes with several movable pegs, which may be utilised to ease the ascent. Take care on the descent as these can lead to problems if not placed correctly. A clear path then leads round to the right, gaining height to the foot of an open chimney with a broken slab to its right. Climb the slab, which may be easier than the chimney, and continue up a line of cairns. Having almost reached the North Face a cairn indicates the start of a long sloping groove to the left of a broken gully. Beware stonefall . Climb the groove without difficulty (one or two pegs, but these will probably not be required) and emerge at the top of the gully where a large metal post advertises the correct route of descent.

The Lacs d’Ayous capture your attention when gazing from the summit of Pic du Midi

The ascent now continues via a path winding half-left from the top of the gully, and leads up the dome of the mountain across a region of rough boulders and screes until the very edge of the South Cirque is reached. Follow this ridge round to the saddle between the two summits of the mountain. The highest point, Pointe d’Espagne, is gained by way of a short ridge broken by two steep gullies. The summit is flat and characterless, which comes as a surprise after the many superb aspects of the mountain seen from below. But the views, especially to the east where the Balaïtous dominates a sea of peaks, are splendid. Westward you gaze over the Lacs d’Ayous and far-off to the Aiguilles d’Ansabère. Care should be exercised on the descent, and only climbers with a clear knowledge of the mountain and considerable experience of ropework, should contemplate any way down other than by the route of ascent. Note When descending the gullies take every precaution against dislodging stones onto those below. CLIMBING ON PIC DU MIDI D’OSSAU

There are probably more routes on Pic du Midi than any other mountain within the Pyrenees, for it has been the focus of activity from those at the sharp end of the sport ever since climbing began here. At every stage of development Pic du Midi has been an obvious arena, and the momentum continues to this day. The rock is andesite, and there’s plenty of natural protection. Climbs range from the classic North Face of the Grand Pic pioneered in 1896 by Henri Brulle and graded AD, to the 650m winter route of Guignol’s Band on the Southeast Face (TD+) put up in February 1997. There’s a fierce 600m line on the WestNorthweast Face of the Pointe de France achieved in July 1960 that goes at TD+ (V+/6a+/6b), and there are reasonably short, agile lines, as well as long, demanding routes on the big faces. The complete traverse of the four main peaks is a major attraction. Many of the classic routes have been climbed solo, and the mountain receives plenty of attention in winter, especially the awesome goulottes that offer a serious challenge to activists fortunate enough to be around when conditions are at their best. In full view of the Pombie hut on the south side of the mountain, the great Pombie Wall is laced with numerous lines, some of which count among the most challenging in the district. The east flank is less developed, the northern side has a sense of remoteness to it, while the west and northwest flanks of the Petit Pic in particular hold some bold routes up to 500m long. Derek L. Walker’s Rock Climbs in the Pyrenees (Cicerone Press, 1990), describing nearly 30 routes on the mountain, is recommended to all Englishspeaking climbers drawn to the area, while Passages Pyénéens offers 46 hard routes for those with a reasonable command of the French language.

ROUTE 18

Ayous Lakes Circuit

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Lac de Bious-Artigues 12km 680m 680m 2 4½–5hrs

West of Pic du Midi the high country beneath Pic d’Ayous, Pic Hourquette and Pic des Moines contains several idyllic tarns: the three Lacs d’Ayous, Lac Bersau, the smaller Lac Casterau and a number of pools. There are others, but they lie beyond this particular circuit. It’s a tour that has plenty to commend it. For a start, it’s not as strenuous as the full Tour of Pic du Midi (Route 19 ), but it offers plenty of variety and some of the finest mountain views in all the Pyrenees. The time quoted for the walk is exclusive of halts, but as there will be numerous places where you’ll want to relax simply to absorb the views, a full day must be set aside for it. Refreshments are available at Refuge d’Ayous.

Leave Lac de Bious-Artigues heading southwest and follow directions given in Route 14 as far as Refuge d’Ayous (2hrs). From the hut take the path leading southwest up rock-strewn slopes, passing a number of pools, to reach Lac Bersau trapped in a wild corner of the mountains. The path continues along the east shore and rises to a minor, unnamed col behind Pic Casterau. Descend the long loops of path to a rough pastureland and Lac Casterau. The trail now bears northeast for a surprise view of Pic du Midi, and descends steeply in zigzags. The Cabanes de la Hosse are seen off to the right, and soon after you come to the Bious stream (3½hrs). A path bears left to follow the stream down into the flat Bious pastures, and across these you rejoin the woodland path that takes you back to Lac de Bious-Artigues.

ROUTE 19

Tour of Pic du Midi d’Ossau

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Lac de Bious-Artigues 13km 885m 885m 3 5½hrs

The Tour of Pic du Midi is one of the great walks of the Pyrenees, either in its shortened version, as here, or in its full extended length as given below in Route 20 . The unique character of the mountain is revealed on the walk with the various faces and ridges being seen from a choice of angles. In addition some fine valleys are explored and three widely differing cols crossed. Having walked this tour several times in both directions, I recommend an anticlockwise circuit (as described here), or clockwise if starting from the Pombie refuge. Paths are mostly clear and well used, so there should be no difficulty with route-finding should you decide to tackle it in the reverse direction to that given here.

The walk begins at the roadhead at Bious-Artigues, heads southwest beyond the end of the lake and arrives at the Bious pastures. From the roadhead to Refuge de Pombie follow directions for Route 14 . This takes you across the pastures, up to Lac de Peyreget and then steeply to Col de Peyreget from where you can see into the great rocky South Cirque of the mountain. On the descent to Refuge de Pombie (3½hrs) a splendid view to the east across the depths of the Ossau valley shows the massive Balaïtous (see Chapter 3 ). From Refuge de Pombie head north across the boulder tip of the Grande Raillère and continue on the path to Col de Suzon. Once over this the way leads down into the green Magnabaigt glen. Towards its northern end the path veers left, crosses Col Long de Magnabaigt, and descends through forest to the car park at Lac de Bious-Artigues.

The lovely Magnabaigt valley stretches below Col de Suzon (Routes 13, 19, 20)

ROUTE 20

Extended Tour of Pic du Midi

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Lac de Bious-Artigues 20km 1416m 1416m 3 8–8½hrs (2 days recommended)

Although it’s possible for fit walkers to complete this route in a single day, it would be a pity to do so. The tour is far too good to rush, for there are magnificent views to enjoy, tarns to relax by, cols to gaze from, alternative corners to explore. Better to take two days and enjoy it at a leisurely pace. My recommendation would be to set out for an afternoon stroll from Bious-Artigues to Refuge d’Ayous (2hrs) and spend a night there (book a place in advance by phone – see details above). Rise early to capture the magic of sunrise on Pic du Midi’s shoulder, which is seen clearly from the hut, and spend the rest of Day 2 wandering the remainder of the circuit.

The walk from Bious-Artigues to Refuge d’Ayous has already been described above (Route 12 ): an easy 2hr approach with plenty of fine views to photograph. Leaving the hut take the path which rises southwestward and brings you to Lac Bersau (2078m). Continue on the path skirting the eastern shore and cross a minor col below Pic Casterau. The path descends easily to Lac Casterau, then more steeply to the Bious stream which flows from a small valley on your right. Cross the stream, below which an indented ‘valley’ cuts back to the south near the Cabane de Cap de Pount (1½hrs from Refuge d’Ayous). Climb the grassy gully which rises above the cabane . Where it begins to level out bear southeast to gain another pastureland overseen by Cabane de Peyreget. There are lovely views of Pic du Midi from here. Heading east on a mostly level stretch, join a major path, bear right and rise to Lac de Peyreget. Now head northeast following a line of cairns across an area of huge rocks on the way to Col de Peyreget. Descend on the eastern side without difficulty to reach Refuge de Pombie. For the final stage of the walk over Col de Suzon and through the Magnabaigt glen, follow directions given in Route 19 . VARIATIONS

One recommended variation leaves the main route at Lac de Peyreget and heads off to the right to skirt round Pic Peyreget, crossing COL DE L’IOU (2194m) and the grassy saddle west of Soum de Pombie, to rejoin the described route at Refuge de Pombie. From Col de Peyreget, head to the right and make an uncomplicated 25min ascent of PIC PEYREGET (2487m) for a magnificent view of Pic du Midi’s four peaks.

3 BALAÏTOUS In the heart of one of the wildest regions of the whole chain, the Balaïtous is a big, bulky mountain protected by extensive granite ridges and crowding lesser peaks which complicate all routes of approach. As an example of this difficulty of access Charles Packe – who made the second ascent in 1862 – spent so many days searching for a way to penetrate the barricade of ridges that he finally withdrew without even discovering the right mountain. Two years later, when he at last managed to force an ascent with the guide Jean-Pierre Gaspard, it was only after he had spent seven days wandering ‘on and almost round the mountain’. Whether you intend to emulate Packe in climbing this enigmatic 3145m peak, or are drawn there to explore its surrounding valleys and passes, the uncompromising nature of the district will almost certainly add to its charm. The first ascent of the Balaïtous was achieved in 1825 by the military surveyors Peytier and Hossard, but details of their route remained largely unknown for many years. Even Packe – that most enquiring of Pyrenean historians and exploratory pioneers – was unaware that it had previously been climbed until he arrived on the summit to find a cairn already there.

Shepherds bring their sheep down through Plan de Labassa at the end of summer (Route 27)

The attractions of the mountain lie in its height (it’s the most westerly of the 3000m peaks), and in the very savagery of its surroundings. The normal route by way of the West Ridge involves a complicated approach through rugged, austere scenery, followed by an interesting scramble up broken gullies to the bald summit, whose views are vast indeed. From the north a short but very steep glacier leads to great slabs that rise to the lofty summit ridge, while the long, gendarme-crusted ridges themselves are among the mountain’s most

notable features. The valleys that spread from it are part of a complex topography. The Ossau valley and its southern counterpart Valle de Tena (which lies beyond the Col du Pourtalet) effectively mark the outer western limit of the massif’s range of influence. Yet neither of these has direct access with Balaïtous or its immediate neighbours, so tributaries have to be sought. On the French slope this is the Arrious glen; on the Spanish the long and very lovely valley of the Aguas Limpias leads to the foot of the mountain. The Vallée d’Arrens projects roughly northward out of the heart of the massif, and offers the easiest approach. It’s possible to drive as far as the Plan d’Aste on the edge of the National Park, leaving a comparatively short walk to Refuge de Larribet, from which the Balaïtous is often climbed. Outlying peaks of the massif also push northward, with short, steep, glacier-carved valleys hanging from them. These rightly suggest that they too could be worth exploring, while to the east the Vallée du Marcadau and the Spanish valley of the Rio Caldares are effectively separated from the massif by high cols that may be crossed in good conditions by strong trekkers. ACCESS AND INFORMATION East of the Ossau valley and south of Gourette and the Eaux-Bonnes Massif, the Balaïtous straddles the Franco–Spanish border. From the west access begins from the Ossau valley north of Col du Pourtalet; from the north via Arrens-Marsous and the Vallée d’Arrens (Val d’Azun); from the east by way of the Access Vallée du Marcadau and Col de Cambales. The approach from Spain is via Sallent de Gallego and the valley of the Aguas Limpias. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 3 ‘Béarn’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 series no: 1647OT Maps ‘Vignemale, Ossau, Arrens, Cauterets’ 1:25,000; Editorial Alpina ‘Panticosa Formigal’ 1:25,000 Base Arrens-Marsous (877m) Maison du Val d’Azun et du Parc National, Arrens-Marsous (Tel 05 62 97 43 13 www.arrensInformation marsous.com) Location

Base ARRENS-MARSOUS (877m) is situated at the foot of the Col du Soulor on D918, about 12km southwest of Argelès-Gazost, at the point where Val d’Azun becomes the Vallée d’Arrens. The village lies 10km from the Plan d’Aste roadhead, the northern ‘gateway’ to the Balaïtous massif. It’s a modestly attractive village with two hotels, several private houses offering chambres d’hôte (B&B), and a 50-place gîte d’étape, the Auberge Camélat (Tel 05 62 97 40 94 www.gite-camelat.com ). Just outside the village a second gîte , Le Gipaet, has 24 places and is open throughout the year (Tel 05 62 97 48 12). Arrens has two campsites, a post office, ATM, shops, restaurants and tourist information in the Maison du Parc National in the main square (Tel 05 62 97

49 49, www.arrens-marsous.com ). There’s a daily bus service (not Sundays) to and from Lourdes.

Refuges and Refugios REFUGE D’ARRÉMOULIT (2305m) is set among boulder country on the north shore of Lac d’Arrémoulit below the West Face of Pic Palas, about 3½hrs from the Ossau valley. Built by the CAF, it’s manned from June to the end of September (Tel 05 59 05 31 79, www.arremoulit.fr/le-refuge ) when meals are usually available. Including beds in a tented annexe, there are 44 places. Reservations are essential.

Situated at the foot of Col du Soulor, Arrens-Marsous is the nearest village to the Balaïtous district

REFUGE DE LARRIBET (2060m) belongs to the Lourdes section of the CAF. A popular hut with 62 places, it is staffed from June to the end of September, with meals provision (Tel 05 62 97 25 39, www.refugedelarribet.ffcam.fr ). It stands on the north side of the mountain, in a small grassy basin (the Pla de Larribet) used as the site of Peytier and Hossard’s base camp while they worked on their Balaïtous survey. REFUGE LEDORMEUR (1970m) – also known as Refuge Balaïtous – is the smallest hut in the region, a simple unguarded shelter to the northeast of the mountain. It can accommodate 12. All equipment and food must be carried in. For information visit www.clubalpin-tarbes.org REFUGE DE MIGOUÉLOU (2290m) is too far north of the Balaïtous to be of use to climbers planning routes on the mountain itself, but it lies in good walking country on the northeast shore of Lac de Migouélou above and to the west of Plan d’Aste. Owned by the PNP with a guardian from mid-June to mid-

September offering full meals service, it has 40 places. Out of season there’s room for 10 in the winter room (Tel 05 62 97 44 92 www.refugemigouelou.com ). REFUGIO RESPOMUSO (2200m) is a well-appointed Spanish hut situated above the north shore of the Respomuso reservoir south of Balaïtous. Built in 1994 by the Federación Aragonesa de Montañismo (FAM), this large and comfortable refuge is permanently staffed, with meals provided and places for 105 (Tel 974 337 556 www.fam.es ). It serves both the GR11 and an HRP variante; by the latter it is reached in about 3hrs from Arrémoulit. It’s also accessible from the Wallon hut in the Vallée du Marcadau by way of Col de la Fache in about 3½–4hrs. The main route of approach is from the Embalse de La Sarra roadhead above Sallent de Gallego in 2½hrs.

ROUTE 21

Ossau Valley (Caillou de Soques, 1400m) – Refuge d’Arrémoulit (2305m) (via Passage d’Orteig)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Ossau Valley (Caillou de Soques, 1400m) 5km 960m 55m 3 3½hrs

This route (or Route 22 , which is a variante) forms part of the standard link between the Pic du Midi region and that of the Balaïtous. Activists with their own transport should note that vehicles may be left in the Ossau valley about 9km south of Gabas at a spot known as Caillou de Soques. This is where the otherwise fairly straight D934 road crosses a stream and makes a sudden elbow turn. There’s a simple shelter, the Cabane de Caillou de Soques (once used as a café), and parking is possible among some large boulders.

A signpost on the east side of the road indicates the start of the route. Here the path twists up through woods that clothe the entrance to the Arrious valley. Emerging from the trees a bridge takes you over the Ruisseau d’Arrious, and you then follow the stream’s north bank upvalley for some distance. Behind to the west Pic du Midi looks magnificent, while ahead peaks crowd the horizon. Gaining height the path climbs in zigzags, then levels into a narrow false col; an idyllic spot with flat turf, a crystal stream and fine views. At the head of the valley Col d’Arrious (2259m) marks a choice of routes. If you are heavily laden, or are prone to bouts of vertigo, do not follow the continuing route described here, but

Take the path which forks to the right. After about 200m come to the narrow Lac d’Arrious. Keep to the eastern (left-hand) side of the lake where the path rises over a low ridge, curves to the right and then narrows along a ledge traversing the North Face of Pic du Lac d’Arrious. This is the celebrated Passage d’Orteig, an exposed stretch secured with cables, with Lac d’Artouste 200m below to the north and a wall of rock rising steeply on the right. Climbing out of the Passage the path is led by cairns over a very rough landscape of scattered boulders, and eventually down to the hut, seen across the outlet stream at the end of the lake. use Route 22 outlined below.

Refuge d’Arrémoulit overlooks the largest of two lakes and a collection of pools in a land of granite and water. To the south, the pyramid-shaped Pic

d’Arriel stands on the frontier ridge. The hut is owned by the CAF, has 44 places and a tented annexe, and is manned from June to the end of September (Tel 05 59 05 31 79).

ROUTE 22

Ossau Valley (Caillou de Soques, 1400m) – Refuge d’Arrémoulit (2305m) (via Lac d’Artouste)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Ossau Valley (Caillou de Soques, 1400m) 6km 1074m 169m 3 4hrs

This approach to the Arrémoulit refuge is a variation of Route 21 , and is included here as it avoids crossing the exposed Passage d’Orteig and therefore may be considered more ‘user-friendly’ for anyone having a problem with vertigo. However, it has the disadvantage of losing nearly 200m of height after reaching Col d’Arrious, and then climbing another 250m in order to reach the hut.

Follow directions from Caillou de Soques to Col d’Arrious as described in Route 21 . From the col cross to the northeast and descend a clear zigzag path towards Lac d’Artouste. The trail veers right and, some way above the lake, it forks at about 2090m. Bear right at this junction to climb the steep path which leads directly to the hut.

ROUTE 23

Lac d’Artouste (1989m) – Refuge d’Arrémoulit (2305m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Lac d’Artouste (1989m) 2.5km 316m 1–2 1–1½hrs

This is the third route of approach to the Arrémoulit refuge from the Ossau valley.

PIC D’ARRIEL (2824M) Rising directly opposite the Arrémoulit refuge across the lake, the North Face of Pic d’Arriel holds a 400m TD+ route that has become a minor winter classic – the so-called Nuit d’Insomnie , put up in March 1997 by Bruzy and Dupouy. This is a terrific route when conditions are right (V+/A1/85°), and it starts at the base of a diagonal left-slanting gully seen angling towards the Northeast Ridge. This same gully and ridge also provide an alternative, fairly straightforward PD route.

The route begins about 7km upstream of Gabas where the dammed Lac de Fabrèges has a huge car park and a téléphérique rising onto the north side of the valley. At the top station of this téléphérique there’s a bright red, opencarriaged tourist train that, when the weather permits, crawls round the mountainside for 10km (in 50mins!) to the northern end of Lac d’Artouste. By use of this mechanical aid a short but steep walk leads to the refuge. From the end of the line a good clear path heads up to the lakeside in about 15mins, then follows the western shore southward. At the far end a trail rises to the southeast, gains about 100m, then forks. Take the left branch to climb steeply in numerous zigzags to reach the hut.

ROUTE 24

Refuge d’Arrémoulit (2305m) – Pic Palas (2974m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Refuge d’Arrémoulit (2305m) 2km 669m PD- (via the North Ridge) 3–3½hrs Rope advised

This ascent route is thought to be that of the 1825 original: a fine route on a sturdy mountain.

PIC PALAS (2974M), ROUTE 24 Directly above and to the east of the Arrémoulit refuge, Pic Palas is a handsome mountain tapering conically from a series of ridges, its summit presenting an unrestricted view of its loftier neighbour to the southeast. During their survey of 1825, Peytier and Hossard made its first ascent under the mistaken impression that they were climbing the Balaïtous. It was not until they were near the summit, where the superiority of its neighbour defied any dispute, that they realised their mistake.

Turn left out of the hut and aim a little south of east on lakeside boulders for about 200m, then cross left to gain the hanging valley headed by Col du Palas. Cairns guide you to a small tarn, the Lac du Col du Palas (2359m). Pass above its southern shore, climb briefly northeast on granitic boulder debris, then curve leftward, rising counter-clockwise over slopes that lie between the mountain’s West and NNW Ridges. Beyond the NNW Ridge aim for the North Ridge by which Pic Palas is attached to Pic d’Artouste. The Brèche des Géodésiens is seen as an obvious notch to the south of Pic d’Artouste, and gaining this provides the key to the ascent.

Pic Palas (left), Col du Palas and the distant Balaïtous: a stony wilderness above Refuge d’Arrémoulit (Routes 21, 22, 24, 25)

The brèche (2786m) is reached about 2hrs from the hut. You then turn right to climb south along the crest on rough boulders, but after the ridge narrows it soon begins to rise steeply. Now leave the crest in favour of a ledge on its right-hand side, which angles up at a more moderate gradient to eventually bring you back onto the ridge once more. This leads without complication over more large blocks to the actual summit. From here the Balaïtous is the main object of attention in a wild landscape of lakes and mountains and an intricate maze of ridges that spreads in every direction. Note The Southeast Arête of Pic Palas holds a 300m AD route, first climbed in 1937. The Southwest Arête is known for the challenging AD+ route (two pitches of IV) which begins at Col du Palas and rises over Piton Von Martin (2785m), a prominent feature on the frontier ridge named after the brothers who first climbed it in 1913. These two routes, however, lie outside the scope of the present guide. Interested climbers should consult Passages Pyénéens by Rainier Munsch, Christian Ravier and Rémi Thivel (Éditions du Pin à Crochets).

ROUTE 25

Refuge d’Arrémoulit (2305m) – Col du Palas (2517m) – Port du Lavedan (2615m) – Refuge de Larribet (2060m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refuge d’Arrémoulit (2305m) 5km 310m 555m 3 3½hrs

This magnificent hut-to-hut route crosses a wild and challenging landscape on what is rightly seen as one of the most taxing stages of the HRP. Demanding a good head for heights, clear visibility and a well-fitting rucksack, it cannot be recommended to inexperienced trekkers.

Leave the Arrémoulit hut and turn left to enter the hanging valley which rises a little south of east a short distance from it. This is gained by crossing some rough granite boulders above the lake. Follow cairns leading beyond a small tarn (Lac du Col du Palas) and continue steeply up to the obvious saddle of Col du Palas (1hr from the hut). From here the view is of the craggy West Ridge of Balaïtous, and plunging screes that form a desolate cup to several lakes far below. Descend a short way below the col to the upper screes, then head left (eastward), keeping as high as possible. A few vague cairns lead the way towards the steep wall linking Pic Palas with Somet de Batcrabère. Cairns again guide you up to the Port du Lavedan, a narrow gap in that ridge, lying southeast of Pic Palas (45mins from Col du Palas). The descent on the northeastern side is precarious in places, but red-white waymarks direct you towards the east, now steadily descending over patches of snow, scree, blocks and boulders, before the tiny Lacs de Micoulaou (2302m) are reached. From the lower of these lakes a trail heads northeast to the larger of the Lacs de Batcrabère (2180m). This is passed along its right-hand side, beyond which you come to the gap of the Brèche de la Garenère, with a first view of Refuge de Larribet, its soft turf offering a welcome contrast to the rough boulder country encountered above. Built in 1958, but enlarged in the 1990s, Refuge de Larribet is owned by the CAF. With 62 places, it’s manned from June to the end of September.

Being very popular, reservations are essential (Tel 05 62 97 25 39). When surveying the district in 1825, Peytier and Hossard (who in the course of their survey made the first ascent of the Balaïtous) made the grassy meadow of Pla de Larribet the site of their base camp.

ROUTE 26

Plan d’Aste (1470m) – Lac de Suyen (1536m) – Refuge de Larribet (2060m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Plan d’Aste (1470m) 4km 590m 2 2½hrs

At Arrens-Marsous below Col du Soulor a minor road (D105) heads southward along the Vallée d’Arrens to the Barrage du Tech, where there’s a simple campsite, then continues for another 3.5km to the Plan d’Aste. There’s a car park and PNP Reception Centre (Maison du Parc, open July and August) here, which serves as the trailhead for several walks, and the starting point for the standard approach to the Larribet hut, for which a sign suggests a time of 2hrs 45mins.

Cross the bridge found to the left of the PNP building, and head south on an easy, stony path rising gently uphill through conifer woods. In 15mins this brings you to Lac de Suyen. A little more than 200m later the path forks. Branch right, and within a few minutes draw level with the lovely Cascade de Doumblas seen to the right. Shortly after cross a stream near a shepherd’s hut, with an attractive stone-built shelter (known as an abri ) tucked beneath an overhanging boulder nearby. The path forks again. Branch right, and gaining height you head west into the Larribet valley: an untamed little glen of natural gardens, pools and polished rocks. The left-hand trail rejoins the main path from Lac de Suyen. For some time the trail keeps company with the Larribet stream, then crosses a low rock ridge on the left, before veering right to make the final climb to the hut.

This tiny abri stands beside the trail leading to Refuge de Larribet

Note It’s worth continuing southwest for another 30mins or so, over the Brèche de la Garenère, to visit the Lacs de Batcrabère which sparkle in a wild but fascinating landscape at 2180m in the upper reaches of the Vallon de Larribet. PIC DE LA LIE (2673M) Above and to the northwest of the Larribet refuge, the outlying Pic de la Lie holds some interest to climbers based at the hut. The Southeast Face provides routes of around 250m that are accessible by way of Col de la Lie (a link with the northern end of Lac d’Artouste). From the hut it takes about 2hrs to reach the foot of the climbs, two of which are especially worth mentioning: Allez les Petits dates from 1994 and is graded D (IV+/V/V+), while Franco-Argentine is found just to the left of its neighbour, and is graded TD (V+/6a).

ROUTE 27

Plan d’Aste (1470m) – Refuge Ledormeur (1970m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Plan d’Aste (1470m) 4km 500m 2 2hrs

Although Refuge Ledormeur is a rather basic unmanned hut, the walk to it is delightful, and even if you have no intention of staying there, or of climbing Balaïtous, it would still be worth visiting.

Take Route 26 from Plan d’Aste to Lac de Suyen and continue south until the track forks. Take the left branch (in effect continuing ahead), wandering deeper into the valley on a rocky path at a modest gradient, at first among alpenroses, then through a stony landscape. At the top of a long rise continue ahead at another path junction, passing above a small sunken meadow, then into the lovely and much larger meadowland of the Plan de Labassa (1731m). At the far end of this cross the stream by way of a footbridge, and then fork right at yet another junction soon after. The path now climbs the western hillside, gaining some 200m to reach the hut. Owned by the Tarbes section of the CAF, Refuge Ledormeur is also known as the Refuge Balaïtous. With places for about 12, it is unmanned and with only basic facilities. The Balaïtous rises above the steep little Glacier de las Néous a little over 2km to the southwest.

ROUTE 28

Plan d’Aste (1400m) – Refuge de Migouélou (2290m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Plan d’Aste (1400m) 3km 890m 3 3hrs

About 1km north of the Plan d’Aste car park at the roadhead in Vallée d’Arrens, a large meadow with a parking area marks the start of this hut approach.

A signed footpath breaks away from the west side of the road, and climbs with the aid of numerous zigzags up the steep, southern flank of Pique d’Aste (2358m), to enter the National Park. More zigzags climb on towards the steep walls of Pic Arrouy. Come to a saddle where you view the dam at the end of the sizeable Lac de Migouélou. Bear left along its shore to find the hut. Built in 1972, Refuge de Migouélou is located in good walking country high above the Vallée d’Arrens (see Routes 32 and 33 for extending walks from here). Owned by the PNP it has 40 places and is staffed from mid-June to the middle of September (Tel 0562 97 44 92 www.parc-pyrenees.com ).

ROUTE 29

Lac d’Artouste (1989m) – Col d’Artouste (2472m) – Refuge de Migouélou (2290m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Lac d’Artouste (1989m) 5km 483m 182m 2–3 3hrs

By use of the Fabrèges téléphérique and tourist train (see Route 23 ) the Migouélou hut is accessible in half a day from the Ossau valley. Note Caution is advised where snow is encountered on the descent to the hut.

From the Artouste railhead take the path up to the barrage at the northern end of the lake, then go to the eastern end of the dam where a PNP path heads left (north). Make a traverse of the northwest slopes of Pic de la Lie for about 30mins, after which the path veers northeastward and climbs to the Lacs de Carnau (2202m). Above these the route now bears southeast and, by way of zigzags, reaches Col d’Artouste (2½hrs). With Lac de Migouélou filling the mountain basin below, the way descends northeastward, often over patches of snow right into the summer, then passes round the eastern side to gain the hut.

The red outline of an izard marks a boundary of the Parc National des Pyrénées

ROUTE 30

Refuge d’Arrémoulit (2305m) – Col d’Arrémoulit (2448m) – Refugio Respomuso (2200m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refuge d’Arrémoulit (2305m) 7.5km 143m 248m 3 3–3½hrs

This trek between huts is a variante of the HRP, and is the first of the recommended approach routes to the Respomuso refugio , which lies in Spain in the Circo de Campo Plano. Leaving France at the Col d’Arrémoulit, the way passes below the west and south flanks of the Balaïtous, making a fine trek through wild and stony country enlivened by a number of tarns. Warning It should not be attempted until summer has shed most of the snow cover, for the route crosses slopes prone to avalanche.

Col d’Arrémoulit is an obvious pass seen on the ridge well to the left of Pic d’Arriel, and southeast of the refuge. From the hut go round the east shore of Lac d’Arrémoulit, and following cairns work your way over a chaotic jumble of rocks to reach the col after about 30mins. The Balaïtous is almost due east from here: a challenging sight. Crossing into Spain descend steeply towards the uppermost lakes that lie in the stony basin at the foot of Balaïtous. Make towards the stream that links the two Lacs d’Arriel, then walk round the western shore heading south. The way swings left round the end of the lakes to join another path coming from Col du Palas. Turn right and keep to the path which follows a stream, and cross where it links two smaller tarns. Beyond the second of these, you cross and recross the stream again and approach the tiny dammed lake of Embalse de Arriel, then curve southeast on a good path which keeps well above the Rio Aguas Limpias on the slopes of Frondella Oriental. This brings you to the large reservoir of the Embalse de Respomuso. Head east above the northern side of the lake to reach the modern refugio .

The well-appointed Refugio Respomuso, base for climbs on the south side of the Balaïtous, and for crossborder routes (Routes 30, 31, 32)

Refugio de Respomuso is a well-equipped hut owned by the FAM. Open and staffed all year round, it can sleep 105 in its dormitories (Tel 974 337 556 www.fam.es ). For the standard approach to it from Sallent de Gallego, see Route 31 .

ROUTE 31

Sallent de Gallego (Puente de la Fajas, 1445m) – Refugio Respomuso (2200m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Sallent de Gallego (Puente de la Fajas, 1445m) 7km 755m 2 2½hrs

This southern approach to the Respomuso refuge is a very attractive one for it takes you through the lovely valley of the Rio Aguas Limpias, at first among meadows and flowers, then through a gorge and along rough mountain slopes below outliers of the Balaïtous massif. The river is a constant companion, but there are also several fine waterfalls that crash down to it. Note In the main summer season there should be no problems, but if the mountains are still coated with snow this route is likely to be threatened by avalanche in several places and must therefore be avoided.

If you have transport drive out of Sallent de Gallego up a minor road at the west end of the village. When it forks at a left-hand hairpin take the right branch signed to La Sarra. Cross to the east side of the La Sarra barrage, ease past the hydro station and park at the roadhead at the northern end of the reservoir. This is Puente de las Fajas. Without transport it will take about 1hr to walk from Sallent to this point.

Cross the bridge to the left-hand side of the Rio Aguas Limpias and wander upvalley along the path of GR11. In the early summer there are many side streams to cross on stepping stones. After 15mins the path rises above an open meadow (ignore the alternative route branching left), and slants up to cross a bridge above a series of cascades. It then enters woodland on the flank of a deep and narrow gorge. As the gorge begins to curve eastward, a spectacular waterfall pours down from the left, draining the cirque of Laderas de Soba. A bridge crosses the Barranco Garmo Negro beside this waterfall, beyond which the path hugs the rock wall along the last of the gorge.

The route from Sallent de Gallego to Refugio Respomuso accompanies the lovely Rio Aguas Limpias

As the valley opens skirt the left-hand edge of a meadow, then cross below an amphitheatre hiding the Arriel lakes and the western crags of Balaïtous. Rising on a stony path now there are more side streams to cross as you climb above another cascade and enter a wild inner section of valley with rocks, slabs and a few stunted trees. Cross below an extensive fan of screes and continue to rise towards the barrage at the western end of the Respomuso reservoir. Just beyond some ruins and a small chapel the path forks. Take the left-hand option which zigzags uphill a short way, then contours to the right before angling downhill to gain the refugio . Refugio Respomuso makes a fine base for a number of outings, including the ascent of such frontier summits as the Grande Fache (3005m), Pic de Cambales (2965m) and Gavizo-Cristail (Pico de Cristales, 2890m), as well as the Frondella peaks which run along a southwest spur from Balaïtous. Ski ascents of all these mountains are possible when conditions allow in winter. In summer walkers can enjoy wandering from tarn to tarn in the valleyhead to the east of the hut, follow the route of GR11 over the mountains to the Baños de Panticosa, or make forays across the frontier into the Vallée du Marcadau.

ROUTE 32

Tour of the Balaïtous Region

Start/Finish Grade Time Accommodation

Plan d’Aste (1400m) 3 3 days Mountain huts

An interesting – and at times a fairly strenuous – circuit of the wild Balaïtous region may be achieved by linking some of the routes described above. Three manned refuges with meals available make the carrying of camping equipment unnecessary.

Day 1 The trek begins in the upper reaches of Vallée d’Arrens, southwest of Arrens-Marsous. Car parking is available at the Plan d’Aste roadhead. About 1km to the north a sign directs you onto a path on the west side of the valley, which heads up the hillside en route to Refuge de Migouélou as described as Route 28 , and taking about 3hrs. Day 2 Head south along the lake shore, then veer right to make the climb to Col d’Artouste (2742m; 1hr). Descend on the continuing path that soon curves down to the northern end of the Lacs de Carnau, before veering left to the dammed Lac d’Artouste (Route 29 in reverse). From the southern end of the reservoir ascend steep slopes to Refuge d’Arrémoulit as outlined in Route 23 (4hrs from Migouélou). Day 3 This third stage is described as Route 30 , crossing Col d’Arrémoulit and passing under the southern flanks of Balaïtous as far as Refugio Respomuso. This will take 3–3½hrs, but the tour continues to the eastern end of the Campo Plano lake, then climbs northward to the frontier ridge at Port de la Peyre–St-Martin (2295m). Back in France descend through the long valley of the Arrens stream, passing Lac de Suyen and arriving at the Plan d’Aste at the end of a magnificent 7–7½hr day.

ROUTE 33

Lac du Tech (Vallée d’Arrens, 1231m) – Lac de Pouey-Laün (2346m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Lac du Tech (Vallée d’Arrens, 1231m) 5km 1115m 3 3–3½hrs

Above and to the northwest of Refuge de Migouélou, in the high country above Vallée d’Arrens, a wonderfully wild cirque (formed partly by a ridge carrying the PNP border) contains the tranquil Lac de Pouey-Laün. Whilst it would be possible to visit this tarn by a fairly straightforward route from the refuge, after first crossing Col d’Hospitalet (see box below), the following route from the Vallée d’Arrens gives a very fine day out, albeit a challenging one (3–3½hrs up; 2hrs down). It’s full of variety and, in the springtime, extravagant with alpine flowers. Note Be aware that following a hard winter, snow and/or ice may cause difficulties in the upper reaches of the Vallon de la Lie until mid-July or so.

Begin about 100m north of the campsite located at the southern end of the dammed Lac du Tech, some 6.5km upvalley from Arrens-Marsous. A parking area is found on the southwest shore of the lake where a sign directs the way to Lac de Pouey-Laün with a rather generous allowance of 4hrs. At first there’s not much of a path to be seen as you go up a grass slope on the west flank of the valley, but you soon come onto a clear trail rising into woodland on the left of a stream. After about 15mins the tree cover thins and the way forks. Branch left to continue among woods of hazel, birch and spruce, contouring briefly before rising steadily. When you finally leave the woods the path keeps close company with the Ruisseau de la Lie and brings you to a glorious natural garden, where this section of the Vallon de la Lie displays a rich assortment of alpine flowers, shrubs of alpenrose and bilberry, and stands of rowan, birch and whitebeam. This is the Pla de la Artigua at 1614m (1hr). The path weaves between individual flower gardens, and towards the upper end of the Pla, eases to the right before climbing up and along the base of screes. Gaining the entrance to an upper basin, cross to the left of the stream and shortly after arrive at the PNP boundary. Just beyond this it’s necessary to recross the stream. Cairns indicate the crossing point, but there is no bridge and the semi-submerged rocks need to be treated with care (a trekking pole can be useful here). The path is a little vague at first, although cairns lead the way to an obvious

trail that climbs the hillside with numerous zigzags. Eventually come to another stream which you cross below a prominent rock, and rise over grass slopes to gain a pole-marker trig point on a bluff. About 10mins later (2hrs 15mins) reach a National Park notice board. The gradient increases as you cross rocks guided by small cairns, still gaining height before swinging to the right to enter the scree basin below and northwest of Pic Arrouy. Slope down the right-hand (north) side of this basin over rough ground, and dodging among boulders, come to the lovely Lac de Pouey-Laün. Snow and ice lingers well into summer in this basin of rock and water, but it’s a peaceful, seemingly remote location, and izard are often to be seen picking their way among the many wild and secretive hollows. It’s a magical place in which to spend an hour or so.

Allow at least 2hrs for a return to Lac du Tech by the same path, and as you begin the descent fine views are to be had across the valley to Pic du Midi d’Arrens.

Winter lingers well into June in the high country near Lac de Pouey-Laün LONGER CIRCUIT: LACS DE MIGOUÉLOU AND POUEY-LAÜN

As suggested in the introductory paragraph to Route 33 , it would be possible to visit Lac de Pouey-Laün from Refuge de Migouélou. By combining Routes 28 and 33 with a 1hr link crossing of Col de l’Hospitalet (2548m), a superb 6–7hr tour could be achieved. From Plan d’Aste wander downvalley for about 1km to where the signed path begins the ascent to Refuge de Migouélou (Route 28 ). It will take 2½–3hrs to reach the refuge, but where the path forks near the barrage at the Migouélou lake, instead of turning left for the hut, take the right branch heading north

then northwest. The path is waymarked and obvious, and climbs in zigzags to gain Col de l’Hospitalet in about 45mins. Pass through the col and traverse the left-hand slope of the Pouey-Laün basin, then gradually slant down towards the northeast end of the lake. The continuing path which descends to Lac du Tech is described in the reverse direction as Route 33 .

ROUTE 34

Refuge d’Arrémoulit (2305m) – Balaïtous (3144m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time Equipment

Refuge d’Arrémoulit (2305m) 4km 1056m 217m F+ (West Ridge, voie normale ) 4–4½hrs Rope, safety helmet advised; ice axe could be useful

A superb ascent that will make for a very full day (allow 3½hrs for a return to the hut, thus making 8hrs for the round-trip, plus rests). Note Without good visibility route-finding could be difficult.

BALAÏTOUS (3144M), ROUTES 34 AND 35 As has already been stated, the attractions of this peak lie in its impressive height and in the savagery of its surroundings. All routes have a degree of seriousness that should not be underestimated, for ridges topple to precipices cut by grooves and gullies, and in misted conditions it is all too easy to become disoriented. However, Balaïtous is a big mountain that rewards with some magnificent expeditions. Summit views are extensive, but of more interest than the multitude of distant peaks is that of the immediate surroundings; the tangled crests and buttresses and hanging valleys devoid of vegetation, ‘the vast chaos of bare ridges and mountain heights lying all silent and lifeless in the light of the sun’ according to Harold Spender (Through the High Pyrenees , 1898). From the summit of Balaïtous one has a grasp of the size and complexity of the range, an impression of an unearthly, unfathomable country, and a profound respect for the pioneers who charted these heavily guarded sanctuaries so long ago.

On leaving the hut head a little south of east and climb over rough ground into the hanging valley beneath the Southwest Face of Pic Palas. Cairns lead beyond a small tarn and guide you up to Col du Palas seen ahead (1hr). From the col descend eastward on the Spanish side until the Arriel lakes come into view below, and the onward route can be assessed. Some way across the basin of scree and boulders a chute of red dirt and scree fans out of a short gully above, and to the east of, the northern Arriel lake. This chute has to be crossed, after which you climb out of the gully and gain height with the aid of cairns keeping a stream on the right, aiming towards a breach in the rocks through which the stream falls. Cross the breach and pass round the northern edge of a little tarn, Gourg Glacé (2404m). This is a tranquil spot with many flowers, and a marked contrast to the chaotic area ahead.

Still following a line a little south of east climb over steepening ground of rocks and patches of snow to the left of a bluff, until cairns lead off the snow

towards an easy gully with overhanging cliffs forming its right-hand wall. This is part of the Balaïtous’s western defences, and marks the start of the climb proper. At the foot of the gully will be found the Abri Michaud (2698m), a basic, emergency shelter created beneath an overhanging rock.

Climb the gully with caution should another party be above or below, as there is much loose rock. The ascent is made without difficulty. At its head emerge onto the broad sloping West Ridge of Balaïtous. Cairns and a vague path lead off to the right (east), gaining height for some distance up the ridge. Then, just as you begin to relax with the ease of progress, alternative routes are offered by a choice of cairns. There is little to choose between them, as each will take you up more gullies (loose stones) and over various rocky spines that now make up the ridge. The cairns are easy to follow, and lead to a final narrow gully, sometimes rimed with ice, which opens just below the domed summit itself. GRANDE DIAGONALE VARIANTE

On gaining the broad West Ridge at the top of the gully, the Aiguille Lamathe (a rock needle) is seen to the north, on the Northwest Ridge, with what appears to be a steep ledge rising across the mountain’s Northwest Face. This is the Grande Diagonale , and despite appearances it offers an easy alternative route. Turn right and cross to the ledge, then climb along it on broken rocks. It is neither as steep nor as narrow as at first it appeared. When you reach a gendarme on the left of the ledge, about 150m from the end, leave the Grande Diagonale (a cairn marks the point of departure) to climb an easy gully in the right-hand wall which leads to the summit. Caution is advised for the descent, particularly in misty conditions when the cairns and vague trails of the West Ridge may be difficult to follow. Beware too of falling stones in the gullies, and be careful to ascertain the correct route off the lower section of ridge into the gully beneath the overhanging wall. It’s a long and tiring descent.

ROUTE 35

Refuge de Larribet (2060m) – Balaïtous (3144m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Refuge de Larribet (2060m) 4.5km 1084m D+ (via the Néous glacier; includes a pitch of grade III) 4–4½hrs Crampons, ice axe, rope; safety helmet advised

This route is very different from the West Ridge voie normale (Route 34 ), for although the approach is somewhat convoluted, the ascent itself is uncomplicated, but slightly more difficult than that of the West Ridge. South of the Larribet refuge the Pabat valley rises and narrows with the converging ridges of Garenère to the west and the long Fachon crest to the east. The high point, where the ridges join above the little Glacier du Pabat, is the Cap Peytier-Hossard. About 700m northeast of this high point, and some 400m lower, Col du Pabat has to be crossed in order to reach the start of the climb.

Descend from the hut a short way, then bear right along a line of cairns at first heading east, then southeastward over rough boulder slopes below the Fachon ridge, to a point just beyond the rocky spur of Pic Rouge. Veer left to gain Col du Pabat where a steep slope of snow and boulders plunges to a small tarn. Cross the col and traverse this slope to the right (south), keeping well above the tarn, and bear round to the Glacier de la Néous. The glacier is short but steep. Above and ahead of it runs the long Costerillou ridge supported by pillars and buttresses seamed with shadowed gullies. To the right rough slopes lead up to the narrowing Cap Peytier-Hossard; between the Cap and Balaïtous itself the ridge is sliced by the Brèche Peytier-Hossard. Ascend the glacier towards its highest point, and make for the second chimney on the face of Balaïtous counting from the brèche. Crossing the bergschrund to get onto the face may be difficult in some years. The first rock pitch is not long, but is often wet and requires care. Climb the dièdre on the left, then turn the overhang also to the left (III) and continue to a substantial ledge marking the end of the second short pitch. Soon above the ledge the chimney opens as a gully (loose stones) which is climbed without difficulty, and it leads almost directly onto the broad summit. Henry Russell, who made the first ascent of this route, wrote that as he approached the top he was ‘…half-mad with joy to see the cairn’. OTHER ROUTES ON THE BALAÏTOUS

With its bristling ridges Balaïtous offers a fine choice of routes of varying degrees of difficulty and commitment. Among the more challenging, mention should be made of the 2.5km traverse of the three main ridges , beginning with the Northwest Ridge , punctuated by the fine Aiguille Lamathe, and which continues over the summit and along the Crête de Costerillou to the shattered spine of the Crête du Diable . This final ‘Devil’s Ridge’ involves much abseil work. The whole round takes 10–12hrs and although graded only D+ it ranks as one of the finest expeditions of its kind in the Pyrenees. The ascent of the Northwest Ridge on its own is a respectable 500m climb. Although graded no more than D, there are individual pitches up to IV+. It was first climbed in 1932. On the Costerillou Ridge the Tour de Costerillou is a prominent pinnacle of 3049m whose North Face rises from the Néous glacier in a dramatic sweep of granite. A 250m TD route has been made on this face, with some exposed pitches of IV and V. The Spanish flanks of Balaïtous also attract attention. On the Southeast Face for example, Viva Zapata is a TD- (IV/V/V+) route of about 285m put up in 1997, while the nearby Eperon Elegante is much longer, some 400m of TD grade climbing (pitches of IV+/V+) pioneered by Gomez and Zapata in 1993. The Ollivier guide succinct (in French and not easy to find), covering many of the opportunities offered by this fine mountain, is Groupe Balaitous-Frondella . See also Passages Pyrénéens for a selection of the hardest routes.

4 THE GOURETTE MASSIF Too far north of the frontier line of peaks to be counted among the top-ranking mountains of the Pyrenees, those that form the Gourette massif nevertheless reveal a surprising collection of intimidating walls and ridges that attract and challenge the local rock climber. None of their summits reaches as much as 2700m and several are easily accessible to non-climbers, yet while their north-facing slopes are laced with cable cars and ski tows, delightfully unspoilt inner regions liberally dotted with tarns provide rewarding outings for walkers. While the ski boom has made Gourette architecturally unappealing, it’s easy to escape into attractive countryside. The GR10 makes a traverse of the area, but there are other tempting multi-day circuits that also give an opportunity for backpackers to cross little-known cols on an exploration of the outlying valleys. Long views to hard-to-recognise peaks reveal a flavour of the magic such travel offers. Motorists driving over Col d’Aubisque (1709m) are able to gain a grandstand view by leaving their vehicles at the col and walking a short distance to the south. There, from a grassy hillock, one may gaze without effort at Pic de Ger, Pic de la Latte de Bazen and the two Pics du Gabizos. The rest is a folding contortion of mystery, while the view northward is of green hills plunging to forest and foothill ranges that contain more delightful walking country. ACCESS AND INFORMATION North of the Balaïtous, but south of the Col d’Aubisque road. Situated entirely in France, midway between the Vallée d’Ossau and Val d’Azun. From Laruns by way of the D918 Col d’Aubisque road. CITRAM buses from Pau to Gourette, Access three times daily between July and mid-September (05 59 27 22 22). IGN Carte de Randonnées No 3 ‘Béarn’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 series no: 1647OT Maps ‘Vignemale, Ossau, Arrens, Cauterets’ and 1546ET ‘Laruns, Gourette’ both at 1:25,000 Base Gourette (1346m) Information Office de Tourisme, Gourette (05 59 05 12 17 www.gourette.com) Location

Base GOURETTE (1346m) is a purpose-built ski resort, an architectural eyesore on the edge of some grand mountain country near the head of the Vallée du Valentin. The Col d’Aubisque road passes through the village on a sharp hairpin bend. For accommodation there’s a refuge (see below), four hotels, and a campsite a short distance downhill to the west. There’s also a tourist office, an ATM, and one or two bars and restaurants, but few shops are open in summer, and the resort has a distinct out-of-season dreariness when the skiing ends.

Refuges CHALET-REFUGE GOURETTE (1350m) belongs to the CAF’s Section Orthez and with 40 places is staffed throughout the year (Tel 05 59 05 10 56 www.ffcam.fr ).

The Gourette Massif in winter garb, viewed from Col d’Aubisque

ROUTE 36

Gourette (1346m) – Lac d’Anglas (2068m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Gourette (1346m) 3.5km 722m 2 2–2½hrs

Lac d’Anglas is a popular destination for both walkers and anglers, and it will be rare to have it to yourself during the main summer weeks. A small tarn above which iron ore was once mined, the remains of former mine workings can be seen close to the lake. From it fine views take account of the shark’s fin ridge of Pène Sarrière to the north and Pic de la Latte de Bazen to the northeast.

The walk begins near the Gourette tourist office. Immediately to the south a string of cableways laces the hillside, while a signpost directs the path to Lac d’Anglas, Lac d’Uzious and so on heading half-left to pass beneath a chairlift. This path is waymarked red-white for the GR10 and climbs steeply at first, then eases into the upper Vallée du Valentin to pass below the impressive slabs of Pène Sarrière (1944m). A number of extreme routes have been achieved on this East Face – see Climbing in the Gourette Massif .

There is little chance of losing the well-trodden path, which for a while rises steadily along the hillside heading south, then veers right (west) to climb more steeply in zigzags, passing the Cascade d’Anglas before arriving at the lake. Allow 1½hrs for a return to Gourette by the same path.

ROUTE 37

Gourette (1346m) – Lac d’Uzious (2115m) – Lac du Lavedan (2179m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Gourette (1346m) 4.5km 833m 2 2½–3hrs

Set in a high basin of pastureland, the two small lakes of Uzious and Lavedan provide a more tranquil destination than the more popular Lac d’Anglas, while the walk to get there is a little more varied than that of Route 36 .

Initially follow the Lac d’Anglas path (Route 36 ) from Gourette into the narrow upper reaches of the Vallée du Valentin below Pène Sarrière’s East Face. After passing the foot of the slabs you will see a simple shepherd’s cabane below by the stream (about 2.5km from Gourette). Soon after this the path begins to zigzag a little. A single cairn indicates a minor path breaking away left from the main Lac d’Anglas trail; follow this as it heads a little east of south, descending slightly. With a few cairns as additional aid the way leads through pastures above the stream aiming towards the head of the valley, with cascades seen above to the right. Coming to a final bowl of rough pasture dotted with boulders and the ruins of an old cabane , the way becomes more clear as it climbs in zigzags up a stark terrain of rock and scree. The path is another of those once used by mine workers, and there are rusting remnants of mine workings lying around. You will come to a large pipe beside which a few steps have been created, and soon above this emerge to a grassy saddle with Lac d’Uzious about 5mins ahead (2½hrs). Cross the outlet stream and walk along the left-hand side of the lake before climbing on a continuing path which leads in about 15mins to Lac du Lavedan. Green pastures slope into the tarn, while off to the west an enticing hanging valley is topped by Hourquette d’Arre by which Gabas and the Vallée d’Ossau may be reached. For a superb view of the eastern mountains, a 20min walk above the lake to Col d’Uzious (2236m) is highly recommended.

The soft light of a summer’s afternoon, below Col d’Uzious MULTI-DAY TOUR FROM GOURETTE

As mentioned earlier, the Gourette region lends itself to multi-day walking tours. Not every glen visited, however, has clearly marked footpaths, and some of the cols crossed require a steady head for heights and sound mountain judgement. That being said, experienced mountain trekkers and backpackers used to covering rough ground with a minimum of waymarks will find the following route very rewarding.

ROUTE 38

Gourette (1346m) – Lac du Tech (1231m) – Arrens-Marsous (877m) – Gourette

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time Accommodation

Gourette (1346m) 27km 1812m 1812m 3 2 days Hotel, gîte d’étape or camping

This is a splendid circuit over very mixed terrain, with a diverse assortment of mountain paths, high cols, a descent through a remote glen, a short section of valley road, and a return along the GR10. On the way you will visit the tarns of Uzious and Lavedan to the south of Gourette, cross Col d’Uzious and descend to the Vallée d’Arrens. Walking downvalley towards Arrens the way then breaks off on the outskirts of the village to follow the GR10 to Col de Saucède, round the Cirque du Litor and by way of Col de Tortes back to Gourette. Strong walkers could push the first day as far as Arrens to take advantage of gîte d’étape or hotel accommodation, but those who prefer to camp will be content with reaching the dammed Lac du Tech at whose southern end there’s a modest campsite. Camping is also possible in Arrens-Marsous.

Leaving Gourette follow directions for Route 37 to Lac du Lavedan, and continue above the tarn to Col d’Uzious (2236m). On the eastern side of the col a path (faint in places) descends into the Labas glen, working a way down the left-hand side on the northern slope. The map shows the route curving round a shallow amphitheatre below Pic de Louesque, but it’s possible to avoid this by dropping to a stream and following it down to the valley bed where there is a simple cabane (Cabane de Bouleste) offering emergency shelter. From here a trail continues on the left side of the glen, eventually entering forest and descending among trees and shrubs to the Vallée d’Arrens. Bear right along the road to reach the campsite at the southern end of the lake, or turn left for Arrens-Marsous (for accommodation details see Chapter 3 : Balaïtous). The next stage heads downvalley (views back to the south show Balaïtous) along the road which, being a dead end, has little traffic, and passes through pleasant countryside. After almost 6km come to the outskirts of ArrensMarsous. Above the road stands a large sanatorium building and a GR10 waymark on the left indicates the route heading northwest along a track.

Steadily gain height through avenues of trees (there are frequent waymarks), then over more open countryside with expanding views. Eventually a path replaces the track and goes on to Col de Saucède (1545m). Descending a broad gully join the road and walk along it round the Cirque du Litor (caution: traffic), then leave it on a right-hand bend by taking a footpath on the left climbing to the Col de Tortes (1799m), about 1hr from the road. The descent to Gourette from the col is steep in places, but leads without difficulty back to the village to complete the circuit.

Walkers on the grassy Col d’Uzious (2236m) (Routes 37, 38) CLIMBING IN THE GOURETTE MASSIF

Despite its comparatively small area, the compact Cirque de Gourette just south of the ski resort contains a number of worthwhile objectives for the rock specialist on the Pène Sarrière, Pène Médaa, Pic d’Amoulat, the Rognon de Ger and Pic de Ger. Routes range in length from 100m (the South Arête of the 1936m Pène Sarrière : AD; III+) to the 700m traverse of Pic de Ger (2614m) graded AD- – and just about everything between. Although Pène Sarrière fails to reach 2000m, it holds several quality routes (some equipped) on its East and West Faces. Mention should be made of the 180m West Face Directissime (TD+, V+/6a/6b) dating from 1971, and the 200m East Face voie Oscaby-Aragües (TD, IV+/6a+) first climbed in the spring of 1986. The Rognon de Ger boasts a clutch of TD routes on its East and Northeast Faces, and on the Northwest Face of the Pène Médaa (2520m) which rises southwest of Pène Sarrière, Les Trois Cirques is a 600m classic (D+, III+). This same route is upgraded to TD (75°/V/80°) when tackled in winter. Winter routes abound in the Cirque de Gourette; the 2594m Pic d’Amoulat , for

example, has two 320m TD+ lines on its NNE Face put up within a couple of days of each other in January 1997: Mariage Blanc and Vive La Mariée . On its Southeast Face in the summer of 1995 Férigo and Thivel created a 300m direct route which they named Ajja 17 Trophy (TD+, V/V+/6a/6b+). These, and various others, are described in Passages Pyrénéens , while Patrice de Bellefon’s 100 Plus Belles Courses et Randonnées focuses on four routes in the Gourette cirque.

5 VALLÉE D’ESTAING Drained by the Gave de Labat de Bun, the Vallée d’Estaing begins among a wedge of peaks under the wall dividing the Balaïtous massif and the Vallée du Marcadau; a rocky hinterland brightened by a few small tarns and the remains of stone-walled sheep pens smothered by tangles of juniper and alpenrose. Its upper reaches lie within the National Park, but north of the PNP boundaries various minor streams soak down the hillsides and unite to give body to the gave . The valley walls expand a little with forested lower slopes, while its bed is adorned with a glimmering sheen of water that stretches across almost its full width: the charming Lac d’Estaing. With a bar-restaurant at its southern end, and a hotel not far from its northern outflow, the lake is an understandably popular destination for anglers, tourists and dreamers. Most are day visitors, but it’s worth staying for a day or two in order to explore the valley’s many attractive features. South of Lac d’Estaing, Pic Maleshores (2703m) and the Grand Barbat (2813m) are the dominant peaks. Though barely perceived from the lakeside, on closer scrutiny they reveal some fine rock architecture of appeal to experienced scramblers, while east of Grand Barbat lies another tarn, the Lac d’Ilhéou, with a refuge at its northern end. This is reached either by a splendid walk from Lac d’Estaing, by a less-demanding approach from Cauterets, or by an interesting cross-country route from the Marcadau. Downstream of Lac d’Estaing the valley narrows again with rough pastures in its bed, and boulder-flecked slopes at mid-height. There are no large villages, just a small hamlet or two and a scattering of isolated farms and crumbling barns that only add to its appeal. The 3–4 day Tour du Val d’Azun visits the lower reaches of the Vallée d’Estaing, the GR10 goes upvalley as far as the lake, then climbs to the refuge at Lac d’Ilhéou on its way to Cauterets, while other less-trodden paths explore remote corners of the mountains. ACCESS AND INFORMATION Wholly in France, the valley reaches south of Val d’Azun and runs east of, and parallel with, the Vallée d’Arrens. By narrow road (D103) from either Arrens-Marsous, St-Savin or Arras-en-Lavedan in the Val Access d’Azun. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 3 ‘Béarn’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 series no: 1647OT Maps ‘Vignemale, Ossau, Arrens, Cauterets’ 1:25,000 Bases Arrens-Marsous (877m), Estaing (1004m), Lac d’Estaing (1163m) Maison du Val d’Azun et du Parc National, Arrens-Marsous (05 62 97 49 49 Information www.valdazun.com) Location

Bases ARRENS-MARSOUS (877m) lies at the foot of the Col du Soulor/Col

d’Aubisque road. It has a 50-place gîte d’étape , the Auberge Camélat (Tel 05 62 97 40 94 www.gite-camelat.com ), several private houses offering B&B (chambres d’hôte ), two campsites, shops, restaurants, an ATM and a post office. A second gîte d’étape (Le Gipaet) lies just outside the village on the way to Col des Bordères. Open all year, it has 24 places (Tel 05 62 97 48 12). For more information try www.arrens-marsous.com . ESTAING (1004m) is a small hamlet on D103 below the Col des Bordères, on the route of the GR10. Although the map shows three campsites, note that Camping Le Vieux Moulin is only for caravans and mobile homes. Camping Pyrénées Natura is at the northern end of the hamlet, and the rather basic Camping La Pose lies south of the village. Between the two the gîte d’étape Les Viellettes has 12 places and is open all year (Tel 09 60 40 65 17 www.gitelesviellettes.com ). LAC D’ESTAING (1163m) has the Hôtel Restaurant du Lac d’Estaing (Tel 05 6297 06 25) at its northern end, open from May to mid-October, and there’s another campsite just behind a restaurant at the southern end of the lake.

Refuges REFUGE D’ILHÉOU (1985m), otherwise known as Refuge Raymond Ritter, enjoys a very fine location overlooking Lac d’Ilhéou. On the GR10, it’s reached by way of Col d’Ilhéou (2242m) in about 3½hrs from Lac d’Estaing, or 1½hrs from the Cambasque roadhead above Cauterets. With places for 22, this rather expensive refuge is manned from June to the end of September, with meals provided. For reservations Tel 05 62 92 07 18 www.pyrenees-refuges.com .

The Vallée d’Estaing

The ever-popular Lac d’Estaing (Routes 39–42)

ROUTE 39

Circuit of Lac d’Estaing (1163m)

Start Distance Grade Time

Circuit of Lac d’Estaing (1163m) 2.5km 1 45mins

An especially rewarding walk early on a summer’s morning, or in the evening.

This short and easy circuit needs no detailed description, but is included here to point visitors to the potential for a gentle stroll in idyllic surroundings. Views, especially from the northern shore, are very fine. There are footbridges at both ends giving access to the lakeside path, while the valley road edges part of the southern shoreline.

ROUTE 40

Lac d’Estaing (1163m) – Lac du Plaa de Prat (1656m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Lac d’Estaing (1163m) 6km 493m 2 2hrs

Lac du Plaa de Prat is a shallow reedy tarn nestling in a seemingly secretive part of the valley. This walk to it is not unduly arduous, but does have its strenuous sections.

From the southwestern end of Lac d’Estaing cross the Gave de Labat de Bun by way of Pont du Pescadou and walk upvalley along a broad clear track. Ahead the mountains close in, streams glisten on hillsides partly clothed in woods, and the walking is easy. After a little over 2.5km cross the stream again at Pont de Plasi (1323m, 45mins), then climb in easy zigzags through mixed woods of beech and pine. Emerging from the woods the path enters the National Park, and continues through a rough boulderland with grass patches grazed by sheep. Note the shepherd’s cabane (the Toue de la Cétira) built under an overhanging rock on the right, and soon after you will come to a very small tarn, the Lac de Langle. In high summer this may be completely dry. Boulders now give way to an undulating plain where the valley opens, and you arrive at the Lac du Plaa de Prat. At the far end on the left is the Cabane de Plaa de Prat (1668m); sometimes occupied by shepherds, it would offer reasonable emergency shelter for four people.

Allow 1½hrs for the return to Lac d’Estaing by the same path. Lac de Liantran (1824m) is the next tarn upvalley to the southwest and is reached by a continuing path in 30–45mins, climbing among alpenrose, juniper, bilberries and boulders. This upper lake is a black tarn in a world of grey rocks, but no less worthy a destination for that.

ROUTE 41

Lac d’Estaing (1163m) – Col d’Ilhéou (2242m) – Refuge d’Ilhéou (1985m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Lac d’Estaing (1163m) 7km 1079m 257m 3 3½hrs

This is a fine walk with some delightful scenery, a high pass to cross and a well-kept hut as the destination. The route follows the GR10 path all the way, and is clear and waymarked throughout. It’s a long haul to the pass, but a comparatively short descent leads to the refuge overlooking a mountain-girt tarn.

Lac d’Ilhéou and its refuge

The path begins halfway along the lake on its eastern side, where a signpost beside the road indicates the way to Cauterets via Col d’Ilhéou. Note If you are starting from the campsite or car park by the restaurant at the southern end of the lake, you can take a short cut on a forest track which eventually brings you to the GR10 footpath. The way climbs quite steeply through the Bois de l’Escale, then out to a

clearing dotted with holly trees, soon reaching the Cabane d’Arriousec (1400m) about 30mins from the lake. Beyond this join the previously mentioned track which came from the valley, and a few paces later quit this in favour of the continuing path cutting up the hillside to the left. Over open pastures the trail heads up the flank of a hanging valley topped by the craggy Barbat peaks, and with the grassy saddle of Col d’Ilhéou seen ahead. Rising steadily top a bluff, then cross the stream, and after climbing a series of zigzags pass the Cabanes du Barbat off to your right. The path continues and about 3hrs from the lake you come onto Col d’Ilhéou, a broad grassy saddle cutting west to east in a rolling ridge of mountains that grow in stature to the south where Grand Barbat dominates. Descend on the eastern side of the pass without difficulty, but with quintessentially Pyrenean views ahead. At the Cabanes d’Arras (2073m) – one of stone, the other of metal (spaces for six) – a sign suggests 30mins to the refuge. Continuing, the way bears south, crosses a stream, goes over a knoll, makes a traverse of steep mountainside and then descends to Refuge d’Ilhéou. Allow 3hrs for the return to Lac d’Estaing.

ROUTE 42

Lac d’Estaing (1163m) – Lac du Barbat (1973m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Lac d’Estaing (1163m) 4km 810m 2–3 2½hrs

Lac du Barbat lies in a scoop of rough mountainside northwest of the Grand Barbat, not far from the Cabanes du Barbat, and makes an interesting destination for a walk.

Follow directions to the Cabanes du Barbat as outlined in Route 41 , then leave the GR10 where the path forks. Take the right branch, and passing the cabanes aim southwest. The way soon crosses a modest saddle and slopes down to the tarn. ASCENT OF GRAND BARBAT

For its height (2813m) and length of approach from Lac d’Estaing, Grand Barbat provides an ascent of modest proportions by its voie normale . This begins by following GR10 to the Cabanes du Barbat, then passing Lac du Barbat, and continues up to the Brèche du Barbat (2643m) at the foot of the Southwest Ridge. From the brèche to the summit involves an easy scramble keeping west of the ridge itself. Allow 4½–5hrs for the ascent, and 3½hrs for the descent by the same route, or make a traverse by descending from the brèche to Lac Long and the Gave de Labat de Bun (a much longer route giving a round-trip of about 9–10hrs).

6 VALLÉE DU MARCADAU Sandwiched between the rather austere heights of the Balaïtous massif to the west and the Vignemale to the southeast, the Vallée du Marcadau is a gentle oasis of light and colour. Streams dash in silver cascades to unite in pastures where izard graze both morning and evening. There are trout in the tarns, and hillsides ablaze with spring flowers. It’s a walker’s paradise with numerous outings of great charm to discover. There are modest ascent routes too on mountains at the head of the valley, and some pleasant, if short, rock scrambles to enjoy on the Arrouy aiguilles that rise as a jagged spine above Lac du Pourtet. There’s no reason for anyone to run short of ideas in the Marcadau and its tributary glens. From Pont d’Espagne to Refuge Wallon near the head of the valley the Marcadau is lush with pastures and streaked with streams. There are a few green ponds, stands of pine, rough boulders and the hint of big mountains ahead. Above the refuge the valley fans out with short side glens adding their own personality to the overall scene. To the northwest lies a graniteland, unguessed from the low pastures of Wallon. In it lie numerous tarns, either isolated with no apparent outlet or linked by beautiful meandering streams above which rise rough frontier peaks. North of Wallon more tarns sparkle among the mountains, while a little south of west from the refuge a charming slope of hillside drains from the valley’s highest peak, the Grande Fache (3005m), on either side of which trekkers’ cols give access to Spain. From Grande Fache the ridge undulates in a southeasterly line to Grand Pic d’Arratille (2900m) before slanting northeastward at the head of the Spanish valley of the Rio Ara. Below Grand Pic d’Arratille is the dip of Col d’Arratille (2528m), and from it a fine little glen drains northward with yet more tarns to join the Marcadau almost opposite the Wallon refuge. Until the end of the 19th century the upper pastures were used as an open market by farmers from both sides of the frontier. Marcadau means ‘the market place’, and grazing rights for these same pastures traditionally belonged to French farmers until the end of July, after which they passed to their Spanish neighbours from the province of Panticosa. Throughout its length the valley has immense charm, and it makes one of the finest possible introductions for newcomers to the Pyrenees, while those who have long succumbed to its numerous attractions find themselves lured back time and time again. ACCESS AND INFORMATION Location

East of the Balaïtous massif, southwest of Cauterets and projecting as far as the Franco– Spanish border.

Access

By road from Cauterets via Pont d’Espagne in Val de Jéret (where vehicles should be parked). Cauterets is linked by bus with Lourdes. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 3 ‘Béarn’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 series no: 1647OT Maps ‘Vignemale, Ossau, Arrens, Cauterets’ 1:25,000 Base Cauterets (902m) Information Office de Tourisme, Place Maréchal-Foch, Cauterets (05 62 92 50 50 www.cauterets.com)

Base CAUTERETS (902m) began as a spa town and later developed as a winter resort. It’s also very busy in summer, with a wide range of accommodation in some 20 or so hotels, and two gîtes d’étape open all year: Le Pas de L’Ours (Tel 05 62 92 58 07 www.lepasdelours.com ), and the 38-place Beau Soleil (Tel 05 62 92 53 52). Cauterets also has several campsites, and plenty of shops, banks, restaurants, a tourist information office (www.cauterets.com ), PNP office (Maison du Parc Tel 05 62 92 52 56), and a mountain guides bureau (Tel 05 62 92 62 02). The town is conveniently reached by a regular SNCF bus service from Lourdes, and each day in the summer season a navette carries passengers through the Val de Jéret to Pont d’Espagne, from where a short stroll leads to the entrance to the Vallée du Marcadau.

Refuge Wallon and frontier peaks (Routes 44–53)

At the head of the valley, the Port du Marcadau (left) and Col de la Fache provide routes over the border into Spain

Refuges CHALET-REFUGE DU CLOT (1550m) is situated at the entrance to the Vallée du Marcadau beyond the Pont d’Espagne car park (there is also hotel accommodation at Pont d’Espagne). Staffed from May to the end of October, and in December and at Easter, it has 43 places in rooms and dormitories, but reservations are essential (Tel 05 62 92 61 27 www.chaletduclot.fr ). REFUGE WALLON (1864m) commands an idyllic position near the head of the Marcadau, with fine views of Grande Fache and its neighbours, and of the topmost snows of the Vignemale’s Clot de la Hount Face. It’s a rambling CAF building offering dormitory accommodation (120 places), and with a simple hut adjacent. Staffed from June to the end of September, a full meals service is usually available (Tel 05 62 92 64 28 www.refuge-wallon.net ). Reached in about 2hrs from Pont d’Espagne, the refuge is invariably very busy during the main summer season.

ROUTE 43

Cauterets (902m) – Pont d’Espagne (1465m) – Chalet-Refuge du Clot (1550m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Cauterets (902m) 8km 648m 1–2 2–2½hrs

The vast majority of visitors to the Marcadau and parallel Vallée de Gaube journey as far as possible by car, leaving their vehicles at a huge car park below Pont d’Espagne. At the car park there’s a PNP information office, public toilets and telephones. However, the walk from Cauterets alongside the river, on what is known as the Sentier des Cascades, is well worth tackling. Refreshments are available at La Raillère and Pont d’Espagne.

From the southern end of Cauterets (the Futaie district) climb steps on the right of the road to join a footpath adopted as a variante of the GR10. This rises through beechwoods of the Peguère forest and in 30mins reaches the abandoned Thermes de la Raillère where waterfalls come crashing from the woods below the Vallée de Lutour tributary glen, and also from the main Val de Jéret. In 1861 Tennyson recorded the scene as the ‘stream that flashest white…’ The path continues on the north side of the river (true left bank) climbing past one thunderous waterfall after another, and with forest providing shade all the way. There are numerous idyllic places to pause to take photographs. In a little over 1hr from La Raillère you can see the Plateau de Pountas car park across the river, and shortly after come to Pont d’Espagne where you go up onto the road and cross the scenic arched bridge, just beyond which there’s a hôtellerie /café/restaurant. About 1min later it’s worth diverting onto a footpath on the right signed to ‘Monument Meillon’. This path winds easily uphill through sparse pinewoods, goes beneath the Pont d’Espagne gondola lift, and brings you to a stone pillar commemorating Alponse Meillon (1862–1933) – a great Pyrenean enthusiast – from where there’s a lovely view across the head of a waterfall to the distant Vignemale. Return to the track and follow this upvalley, soon crossing open pastures at the far end of which you come to the Chalet-Refuge du Clot.

ROUTE 44

Chalet-Refuge du Clot (1550m) – Refuge Wallon (1864m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Chalet-Refuge du Clot (1550m) 5.5km 314m 1–2 1½hrs

Of the two routes into the Vallée du Marcadau, this is the preferred option. The alternative (right-bank) route, which is the busier of the two, is described as Route 45 .

From Chalet-Refuge du Clot go diagonally across the meadowland with its skitows, where a vague path may be detected in the grass. Beyond the first ‘meadow’ the path is clearly defined as it leads into the valley proper. Remaining on the true left bank of the Gave du Marcadau (north side) the path maintains a fairly level course and crosses a few minor side streams. Views ahead, and the gentle foreground of winding streams, stands of pine and the smooth pastures of the Plateau du Cayan, make this a truly delightful and uncomplicated walk. After almost 3km, Pont du Cayan is seen on the left. Go over this bridge and join the main route (see Route 45 ) as far as Refuge Wallon.

ROUTE 45

Pont d’Espagne (1496m) – Refuge Wallon (1864m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Pont d’Espagne (1496m) 5.5km 368m 1–2 2½hrs

The alternative approach to Refuge Wallon, this walk follows the south side of the stream most of the way to Pont du Cayan along the track/road used to supply the hut.

From Pont d’Espagne walk upvalley to the meadowland below Chalet-Refuge du Clot (see Route 44 ) then cross to the left-hand (south) side of the stream and follow the continuing road as it projects into the Marcadau proper where pastures spread across the valley floor. Shortly after you reach the Pont du Cayan, the way narrows to a clear footpath which climbs among trees and later emerges once more beside the Gave du Marcadau. It then crosses to the west (true left) bank by the sturdy Pont d’Estaloungue. The trail eases across shallow levels, rises over rocky bluffs, and now and then is shaded by pines, until at last Refuge Wallon is seen standing a little above the stream to the right of the path.

The upper reaches of the Vallée du Marcadau, close to Refuge Wallon

The Grande Fache overlooks the head of the Marcadau valley

ROUTE 46

Refuge Wallon (1864m) – Grande Fache (3005m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refuge Wallon (1864m) 4.5km 1141m F (voie normale ) 3–3½hrs

Most ascents of the Grande Fache follow this route. It’s a two-part climb. The approach to Col de la Fache is a very pleasant walk, while the route from col to summit is an easy scramble with far-reaching views.

GRANDE FACHE (3005M), ROUTE 46 Located southwest of the Wallon refuge, the Grande Fache rises as a large pyramid. The highest peak in the so-called Marcadau cirque, it makes a pleasing ascent (one of the easiest 3000m summits in the Pyrenees) with very fine views. On 5 August each year it forms the focus of a pilgrimage in memory of those who have perished in the mountains.

Below the refuge cross the bridge to the true right bank of the stream and turn right. Crossing tributary streams, follow the path over pastures, then after about 500m bear right on a trail heading west up grass slopes, passing above and to the left of a small tarn (2291m) and making towards Col de la Fache which lies to the right of the peak. Gained by way of a scree slope in a little over 2½hrs from the refuge, this col is an obvious dip in the frontier, across which it’s possible to reach the comfortable Refugio Respomuso and some interesting Spanish valleys. Views from Col de la Fache range over much fascinating country. From the col turn left to climb the north ridge on a clear route marked with occasional cairns. A little scrambling may be necessary, but there should not be any undue difficulties as you gain the crest with its little rocky spires and broad gendarmes. This in turn leads easily to the summit in about 40mins from the pass. Of the many peaks on show, highlights include the imposing Picos del Infierno which stand a short distance to the south, the Balaïtous a little north of west, while Pic du Midi d’Ossau can be seen above and beyond the Respomuso and Campo Plano lakes. Allow 2hrs for the descent.

Idyllically situated near the head of the Marcadau valley, Refuge Wallon is the base for countless walks and climbs OTHER CLIMBS ON GRANDE FACHE AND ITS NEIGHBOURS

Between Grande Fache and Pic Falisse, its neighbour to the southeast, the ridge dips more than 300m to Col Falisse (2685m). An interesting route graded AD climbs from this col up the Eastern Arête of Grande Fache. Another, graded AD-, tackles the same arête but on its northeastern side, and the two routes combine some way below the summit. To the north, the 2956m Petite Fache boasts a delicate 280m route on its North Face , discovered in 1973 and now graded TD+ (V+/A2), while the Northeast Pillar of Pic Falisse (2765m) attracts with an exposed route climbed in 1983 by the talented rope of Paul Bouchet, with Jean and Pierre Ravier. Their route is 300m long on excellent granite, and is graded D (IV/IV+).

ROUTE 47

Refuge Wallon (1864m) – Port du Marcadau (2541m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refuge Wallon (1864m) 4km 677m 2–3 2½hrs

Below and to the southeast of Pic Falisse the Port du Marcadau offers an easy crossing into Spain, and has long been used by travellers bound for Balnerio de Panticosa. Although there is nothing difficult about the walk to the pass, and it lies at a lower altitude than that of Col de la Fache, it has a rather more strenuous approach than its higher neighbour.

The walk begins by following the early stages of the route to Col de la Fache, crossing the Marcadau stream below the hut and heading upvalley over tributary streams. Instead of veering west, as for Col de la Fache, continue heading a little west of south, rising over the Pla de Loubosso on a path which follows a stream draining the valley flowing from the Port du Marcadau. The crest of Pic Falisse appears like the huge fin of a dinosaur from here, with the North Face of Muga Nord to its left. The trail winds its way towards Muga Nord (2676m) before swinging to the right into wild country between it and Pic Falisse, where you come to a small pool known as Hount Frido (2330m). Above this bear left to climb the final steep slopes to reach the Port du Marcadau where views open to the south over a land of lakes and rolling heights dominated by the Picos del Inferno. An easy scramble leftwards from the col will take you to the summit of Muga Nord in about 20–30mins.

Balneario (or Baños ) de Panticosa may be reached in a further 2½hrs by way of a fairly easy route among the lakes below, where it joins the path of the GR11.

ROUTE 48

Refuge Wallon (1864m) – Pic de Cambalès (2965m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refuge Wallon (1864m) 6km 1101m F 4hrs

On the approach to Pic de Cambalès keep alert for a possible sighting of izard that can sometimes be seen by the pools and tarns of the upper valley.

PIC DE CAMBALÈS (2965M), ROUTE 48 Pic de Cambalès may not be one of the great peaks of the Pyrenees. It shows no natural elegance of form, offers no challenging rock climbs, has neither glacier nor permanent snowfield, and is rather tucked away from view. Many wander in the Marcadau without giving it a second glance. Yet its location is such that it commands a truly magnificent panorama, and rewards those who are drawn to it not only with its memorable vistas but with an ascent that offers surprising variety and no shortage of interest. It rises a little north of west from Refuge Wallon, astride the frontier ridge between the rocky pile of the Pène d’Aragon and Pic de la Peyre, and the initial approach to it follows a section of trail used on the Haute Route.

Leaving the Wallon refuge take the path which rises among pine trees and alpenrose aiming northwest. Entering a small level area the path divides. That which goes off to the right leads to the lake circuit described as Route 50 . The path for Pic de Cambalès veers leftward, rising still to pass through a false col, beyond which you reach the first of the many Lacs de Cambalès – a string of three tarns lying to the right of the trail. Ahead, and to the southwest, rises Pic de Cambalès with a long moraine ridge, the Crête de Cambalès, thrusting forward. A cairn by the path indicates the point at which you leave the main trail to break away to the left. Make towards the Crête de Cambalès, following a vague line of cairns and passing to the left of a largish tarn. Reaching the Crête the way initially leads along its northern side, then climbs onto the crest itself. Gaining height without difficulty you overlook a world of grey granite and silent tarns, a naked landscape with its own distinctive charm. Come off the Crête to enter a hanging valley of moraine boulders and scree, headed by Pène d’Aragon above to the left, and by the steep cliffs of Pic de Cambalès. Between the two is the Col d’Aragon (2808m), which is gained by a final pyramid of granite blocks (about 3½hrs). Bear right to climb the broken

southern slopes of the mountain which, from the col, appears as a giant slag heap. Cairns lead toward the summit, and as you draw closer to it, so the precipices of the eastern side become impressive and the peak itself improves. The summit is reached in about 30mins from the col.

Pic de Cambalès is a grandstand from which to study the Balaïtous

Just below the summit there’s a collection of three memorial plaques, but it is the magnificent panorama that will hold your attention. Nearby the Balaïtous shows its bristling ridges and tiny glacier blocked by high protective walls. To the south are the Picos del Inferno; to the north (on a clear day) you can see far beyond the foothill ranges to the vast plains of southwest France; while to the southeast the Vignemale, Pic du Marboré and distant Maladeta can all be picked out in a vast sea of peaks. Allow 2½hrs for the descent by the same route. ALTERNATIVE ROUTE TO PIC DE CAMBALÈS

Another facile route of ascent goes by way of Col de la Fache and Pène d’Aragon, then joins the Route 48 at Col d’Aragon; about 3½hrs from Refuge Wallon.

ROUTE 49

Refuge Wallon (1864m) – Col de Cambalès (2706m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refuge Wallon (1864m) 5km 842m 3 3–3½hrs

Walkers who might be loath to tackle the ascent of Pic de Cambalès have an opportunity to enjoy the Cambalès tarns and wild views of the Balaïtous from Col de Cambalès. It’s a strenuous walk, but a rewarding one.

Follow the path described in Route 48 from the Wallon refuge to the Lacs de Cambalès. Instead of turning left to climb along the Crête de Cambalès, continue on the path heading west among many tarns that lie trapped among granite boulderlands. The way becomes rough as you climb towards the pass. Snow patches often litter the slopes, but it is worth persevering for the view of Balaïtous from the col is remarkable, as is the scene below through which you have just wandered. Allow 2hrs for a return to Refuge Wallon.

ROUTE 50

Marcadau Lakes Circuit

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refuge Wallon (1864m) 10km 799m 799m 3 4–5hrs

This superb outing is one of the classic walks of the Pyrenees and will demand a full day to tackle, despite the modest walking time quoted above. For there are so many delectable tarns to settle by, so many glorious views to absorb, that progress is frustrated by the need to stop and stare at the wonders of the landscape. And why not? In a previous edition of this guide the circuit was written as an anticlockwise route. Having now walked it in both directions (more than once) I believe a clockwise circuit gives the finest views and is a little less demanding for those walkers using Refuge Wallon as a base.

Take the path heading upvalley from the hut, as described at the start of Route 48 . It takes you through the pines and into the level area where an alternative PNP trail breaks away to the right (north) at a point where a stream issues from an obvious corrie. This is the trail to follow. Climbing through a granite bowl it winds up to the open end of a rocky, grassless basin with Lac Nère trapped within.

On the Marcadau Lakes Circuit, the route passes below the Aiguilles de Castet Abarca

Continue round the right-hand side of the tarn and at the far end climb to a high valley containing Lac du Pourtet, above whose northern shore screes are topped by the jagged Aiguilles du Pic Arrouy (or Piarrouy). Halfway along the eastern shore the path bears right to overlook a steeply falling valley with yet more tarns lying below. Wander down to these tarns (Lacs de l’Embarrat, 2139m and 2076m) passing below the Aiguilles de Castet Abarca, and continue beyond the lower tarn as the path twists down to the bed of the Marcadau, which you reach at Pont du Cayan. Cross the bridge, bear right and follow the familiar trail upvalley to the Wallon refuge. CLIMBS ON THE AIGUILLES DE PIARROUY AND CASTET-ABARCA

Overlooking the Lacs du Pourtet and de l’Embarrat visited on Route 50, the Aiguilles de Piarrouy (2600m) and Aiguilles de Castet-Abarca (2569m) provide interesting climbing on sound granite. An east–west traverse of the first of these is graded D+ (V+), while a traverse of the Castet–Abarca aiguilles, finishing on the Grande Aiguille, goes at D (IV+).

ROUTE 51

Refuge Wallon (1864m) – Col d’Arratille (2528m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refuge Wallon (1864m) 5km 664m 3 2½–3hrs

The walk to Col d’Arratille forms part of a stage on the High Route, a stage which crosses other cols on the way to the Vignemale (see Route 53 ). It’s a fine walk in its own right, and one which could be extended into a long circuit, or a descent through the Spanish valley of the Rio Ara, as an approach to climbs on Grand Pic d’Arratille, or as a variation of Route 52 below.

Leaving the Wallon hut take the main path downvalley heading east, and cross the stream by a footbridge at the mouth of the Arratille glen. A clear path heads south into the glen, soon on the right bank of its stream, the Gave d’Arratille, and gains height without difficulty. Trading grass for glaciersmoothed rocks, then back to grass again, you eventually cross a footbridge just before reaching Lac d’Arratille (1hr 45mins). Walk round the western shore of the lake, then cross the stream again at its southern end. Below a small tarn waymarks lead in a circuitous route up a region of rough broken rocks. In the event of snow covering the way, the general direction to follow is south, keeping to the left of a stream until you gain a desolate upper coombe in which you find Lac du Col d’Arratille. Traverse screes well to the left of this tarn and gain the obvious saddle of Col d’Arratille, with its direct view across the head of the Ara valley to the Vignemale. Allow 2hrs to return to Refuge Wallon. An easy descent into the Ara may be made from here. By following the Rio Ara downvalley on its left bank the hamlet of Bujaruelo may be reached in about 4hrs (6–7hrs to Torla). To continue across to the Vignemale and then to Gavarnie (about 9hrs from here – with overnight accommodation in either Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube or Refuge Bayssellance), see Route 53 . For a long circuit (10hrs in all) cross the head of the Ara, continue over Col des Mulets and descend to the Vallée de Gaube, then head north

through the valley to Pont d’Espagne. From there take the path described as Route 45 to the Wallon refuge.

ROUTE 52

A Tour of the Arratille Valley

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refuge Wallon (1864m) 8km 688m 688m 3 4–5hrs

An exploration of the Arratille glen will give an entertaining day’s walking. There are remote tarns, interesting geological formations, a wonderland of alpine plants, bare screes and fine views. Note The route described below is largely free of paths and, as some of the wild country crossed is rough underfoot and the map not entirely accurate, good visibility will be required.

Follow Route 51 as far as Lac d’Arratille. From the southern end of the lake paint flashes and a few cairns direct you away from the main path off to the right (southwest). You gain height easily to top a grassy lip overlooking another tarn, Lac de la Badette (2344m) which lies almost 100m above Lac d’Arratille, in a bowl of rock and grass below the steep crags and screes of the two Pics d’Arratille. Go down to the lake (a botanist’s delight) and wander round its northern shore, then ascend grass slopes to the west in order to reach Col du Chapeau (2552m), below and to the southwest of le Chapeau d’Espagne (2590m). From the col very fine views are to be had of the Vignemale and of the Pics Chabarrou that wall the Arratille glen.

Descend northwest over slopes of rock and scree, and pass round the eastern side of a tarn. Find the unseen line of its outflow stream and follow this roughly northward. Eventually the stream appears and leads among pastures near the junction of the Arratille and Bassia glens. Grass slopes bring you to the Arratille proper where you rejoin the path that leads back to the Marcadau. MOVING ON: VALLÉE DU MARCADAU TO GAVARNIE

The 2-day trek from Refuge Wallon to Gavarnie forms part of the Pyrenean Haute Route. One of the scenic highlights of that epic route, it passes in front of the great North Face of the Vignemale, winds below the longest Pyrenean glacier, and finishes with a direct view of the famed Cirque de Gavarnie.

ROUTE 53

Refuge Wallon to Gavarnie

Start Start/Finish Distance Grade Time

Refuge Wallon (1864m) Gavarnie (1365m) 28km 3 2 days

There are three high passes to cross on this route, and a choice of CAF huts in which to stay.

Day 1 Begin by following directions for Route 51 to Col d’Arratille (2528m). Crossing into Spain turn left along a roughly contouring path across the head of the Ara valley, then steeply up to Col des Mulets (2591m, 4hrs from Wallon) for a return to France. A steep and narrow little glen slopes eastward (some snow patches), and brings you to a flat plain out of which rises the huge North Face of the Vignemale. Cross to the Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (2151m, 5hrs) which stands on the east side of the valley. Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (2151m): CAF owned, 85 places, staffed from end of May to the end of September (Tel 05 62 92 62 97 www.refugeoulettesdegaube.ffcam.fr ). Now following the GR10, climb southeastward, but on coming to a trail junction ignore the left fork (which leads to Col d’Arraille and the Vallée de Lutour) and continue, now curving south with the Petit Vignemale seen directly ahead. Sometimes snow patches litter the path, but the trail should be clear all the way to Hourquette d’Ossau (2734m, 7hrs). From it Refuge de Bayssellance is seen just 10–15mins below to the east. Refuge de Bayssellance (2651m): CAF owned, 58 places, guardian from June to end of October, meals provision, 31 places in winter. Being invariably busy, reservations are essential (Tel 05 62 92 40 25 www.refugebayssellance.ffcam.fr ).

Day 2 The trail downvalley from the refuge soon brings you in view of the Ossoue glacier draped down the east flank of the Vignemale. Ignore the path branching towards it, but continue to lose height, passing three of Henry Russell’s caves. Shortly after these go below an old moraine and curve round a projection to enter a small bowl and cross a few streams. Here, and elsewhere on the path, snow often lies in great cones throughout summer and care should be exercised when crossing.

Now the trail climbs against a cliff, then descends into a long, flat area containing a small lake blocked by the Ossoue dam. Cross a footbridge and wander along the north shore, reaching the dam about 2hrs from the Bayssellance hut. Cabane d’Ossoue here provides basic emergency shelter. Beyond the dam a track leads to Gavarnie, but the GR10 offers a better route. Cross a footbridge below the dam and head south following waymarks over grass, then on a clear path up to a level area criss-crossed with streams draining the Vallée de la Canau. Cabane de Lourdes offers more emergency shelter. Cross the Canau stream by footbridge, after which the GR10 path breaks from the ‘official’ HRP route, cuts north (left), then eases towards the southeast to pass yet another basic hut, Cabane de Sausse-Dessus, in the indented glen of the same name. North again, then eastward on a fairly level course high above the Ossoue valley, you wander over several streams and leave the PNP. A steady descent, and an interesting trail, takes you down to the road linking Gavarnie with Port de Boucharo. Bear left and follow this into Gavarnie, passing on the way Refuge les Granges de Holle , a CAF refuge open all year except November, with 50 places and meals provision (Tel 05 62 92 48 77 www.grangedeholle.free.fr ). Gavarnie village is reached about 5hrs from Refuge de Bayssellance.

7 VIGNEMALE Viewed from high points above Gavarnie, from the Brèche de Roland or Monte Perdido, the Vignemale is a large snow-draped mountain whose glacier (the longest in the Pyrenees) drains into the Vallée d’Ossoue. From the aromatic meadows of the Ara in the south, the Vignemale is seen to rise in terraces and insignificant buttresses, a bewildering structure that has no apparent summit. When approached from Lac de Gaube one is struck by the majestic headwall of the valley, for an impressive grey limestone cirque gives north faces that would stand out in any mountain region; big walls that are at once supremely attractive and compelling in their challenge. In 1837 the highest of the Vignemale’s four peaks (Pique Longue, 3298m) was climbed via the Ossoue glacier by Henri Cazaux and Bernard Guillembet. Having both fallen into a large crevasse on the way to the summit, they were unwilling to repeat the experience, so found a safe, glacier-free descent into the Ara. It was this rather circuitous southern route that was promoted the following year by Cazaux when he led a single-minded Englishwoman, Miss Anne Lister, on the first tourist ascent of the mountain. The Vignemale has remained a much sought-after summit ever since, while the Ossoue glacier – though still the most extensive in the Pyrenees – has shrunk from its former glory and no longer holds the great perils of old. It is now accepted as offering the easiest route, while on the North Face there are lines of a very different order.

Vignemale north faces (from left to right): Petit Vignemale, Pointe Chausenque, Piton Carré, Pique Longue

When studied from Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube, the four peaks are, from left to right: the Petit Vignemale, Pointe Chausenque, Piton Carré and Pique Longue. Between Piton Carré and Pique Longue the prominent Couloir de

Gaube is a dramatic 600m seam first climbed in 1889 by the team of Brulle, Bazillac and de Monts, with the guides Célestin Passet and Bernard Salles. This was a remarkable achievement for the period, and today the Couloir remains a much-respected mixed route (TD-), while climbs on the various faces are exposed throughout and of a severity beyond the scope of the present guidebook. (See Rock Climbs in the Pyrenees by Derek L. Walker for a selection; the French guide Passages Pyrénéens also offers a choice of hard routes.) By any standards the Vignemale is an impressive peak, and an ascent from any direction will be rewarded, not only by the summit panorama but by the ever-varied detail of the mountain itself. As for the valleys around it, the finest by far is the Vallée de Gaube, which spreads below the great North Face to the wooded Val de Jéret above Cauterets. ACCESS AND INFORMATION South of Cauterets and west of Gavarnie, the Vignemale stands astride the Franco–Spanish border. From Cauterets via Pont d’Espagne and the Vallée de Gaube, or from Gavarnie through the Access Vallée d’Ossoue. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 3 ‘Béarn’, or No 4 ‘Bigorre’, both at 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 Maps series no: 1647OT ‘Vignemale, Ossau, Arrens, Cauterets’ and 1748OT ‘Gavarnie, Luz StSauveur’ both at 1:25,000 Bases Cauterets (902m), Gavarnie (1365m) Office de Tourisme, Cauterets (05 62 92 50 50 www.cauterets.com) Office de Tourisme, Information Gavarnie (05 62 92 49 10 www.summer.gavarnie.com) Location

Bases CAUTERETS (902m) is part spa town, part winter resort and mountaineering centre. It has a wide range of accommodation, from campsites to hotels and two gîtes d’étape : Le Pas de L’Ours (Tel 05 62 92 58 07) and the Beau Soleil (Tel 05 62 92 53 52). There are plenty of shops, banks, restaurants, a tourist information office, Maison du Parc, and a mountain guides bureau (Tel 05 62 92 62 02). Cauterets is served by SNCF bus from Lourdes, while a local navette ferries visitors to Pont d’Espagne, a short stroll from the Vallée de Gaube. GAVARNIE (1365m) is surely the best-known village in the Pyrenees by virtue of the magnificent cirque that forms its backdrop. An historic place for those with a taste for Pyrénéisme it is, however, architecturally uninspiring, and its street is flanked with tacky souvenirs and crowded cafés. There are several hotels, three mountain refuges nearby, a gîte d’étape (Le Gypaëte Tel 05 62 92 40 61) and a small campsite at the southern end of the village. Gavarnie has one or two food shops, a tourist information office, ATM, post office, and a Maison du Parc, and is reached by bus from Lourdes via Luz St-

Saveur.

Refuges REFUGE DES OULETTES DE GAUBE (2151m) is perfectly situated at the head of the Vallée de Gaube with a superb view of the Vignemale’s North Face. Owned by the CAF, it can sleep 85, and is manned from the end of May to the end of September (Tel 05 62 92 62 97 www.refugeoulettesdegaube.ffcam.fr ). REFUGE DE BAYSSELLANCE (2651m) is the highest staffed hut in the Pyrenees. Built in 1899, it has been refurbished without destroying its essential character. With places for 58, there’s a resident guardian from June to the end of October; bookings are essential (Tel 05 62 92 40 25 www.refugebayssellance.ffcam.fr ). As it’s convenient for ascents of the Vignemale by the Ossoue glacier, and is also on the path of the High Route and a variante of the GR10, the refuge is invariably crowded in summer. REFUGE LES GRANGES DE HOLLE (1495m) is a little too remote from the Vignemale to be used as a base for an ascent, but could be useful as a walking and/or climbing valley base. Owned by the CAF it is located outside Gavarnie on the way to the village ski station. Wardened all year except November, there are 50 places and meals provision (Tel 05 62 92 48 77 www.grangedeholle.free.fr ).

ROUTE 54

Pont d’Espagne (1496m) – Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (2151m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Pont d’Espagne (1496m) 7.5km 655m 2 2½–3hrs

Whether or not you intend to stay at the refuge, this pleasant walk provides a dramatic introduction to one of the most spectacular high mountain regions in the Pyrenees. Note The initial climb through woods from Pont d’Espagne may be avoided by riding the téléphérique.

The footpath begins on the downvalley side of the Pont d’Espagne bridge and is signed to Lac de Gaube and Refuge des Oulettes. Climbing above the road on the south side of the valley, the path snakes among conifer woods until emerging just before Lac de Gaube, a popular picnic site with a small hôtellerie above its northeast shore (1hr). Take the path round the northern end of the lake to join that which leads from the téléphérique , and bear left along the west bank. The path is clearly defined and maintained by the PNP, and at the southern end of the lake crosses the Oulettes stream by way of a footbridge where a waterfall gushes from the rocks. Nearby is a small unmanned refuge, Cabane du Pinet (1783m). Continue heading south to gain height without difficulty. As you progress the valley becomes more barren as first trees, then the lush vegetation of the lower valley, are traded for a wilderness of scattered boulders and patches of old snow. Then you top a rise with the flat glacial plain before you; the Vignemale stands regal ahead, having grown in stature as you drew closer to it. To the left of the glacial plain stands Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube.

ROUTE 55

Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (2151m) – Refuge de Bayssellance (2651m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (2151m) 3km 583m 83m 3 2½hrs

This linking of huts across the Hourquette d’Ossoue is adopted by both the Pyrenean High Route and as a variante of the GR10. There are splendid views of the great walls that overlook the Vallée de Gaube on the way to the pass, and from it a new valley system is revealed as you gaze towards the Cirque de Gavarnie. An ascent of Petit Vignemale (3032m) from the Hourquette d’Ossoue makes a recommended diversion (see Route 56 ).

The majestic North Face of the Vignemale, seen from near the Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (Routes 54, 55, 56)

The path to Hourquette d’Ossoue is obvious as it begins at the door of the Oulettes de Gaube refuge. It assumes a southeasterly direction, gaining height above the small valley-head plain. A fine view is projected into the Couloir de Gaube as you ascend in zigzags to a trail division, where the left fork climbs to Col d’Arraille (see Route 61 ). The main route continues south, now through a region of boulders with the Petit Vignemale seen directly ahead. In a little over

2hrs gain the col of Hourquette d’Ossoue (2734m), from where Refuge de Bayssellance is seen a short distance below. The path leads to it in 10–15mins.

ROUTE 56

Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (2151m) – Petit Vignemale (3032m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (2151m) 3.5km 881m F (via the Hourquette d’Ossoue; voie normale ) 3–3½hrs

Unless vertigo is a problem regular mountain walkers should experience no difficulties on this very easy ascent.

PETIT VIGNEMALE (3032M), ROUTE 56 Lowest of the four main peaks, the Petit Vignemale provides one of the easiest ascents of a 3000m summit in all the Pyrenees – it involves little more than a walk. However, the face which plunges to the Oulettes de Gaube is a very different undertaking and should only be attempted by climbers proficient in ropework. The 300m North Face Direct is a local classic, a serious route first climbed in 1958 by Couzy and Soubis, and graded ED- (V/V+/6a+). The Northeast Spur is another major route (TD/IV+), and at 700m is much longer than the North Face Direct. The face also attracts attention in winter when a system of goulottes (ice gullies) of around 350m is worth looking at.

Petit Vignemale, from the slopes of Pic des Oulettes

Follow directions to the Hourquette d’Ossoue (Route 55 , 2–2½hrs). Bear right (south) and ascend the ridge, keeping a little left of the actual crest. The route

is well trodden and easily followed, and reaches the summit in about 1hr from the pass. Note Since Hourquette d’Ossoue is only some 80m higher than the Bayssellance refuge, the ascent of Petit Vignemale from there is even shorter than that from Oulettes de Gaube.

ROUTE 57

Hourquette d’Ossoue (2734m) – Pointe Chausenque (3204m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Hourquette d’Ossoue (2734m) 1.5km 470m AD- (via the Petit Vignemale/Pointe Chausenque ridge) 2½hrs Rope

There are some impressive views to enjoy during this ascent, and one or two moderately exposed sections. Note With the north side of the mountain falling dramatically to the Oulettes de Gaube, this is not a route for anyone suffering vertigo.

POINTE CHAUSENQUE (3204M), ROUTE 57 Named after Vincent de Chausenque, the young army officer who made its first ascent in 1822, Pointe Chausenque is the highest Pyrenean summit entirely in France (the Franco–Spanish frontier crosses Pique Longue), and its voie normale is a popular outing for local climbers. As with the Petit Vignemale, the North Face and Northwest Spur (which overlook the Oulettes de Gaube) both hold technically difficult lines of around 700m, while the Couloir Arlaud-Souriac is reputed to be one of the finest goulottes in the Pyrenees which, when in condition, gives 600m of hard climbing (TD/IV+) of up to 70–80°.

Take Route 56 to the summit of the Petit Vignemale. It is then advisable to rope up before moving left and descending a short gully of only 4–5m. On gaining the ridge proper move along it for a few metres, keeping to the northwest side where there are footholds, then onto the crest itself until you come to a short, very steep descent pitch on the southeastern side above the Ossoue glacier. Climb down this pitch and continue along the ridge until you reach another descent pitch (grade III), longer than the last, but also on the southeastern side. Again follow the ridge until yet another descent has to be made, this time above the séracs of the Petit Vignemale’s glacier. The descent of this pitch is rather delicate (III+). When the ridge has been regained move along it with the aid of footholds on the right below the crest (handholds on the ridge), and then by way of brief ledges descend to the Col des Glaciers. Once at the col difficulties are mostly over. Climb along the southern slope below the ridge as far as point 3138m where the ridge bears more to the right, just north of west. From here to the summit of Pointe Chausenque, 250m distant and only 65m higher, simply follow along the crest itself.

To continue to the summit of Pique Longue , descend to the Ossoue glacier and walk to the final rock cone where a short scramble takes you to the top in a few minutes. To descend , go down onto the Ossoue glacier and return by the normal Vignemale route (Route 59 ) to the Bayssellance refuge (allow 2hrs).

ROUTE 58

Gavarnie (Barrage d’Ossoue, 1834m) – Refuge de Baysellance (2651m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Gavarnie (Barrage d’Ossoue, 1834m) 6km 817m 3 2½–3hrs

The easiest way to Refuge de Bayssellance from Gavarnie is to drive 8km of road and track through the Vallée d’Ossoue as far as a small dammed lake, and walk from there. An unmanned, simple refuge, Cabane d’Ossoue, is found near the dam. If walking all the way from Gavarnie, allow an extra 3hrs.

A well-marked path rises up the valley beyond the lake through the Oulettes d’Ossoue, crossing the stream and then climbing above its true right bank. Created by Henry Russell’s squad of grotto builders in the 19th century (see below) it skirts a gorge, crosses occasional snow patches, then climbs in zigzags to reach Russell’s three caves in view of the Ossoue glacier. Leading past the caves the trail climbs leftwards round a spur of mountain, soon after which the hut is seen above and to the right – a stone beehive on the hillside. RUSSELL AND THE VIGNEMALE To walk or climb in the vicinity of the Vignemale is to tread in the footsteps of Henry Russell, the most enthusiastic and romantic of mountaineers whose passion for the Pyrenees in general – and the Vignemale in particular – led to some curious acts of eccentricity. Count Henry Patrick Marie Russell-Killough (1834–1909) was born in Toulouse of an Irish father and French mother, and had his first sight of the Vignemale when, at the age of six, he walked from Cauterets to the Lac de Gaube. In his twenties he travelled widely, saw the Andes, the Gobi desert, Australia, New Zealand and the Himalaya, but on his return he wrote ‘After having seen so much grand nature, I expected to find the Pyrenees small. But on the contrary they seemed truly monstrous in height.’ From then on Russell set about exploring his local mountains, climbing everything of note, often by a new route and frequently solo. Yet it was to the Vignemale that he would return, climbing it at least 33 times, including the first winter ascent in February 1869. His love of the mountain is beyond question, but that love was expressed in strange ways. On 16 August 1880, for example, he placed himself in a shallow grave he and his guides had excavated on the very summit, and spent the night in it, alone ‘between the earth and the moon’ with only his head protruding above a covering of scree. This act of eccentricity led to a number of caves being hacked from the walls of the mountain where he entertained guests, held dinner parties and celebrated Mass. There were seven caves in all, three of which are seen near the snout of the Ossoue glacier: one for Russell to sleep in, one for his guides, and a third for any ladies who might join the party. The highest was made just 18m below the summit. Carpeted with straw and facing south, he called it Le Paradis, and it was there that he spent 17 days in mystic isolation.

In recognition of his peculiar attachment and devotion to the mountain, in 1889 the Barèges commune leased the Vignemale and its four summits to him (without right to forbid access) for a 99-year term at the princely sum of one franc per year. Clearly delighted, he wrote ‘It is certainly the highest estate in Europe and, despite its sterility, I would not exchange it for the finest in France.’ Russell’s literary legacy is the classic Souvenirs d’une Montagnard , but see also The Man who Married a Mountain by Rosemary Bailey (Bantam Books, 2005).

ROUTE 59

Refuge de Bayssellance (2651m) – Vignemale (3298m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time Equipment

Refuge de Bayssellance (2651m) 3.5km 879m 232m F (via the Ossoue glacier; voie normale ) 3hrs Rope, ice axe, crampons

Note There are plenty of crevasses and no one should tackle this route without taking normal safety precautions. Check with the hut guardian as to the condition of the glacier. If crevasses are open and dangerous to cross, it is advisable to ascend by the alternative route mentioned. The final rock scramble has some loose rock to contend with, so take care on this too.

PIQUE LONGUE (GRAND VIGNEMALE, 3298M), ROUTE 59 A splendid mountain with an alpine ambience , the Vignemale is one of the most popular in the Pyrenees. Under reasonable summer conditions the ascent by its voie normale makes a pleasant outing for those accustomed to glacier walking.

The Ossoue glacier, largest in the Pyrenees, flows down the east flank of the Vignemale

Leave the hut on the path which descends to Gavarnie. Shortly after passing Russell’s grottoes (see box above) another, narrower, path continues heading west across the steep slope below the Crête du Petit Vignemale. This is the path to take. It leads across scree to a moraine depository at the snout of the glacier. There may well be snow cover here early in the season. Cross below the séracs (caution advised: move fast to avoid danger from falling ice) and then move

onto the left-hand (southern) side of the glacier. Note If conditions are such that crevasses are dangerously open, do not go onto the icefield, but instead continue to gain the ridge which forms the southern boundary of the glacier. This is the Crête du Montferrat , which you climb along its glacier side until the upper basin is reached. Leave the Crête here and join the standard route across the basin. On the normal route go straight up the glacier, usually a little left of centre (its southern side), until the almost level snowfield of the upper basin is gained. Across the basin will be seen Pointe Chausenque and Pique Longue separated by a saddle that marks the head of the Couloir de Gaube. Cross to the foot of Pique Longue and choose a line on the final cone of rock that leads to the summit. Although there is plenty of loose rock, a modest scramble is usually all that is required to reach the top. Summit views are magnificent and far-reaching. Perhaps the most dramatic is that which gazes directly down onto the North Face, with the little grassy plain of Oulettes de Gaube appearing like a small patch of greenery far below. Allow 2hrs for the return to Refuge de Baysellance.

From the Vignemale’s summit you can peer down the steep north faces of Pointe Chausenque and Petit Vignemale

Seen from the Ossoue glacier, dawn breaks over a cloud-sea below the Cirque de Gavarnie OTHER CLIMBS ON THE VIGNEMALE AND ITS NEIGHBOURS

Not surprisingly the Vignemale attracts much attention from adventurous climbers. It therefore contains a variety of routes, which may be summarised by the following notes. The original ‘tourist’ route, known as the Prince de la Moskowa’s , is a scramble graded AD- following a long approach through the Ara valley. Although the route has lost its attraction of late, the Ara is a valley well worth exploring (see Route 60 below). Two expeditions using the Oulettes de Gaube hut, other than North Face climbs, are via the Clot de la Hount Couloir (a mixed outing with several passages of III and IV reached across the Col des Oulettes) and the fine ridge climb of the Arête de Gaube . This too is accessed from the Col des Oulettes, and is comparatively safe while at the same time giving the impression of a much more serious outing. It takes around 7hrs from hut to summit, and is graded AD. The North Face did not receive its first ascent until 1933, and all routes since then have been serious undertakings. The original route was made by Barrio and Bellocq. Graded D+ (IV+/V), this classic outing is about 800m long. To its right is the 800m North Spur (ED-/V+/6a/6b), reckoned to be one of the most advanced climbs on the mountain. Although it has its artificial pitches it is essentially a free line pioneered in 1965 by a rope led by the guide Patrice de Bellefon. Wedged between Pique Longue and Pointe Chausenque is the triangular block of Piton Carré (3197m), which has a very exposed TD line on its 600m North Face , approached via the Couloir de Gaube and pioneered in 1954 by the Ravier twins with J. Teillard. The Raviers also claimed the magnificent winter route of the Couloir en Y in a 2-day epic in March 1965. This is graded TD+ (V/V+/85°).

ROUTE 60

Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (2151m) – Col des Oulettes (2606m) – Torla (1033m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (2151m) 23km 455m 1573m 3 8hrs

This is a superb walk through the delightful, largely uninhabited Ara valley in Spain. By no means the easiest, quickest or most obvious route from a French centre to the mouth of the Ordesa National Park, it’s a mountain walk of unquestionable character, and one that best displays the contrast between the two sides of the Pyrenees. Although long it could be achieved in one day by fit mountain walkers. However, the Ara is a valley to savour, to wander in at leisure. To enjoy it to the full, take a small tent and provisions for a couple of days and tread the pastures without an eye on the clock. There are campsites at, and below, San Nicolás de Bujaruelo, about 5–6hrs from Oulettes de Gaube. There’s also refuge accommodation at San Nicolás, and a gîte some 2km further south towards Torla.

From the Oulettes refuge cross the glacial plain heading southwest towards the jumble of boulders at the base of Pic des Oulettes, and take the path which climbs on the left of the screes. When you come to a stream issuing from the hanging valley on the left, go up the left-hand side of it. Soon you will come to cairns and a vague path which leads to the obvious pass of Col des Oulettes (1½–2hrs) with the Arête de Gaube slanting off to the left and grand views in all directions. Go down to a stream below the pass and pick a route on its right-hand side as it spills through a narrow gully, the descent of which is not difficult, despite the fact that it’s fairly steep in places. At the base of the gully bear left across a field of diced rocks, then onto grass. Heading south now your vision is one of an untracked valley awaiting discovery. Keep on the left bank of the Rio Ara. For some way a barely perceived trail winds round bluffs and over hillocks above the Ara, and now and then a side stream is crossed where hanging rock gardens flourish in the spray. Then you lose height, descend a step in the valley bed and come to an enclosed area where the stream is diverted into two parts, each with its own character. The ‘enclosure’ is walled to the south by a natural barricade of rocks and boulders,

and in the distance is the first hint of Ordesa. The remainder, and greater part, of the valley is followed still on the left bank, crossing broad pastures below the Southwest and South Faces of the Vignemale, crossing minor hills and traversing the steep edge of a vegetated gorge before the treeline is finally reached. Some distance before reaching Bujaruelo the path comes onto a track which eventually crosses to the right bank of the now-swelling stream and reaches the tiny hamlet of San Nicolás de Bujaruelo (1338m). Here there’s camping and a refuge with 48 places (manned from March to the end of October Tel 974 486 412 www.refugiodebujaruelo.com ). Another campsite, and the gîte mentioned above, will be found by continuing down the track. To continue the main walk, leave the track, cross to the left bank and follow the GR11 path downvalley through beautiful woods and meadows in a narrowing gorge of steep cliffs. Rejoin the track a little over 2km from where the Ara emerges to the open valley of the Arazas at the Puente de los Navarros. Torla (a growing village of hotels, shops and three campsites – see Chapter 16 , Ordesa National Park) lies downvalley; the National Park of Ordesa lures off to the left. Note To extend this trek into a magnificent multi-day loop trip, walk up through the Ordesa Canyon to the Góriz hut, and next day pass through the Brèche de Roland and descend from there to Gavarnie. From Gavarnie walk through the Ossoue valley to the Refuge de Bayssellance, cross Hourquette d’Ossoue and descend to the Oulettes de Gaube hut. Complete the circuit by walking from there down to Cauterets. Individual sections of this magnificent trek are described elsewhere in this guide.

ROUTE 61

Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (2151m) – Refuge d’Estom (1804m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (2151m) 5km 432m 779m 3 2½–3hrs

The Vallée de Lutour runs parallel to the Vallée de Gaube, its waters bursting above La Raillère (in the Val de Jéret) in an explosion of spray. It’s an utterly charming glen, a little less popular than either the Marcadau or Gaube valleys, but no less delightful for that. Near its head there’s a small lake, Lac d’Estom, with a privately owned refuge perched above its northern shore. The hut can sleep 30, and there’s a guardian in residence from the beginning of June to the end of September when meals may be provided. For the rest of the valley see Chapter 8 . This walk is an obvious linking of huts by way of the 2583m Col d’Arraille.

From Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube head towards the Hourquette d’Ossoue (see Route 55 ). At the top of the zigzags where the path divides take the lefthand alternative (cairns), which climbs into a narrow hanging valley with a couple of small tarns in it. The way continues and reaches the stony Col d’Arraille between Pic d’Arraille and a spur jutting from Pic de la Sède. On the way to the col there are fine views back to the Vignemale. Pass through the col, heading northeast on a descending traverse, labouring over boulders and scree on a route marked with paint flashes. The path reappears as you lose height with zigzags before coming in view of the valley proper. Bearing left Lac d’Estom can be seen ahead. The trail leads directly to it, keeping above the western shore among boulder slabs before arriving at Refuge d’Estom (Tel 05 62 92 07 18). To descend all the way to Cauterets will take about 3hrs from here.

8 VALLÉE DE LUTOUR Above Cauterets, on the way to Pont d’Espagne, the thunder and spray of waterfalls fills the air as the Cascades de Lutour explode from dark woods. A path climbs alongside these cascades, while a narrow service road snakes back from the main Pont d’Espagne road, then labours into the Vallée de Lutour. Between service road and footpath the Gave de Lutour flows clear among pine and fir, but about 2km from the cascades the woods recede, the valley opens to a flood of light and the first hint of its gentle charm is revealed. The Vallée de Lutour is a delight of waterfall, meadow, lake and scree; a valley with seductive appeal, and one well worth exploring. Its access road ends by the small hôtellerie known as La Fruitière, from which you continue heading south, rising from one level to the next, sometimes among trees, but often wandering over open pastures bright with alpenrose and alpine flowers, and with the stream making its personality felt. For some way it is the Gave de Lutour that gives the valley its special quality of magic and at the same time forms the National Park boundary. The quintessential Pyrenean mountain stream, it is pure and tuneful among the shallows, boisterous as it froths over rocks and minor crags; some of the loveliest cascades imaginable are to be found here in the Vallée de Lutour. Near the head of this charming glen a small mountain hut sits on a bluff overlooking Lac d’Estom, while high above, in a rocky cirque, a collection of tarns lie amid scenes of remote wilderness. In the curving mountain walls that hold these tarns one or two high cols give access to the upper Vallée d’Ossoue and provide stunning views of the Vignemale. And while the peaks of Lutour may mean nothing to any but the most dedicated of Pyrénéistes, several are both graceful and elegant under any conditions, but take on a stature of some grandeur under a smattering of late-summer snow.

Lac d’Estom near the head of the Vallée de Lutour (Routes 63, 64)

ACCESS AND INFORMATION Location

South of Cauterets and immediately to the east of Vallée de Gaube. Easily reached by road or footpath from Cauterets. A minor access road enters the valley Access from Val de Jéret above la Raillère (sign to la Fruitière). IGN Carte de Randonnées No 3 ‘Béarn’, or No 4 ‘Bigorre’, both at 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 Maps series no: 1748OT ‘Gavarnie, Luz St-Sauveur’ 1:25,000 Base Cauterets (902m) Information Office de Tourisme, Cauterets (05 62 92 50 50 www.cauterets.com)

Base CAUTERETS (902m) is conveniently situated for an exploration of the Vallée de Lutour – especially for those with their own transport, for it only takes a few minutes to drive out of town and up into the valley. Cauterets has plenty of accommodation of all standards (see Chapters 6 and 7 ), a covered market, a good assortment of shops (including mountain equipment suppliers),

restaurants, banks, tourist information office (www.cauterets.com ), post office, Maison du Parc and a mountain guides bureau (05 62 92 62 02). A short way into the Vallée de Lutour, the Hôtellerie de la Fruitière makes a good base, providing accommodation in 8 rooms (Tel 05 62 42 13 53).

Refuges CABANE DE POUEY CAUT (1540m) is a small refuge found about 45mins walk upstream of La Fruitiere, with basic facilities and sleeping spaces for about eight. REFUGE RUSSELL (1980m) is another non-guarded hut, owned by the CAF, with only basic facilities and room for about 12. Perched high on the eastern hillside on the slopes of Pic d’Ardiden, it is reached by a steeply climbing path which breaks away from the valley trail just south of Cabane de Pouey Caut (www.clubalpin.tarbes.org ). REFUGE D’ESTOM (1804m) is privately owned and with room for 30 in its single dormitory. There’s a resident guardian from the beginning of June to the end of September (05 62 92 07 18) when meals may be supplied. The refuge is closed for the rest of the year, but there’s a simple hut nearby, which sleeps about eight, but has minimal facilities.

ROUTE 62

Cauterets (902m) – La Fruitière (1371m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Cauterets (902m) 4.5km 469m 2 1½hrs

For walkers without their own transport, this is an easy approach to the valley.

The route starts by sharing the path already described under Route 43 as far as La Raillère (30mins). From here cross the road towards the prominent Cascades de Lutour where a signed trail rises into the spray, crosses a footbridge and after climbing a short way, joins another path in the woods. Bear right and wander through woodland into the valley to reach La Fruitière, which stands on the opposite bank.

ROUTE 63

La Fruitière (1371m) – Refuge d’Estom (1804m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

La Fruitière (1371m) 5km 433m 2 1½hrs

This is a lovely valley walk to be taken at a leisurely pace. It draws you upvalley into a wonderland of streams, cascades, flowers and shrubs, neat woods, open pastures and fine views. Make a full day of it. Spend part of the morning exploring the valley, enjoy lunch at the refuge overlooking the lake (refreshments available when open), and then wander slowly down again. Keep alert for sight of izard and marmots.

Refuge d’Estom

From the parking area at La Fruitière cross the bridge over the Gave de Lutour in front of the hôtellerie and follow a clear path upvalley. The route needs no detailed description for it’s virtually impossible to lose the way. It rises from one level to the next, passes a beautiful cascade, crosses the stream again to the west bank and climbs once more among tall conifers to pass more cascades. The final rise hides the refuge from view until a couple of minutes before you actually reach it. Overlooking the lake from the head of the valley are Pic de la Sède (2976m) and Pic de Labas (2946m).

Allow a little over 1hr for the return to La Fruitière.

ROUTE 64

Refuge d’Estom (1804m) – Lac Glacé (2571m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refuge d’Estom (1804m) 5km 767m 3 2–2½hrs

A rough granite cirque high above Lac d’Estom to the southeast has captured more than a dozen tarns and transitory ponds. Note This walk is quite demanding and not always with a path to follow, although there are paint flashes and the odd cairn as guidance. Because of this – and the nature of the terrain – it is advisable to choose a clear-weather day to tackle it.

From the start there’s a choice of route alongside Lac d’Estom. The east-bank option is narrow and the path grows vague at its southern end, but cairns guide you along the left-hand side of a stream and aim towards the centre of the valley. The west-bank alternative is clearer, but make sure you take the lower of two paths alongside the lake. At the southern end the path crosses towards the centre of the valley and joins the east-bank option.

Winter conditions in the high basin above Lac d’Estom

Towards the head of the glen veer left (waymarks) to cross the stream issuing from cascades that spray down the slabs ahead. A path now climbs in a circuitous route up broken slopes at the southeastern end of the valley.

Beware of snow patches in early summer. Soon traverse right beneath a large overhang, then beyond this rise over increasingly rough country, led by clear waymarks throughout. About 1½hrs from the refuge you will come to the first of the tarns, Lac de Labas (2281m) nestling among stony scoops and hollows. Go round its lefthand side and rise up a spur above Lac des Oulettes d’Estom Soubiran, heading southeast. Passing to the right of more tarns and ponds follow a stream up to Lac Glacé nestling beneath Soum d’Aspe (2968m). Note It could be worth scrambling up to Col des Gentianes, seen above the tarn to the southwest, for a view of the Vignemale.

ROUTE 65

La Fruitière (1371m) – Refuge Russell (1980m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

La Fruitière (1371m) 4.5km 609m 3 2hrs

This is a steep walk, most of which is in forest shade. Note Since the hut has only very basic facilities you’ll need to carry food and cooking equipment if you plan to spend a night there.

Wander upvalley along the main path which leads along the eastern side of the Gave de Lutour. In about 45mins pass Cabane de Pouey Caut on the left of the path, soon after which the way crosses a side stream. A signpost here directs you left onto a narrow trail known as the Sentier Falisse. Follow this in its steep climb, eased in places with zigzags among much vegetation, to gain Refuge Russell. PIC D’ARDIDEN (2988M), ROUTE 65 Above the hut Pic d’Ardiden (2988m) is a noted viewpoint. This may be reached in about three strenuous hours from the refuge, with 3½hrs needed for the descent to La Fruitière. The Southeast Pillar of this granite mountain gives a recommended 200m climb, graded D, but is approached not from the Vallée de Lutour, but from the little Vallée de Badet southwest of Luz St-Saveur. OTHER ROUTES

Another lake walk in the Vallée de Lutour climbs the western hillside from a point just south of the bridge which takes the main path over to the true left bank of the Gave de Lutour. A cairn marks the point where you leave the main path. The two Lacs d’Estibe Aute are found high above the valley at an altitude of 2324m and 2328m, and are reached in about 3½hrs from La Fruitière. A rewarding 2-day circuit, beginning and ending in Cauterets, could be achieved by linking the Vallée de Lutour with Vallée de Gaube by way of the 1583m Col d’Arraille . Follow routes already described as far as Refuge d’Estom, and continue upvalley on the upper of two paths leading above the western shore of the lake. This rises along the flanks of Pic de l’Estibet d’Estom and Pic d’Arraille and eventually crosses Col d’Arraille.

Descend on the western side of the col to Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube and continue heading north through Vallée de Gaube to Pont d’Espagne, and from there down to Cauterets. Overnight possibilities in either Refuge d’Estom or Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube. The crossing of Col d’Arraille is given (in reverse order) as Route 61 .

9 GAVARNIE The Cirque de Gavarnie is the best-known landscape feature in all the Pyrenees, Gavarnie the most-visited village. Daily throughout the summer it receives a flood of tourist pilgrims drawn by the reputation of an incomparable backdrop that never fails to impress. The great amphitheatre of rock, snow and ice is, quite simply, unique, despite there being several other fine cirques nearby. Just 4km from the village, the Cirque de Gavarnie is an extraordinary presence, and though Gavarnie itself may have little charm, no walker or climber should ignore the variety of routes that await exploration here. The Parc National des Pyrénées naturally includes the Cirque de Gavarnie, and forms a link with Spain’s Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido. Recognising the quality of the landscape, the two regions have been included on the UNESCO World Heritage List; a cross-border entity amounting to 30,634ha known as ‘Pyrenees Mont-Perdu, Cirques and Canyons’. The amphitheatre crest is more than 1400m above the valley floor, while the near-vertical walls consist of three bands of cliffs broken by two horizontal tiers of snow and ice. Waterfalls stream down the face, with the 423m of the Grande Cascade (claimed to be the highest in Europe) being a prominent feature. Gavarnie has been at the heart of Pyrénéisme for two centuries, and today the cirque walls continue to attract major players in the Pyrenean climbing scene – especially in winter when local activists are able to take advantage of the often unpredictable weeks when prime conditions appear. This is dangerous territory, though, for avalanches threaten for much of the winter. The crowning ridge forms the frontier, along which there are a number of summits in excess of 3000m. When viewed from Gavarnie these are (from left to right): the two Astazou peaks (3071m and 3012m) that take on the appearance of an open book; Pic du Marboré (3248m), and the three Pics de la Cascade (3161m, 3095m and 3073m) above the ribbon of the Grande Cascade (whose source is beyond the frontier). Then comes a fairly level section broken by the lump of the Tour du Marboré (3009m), and to the west of that the Casque du Marboré (3006m) buttresses the great cleft of the Brèche de Roland (hidden from Gavarnie) which is the classic gateway to Spain and a convenient route to many of the summits of the cirque. Beyond and above the brèche the frontier rises in the pyramid-shaped Taillon (3144m), after which there’s just the twin Pics des Gabiétous (3031m and 3034m) before the ridge dips to the Port de Boucharo. The Gavarnie district is well suited to mountain enthusiasts of all degrees of commitment. The hard rock-and-ice man has the walls of the cirque. The general mountaineer, to whom summits are the aim rather than specific

problems of ascent, has a variety of peaks offering worthwhile expeditions. The walker can enjoy local trails, side valleys or multi-day treks across the frontier. Even the indolent lover of fine scenery whose ambitions are satisfied by a glass of beer, a marble-topped table shaded by a large umbrella and a dramatic view that requires no effort to enjoy, will find the bars and cafés of Gavarnie sufficient to make the visit memorable. And of course, the general tourist will make the hour-long trek by donkey, pony or mule to the Hôtellerie du Cirque as part of a tradition that goes back to the foundations of tourism.

The Cirque de Gavarnie

The Grande Cascade, claimed to be Europe’s highest waterfall, is a feature of the Cirque de Gavarnie

There’s something for everyone in and around Gavarnie. ACCESS AND INFORMATION South of Lourdes, at the head of the valley of the Gave de Pau. The cirque headwall carries the Franco–Spanish border. By road from Lourdes via Argelès-Gazost and Luz St-Sauveur. SNCF buses run from Lourdes Access to Luz St-Sauveur (change at Pierrefitte-Nestalas). An infrequent private bus service goes from Luz to Gavarnie. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 4 ‘Bigorre’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 series no: 1748OT Maps ‘Gavarnie, Luz St-Sauveur’ 1:25,000 Base Gavarnie (1365m) Information Office de Tourisme, Gavarnie (05 62 92 49 10 www.summer.gavarnie.com) Location

Base GAVARNIE (1365m) Despite its historic associations and tourist appeal, the village has little architectural elegance. However, for the indiscriminate

mountain lover whose interests lie in landscapes rather than urban development, it will do as a holiday base. There are several hotels, chambres d’hôte (B&B), three mountain refuges, a gîte d’étape (Le Gypaëte Tel 05 62 92 40 61), and a basic campsite at its southern end. The village has several cafés, a small foodstore, post office, tourist information office (www.summer.gavarnie.com , an interesting Maison du Parc with an ATM adjacent, and a Bureau des Guides (05 62 92 49 10). There’s pay & display parking at the village entrance, and a smaller parking area in the village itself. Although it may be crowded by day, once the cars and coaches have left the charm of the village is greatly enhanced.

Refuges REFUGE LES GRANGES DE HOLLE (1495m) is located west of the village on the road leading to the Port de Boucharo. Owned by the Lourdes section of the CAF it is manned throughout the year, except November (Tel 05 62 92 48 77 www.grangedeholle.free.fr ). There are dormitory places for 50 and meals provision. REFUGE DES ESPUGUETTES (2027m) is a PNP hut with 54 places, set on the southeastern hillside about 2hrs’ walk above Gavarnie, and manned from midJune to mid-September (Tel 05 62 92 40 63 www.refuge-desespuguettes.blogspot.com ). REFUGE DE LA BRÈCHE (2587m) – also known as Refuge des Sarradets – is owned by the Tarbes section of the CAF. As its name suggests, it’s situated just below the Brèche de Roland and is very heavily used throughout the summer. With 57 places, the hut is manned from May until the end of September, and at weekends in October (Tel 05 62 36 93 23 www.refugebrechederoland.ffcam.fr ).

ROUTE 66

Gavarnie (1365m) – Plateau de Bellevue (1720m) – Gavarnie

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Gavarnie (1365m) 6km 355m 355m 2 2hrs

Some of the loveliest views of the Cirque de Gavarnie are to be had from the Plateau de Bellevue on the west flank of the valley, and this circular route makes the most of them. Although it’s only a short 2hr walk, it would be worth taking a picnic and making a day of it.

On the Plateau de Bellevue

Begin by going to the 12th-century village church, in whose cemetery lie several pioneers of Pyrenean mountain history. Continue heading south beyond the church where a stony path rises gently between meadows, then alongside mixed woodland. After about 20mins the path begins to climb in zigzags with views of the Cirque de Gavarnie growing in extent, and 30mins

later you emerge onto the sloping pastures of the Plateau de Bellevue. In another 5mins the path forks, just beyond and below the little shelter of the Cabane de Pouey Aspé. Views from here are tremendous, for most of the amphitheatre headwall is on show, its full height well displayed. Take the left branch to descend through pastures dotted with low-growing juniper, then cross a footbridge over the Gave des Tourettes immediately above a cascade. Over the bridge the path swings leftward down a steep wooded slope among pine, beech and birch, with wild roses and raspberries beside the trail. About 25–30mins from the Plateau de Bellevue come to another path junction. To visit the Cirque de Gavarnie continue ahead (30mins to the hôtellerie near the foot of the Grande Cascade). To return to Gavarnie, bear left. Shortly after cross a second footbridge, beyond which the path slopes gently down to a large flat meadow with more great views. On the north side of the meadow the way forks yet again. Both routes return to Gavarnie; the right-hand option is the easiest, while the left branch rises to a gap in some rocks (the Turon de la Courade, burial place of Franz Schrader and Louis le Bondidier), then descends past a grange (barn) to eventually join the main track by the Bar de Pailha. Keep ahead to arrive in the village about 1hr after leaving the Plateau de Bellevue.

ROUTE 67

Gavarnie (1365m) – Hôtellerie du Cirque (1570m) – Gavarnie

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Gavarnie (1365m) 8km 383m 383m 2 4hrs

Although the first part of this circular route – as far as the Hôtellerie du Cirque – is inevitably shared with a procession of ponies and mules, views of the cirque make it a visually exciting walk. The return along the eastern hillside restores a degree of solitude.

From the village street take the track heading south towards the cirque. It’s impossible to lose the way for it’s well cairned with mule dung! That being said, it is a scenically delightful walk: the track bordered at first by meadows rich in wild flowers early in summer, then across the stream-washed Plateau de la Prade, the towering walls of the cirque growing more dramatic by the minute. In 1hr you reach the hôtellerie , which stands a short distance from the Grande Cascade within the massive amphitheatre. On the east side of the building a signed path cuts back to the northeast, climbing to a slightly exposed contour among trees and against overhanging cliffs, before coming to a more open hillside which is part of the Plateau de Pailla. In the early summer the meadows are full of flowers. Just beyond a chalet come to a junction of paths and turn left to descend to Gavarnie, reaching the valley a little south of the campsite.

ROUTE 68

Gavarnie (1365m) – Refuge des Espuguettes (2027m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Gavarnie (1365m) 4km 662m 2–3 2hrs

The panoramic view of the Cirque de Gavarnie from the PNP-owned Refuge des Espuguettes is quite different from, but no less dramatic than, the better-known full-frontal aspect illustrated on so many postcards. The walk to the refuge, which makes an atmospheric night’s lodging, is steep in places, but not overly demanding.

Evening clouds gather round the Cirque de Gavarnie as walkers rest outside Refuge des Espuguettes

Leave Gavarnie heading south towards the cirque. About 500m beyond the campsite, a signed path by a house breaks away from the main track to climb the left-hand hillside. Rising without difficulty it soon enters woodland and climbs in zigzags as far as a trail junction on the Plateau de Pailla. Bear left, now rising across open pastures with good views, and shortly after entering the National Park, the path forks again. The right branch goes to the Cabane de Pailla. The Espuguettes trail swings left in a northerly sweep, gains more height and then heads back to the southeast to gain the refuge, from which there’s a very fine panorama.

ROUTE 69

Gavarnie (1365m) – Refuge des Espuguettes (2027m) – Piméné (2801m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Gavarnie (1365m) 7km 1416m F 4–4½hrs

With plenty of height to gain, you are advised to make an early start in order to break the back of the climb before the sun is high. Note In early summer snow may still be lying on the upper ridge, in which case caution is needed.

PIMÉNÉ (2801M), ROUTE 69 An ascent of the Piméné on a fine-weather day will almost always be worth tackling for the extensive panorama its summit affords. It is, quite simply, one of the finest that can be gained without major difficulties. An insignificant peak – so far as altitude is concerned – it’s perfectly situated on the ridge separating Gavarnie’s valley from that of Estaubé to show not only the Cirque de Gavarnie, but also the Cirque d’Estaubé, peaks of the Troumouse cirque, Monte Perdido (Mont Perdu), and the Vignemale.

Follow Route 68 as far as Refuge des Espuguettes and continue beyond it on the path which climbs eastward, with the ridge linking Piméné with Pic Rouge de Pailla forming a barrier ahead. The path divides at about 2260m. Take the left branch signed to the Petit Piméné, now heading roughly north, then by zigzags gain the ridge at Col de Piméné (2522m) where you cross to the eastern side. The alternative crosses Hourquette d’Alans. Continue in a northerly direction (cairns) to regain the ridge just north of the Petit Piméné, and follow the steep crest to the main summit. Allow 3hrs for the descent to Gavarnie.

ROUTE 70

Gavarnie (Col de Tentes, 2208m) – Pic de Tentes (2322m) – Pic de la Pahule (2292m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Gavarnie (Col de Tentes, 2208m) 2.5km c145m c30m 1–2 1hr

This short and easy walk leads to another acclaimed panoramic view of the Cirque de Gavarnie and surrounding peaks.

Drive up the road leading to the Port de Boucharo, passing through the Gavarnie–Gèdre ski station of Les Espécières, and park where the road is now blocked at Col de Tentes. The path begins on the left (east side) of the road, and strikes up an obvious ridge, with excellent views of the North Face of Le Taillon to the right. The summit of Pic de Tentes, with its orientation table, is easily gained in 20–25mins. Continuing northeastward the path now descends to a grassy saddle, then keeps ahead on a gentle undulation on the south side of the crest, dips to a second saddle, then rises up the left-hand slope of Pic de la Pahule. This section of path is fairly narrow and with a couple of slightly tricky steps, but it brings you to within a few paces of the domed summit. Only Pic des Sarradets interrupts a complete panoramic view of the Cirque de Gavarnie, from the Grand Astazou in the east to Pic de Gabiétous in the west.

From the summit of Pic de Tentes you gain a fine view of Pic du Marboré and a large portion of the Cirque de Gavarnie

Allow 1hr for a return to Col de Tentes by the same route.

ROUTE 71

Gavarnie (1365m) – Refuge de la Brèche (2587m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Gavarnie (1365m) 6km (via the Vallée de Pouey Aspé) 1222m 3 3½hrs

Before the building of the road to the Port de Boucharo, this was the normal route of approach to the Refuge de la Brèche – the ascent of the so-called Échelle des Sarradets (Route 73 ) being rather more demanding than this. Note The climb out of the Vallée de Pouey Aspe is strenuous and demands a little care.

Follow Route 66 as far as the path junction on the lovely Plateau de Bellevue. Do not fork left but continue rising across the pastures heading southwest into the valley cut by the Tourettes stream. The path takes you through a stony corridor below the rock lump of Pic de la Pahule, and eventually breaks left to cross the Gave des Tourettes. Over this, climb in zigzags, heading south. In places the path fades. It swings to the east and crosses a stream, then climbs steeply on scree. Having gained about 450m from the Vallée des Pouey Aspé, join a crossing path (from Port de Boucharo – Route 72 ) and turn left to pass below the Taillon glacier on snow patches and glacial debris. Go through a rocky area and round to the Col des Sarradets (2589m) from which the strange folds of the cirque walls are clearly displayed. The hut is seen a short distance below the col.

ROUTE 72

Col de Tentes (2208m) – Port de Boucharo (2270m) – Refuge de la Brèche (2587m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Col de Tentes (2208m) 5.5km 379m 2–3 2hrs

For visitors with their own transport this is the most convenient route to the Brèche hut. Vehicles should be left at the Col de Tentes (see Route 70 ).

Walk along the continuing road to the Port de Boucharo. At the frontier pass the signed trail is an obvious one which heads a little south of east below the Pics de Gabiétous and Taillon. The North Face of the Taillon is especially impressive, despite severe foreshortening. After rising gradually above the valley for about 2km, the path then climbs more steeply and is joined by the trail from the Vallée de Pouey Aspe (see Route 71 ) below the shrinking Taillon glacier. The way climbs steeply up the side of a waterfall/stream with chains for assistance, then guided by cairns it zigzags below the crags of Pic des Sarradets (on the left) to gain a high saddle at about 2590m. From here the refuge is clearly seen a few minutes’ walk ahead.

ROUTE 73

Gavarnie (1365m) – Refuge de la Brèche (2587m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Gavarnie (1365m) 7km (via Échelle des Sarradets) 1222m 3 4hrs

Although this, the third of our approach routes to the Refuge de la Brèche, is both the longest and most difficult, in many ways it’s also the finest, for it allows a close inspection of the cirque walls and is more typical of an Alpine hut approach than a Pyrenean one. A disadvantage is that the first hour or so is shared with the procession of ponies and mules, a carnival that will either amuse or appal (Packe described those who rode to the cirque as having ‘indolence and bad taste’). Note The ‘échelle’ is also steep and exposed, so this route is not recommended for walkers of limited experience, or for those carrying a big rucksack.

Follow Route 67 as far as the Hôtellerie du Cirque (1hr), beyond which a path leads on, crosses a stream by a footbridge and curves southwest towards the western base of the cirque wall. The climb begins soon after and is guided by paint flashes. A series of steps have been cut in places to facilitate the ascent up rocky terraces (caution when wet), leading to grass slopes. Before heading through the steep little Vallon des Sarradets, walled to the north by the cliffs of Pic des Sarradets, you should pause to admire the view across the cirque to Pic de Marboré and the ribbon of the Grande Cascade. Without difficulty the path now rises westward through the valley, bears left to pass through a ‘gateway’ of rock and continues to the hut over low stony terraces. BRÈCHE DE ROLAND (2807M) This notable gap in the frontier ridge, about 40m across and with walls 100m high, is the key to many climbs and trans-frontier walking routes. Legend has it that the hero Roland, nephew of the great Charlemagne, attempted to break his sword on the rock rather than have it fall into the hands of the ‘Saracen’ army in AD788; but instead of the sword breaking the rock wall split, thus enabling Roland to escape. Geological fact is more prosaic. A section of this thin, heavily eroded ridge simply collapsed – without the assistance of either Roland or his sword. Between the refuge and the brèche a tiny glacier that formerly added a certain character to the scene, has all but disappeared, leaving walkers to climb to the brèche up a rib of old moraine. But caution is advised when wet, or covered with snow and/or ice. Allow about 40mins from the refuge to the Brèche de Roland. The brèche itself is remarkable, not only for its curiosity value, but for the astonishing contrast of scenery. Gazing north the mountains are full of drama as they stretch off towards the foothills. There’s vegetation in the valleys and on the hillsides, and the peaks are rugged and dashed with snow. But turning to the south, one is confronted by a foreground of decay, a desert of barren rock and scree. The middle ground provides

a hint of Ordesa, for the bald-topped hills are cleft with the lip of Europe’s answer to the Grand Canyon. Yet far-off, sun-baked sierras recede into the bewildering haze of mainland Spain. Pic Bazillac (2972m) walls the brèche to the west and offers some short, sharp rock climbs, particularly from the south. At its Spanish base a low cave offers emergency shelter. About 1km away to the southeast is the entrance to the ice world of Grotte Casteret, named after the man who discovered this complex of high ice caves in 1926 (see Ten Years Under the Earth by Norbert Casteret). Note Do not attempt to explore Grotte Casteret without full caving equipment.

ROUTE 74

Refuge de la Brèche (2587m) – Pic du Marboré (3248m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refuge de la Brèche (2587m) 6km 661m F+ (voie normale ) 3½–4hrs

This route to the summit of Pic du Marboré is scenically dramatic whilst being comparatively easy.

PIC DU MARBORÉ (3248M), ROUTE 74 Pic du Marboré is the highest peak around the Cirque de Gavarnie, a prominent domed summit at the cirque’s southeast corner.

From the hut wander up to the Brèche de Roland and pass through to the Spanish side. Bear left and descend below Le Casque on a path that hugs the mountain wall. Very narrow in places, it’s safeguarded by a fixed handrail. Continue until you see an obvious saddle (Col des Izards) to the right. At the end of the wall bear left and begin to climb, sometimes on snow, following a path to a wide terrace shelving the southern slopes of the Tour du Marboré. When you reach a short chimney on the left, indicated by a cairn, climb its left-hand wall, above which it opens onto an upper terrace. Turn right along this, heading eastward, then go left to the edge of the Cirque de Gavarnie which you then follow, with suitably dramatic views, as far as Col de la Cascade, immediately in front of l’Epaule. Cairns mark a path continuing eastward, moving away from the lip of the cirque towards the huge lump of Cilindro. Follow the cairns until you reach a point about halfway between the Col and Cilindro. Leave the path and bear left along the slope broken by boulders and patches of snow, then mount the bald southern slopes of Pic du Marboré heading a little west of north. The summit is gained without difficulty. Allow 2½–3hrs to return to the hut.

Pic du Marboré from the Brèche de Roland

ROUTE 75

Refuge de la Brèche (2587m) – Tour du Marboré (3009m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refuge de la Brèche (2587m) 3km 422m F (voie normale ) 2½hrs

This route offers an easy but popular excursion from the refuge.

TOUR DU MARBORÉ (3009M), ROUTE 75 The Tour is not so much a peak as a lump along the cirque’s skyline, but the ascent of its North Face by Jean Ravier and Claude Dufourmantelle in 1956 was one of the landmarks in Pyrenean climbing history.

Follow Route 74 , but on reaching the lip of the cirque east of the Tour, turn left and head westward along the cliff edge. The way rises steadily to ascend the Tour’s unimpressive slopes, the summit being reached with ease.

ROUTE 76

Refuge de la Brèche (2587m) – Casque du Marboré (3006m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refuge de la Brèche (2587m) 2km 419m F (voie normale ) 2hrs

This route could easily be combined with ascents of both the Tour and the Pic du Marboré.

CASQUE DU MARBORÉ (3006M), ROUTE 76 The Casque du Marboré guards the cleft of the Brèche de Roland by forming its left-hand (eastern) wall. The ascent by this route makes it one of the easiest 3000m summits accessible from the refuge.

Follow Route 74 through the brèche and traverse round the southern wall of the Casque onto the slopes sweeping between it and the Tour. Turn left and scramble over rough, mixed slopes of snow and jumbled boulders a little below the summit of the Casque. Rocks then lead up to the summit on your right, from where views are among the finest of all those in the Cirque de Gavarnie.

ROUTE 77

Refuge de la Brèche (2587m) – Pic du Taillon (3144m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refuge de la Brèche (2587m) 2km 557m F (voie normale ) 2hrs

This ascent is little more demanding than a high mountain walk.

Climb through the Brèche de Roland and take a little path that skirts to the right, heading west towards the False Brèche, an obvious cleft in the wall bordered by a single rock pillar known as the Doigt. Pass through the cleft to the northern side and resume a westerly direction. The way rises along the uncomplicated east ridge of the Taillon to the summit itself. PIC DU TAILLON (3144M), ROUTE 77 Le Taillon has the reputation of being the easiest of all the Pyrenean 3000m peaks. The ascent by the voie normale is recommended for the splendour of its summit views, which for extent and variety challenge even those from the Casque (see Route 76 ). Unimpeded by other crowding mountains, the Vignemale dominates the scene to the northwest. Eastward, most of the summits of the cirque are clearly defined, and both Cilindro and Monte Perdido nearby look very fine. GAVARNIE CLIMBS

The walls of the Cirque de Gavarnie have become a Mecca for climbers in winter as in summer, and a huge number of routes have been developed there. The following is just a sample. The triangular 700m-high North Face of Pic du Taillon was climbed in 1895 by Henri Brulle and Célestin Passet, and received its first winter ascent in December 1954 by Clos, Sauton and Escalona. It has now become one of Gavarnie’s classic winter routes, graded AD+ (55°). As mentioned above, the North Face of the Tour du Marboré (TD+, V+/6a/6b) is one of the great climbs of the cirque, but is now flanked by ED lines that also have an attraction. The 1200m of the Mur de la Cascade , comprising all three tiers of the cirque wall, has a number of variations, all of which are serious undertakings. Starting a little left of the Grande Cascade, the 1600m Direct on the Pic du Marboré was completed in 1947, and

although the overall grade is not more than D+, it’s a very long route that requires good conditions. Mention should also be made of Pic des Sarradets , the 2739m wedge of a peak that stands immediately north of the Brèche hut. Approached in just 15mins, its south-facing wall has a great number of routes of all degrees of difficulty, of anything from 100–200m in length. Summer evenings see activists swarming over the crags, entertainment for non-climbers based at the hut. In winter, when the cirque walls are glazed with ice, some terrific routes have been created by local activists from both sides of the border; activity that increased by leaps and bounds from the late 1970s on. Dominique Julien was at the forefront of development, his routes setting a very high standard; see Pyrénées: Courses Mixtes, Neige et Glace by Francis Mousel (Éditions Franck Mercier, 1997) and Passages Pyrénéens by Rainier Munsch, Christian Ravier and Rémi Thivel (Éditions du Pin à Crochets, 1999).

ROUTE 78

Refuge de la Brèche (2587m) – Refugio de Góriz (2170m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refuge de la Brèche (2587m) 7km 220m 637m 3 2½–3hrs

This hut-to-hut route is justifiably popular with mountain walkers, for it forms part of a grand circuit of the Gavarnie/Ordesa regions (see Other Routes below). Despite the rather barren, desolate scenery just south of the Brèche de Roland, there’s no shortage of landscape interest.

From the Spanish side of the Brèche de Roland the fragile nature of the frontier crest is revealed (Routes 74–78)

Climb to the Brèche de Roland and cross into Spain. Heading south descend through a jumble of boulders and scree and then, having lost a little over 100m, veer left (southeast) to pass through the saddle of Cuello del Descargador (2495m). The cuello, or col, lies to the north of the bare domed ‘hill’ of El Descargador (2622m) and the continuing route takes you down into the flat wastes of the Plana de San Ferlus, whose streams flow off to the Cotatuero cirque and thence into Ordesa.

Crossing streams traverse this plain heading southeast, and rise again on the far side to gain the Cuello (or Collado) de Millaris (2467m). Now walk down the path which heads below white limestone cliffs on the Faja Luenga, coming to the slopes of Cilindro and Perdido, soon with the Góriz hut appearing below. Refugio de Góriz (or Gaulis) has 90 places, is staffed throughout the year with meals provision (Tel 974 341 201 www.fames.es ). For further details and routes within the Ordesa National Park see Chapter 16 . OTHER ROUTES

Several very fine multi-day treks can be made from Gavarnie. The following list is merely a sample. The 3–4 day Gavarnie – Ordesa – Gavarnie circuit is one of the great Pyrenean tours that enjoys magnificent scenery, a huge variety of landscapes and first-class trekking. The first stage goes from Gavarnie to the Refuge de la Brèche by one of the three routes described above. The second stage crosses through the Brèche de Roland and makes for Refugio de Góriz (Route 78); the next section descends into and through the Ordesa Canyon, then wanders into the Ara valley as far as San Nicolás de Bujaruelo where there’s refuge accommodation (see Route 60 ). The final stage climbs to the Port de Boucharo for a return to France, with descent through the Vallée des Pouey Aspé back to Gavarnie. A 2–3 day frontier crossing from Gavarnie to Bielsa is another recommended route for experienced mountain trekkers. It begins by taking Route 68 from Gavarnie to Refuge des Espuguettes, and continues above the hut to cross the 2430m Hourquette d’Alans. Just below the pass branch right (southeast) towards the Cirque d’Estaubé, and before long climb an obvious gully that leads to the Brèche de Tuquerouye (2666m) in which there’s a small unmanned refuge – the oldest in the Pyrenees – with a tremendous view of the Northeast Face of Monte Perdido. Descend into a hanging valley, then follow a zigzag trail down the steep face of the Circo de Pineta into the charming Valle de Pineta, at whose southern end lies the village of Bielsa. For a 2-day circuit entirely in France, there’s a very fine trek made by linking Gavarnie’s valley with the adjacent Estaubé glen. Gavarnie – Estaubé – Gloriettes – Gavarnie is less demanding than the two previous routes, but enjoys the ambience of another glorious valley, and terrific views from unexpected places. Follow Route 68 to Refuge des Espuguettes, then cross Hourquette d’Alans and descend into the upper reaches of the Estaubé glen. Head north through the valley as far as Lac des Gloriettes. At the dam end of the lake take a signed trail northwest across the Plateau de Coumely, then continue round the hillside above the valley of the Gave de Pau on the path which brings you down into the

valley a little north of Gavarnie.

10 ESTAUBÉ, TROUMOUSE AND BARROUDE East of the Cirque de Gavarnie on the northern side of the watershed two other great mountain amphitheatres are worthy of a visit. The first is that of Estaubé at the head of its quiet glen, the second being Troumouse, the largest of the three cirques above the hamlet of Héas. Neither receives as much publicity as their more illustrious neighbour and are therefore shunned by the vast majority of Gavarnie’s visitors – which is unquestionably to their advantage. Both will reward exploration. The Cirque de Estaubé encloses the head of a relatively short glen partially hidden from general view behind the barrage that holds back Lac des Gloriettes halfway along the Vallée de Héas. The Cirque de Troumouse is much more open, and lying southeast of the little hamlet of Héas is the largest in the Pyrenees, measuring 10km from end to end; a wild place of rough pastures, tiny pools, streams and rock walls. There is another cirque that is less-known even than these, a small amphitheatre, remote and secluded and with a charm all its own. Barroude is visited by trekkers on the Pyrenean High Route, and by rock climbers attracted to its dominant wall, but otherwise it is largely ignored. Its major feature is the vast Barroude Wall which is, in effect, the eastern side of the Cirque de Troumouse. Lakes lie below the rock face, and on a grassy mound there’s a PNP hut with another tarn behind it. To the northeast hinted valleys cut through converging ridges; to the south, over the shale hump of Port de Barroude, lies the Circo de Barrosa in Spain, below which the snaking Valle de Barrosa flows out to join the Cinca, and a Spain far removed from these wild but enchanted uplands. This is trekkers’ country, but it also holds challenge for the rock man. It’s a dreamer’s landscape too; a corner of high country where time may be held immobile, a place to sit and become absorbed by the isolation and untarnished simplicity of the mountain world. ACCESS AND INFORMATION East of Gavarnie along the frontier ridge, and spreading north from it. The cirques of Estaubé and Troumouse drain via the Gave de Héas into the Gave de Gavarnie at Gèdre, while the Cirque de Barroude forms the eastern wall of the Cirque de Troumouse. By minor road heading southeast from Gèdre through Vallée de Héas for Estaubé and Access Troumouse. There’s no direct road access to Barroude, which is reached by a long approach march from either Aragnouet in the Vallée d’Aure, or by a cross-country trek from Héas. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 4 ‘Bigorre’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 series nos: 17480OT Maps ‘Gavarnie, Luz St-Sauveur’ and 1748ET ‘Néouvielle, Vallée d’Aure’ 1:25,000 Bases Gèdre (1071m), Héas (1500m) for Estaubé and Troumouse; none for Barroude Office de Tourisme, Gèdre (Tel 05 62 92 48 05 www.gedre.stationverte.com Information www.summer.gavarnie.com) Location

Bases GÈDRE (1071m) is the last village on D921 before reaching Gavarnie. Huddled below the entrance to the Vallée de Héas, it is reached by the private bus that serves Gavarnie from Luz St-Sauveur. There’s a choice of hotel accommodation, two gîtes d’étape : Granges de Saugué (Tel 05 62 92 48 73) and L’Escapade (Tel 05 62 92 49 37 www.gite-escapade.com ), and three campsites. The village has a restaurant, basic shops and a tourist information office. HÉAS (1500m) is little more than a collection of farmhouses and a small chapel 8km from Gèdre. Chambres d’hôte acommodation is available at Auberge de la Munia (Tel 05 62 92 48 39); there’s also a gîte d’étape , Auberge Le Refuge (Tel 05 62 92 47 74). Beyond the hamlet the road curves south to a toll-booth, then twists up the hillside to the Auberge de Maillet (Tel 05 62 92 48 97) on the way to the Cirque de Troumouse. No habitation is really close enough to form an effective valley base for the Cirque de Barroude. The nearest villages are those of the Vallée d’Aure, north of the Bielsa Tunnel. Of these, St-Lary is the largest, but motor transport would be required to reach Aragnouet-le-Plan for the start of a 3hr walk through the Vallon de la Gela to gain Refuge de Barroude.

REFUGE REFUGE DE BARROUDE (2373m) was built by the PNP authorities in 1974. A comfortable hut with places for a total of 35 in its single dormitory and tent annexe, it’s manned from June until the end of September. The refuge stands on a grassy bluff between tarns overlooking the Barroude Wall (Tel 05 62 39 61 10 www.refuge-barroude.fr ). Sadly the refuge was destroyed by fire on the night of 10/11 October 2014. A replacement is expected to be built on the same site, but no details are available as we go to print.

ROUTE 79

Barrage des Gloriettes (1668m) – Cabane d’Estaubé (1755m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Barrage des Gloriettes (1668m) 4km 87m 1 1hr

This short and easy walk is suggested as a means of introduction to the wild, uninhabited and beautiful Vallée d’Estaubé. There’s a dammed lake, boulder-strewn pastures, a charming mountain stream, and an impressive headwall overtopped by Monte Perdido. It was by way of the Estaubé glen and the Brèche de Tuquerouye that Ramond de Carbonnières made his attempts to climb Monte Perdido in 1797 and 1802, and south of Lac des Gloriettes very little will have changed since then.

The Cirque d’Estaubé

To reach the start of the walk take the narrow service road which breaks away south of the Héas road at Pont de l’Arraillé (1459m, PNP noticeboard) about 2km below Héas. There’s parking space at the barrage. Without transport, it will take about 1hr to walk there from Héas. From the car park cross the dam, beyond which the path forks. Take the left branch and wander along the west side of the lake heading south with a view to the Cirque d’Estaubé, where the Brèche de Tuquerouye is a prominent feature. Above the brèche can be seen the top section of Monte Perdido (Mont

Perdu), and it’s easy to understand how Ramond was fooled into believing that it forms part of the frontier ridge. When he arrived at the brèche he discovered to his surprise that another valley lay between the ridge and Perdido. From the southern end of the lake the path strikes ahead through pastures dotted with boulders, and as you make progress so views grow in extent, with more of the cirque wall appearing until you can see the Port Neuf de Pinède well to the east of the Brèche de Tuquerouye. Port Neuf de Pinède is a long-established pass, formerly used by smugglers trafficking between France and Spain.

Towards the end of the first pastureland, the path rises easily to thread a way between rocky narrows, beyond which lies a second stretch of pasture. As you pass through the narrows a lovely cascade pours over rocks below. A few minutes later you enter the National Park, and just beyond a PNP sign the path forks. The right-hand option climbs to the Hourquette d’Alans and Port Neuf de Pinède. For the Cabane d’Estaubé you take the left branch. This crosses the pastures, then goes up a rise to the right of the stream, which here comes bursting through limestone runnels. Above this, cross the stream on a concrete footbridge, than wander over more pastures to reach the simple shepherd’s hut of Cabane d’Estaubé, set on a slight rise on the east side of the valley, with a charming unobstructed view of the Cirque d’Estaubé. Allow 1hr for a return to the Barrage des Gloriettes. The way across Hourquette d’Alans (2430m) is uncomplicated, on a good path all the way (2hrs 15mins from the PNP junction). This gives access to Gavarnie by way of Refuge des Espuguettes. Instead of crossing Hourquette d’Alans to Gavarnie, a crossing of the frontier ridge can be made at the 2666m Brêche de Tuquerouye , the path breaking from the Hourquette d’Alans route just below the pass. Note This is for experienced mountain trekkers only. Port Neuf de Pinède (2466m) provides an easier route into Spain’s Valle de Pineta than the Brèche de Tuquerouye route, the Port being reached in 2½hrs from the PNP junction.

ROUTE 80

Héas (1500m) – Lacs des Aires (2099m) – Le Cot (2138m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Héas (1500m) 7km 638m 2–3 2–2½hrs

The easiest way to get into the heart of the vast Cirque de Troumouse is to take the toll road which climbs beyond Héas and ends at a parking area at 2090m. A 15min stroll northeast of the car park leads onto the bluff of Le Cot topped by a statue of the Virgin, a magnificent viewpoint being almost in the centre of the cirque. Another 15mins from there will bring you to the Lacs des Aires, a collection of tarns and pools below Pic de Troumouse. The walk offered here, however, is longer and more rewarding since it keeps you away from tarmac and enters the cirque by an alternative route.

From Héas walk along the road a short distance towards the toll-booth. About 100m before this there’s a parking area on the left of the road by Auberge Le Refuge where the signed path begins. After just 1min the path forks. Take the right-hand option to slant easily across the hillside above the Gave des Touyères. Keeping left of the stream, enter the National Park and go through a ravine, rising steadily, then more steeply towards its upper end on the climb to the Cabane des Aires (2132m). It’s not essential to go as far as the cabane , as the path forks below it, but the views make the extra effort worthwhile. Another path cuts in from the left, but we swing right (south) with the limestone cirque walls stetching ahead, above and behind, and soon come to the Lacs des Aires. An alternative route from Héas via the Vallon de l’Aguila.

Pic de Gabiétou and the Cirque de Troumouse

Go round the southern end of the lakes and veer west, with the statue of the Virgin seen on its knoll above. When the path forks take the right branch and climb to the statue for a magnificent panoramic view of the complete cirque. Either return by the same path (2hrs), or take the trail to the roadhead car park, then walk down the road (there are short cuts) back to Héas via the Auberge de Maillet (1½–2hrs).

ROUTE 81

Héas (1500m) – Hourquette d’Héas (2608m) – Hourquette de Chermentas (2439m) – Refuge de Barroude (2373m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Héas (1500m) 10km 1227m 354m 3 5½–6hrs

This approach to the Cirque de Barroude is used by the Haute Route, and is the most obvious one for walkers coming from the west. Note A fine trek with a variety of scenic interest, caution is required early in the season when snow may be lying on the approach to the two pass crossings.

Just beyond the chapel in Héas, on the road that leads to the Cirque de Troumouse, there’s a rough car park by Auberge Le Refuge. On the left of the road the path to Hourquette de Héas begins. Take the left branch when it forks after 1min. The right-hand option goes to the Cirque de Troumouse – Route 80 . The clear path climbs steeply up the hillside to the right of the Aguila stream. When the incline slackens Cabane de l’Aguila (1910m) is passed on the opposite bank (1hr 15mins). After this the trail cuts away from the stream, returning near some cascades before heading off to the southeast. The route is clearly defined, mostly on a well-trodden path, but sometimes aided by cairns. It climbs the grassy Montagne des Aiguillous, then goes through a shallow gully to emerge near Cabane d’Aiguillous which stands above the stream. Cross the stream to the right of the hut and go over a broad undulating depression. Above, mountains walling the valley appear incapable of offering a route through, but a path toils up the eastern slopes in long winding sweeps, offering fine views back to the west where the Vignemale dominates. Near the head of the pass the trail has been cut as a ledge, and Hourquette de Héas (2608m) is gained – with a mixture of surprise and relief – about 3–3½hrs from Héas. From this rocky pass descend carefully in zigzags, first to the north until another path is met, then bear right, still losing height but more gradually now. Make a traverse to the southeast, before climbing once more to reach the next pass, Hourquette de Chermentas (2439m), where a fresh vista opens out.

Over this go down in tight zigzags on scree, and bear right to pass close below cliffs that form the eastern wall of Pic de la Géla. The path then climbs once more on scree towards a minor pass. Heading round below the long Barroude Wall the path is met by another coming from Plan d’Aragnouet on the left. Continue on, now heading southeast on boulder-strewn grass and sometimes snow, with several pools lying around. Lac de Barroude is seen to the right. The little Refuge de Barroude is located above the path on the left, standing on a grassy bluff. At 2373m Refuge de Barroude has a splendid view west to the Barroude Wall. It’s only a small hut with 35 places, including 10 in a tent annexe; reservations are essential. Owned by the PNP it is manned from June to end of September (Tel 05 62 39 61 10 www.refuge-barroude.fr ). Sadly the refuge was destroyed by fire on the night of 10/11 October 2014. A replacement is expected to be built on the same site, but no details are available as we go to print. Note The shortest and easiest way out of the Cirque de Barroude is down the Vallon de la Géla by a PNP path. The path emerges onto the D929 road near the hamlet of Le Plan in the Vallée d’Aure, about 16km from St-Lary.

ROUTE 82

Refuge de Barroude (2373m) – Pic de Port-Vieux (2723m) – Port Vieux (2378m) – Refuge de Barroude

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refuge de Barroude (2373m) 8km 663m 663m 2–3 5hrs

This circuit makes an interesting, scenic day’s walk without any great difficulties involved. It passes over a couple of summits (Soum de Barroude 2674m and Pic de Port-Vieux 2723m), follows the frontier ridge and affords some lovely views.

From the refuge go down to the stream issuing from the eastern extremity of Lac de Barroude and take the path heading south up to the obvious saddle of Port de Barroude (2534m; 40mins). From here a spectacular view northwest looks over the Barroude cirque, and south to the western limits of the Circo de Barrosa in Spain.

Heading east, the broad frontier ridge is followed round to the bald summit of Soum de Barroude, for more fine views. Now head north to gain Pic de PortVieux, and descend from its summit on the steep grass of the Spanish side as the ridge itself becomes potentially dangerous. Having descended about 200m head once more towards the ridge, but keeping on a horizontal course. Once back on the ridge follow it as far as Port Vieux. Turn left and descend the steep path on the French side until it divides. Go left (southwest) to traverse uncomfortable slopes of rough boulders led by a line of cairns and paint flashes, steadily gaining height to reach a grassy spur known as Pène Male to the north of Pic de Port-Vieux. The way now goes southwestward along the western slopes of the mountain. It’s an invigorating trail, narrow and exposed in places as it picks a way along shallow terraces, and leads directly to the stream flowing from Lac de Barroude. Follow the stream up towards the lake, and then cut off to the right to regain the hut. MOVING ON: CIRQUE DE BARROUDE TO THE POSETS MASSIF

The Cirque de Barroude (Routes 81, 82)

Trekkers following the Haute Route continue their eastward traverse of the Pyrenees by making for the summer grazing hamlet of Viadós below the Posets massif, where there’s a privately owned refugio . The original PHR kept to the frontier ridge beyond the Barroude cirque before descending to the head of the tranquil Rioumajou, then climbed out again to cross into Spain at the Port de Caouerère. A lack of accommodation at Rioumajou forced a change of route, and now most trekkers cross the easy 2535m Port de Barroude and descend through the Valle de Barrosa that opens into the upper Valle de Bielsa on the south side of the Bielsa road tunnel. A 5km walk down the road leads to Parzán, just beyond which accommodation may be found at the hotel of Meson La Fuen (Tel 974 501 047). From here a cross-country route, shared by GR11, crosses the 2326m Paso de los Caballos, and Collado de los Collas (1851m) to gain Viadós in 6½–7hrs. CLIMBING IN THE CIRQUES OF TROUMOUSE AND BARROUDE

Forming just one section of the Cirque de Troumouse, the Barroude Wall (Muraille de Barroude) stretches for almost 4km in a roughly north–south line. The main summits are Pic de Troumouse (3085m), Point 3028m, Pic Heïd (3022m), Petit Pic Blanc (2957m), Pic de Gerbats (2904m) and Pic de la Géla (2851m). Pic de Troumouse was first climbed by survey officers in 1825; its voie normale from Port de Barroude is now graded PD and generally takes about 3hrs, but further north along the wall more challenging lines have been

developed. The Ravier twins, Jean and Pierre, were responsible for taking the lion’s share of pioneering here from the 1950s on. They shared their rope with various other partners, including sister Lysette (on the East Spur on Petit Pic Blanc in the centre of the wall), and Christian – son of Jean (on the winter ascent of the Barroude Couloir on Pic de la Géla ). The 400m East Face of Pic de Gerbats has an AD line claimed in 1952 by the Ravier twins with X Defos du Rau, while the brothers took the Lake Wall (paroi du lac) on Point 3028m (ED-: V/VI) in 1962. On the walls of the Cirque de Troumouse a number of routes have been developed. One of the classics that has stood the test of time is the Voie Ravier (TD: IV/V) on the 500m North Face of the Pène Blanque (2905m), dating from 1969, while the North Face Direct (ED-: V+/A1/A2) was put up the following year by Despaiau and de Boysson. The 700m North Face of Pic de la Munia (3133m) offers a recommended winter route put up by Patrick Gabarrou and Pascal Girault in 1993, but when conditions are good the whole north-facing wall of the cirque becomes a winter playground.

11 RÉSERVE NATURELLE DE NÉOUVIELLE Created in 1935 the Réserve Naturelle de Néouvielle forms an adjunct to the Parc National des Pyrenées; a large area of granite upland liberally spattered with tarns and surrounded by a number of attractive peaks. Within it lie several lovely valleys, stands of mountain pine, a rich alpine flora, and a number of refuges linked by trails to lure the lover of fine scenery to explore both its heartland and the valleys on its rim. In the past hydro engineers dammed some of the lakes and pushed a road from Fabian deep into the heart of the region. Elsewhere it’s possible to experience a sense of remoteness when crossing from valley to valley. The Néouvielle: a land of lakes and mountains… and marmots. As early as 1787 the geographers Vidal and Reboul climbed Turon de Néouvielle, first of the Pyrenean 3000m summits to be won. Ramond de Carbonnières explored parts of the region during his self-imposed exile at Barèges, and made an attempt on Pic de Néouvielle. In 1847 de Chausenque succeeded where Ramond had failed, while nearby Pic Long (3192m) received an early ascent from the Duc de Nemours with Marc Sesquet as his guide. During two centuries of activity the Néouvielle has attracted the attention of numerous Pyrénéistes with some difficult climbs being achieved. The modest scrambler and the valley walker will also find an abundance of outings to suit, for which this guide and the map serve merely as brief introductions and a spur to dreams. ACCESS AND INFORMATION Lying wholly in France, to the north of both Gavarnie and Barroude regions. Bordered on the Location west by the valley of the Gave de Pau, to the north by the Tourmalet road, and to the east by the Vallée d’Aure. The only vehicular access is from the southeast where a service road leaves the Vallée d’Aure at Fabian, and rises through the Couplan gorge to the lakes of Cap de Long, Orédon and Access Aubert. In summer a shuttle operates between Lac d’Orédon and Lac d’Aubert. Footpath access is best from the north via Pont de la Gaubie above Barèges (bus from Lourdes), or via the road from Fabian. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 4 ‘Bigorre’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 series no: 1748OT Maps ‘Gavarnie, Luz St-Sauveur’ and 1748ET ‘Néouvielle, Vallée d’Aure’ both at 1:25,000 Bases Barèges (1247m), Artigues (1120m), St-Lary-Soulain (810m), Fabian (1447m) Office de Tourisme, Barèges (www.mairie-bareges.fr); Office de Tourisme, St Lary-Soulan Information (www.saintlaryresort.co.uk); Direction du Parc National des Pyrénées, 59 route de Pau, F65000; Tarbes (05 62 44 36 60 www.parc-pyrenees.com)

Bases BARÈGES (1247m) is situated about 8km northeast of Luz St-Sauveur on the road to Col du Tourmalet on the northern edge of the region. It makes a good centre for mountain-based activities: walking, climbing, parapenting and skiing. That one or two British adventure-holiday companies use this village as

their Pyrenean centre is an endorsement of its pedigree. There are several modest-priced hotels and two gîtes d’étape : L’Oasis (Tel 05 62 92 69 47 www.gite-oasis.com ) and the larger L’Hospitalet (Tel 05 62 92 68 08). There’s a campsite just below the village, plenty of shops, bars, restaurants, post office and tourist information. The village is served by SNCF bus from Lourdes (change at Pierrefitte-Nestalas). ARTIGUES (1120m) is a tiny village in the Vallée de Gripp below La Mongie on the northern side of the Néouvielle region. It has few tourist facilities apart from a hotel, the Relais d’Arizes (Tel 05 62 91 90 41) and a sprawling campsite, but attractive waterfalls are within reach, and a trail from the village links with that described as Route 90 for the approach to Refuge de Campana de Cloutou. ST-LARY-SOULAN (810m) is a popular year-round resort in the Vallée d’Aure. Served by bus from Tarbes via Arreau, it provides access to the eastern side of the Néouvielle by way of the GR10 which passes nearby or – for those with their own transport – the possibility of driving into the region on a service road to the dammed lakes. St-Lary offers hotel accommodation (several campsites nearby), plenty of shops, restaurants, bank, post office, tourist information, guides’ bureau and a Maison du Parc.

Pic de Néouvielle from Lac de Cap de Long

FABIAN (1447m) is a small hamlet 8km upvalley from St-Lary where the service road heads north into the Néouvielle region from the Vallée d’Aure. A 21-place gîte d’étape , open all year, is located here: the Espace et Montagne (Tel 05 62 39 67 95). Fabian is served by bus from St-Lary.

Refuges REFUGE DE LA GLÈRE (2103m) is a large stone-built CAF refuge on the edge of some wild country south of Barèges. It has places for 65 and is fully staffed from May to the end of September, when meals are available. Accessed by a rough dirt road from Barèges, it will take about 3½hrs to reach on foot (Tel 06 80 01 25 64 www.refugedelaglere.ffcam.fr ). REFUGE PACKE (2509m) offers only the most basic facilities and accommodation for eight. Named after Charles Packe, who in 1893 presented the CAF with 1000 francs as a contribution towards the construction and upkeep of refuges, it’s found about 2.5km west of Pic de Néouvielle and is reached in about 2½hrs from La Glère (www.pyrenees-refuges.com/fr ). CABANE DU RABIET (2199m) stands just to the south of Refuge Packe, and about 100m southeast of Lac de Rabiet. This too is a simple but solid little shelter with six places. More useful as an emergency shelter on a long trek than as a planned base, it is reached in about 30mins from Refuge Packe. CABANE D’AYGUES-CLUSES (2150m) is reached from Pont de la Gaubie in about 2hrs. It stands in pleasant open pastureland southwest of Pic des Quatre Termes and provides basic emergency accommodation for about six. REFUGE DE CAMPANA DE CLOUTOU (2225m) was built in 1971 by the CAF to the south of Lac de Greziolles and is manned from June to the end of September. The refuge has places for 19, plus eight in a tent annexe and is reached from the Tourmalet road in about 3½hrs, or 2hrs from Refuge de Bastan (Tel 06 16 66 30 37 www.refugecampanacloutou.com ). REFUGE DE BASTAN (2250m) is fully staffed from June to the end of September. With places for 20, it stands in splendid country among tarns and clumps of pine northeast of Lac de l’Oule, from whose southern limit it is reached in about 1½–2hrs (Tel 05 62 98 48 80 www.refugedebastan.fr ). CHALET-HÔTEL DE L’OULE (1819m) is owned by the Commune of St-Lary and stands by the dam at the southern end of Lac de l’Oule. Manned from midDecember to the end of April, and from mid-June to mid-September, it has 26 places (Tel 05 62 98 48 62 www.saintlary-vacances.com ). Access is by road from Fabian, followed by a walk of about 45mins. CHALET-HOTEL D’ORÉDON (1852m) is open from June to the end of September and has room for 80. Situated at the eastern end of Lac d’Oredon, and accessible by road, restaurant service is available (Tel 06 23 05 72 60 www.refuge-pyrenees-oredon.com ).

ROUTE 83

Barèges (1247m) – Refuge de la Glère (2103m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Barèges (1247m) 7km 856m 2 3½hrs

Visitors with their own transport might choose to drive at least part of the way to this hut. If so, it’s advisable to park with care in one of a few rough ‘lay-by’ areas along the dirt road. To drive all the way is to risk damage to your vehicle, unless you have four-wheel drive. From Barèges drive upvalley towards the Col du Tourmalet. Take the second turning on the right after the sign announcing that you’ve left Barèges. This narrow road cuts back sharply and is signed to Restaurant Le Lienz. The road becomes a track beyond Chez Louisette and twists into the Vallée de la Glère proper.

The walker’s route begins behind the thermal baths in Barèges itself, where a track zigzags up through beechwoods, goes beneath a funicular and in about 1hr comes to an open clearing of pastureland where you’ll find the restaurant of Chez Louisette. Head across the pastures (signpost) to enter the Vallée de la Glère, which is green and pastoral in its lower reaches, but wild and austere as you go deeper into it. The way follows the dirt road, but towards the head of the valley – when the road begins to climb in tight bends – footpath short cuts allow you to gain height directly to the hut. There’s plenty of wild country to explore from it.

ROUTE 84

Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie, 1538m) – Lac dets Coubous (2041m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie, 1538m) 2.5km 503m 2 1½hrs

About 3.5km northeast of Barèges on the way to Col du Tourmalet, the D918 road makes a deep curve to the south into the mouth of the Coubous glen. The road crosses a stream at a left-hand hairpin bend by a small café and botanical garden. There’s plenty of car parking space nearby. This is Pont de la Gaubie, starting point for several walks into the northern edge of the Néouvielle massif.

Just beyond the café a path heads into the Coubous glen and soon joins a major track that has its beginnings 150m up the road beyond the café. Walk along the track (GR10) heading south. When it eases leftward at the mouth of a side valley cross a stream and come to a junction of paths. Ignore the left branch and continue ahead, soon rising in zigzags over increasingly stony terrain. This is the continuing GR10 and Aygues-Cluses route. The path reaches another trail (a horizontal one) where you bear left, and soon after come to the Lac dets Coubous. Note Several attractive tarns worth visiting are found a short walk beyond Lac dets Coubous. Above the highest of these the way climbs to Hourquette d’Aubert, then descends on the far side to the Lacs d’Aumar and Aubert . This route is described in reverse as part of the splendid 2-day Néouvielle Lakes Circuit (Route 94 ).

ROUTE 85

Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie, 1538m) – Cabane d’Aygues-Cluses (2150m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie, 1538m) 5km 612m 2 2hrs

The Aygues-Cluses glen is a delight of clear streams, tarns, fine views and lots of marmots. Although the hut is suitable only as an emergency shelter, it is worth wandering to it in order to have an excuse to explore its lovely situation.

The Vallon d’Aygues-Cluses

Follow Route 84 as far as the junction of paths at the entrance to the side valley near the head of the Coubous glen. Bear left and follow the GR10 path as it works its way through the valley by way of a series of minor plateaux, adorned with stunted pines, wild raspberries and alpenrose, the stream tumbling over little cascades. Without any difficulties the waymarked path leads directly to the hut, which overlooks a tarn set within a large basin of grassland rimmed by rocky peaks.

ROUTE 86

Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie, 1538m) – Col de Madamète (2509m) – Pic de Madamète (2657m) – Lac dets Coubous (2041m) – Pont de la Gaubie

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie, 1538m) 14km 1119m 1119m 3 5½–6hrs

This is a splendid circuit with lots of variety and good views nearly every step of the way.

The route begins by following Route 85 as far as the Cabane d’Aygues-Cluses, and continues on the GR10 heading south, climbing past a string of tarns (the Lacs de Madamète), then over boulders to gain Col de Madamète (3–3½hrs). Views from the col, the highest on the GR10, are magnificent, for they look out over some of the loveliest lakes in the Néouvielle district. Bear right on a narrow waymarked route that climbs in 30mins to the summit of Pic de Madamète. A few paces from the summit a cairn marks the point where you descend northward to the broad Col de Tracens, then veer left on a cairned route that leads northwest among rocks and boulders to Lac de Tracens, one of several tarns in the glen below. Work round the edge of the tarn to join a clear path alongside Lac Blanc. Follow this off to the right, soon coming to the dammed Lac dets Coubous. Cross the dam to the cabane and descend into the valley below where the GR10 leads back to Pont de la Gaubie.

ROUTE 87

Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie, 1538m) – Col de Madamète (2509m) – Chalet-Hôtel de l’Oule (1819m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie, 1538m) 15km 1101m 820m 3 6½–7hrs

This challenging walk forms one of the best sections of the GR10 long-distance trans-Pyrenean trail. It crosses two cols and is therefore quite demanding, but makes an ideal introduction to the Néouvielle region.

Follow directions for Route 86 as far as Col de Madamete (3–3½hrs). The continuing path descends into the Réserve Naturelle, skirts the left-hand edge of the Gourg de Rabas tarn, and goes down to join another path near the northern end of Lac d’Aumar. Walk along the right-hand (west) shore of the lake. Come onto the road and follow it ahead a short distance, until the GR10 strikes off ahead, going southeastward while the road snakes down to Lac d’Oredon. The path takes you through woodland and rises to the saddle of Col d’Estoudou (2260m; 5½–6hrs), crosses over and then drops steeply to the west bank of Lac de l’Oule. Leaving GR10 bear right and walk along the lakeside to reach the dam at its southern end, where you will find the ChaletHôtel de l’Oule.

ROUTE 88

Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie, 1538m) – Hourquette Nère (2465m) – Refuge de Bastan (2250m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie, 1538m) 12km 927m 215m 2–3 4–5hrs

Refuge de Bastan lies just outside the Réserve Naturelle among yet another glorious landscape of lakes, rocks and pines, and this approach to it is one of the best. It forms the first stage of a 2-day circular walk described as Route 94 .

Follow Route 85 as far as Cabane d’Aygues-Cluses, then take either a faint path leading round the northern end of Lac de Coueyla-Gran, or that which skirts the southern side. If you take the southern option veer left round the lake and when the path disappears, go up onto a broad sloping ‘ridge’ adorned with pines and boulders to a view overlooking Lac d’Agalops, there to join the path which came round the north side of the earlier tarn. Follow this path to the right (east) as it climbs nearly 300m to reach Hourquette Nère. The route grows steeper towards the top. From this bald saddle you can see several more tarns below. The continuing path descends first to Lac de Port-Bielh (2285m). Halfway along the southern side of this the route heads down the left-hand side of a stream flowing southeastward. A clear path takes you above a string of small tarns, then up a slope to a minor ridge where you find Lac de Bastan (2247m), whose northern shore is rock-strewn and whose southern bank is marked by a pine-topped hillock. Pass the tarn at its southeastern end and descend to another, but much smaller, tarn (2197m) with a stream flowing from it. Cross the stream and go up a smooth grass slope towards an obvious ridge crowned by a number of pines. Towards the top the path loops to and fro to ease the ascent. More fine views from this broad crest. Go down the eastern side to the edge of Lac Supérieur, pass along its southern side and you’ll soon come to Refuge de Bastan at the northern edge of another tarn, Lac du Milieu.

The descent from Hourquette Nère to Refuge de Bastan

A popular outing from Refuge de Bastan is the ascent of Pic de Bastan (2715m), a superb viewpoint NNW of the refuge. Although steep in places and a little exposed, the route along the east ridge from Col de Bastanet is not difficult and takes 1–1½hrs from the hut. Refuge de Campana de Cloutou stands among yet more tarns to the north of the Bastan hut, and is reached by a variante of GR10 (GR10C) which crosses the 2507m Col de Bastanet in 2hrs. See Route 90 , which approaches Campana de Cloutou from the Tourmalet road.

ROUTE 89

Chalet-Hôtel de l’Oule (1819m) – Refuge de Bastan (2250m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Chalet-Hôtel de l’Oule (1819m) 5km 431m 2 1½–2hrs

A short, straightforward approach to Refuge de Bastan, this makes a pleasant family outing.

From the Chalet-Hôtel below the dam head north along either shore of Lac de l’Oule to reach the basic shelter of Cabane de la Lude. Soon after this bear right on a track winding up the hillside and, about 20mins from the end of the lake, come to the Cabane de Bastan. The GR10 then breaks off to the right. Ignore that turn-off and head north to enter a hanging valley in which you find the lovely Lac Inférieur (2141m). Wander along its eastern shore, then veer right and climb to a second, smaller tarn, beyond which you come to Lac Milieu. Refuge de Bastan is found at its northern end.

ROUTE 90

Artigues (Col du Tourmalet road, 1380m) – Refuge de Campana de Cloutou (2225m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Artigues (Col du Tourmalet road, 1380m) 6km 845m 3 3½hrs

Midway between La Mongie and Ste-Marie-de-Campan, the village of Artigues lies in the bed of the Vallée de Gripp below the Tourmalet road. Above it, on the way to La Mongie and Col du Tourmalet, the D918 road makes a sharp right-hand hairpin. An abandoned garage stands on this hairpin, with parking places both opposite and beside it. This is the start of the walk to the Campana de Cloutou hut. It’s a steep walk in places, but it passes through several different vegetation levels, and as you gain height so the scenery grows more and more attractive.

The path begins on the left-hand side of the garage and descends immediately to a footbridge over a stream. It then climbs a steep grass slope among alpenrose, juniper and large rocks, and brings you over a grass saddle onto open pastureland (20mins). The way then curves to the right towards the valley’s headwall down which cascades can be seen, and more or less follows a line of power cables.

Wild country on the edge of the district near Refuge de Campana de Cloutou

Pass through a gully and soon cross the stream on a concrete footbridge. Shortly after this begin the twisting ascent of the headwall, at the top of which you enter a broad hanging valley. The path divides (unmarked) just before you enter this. Don’t be tempted to follow the left branch near the stream, but keep ahead through the sloping valley at the head of which you should be able to see the small stone-built dam that holds back Lac de Caderolles (2041m). With a few twists the path brings you onto the dam about 2hrs from the road, to gain a good view of the Pic des Quatre Termes to the southwest. Take the path along the west (right-hand) shore, and at the far end of the lake climb towards a larger dam wall, behind which lies Lac de Greziolles. On reaching the foot of the dam the path swings left, then climbs high above the lake, passes a small reedy pond, then a tarn on the left, on the way up to a pine-topped bluff which makes a wonderful vantage point. Views are magnificent as you overlook a wild scene of rock, pine and water. Now descend southeastward towards the stony valley at the upper end of Lac de Greziolles, and about 3½hrs from the road you will reach Refuge de Campana de Cloutou just above Lac du Campana.

ROUTE 91

Vallée de Couplan (1591m) – Chalet-Hôtel de l’Oule (1819m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Vallée de Couplan (1591m) 2km 228m 1 45mins

The shortest and most obvious approach to the Chalet-Hôtel de l’Oule is by road from Fabian in the Vallée d’Aure, followed by a walk along this easy path. The road was built by the electricity authority for the construction of various dams, and leaves the Vallée d’Aure at Fabian, upvalley of St-Lary. About 6km along this service road there’s a sharp hairpin bend, the second since Fabian. Shortly beyond it, and where the road bends to the left, a flat grassy area is seen on the right by a bridge. There’s a PNP notice board, and room for parking.

Cross the bridge and follow the path, which bears right and steadily slopes above the valley heading east. As you rise so you gain views ahead with flowers clustered on the rocks that wall the path on your left. Through pines the way swings left to enter the lower reaches of the valley in which lies Lac de l’Oule. The huge dam responsible for the lake is seen ahead. The path rises to the dam, which you then cross to its eastern side. The Chalet-Hôtel is located below.

ROUTE 92

A Walking Circuit of Lac de l’Oule

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

A Walking Circuit of Lac de l’Oule 7km 228m 228m 1 2–2½hrs

This easy walk is popular with picnic parties, and is recommended for families with young children. Choose a bright summer’s day when views are a delight.

Follow Route 91 from the parking area as far as the lake. Stroll along the western shore on a clear, well-made path with fine views to the north. At the lake’s northern extremity you’ll curve round to the right and pass Cabane de la Lude. Walk along the eastern shore as far as the dam, then cross to the western side and return down the valley-bound path. Refreshments are available at Chalet-Hôtel de l’Oule.

ROUTE 93

A Circuit of Lac d’Aumar

Start Distance Grade Time

A Circuit of Lac d’Aumar 3.5km 1 1½hrs

Reached by road from Fabian in the Vallée d’Aure, Lac d’Aumar is one of the jewels of the Néouvielle region. With parking nearby the lake is extremely popular during the summer with anglers and families. A circuit of the lake is highly recommended, for almost every step of the way rewards with exquisite views. My suggestion is to leave this walk until the end of the day when most other visitors have left – or tackle it early on a summer’s morning before the crowds arrive.

From the unmade car park at the roadhead follow signs for Hourquette d’Aubert, but when the path forks (6mins) take the right branch towards Col de Madamète which shortly brings you to the northwest shoreline of Lac d’Aumar. Follow this northward and you’ll soon arrive at a beautiful meadow. Cross the lake’s feeder stream (on semi-submerged rocks) and take a narrow path which traces the eastern shore.

The easy circuit of Lac d’Aumar is a scenic gem

There’s some boulder-hopping, but this is short-lived, for mostly the path weaves a route among alpenrose, juniper and mountain pine. Towards the

second half of the east-bank walk the path improves, and near the southern end it passes through carpets of flowers. The main path then heads for the road, but another trail reverts to the west shoreline, goes through wooded glades, and passes an abandoned refuge. Avoid a broad path here and remain on the lakeside; cross the outflow stream on stepping stones and complete the circuit by taking the path back to the car park.

ROUTE 94

A Néouvielle Lakes Circuit

Start/Finish Distance Grade Time Accommodation

Barèges (Pont de la Gaubie) 30km 3 2 days Refuge de Bastan

Several magnificent walking circuits could be created within the Néouvielle region, and a study of the map will show a variety of possibilities. The following route is highly recommended.

Day 1 from Pont de la Gaubie to Refuge de Bastan (Route 88 ) has already been described. This is a 4–5hr stage (without rests) but is likely to take much longer on account of the glorious scenery through which you pass. Taken at a leisurely pace this should be enough for the first day. Day 2 heads south along the eastern side of Lac du Milieu and alongside another, much smaller tarn, before the path swings right and descends to the east bank of the lovely Lac Inférieur – one of the finest on this circuit. The continuing path goes down to Lac de l’Oule where you pass along its righthand (western) shore until, about halfway down the length of the lake, another trail breaks off to the right (GR10). This climbs among trees, steeply at times, to Col d’Estoudou (2260m) to gain fine views, with Pic de Néouvielle the dominant mountain to the west.

Pic de Néouvielle seen from the path below Hourquette d’Aubert

From the col descend westward for about 5mins to a trail division. Take the right-hand option (straight ahead), a lovely mid-level traverse among pinewoods, heading northwest. Crossing small streams and dodging among trees you reach a gentle grassy crest with splendid views. Continuing, come to an open, moorland-like patch and wander down to Lac d’Aumar. Walk along the road as far as a rough car park by Lac d’Aubert, then continue ahead on a broad, clear path rising among mountain pines towards the Hourquette d’Aubert. There are few steep sections, and before long you angle across the south flank of Pic de Madamète to gain the pass at 2498m. Pic de Néouvielle rises to the south; a wonderland of lakes gleams behind you; while on the north side of the pass you gaze into a rocky valley with a smattering of tarns lower down. Descend the northern side on a steep stony path that eases to pass several charming tarns. The small, dammed Lac dets Coubous is the last of these, beyond which the trail descends to the Coubous glen where the GR10 leads directly to Pont de la Gaubie. CLIMBING IN THE NÉOUVIELLE DISTRICT

In common with most other districts in these mountains, the Néouvielle holds

numerous climbs at various grades of difficulty. Among the easiest is the 3173m Pic de Campbieil south of Lac de Cap de Long, from whose barrage car park an uncomplicated 3½hr ascent is made. The summit panorama is renowned for its extent and variety, and by its voie normale rivals that of Pic de Taillon above Gavarnie for the title of easiest 3000m peak in the Pyrenees. By contrast, Pic Long (3192m), Pic de Campbieil’s neighbour across the Cap de Long valley, holds some of the hardest routes in the district. The summit was first reached in 1856 by the Duc de Nemours (son of King Louis Phillippe) and his guide, Marc Sesquet, but the very steep 500m North Face (which rises above Lac Tourrat) was not climbed until Roger Mailly and Robert Ollivier put up the first route in 1933. The face now holds a number of lines, including the Voie Candau-Cassayre (TD-; IV+/V) dating from 1964. The voie normale , reached via the Cap de Long valley, ascends the east flank to Hourquette du Pic Long, then via the upper South Face to the summit – a 4½–5hr route grade AD+. One of the most prominent peaks of the region, Pic de Néouvielle (3091m), has a 3½–4hr voie normale starting at Lac d’Aubert and tackling the peak by way of the Brèche de Chausenque, as well as a choice of more difficult scrambles and climbs – the 250m Couloir Ouest being one. Starting from a base at Refuge de la Glère, this is best tackled as a winter or spring expedition (grade D). Near neighbour of Pic de Néouvielle – and overlooking Lac de Cap de Long – the 3039m Pic des Trois Conseillers holds some interesting climbs on its northern arête, and an AD line on its South Face which rises directly from the lake. Then there’s the Turon de Néouvielle (3035m) at a junction of three ridges above the western end of Lac de Cap de Long. The standard route here is from the north, where the Lacs de Maniportet lie in a wild coombe leading down to Refuge de la Glère. The ascent by the Northeast Ridge is 3hrs from the refuge, while the South Ridge has a TD route usually tackled from a base at the simple Refuge Packe.

12 LAC D’OÔ AND THE CIRQUE D’ESPINGO Lying on the edge of some wonderful high mountain country in the département of Haute Garonne southwest of Luchon, the tranquil Lac d’Oô has been a magnet for visitors for at least two centuries. With a 273m waterfall cascading into it, and a bar/refuge providing refreshments on its shore, its continued popularity is assured. In 1787 Ramond de Carbonnières described the lake as ‘one of the most beautiful sheets of water which it is possible to meet with at such an altitude’, while Packe, in his 1862 guide, called it an ‘exquisite scene’. And so it is. Lac d’Oô is only one reason to visit this small area of the Pyrenees, for the trail that climbs south of the lake goes up to the rugged Cirque d’Espingo, and above that to a landscape of abrupt rock walls, scree tips, jade-green lakes and a frontier ridge that both challenges and attracts. The GR10 visits Lac d’Oô before crossing the mountains on its east-bound journey, while the Haute Route tackles the higher country on its way to the frontier ridge and Spain. To summarise: the Lac d’Oô/Cirque d’Espingo district is well worth visiting for its walks, a choice of climbs on 3000m peaks, and cross-border treks, all among mountains with a wild appeal. ACCESS AND INFORMATION Location

The Vallée d’Oô southwest of Bagneres de Luchon, Central Pyrenees. By minor road heading southwest from D618 (the Col de Peyresourde road) at Cazeaux-deAccess Larboust. The road ends at the Granges d’Astau. In summer (July to early September) a daily shuttle runs from Luchon. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 5 ‘Luchon’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 series no: 1848OT Maps ‘Bagneres-de-Luchon’ 1:25,000 Bases Bagneres de Luchon (648m), Astau (1139m) Information Office de Tourisme, Bagneres de Luchon (05 61 79 21 21 www.luchon.com)

Bases BAGNERES DE LUCHON (648m) – more often referred to as Luchon – is reached by train from Lourdes or Toulouse (change at Montréjeau). A sprawling spa town almost surrounded by wooded hills, it serves as an important base from which to head across the mountains to the Maladeta and Posets massifs. As such it was one of the earliest mountaineering centres in the Pyrenees. The town has no shortage of accommodation, including several campsites and a 20-place gîte, Le Lutin, close to the centre (Tel 05 61 89 70 86 www.le-lutin.com ). Otherwise the nearest gîte d’étape (2km south) is the Gîte Skioura (Tel 05 61 79 60 59) with 40 places, open all year. Luchon has all facilities, including post office, tourist office and mountain guides bureau (Tel 05 61 79 69 38). There are plenty of foodstores, restaurants, bars, banks (with ATM) and bookshops stocking local maps.

Easily reached from the roadhead, Refuge d’Espingo makes an ideal base for a variety of local walks and climbs

ASTAU (1139m) is no more than a group of buildings at the roadhead south of Oô village. Accommodation is available at the Granges d’Astau, a gîte with 16 places, plus chambres d’hôte and restaurant, open from spring to the end of September (Tel 05 61 79 35 63 www.astau-pyrenees.com )

Refuges REFUGE AUBERGE DU LAC (1504m) is built near the western end of the barrage on the north side of Lac d’Oô, with a direct view across the lake to its famed waterfall. Privately owned, the refuge has 25 places, and is staffed from May to the end of October (Tel 05 61 79 12 29 www.pyrenees-refuges.com/fr ). REFUGE D’ESPINGO (1967m) is owned by the CAF and has 65 places. Fully manned from May to the end of October, it’s a good base for climbers tackling a number of neighbouring peaks (Tel 05 61 79 20 01 www.clubalpintoulouse.fr ). The first Espingo refuge was built in 1923, but this was swept away by avalanche in 1935. The present building enjoys a very fine location overlooking the unspoilt Lac d’Espingo and Val d’Arrouge. REFUGE DU PORTILLON (2571m) replaces the former construction workers’ hut at Lac du Portillon, about 2–2½hrs from Refuge d’Espingo. Built by the CAF, and staffed from the end of May to mid-October – conditions permitting – it has 80 places (Tel 05 61 79 38 15 www.clubalpintoulouse.fr ).

ROUTE 95

Granges d’Astau (1139m) – Lac d’Oô (1504m) – Refuge d’Espingo (1967m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Granges d’Astau (1139m) 5km 828m 2 2–2½hrs

This two-stage walk is extremely popular, so unless you tackle it early in the day, or in inclement weather, do not expect to enjoy it in solitude. First, to reach the Granges d’Astau either drive or take the shuttle from Luchon. Once you turn off the Col de Peyresourde road the way soon passes alongside Oô village, then veers south through the upper Vallée d’Oô (also known as the Val d’Astau) to the roadhead by the Granges d’Astau. Plenty of parking spaces here. Above to the southwest lies the Val d’Esquierry, noted for its abundant mountain flowers. GR10 approaches the Granges through that valley.

The way to Lac d’Oô is obvious. Heading south it begins as a stony track, but narrows to footpath (used by the GR10) as you gain height. The trail climbs through woodland, and a little over 1hr from the roadhead brings you to the dammed Lac d’Oô. The Refuge Auberge du Lac is seen to the right. In 1862 Packe described the cabane thus ‘by no means deficient in creature comforts… the situation is most charming… convenient for exploring some of the very grandest scenery in the Pyrenees.’ The onward path will not be quite as busy as the walk so far. It climbs above the east shore, sometimes in the shade of trees, sometimes in the open, and eventually passes through a shallow ‘corridor’ below the slopes of Cap des Hounts-Secs, to gain Col d’Espingo. From here Refuge d’Espingo can be seen about 200m to the right, and is reached soon after. CLIMBS FROM REFUGE D’ESPINGO

West of the refuge Val d’Arrouge is headed by the 2964m Pic de Hourgade whose voie normale is a 3½–4hr ascent by way of the Col de Nère-Arrouge. The neighbouring Pic d’Arrouge (2853m) has an interesting PD traverse across its summit from Porte d’Arrouge (2809m), after which it descends to Col de Nère-Rouge. East of Refuge d’Espingo Cap des Hounts-Secs (2697m) is climbed by its voie normale in 3hrs, but the more challenging 3060m Pic Quayrat has a

number of serious routes to consider. The West Face is one of the most important in the district, the 500m Couloir des Avalanches in the very centre being a classic. On sound rock, this is a popular summer outing (PD), but graded AD+ as a winter expedition. Just to the south of Pic Quayrat rises Pic Lèzat (3107m) above Lac du Portillon. This also has several fine lines on its western side, while Pic des Spijeoles (3065m) – on the west side of the upper valley above the Cirque d’Espingo – has an East Face that attracts a lot of attention from climbers concentrating on the area, for it holds a wealth of TD lines on generally good granite.

The walls of Pic Quayrat, seen here from above Lac Glacé, hold a number of challenging climbs

ROUTE 96

Refuge d’Espingo (1967m) – Refuge du Portillon (2571m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refuge d’Espingo (1967m) 4km 604m 3 2–2½hrs

Situated below the frontier ridge, Refuge du Portillon lies beyond the day tripper’s reach, and is used almost exclusively by climbers and high-country trekkers.

Leave the Espingo hut by the clear path heading south to Lac Saussat, and wander along its western side. Since it was made to ease the way for the construction workers who built the barrage at Lac du Portillon, it’s a wellengineered path paved in the 1930s with stone slabs, and leads easily up towards a wilderness of rock and scree. Crossing a stream it veers off to the southeast, then climbs at a more determined angle, first beside Pic Quayrat, then Pic Lézat, before reaching the dam wall and Refuge du Portillon. PIC DE PERDIGUÈRE (3222M) Note The highest frontier summit hereabouts is Pic de Perdiguère (3222m). First climbed in 1852 by Toussaint Lézat with the Luchon guide Redonnet, the voie normale from the Portillon refuge is a 2½–3hr ascent via Portillon d’Oô. There are numerous other routes to consider, varying from an F-grade ascent via Col Supérieur de Literole to an AD+ line on the Northwest Face .

ROUTE 97

Refuge d’Espingo (1967m) – Port d’Oô (2908m) – Refugio de Estós (1890m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refuge d’Espingo (1967m) 8km 941m 1018m 3 6–7hrs

This fairly tough day’s trekking crosses the frontier ridge by a route that was already known and cairned when Ramond de Carbonnières came this way in 1787. Despite this history the crossing remains something of a challenge, and leads to the glorious Valle de Estós at the foot of the Posets massif (see Chapter 17 ).

From Refuge d’Espingo follow Route 96 beyond Lac Saussat, to a point about 20m before the paved trail crosses the bridge to the east side of the stream. A cairn marks the point where you leave the trail to climb grass slopes, so to reach another path leading round rock bands below Pic des Spijeoles then, higher, among a boulderfield following a line of cairns. Topping a rock barrier you come to a small tarn overlooking Lac Glacé. Ahead can be seen remnants of the Seil de la Baque icefield.

In 1787 Ramond discovered Lac Glacé to be ‘entirely frozen over, and wholly surrounded by snows, which were pierced by three great bands of ice…’ ‘It was the most beautiful desert of the kind that I had seen in the Pyrenees’ is how he described it in his Travels in the Pyrenees . More cairns lead over rocky terraces and up shallow gullies to gain a high wilderness of barren rocks with the frontier ridge in full view. Cross the glacial scarf of Seil de la Baque to the foot of screes which guard the approach to the Port d’Oô, then work a way up the scree slope to reach the pass.

Lying below Port d’Oô, Lac Glacé brings colour to a raw landscape of rock, scree and dying glacier

On arrival at Port d’Oô magnificent views across the depths of the Estós valley reveal Pico de Posets (second-highest Pyrenean massif). Along the frontier ridge to the southeast French slopes are draped with a vague icy apron while those of Spain are just bare rocks.

The descent to the Valle de Estós is both steep and tiring as it passes through some wild, desolate country. Bear leftwards below the Port down scree-covered rocks, then through a boulderfield before easing towards Lago de Gias seen ahead to the right. Before reaching this tarn, however, bear left to follow a line of cairns that lead all the way down to the Estós hut. The route descends through gullies, over rough terrain and down a streambed before a proper path emerges beside the stream to take you round a bluff to find Refugio de Estós a short distance away. Refugio de Estós is owned by the FAM, has places for 115 and is staffed throughout the year (Tel 974 344 515 www.refugiodeestos.com ). For a description of walks and climbs from here see Chapter 17 .

13 VALLÉES DE LA PIQUE AND DU LIS The Vallée de la Pique pushes deep into the mountains above Luchon, dense woodland spreading far up the hillsides, above which grass clothes the upper slopes until bare rock protrudes. At the roadhead, 11km from town, there’s a large car park near the ancient Hospice de France (which dates from the 14th century). Beyond the hospice the valley curves beneath the frontier ridge, but south of the old building a steep hanging valley carries an historic trail to the Port de Vénasque, across which lies Spain, the Valle del Ésera, and the Maladeta massif. The Vallée de la Pique, then, provides the means by which to gain access to the mountains of Aragón, whilst retaining a certain charm of its own. The main tributary of the Pique is the glacier-carved Vallée du Lis (or Lys). Its proper name is the Bat de Lys, a corruption of the Gascon lis , meaning the ‘valley of avalanches’ rather than lilies. Projecting west then south from the Vallée de la Pique some 5km from Luchon, at its head the Cirque des Crabioules is crowned with 3000m summits; the mountains on the west side of the valley forming the divide between the Vallée du Lis and the upper Vallée d’Oô. A number of tarns, set high in the mountains, make an obvious destination for energetic walkers, while Refuge du Maupas enables climbers to tackle an assortment of peaks that rim the valley. ACCESS AND INFORMATION South and southeast of Bagneres de Luchon in the Central Pyrenees, and east of the Vallée d’Oô. By road from Luchon (open mid-April to the end of November, conditions permitting); direction upvalley in summer to 11.30am, and between 2–4.30pm; traffic permitted Access downvalley from noon to 1.30pm, and after 5pm. The road into the Vallée du Lis is accessible at all times (conditions permitting), ending at a car park in view of the Cascade d’Enfer. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 5 ‘Luchon’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 series no: 1848OT Maps ‘Bagneres-de-Luchon’ 1:25,000 Base Bagneres de Luchon (648m) Information Office de Tourisme, Bagneres de Luchon (05 61 79 21 21 www.luchon.com) Location

Base BAGNERES DE LUCHON (648m) is conveniently reached by train from Paris via Lourdes or Toulouse (change at Montréjeau). One of the major spa towns of the Pyrenees, it was also among the range’s first mountaineering centres, from which early ascents were made among the Maladeta and Posets massifs south of the border. As a base it has plenty of accommodation, including several campsites and a 20-place gîte, Le Lutin, close to the centre (Tel 05 61 89 70 86 www.le-lutin.com ). Otherwise the nearest gîte d’étape (Gîte Skioura) is located 2km to the south at Castel Vieil. With 40 places it’s open all

year (Tel 05 61 79 60 59). Luchon has all facilities, including post office, and a tourist office with a mountain guides bureau next door (Tel 05 61 79 69 38). There are hotels, foodstores, restaurants, bars, banks (with ATM), and bookshops stocking local maps.

The Vallée du Lis

HOSPICE DE FRANCE (1385m) at the Vallee de la Pique roadhead is open mid-April until mid-November, with 19 standard beds and 30 dortoir places; full restaurant service (Tel 05 61 79 32 47 www.hospicedefrance.com ).

Refuges REFUGE DU MAUPAS (2450m) is perched high in the Cirque des Crabioules about 150m west of an electricity works téléphérique . Owned by the CAF it has 35 places and is manned from mid-June to mid-September (Tel 05 61 79 16 07 www.clubalpintoulouse.fr ). REFUGE DE VÉNASQUE (2249m) is set among lakes just below the Port de Vénasque and the frontier ridge south of the Hospice de France. With 16 places the hut is owned by the CAF and staffed from June to September;

reservations essential (Tel 05 61 79 26 46 www.clubalpintoulouse.fr ). See also www.refugedevenasque.ffcam.fr .

ROUTE 98

Vallée du Lis (1132m) – Refuge du Maupas (2450m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Vallée du Lis (1132m) 5.5km 1318m 3 3½–4hrs

In places this is a steep route, but the higher you go so the scenery grows in interest. A fairly strenuous walk, it’s also rewarding, with a manned refuge as the goal where you can get refreshments. Allow at least 2½hrs to descend to the valley by the same route.

From the car park at the Vallée du Lis roadhead walk downstream for about 50m, then cross a bridge over the Enfer stream and turn right along a track for a short distance, before taking a path that breaks from it above to the left. Entering mixed woodland you gain height aiming roughly southeast into a very narrow valley cut by the cascading Houradade stream. Shortly after emerging from the trees the path forks. Take the left branch to ascend a grass slope, at the top of which you enter more woodland. Here the path rises alongside the torrent which pours in a series of cascades. At the next junction at 1685m turn right (on path 41), cross the stream and ease across a very pleasant area of birch, pine, bilberry and alpenrose, then over a rough open meadowland, rich in wild flowers in the early summer. The trail then works its way up the left-hand side of a rock rib before crossing to its north side. Here you slant at an easy angle, with views into the Vallée du Lis and across to Superbagneres, and soon reach the slightly boggy Prat Long, on the far side of which can be seen a simple, beehive-shaped hut, and the EDF works téléphérique . Guided by yellow waymarks and the occasional cairn, the path twists up the left (east) side of the téléphérique line. At a trail junction where path 40 breaks to the southeast, continue uphill. This part of the ascent is steep in places, but you come to a point where red waymarks direct you to the right, beneath a large pipe and the téléphérique , then round shelves of rock to locate the Refuge du Maupas, about 150m west of the cableway. A small tarn lies just above and behind the refuge.

The small Refuge du Maupas is located high in the Cirque des Crabioules CLIMBS FROM REFUGE DU MAUPAS

Due south of the refuge, astride the frontier ridge, Pic de Maupas (3109m) is a notable vantage point and an obvious target for peak-baggers. Its first ascent was made as long ago as 1825 by military surveyors, and by its voie normale the route via the Northeast Ridge is fairly short (2hrs from the hut) and straightforward. However, the North Face has more difficult lines, with TD climbs of around 200m, and the South Face above the Valle de Remuñe contains several 300m routes in the range D to ED. East of Pic de Maupas the 3006m Pic de Boum can be climbed by a PD route in 3hrs from the refuge, while Pic d’Estauas (2754m) above Lac Célinda makes a tremendous viewpoint, gained by a 3½–4hr voie normale via a brèche in the ridge north of the summit. Of especial interest in this view is the great Maladeta massif across the Ésera’s valley.

ROUTE 99

Refuge du Maupas (2450m) – Lac Célinda (2395m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refuge du Maupas (2450m) 4km 130m 185m 2 1½–2hrs

Southeast of the refuge lie four lakes: Lacs Bleu, Charles, Célinda and du Port Vieil, the first three of which are visited on this walk.

First descend a short way down the route by which you approached the refuge, but at the first junction turn right on path 40, waymarked in blue. Crossing the steep slopes of the Tusse de Prat Long, Lac Vert can be seen below (see Route 100 ). Before long Lac Bleu comes into view ahead. As you approach the way becomes rather exposed, but is safeguarded with a fixed cable. Reach the dam at Lac Bleu about 40mins from the refuge, then cross to another path junction where one trail descends steeply to Lac Vert. Ignore this and keep ahead to turn the rock spur of Pic de Grauès (another fixed cable), cross a scree slope and come to Lac Charles (2291m). This also has a small dam that has to be crossed, after which you continue eastward, and after negotiating another steep grass slope the path becomes a track leading to Lac Célinda. There are four options to consider from Lac Célinda: Return to Refuge du Maupas (about 1½hrs). Continue ahead on a path which eventually descends to Col de Pinata on the Crête de la Serre des Cabales , and from there returns to the Vallée du Lis (2½–3hrs). Return to Lac Bleu and descend to Lac Vert , then follow Route 100 back to the Vallée du Lis. Return to the path junction beyond Lac Bleu , where the way down to the valley reverses Route 98 .

Wood-carved footpath sign in the Vallée du Lis

ROUTE 100

Vallée du Lis (1132m) – Lac Vert (2001m) – Lac des Grauès (2042m) – Vallée du Lis

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Vallée du Lis (1132m) 10km 910m 910m 3 6hrs

This circular walk visits the aptly named Lac Vert, noted for its trout, which lies about 200m below the three tarns linked on Route 99 .

Follow Route 98 to the hummocky, slightly boggy Prat Long (2hrs 15mins), then continue uphill towards Refuge du Maupas as far as the first fork where one path breaks to the left. Waymarked with yellow flashes, this is the route to take. For a while it heads southeast at an easy angle, and in one place cuts into a tight little gully with a stream flowing down it, with a fixed cable to aid the crossing. After turning a spur into a secluded coombe, you discover Lac Vert lying just below. Go along the north side of the lake, and at its eastern end cross a low saddle into a scoop which you wander through, then descend to the edge of a grassy basin: the so-called Cirque de Grauès. Cross the outflow stream of tiny Lac des Grauès (2042m) and the grassy bluff above it, after which the descent begins. The way now goes down an easy slope to the head of the valley of the Ruisseau de Houradade, and continues to a junction with the path from Col de Pinata. After this keep to the north side of the stream and pass the shepherd’s hut of Cabane de la Coume at 1714m, then descend to another junction to join path 41 and the familiar route leading back to the Vallée du Lis roadhead.

ROUTE 101

Hospice de France (1385m) – Refuge de Vénasque (2249m) – Port de Vénasque (2444m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Hospice de France (1385m) 4km 1059m 3 3hrs

This route is a must for visitors to the old Hospice de France near the head of the Vallée de la Pique. The Port de Vénasque (Portillon de Benasque) on the frontier ridge was used for hundreds of years by traders, invading armies and – at least since the mid-19th century – adventurous tourists making the classic outing from Luchon. Despite its steepness it remains an understandably popular walk today, for the view of the Maladeta massif from the pass is truly magnificent. The Port de Vénasque is also one of the major access points into the upper Ésera valley for climbers aiming for the Renclusa refugio and the ascent of Pico de Aneto (see Chapter 18 ).

Looking south from the Hospice de France near the head of the Vallée de la Pique

Should you plan to stay overnight at the Refuge de Vénasque , it’s essential to reserve a place in advance (Tel 05 61 79 26 46). The northern slopes below Port de Venasque are threatened most years by avalanche until about the middle of June, and should not be tackled if

there’s any likelihood of unstable snow conditions in the narrow section of the valley leading to the Boums de Port, or between the refuge and the pass itself. Under summer conditions, however, this approach demands little more than a steep walk. From the hospice a signed path crosses the stream by footbridge and heads southwest to climb, easily at first (ignore alternatives to left and right), then in zigzags, through a narrow valley towards the frontier ridge. This ancient mule path needs no detailed description, for it mounts in determined fashion against steep crags to a high stony basin in which the group of tarns known as the Boums du Port are cradled. Beside one of these stands the little Refuge de Vénasque (2–2½hrs from Hospice de France). Refuge de Vénasque (2249m) has 16 places and is manned from June to September (Tel 05 61 79 26 46). From here to the pass should take little more than ½hr. Keeping left of the tarns the trail skirts the base of Pic de la Mine, then gains height in zigzags up scree to find the narrow cleft of Port de Vénasque wedged between Pic de la Mine and Pic de Sauvegarde – out of the shadows of France and into the sunshine of Spain. It’s a magnificent vantage point, for across the depths of the upper Ésera stands the bulk of the Maladeta massif, on which the highest Pyrenean summit (Pico de Aneto) appears as a small point above its glacier. To the southeast the Mulleres group forms a barrier of peaks subordinate to the double-toothed Forcanada. Note Rising above the pass to the west is the 2738m Pic de Sauvegarde , an easy summit with a path on the south side rising directly to the top in 45mins. East of the pass Pic de la Mine (2707m) has a more strenuous route which climbs to the ridge just west of the summit, and there are broken gullies (beware stonefall) on the Spanish flank worth exploring by scramblers.

ROUTE 102

Hospice de France (1385m) – Pas de la Montjoie (2069m) – Pas de l’Escalette (2396m) – Puerto de la Picada (2470m) – Port de Vénasque (2444m) – Hospice de France

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Hospice de France (1385m) 11km 1115m 1115m 3 6½–7hrs

A wonderful cross-border trek with ever-changing views, this circular route traverses no less than four passes. Since it is a very full day, it might be worth breaking it with a night at the Refuge de Vénasque. Note Make a reservation in advance.

Leave the Hospice de France on a broad path that pushes upvalley, heading southeast towards woods at the entrance to the Vallée de la Frèche. In the woods fork left where the path divides, and climb in zigzags until you emerge from the trees onto a rolling pasture. Turn right at the junction with another path, to rise gradually on grass slopes white with drifts of narcissii in spring. The path is straightforward, and you eventually reach the Pas de la Montjoie, marked with a frontier stone. The Franco–Spanish border makes a northerly kink on Soum de l’Escalette a short distance to the south. Do not cross the pass here, but bear right along the rising path which now assumes a southerly course along the grassy Crête de Crabidès. Cut across the west flank of Soum de l’Escalette to gain the Pas de l’Escalette, then descend on the Spanish side to a trail junction. Bear right across the southern slopes of Cap de la Picade, then go up to the broad saddle of the Puerto de la Picada, which you gain about 4hrs from the Hospice de France. Puerto de la Picada forms a boundary between Aragón and Catalunya. On its eastern side lies the Pomèro valley, a glorious natural flower garden worth visiting in springtime when conditions allow. From the pass views compete for grandeur with those from the Port de Vénasque. The Maladeta and Posets massifs naturally make an impact, but the double-summited Forcanada and other rock peaks above the Valleta de la Escaleta are just as

attractive. Cross the pass, but at a junction soon after keep ahead to make your way westward above the upper Ésera valley, and below the frontier ridge. Come onto a grassy terrace to join another path rising from the Ésera, and soon after you’ll gain the final pass of the circuit, the narrow rocky Port de Vénasque. The descent from here to the Hospice de France will take about 2hrs by a good path, but the Refuge de Vénasque is only 20mins below the pass, and refreshments are available when the guardian is on duty (June to September).

14 HAUTE VALLÉE DU GARBET At the eastern end of the Pays de Couserans in the département of Ariège, the Haute Vallée du Garbet above Aulus-les-Bains is like a great basin fed by three catchments, from whose tarns and cascades the district gains its character. The stunning Cascade d’Ars is one of the most dramatic and beautiful of all Pyrenean waterfalls, but there are others too that are worth seeking out. While much of Ariège is sparsely inhabited, its valleys deeply cut and wooded, its mountains seemingly wild and remote, the upper Garbet valley is seductive with trails and rewarding with many fine walks to accomplish. In the high country south and southeast of Aulus, bare rocky peaks send out long ridges that enclose deep coombes glistening with tarns; the catchments of the Fouillet, Ars and Garbet, whose waters join up in, or on the edge of, Aulus. Each of these valleys is worth exploring, as is the enchanting Bassiès lake district on the east side of the Ariège/Haute-Ariège dividing ridge. The GR10 passes through the district, so trekkers gain a fair impression of its delights, but walkers spending a few days based here have opportunities to delve deeper into its recesses. There’s plenty to discover. ACCESS AND INFORMATION Southeast of St-Girons, and northwest of the Estats-Montcalm mountains, in the Pays de Couserans. By the D32 road from Oust, south of St-Girons. Aulus-les-Bains may be reached by bus (not Access Sundays) from St-Girons. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 7 ‘Haute-Ariège’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 series nos: 2048OT Maps ‘Aulus-les-Bains’ and 2148OT ‘Vicdessos’ 1:25,000 Base Aulus-les-Bains (750m) Office de Tourisme, Aulus-les-Bains (05 61 96 01 79 www.aulus-les-bains.com); Office de Information Tourisme du Haute-Couserans (05 61 96 00 01 www.haut-couserans.com) Location

Base AULUS-LES-BAINS (750m) is a small spa township; in truth no more than a village at the southern end of the long and wooded Vallée du Garbet, snug in its basin below the Col de Latrape to the west and Col d’Agnes to the east. Though it has few facilities, it’s the best walking centre for a very long way. There are three hotels and two gîtes d’étape : the 16-place La Goulue (Tel 05 61 66 53 01), and Le Presbytère (Tel 05 61 96 02 21) with 23 places; both gîtes are open throughout the year. There’s also a very pleasant campsite 500m north of the village centre with excellent facilities. The tourist office is centrally located, with a small supermarket and bakery nearby, and the post office forms part of a private house.

The upper Garbet valley is noted for its waterfalls

Refuge REFUGE DE BASSIÈS (1650m) overlooks the glorious Bassiès lakes, and the granite cirque formed by the ridges of Pic Rouge de Bassiès. A comfortable, modern-looking hut with 50 places, it is fully staffed from June to the end of September (Tel 06 89 40 65 00 www.bassies.free.fr ), and is used by anglers as well as GR10 trekkers.

ROUTE 103

Aulus-les-Bains (750m) – Cascade du Fouillet (1310m) – Aulus-lesBains

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Aulus-les-Bains (750m) 7km 560m 560m 2–3 3½hrs

Of the three tributary valleys above Aulus, the Fouillet is the most westerly. A link path to the GR10 climbs through the valley and meets the main trans-Pyrenean route just below the Cascade du Fouillet, the goal for this walk.

From the tourist office leave Aulus on the road to Col de Latrape, and in a very short distance take a path on the right by a barn. After rising, the path crosses the road and continues up a heavily wooded slope to gain about 160m of height. It then contours to the right; on coming to a crossing path by a ruin you turn right, then almost immediately go left (red and yellow waymarks). Remaining within the beechwoods, turn right along another crossing path, then veer left when it forks. About 40mins from Aulus come to a major path junction (995m) with a sign indicating this as the Vallée du Fouillet. Keep ahead in the direction of Passerelle de Bazets, still climbing in woodland, before emerging to a clearing with a small hut (the Passerelle) where a sign directs the route ahead to the Jasse du Fouillet. Pass alongside the hut, go through a strip of woodland, then out to the open pasture of the Jasse du Fouillet, from where you catch a first sight of the cascade. About 5mins later come to another path junction where the left branch goes to Plateau de Souliou (taken by the descent route and GR10), but for the cascade you keep ahead. Climbing once more in woodland, cross a stream and a few moments later the path forks yet again. For a close view of the Cascade du Fouillet descend a few metres on the right; otherwise continue ahead to reach the top of the falls (1hr 45mins from Aulus). To return to Aulus, descend to the path junction above the Jasse du Fouillet (15mins) where the GR10 is signed to the right, towards the Plateau de

Souliou. This path climbs again in woodland, then contours before emerging to the open, rolling plateau with its pasture, broom and mountain views. The way skirts the upper edge to a major junction at 1280m. Leave the GR10 here and turn left to cross the plateau, then descend through woodland. At a crossing path continue ahead, in woodland all the way to the Col de Latrape road a short distance above Aulus-les-Bains.

ROUTE 104

Aulus-les-Bains (750m) – Étang de Guzet (1459m) – Cascade d’Ars (1290m) – Aulus

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Aulus-les-Bains (750m) 12km 810m 810m 3 4½–5hrs

This is quite a demanding walk, with a lot of ups and downs, but plenty of interest throughout.

Begin by following Route 103 as far as the GR10 path junction 5mins above the Jasse du Fouillet, then turn left towards the Plateau de Souliou. Waymarks and a few cairns help keep you on track through the beechwoods where sometimes the leaf mould is so deep as to hide the actual path. On emerging at the plateau with its open views (20mins from the junction), skirt the upper edge to another trail junction at 1280m. Take the right branch (GR10) which climbs in and out of the woods, and in another 30mins you will see a sign indicating the way to the Étang de Guzet via a narrow path on the right.

The Cascade d’Ars falls 110m in three tiers

Lying below the main path, Étang de Guzet is surrounded by trees, which gives the water a green tinge. The lake is teeming with fish and is justifiably popular with anglers. A small meadow on the northwest bank would make a superb wild campsite, while Pic de Mont Rouge tops a craggy ridge above to the south. Continue rising through woodland with tantalising views between the trees to the lake below, then come onto a hillside carpeted with alpenrose and bilberry. A twist in the path takes you onto a slightly marshy, broad grass saddle with lovely views up to the Mont Rouge/Pic Blanc ridge, then makes a traverse of a steep slope from which you can see in the distance the road snaking over Col d’Agnes. Beyond a sign warning of avalanche danger following heavy snowfall, the way turns a spur and enters coniferous forest to follow an undulating course round the mountainside. Crossing a footbridge come to the Passerelle d’Ars (1485m), a beautiful region of rock, grass, alpenrose, bilberry and

tumbling streams. At a signed junction the path to Aulus goes ahead up a slope of rocks, then down in zigzags. Passing against a steep crag you gain a first view of the upper spout of the spectacular Cascade d’Ars by taking a brief side trail for a few paces. A short distance down the main trail you can stray onto a rocky bluff for a close view of the broad tresses of the lower cascade – but be prepared for a soaking! Reckoned by many to be the most beautiful in the Pyrenees, the Cascade d’Ars falls 110m in three tiers. The most direct walk to it from Aulus-lesBains takes a little over 1½hrs. The continuing descent takes you through beechwoods to a concrete bridge, across which you come onto the track of the Piste d’Ars. This can be taken all the way to the road just above Aulus; as an alternative take the right-hand path after a few mins to follow GR10 (muddy in places) down to Aulus in another 45mins.

ROUTE 105

Aulus-les-Bains (Le Garbettou, 1100m) – Plateau de Garbettou (1400m) – Étang du Garbet (1683m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Aulus-les-Bains (Le Garbettou, 1100m) 3.5km 583m 3 2hrs

Southeast of Aulus the source of the Garbet is a wild and rocky cirque formed by ridges linking the Pics de Caumale, Rouge de Bassiès, des Trois Comtes and de la Lesse. There are two lakes, the Étang Bleu and the larger and lower Étang du Garbet. This latter tarn pours a cascade from its outflow, and then spills down into a wonderland of streams, rocks and miniature alpine gardens known as the Plateau de Garbettou. This plateau, and the Garbet lake above it, are the focus of this highly recommended walk. The walk begins about 5km from Aulus on the road to Col d’Agnes where it makes its first left-hand hairpin. There’s space for parking here, and a sign which names this as Le Garbettou.

The path immediately enters beechwoods on the south side of the road, rising easily along the east flank of the Haut Vallée du Garbet. As the way progresses the gradient increases until you emerge from the woods after about 45mins to an open view of a cirque basin extravagant with streams. Descend into the basin where the path (yellow waymarks and cairns) weaves a route among rocks, crossing numerous streams and rivulets (a challenge to retain dry feet!) to reach the west side. The way then veers right, turning briefly away from the cirque, to climb to another grassy bluff before cutting left up a slope of trees and shrubs, rising across the west wall of the basin. Beyond the trees you mount a rocky section and look across to a glorious waterfall (the Cascade du Garbet) exploding above a rock slab and crashing in a cloud of spray.

The Plateau de Garbettou in the Haute Vallée du Garbet

Continue to climb well to the right of the cascade to arrive at the grassy northern end of Étang du Garbet, where the scene reveals another waterfall pouring down the crags at the far end of the lake, and above that a hint of the upper section of the valley. The east side of the lake is precipitous, while the west side consists of rolling, slightly boggy meadowland. Return by the same route in 1½hrs. Note To extend the walk as far as Étang Bleu will take another 1hr, and is a tougher proposition than the main route. The path continues along the west side of Étang du Garbet, and at the southwest corner of the lake, a waymarked route (traces of path, plus cairns) climbs the rocky slope, reaches a small shelter (an orris ) then descends a gully to the Étang Bleu.

ROUTE 106

Aulus-les-Bains (Coumebière, 1399m) – Port de Saleix (1794m) – Refuge de Bassiès (1650m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Aulus-les-Bains (Coumebière, 1399m) 5km 566m 315m 2–3 2½hrs

Following GR10 all the way, this walk crosses two passes on its way to the tarn-spattered wilderness of the Bassiès glen and its comfortable refuge. The route is described as starting at the parking area known as Coumebière, a little over 7km from Aulus on the road to Col d’Agnes. If walking all the way from Aulus, add another 2hrs and follow waymarks from Pont de la Mouline, southeast of the village.

All who stay at the Refuge de Bassiès should visit the Étangs de Bassiès

The path leaves the road on its south side and heads southeastward across sloping pastures matted with bilberries. Waymarked red-white the trail gains height in long and easy loops up the hillside, and forks after 20mins. The left branch goes to the Plateau de Girantès, but for the Port de Saleix you fork right. This pass is reached about 1hr 15mins from the road, and from it you

look down the Saleix glen that drains eastward to Auzat. Note From Port de Saleix an easy ascent of 1hr to the north leads to the summit of Pic de Girantès (2088m). Turn right and mount the steep but easy ridge leading to Mont Garias, but just below the summit cross to the left by a small cairn and descend, steeply at first, then easing to reach the east shore of the little Étang d’Alate (1875m). Cairns lead the way over a clutter of rocks, then up a slope to the grass saddle of Col de Bassiès (1933m) from which you can see the Étang de Bassiès below for the first time. To the south Pic Rouge de Bassiès tops the valley’s headwall. Descend the continuing path in a southerly direction, with the refuge coming into view west of the lake. The path forks in the grassland at the foot of the descent, and you take the right branch for the Refuge de Bassiès. Shortly before you reach it, pass alongside a small orris – a traditional shepherd’s shelter walled with stone, and with a turf roof. To return to the road by the same route will take about 2hrs. Note A full day could happily be spent ambling from tarn to tarn and exploring the valley, one of the loveliest in all Ariège.

15 THE CARLIT MASSIF The Carlit massif marks the eastern limit of the High Pyrenees. Between it and the Mediterranean sprawl rolling sierras and the singularly attractive Pic du Canigou (2784m), which lords it over an extensive region as the symbol of the independence-seeking Catalan region. South of the Carlit lies the suntrap of the Cerdagne, which holds the sunshine record of all France, but to the east is the high, north-facing valley of Capcir with a very different climate. Waters from Carlit lakes flow into both these valleys, as well as to others in the north and west, making this rocky upland a surprisingly generous fountain, despite the efforts of the EDF to tame the largest of its lakes. The Carlit is predominantly granite, a rough-grained land scoured by longdeparted glaciers, with jagged spires and rounded domes mirrored in countless lakes. ‘A sterile waste… sprinkled with mountain tarns’ is how one mountaineer described it 100 years or so ago. On the outer edges a thin mattress of boggy, flower-starred turf oozes with moisture. Birch trees line low-valley streams, while massed pines darken the lower slopes of the mountain rim. In the heartland granite plateaux dominate with tarns of all shapes and sizes; mouflon were reintroduced in the 1950s, and izard are plentiful. It’s a popular region for walking. Both the GR10 and Haute Route cross the massif, while the Tour du Carlit makes a multi-day circuit. There are numerous possibilities for creating your own tours and traverses, as well as enjoying day walks to the interior from valleys on the periphery. In addition several summits are accessible to walkers with only a modicum of experience, although no one should dismiss these mountains lightly; they have their serious side too. Pic Carlit (2921m) is the highest. Rising southeast of Étang (or Lac) de Lanoux it has some attractive features, provides an easy ascent by its voie normale , and rewards with a huge panorama from the summit. Tarns lie wherever you look: jewels flashing from a desert of stone. Visitors with their own transport could explore the outer region on day excursions from centres such as Ax-les-Thermes or Porté-Puymorens, or from villages in the Cerdagne. However, a few refuges within the massif are worth considering. ACCESS AND INFORMATION Location

Access

Maps

Northeast of Andorra and lying entirely in France. Bordered to the south by the Cerdagne and to the east by Capcir. By road from the north via Ax-les-Thermes; from the southwest by the Col de Puymorens and Vallée de Lanous; from the southeast via Mont-Louis and Lac des Bouillouses. There are railway stations at Ax-les-Thermes, Mérens-les-Vals, l’Hospitalet, Porta and Latour de Carol. Mont-Louis is reached by la Petit Train Jaune from Latour de Carol or Villefranche-deConflent. IGN Carte de Randonnées No 8 ‘Cerdagne–Capcir’ 1:50,000; IGN TOP 25 series nos: 2249OT ‘Bourg Madame, Col de Puymorens, Pic Carlit’ and 2249ET ‘Font-Romeu, Capcir’

both at 1:25,000 Bases Ax-les-Thermes (810m), Porté-Puymorens (1623m), plus various villages in the Cerdagne Information Office de Tourisme, Ax-les-Thermes (05 61 64 60 60 www.vallees-ax.com)

Bases AX-LES-THERMES (810m) is a spa town cursed by through-traffic, but a good place from which motorists can set out on tours of the surrounding countryside. Accessible by rail from Paris via Toulouse, there are several hotels, a campsite, restaurants, shops and banks, a tourist office, and a guides bureau (Tel 05 61 64 31 51). Approach to the Carlit region for walkers without their own transport is best via Vallée d’Orlu, southeast of town. Note Orlu has a campsite and accommodation for 40 in the gîte d’étape Le Relais Montagnard (Tel 05 61 04 42 33), open all year.

On the ascent of Pic Carlit; Étang des Fourats below

PORTÉ-PUYMORENS (1623m) – as its name suggests – is situated just below Col de Puymorens midway between Andorra and the Carlit massif. Only a

village, with ambitions for expansion, it nonetheless has a campsite, hotels and a gîte d’étape , the Ferme d’en Garcie (Tel 04 68 04 95 44) with 31 places, open all year. The village also has a restaurant and shop, and the Vallée de Lanous stretches to the east, with Pic Carlit easily accessible. See www.portepuymorens.net .

Other Accommodation and Facilities MERENS-LES-VALS lies upvalley from Ax on the route of the GR10, and has a gîte d’étape Auberge du Nabre (Tel 05 61 01 89 36 www.sentierspyreneens.com ), as does L’HOSPITALET (Tel 05 61 05 23 14 www.gitelhospitalet.com ). L’Hospitalet also has a campsite and a hotel. Below Porté-Puymorens PORTA has no shops but gîte accommodation at La Pastorale (Tel 04 68 04 83 92 www.equi-libre.fr ), and there’s a 10-place Chambres d’hôte at the tiny hamlet of BÉNA (Tel 04 68 04 88 21) on the Tour du Carlit. Finally there’s a 32-place gîte d’étape at the end of LAC DES BOUILLOUSES , the Gîte-auberge du Carlit (Tel 04 68 04 22 23), and at both MONT-LOUIS and FONT-ROMEU on the south side of the district there’s a wide choice of accommodation available.

Refuges REFUGE D’EN BEYS (1970m) is located on the northern side of the region, on the shores of Étang d’En Beys (one of the sources of l’Oriège). Reached by a walk of about 2½–3hrs from the roadhead in Vallée d’Orlu, it has 70 places and is staffed from late May to the end of September (Tel 05 61 64 24 24 www.refuge-enbeys.com ). REFUGE DES BESINES (2104m) is a modern hut owned by the CAF and built above and to the east of Étang des Besines. Visited by both the GR10 and Haute Route, it has 56 places and is fully staffed from June to the end of September (Tel 09 88 77 35 28 www.besines.free.fr ). CHALET-REFUGE DES BOUILLOUSES (2005m) is owned by the CAF, has 59 places, and is staffed from June to the end of September, and in the ski season from late December to the end of April (Tel 04 68 04 93 88 www.refugedesbouillouses.ffcam.fr ). Standing south of Lac des Bouillouses, it’s on the route of the GR10, HRP and Tour du Carlit, and is accessible by car from Mont-Louis (the D60). REFUGE-HOTEL LES BONES HORES (2050m) is a large building at the western end of the Bouillouses dam, and is open from Easter to the end of September with 90 places (Tel 04 68 04 24 22 www.boneshores.fr ).

ROUTE 107

Orlu (Pont de Bisp, 1180m) – Refuge d’En Beys (1970m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Orlu (Pont de Bisp, 1180m) 7km 790m 2–3 2½–3hrs

This standard approach to Refuge d’En Beys is within the Réserve Nationale d’Orlu. Established in 1981 as a wildlife reserve, it now has a population of around 1000 izard. The start of the walk is the large roadhead car park on the very edge of the réserve , about 6km southeast of Orlu village, reached from Ax-les-Thermes.

A broad path continues from the car park, crosses the Pont de Bisp and follows l’Oriège upstream. Used by GR7 the path is straightforward, rising gently at first and heading southeast. On reaching the Jasse de Justiniac (1287m) it curves to the south and soon forks. At this junction a variante of GR7 breaks to the left to cross the stream before climbing to a saddle below Roc Blanc, but our route remains on the west side of the stream for much of the way, and is steep in places where the valley narrows. About 2½hrs from the roadhead come to Étang d’En Beys; the refuge is located above the north shore.

ROUTE 108

Refuge d’En Beys (1970m) – Porté-Puymorens (1623m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refuge d’En Beys (1970m) 16km 433m 780m 3 6–7hrs

On this route the Réserve Nationale d’Orlu is left at the 2403m Porteille d’Orlu which serves as a gateway to the Carlit region. From there a descent leads to the large dammed Étang de Lanoux in view of Pic Carlit, before heading down to Porté-Puymorens.

On leaving the hut walk to the far western end of the lake, beyond which the path forks. The right branch climbs over the walling ridge for a return to Orlu, while the GR7 swings round a small tarn then climbs over boulders heading southwest into the upper part of the horseshoe that dominates d’En Beys. Where the path divides near another tarn, take the left fork and climb to the saddle of Porteille d’Orlu. Over the pass the trail cuts down to a pair of small tarns (Estanys de Rouzet), passes between them and descends to Étang de Lanoux and a junction of paths. Keep ahead to follow the route along the eastern side of this large lake. On coming to the dam at its southern end, cross to the west side and follow a clear, easy path all the way down to Porté-Puymorens.

ROUTE 109

l’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre (1436m) – Refuge des Bésines (2104m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

l’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre (1436m) 6km 700m 2 3hrs

Near the southern end of the long valley of l’Ariège south of Ax-les-Thermes, l’Hospitalet is an uninspiring collection of buildings near the railway station from which buses feed visitors into Andorra. It’s a good place for non-motorised walkers to begin a journey into the Carlit massif, and the following approach is used by trekkers on the Haute Route.

A signpost near the gîte d’étape indicates the start of the path to the refuge. It climbs out of the village and crosses the N20 road near a hairpin bend, rejoins the road to the next hairpin, then climbs gently to the northeast following redwhite waymarks across a wooded hillside. At a path junction fork left on GR107c and before long come to a pass where you turn a spur. After crossing a stream the way rises, heading east to bring you to a former railway track used during construction of the dam at Étang des Bésines. Follow this to the lake, which you reach about 2½hrs from l’Hospitalet. Wander along its right-hand (south) side, cross a very pleasant meadowland, over a footbridge and up through pines to the modern Refuge des Bésines.

ROUTE 110

Walking Tour of the Vallée de Lanous

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Porté-Puymorens (1623m) 12km (or 8km with transport) 327m 327m 2 4–5hrs

The circuit proper starts and finishes at the roadhead in the Vallée de Lanous. Walkers with their own transport can save 4km by driving into the valley and parking at the roadhead near the base of an electricity works cableway. It’s an attractive walk, especially in spring or early summer when wild flowers are at their best. Note Paths are not always clearly defined.

Étang de Font Vive in the Vallée de Lanous

At 2921m Pic Carlit reigns supreme over a large district of tarn, stream and rock

From Porté-Puymorens wander eastward into the Vallée de Lanous on a narrow road which ends after 4km. It’s a gentle walk with rough pastures to one side, mountain slopes on the other and the Carlit massif directly ahead. The road ends beyond a lake and the circuit begins 50m north of an electricity works building where a narrow trail climbs among pines and alongside a small stream. There are various alternative paths after a while, but you keep just to the left of overhead cables until emerging in an open meadow. Wander up its right-hand edge to gain a second meadowland, then bear right on a waymarked path leading to Étang de Font Vive. Go along the north shore to the far end. Leave the lake, but continue heading east across a pasture and descend among trees into the head of the valley where you find a bridge over a stream below some cascades. Across this bear right at a path junction. The trail meanders above the stream, then veers left near a ravine. Climb to a grassy saddle. The way (cairned) now gradually loses height with views to Andorra’s mountain border. Pass through walled meadows and pinewoods and come to a broad track. Bear right, cross a bridge to reach the Lanous valley roadhead, and wander down the road back to Porté.

ROUTE 111

Porté-Puymorens (1623m) – Pic Carlit (2921m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Porté-Puymorens (1623m) 10km 1298m F (voie normale via Étang de Lanoux and the Northwest Face) 4½–5hrs

If you start and end in Porté-Puymorens, this will make a long day’s effort. The approach through Vallée de Lanous is charming, while the actual ascent of Pic Carlit is short, steep and straightforward.

PIC CARLIT (2921M), ROUTES 111–113 Standing in a prominent position southeast of Éstany (or Lac) de Lanoux, Pic Carlit – the highest summit in the eastern Pyrenees – makes an obvious target for all who are drawn to the massif. First climbed by Henry Russell in 1864, the mountain is not difficult by either of its standard routes, while a traverse from one side to the other, as experienced by trekkers on the Haute Route, makes a long but rewarding day out.

There are three ways to reach Étang de Lanoux from Porté: Take the clear path (GR7) that leaves the easternmost hairpin bend of the Puymorens road just above the village, and rises gradually along the northern slopes of the Lanous valley as far as the dam at the end of the lake. Cross the dam to its eastern side and proceed along a narrow path, heading northeast with Pic Carlit ahead. After a few hundred metres a small dam is seen off to the left with a small cabane above it. The alternative route leaves Porté by the narrow road running east into the Lanous valley. Shortly before you reach a point almost level with the dam at the end of the lake seen below, a path climbs away from the road to the left. This rises steeply for about 10mins before joining the main path referred to in the first option. Turn right and follow round to the hut as described above. The shortest option begins at the roadhead in the Vallée de Lanous, and follows Route 110 as far as Étang de Font Vive. A path then climbs steeply from the western end of the lake to join the main GR7 route described in the above two options.

The view east from Pic Carlit From Étang de Lanoux to the summit

Head into the Fourats glen on a winding path with Pic Carlit directly ahead. Follow a line of cairns over boulders as far as the little Étang des Fourats (2457m) below the northwest side of the mountain. Head east towards the face of Pic Carlit, crossing a long slope of shale to reach the foot of an obvious Y-shaped gully up which a steep zigzag path is clearly seen. There is nothing difficult about the ascent of this gully, which works up the right arm of the Y to gain a small pass (2910m), with the summit above to the right. To reach the summit bear right at the pass and walk up the ridge, reaching the top in a little under 2hrs from Étang de Lanoux.

ROUTE 112

Chalet-Refuge des Bouillouses (2005m) – Pic Carlit (2921m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Chalet-Refuge des Bouillouses (2005m) 7km 916m F (voie normale from the east) 3–3½hrs

A shorter ascent of Pic Carlit than that described as Route 111 , it is perhaps slightly more demanding, with the steep ridge leading to the summit giving some brief but interesting sections of scrambling. The mountain is very popular, so make an early start if you want to avoid too many people on the summit.

From the western side of the Bouillouses dam follow a clear path branching left among trees, then turn northwest (fork right at a junction) to pass along the edge of Estany del Viver. Continue through an attractive landscape of streams and pools known as the Désert du Carlit, still heading northwest to a string of tarns, which you pass to your right. The first of these is Estany de les Dougnes, with the smaller Estany de Valiell on your left. All around there are tiny pools, many of which are not shown on the map. Alpenrose, juniper and mattresses of heather create a wonderful natural garden through which the clear trail leads, now making a more westerly course towards Pic Carlit. Beyond the last of the tarns (Étang de Soubirans), you lose a little height on grass and come to the start of the stony ascent of Carlit itself. The path continues to be clearly defined with cairns and waymarks, and leads interestingly, and with a little scrambling, to the small pass (2910m) just below and to the right of the actual summit. Bear left and walk to the top.

West of Lac des Bouillouses lies the so-called Désert du Carlit

ROUTE 113

The Carlit Lakes Tour

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time Accommodation

Porté-Puymorens (1623m) 39km 1719m 1719m 3 2 days Chalet-Refuge des Bouillouses (2005m)

A fine circuit that includes the summit of Pic Carlit, displays some remarkable scenery, and enables the walker to explore some of the best the area has to offer.

For the first section of this tour – from Porté to the summit of Pic Carlit – see Route 111 ; for the summit to Lac des Bouillouses simply reverse Route 112 . Straightforward and clearly defined, it leads through the wonderland of dwarf pine, tarns and pools and extravagant vegetation curiously known as the Désert du Carlit. Lac des Bouillouses, at the head of a road from Mont-Louis, is extremely popular with anglers, walkers and picnic parties. Spend the night at the Chalet-Refuge, and next day walk north along the western shore of the lake following the route of the GR10 among pines and over rough boulders. At the far end of the lake the trail veers left to enter the valley of the Gave de la Tet (Rec de la Grava). Soon this popular trail rises towards the head of the valley by a series of short grass steps (ignore alternative paths), and near the valleyhead you curve left to enter an upper level with a small tarn (l’Estanyol). Above this come to the Portella de la Grava (2426m), a broad grassy saddle. Below to the west lies the huge Étang de Lanoux; to the south rough slopes rise to Pic Carlit. Continue along the GR10 down towards the lake, but when it forks (signpost), take the left branch and skirt the south bank on the path of GR7, crossing various knolls before reaching the dam at the lake’s southern end. Here you rejoin the path which brought you up from Porté-Puymorens.

The Carlit Lakes Tour begins in the lovely Lanous valley

ROUTE 114

Tour du Carlit

Start/Finish Distance Grade Time Accommodation

Chalet-Refuge des Bouillouses (2005m) 45km 3 3 days Hotels and gîte at Porté-Puymorens, gîtes d’étape at Porta and Béna

The Carlit massif wears two faces. In the north and central regions it’s a harsh, bold land of granite and water, but its other face smiles at the sun. Soft and green the southern slopes overlook the warm expanse of the Cerdagne, and the waymarked Tour du Carlit provides an opportunity to explore both sides of its character.

The first stage of the tour heads north along the shores of Lac des Bouillouses, then swings northwest to cross Portella de la Grava, traverses above Étang de Lanoux and descends to Porté-Puymorens (Ferme d’en Garcie Tel 04 68 04 95 44). This is described in more detail as the second part of the Carlit Lakes Tour (Route 113 ). A combination of footpath and track then heads downvalley to the stone-built village of Porta for an overnight in the gîte d’étape , La Pastorale (Tel 04 68 04 83 92). The shortest of the three stages goes from Porta to Béna. Immediately upon leaving Porta a climb of some 800m brings you to a spur projecting west from Pic de Comaou. From the high pastures leading to Col de l’Homme Mort (2300m) a fresh appreciation of the mountains is revealed, for a vast rolling country spreads out to the east, draining into the Cerdagne. From here to the hamlet of Béna (limited accommodation at the farm, Le Mas Franc Tel 04 68 04 88 21) the walk is almost entirely downhill, with glorious views that seem to grow broader with every step. Leaving Béna the route continues eastward, passing through yet more tiny, time-forgotten hamlets like Fànes and Brangoly, then crosses Col de Jouell to slope down to Dorres (Hotel Marty Tel 04 68 30 07 52 www.hotelmarty.com ), a handsome place and one of the jewels of the Cerdagne. Shortly after this the tour breaks to the north, working a way through the peaceful Vallée d’Angoustrine. Modest hills guarded by granite tors form the walls to this valley, headed by Puig del Cap de l’Homme. Skirting below the Puig you enter a new landscape for the final stretch leading to Lac des Bouillouses.

OTHER ROUTES IN THE CARLIT REGION

Possibilities for walks and tours within the Carlit region are almost inexhaustible; the map is criss-crossed with suggestions. Note Not all routes marked on the map have obvious trails on the ground. The 2810m Pic Peric (Puig Peric) provides an interesting 3½–4hr ascent from Lac des Bouillouses for a splendid summit panorama. Northeast of this conical mountain lie the Estanys de Camporelles . Though they may be gained by a cross-country walk from Bouillouses (on the Tour du Capcir), they’re more easily reached from a narrow road which climbs from Formiguères to the Fontane de la Calmazeilles. The 20-place Refuge de Camporells (2240m Tel 06 82 12 99 22 www.capcir-pyrenees.com ) stands beside one of the tarns. Open all year, it serves as a useful base for an ascent of Pic Peric, or for a wider exploration of the district, including a tour of the Camporells Tarns which links almost a dozen lakes and smaller pools. North of the Camporells refuge Pic de la Montagnette (2436m) may be climbed from the west – a recommended long (7–8hr) circuit from Formiguères via the Vallée du Galbe includes this summit, plus that of the Serre de Maury to the east.

THE SPANISH PYRENEES Ordesa to Andorra

Granite peaks and small lakes; the view from Collado de Lac de Mar (Routes 143–154)

16 ORDESA NATIONAL PARK The great canyons of Ordesa and Añisclo are the best-known features of the Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Europe’s most spectacular regions whose extraordinary landscapes are of equal appeal to walkers, climbers, artists and naturalists. Monte Perdido (Mont Perdu) acts as the park’s hub, with Ordesa and Añisclo radiating spokelike from it to west and south. To the southeast the lesser-known ravine of the Gargantas de Escuaín cuts into the high country, while the beautiful Valle de Pineta has its headwall immediately below Perdido’s east flank. The park’s northern border traces the frontier ridge from Pic des Gabiètous at the western end of the Cirque de Gavarnie as far east as the Circo de Pineta, then runs south along the west wall of the Pineta valley before tracing a ragged, arthritic route westward to enclose the canyons that are the main focus of attention here. Ordesa’s canyon – originally gouged out by glacial action, then deepened by the Rio Arazas which drains the western flanks of Monte Perdido – is geologically unusual in that it lies roughly parallel with the frontier crest. Añisclo, on the other hand, is more conventional in its north–south flow with the Rio Vellos rising on the southern slopes of the Perdido massif.

From the Faja de Pelay the upper walls of Ordesa come into focus (Route 117)

Seen from Monte Perdido the curious plateau-like highlands fanning out below seem to have been sliced by a great knife. It was this that first attracted Ramond de Carbonnières when he reached the summit in 1802, and inspired the explorations that were later recorded in his Voyages au Mont Perdu . But it was Charles Packe whose visits in the early 1860s introduced both Ordesa and Añisclo to British mountaineers through his guidebook and articles in the Alpine Journal . Not known for extravagant descriptions, his enthusiasm for Ordesa is obvious. ‘Truly grand is the walk down the valley,’ he wrote. ‘First we have a series of cascades… then come the magnificent walls… rising above the forest zone, the ruddy pinnacles and bastions towering above the trees for a thousand metres and then capped with snow.’ Of Añisclo he later wrote: ‘In places the walls of rock so overhang the stream as all but to bar passage; in others they recede in terraces, rising one above the other, and supporting on their ledges impossible fir-trees.’ Yet it was Frenchman Lucien Briet who did more than anyone to publicise the attractions of Ordesa in a series of visits in the early years of the 20th century,

and which helped bring about the canyon’s protection as a National Park in 1918. Ordesa is more open and accessible than Añisclo, and its wildly coloured rocks form an indelible impression: soaring faces, shadowed ravines, seductive amphitheatres of an ochre hue, and vast slab pinnacles seemingly transported from the Dolomites. ‘If Arazas were in the Alps its peculiar and contrasted beauty of trees and rocks and the facilities for climbing would have made it a centre’ – so wrote a leading member of the Alpine Club after his visit in 1913. Now, with ease of access by road, the canyon walls and the great foaming waterfalls of the Arazas are regularly admired by large crowds of visitors each summer. Only the more adventurous stray much further than a viewpoint overlooking the first of these waterfalls. By contrast Añisclo is much more narrow and mysterious and requires more effort to discover. Although there’s minor road access to its lower reaches, the compelling beauty that is a hallmark of Ordesa is missing at this point, and only those who penetrate on foot to the deep heart of the canyon will absorb its true majesty. Then it’s very much a case of ‘once seen, never forgotten’. The Gargantas de Escuaín between Añisclo and the Valle de Pineta is probably the least-known section of the National Park. The Rio Yaga and its cascades have cut an unbelievably narrow slice in the wooded limestone plateau to create the Valle de Escuaín (a popular venue for canyoning). On its southwest lip at the end of a tortuous 15km road huddles the tiny, all-butabandoned hamlet from which the valley takes its name. In 1850 Escuaín (1215m) had a population of 138; by 1960 it had been abandoned. In 1981 there was a single inhabitant, and three lived there in 1991. In the early summer of 2000 a lone goatherd had the place to himself. Two long-distance trails pass through (GR15: the Sendero Prepirenaico, and GR19: Sendero del Sobrarbe), and there’s a pleasant 2hr walk from Escuaín to the Puente de los Mallos near the head of the gorge. GR15 links Escuaín with the hamlet of Estaronilla (four inhabitants) beside the Yaga, and on this eastern side of the gorge there are other tiny hamlets, including Revilla (1220m), as remote as Escuaín. Another minor road snakes into this forgotten corner by way of Tella, which has a National Park information office. The Valle de Pineta is a charming U-shaped valley that betrays its glacial origin. At its head the Circo de Pineta supports a high sub-valley, the Balcon de Pineta, which looks directly onto the Northeast Face of Monte Perdido with its impressive tiers of ice cliffs. These are all that remain of the glacier responsible for carving the Valle de Pineta: bands of ice, and the austere beauty of semi-frozen tarns, waterfalls and clear streams. Above them all Monte Perdido reigns supreme. The Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido is a fabulous region, not only

in terms of its scenic quality but also its wildlife, which numbers some 171 bird species, 32 mammals, 8 reptiles and 5 species of amphibia. It is also renowned for its plantlife, most obviously for the trees – beech, silver fir, box and mountain pine – and masses of flowers that carpet the low meadows and high grasslands, and adorn the rock faces. The park claims to be home to more than 1500 species of Pyrenean flora. The endemic Ramonda myconi – found among the cliffs of Añisclo and the Circo de Pineta – is among the most spectacular, but edelweiss, alpenrose, gentian and orchid, and swathes of crocus are also there in season to delight all who visit. ACCESS AND INFORMATION South of the Cirques de Gavarnie and Estaubé. The National Park comprises the canyons of Ordesa, Añisclo and Escuaín, and the upper reaches of the Valle de Pineta. By road to Ordesa: from France via Col du Pourtalet to Biescas, then east to Torla; or via the Bielsa Tunnel to Ainsa and northwest from there. Access to Añisclo is south from the Bielsa Tunnel to Escalona, then northwest on a minor road. For the Gargantas de Escuaín Access take a narrow road signed to Escuaín a little west of Escalona. Valle de Pineta is easily accessible from Bielsa. Public transport is by bus from Sabiñanigo to Torla for Ordesa (Sabiñanigo being on the Zaragoza–Canfranc railway line). There is no public transport serving Añisclo, Escuaín or Bielsa. Editorial Alpina ‘Ordesa y Monte Perdido’ 1:40,000; Editorial Pirineo ‘Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park’ 1:40,000 comes with a useful booklet with English text; the IGN Maps Carte de Randonnées No 4 ‘Bigorre’ 1:50,000 slightly overlaps to include the Park’s northern rim Torla (1033m) for Ordesa; Bielsa (1024m) for the Valle de Pineta; camping at Puyarruego Bases (680m) west of Escalona for Añisclo and Escuaín Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido, Plaza de Cervantes 5, 22071 Huesca (974 243 Information 361 www.ordesa.net), Torla Turismo (974 229 804) Location

Bases TORLA (1033m) is located about 4km south of the entrance to the Ordesa canyon. It has several hotels, two albergues with dormitory accommodation (Refugio Lucien Briet Tel 974 486 221 and L’Atalaya Tel 974 486 022) and three campsites along the road to Ordesa. There are bars, restaurants, shops, a bank (with ATM) and a post office. Despite expansion, the heart of the village retains some of its former charm with narrow alleyways climbing between old stone buildings. Upvalley there’s a Parque Nacional information office housed in a former Parador, with interesting exhibitions. In high summer a shuttle bus service transports visitors from Torla to the roadhead car park at Pradera de Ordesa inside the National Park boundary. See www.torla.es for more information. BIELSA (1024m) sits at the entrance to the Valle de Pineta, with an attractive central square. This large village boasts several hotels, restaurants, banks and shops, and has a tourist information office open in summer (Tel 974 500 767 www.bielsa.com ). A well-equipped campsite (the Pineta) is located about 8km

upvalley, and near the head of the valley there’s an approved camping area with basic facilities on the south side of the river. On the north side, about 14km from Bielsa, stands the rather expensive Parador Nacional de Monte Perdido hotel (Tel 974 501 011). There’s also a refugio (see below).

Refugios REFUGIO DE GÓRIZ (2170m) – otherwise known as Refugio Gaulis, or Delgado Ubeda – is the only manned refuge within the National Park. Staffed throughout the year, there are 72 dormitory places and a full meals service (Tel 974 341 201 www.goriz.es ). It stands in somewhat barren country on the southwest slopes of Monte Perdido, and is reached by an interesting walk through the canyon. Note Wild camping is officially forbidden in the Valle de Ordesa below 2200m, but allowed on terraces near the Góriz hut.

Flanking the Balcon de Pineta, abrupt cliffs carry the frontier crest (Route 122)

REFUGIO DE BUJARUELO (1338m) is located north of Torla in the Ara valley below the Port de Boucharo, and is accessible by vehicle along a dirt road.

With 48 places, it is manned from March to the end of October (Tel 974 486 412 www.refugiodebujaruelo.com ). There’s also a popular campsite adjacent. REFUGIO DE RONATIZA-PINETA (1240m) was built in 1997 and is accessible by vehicle. It stands just below the valley road near the head of the Valle de Pineta, has its own climbing wall, and is manned all year round with places for 73 and meals provision (Tel 974 501 203 www.refugiopineta.com ).

ROUTE 115

Torla (1033m) – Pradera de Ordesa (1320m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Torla (1033m) 6km 287m 2 2hrs

The vast majority of visitors to Ordesa either travel by car (outside the main summer season) and fill the large parking area at the roadhead, or use the shuttle bus service from Torla. For those using Torla as a base, this walk is a much-to-be-preferred option.

The route begins beside Hostal Bellavista on the road which bypasses the village, where a signed path descends to the river. Here you cross the Rio Ara on a humpback bridge, turn left and wander upvalley, joining the track of the Camino de Turieto on the east bank as you curve into the canyon, and rising above several waterfalls on the way. Finally cross one of two bridges that will take you to the roadhead on the opposite bank. Close by the Pradera de Ordesa car park there’s a restaurant and public toilet.

ROUTE 116

Pradera de Ordesa (1320m) – Refugio de Góriz (2170m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Pradera de Ordesa (1320m) 9.5km 850m 3 4hrs

This is the main route of approach to the Góriz refugio , and one which makes a traverse of the Ordesa canyon before climbing the Circo de Soaso headwall.

At the eastern end of the roadhead car park a signed trail leads through shrubbery across grass neat as a Surrey lawn, keeping some way from the river and rising through woods towards a gorge. On the left is the towering Fraucata face of Monte Arruebo at the entrance to the Circo de Cotatuero. Behind you will be seen the flake of Tozal del Mallo in profile, while across the canyon the long wall of the Sierra de las Cutas extends flat-topped in both directions. Continue along the path which climbs through the woods in a southeasterly direction within earshot of the falls. These are mostly unseen, but at the top of a steep section of path you come into view of the top fall, the dramatic Cascada Frachinal. From here the view over forest and lower valley is ample reward for the walk so far, and many visitors stray no further than this. The path climbs on, then emerges from forest into the valley’s upper level. Along this stretch there are one or two rough shelters intended for use in emergency only.

Refugio Góriz, 4hrs’ walk from the Ordesa roadhead

Crossing meadows you will reach a rocky section which the path ascends to the left of a delightful series of cascades known as the Gradas de Soaso, where the stream falls over broad steps bordered by cushions of moss and miniature pines. At the top of this you enter the final meadows below the Circo de Soaso, with the great bulk of Monte Perdido and Sum de Ramond above, and the lovely waterfall of Cola de Caballo (the ‘Horse’s Tail’) tumbling down the lefthand side of the cirque walls. At the head of the valley the path crosses the stream on the Puente de Soaso. A signpost here gives two options for the continuing route: A direct ascent of the cirque wall is possible by the Clavijas – fixed chains and pegs, suitable only for the sure-footed; this route begins to the right of the waterfall. The alternative (the Camino de las Mulas) swings in zigzags up the face of the cirque and joins the other path at the top of the clavijas . Having gained height the path then takes a northerly course, waymarked with paint flashes, rising steadily to gain the hut about 1hr from the Circo de Soaso.

ROUTE 117

Pradera de Ordesa (1320m) – Circo de Soaso (1880m) – Faja de Pelay – Ordesa

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Pradera de Ordesa (1320m) 12km 580m 580m 3 5hrs

This circuit is one of the great walks of the region. It stands as one of the classic walks of the Pyrenees that ought to be on the list of all walkers visiting the National Park. Although the trail along the airy belvedere of the Faja de Pelay is scenically dramatic, under normal summer conditions there’s nothing difficult or dangerous about it. Note The final descent to the valley via the so-called Senda de los Cazadores is a knee-straining plunge amid forest.

Near the head of Ordesa’s canyon, walkers on the Faja de Pelay have a direct view of Monte Perdido

Follow Route 116 to the Circo de Soaso (3hrs). Crossing the stream by the Puente de Soaso bear right along an obvious path that rises easily, then levels among shrubs and dwarf pine, with magnificent views growing as you progress along it. The Faja de Pelay follows along the 1900m contour and maintains

interest all the way. A short distance beyond the Mirador de Calcilarruego (a small shelter with a projecting walled bay providing a stunning view over the valley) you will come to a path junction. Bear right and descend the very steep Senda de los Cazadores through forest for almost 600m to reach the bed of the valley, where you cross the Rio Arazas to the car park by way of a wooden bridge.

ROUTE 118

Pradera de Ordesa (1320m) – Faja los Canarellos (1775m) – Ordesa

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Pradera de Ordesa (1320m) 9km 455m 455m 3 4–5hrs

Another exciting high-level route, the Faja los Canarellos is a little more exposed than the Faja de Pelay (Route 117 ), and tackles the steep walls that guard the east side of the Circo de Cotatuero just beyond the Ordesa car park. Note Despite providing plenty of great views, it should not be attempted by anyone with a tendency towards vertigo.

From the parking area take the main track upvalley signed to the Cascadas. After about 8mins the way forks. Take the left-hand option, a well-made path that weaves through woodland, then winds up the left side of the Barranco de Cotatuero. After about 1hr come to a small wooden shelter beside the trail (1630m). A few paces beyond this bear right where the path divides, and cross a footbridge just below a waterfall that pours from the upper cirque. It’s a wonderful situation, with soaring ochre-coloured walls and feathery cascades in view. Over the bridge the path zigzags to gain more height, then at about 1725m it eases to the right among a few pines. Beyond the trees cross an open sloping sill of rock and scree, and gain a fine aerial view onto the Ordesa forest. Reaching a high point the path eventually turns the south spur of the Circo de Cotatuero then slopes down a little among pine, silver birch and boxwood. Coming to a shallow indent on the Fraucata face the path teeters along a narrow shelf – exposed but safeguarded with a sturdy chain – after which you cross a stream on stepping stones and soon begin the descent through the Bosque de la Hayas. In places a trail of cairns guides the way down through the woodland, bringing you onto the main valley track. To visit the Gradas de Soaso waterfalls, bear left and walk upvalley for about 40mins. To complete the circuit turn right and follow the track downhill, with opportunities to study the impressive Arazas waterfalls on the way to the car park. ROCK CLIMBING IN ORDESA

One only need peer up at the vertical cliffs that wall the canyon to realise that rock climbing here is a serious affair. Major cliffs are those of Mondarruego, Tozal del Mallo, Gallinero and the Fraucata face of Monte Arruebo upon which there is still scope for creating new routes. A layered combination of sandstone cliffs topped by terraces of grass and a limestone headwall make for an interesting scene; there are big overhangs and lots of exposure but the rock is generally sound, but with some loose sections. The South Face of Tozal del Mallo attracts most attention. First climbed over two days in 1957 by Blotti, Dufourmantelle, Jaccoux, Kahn and Jean Ravier, their 300m Voie Originale (sometimes known as the Voie Ravier ) is a true classic, now graded TD (V+, 6a). There are several other lines, almost all of which offer spectacular situations with either vertical or gently overhanging pitches, fortunately with good belays. Since climbing anywhere in the canyon falls outside the scope of this book, readers with an active interest in the area’s potential should consult Derek L. Walker’s Rock Climbs in the Pyrenees (Cicerone, 1990), Passages Pyrénéens by Rainier Munsch, Christian Ravier and Rémi Thivel (Éditions du Pin à Crochets, 1999), or Escaladas en Ordesa by Santi Llop (Édition Roc, 1986).

ROUTE 119

Refugio de Góriz (2170m) – Collado de Arrablo (2329m) – Añisclo Canyon – Puente de San Úrbez (980m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refugio de Góriz (2170m) 16km 159m 1349m 2–3 6–6½hrs

This is a route to cherish, for it leads through almost the complete length of the canyon, from top to bottom; a fabulous walk with plenty of opportunities to laze by the stream or bathe in one of its many beautiful deep pools. Note Initially the descent of the Barranco Arrablo, by which Añisclo is reached, requires caution, and the descent continues very steeply as far as Fon Blanca near the head of the canyon.

AÑISCLO The annexation of the Añisclo Canyon to the Parque Nacional de Ordesa came as a huge relief to all who feared the flooding of this glorious valley for hydro purposes in the 1970s. Protected by National Park status it’s a delight to descend through the narrow canyon to absorb its unique atmosphere, its tranquillity, dappled light and spray-dampened vegetation that was so beloved by the pioneers.

In order to reach the Añisclo Canyon from the Góriz refugio it is necessary to cross the easy saddle of Collado de Arrablo (or Collado Superior de Goríz). This lies to the southeast of the refugio , from which the clearly marked path of GR11 leads on a fairly level course before rising to the col (30mins). From the collado one gains a first hint of the canyon ahead, while behind the scene is suggestive of a bleak dry wilderness. Descend into a grassy basin with a stream flowing through it; the Barranco Arrablo (also known as Barranco Fon Blanca) dropping away ahead. Wander along the southwest edge of the Arrablo gorge, following a line of cairns for about 400m. Still led by cairns, now descend into the gorge down a broken line of cliffs to reach a grassy terrace about 50m below. Bear right along the terrace on a faint path to another band of rocks. The route is well cairned and obvious as you descend several terraces broken by more rock bands. Finally go down a boulder slope to a mixture of grit, grass, thistles and scree, at the bottom of which you come to the stream flowing through the gorge. Cross the stream to a continuing path, now on the northeastern side of Barranco

Arrablo, rise a little, then begin to lose height with a series of zigzags on grit and scree (caution advised). The path works its way down to pass near the Fon Blanca waterfall, and among fragrant box trees you reach the bed of the Valle de Añisclo; there’s a small stone hut nearby. Here the Rio Bellos cascades down a series of natural rock steps and through deep green pools: a beautiful sight (2½–3hrs from Refugio de Góriz).

Walkers near Fon Blanca on the descent to the Añisclo Canyon

Leaving the route of GR11 (which now climbs to Collado de Añisclo), bear right and wander downvalley. Soon come to a bridge, cross to the left bank and continue downvalley, and before long you will enter the canyon proper where the towering walls lean closer to each other. A good path climbs among trees and shrubs, then levels with the Bellos stream far below. After almost 1hr from the foot of Barranco Arrablo the path forks (signpost). Take the right branch (the left branch climbs to Cuello Vicento) and descend in long, well-made zigzags to recross the Bellos again by a bridge. Now on the right bank the path continues on an undulating course, and about 10mins later

divides again. Take the left fork and wander through beautiful beechwoods. Once across the mouth of the Barranco de Pardina continue downvalley on the right bank all the way for almost 2hrs, until you reach another bridge and cross to the left bank. Pass the shrine of San Úrbez and cross to the right bank once more, this time on a bridge built above the medieval humpback Puente de San Úrbez. Here you come upon a tarmac road (parking area nearby) which leads for 12.5km down to Escalona. If, however, you head into the Valle de Vió (the valley of the Rio Aso) through which the road climbs, you can get to the hamlet of Nerín (1281m) 8km away, where basic accommodation and refreshments may be had (see Route 120 ).

ROUTE 120

The Spanish Canyons Tour

Start/Finish Height gain Height loss Grade Time Accommodation

Ordesa 2122m 2122m 3 3 days Refugio de Góriz; hotel, albergue or pension in Nerín

This 3-day circuit, which entails wandering through both the Ordesa and Añisclo canyons, makes quite a demanding tour, and the heat of summer may add to those demands – particularly on the final stage from Nerín where there is little shade. It is unquestionably one of great beauty that will appeal to experienced wild-country trekkers.

The first stage goes from the Pradera de Ordesa car park to Refugio de Góriz (see Route 116 ). The second day’s walk crosses Collado de Arrablo and descends through the Añisclo Canyon (Route 119 ) to the Puente de San Úrbez. From there you head up the Valle de Vió along 5km of road, then take a side turning up to Nerín (1270m), a small medieval-like hamlet perched on the hillside with a view east to the Peña Montañesa. Accommodation is available at the Añisclo Albergue (Tel 974 489 010), Pension El Turista (Tel 974 489 016) or the Hotel Palazio (Tel 974 489 002). Leave Nerín by a track/dirt road leading northwest into remote, open and shadeless country. Take plenty of water with you. The way cuts along the southwest flank of Mondicieta and continues to the upper slopes of the Sierra de las Cutas. Along here a grass track diverts to the right to the Brecha de Arazas with spectacular views into the Ordesa Canyon and across to Monte Perdido. The dusty dirt track pushes on to the Cuello de Diazas, beyond which you break away on a clear path climbing a grass slope ahead. When it forks take the right branch which leads to the lip of the canyon. The path then descends (at first it seems impossible that it could) all the way to the bed of the valley, which it reaches near the Puente de Cazadores: a very steep and kneecrunching descent.

The NE Face of Monte Perdido

ROUTE 121

Refugio de Góriz (2170m) – Monte Perdido (3355m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Refugio de Góriz (2170m) 3.5km 1185m F (voie normale ) 3½–4hrs Ice axe useful

Since thunderstorms are common in summertime, make an early start and descend quickly should the weather change.

MONTE PERDIDO (3355M), ROUTES 121 AND 122 Third-highest mountain in the Pyrenees, Monte Perdido (Mont Perdu to the French) is the ‘lost mountain’; a great limestone hulk that towers over the head of the Ordesa Canyon. From this view Perdido appears singularly unimpressive, but its Northeast Face above the Valle de Pineta is a very different story. From the Balcon de Pineta the huge mass is seen to best advantage: glacial tiers undercut by banks of gleaming seracs and ribs of seamed rock leading to a hint of the distant summit. An ascent from the north seldom betrays the promise this scene suggests. Ramond de Carbonnières first caught sight of Perdido during his explorations of 1787. Ten years later he led two attempts to climb it by way of the Vallée d’Estaubé and the Brèche de Tuquerouye. Both attempts failed. When he returned again in 1802 he sent ahead two local men, Laurens and Rondau, to reconnoitre a route. With the help of a Spanish shepherd they reached the summit itself, and returned a few days later to guide Ramond on his ascent.

On leaving the refugio climb north, on the east side of the Barranco de Góriz, on a route that is abundantly cairned and with traces of path ascending grassy terraces and rock bands. As you gain height there may well be patches of snow early in the season, but without difficulty you should reach a small tarn, Lago Helado (3000m), after about 2hrs. This lies below the Cuello del Cilindro, with the steep wall of the 3328m Cilindro de Marboré rising on your left. From here Monte Perdido assumes a very different appearance and at last admits superiority over its neighbours. Turn right (southeast) away from the tarn and tackle the steep slope (often snow-covered) towards a broad open gully which climbs under the obvious summit. In times of minimal snow-cover a more apparent route is a path going well to the right of the tarn. The gully steepens towards the top and emerges onto a broad saddle with a steep snow ridge (sometimes barred by easy boulders) climbing to the right. Climb this snow ridge to gain the summit, which is adorned by a large cross.

Views are immense and varied. Immediately to the southeast the crags of Sum de Ramond fall to the depths of the beautiful Valle de Pineta, while far off can be seen the Posets massif. Añisclo’s canyon carves away to the south, and the upper reaches of Ordesa are clearly visible below to the southwest. The limestone wastes that lie between Ordesa and the frontier peaks appear depressingly unattractive, yet French mountains (particularly the distant Vignemale) are very fine. Note For a much longer – but more inspiring – ascent see Route 122 from the Valle de Pineta.

ROUTE 122

Valle de Pineta (1300m) – Monte Perdido (3355m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Valle de Pineta (1300m) 8km 2055m PD (via the Northeast Face) 7hrs Ice axe, crampons, rope advised

This long expedition (allow 5hrs to descend by the same route) gives a challenging but very rewarding day out. Note An overnight camp or bivvy on the Balcon de Pineta gives the option of a 2-day ascent. Alternatively you could make use of the unmanned Refuge de Tuquerouye in the frontier ridge above Lago Helado.

VALLE DE PINETA, ROUTES 122 AND 123 Draining southeast from Monte Perdido, this lovely U-shaped valley is easily accessible by road, but although its upper reaches are only separated from the headwaters of the Ordesa Canyon by the bulk of Monte Perdido it’s a very long way from one to the other by motor vehicle. The Valle de Pineta has a number of idyllic aspects: the dappled trees beside the river, parkland-like meadows, waterfalls that cascade from many different directions, abrupt limestone walls, the wild but majestic view from the Balcon de Pineta, and the charming tributary glen of La Larri.

Bergschrund at the foot of Monte Perdido’s NE Face

From the unsurfaced parking area (Parking Pineta) on the west bank of the river opposite the Parador follow a stony jeep track upvalley, and in 30– 40mins cross a bridge overlooking cascades. A few metres beyond this take a signed path on the left. Rising on the right-hand side of the cascades soon enter woodland, and on emerging from the trees you gain a splendid view of the Cascada del Cinca bounding down the valley’s headwall. In 1hr come to a trail junction and continue straight ahead. The way becomes steeper as you twist up to the headwall, then flank to the right before resuming in steep zigzags to gain a grassy shelf above the headwall’s lower tier of rocks. Above this shelf the path ascends with ever-tighter zigzags, and the final 600m climb to the Balcon de Pineta takes you between rocky spurs, then via a ledge slanting left to arrive on the wonderful viewpoint of the Balcon hanging valley at 2520m. Despite its dramatic location, the Balcon de Pineta is an area of desolation with the debris of Perdido’s former glaciers strewn in a wilderness of limestone boulders and ancient moraines. But there are numerous tiny flowers growing among the rocks and screes, and the view of Perdido’s Northeast Face impresses with its ice barriers and snowfields. Follow cairns northwest towards the head of the hanging valley and the frontier ridge. When you draw close to the stream flowing from unseen Lago Helado below the Brèche de Tuquerouye, turn to face Perdido and study the line of cliffs which support its lower glacier. At the right extremity of the glacial seracs you will see the line of a left-sloping gully at almost the narrowest point of the cliffs. Cross the snow slope and climb this narrow gully with ease, then up steep snow to the next band of cliffs where a second gully (almost a chimney) is climbed, also without difficulty. The only problem could be when emerging from this if the snow and ice are out of condition. Above this the snowfield rises towards the saddle of Cuello del Cilindro, which is finally reached across a large patch of scree. Descend from the col heading southwest over scree, then slabs with scree ledges, towards the tarn of Lago Helado (not to be confused with the other Lago Helado on the Balcon de Pineta). At the first opportunity leave rocks for snow, losing as little height as possible, and head left towards slopes leading to the obvious summit of the mountain, and there join the route from the Goríz refugio (Route 121 ). OTHER ROUTES ON MONTE PERDIDO

As well as the two routes described in this guide, several other lines exist on this, the third-highest mountain in the Pyrenees. Among them the original North Face route which dates from 1888, and was claimed by Roger de Monts with his guides, Célestin Passet and F.B. Salles. As a winter climb it’s graded AD, with sections of 50–55°, while the Esparrets Couloir goes at AD- and is

also a winter speciality.

ROUTE 123

Valle de Pineta (1300m) – Llanos de La Larri (1600m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Valle de Pineta (1300m) 4km 300m 2 1½hrs

This easy but enjoyable walk visits a remote pastureland in a hanging valley headed by frontier mountains that also form part of the Cirque de Troumouse, with cracking views across the Circo de Pineta to Monte Perdido and Cilindro, and of the great south wall of the Valle de Pineta.

Llanos de La Larri, a tributary of the Valle de Pineta

From the parking area on the west side of the river near the head of the valley (Parking Pineta), take the stony track at the northwest end where a sign indicates the route to Llanos de Larri and Cascada del Cinca. This track takes you through groups of trees and swings round the head of the valley. Gently rising you have an early view to the east where the Rio Lalarri crashes down the hillside in a series of waterfalls. Cross a bridge beside cascades (30– 40mins) and continue along the track for a further 25mins or so to reach the Lalarri waterfall. Note Just before this is reached there is a path on the right which makes a direct descent to the valley and is worth taking on the way down.

Remain with the track as it loops easily up the hillside (there is a waymarked path which short-cuts these loops, but it’s a steep one better saved for the descent). Eventually, about 1½hrs after setting out, the track brings you to the entrance of the Llanos (pastures) of La Larri which stretch ahead to the Circo de La Larri. To the right of the track stands a small cabane used by a local shepherd. The hillside above it is starred with gentians in spring, and makes a splendid vantage point from which to study the Circo de Pineta, Monte Perdido and the La Larri glen. Note There are various possible extensions to this walk. If you wander through the pastures towards the headwall, in about 30mins you will come to a fine cascade. This makes a good site for a picnic. A continuing route climbs the headwall to reach the two Lagos de la Munia; another works its way to the Cuello de la Puertas (2575m). One possibility would be to follow GR11 southeastward for exceptional views on the way to Collado de Pietramula (the Collado is another 2hrs or so from the Llanos); yet another option is to take a path northwest from the entrance to the pastures. This takes you into the Circo de Pineta below the Cascada del Cinca.

17 THE POSETS MASSIF The Posets massif covers an extensive region of high ridges and remote, stony hollows; of tiny snowfields, sparkling lakes and sharp jutting aiguilles, all under the protection of the Parque Natural Posets-Maladeta. Like a massive granite and schistose fortress cut by crumbling gullies, its individual peaks rise from exquisite pinewoods; a great upland whose moating valleys are among the most attractive in the Spanish Pyrenees. To the north, under the frontier ridge, runs the Valle de Estós; to the west that of the Cinqueta de Añes Cruces; while the important Ésera valley marks the massif’s eastern limit. In its heartland dozens of tarns and marshy meadows add a dimension of serenity to a tranquil mountain wilderness, and a handful of staffed refugios encourage a concentrated exploration. There’s much to discover. The massif’s culminating point is Pico de Posets, at 3375m the second-highest summit in the range. Southwest of this rise the Picos de Eriste, while above the charming Batisielles glen which drains into the Estós the Agujas de Perramo appear tantalising to rock climbers. Throughout the massif there are so many possibilities for climbing and scrambling of an exploratory nature that a party concentrating on this region would find plenty to reward their dedication. Walkers have valleys and hidden glens to explore, passes to cross, and the opportunity to make a very fine 3- or 4-day circuit of the massif, while botanists will be well pleased with an impressive local flora. On 6 August 1856 Pico de Posets (Pico Llardana) received its first ascent from the little-known pioneer H. Halkett, with the guides Redonnet and Barrau. Redonnet, incidentally, was also a member of the party that made the first ascent of Aneto 14 years earlier, while Pierre Barrau was one of a distinguished family of guides active in the Pyrenees during the middle years of the 19th century, especially in the Posets and Maladeta regions. A decade later saw the emergence of Packe and Russell, who created several new routes in the massif, often with Firmin Barrau. The ‘majestic desert of huge boulders, eternal snow, and frozen ponds’ was among Packe’s favourite regions, and he spent many days and nights enjoying it in solitude. ACCESS AND INFORMATION Location

East of the Rio Cinca and west of the Ésera. All approach routes from the west are long: 24km by road and track from Salinas in the valley of the Cinca as far as Viadós, via Plan in the Valle de Gistaín (Chistau). An eastern Access approach is by way of the Ésera Valley; on foot through either the Estós or Eriste valleys. Eriste and Benasque may be reached by bus from Huesca via Barbastro. Maps Editorial Alpina ‘Posets’ and ‘Bachimala’ both at 1:25,000 Bases Benasque (1138m), Eriste (1118m) Asociacon Turistica Valle de Benasque (974 552 880 www.benasque.com); Oficina del Information Parque Posets-Maladeta, Centro de Visitante, Benasque (974 552 066)

Bases

Frontier peaks that wall the Valle de Estós are seen across the Ibóne d’Escarpinosa (Route 129)

BENASQUE (1138m) is the northernmost village in the long Valle del Ésera. An historic place with a medieval heart of cobbled streets and alleys running between stone-built houses – some of which were once used by the nobility of Aragon – it has become the major resort town of the Spanish Pyrenees with a number of hotels, apartment blocks, supermarkets, bars and restaurants. Among the shops several stock mountaineering equipment, butane gas cartridges, guidebooks and an impressive range of maps. Benasque also boasts a Visitor Centre for the Parque Natural Posets-Maladeta, a tourist office, banks (with ATMs) and a post office. There are several official campsites nearby. ERISTE (1118m) lies about 3km downvalley from Benasque. Smaller than its neighbour and with less immediate appeal, it’s overlooked by an ugly electricity works, while the Ésera has been dammed on the outskirts of the village to create a small lake. There is, however, a fine valley behind the village that leads into the heart of the massif. Eriste offers accommodation with three 1-star hotels.

Refugios REFUGIO ÁNGEL ORÚS (2100m) belongs to the FAM, has 98 places, is staffed throughout the year (Tel 974 344 044 www.refugioangelorus.com ), and is located in a fine position on the western hillside above the Valle de Eriste, about 3½hrs walk from Eriste. It is also possible to drive as far as the

Puente de Espiantosa, from where the hut is reached in about 1½hrs. REFUGIO CLOT DE CHIL (2000m) is also accessible from Eriste, but is found in the Valle de Chil, an eastern tributary of the Valle de Eriste. A small, unguarded hut, it can sleep 16, and is reached in about 1hr from Puente de Espiantosa. REFUGIO DE VIADÓS (1810m) has a scenic location high in the valley of the Cinqueta de Añes Cruces. Privately owned, it has 70 places and is staffed at Easter, and from July to late September when meals are provided (Tel 974 506 082 or Tel 974 341 613). An outbuilding can sleep eight when the main refugio is closed. Viadós (Biadós) is a charming hamlet of small summer-only farm buildings (granges ) with a magnificent view of the vast western face of the Posets massif. A rough track leads to Viadós from Plan, which has road access from Salinas in the valley of the Cinca. A classic walk over Puerto de Gistain links the refugio with the Estós hut. REFUGIO DE ESTÓS (1890m) is a large, three-storey building with 115 places. Owned by the FAM it’s manned throughout the year with a full meals service. There’s also a well-equipped kitchen for self-caterers. The hut stands on a bluff above the north bank of the Rio de Estós, about 3hrs walk from the entrance to the Valle de Estós, 3.5km from Benasque (Tel 974 344 515 www.refugiodeestos.com ).

ROUTE 124

Eriste (1118m) – Refugio Ángel Orús (2100m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Eriste (1118m) 7km 982m 2 3½hrs

As mentioned above, it’s possible to drive on a combination of road and track from Eriste to the Puente de Espiantosa, thereby reducing the length of the walk to about 1½hrs. This road is joined a little upvalley of the village, where it winds above the true left bank of the Eriste stream.

The alternative, footpath walk climbs out of Eriste above its church and heads into a ravine on the west bank. In about 1hr cross to the east bank at the humpback Puente de Tramarrius, go onto the track and continue upvalley until you reach the roadhead at Puente de Espiantosa. Off to the left there’s a fine waterfall. Cross the concrete bridge to the west bank again and follow a clear path among trees and shrubs parallel to the stream at first, then break away left at Pleta de los Riberes near a simple domed shepherd’s hut, where the path climbs steeply to Refugio Ángel Orús. The hut has a splendid wild outlook, an enticing landscape to explore. OUTINGS FROM REFUGIO ÁNGEL ORÚS

The tarn-dashed Ball (or Valle) des Ibóns north of the refugio , and lying below the Cresta de Batisielles, is worth visiting. It’s possible to continue from there across the ridge into the Valle d’Estós. A GR11 variante makes this crossing by way of the 2702m Collada de la Plana, with a descent through the Batisielles glen. By this route Refugio de Estós can be reached in 5hrs from Ángel Orús. For an outline of the route to Pico de Posets from the Ángel Orús refugio , see the box below: Other Routes on Pico de Posets.

ROUTE 125

Eriste (1118m) – Refugio Clot de Chil (2000m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Eriste (1118m) 6km 882m 2 3hrs

Refugio Clot de Chil is a good base for climbs on the Tucas d’Ixeia, Agulla del Xinebro and assorted peaklets guarding the Valle de Perramo to the north.

Follow directions for Refugio Ángel Orús (Route 124 ) as far as Puente de Espiantosa (2hrs), where a signpost directs the path to Clot de Chil. This climbs steeply a little north of east for about another 1hr, at first among trees, to gain the small unguarded and rather run-down refugio .

ROUTE 126

Benasque (1138m) – Refugio de Estós (1890m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Benasque (1138m) 12km 752m 2 4hrs

About 3.5km upvalley from Benasque the Rio de Estós emerges from a rocky defile that effectively obscures even the vaguest of hints of the wonderland that lies beyond it. This defile is, in fact, the eastern gateway to the Posets region. The way into the Valle d’Estós is signed through the Aneto campsite, from where the refugio is conveniently reached by a 3-3½hr walk.

The delightful Estós valley forms the eastern limit of the Posets Massif

Leaving Benasque walk upvalley along the tarmac road, which crosses to the north side of the Ésera at Puente Nuevo de San Chaime. Just beyond the bridge a minor road breaks to the left and winds a short way up towards the Estós defile. Follow the continuing track (used by GR11) through the gorge. Soon after cross to the west bank of the stream and wander into the valley proper. The way leads easily upstream, sometimes among trees, often over open pastures, and eventually arrives at the Cabane de Turmo beside the Rio de Estós at 1730m. There are two ways from here to the hut: Either cross the bridge, bear left and follow the stream northwestward all the way to the hut, or Follow the GR11 which continues from the cabane along the true right bank of the stream (south bank) a short distance, then crosses to the opposite bank to join the alternative trail. Both routes are easy to follow. Refugio de Estós stands on a bluff on the

north bank.

Forming a partial moat around the northern side of the Posets massif, the Valle de Estós is one of the finest in the Spanish Pyrenees

ROUTE 127

Refugio de Estós (1890m) – Pico de Posets (3375m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Refugio de Estós (1890m) 6km 1485m PD (voie normale via the Coma de la Paúl) 5½–6hrs Rope, ice axe, crampons useful; safety helmet advised

Although not unduly difficult this route, pioneered by Packe, Russell and Firmin Barrau in 1873, involves the ascent of a gully in which there’s much loose rock; climbers be aware.

PICO DE POSETS (3375M), ROUTES 127 AND 128 By reputation the summit of Posets (or Pico de Llardana) has the finest view in all the Pyrenees by virtue of its great height and central position. The big sprawling mass of the Maladeta certainly looks very fine to the east, while numerous peaks jostling for superiority to the west are dominated by Monte Perdido, and beyond (but more to the north) the Vignemale. Immediately below lies a district of considerable charm well worth exploring.

On leaving the hut descend to the Estós stream, cross on a makeshift log bridge and follow a path heading upvalley. About 1km from the hut the path branches left to gain height angling across the hillside towards an obvious glen opening to the west. Curving below the twin peaks of Agulla de La Paúl and Pico Royo, you then enter the lower reaches of the glen known as Coma de La Paúl. Rise through the centre of this short valley to reach the saddle of Collado de La Paúl at its head. The steep little glacier that once led to the pass has almost completely disappeared; when Packe was here it extended right down the glen. Cross to the south side onto the shrinking Glacier de Posets, and bear right to reach the East Face of the mountain. This is climbed by way of an obvious chimney, or narrow gully and, as with many similar features of these mountains, is not so much difficult as threatened by stonefall. There are several possible gullies of ascent, all with the same danger. Beware of parties above you, and also of dislodging stones onto those below. The chimney opens onto the North Ridge. Turn left and scramble along the ridge to the summit.

ROUTE 128

Refugio de Estós (1890m) – Pico de Posets (3375m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Refugio de Estós (1890m) 6km 1485m AD- (by the Southeast Arête) 6hrs Rope, ice axe, crampons useful; safety helmet advised

The Southeast Arête is the short ridge facing the climber on emerging through the Collado de La Paúl. An interesting route, it offers a pleasing alternative to the standard East Face chimney ascent above. It also makes a viable descent route which, when taken following the voie normale , concludes an interesting traverse of the peak.

From Collado de La Paúl (Route 127 ) cross the glacier to find a steep and obvious gully of ascent which leads directly from the ice onto the ridge itself. Turn right at the top of the gully to climb a couple of initial pitches that require some delicate moves (two belay pegs in situ ). Above these the ridge holds no real problems, other than that caused by the loose rock typical of the mountain, and leads without incident to the summit.

Climber on the SE Arête of Pico de Posets OTHER ROUTES ON PICO DE POSETS

The Ollivier guide, long out of print, detailed more than 20 routes of ascent on Pico de Posets alone, which gives an idea of the tremendous possibilities that exist here. In addition there are plenty of other summits, faces and aiguilles (agujas or agullas ) within the massif that would keep an active climber or scrambler happy for a couple of weeks or more. There are also some interesting wild-country traverses that could be created by experienced mountain walkers. Perhaps the most popular route these days is that which begins at Refugio Ángel Orús, and ascends the mountain in 4½hrs (Grade F) via the Canal Fonda, the short valley between Diente de Llardana and Tuca Alta. At its head you come onto the Esapalda de Posets (the south arête of Posets) and follow this to the summit. By this route you avoid much of the loose rock for which Routes 127 and 128 have gained an unwelcome reputation. On the West Face the 350m Couloir Jean Arlaud is a classic dating from 1927 when the Llardana glacier was more extensive than it is today. The route is now graded AD, with an average angle of 50°, but with two short steps of 60°. It’s a recommended winter climb starting from Viadós.

ROUTE 129

Puente Nuevo de San Chaime (1220m) – Ibónes d’Escarpinosa (2042m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Puente Nuevo de San Chaime (1220m) 7km 822m 2–3 3–3½hrs

As an example of the delights to be won by exploring the Valle d’Estós and its tributaries, this particular walk is a real gem. Concentrating on the Perramó glen (Ball de Perramó) – which cuts into the valley’s southwest flank midway between its confluence with the Ésera and Refugio de Estós – the walk climbs steeply through woodland to gain an enchanting upland of lakes, streams and waterfalls surrounded by the dramatic Agullas de Perramó, Xinebro and Ixeia.

Ibónet de Batisielles, passed on the way to the Escarpinosa lakes

From the Puente Nuevo de San Chaime – which takes the road north of Benasque across the Rio Ésera – continue upvalley a short distance, then cut left on a minor service road which rises above Camping Chuise, passes a fenced parking area, and is then blocked. Follow the continuing track through the gorge which acts as the entrance to the Valle d’Estós, then cross to the

west bank of the Rio de Estós. After about 45–50mins pass the Cabana de Santa Ana (1540m), with a lovely view of Pico Perdiguero (Pic de Perdiguère) on the frontier ridge, and its rocky Cresta Gargallosa. About 15mins later break away from the track on a path heading left, signed to the Ibónes de Batisielles and Escarpinosa. Climbing the steep wooded slope, after gaining about 150m the path contours to cross a bridge over the Aigueta de Batisielles, and shortly after resumes its zigzag ascent, emerging at last to the green, reedy little tarn of Ibónet de Batisielles, set in a boggy meadow after 2½hrs. Nearby a crude shelter of low stone walls and a partial roof stands at a junction of paths. Take the path running alongside the Batisielles tarn. It continues across a couple of meadows, the second of which is rather marshy, but beyond this the way twists uphill among pine and alpenrose, to pass above some cascades. Above the pine bluff cross a rustic bridge below more cascades. The path then climbs on, and led by cairns ascends a rocky step beside yet more cascades to emerge by the first of the Escarpinosa lakes. Ahead soar the Agullas de Perramo, with the Tucas d’Ixeia seen to the left, while the lake is bordered by stands of pine, grassy projections and tiny meadows cut by streams. A second tarn, Ibón Verde, is reached by a short walk from the first. Although it’s not possible to make a complete circuit of it, the rib of pine, rock and alpenrose that divides the two can be crossed in order to make a recommended circuit of Ibón d’Escarpinosa. From the dividing rib you gain some tremendous views across the Estós valley. Allow about 2hrs for the return to Puente Nuevo.

ROUTE 130

Refugio de Estós (1890m) – Puerto de Gistain (2577m) – Refugio de Viadós (1810m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refugio de Estós (1890m) 11km 687m 767m 2–3 4–4½hrs

This linking route between huts is a classic crossing, adopted by GR11 to make a very fine walk. Under normal summer conditions it’s not overly demanding, and you may be tempted to make a short diversion from the pass to a minor summit with long views.

Heading west, descend from the Estós hut to stream level and continue along the path that remains on the north bank, steadily gaining height towards the obvious saddle of Puerto de Gistain (Puerto de Chistau). The path is easy, and when it fades across grassland cairns take over. A short way beyond the Barranco de Clarabide tributary cross to the south side of the Estós. The final ascent to the pass is over rock and scree, and from there (2hrs from the refugio ) views back to the east show the great lump of the Maladeta dominating the horizon. Given time, energy and inclination, it could be worth wandering up the steepish slopes to the north in order to gain an insignificant 2794m summit from which Monte Perdido and Pic du Marboré can be seen to the west, while a rare view south shows the Posets massif. Allow about 45mins in all for this diversion. Puerto de Gistain is a modest scoop of rock and grass, and from it the descent to the valley of the Cinqueta de Añes Cruces is again led by cairns, veering a little left of the drainage stream. The path is clearer lower down towards an open bowl of grassland where the Barranco de Gistain feeds into the Añes Cruces. Cross to the right bank of the Añes Cruces here, then bear left and follow the downward trail all the way to Viadós. It’s a lovely walk as you pass below the great west flank of the Posets.

Puerto de Gistain is crossed on the trek between Refugio de Estós and Viadós

ROUTE 131

Refugio de Viadós (1810m) – Collado de Eriste (2860m) – Refugio Ángel Orús (2100m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refugio de Viadós (1810m) 9km 1050m 760m 3 5hrs

This hut-to-hut route is more demanding than Route 130 , for on the crossing of Collado de Eriste at the head of Valle de Millares (southeast of Viadós) the way is not always clearly defined, although it has been adopted as a GR11 variante. In good conditions there should be no route-finding difficulties, but in the early summer – especially after a hard winter – late-lying snow could cause problems. Note The crossing should be avoided if there’s any expectation of bad weather.

From the hut go down to the barns (or granges) of Viadós, then break away from the main valley path onto a trail that leads to a footbridge over the Añes Cruces stream. From its left bank the path now winds among pines, enters the Millares valley, and is led by red-white waymarks for the GR11 variante.

The Valle de Millares, near Viadós

The trail climbs in zigzags up the left-hand hillside, at first on slopes of scree and rock (cairns and paint flashes), then in and out of pines. On occasion rocks bear the words ‘Collado de Eriste’. Approaching the head of the valley towards a prominent rocky crown, the path veers right towards a stream on its way to the Ibón and Collado de Millares. At about 2300m a waymark directs you away from the lake path, climbing steeply now to the left of the rocky crown. Gaining height with the aid of cairns, paint flashes and, later, a twist of path, enter a small hanging valley littered with boulders. The way again divides. A large boulder bears a marker directing you half-left towards Collado de Eriste. Cairns lead through a stony wilderness to gain a false pass, beyond which you come to the real saddle of Collado de Eriste, about 3–3½hrs from Viadós. From the pass a ridge of jagged teeth forms one wall of a deep hanging valley, while far-off the snows of the Maladeta can be seen; below to the northeast lies the Ibón de Llardaneta. The way descends a steep slope of scree and grit, then near the foot of the slope veers left towards the lake, passing a small black tarn on the way. Pass round the left-hand (western) side of Ibón de Llardaneta (2680m) and at the far end go through a narrow gap which looks down onto a small gorge. Cross a stream issuing from the left and, keeping well to the right of the gorge, cross a rocky barrier to make a descending traverse of grass slopes where you locate a clear path heading downvalley, with a fine view of the Aguja del Forcau. Descending still, come to a stream where the path forks. Cross to the right bank and follow a line of cairns over a rough terrain of rocks, boulders and slabs to pass round the base of Aguja del Forcau; the valley a very long way below and the Ésera hinting far ahead. Cairns continue to lead down, steeply in places, and eventually bring you to Refugio Ángel Orús (about 1½hrs from the pass).

ROUTE 132

Tour of the Posets Massif

Start/Finish Grade Time Accommodation

Benasque 3 3–4 days Mountain huts

On this short tour mountain walkers have an opportunity to discover the many different faces of the massif without need to resort to climbing. That being said, the section which crosses the mountains from Viadós to Refugio Ángel Orus and on to Eriste should not be attempted by those inexperienced in wild-country travel unless accompanied by someone who is. Each stage is fairly short, thereby leaving plenty of time to explore the valleys through which you wander.

Day 1 This initial stage leads from Benasque to Refugio de Estós (see Route 126 ). Allow 4hrs. Day 2 Crossing Puerto de Gistain (2577m) the route goes from the Estós refugio on the northern side of the Posets to Viadós in the valley of the Cinqueta de Añes Cruces which flows down its western side; 4–4½hrs (see Route 130 ). Day 3 The hardest section of the tour crosses Collado de Eriste (2970m) to link Viadós with Refugio Ángel Orús for a 5hr day (see Route 131 for a full route description). Strong walkers could combine this stage with the following short section to Eriste and Benasque. Day 4 An easy, mostly downhill stage completes the circuit. Descend from the Ángel Orús refugio into the bed of Valle de Eriste on a clear path, to join the dirt track at Puente de Espiantosa. Walk down the track to Puente de Tramarrius where you leave it, cross the bridge and then take a footpath on the right bank of the valley stream draining down to Eriste in the Valle del Ésera. Cross the Ésera by a bridge just upstream of Eriste and walk into the village of Anciles, then on a minor road to Benasque (about 3hrs).

18 THE MALADETA MASSIF ‘All our attention was taken up by a very majestic summit,’ wrote Ramond de Carbonnières of his visit to the upper reaches of the Ésera in 1787 ‘…seen in all its grandeur, covered with eternal snows, surrounded with large bands of ice, and overtopping every thing. It is the Maladetta, a mountain reputed inaccessible.’ The Maladeta is, however, far from inaccessible, for its great bulk contains a variety of possible ascent routes on numerous peaks that form the heart of a diverse region of snowfields, streams, impressive cascades, glistening tarns, open meadows and glacial pavements. Its granite ridges top small but abrupt rock walls; its hanging valleys are like wild gardens extravagant with flowering plants; but every corner of the massif has its own attraction, as does the upper valley of the Ésera that separates it from the frontier ridge. In winter it draws cross-country skiers; in summer walkers, trekkers and climbers flock here, seduced by the Maladeta’s reputation and wealth of opportunities. This guide describes some of them. Facing the frontier ridge, the northeastern slopes of the massif are patched with four glacial remnants of the large bands of ice noted by Ramond over 200 years ago. Though their size is much diminished, the presence of these glaciers adds contrast to the rich vegetation of the lower slopes, and serve as ramps for climbers to approach the granite spine which forms the very backbone of the massif. This spine maintains an elevation of more than 3000m, culminating in Pico de Aneto, at 3404m the highest Pyrenean summit and a natural goal for many. The southwestern flank of the massif, walling the Vallhiverna (Ball de Ballibierna) is broken into a series of corries containing lakes, or smaller tarns, its topmost slopes adorned with tiny icefields.

A classic view of the Maladeta massif is to be had from the Port de Vénasque (Portillón de Benás)

Aneto was first climbed on 20 July 1842 by a Russian officer, Platon de Tchihatcheff, with the French count, Albert de Francqueville, and the guides Jean Argarot, Pierre Redonnet, Pierre Sanio and Bernard Ursule. Although their route was a rather complicated one via the southwest, Tchihatcheff made a second ascent four days later, this time across the Aneto glacier by the route now adopted as the voie normale . With no less than 36 summits of 3000m or more along the 7km crest, Aneto is not the only peak of interest. Pico de la Maladeta, for example, is in some ways more satisfactory than its loftier neighbour; Pico de Alba is one of the easiest; while a full traverse of the ridge – from Alba to the Coll de les Salenques – counts as one of the finest expeditions of its kind in the Pyrenees. On either side of the massif lie valleys of immense charm. The upper Ésera, with Valleta de la Escaleta extending its southeastern limits, is an enchanting place spoilt only by the intrusion of an unnecessary road. On the south side the Vallhiverna has also been invaded by road, but beyond that walkers and climbers will discover much of appeal. This road access to the massif comes from Benasque, but since the Parque Natural Posets-Maladeta was established in 1994, in the busiest weeks (June to mid-September) private vehicles are banned upvalley beyond the El Vado car park, about 1km below the Hospital de Benasque. A shuttle bus service operates during the closed period from both Benasque and El Vado, carrying passengers as far as the roadhead at La Besurta, where there’s a refreshment kiosk and toilet, 16km from Benasque. Despite the road and the large number of visitors the Parque Natural attracts in high summer, it’s still possible for climbers and walkers to enjoy corners of solitude in and around the Maladeta massif. Routes offered below merely scratch the surface of possibilities, and those with an eye for the country will seize every opportunity to explore further. ACCESS AND INFORMATION Central Pyrenees, east of the Posets massif and separated from it by the Valle del Ésera (Ball de Benás). By rail to Luchon (in France), then on foot via Hospice de France and the Port de Vénasque. Access By road via the Vielha Tunnel, Vilaller, Castejon-de-Sos and Benasque. Benasque is reached by bus from Huesca via Barbastro. Editorial Alpina ‘Maladeta-Aneto’ 1:25,000; Rando Editions Mapa Excursionista 23, ‘AnetoMaps Posets’ 1:50,000 Base Benasque (1138m) Benasque Turismo (974 552 880 www.benasque.com); Oficina del Parque Posets-Maladeta, Information Centro de Visitante, Benasque (974 552 066) Location

Base

BENASQUE (1138m) is the nearest centre. The most important resort township in the Spanish Pyrenees it has several hotels, apartment blocks, restaurants, bars, supermarkets, banks (with ATMs) and a post office. It has a tourist office and a Visitor Centre for the Parque Natural. Several shops stock mountaineering equipment, maps, guidebooks and butane gas cartridges, and a number of official campsites are dotted along the valley above the town.

Refugios REFUGIO DE LA RENCLUSA (2140m) is a large, barn-like building on the northern slopes of the Maladeta not far from the original stone shelter used by 19th-century pioneers. Owned by the CEC it can sleep 97 (20 in winter) and is staffed from the end of June to the end of September, during which time a full meals service is offered – reservations essential (Tel 974 344 646 www.fam.es ). A 40min walk from La Besurta leads to it. From the Hospice de France via Port de Vénasque allow 5hrs. REFUGIO DE CORONAS (1990m) is an unguarded shelter with room for about 20, and with an emergency telephone. Also known as the Refugio Vallibierna, it is situated on the south side of the Maladeta massif in the Vallhiverna below the Coronas tributary valley, a 4WD road leads directly to it.

Other accommodation BAÑOS DE BENASQUE (1680m) is an old-fashioned building with modern spa facilities and hotel accommodation, standing on the hillside above the left bank of the Ésera. Open from mid-June to September (Tel 974 344 000). HOTEL TURPI is a new hotel built in the valley bed below the Baños de Benasque on the boundary of the Parque Natural Posets-Maladeta. It has 17 rooms (singles and doubles), and a terraced campsite adjacent (Tel 974 344 002 www.turpi.net ). HOSPITAL DE BENASQUE (1750m) On the true left bank of the Ésera where the upper valley makes a pronounced bend, this former pilgrims’ hospice has been rebuilt and opened as a hotel-refuge (Llanos del Hospital) with 60 places at different grades of accommodation. Staffed throughout the year, with bar and restaurant (Tel 974 552 012 www.llanosdelhospital.com ); the road to La Besurta passes close by.

ROUTE 133

Hospital de Benasque (1750m) – Ibón de Gorgutes (2313m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Hospital de Benasque (1750m) 3km 563m 2 1½–2hrs

Ibón de Gorgutes is a medium-sized tarn nestling in a hollow under the frontier ridge by the Puerto de la Glera north of the Hospital de Benasque, and this approach walk is justifiably popular with day visitors to the valley.

Cross the bridge over the Ésera just below the Hospital and go up the hillside opposite to the roadhead where the path to Ibón de Gorgutes is signed. Twisting uphill guided by green waymarks, it crosses a stream and climbs among dwarf pine trees and alpine flowers. Though faint in places there are sufficient cairns and waymarks to keep you on route. About 20mins or so from the roadhead come onto a gently sloping hillside shelf with an aerial view onto the Ésera pastures and the Hospital de Benasque. Slanting across this shelf, now above the treeline, you gain a first view of the Maladeta’s summit and glacier, as well as the double-pronged Forcanada at the head of the valley. To the north rocky bluffs hide from view a section of the frontier ridge, and it is behind these bluffs that the Ibón de Gorgutes is concealed. After twisting uphill for a while the path then cuts straight up the left-hand side of a torrent which you eventually cross on stepping stones. At this crossing point an alternative path breaks left for the Puerto Viell, beyond which lies the Vallée du Lis in France – see

On the east side of the stream the way angles across grass slopes, then along a natural line below the band of rocks. This long eastward slant is eventually checked with a cut back to the northwest, rising above two small tarns. You then climb a minor ridge that rims the rock bands previously skirted, followed by edging round the left side of a rocky dome to find the Ibón de Gorgutes, with the saddle of Puerto de la Glera just above (20mins from here). Chapter 13 .

Allow 1–1½hrs for a return to the Hospital de Benasque.

ROUTE 134

Hospital de Benasque (1750m) – Forau dels Aigualluts (1990m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Hospital de Benasque (1750m) 6km 240m 1 2hrs

At the eastern end of the upper Ésera valley lies an open plain, the Plan dels Aigualluts, with splendid views of Pico de Aneto. Several streams flow into this plain, the most notable being that which drains the Aneto glacier. These streams unite at the northern end of the plain, then cascade into a large pit known as the Forau dels Aigualluts (or Trou de Toro) – see Norbert Casteret’s classic Ten Years Under the Earth . Here the waters disappear, but instead of reappearing downvalley they tunnel northeastward through the limestone Tuca Blanca de Pomero to reappear in the Vall de l’Artiga de Lin as the infant Garonne, one of the major rivers of southwest France.

Descend below the Hospital de Benasque to cross a bridge over the Rio Ésera and follow a waymarked path upvalley. Reaching a log footbridge recross to the right-hand side of the Ésera where the path rises up a grass slope between streams. In 10mins take the right branch where the path forks. The left branch goes to the Port de Vénasque/Portillón de Benás. Cross a pine-topped bluff, beyond which you edge two or three shallow marshy troughs to reach the Plan d’Estan, literally the ‘Plain of the Lake’. In the spring and early summer there may be a sizeable sheet of water here, but by midsummer this has invariably disappeared without trace.

In the upper Valle del Ésera this small lake in the Plan d’Estan has usually disappeared by midsummer

The path skirts the left-hand edge of the Plan d’Estan with lovely views up to the cockscomb Cresta de los Portillones which separates the Maladeta and Aneto glaciers. Now curve right to join the unmetalled road from the Hospital de Benasque and follow it a short distance upvalley to the parking area known as La Besurta (1915m), about 1hr 15mins from the start. Cross the stream to the end of the track where the Renclusa path rises as a partially paved trail and forks about 10mins later. Ignore the right branch (to the Renclusa: Route 135 ) and take the alternative path which rises gently for a few minutes, then more steeply with zigzags to gain a minor ridge. The ‘ridge’ serves as a ramp to gain a higher level of valley, and from it you then go down to another pastureland leading directly to the Forau dels Aigualluts. At the right-hand edge of the Plan dels Aigualluts stands a metal refuge (Cabaña dels Aigualluts ) with room for about eight – emergency use only.

ROUTE 135

Hospital de Benasque (1750m) – Refugio de la Renclusa (2140m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Hospital de Benasque (1750m) 5km 390m 1–2 2hrs

An easy route to the Renclusa, this approach explores the mid-valley pastures of the Upper Ésera before making the final ascent to the hut from the roadhead.

Follow Route 134 as far as the fork in the path 10mins beyond the Besurta roadhead. Take the right-hand option, which twists easily in loops to gain the rocky basin in which sits the Refugio de la Renclusa, base for numerous climbs on the Maladeta massif.

Viewed from Pico de la Maladeta, Aneto rises above its fast-shrinking glacier

ROUTE 136

Refugio de la Renclusa (2140m) – Pico de Aneto (3404m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Refugio de la Renclusa (2140m) 5km 1264m F+ (voie normale ) 5–5½hrs Rope, ice axe, crampons

This, the standard route to the summit of Aneto (Néthou to the French), crosses the rocky spine of Cresta de los Portillones to gain the Aneto glacier. Of no great width, this spine forms a watershed, for the stream which drains the Maladeta glacier on its western side flows through the Ésera to the Ebro basin, then eastward to the Mediterranean. On the eastern side, Aneto’s glacier is a major source of the Garonne, the great French river that waters the vineyards of Bordeaux on its journey to the Atlantic.

PICO DE ANETO (3404M), ROUTES 136 AND 137 As the highest mountain in the Pyrenees Aneto is understandably popular. The voie normale makes an interesting ascent and summit views are immense. But lacking any distinctive peaks they are not as spectacular as may be gained from some lesser mountains, yet the curving valleys with their glistening tarns look very fine, and there are plenty of barely-seen ridges and spires as a backdrop to set you dreaming.

Take the well-trodden path upvalley from the Renclusa for about 100m before climbing steeply southward to the crest of the Portillón ridge. Gaining the ridge at a significant saddle, Portillón Inferior (2742m), you have a first sighting of Aneto’s cone across the glacier. Bear right on the path that climbs just below the crest, rises over Pico del Portillón Superior and comes to the 2870m gap of Portillón Superior. Descend the eastern side, scrambling down a short gully which is often rimed with ice early in the season. From the foot of the gully a trail heads roughly southeast towards the Aneto glacier. The glacier is shrinking fast, but you eventually mount the ice and make your way towards the Collado de Coronas. If the glacier is snow-covered, safety precautions should be adopted (rope and ice axe are essential). Packe tells of a lake that used to lie below the Collado until in August 1857 it ‘burst through the ice and found an outlet’. In some years a similar lake still appears here. Above it a snow dome rises steeply towards the summit. At the top bear left to a 50m section of ridge known as the Puente de Mahoma (Pont

de Mahommet). This consists of great blocks of granite and presents no real difficulty unless coated with verglas, but it provides an airy crossing and a satisfactory way to complete the ascent. The summit, with large cross and statue of the Virgin, is just beyond it. Allow about 3½hrs to descend by the same route.

ROUTE 137

Refugio de Coronas (1990m) – Pico de Aneto (3404m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Refugio de Coronas (1990m) 6km 1414m F (via Valle and Collado de Coronas) 5–6hrs Rope, ice axe, crampons

Probably the easiest – and certainly the most direct – route from the Vallhiverna on the southern side of the massif. When taken in reverse (descent) after an ascent via Route 136 , it completes a rewarding traverse of the mountain, and is highly recommended. There’s a small but steep glacier to tackle just below Collado de Coronas, but the majority of the ascent is over a rough landscape of rocks, boulders and scree.

The summit ridge of Pico de Aneto (Routes 136, 137)

From the refugio walk upvalley a short distance along the track, until a path breaks away to the north on the east bank of the Barranco de Coronas. The way climbs through forest, crosses the stream and gains height in steep zigzags until eventually emerging from the woods to arrive at the little Ibonet de Coronas (2220m). Recross the stream just before the tarn and climb a very rough section of boulders. Cairns lead the way northeastward until a sloping gully demands a more northerly course. Above this another tarn is reached,

backed by the Cresta de Llosars. Pass round the west bank and bear left (northwest) to reach the largest of the Coronas tarns at 2725m. Now head to the right round the northern end of the tarns, and climb to the small Glacier de Coronas which plasters the upper slopes of the corrie. Keeping more to its eastern side, climb steeply to gain Collado de Coronas, seen as a dip between the rocky features of Aneto to the right, and Cresta del Medio to the left. Once through the col join Route 136 to the summit. OTHER ROUTES ON ANETO

There are many routes and variations, but two of the longest and finest are those that concentrate on the extensive ridge systems that continue either side of the summit. One involves a combination of the Cresta de Salenques and Cresta de Tempestades . Beginning at Coll de Salenques (2810m) the ridge is followed to Pico Margalida where the Tempestades crest is then joined. This is traced northwestward to the summit of Aneto (7hrs). The full route was first completed in 1934 by Ollivier and Wild, and is graded AD+ with pitches up to IV-. The other classic route combines an ascent of Pico de la Maladeta with the complete Cresta del Medio as far as Collado de Coronas, and continues on the ridge above that to Pico de Aneto. This is a PD+ route requiring 12–13hrs from the Renclusa and back.

ROUTE 138

Refugio de la Renclusa (2140m) – Pico de la Maladeta (3308m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Refugio de la Renclusa (2140m) 3.5km 1168m F (voie normale ) 4hrs Rope; ice axe and crampons may be useful

This is the normal route by which the Maladeta is climbed. Note In early summer the rock may well be glazed with ice in the gullies below the summit, and the upper ridge snow-covered. Extra caution will then be required.

PICO DE LA MALADETA (3308M), ROUTES 138 AND 139 Rising south of the Renclusa refugio , the Maladeta provides shorter routes than on Aneto, but with more spectacular summit views.

From the Renclusa follow Route 136 to the base of the gully below Portillón Superior. Turn right and head southwest towards Collado Maldito, seen at the angle formed by the ridge of Cresta del Medio and the jutting southern ridge of Maladeta. About halfway along the Maladeta’s southern ridge there are several gullies, short in length and of obvious qualities, which lead onto the ridge itself. Choose a gully to suit, climb it and cross to the western side. The granite is rough and delightfully firm. Turn right and wander along the ridge to the summit.

ROUTE 139

Refugio de la Renclusa (2140m) – Pico de la Maladeta (3308m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Refugio de la Renclusa (2140m) 3km 1168m PD+ (via Cresta de los Portillones) 4½hrs Rope

First climbed by Frederic Lung and the guides Castagne and Courrège in August 1911, this is a more interesting route than the voie normale described above. Some rock scrambling is involved (to grade II).

Follow Route 136 as far as Portillón Superior, cross beyond the gully and continue up the ridge which becomes broader above a 3m vertical slab (climbed with good holds), and reverts to an easy scramble. As the ridge dips to the level of the Maladeta glacier note a tight chimney that has to be climbed (grade II) to regain the ridge above another steep pitch. At the top of the chimney turn right and continue along the ridge on firm granite blocks to gain the summit.

Ibón de Cregüeña lies below Pico de la Maladeta OTHER CLIMBS IN THE MALADETA MASSIF

Pico de la Maladeta and summits along the Cresta de la Maladeta to the northwest hold a variety of routes. From Ibón de Cregüeña a steep little PD route of 2–2½hrs heads up to the Maladeta via its western flank; another from the lake climbs Pico le Bondidier (3146m) in about 1½hrs and is graded F. An extension of that climb takes in the summit of Pico Sayó (3211m) in just 30mins. Using the Renclusa as a base, both Diente de Alba (3120m) and the Pico Mir (3184m), linked by Collado de Alba, are easily gained by way of Ibón de la Renclusa and the tiny Alba glacier. Allow 3½–4hrs for the first, and an additional 30mins for the second.

ROUTE 140

Refugio de la Renclusa (2140m) – Pico de Alba (3107m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refugio de la Renclusa (2140m) 3.5km 967m F (voie normale ) 3½hrs

First climbed in July 1868 by Henry Russell and Jean Haurillon, this ascent offers no serious difficulties, but ventures over some interesting terrain.

PICO DE ALBA (3107M), ROUTE 140 Pico de Alba is the most westerly of the massif’s 3000m summits, which makes a good acclimatisation scramble for newcomers to the district.

Take the path from the refugio heading in a westerly direction, crossing the Barranco de la Renclusa on two footbridges, then go up to another stream, the Torrente d’Alba. Follow this upstream on its northern side to reach the little Ibón de la Renclusa (Lago de Paderna) at 2240m. Continue up to a wide shelf of rock, and on reaching the end of this descend to a chaotic region of boulders. Guided by cairns mount rough slopes heading southwest to the broad ridge of the Cresta de Tuca Blanca. Bear left and follow cairns heading due south towards Pico de Alba. From here Alba appears as a steep-walled peak, but as the edge of the little Alba glacier is reached, a cairn marks the base of a gully offering an easy ascent. Climb the gully on firm granite to gain the ridge north of the summit. Cross over and scramble along the rough western slopes below the ridge crest, led by more cairns, until the final slopes are mounted by a series of ledges and large granite blocks.

Ibón de Renclusa, en route to Pico de Alba (Route 140)

ROUTE 141

Refugio de la Renclusa (2140m) – Pico Forcanada (2872m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time Equipment

Refugio de la Renclusa (2140m) 8km 972m 240m PD (via Collado Alfred) 5–5½hrs Rope; safety helmet advised

First climbed by the young poet Alfred Tonnelle on 1 August 1858, Pico Forcanada offers an interesting scramble, although its rock is notoriously loose.

PICO FORCANADA (2872M), ROUTE 141 The Forcanada is a fine double-pronged peak standing above the Valleta de la Escaleta (Balleta de l’Escaleta) in the extreme southeastern corner of the upper Ésera.

From the refugio descend to the Ésera valley, bear right and walk up to the Forau dels Aigualluts and into the Plan dels Aigualluts beyond, then climb to the Escaleta glen. A path, then a line of cairns, leads deep into the glen, passes a string of tarns below Pico Forcanada (the Estanys de l’Escaleta), then climbs southwestward to find another tarn at 2632m. Beyond this turn towards the southeast over rough boulders to gain Coll d’Alfred (2844m; 4hrs), a dip in the ridge between Turo de Tres Puntes and Cap deth Hòro. This ridge carries the border of the Parque Natural, and affords splendid views of the Maladeta massif to the west, and of the Besiberri and Montardo peaks further east.

Cross through the col and descend left over a boulder tip, often with snow patches, then climb to a brèche seen south of the Forcanada’s south summit. From the cleft climb the ridge to this first summit (2875m), drop down into the gap between it and the main, north summit, which is then reached by way of an obvious gully.

Below Pico Forcanada, Coll d’Alfred presents a view of the Maladeta massif across a vast glacial pavement SELECTED CLIMBS FROM THE UPPER ÉSERA

Various minor peaks walling the Upper Ésera give interesting, if modest, ascents and – by virtue of their position in relation to the higher mountains – reward with excellent panoramic views. The following outline routes are merely a sample. South of Pico Forconada Cap deth Hòro (2969m) and Tuc de Molières (3010m) can be gained by little more than a long walk, yet both offer fabulous views over the southeastern flanks of the Maladeta massif and, across the Noguera Ribagorçana, to the Besiberri massif and a vast sea of peaks and hinted valleys. Approach to both summits is initially the same as that to Coll d’Alfred (Route 141). Good visibility is necessary because of an almost featureless region of glacial pavement. Allow about 4½hrs for Cap deth Hòro, 5hrs for Tuc de Molières from the Renclusa. Nearby Pic de les Salenques (2992m), west of Tuc de Molières, is also worth ascending. Approached through the Ball de Barrancs, then by way of a col on the ridge just below Pic de Barrancs, the summit is reached in 5hrs from the Renclusa, or 5½hrs via Valleta de la Escaleta. On the frontier crest Tuca de Salbaguardia (Pic de Sauvegarde, 2738m) west of the Portillón de Benás (Port de Vénasque), is a popular tourist’s excursion from the Hospice de France (see Chapter 13 ). Following the death of Archdeacon Hardwicke from a fall on the mountain in August 1859, a path was cut up the grassy flanks from the pass and a toll of 1 franc levied on all who used it. The path is still there; the tax man is not. The normal route climbs easily from just below the pass (Spanish side) and gains the summit in 45mins. An interesting route goes along the ridge itself directly from the pass – for experienced scramblers only.

East of the Portillón stands Pico de la Mina (Pic de la Mine, 2707m). Climbed much less frequently than its neighbour, it enjoys views every bit as interesting as those from Salbaguardia. The normal route climbs to the ridge just west of the summit and is quite strenuous. There are also broken gullies to attract scramblers (beware loose rock). The summit is broad, flat and featureless. Located in the northwest corner of the Upper Ésera Pico Sacroux (2676m) enjoys one of the finest views in all the Pyrenees. The southeast ridge offers a PD- route of about 4½hrs from the Renclusa. The ridge is gained at Puerto de la Glera (2367m), reached from the Hospital de Benasque (see Route 133 ). From the pass climb the ridge direct, turning one or two gendarmes on the right above the steep North Face. The summit is reached at the top of a broken, but broad final ridge. An alternative and easier route (F) heads straight up snow slopes of the hanging valley above Ibón de Gorgutes to reach a point just south of the summit. SELECTED CLIMBS FROM THE VALLHIVERNA

Less frequented than the Ésera, the Vallhiverna (Ball de Ballibierna) – which drains the southern flanks of the Maladeta massif – is nonetheless a charming glen and a favourite of both Packe and Russell in the 19th century. At its head several tarns lie in deep corries, some of which are visited by GR11. Rimmed by attractive peaks, the valley is lush with pines and extravagant alpine flowers. A shuttle bus service operates during the high summer between Benasque and the Vallhiverna roadhead near Refugio de Coronas (also known as Refugio Vallibierna, or Pescadores), from where several walks and climbs are possible. Forming its southeastern cornerstone the Tuca de Ballibierna (Picos de Vallhiverna, 3056m) offers a pleasant route via the 2728m Coll de Ballibierna. Charles Packe and Captain Barnes, with Firmin Barrau as guide, made the first ascent by this route in 1865. From the Coronas refugio the way leads into the valley-head cirque in which the Ibóns de Ballibierna are found, then strikes up to the col overlooking Valle de Anglos to the east. From the col an easy ridge is then followed southwestward to the summit (4–4½hrs). Views of the southern slopes of the Maladeta massif are particularly fine. West of the Tuca de Ballibierna, Tuca Arnau (2814m) and Tuqueta Blanca de Ballibierna (2790m) both offer easy ascents, while Pico de Llauset (2902m) to the south, and separated from it by Collado de Llauset, is another summit that could be claimed during the same outing – 30mins from the Collado. SELECTED WALKING TOURS FROM THE UPPER ÉSERA

A 6hr tour of the Valles (Balls) de Remuñe and Literola , two glens that

drain into the Ésera just west of the sharp eastward bend of the upper valley, makes a long walk through attractive countryside. Highlights are the tarns that nestle in the heart of the valleys, and the crossing of Portal de Remune (2831m) which links the two. (Editorial Alpina map ‘Posets’ at 1:25,000 will be needed for the Literola section of this walk.) Another 6hr tour that takes in several mountain tarns links the Valle (Ball) de Barrancs and Valleta (Balleta) de l’Escaleta at the extreme southeastern end of the Ésera’s valley. First go up the Valle de Barrancs from Plan dels Aigualluts, aiming towards Coll de les Salenques, then bear left (east) to cross the granite ridge close to Pic de Barrancs. From there descend to a broad glacier pavement and the tarns that lie beneath Pico Forcanada. By a combination of Còth des Aranesi (2446m) northwest of Pico Forcanada, and Pòrt dera Picada (Puerto de la Picada, 2470m) under the frontier ridge, a long and strenuous day’s tour can be made by linking the Upper Ésera, Valleta de la Escaleta, Vall de l’Artiga de Lin and Vall de Pomèro in one grand circuit. By use of the unguarded Refugio de la Artiga de Lin (20 places) this could be turned into an easy 2-day tour. MOVING ON: MALADETA TO THE NOGUERA RIBAGORÇANA

Walkers planning to visit the mountains east of the Maladeta massif may be tempted to follow the Haute Route on a tough but magnificent stage that crosses the 2935m Coret de Molières (Coll de Mulleres), and descends to the Refugi Sant Nicolau in the valley of the Noguera Ribagorçana.

ROUTE 142

Hospital de Benasque (1750m) – Refugi Sant Nicolau (1630m)

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time Maps

Hospital de Benasque (1750m) 15km 1185m 1305m 3 7½–8hrs Editorial Alpina ‘La Ribagorça’ 1:25,000 will also be needed

Note The Coret de Molières is the highest point on the Haute Route, and this should not be attempted if there is any chance of storm or poor visibility. The east side of the pass is extremely steep, and ice axe and crampons will no doubt be needed early in the season.

Begin by taking Route 134 to the Plan dels Aigualluts (2hrs), and wander across its left-hand edge to a stream flowing from the Escaleta glen in the southeast. Cross this stream and climb into the Valleta de l’Escaleta on a good zigzag path. Ahead the double-pronged Forcanada dominates the view. The path approaches a cascade, then rises above it. Shortly after cairns lead you up a rocky bluff, then left on a broad shelf above a minor gorge. Continue deeper into the valley to reach the first of several tarns. Pass this on the right, cross the stream which feeds it and follow the path up to another tarn. Go round this to the left and gain height alongside a stream draining a third tarn, the Ibón de Escaleta (2450m). Cross the outflow and mount southwestward up a rough landscape of boulders. Above to the south smooth glacial slabs form a low skyline, and you follow cairns to reach a granite plateau with a few streams and pools trapped in shallow dips. Now bear left and rise eastward towards Tuc de Molières. Follow the ridge a little north of its lowest point, the Coret (or Coll) de Molières (2935m; 5hrs) to find a small cairn. Cross the ridge here, taking great care down the steep eastern side. At the foot of the initial rocks bear left in a diagonal descent over rocky terrain, cairns leading away from a line of cliffs that plunge to the Estanhots de Molières. Continue to follow cairns down, sometimes steeply through minor gullies, now and then on poor grass, sometimes looping to the left to avoid more rock bands. Keep well away from the upper tarn, but come down to meet the outflow of the second, larger, lake,

keeping left to reach two more tarns. Note On a bluff above the left shore of the lower lakes stands an orangepainted metal shelter, Refugi de Molières (2360m), permanently open, unguarded and with space for about 12. Now skirt to the left to avoid yet more rock bands, then descend in zigzags to the valley floor. Bear left along the valley and descend a narrow path beside the stream which cascades to a lower level. Take the path along the left bank of the stream, crossing after a while to the right, and back again a few minutes later by stepping stones. The trail loses height, goes through trees and comes to a broad meadowland with the end of the Vielha road tunnel projecting ahead. Near its southern end is the Refugi Sant Nicolau (Refugi de Boca Sud, 1630m); staffed all year, 70 places, full meals service (Tel 973 697 052). Nearby there’s a second hut, Refugi Conangles (1555m) with 36 places, open from June to end-September, meals supplied (Tel 619 847 077 www.refugiconangles.com ).

19 AIGÜESTORTES WEST – THE BESIBERRI MASSIF The 140sq km of the Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici extend eastward from the valley of the Noguera Ribagorçana and include a series of landscapes of bewitching beauty. In a battleground of boulders, countless attractive tarns smile a benediction. High granite plateaux create a bewildering geography, giving birth to valley systems whose waters pour from one level to another in cascade after cascade. Cliffs rise smooth-faced from hidden tarns like misplaced fjords, while the big peaks seem to hold back as if reluctant to attract the climber. Packe had a taste of the area’s possibilities in 1867 when he made a brief exploration, during which he climbed one of the Besiberri peaks and found scope ‘for that spirit of discovery; which we can scarcely hope to evoke, among the higher, more difficult, but more trodden peaks of the Alps and the Pyrenees’. Russell too scrambled here, but his heart lay further to the west and it was left to men like Schrader and Gourdon to unravel its deeper mysteries. It’s a marvellous region for the hardened mountain walker, climber and scrambler, and any number of meandering tours could be dreamed up by those inspired by a sense of exploration, while those who enjoy a day’s scrambling on little-touched peaks will not go away disappointed. There are several manned huts that are usually very busy in the high summer (advanced booking recommended via Tel 973 641 681 www.lacentralderefugis.com ), but wild camping is officially prohibited except in the Parc’s peripheral zone, after first obtaining a permit from the nearest village. In practice if you choose your site with care – and leave no trace behind – you’re unlikely to be bothered by officialdom.

Peaks of the Serra de Tumaneia at the northeastern end of the Besiberri ridge system (Route 146)

The Aigüestortes (the ‘twisted waters’ after which the park is named) is a beautiful region of streams, marshy areas, pine glades and alpenrose lying deep within the Vall de Sant Nicolau. This charming valley ends among rocky cirques and a dazzle of lakes close to the park’s eastern sector (see Chapter 20 : Aigüestortes East – Encantados). The highest mountains form a containing wall of around 3000m along the park’s western rim between the Ribagorçana and Vall de Boí: Besiberri Nord, Besiberri Sud, Pic de Comoloforno, Pic d’Abellers and Pic de la Torreta. Besiberri Nord sends out ridges to the northwest and northeast, effectively creating a barrier to a wonderland of tarns that drain northward to the Val d’Aran. The longer of these two ridges, the northeasterly (known as the Serra de Tumeneia), includes such summits as Pa de Sucre, Tumeneia, Tuc de les Monges and Montardo d’Aran, this lastnamed being a major cornerstone and a superb viewpoint. East of the Besiberri wall rise the jagged summits of the Agulles de Travessani, a bristling cockscomb of a crest on a ridge dividing the headwaters of the Noguera de Tor from the Circ de Colomèrs, whose innumerable tarns and pools soak away north to the Val d’Aran and the Riu Garona (Garonne). Country east of the Circ de Colomèrs is described in Chapter 20 , which contains the original core of the Parc Nacional. ACCESS AND INFORMATION Location

East of the Noguera Ribagorçana and south of Val d’Aran. From the west, on foot from the Vielha Tunnel; from the north via Arties or Salardú; from

Access

the south by way of Caldes de Boí. Buses from El Pont de Suert go as far as Boí in Vall de Boí. Editorial Alpina ‘Val d’Aran’ 1:40,000: ‘La Ribagorça’ and ‘Vall de Boí’ both at 1:25,000.; IGN Maps Carte de Randonnées No 6 ‘Couserans-Cap d’Aran’ covers most of the region on one 1:50,000 sheet Bases Arties (1144m), Salardú (1268m), Boí (1282m) Information Casa del Parc National, Boí (973 696 189)

Bases ARTIES (1144m) provides access by way of Val d’Arties to country north and west of Montardo. Nestling below the main road through Val d’Aran, it has a few hotels, restaurants, a shop and a campsite just below the village, but it is really too far from our region to serve as a convenient base, other than for motorised visitors concentrating on the northern slopes. SALARDÚ (1268m) lies a little over 2km upvalley of Arties and, after Vielha, is the most important village in Val d’Aran. There’s plenty of accommodation in hotels, a 180-place youth hostel (Tel 973 645 271); the 300-year-old Refugi Rosta (open late June until late September, 50 places Tel 973 645 308); and the CEC’s Xalet Juli Soler i Santalo which has 105 places (open June to midSeptember Tel 973 645 016). Salardú has a few shops, restaurants, and a bank (with ATM). From the village narrow roads lead into the valleys of Aiguamotx and Riu de Ruda to give access to the Colomèrs and Saboredo regions respectively. BOÍ (1282m) is situated about 9km from the roadhead in the valley of Noguera de Tor (Vall de Boí) at the entrance to the tributary glen of St Martí. Noted for its 12th-century Romanesque shrine, it has a few hotels offering overnight accommodation, plus restaurants, supermarket, bank (with ATM) and a National Park office (Casa del Parc Nacional) in the main square. Caldes de Boí, further north on the way to the roadhead, is a spa with luxury hotel accommodation. Out of season private vehicles are permitted to drive as far as the dam, but during summer 4WD taxis from Boí ferry visitors to the Park’s control booth between the spa and the Cavallers dam. There’s also a useful 4WD taxi service from Boí to Aigüestortes in Vall de Sant Nicolau.

Refugis Note All bookings for refugis in the Park are managed via a central number: Tel 973 641 681 (www.lacentralderefugis.com ). REFUGI DE BESIBERRI (2221m) is a small unmanned bivouac hut with 9 places, perched on a rock slab below and to the west of Besiberri Nord (water supply nearby). It is reached by a walk of about 3hrs from the Conangles parking area south of the Vielha road tunnel in the valley of the Ribagorçana.

REFUGI D’ESTANY LLONG (1985m) is in the heart of the Parc Nacional on a GR11 variante linking Boí and Espot, and is situated among trees near the western end of Estany Llong. Fully staffed from mid-June to early October, it has 50 places (Tel 973 299 545). The refugi may be reached by 4WD taxi from Boí as far as the Aigüestortes information booth in the Vall de Sant Nicolau, followed by a 1hr walk. REFUGI VENTOSA I CALVELL (2220m) is reached by a walk of about 2hrs from the Cavallers dam at the roadhead above Caldes de Boí, and is located just to the north of Estany Negre. Owned by the CEC, this very popular hut has 70 places and is manned from June to September (Tel 973 297 090 www.refugiventosa.com ). REFUGI DE LA RESTANCA (2010m) has 80 places, and is manned from midJune to the end of September. Owned by the FEEC it stands close to the dam at Estany (or Lac dera) Restanca, and is reached in about 45mins from Pont de Rius in Val d’Arties, or 7–8hrs from Refugi Sant Nicolau along the HRP (Tel 608 036 559 www.restanca.com ). REFUGI DE COLOMÈRS (2135m) overlooks the dammed Estanh Major de Colomèrs, is owned by the FEEC, and has a guardian from mid-June to the end of September (Tel 973 253 008 www.refugicolomers.com ). The refugi has 60 places, and is reached from Refugi de la Restanca in 3½–4hrs, or from the Val d’Aran by way of a narrow road through the valley of the Riu Aiguamotx, followed by a walk of 1½hrs. REFUGI SANT NICOLAU (1630m) is located in the valley of the Noguera Ribagorçana just south of the Vielha road tunnel, and is used by HRP trekkers travelling east from the Maladeta region. Staffed throughout the year, with 70 places (Tel 973 697 052). REFUGI CONANGLES (1555m) is located south of the Vielha road tunnel on the east side of the upper Vall de Barravé (valley of the Ribagorçana). It has 36 places and a full meals service. Open from June to the end of September (Tel 619 847 077 www.refugiconangles.com )

Estany Llong lies near the head of the Vall de Sant Nicolau

ROUTE 143

Refugi Conangles (1555m) Estany Gran de Besiberri (c2000m) – Refugi de Besiberri (2221m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refugi Conangles (1555m) 6km 666m 2-3 6hrs

The Besiberri refuge is a small unmanned bivouac hut used by climbers tackling routes on the western flank of the eponymous massif that forms the headwall of the narrow but utterly charming Vall de Besiberri. Although facilities at the hut are minimal, its situation – and the views from it – make it a rewarding destination for a day out. But even if you are uninterested in visiting the hut, the unspoilt Estany Gran de Besiberri (an hour below the refugi) will be worth visiting.

Leaving Refugi Conangles, wander downvalley and in about 4mins you will come to an unmade parking area just east of the main road, where a stony track enters beechwoods, soon passing a picnic area. When it forks, branch left, and 1min later leave the track for a path on the left climbing steeply through the woods. Crossing and recrossing the track, after gaining about 100m the sound of a waterfall can be heard to your right – a viewpoint on the edge of a big drop shows a fine cascade. Continue up the path, still among trees, and come onto the track for the last time. Cross this and climb a little further. The way then becomes a broad stony trail leading to a concrete bridge at about 1760m. There are more fine cascades to the left. Over the bridge the way climbs on, more steeply now, until emerging onto a grassy promontory overlooking the Estany Gran de Besiberri, where a sign gives 45mins to the refuge. Descend to the south bank of the lake and boulder-hop your way to the eastern end where a large flat meadow is backed by the Besiberri massif. Looking back across the lake a lovely view shows outliers of the Maladeta range – a perfect site for a picnic. A narrow but clear footpath edges the meadowland (the hut can be seen from here), soon rising among trees and shrubs on the right-hand side of a stream. As you gain height, trees give way to rocks and alpine plants. The way grows steeper and forks at about 2090m. This is an insignificant junction – the ‘main’

path continues ahead with small marker posts (it approaches Besiberri Sud), while the alternative, which branches left and is the one to take for the hut, is directed by a line of cairns and almost immediately crosses the stream. At this point the hut can be seen perched on a rock slab above you. Wend your way across a rough grass slope, then more steeply to bypass slabs where you swing to the right and soon climb beneath the hut, twisting among rocks, before scrambling up a bare slab to gain the refuge. Refugi de Besiberri has 9 places on 3-tiered bunks. From the door there’s a fabulous outlook onto Estany Gran, while below to the south lies a much smaller lake dwarfed by the Besiberri cirque. A signed path above the hut offers a route to Besiberri Sud (3024m). Allow at least 2½hrs for the return to Refugi Conangles.

The grassy promontory from which you gain a first view onto the Estany Gran de Besiberri

ROUTE 144

Vall de Sant Nicolau (1383m) – Aigüestortes (1820m) – Refugi d’Estany Llong (1985m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Vall de Sant Nicolau (1383m) 11km 602m 2 3–3½hrs

This route travels almost the complete length of the lovely Vall de Sant Nicolau, from a small parking area located 1km inside the valley (about 3km north of Boí) on the edge of the park’s peripheral zone, to the refugi close to Estany Llong near its head. It’s a very fine walk, but for visitors without their own transport it may be advisable to take one of the 4WD taxis from Boí as far as the Planell d’Aigüestortes information booth (8km upvalley) and walk from there.

A footpath rises out of the car park by an information booth, and is flanked by pine and boxwood. After 30–35mins you come to a bridge and cross to the north bank of the Riu de Sant Nicolau, where the path crosses and recrosses the jeep road. After walking about 3km cross a stream and enter the Parc Nacional. A few moments later you reach the old pilgrimage chapel of the Ermita de Sant Nicolau which stands among a few farm buildings, and join a track which winds down to the jeep road by the Estany de la Llebreta (1½hrs). A few paces along the road take a path running parallel with it. This leads to the Cascada de Sant Esperit, climbs the slope beside it, and after briefly joining the road again goes ahead over granite slabs. The path now makes brief contact with the road several more times, and is clearly marked. After about 2–2½hrs you come to the Planell d’Aigüestortes information booth where the 4WD taxis terminate. From here to the refugi the way is mostly along a track, with occasional footpath short-cut options. It takes you past beautiful meadows, pinewoods, the Aigüestortes streams and boggy areas, the whole valley rich in alpine flowers. There are cascades spilling from mountains that wall the valley, and views into tributary glens. Then the track cuts through a glorious meadowland sliced with streams (log bridges for walkers), and winds up a wooded slope to reach the Refugi d’Estany Llong. Allow at least 2½hrs for a return to the valley car park.

ROUTE 145

Refugi d’Estany Llong (1985m) – Estany Redó (2114m) – Refugi d’Estany Llong

Start Distance Height gain Height loss Grade Time

Refugi d’Estany Llong (1985m) 4km 129m 129m 2 2–2½hrs

This reasonably short outing makes a circuit of a tarn which lies below the Serra de Crabes backed by cliffs and screes, and is just one of many possibilities from the refugi.

Walk along the stony track that extends beyond the refugi and continue along the south bank of Estany Llong. At the eastern end of the lake there’s a beautiful meadowland. When the path crosses a stream on a bridge, immediately turn left and follow marker posts round the right-hand (eastern) edge of the meadows, then up the slope ahead. The continuing path is the route to the Portarró d’Espot (see Route 146 ). The way then eases to the left on a rising traverse among pine trees, and enters a rocky hollow. Weave a route through the hollow, then up the far side to emerge at the Estany Redó. This is an attractive mountain tarn; its east, west, and south shores dotted with a few short pine trees, water draining down the cliffs on the north side, and splendid views of rocky peaks to the south and southwest. Although there’s no path as such around the lake, it’s possible to make a circuit of it. This does involve a little boulder-hopping in places, so caution is required. Having completed the circuit, take the same path used on the approach to descend into the meadowland, then cut across this to Estany Llong and return to the refugi along the south shoreline path.

ROUTE 146

Refugi d’Estany Llong (1985m) – Portarró d’Espot (2429m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refugi d’Estany Llong (1985m) 3.5km 444m 2 1½hrs

The Portarró d’Espot is a long-established pass that not only connects the villages of Espot and Boí but is the main link between the west and east sectors of the Parc Nacional. This walk from the refugi is short and undemanding, but by making a 15min diversion from the pass a very fine overview of the Sant Maurici region may be had from a well-sited mirador .

Follow Route 145 as far as the bridge over the stream east of Estany Llong. Instead of branching left (as per the route to Estany Redó) continue ahead, soon rising in loops up the hillside and gaining wider views on the way. Above the treeline the mule-path swings back and forth across the hillside with the obvious saddle of the pass on show between Pic del Portarró and the Agulla d’Portarró. In a little under 1½hrs come onto the rocky Portarró d’Espot, but instead of continuing across it turn right along a side path which leads directly to the Mirador de Sant Maurici, which gives a surprise view over the park’s eastern sector. Allow 1hr for a return to the refugi by the same path.

ROUTE 147

Estany de Cavallers (1780m) – Refugi Ventosa i Calvell (2220m)

Start Distance Height gain Grade Time

Estany de Cavallers (1780m) 4km 440m 2 2½hrs

This easy walk takes you into a captivating landscape of big mountains, waterfalls, rock-strewn meadows and lakes. Understandably Refugi Ventosa i Calvell is one of the busiest in the National Park and you’d be advised to book a place in advance should you plan to spend a night or two there.

A clear, well-trodden path leads along the eastern shore of the lake, and at its far end goes up boulder slopes into the pastures of the Planell de Riumalo. Keeping to the east bank of the stream for a short way the path then crosses to the west bank on a footbridge, continuing upvalley between streams before climbing in broad loops up a ramp of grey granite slabs. Cairns and worn patches of path wind onward through a rocky terrain, then above Estany Negre to arrive at the refugi set high above its eastern end, on the edge of some wonderful wild country.

Accessible from the Ventosa i Calvell refugi, the jagged teeth of the Agulles de Trevassani attract climbers WALKS AND CLIMBS FROM REFUGI VENTOSA I CALVELL

Used as a base for several days this refugi offers a variety of excursions for both walker and climber. A close study of the map will prove the point, for whichever direction you look there are tarns and ridges and beckoning peaks. From day trips to multi-day forays into the inner wilderness, prospects are enticing. The jagged Agulles de Travessani northeast of the hut offer assorted routes. Creu de Colomèrs (2900m) to the southeast makes a pleasing ascent of little more than 2½hrs by its voie normale . There’s the 3014m Punta Alta , the high peak of Pic de Comalesbienes off to the south (that could be linked in a circular outing) or, perhaps the finest of the area, the high, lonely ridge of Besiberri which dominates country to the west.

ROUTE 148

Refugi Ventosa i Calvell (2220m) – Besiberri Nord (3014m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Total Descent Grade Time Equipment

Refugi Ventosa i Calvell (2220m) 5km 1164m 370m PD (voie normale ) 5–5½hrs Rope; safety helmet advised

From well-watered pasturelands to a rocky summit, this ascent of Besiberri Nord entices the climber through a rugged landscape. It’s not unduly difficult, but the way is rough underfoot, while the summit rewards with a vast panorama full of temptations.

BESIBERRI NORD (3014M), ROUTE 148 The bold granite Besiberri massif is immensely attractive. Below its long north–south wall the slopes are rough and uncompromising. There’s little vegetation. Tiny streams weave among the huge boulders, and only the occasional lizard disturbs an aura of apparent lifelessness. For those of us who love the wilderness it’s a magical place.

Go down from the hut to the Riu Malo pastures above the northern end of the Cavallers lake. From the western side of the stream (true right bank) head into the mouth of an obvious narrow valley draining from the west, through which the Barranco de Malavesina emerges. Keep on the north side of the stream, following a trail which climbs into the gorge-like valley. Cairns guide the way. Beyond a junction with another stream draining from the southwest, a second gorge is entered. Continue to gain height to reach a small tarn, Estanyet de Malavesina at 2495m, from which you gain a view of Besiberri Nord. Pass round the right-hand side of the tarn, and go up a grassy gully (cairns) towards a gap in the ridge (the Bretxa de Peyta, 2765m). Above the gully scramble up a slope of rocks and scree, and just below the gap – site of a former bivvy hut – you bear left to skirt the lower ridge wall for about 100m, where you will find a broad crack that invites ascent. Climb this to a series of terraces and simple slabs that bring you onto the ridge at Point 2832m. Bear left and climb along the exposed ridge directly to the summit of Besiberri Nord.

Making his way to Besiberri Nord, a climber negotiates a patch of late-lying snow

Bear left below the bivouac hut to skirt the lower ridge wall, and about 100m beyond the refugi a broad crack invites ascent. Climb this to a series of terraces and simple slabs leading to the ridge at Point 2832m. Bear left and climb along the exposed ridge directly to the summit. Note An alternative, easier, way onto the ridge, is to go beyond the crack referred to, as far as the trace of a path below an obvious col. Climb up to this col and bear left to gain the summit. OTHER ROUTES ON THE BESIBERRI MASSIF

The long ridge that forms a backbone to the massif has several worthwhile summits. In addition to Besiberri Nord there’s Besiberri del Mig (3003m), Besiberri Sud (3017m) and Pic de Comoloforno (3030m). This last may be climbed in 4–5hrs by a PD route from Caldes de Boí via the Estanys Gémena below the west flank. There’s also a classic traverse of the ridge, starting from the Besiberri refugi and going south to link all the summits. First achieved by Jean Arlaud’s party in 1926, it requires a long day’s effort (AD-), and makes an exceptional winter route.

ROUTE 149

Tour of the Agulles de Travessani

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Total Descent Grade Time

Refugi Ventosa i Calvell 12km 914m 914m 3 7½–8hrs

A wonderful long day’s walk, this circuit of the Travessani peaks reveals a series of wild, untamed landscapes, among the finest to be found in all these mountains. Note It should only be attempted in settled weather, for there are remote sections where signs of a trail are few and far between, and where good visibility will be required for route-finding.

Leaving the hut follow a footpath heading north to reach Estany Travessani, a large and attractive lake below the Agulles. Note The first 3hr stage of the walk could be used as a link between Refugi Ventosa i Calvell and Refugi de Colomèrs. The path leads up grass slopes above the southeastern end of the lake, over rocky bluffs and on to a second tarn which you skirt well to the left, heading north. Cairns trace routes in assorted directions; remember that you are aiming for Port de Caldes, which lies to the northeast. Heading northeast now above and beyond the tarn, cairns and occasional stretches of trail take you over a succession of granite terraces, each one giving better and more extensive views than the last. Eventually the way swings eastward (well above Estany del Port de Caldes) near the head of the valley system, and brings you easily onto the saddle of Port de Caldes (2567m) where views overlook a land falling away to yet more tarns caught in an idyll of confusing ridges and grassy banks. The continuing path descends the left-hand (north) side of a hanging valley, passes well to the left of a small tarn, then more steeply to reach a stream flowing from the right. Follow this downvalley, first on its left bank, then on its right, all the way to the dammed Estanh Major de Colomèrs (3hrs). Note Refugi de Colomèrs has refreshments available when manned (mid-June to the end of September).

Follow a path to the southern end of the lake, cross a stream coming from the southwest, then break away to climb southward (cairns, then path) so to reach a fine tarn in a grassy bowl. The path goes round its western end, climbs

grass slopes, then among more rocky terrain to gain another tarn, Garguilhs de Naut. Go left round its northern edge to locate a clear mule path heading south. This leads to a number of other tarns and pools, sometimes near the linking stream, sometimes well to the left of it. Keep alert for cairns, for eventually you cross to the right-hand side of the stream and continue to climb southward until, a little over 1km short of the headwall of the valley, a shallow granite ‘gully’ comes down from the western mountains. Cairns lead along its southern shoulder towards the hint of a pass, which becomes more obvious as you gain height. The route then zigzags up a stony depression to gain Port de Colomèrs (2605m) from where you capture magnificent views west over a huge drop dominated by the Besiberri wall. A clear path takes you down the western side to a lovely high pastureland whose stream leads to a tarn which you pass on the right, then continue down from one step to another. The way is now led by an occasional cairn, by which you come to a small tarn above the larger Estany Negre. Go round the righthand side of this, then down to Estany Negre. At its eastern end a path leads up a slope to reach Refugi Ventosa i Calvell once more.

The view west from Port de Colomèrs is dominated by the Besiberri massif

ROUTE 150

Refugi Ventosa i Calvell (2220m) – Montardo d’Aran (2833m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refugi Ventosa i Calvell (2220m) 3.5km 613m F 2–2½hrs

The position of this mountain, standing on the northern edge of the region, makes it a tremendous vantage point from which to study not only the Besiberri district, but the Val d’Aran, frontier mountains, and the Maladeta massif too. The ascent is nowhere difficult, and the summit is reached by countless walkers each summer.

From the refugi head north to reach the Travessani lake, pass along its western shore and continue north to Estany de les Monges. A path takes you round its right-hand (eastern) side, and begins to climb towards the Coll de Crestada (the pass that leads to Refugi de la Restanca). Do not go as far as the col, however, but break away north at an unsigned path junction (cairns). The way now twists up the slope to gain a ridge where you veer left and continue on a fairly level path. Montardo rises ahead. At the foot of the peak the path forks – either route will do – and the final ascent climbs steeply to gain the surprisingly flat summit.

ROUTE 151

Refugi Ventosa i Calvell (2220m) – Coll de Crestada (2472m) – Refugi de la Restanca (2010m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Total Descent Grade Time

Refugi Ventosa i Calvell (2220m) 5.5km 252m 462m 3 3½hrs

This recommended hut-to-hut route takes you out of the National Park to the northwestern side of the region where there’s yet more lake-gemmed country to explore.

There are various ways of reaching Coll de Crestada (Port de Güellicrestada) from the Ventosa refugi, any one of which will reward with tarns, bluffs of grass-capped granite and beautiful views, but the route recommended here is described above as Route 150 on the way to ascend Montardo d’Aran. On reaching the unmarked junction just below the col, ignore the right branch (which climbs Montardo) and continue on the main path to gain the pass. Descend northwest (GR11 waymarks) over a chaos of rocks and boulders to Estany deth Cap deth Port (2241m). Walk along its right-hand shore and cross the small dam at its far end. The path then descends steeply alongside the lake’s outflow stream to reach the larger Lac dera Restanca, where the refugi is located near the dam.

ROUTE 152

Arties/Pònt deth Ressèc (1395m) – Refugi de la Restanca (2010m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Arties/Pònt deth Ressèc (1395m) 5km 615m 2 1½hrs

From the car park continue south then southwest along a track which leads to Pontet de Rius. Cross the bridge and take a signed path which climbs the steep wooded slope until the ugly dam is seen. The gradient eases then, and on reaching the dam you cross to its southeastern side to the refugi.

For visitors with their own transport this is the shortest approach to the Restanca hut. A sign in Arties, in the Val d’Aran, directs the way along a metalled lane through Val d’Arties. Parking is at Pònt deth Ressèc, where an information board shows the continuing route, used by one of the GR11 variantes.

ROUTE 153

Refugi Sant Nicolau (1630m) – Port de Rius (2320m) – Collado de Lac de Mar (2468m) – Refugi de la Restanca (2010m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Total Descent Grade Time

Refugi Sant Nicolau (1630m) 11km 838m 458m 3 7–7½hrs

This western approach is one of the great hut walks of the Pyrenees: a superb day’s journey across a wonderland of granite boulders and dazzling tarns. Although it’s a tough trek, in good weather few difficulties should arise. Note A bad-weather variation is also briefly described.

Out of the refugi follow a GR11 sign up a track rising eastward in the direction of Port de Rius, and soon come to a dirt road looping up the hillside into the Vall de Conangles. Follow the road as far as a bridge spanning the Barranco de Conangles. Immediately before the bridge turn off the track to the left and cross the stream flowing from Estany Redo (Lac Redon), hidden above to the north. Across this take a narrow path through woodland, maintaining an easterly course. Cross a small clearing, and soon after the path opens to rockpitted meadows with a pleasant grassy cirque ahead. The path zigzags up the slope to reach the Port de Rius about 2hrs from the refugi. The first of the day’s lakes lies ahead, but spare a moment to gaze back the way you have come. A fine panorama includes the long Molières valley, its high ridge and the snows of the Maladeta beyond that. Follow a clear and easy path along the northern shore of Lac de Rius. At its outflow bear right on a cairned trail, leaving an alternative path which heads into the valley spreading below to the east. Note This alternative path (GR11) goes along the right-hand side of the valley of Arties from the lake’s outflow, and offers a useful short cut to the Restanca refugi. Should the weather be threatening this is the path to take, shortening the walk by about 3hrs. A water source about 200m along this path is worth noting.

Collado de Lac de Mar is a wonderful vantage point from which to study a landscape dominated by rock and water

Our path curves south, working a way over a rock and grass hummock, passes a couple of pools and shortly after reaches the northern end of the lovely Lac Tòrt de Rius. Cairns continue to lead the way along the left-hand (eastern) side, clambering over white granite boulders and slabs that wall it. At the southeastern end of the lake pass another, much smaller tarn on your left, then go up an easy scoop of valley coming from the south. Having attained the upper level on a slight depression, follow cairns that lead left (east) to gain Collado de Lac de Mar (2468m; 4½hrs). Views are stunning in all directions. The descent to Lac de Mar is both dramatic and tiring. It goes down eastward on a tightly winding narrow path. Spongy turf at the foot of crags is very welcome, then you head to the right (southeast) to cross streams flowing into the lake, and continue along the eastern shoreline following cairns. The route rises over projecting cliffs and eventually reaches the northern end of the lake. Veer left to descend steeply on a zigzag path to reach a grassy bowl through which the lake’s outflow stream drains, having first been diverted through a conduit. Across this stream descend steeply on a path heading northeast to reach the dammed Lac dera Restanca. The refugi stands on its eastern shore. WALKS AND CLIMBS FROM REFUGI DE LA RESTANCA

With a wild landscape of granite peaks and tarns accessible from it, the Restanca refugi has much to commend it as a base for walkers and climbers. The following outline routes offer just a few suggestions.

Montardo d’Aran (2830m) has already been treated to an ascent route from the Ventosa i Calvell hut (Route 150 ), but is just as easily climbed from the Restanca. The route goes by way of Coll de Crestada, then north along an easily scrambled ridge to the summit. Allow about 2hrs for the ascent. A tough crossing of the Serra de Tumeneia (the northeast ridge extending from Besiberri Nord) is possible for experienced mountain trekkers and scramblers, by either a pass southwest of Tuc de les Monges, or another between el Pa de Sucre and Tumeneia. This crossing leads down to Refugi Ventosa i Calvell and could be used as part of a 2-day circuit. A West–East Traverse of the district, beginning at Restanca and ending at Refugi Colomèrs, forms part of the Pyrenean Haute Route, but could be extended into a 2-day circuit by heading south from the Colomèrs hut into the Circ de Colomèrs and following Route 149 across Port de Colomèrs to the Ventosa refugi. From there continue back to Refugi de la Restanca via Coll de Crestada. Perhaps the best of all circuits from Restanca, however, is that which goes southwest up to Lac de Mar , crosses Collado de Lac de Mar and descends to the fabulous Lac Tòrt de Rius . From its northern end reach the outflow of Lac de Rius , bear right and follow GR11 back to the Restanca refugi – a magnificent day’s tour.

ROUTE 154

Salardú/Banhs de Tredòs (1760m) – Refugi de Colomèrs (2135m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Salardú/Banhs de Tredòs (1760m) 6km 375m 2 1½hrs

Refugi de Colomèrs gives access to one of the finest collections of lakes in this part of the range, for the Circ de Colomèrs south of the refugi has literally dozens of lakes, tarns and smaller pools lying in its rocky basin. Until comparatively recent times it was possible to drive to within a 30min walk of the refugi. It is now necessary to leave private vehicles at a parking area near the Banhs de Tredòs spa and hotel located south of Salardú in the valley of the Riu d’Aiguamotx, a gem of a valley extravagant with wild flowers in spring and early summer.

The approach walk begins at the car park. While it would be possible to follow for much of the way the dirt track which continues beyond the metalled valley road, it’s preferable to take the so-called Camin dera Montanheta path. This is waymarked yellow and white (see the information board at the car park) and soon crosses to the opposite side of the stream from the track. About 3.5km south of the Banhs you come onto the track again at a hairpin and walk along it for a short distance as it snakes round the upper valley. A sign then directs you onto a path heading to the left, climbing now to pass the little Estanh dera Lossa. Beyond this tarn the path swings to the right and makes the final climb (there are several paths) to the refugi. WALKS AND CLIMBS FROM REFUGI DE COLOMÈRS

Set beside Estanh Major de Colomèrs this hut is in an ideal position to make the most of the mountains, lakes and wild plateaux of the Circ de Colomèrs spreading to the south. With its numerous tarns and pools, the Circ is certainly worth exploring, and given a day or two of fine, settled weather, one could wander for hours on end collecting some extraordinary views. Gran Tuc de Colomèrs (2936m) forms a cornerstone, and may be reached by a long walk and scramble by the following outline route: southeast to Lac Obago, then south to pass several more tarns beneath the retaining wall of mountains to reach Portell (Portau) de Colomèrs (2729m) in the northeast ridge of the Gran Tuc. From the pass bear right

and follow the ridge to the summit (about 4hrs from the refugi). A recommended 6hr Tarn Circuit links more than 20 tarns and pools, first by heading roughly southwest from Estanh Major, rising towards the Creu de Colomèrs, then heading roughly east above the Lac deth Pòrt de Colomèrs to cross the dividing ridge below Tuc del Podu, descending to the northern end of Lac deth Cap de Colomèrs and continuing downvalley, tarn to tarn, until you arrive back at the hut.

20 AIGÜESTORTES EAST – ENCANTADOS Forming the eastern sector of the Parc Nacional d’Aiguestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici, this region of extravagant jutting peaks, remote corries and rock-girt tarns has been aptly termed the Sierra de los Encantados (the Enchanted Mountains) after the showpiece of the area: the gaunt grey monolith-withtwo-heads, the Gran and Petit Encantat, that rise above the dammed lake of Sant Maurici. Smaller in area and much more compact than the western sector (see Chapter 19 : Aigüestortes West), it’s a magical region that owes much of its beauty to glacial activity that carved its rugged outlines, and the water that either lies in a multitude of lakes and pools, or dashes from one level to the next in stream and cascade. Not surprisingly, it’s very popular among Spanish holidaymakers, and late July and August can be extremely busy. Despite this popularity, despite the slowly healing scars of the hydroengineer who diverted streams and dammed lakes in the 1950s, and despite the development of the Super Espot ski area on the park’s boundary, an ‘air of unquiet mystery’ prevails for those with a will to seek it out. Climbers and walkers have much magnificent country to explore. Wandering some of the remote trails you’ll discover a harsh landscape, seemingly devoid of life, where screes and rugged crags dominate, where hardly a scoop of snow remains in summer to soften the overall wash of grey. Then a corner is turned, a ridge gained and an explosion of lush vegetation greets the eye to woo the senses. A lake gleams in the sunlight; an alpine meadow dazzles with flowers; a pine glade fills the air with its resinous perfume… and every horizon is rimmed with fenceposts of granite. The Encantat peaks are conjoined twins – erring shepherds turned to stone, in the mythology of the Pyrenees – that erupt from conifer woods overlooking Estany de Sant Maurici. Gran Encantat has one or two modest routes, but the Petit Encantat has no easy lines and should not be attempted unless a high standard of rock work can be sustained. Meanwhile, a few kilometres away on the north side of the Sant Maurici lake the equally impressive Agulles d’Amitges gaze across the valley at the Encantats and mimic their betterknown neighbours. Neither climber nor walker should visit this region with only the Encantats or Amitges in mind. The enchanted mountains have much to offer and the best advice that can be given is to pack a rucksack with supplies for several days, take a rope (if it’s climbing you’re after) and an open mind and wander into the chaotic glens and their tarn-dressed cirques… and explore them for yourself. ACCESS AND INFORMATION

East of the Besiberri massif, and west of the Noguera Pallaresa, with Val d’Aran to the northwest. From the west, on foot via Portarro d’Espot; from the east by road to Espot. There is no bus service to Espot; the nearest (Val d’Aran–Pobla de Segur) passes about 7km from the Access village. Southerly access is by a long walk from Capdella in Vall Fosca, reached by bus from Pobla de Segur. Editorial Alpina ‘Sant Maurici’ 1:25,000; the region is also covered by IGN Carte de Maps Randonnées No 6 ‘Couserans–Cap d’Aran’ 1:50,000 Bases Espot (1321m), Capdella (1420m) Information Casa del Parc Nacional, Espot (973 624 036) Location

Bases ESPOT (1321m) has developed into a busy – albeit small – tourist resort and ski station. It has several hotels, bars, restaurants, supermarkets, a bank with ATM, and a National Park information office. There are three campsites on the approach to the village. Since vehicle access within the park is restricted, 4WD taxis ferry visitors the 10km of metalled road between Espot and the Sant Maurici lake, and some continue as far as Refugi d’Amitges. CAPDELLA (1420m) in the lovely, sparsely populated Vall Fosca (30km north of La Pobla de Segur) provides a base for a southerly approach to the National Park, although it’s still a half-day trek to the valley-head if you’re without transport. (The village is served by just three buses a week from Pobla.) Capdella is built on two levels with accommodation available in Hostal Leo (Tel 973 663 157) and Hostal Monseny (Tel 973 663 079). There are no shops, restaurants or banks, so go well prepared.

Aigüestortes East is a romantically wild district

Refugis REFUGI JOSEP MARIA BLANC (2330m) is located southwest of Espot on the east bank of Estany Tort de Peguera. Owned by the CEC it has 60 places, is manned from mid-June to mid-September (Tel 973 641 681 www.jmblanc.com ), and may be reached by a walk of about 3–3½hrs from Espot.

REFUGI DE COLOMINA (2425m) is the southernmost hut in the Encantados region, overlooking Estany de la Colomina southwest of Pic de Peguera in the park’s peripheral zone. Owned by the FEEC, and standing in superb high mountain scenery, this wooden chalet has 40 places, and is manned from midJune to the end of September (Tel 973 252 000 www.refugicolomina.com ). It’s gained by a walk of about 2½hrs from the Sallente dam above Capdella, or from Refugi J.M. Blanc via Collado de Saburó. REFUGI ERNEST MALLAFRÉ (1950m) stands among pines at the foot of the Encantats, just 15mins walk from the roadhead at Sant Maurici. A small hut, owned by the FEEC, it’s manned from mid-June to the end of September, and has 34 places (Tel 973 250 118 www.lacentralderefugis.com ). REFUGI D’AMITGES (2380m) enjoys fine views, not only of the Agulles d’Amitges that rise just to the north, but also the Encantats in the southeast. The refugi is owned by the CEC, has 66 places and is staffed from mid-June to mid-September (Tel 973 250 109 www.amitges.com ). Reached by an easy walk of 1½hrs from Sant Maurici, or by 4WD taxi from Espot. REFUGI DE SABORÈDO (2310m) lies north of the watershed, and forms an important link with the Amitges hut by way of Pòrt de Ratèra. Reached in about 5hrs from Salardú in Val d’Aran (see Chapter 19 : Aigüestortes West) by way of the lovely valley of Riu de Ruda (Editorial Alpina map ‘Val d’Aran’), or by vehicle through the valley followed by 1½hrs walk. It belongs to the FEEC, has 18 places, and is manned from the end of January to end April, and midJune to mid-October (Tel 665 289 896 www.feec.org ).

ROUTE 155

Espot (1321m) – Refugi J.M. Blanc (2330m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Espot (1321m) 6km 1009m 2–3 3–3½hrs

Refugi Josep Maria Blanc has a wonderful location on the east shore of Estany Tort de Peguera high in the Peguera valley southwest of Espot, and makes a perfect base for a range of walks and climbs. Although it would be possible to take a 4WD taxi from Espot right to the hut, the footpath alternative is much to be preferred.

Walk upvalley on the road that winds above the village heading for the ski area of Super-Espot. When the road crosses the Riu Peguera immediately above Espot (at Pont de Feners) leave it and take a rough track (signed GR11) heading to the right along the west bank of the stream. The track soon becomes a narrow path which climbs, steeply in places, among trees and shrubs. It remains almost all the way on the west bank and is soon high above the stream. There are several strands of path, all cairned, that lead among trees, over a couple of pastures, and sometimes climb very steeply to reach the dammed Estany de Lladres (2030m) about 2hrs from Espot. Here you join a dirt road and follow it upvalley, heading southwest. In another 1hr or so you come to Estany Tort de Peguera and its small dam. The track passes within a few paces of Refugi J.M. Blanc. WALKS AND CLIMBS FROM REFUGI J.M. BLANC

With almost 30 tarns or pools accessible from this hut, there’s a certain charm about the headwaters of the Riu Peguera. Add to that the curving line of peaks, tufts of pine, grassy hillocks and alpenrose that form mattresses over rocks and boulders, and explorations take on a special appeal. Pala Sudorn (2689m) is a modest peak southeast of the hut, which shows the contrasting nature of the wild Vall de Peguera with the rolling country on the east side of the ridge where the ski-lifts of Super Espot intrude. The summit may be reached by way of a gully which seams the face of neighbouring Pala de Leixa, followed by a stroll along the ridge linking the two (2–2½hrs).

At the head of the valley Pic de Mainera (2905m) commands views not only of the Peguera glen but also down to the attractive tarns and rocks of Colomina to the southwest, and more tarns below to the southeast. A climb of 3hrs or so leads to the summit by way of Estany de Cap del Port and the Cresta de Mainera. This crest curves northwest towards Pic de Peguera, with the 2689m Collado de Saburó being the lowest point. A GR11 variante uses this pass to cross the mountains to Refugi Colomina for a splendid hut-to-hut route that is highly recommended. West of Refugi J.M. Blanc the 2878m Pic de Monastero looks to the lower Encantats peaks which, from here, take on a different appearance from that normally seen from the north. A 2hr ascent route goes via the tarns of Cabana, Escondits and Amagat (linked by a common stream), then up to a col on the mountain’s short north ridge. The south ridge is broken by Collado de Monastero (2715m) from which the summit may also be gained in 40mins. This col enables a tour of the Peguera lakes to be extended by crossing the ridge and descending through the lovely Monastero glen to Estany de Sant Maurici and Refugi Mallafré. This trek would take about 6hrs, plus extra time to include Monastero’s summit. Standing on the park’s boundary at the southwestern corner of the valley Pic de Peguera is the highest in the district at 2982m. It’s not a difficult peak to climb from Collado de Monastero (it finishes with a short scramble to the summit), and is an understandably popular target from the refugi.

ROUTE 156

Refugi E. Mallafré (1950m) – Gran Encantat (2746m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Refugi E. Mallafré (1950m) 2km 796m PD (via the Central Gully) 4hrs Rope, safety helmet advised

The Gran Encantat is the south summit of the twin peaks which look so appealing when viewed across the waters of Sant Maurici. It was first climbed in August 1901 by de Negrin, Romeu, Ciffre and Salles. Refugi Mallafré is reached by a 15min walk from the Sant Maurici dam, or by an alternative approach from Espot which takes a high path on the south side of the metalled road.

Leaving the hut head south through woods to a clearing below the Encantats, then scramble up the steep slope to gain the base of the obvious Central Gully which clefts the Northwest Face of the mountain. Note As this is subject to stonefall, caution is advised. The gully is not difficult, despite appearances, and is climbed by a series of rough slabs and broken rocky sections up its righthand side. On gaining the Enforcadura – the cleft where the two summits strike out as individuals – scramble up the final 50m to reach the south summit. Although there’s considerable exposure as you work across the precipitous face of the mountain, this scramble offers no great problems and route-finding should be uncomplicated as there are obvious traces of previous ascents as a guide. Note The easiest route of descent is by way of the Monastero Gully which cuts the southwest flank of the mountain, where there is less trouble from stonefall.

The Gran Encantat is the right-hand twin OTHER WALKS AND CLIMBS FROM REFUGI E. MALLAFRÉ

A slightly easier route on the Gran Encantat than that of Route 156 is by way of the Monastero Gully . Also graded PD there’s little true rock climbing involved, although the final stretch from the head of the gully to the summit is a demanding scramble. The gully is located on the southwestern flank of the mountain and is reached by way of the little Valleta Seca. The Petit Encantat (the north summit, 2733m) has an AD route which extends from the Central Gully, shared by Route 156. From the Enforcadura (where the two summits divide) the route descends for about 20m, then climbs by way of short gullies, ledges and a vertical pitch to the top. A 5hr walk links the Mallafré hut with Refugi J.M. Blanc by way of the Collado de Monastero , reversing the route outlined in the above box. Another hut-to-hut walk follows a section of the GR11 variante across Portarro d’Espot (2429m) west of Estany de Sant Maurici, and descends an old mule path to Refugi d’Estany Llong in the Vall de Sant Nicolau (see Chapter 19 : Aigüestortes West).

ROUTE 157

Estany de Sant Maurici (1900m) – Refugi d’Amitges (2380m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Estany de Sant Maurici (1900m) 3.5km 480m 2 1½hrs

The comfortable Amitges refugi provides easy access to some truly wonderful wild mountain landscapes northwest of the Sant Maurici lake. Granite and water, pine trees and alpenrose, and a lofty view of the Encantats are among the hut’s attractions.

Refugi d’Amitges and the twin Encantat peaks

This approach is straightforward for it takes a jeep track for much of the way. Begin, however, by heading west on the lakeside path which runs along the north bank of Estany de Sant Maurici. Halfway along the lake come to a junction and take the right fork which climbs through woodland towards the Cascada de Ratèra. Come to a sign directing the route to Estany de Ratèra and, climbing still, angle up to a second sign and continue through woods to meet the jeep track. Follow this uphill to the left, and shortly after crossing the Riu de Ratèra you wander alongside Estany de Ratèra. Just beyond the lake the track forks. Take the right-hand option, soon to gain height more steeply

in a very wild and rocky landscape. About 1½hrs from the information board at the Sant Maurici lake you arrive at the refugi which is set above Estany Gran. To the north soar the dramatic Agulles d’Amitges, while from the bluff behind the hut superb views overlook a sea of jutting peaks to the south. WALKS AND CLIMBS FROM REFUGI D’AMITGES

The first and most obvious attraction for climbers based at the refugi will be the Agulles d’Amitges . Route 158 describes one fairly straightforward ascent route on the northern agulle, but the 2863m Tuc de Ratèra on the watershed ridge west of the Pòrt de Ratera is accessible to walkers by path from the Pòrt, with a little bit of scrambling onto the true summit; a first-rate viewpoint. Several paths and cairned trails entice into the lovely Vall de Ratèra west of the refugi where streams, pools and yet more tarns make this a joy to explore. GR11 crosses Pòrt de Ratèra (2543m) as a link with Refugi de Colomers , while another hut accessible via this pass is the Refugi de Saborèdo in 3–3½hrs – useful for walkers aiming for Salardú in Val d’Aran. On the watershed ridge north of Refugi d’Amitges, between Tuc de Saborèdo and Pic d’Amitges, the 2780m Coll d’Amitges enables trekkers to reach the lovely Vall Gerber and the unmanned Refugi de Mataró .

ROUTE 158

Refugi d’Amitges (2380m) – Agulle d’Amitges (2665m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Refugi d’Amitges (2380m) 1km 285m PD (northern agulle, voie normale ) 1½hrs Rope

The southern peak of the Agulles offers one or two exposed climbs of varying qualities and grades of difficulty on its South Face, while the northern and higher needle gives a modest ascent from the west, with some dramatic views from the summit.

AGULLES D’AMITGES (2665M), ROUTE 158 From the track approaching the Amitges refugi the formidable Agulles (aiguilles) can be seen stabbing skywards. Separated from the Saborèdo watershed ridge by a low-slung col, the granite twins rise north of the hut on the far side of Estany Gran d’Amitges.

From the hut continue along the track a short distance until it ends. Cross the stream which links the two main tarns and work a way to the north on a path (some cairns) over a rough hillside leading into a corrie west of the Agulles, which from here assume a very different aspect. The path skirts the base of the agulles. Shortly after the obvious gap between the two peaks has been reached, a mini gully cuts the broken face of the northern peak. There are marks of previous ascents in grassy patches in the gully. Climb it without undue difficulty to reach a vegetated terrace leading right to a vague saddle giving fine views onto the exposed eastern side. From here one short pitch on firm granite up a broad crack leads directly to the summit block.

The popular Agulles d’Amitges OTHER ROUTES ON THE NORTHERN AGULLE

The short north ridge of this peak has some exposed sections, but the West Face has several moderate gullies giving access to it, mostly of a maximum grade of PD, but the subsequent ridge scramble to the summit should not be underestimated. Another possibility is to go to the obvious saddle at the northern end of the ridge and climb south along its entire length.

ROUTE 159

Capdella/Embalse de Sallente (1790m) – Refugi Colomina (2425m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Capdella/Embalse de Sallente (1790m) 5km 635m 2–3 2–2½hrs

This is a varied and interesting hut approach within the National Park’s southern peripheral zone. Refugi Colomina stands in another tarn-sprinkled region, most of these tarns having been harnessed for hydroelectricity. The electricity company built the hut in the first place, and part of this route follows sections of narrow-gauge track left behind by the hydro-engineers. Note Several tunnels have to be wandered through, and a torch could be useful. The road from Capdella continues upvalley for several kilometres before climbing to the large dam at the southern end of the Sallente reservoir. There are parking spaces at the eastern end of the dam wall, and a cableway at the northern end of the lake.

The walk begins from the car park where a sign indicates the path to Colomina. At first stony, the way rises in long loops to the east and soon comes onto a grassy hillside where the path unravels into several braidings which reunite about 40mins from the start. Here you come onto a crossing track along which lies the old railway.

Refugi Colomina, in the park’s southern peripheral zone

Bear left and immediately enter a tunnel, which is about 20m in length. A second tunnel, about the same length, is entered shortly after. The way then

contours round the hillside and goes through a 100m-long tunnel. Emerge to a stonier landscape and curve round to a fourth (and final) tunnel, this one about 30m long. After this the track leads directly to the dammed Estany Gento at 2142m (1hr). Cross to the west side of the dam where there’s a large building and the cableway from the Sallente reservoir. Beyond the telephèric the path slopes briefly downhill and forks. Take the upper trail, another rocky path which improves and is almost paved in places. It rises into increasingly wild country, and about 40mins from Estany Gento leads to another section of rail. A 5min diversion left will bring you to the long Estany Tort. For Colomina turn right along the track for about 120m, then take a waymarked path slanting above it. The path twists uphill to gain a broad rocky shoulder from which you can see the refugi ahead, just to the right of another dam wall. Skirt below the dam and then climb up to the hut. Ragged granite peaks gather round, with more lakes trapped below them. Note Just before reaching the hut another path cuts left to Collado de Saburó (a GR11 variante going to Refugi J.M. Blanc), with one branch aiming for Coll de Peguera across which there’s a direct route through the Monastero valley to Estany Sant Maurici above Espot.

21 ANDORRA The little mountain-locked Principality of Andorra comprises an area of only 468sq km and consists of one long main valley, the Valira, which runs from the French port of entry in the northeast (at over 2400m) to the Spanish frontier in the southwest corner (at an altitude of about 850m). All commerce is centred on this valley, with cheek-by-jowl hypermarkets in Les Escaldes and Andorra-la-Vella offering duty-free goods as the main attraction; since the Valira is a narrow, steep-walled valley congestion is inevitable. From this main valley a number of ridges radiate like the spokes of a wheel, between which tributary valleys reveal some truly delightful and comparatively unspoilt country, for Andorra wears two faces. While the Valira, with its main town of Andorra-la-Vella, has been sacrificed to the very worst aspects of Western greed and tasteless development, it’s not difficult to find corners of seclusion and great beauty, with deserted pastures and high corries dazzling with tarns. In spring and early summer walkers, climbers and single-minded botanists alike are drawn by a profusion of alpine plants that swamp the valleys and clothe hillsides in a rich palette of colour. Beginning in the north and travelling anticlockwise the main valleys are as follows: Vall d’Incles, Vall de Ransol, Vall del Riu, Valira del Nord, Vall d’Arinsal and Vall d’Aos.

Estany Primer, first of the Pessons lakes (Route 160)

South of the main Valira are the Madriu and Cortals glens, with minor river valleys, or deep gorges, scouring the steep-walled mountains on either side. Andorra’s mountains are not high by Pyrenean standards, for not one reaches 3000m, the highest being the 2942m Pic de Coma Pedrosa above Vall d’Arinsal. Although they’re not noted as being climbers’ mountains there’s plenty of good climbing to be had, especially on granite peaks to the east and south of the Valira. Most ascents, though, demand little more than a steep walk, while scrambling opportunities are numerous. There’s a pay-to-use artificial climbing wall (Agulla de Canillo) on the south side of the main valley road opposite the waterfall bursting from Vall del Riu, and a number of short but adventurous via ferrata routes have also been created. Alf Robertson and Jane Meadowcroft’s guide The Mountains of Andorra (Cicerone Press) describes each of these, plus more than 50 walks and ascents through the Principality, and is highly recommended. No less than 25 unmanned, free-to-use refugis, and one large staffed hut on the slopes of Coma Pedrosa, provide overnight

accommodation away from the villages. ACCESS AND INFORMATION Location

South of the watershed, and west of the Carlit massif. By road from France through the valley of l’Ariège to Pas de la Casa and Port d’Envalira, or Access by rail to l’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre and bus from there. From Spain a road (with bus service) heads north through the Valira’s valley from La Seu d’Urgell. M.I. Consell General ‘Valls d’Andorra’ 1:50,000 IGN Carte de Randonnées No 7 ‘HauteMaps Ariège–Andorre’ 1:50,000, Editorial Alpina ‘Andorra’ 1:40,000 Soldeu, Canillo, Encamp, Les Escaldes, El Serrat, Arinsal; because of its compact size all Bases valleys are accessible in varying degrees to motorised walkers and climbers (see below for details) Information www.visitandorra.com

Refugis REFUGI DE COMA PEDROSA (2272m) is the only staffed hut in Andorra, manned from June to the end of October (Tel 327955). This large and comfortable refugi has 70 places, and is reached by a walk of about 2hrs from Arinsal. Other unmanned refugis, where applicable, are mentioned in the introductory paragraphs to the tributary valleys described below.

ROUTE 160

Grau Roig (2100m) – Estanys dels Pessons (2489m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Grau Roig (2100m) 5km 389m 2 2½hrs

Wandering from lake to lake below the craggy Pessons ridge, this walk makes a fine introduction to Andorra, for each tarn makes a scintillating foreground to photos of the cirque walls, while between and alongside them alpine flowers grow in profusion.

CIRC DELS PESSONS The ski station of Grau Roig, southwest of the Port d’Envalira, is linked with Pas de la Casa to provide nearly 60km of pistes. In summer the tows and carved hillsides proclaim an environmental horror story. But above and to the southwest of Grau Roig the Circ dels Pessons is a glorious amphitheatre of shrubs, rocks and more than a dozen of the most exquisite tarns and pools backed by a ragged wall of granite peaks. Soldeu is the nearest base for an exploration of the cirque, although it will take more than 1½hrs by footpath to reach the Grau Roig car park. Public buses go to within 2km of the same car park, and in summer local buses grind up the hillside from Grau Roig to Estany Primer on the edge of this wonderland, thus saving a walk along a dusty dirt road. Note The current timing of this service inevitably means a mid-morning start.

Unless you choose to take the local bus from the Grau Roig car park, follow a dirt road signed to ‘Restaurant Llac dels Pessons’ which takes you past a chairlift to wind uphill. Passing junctions it cuts back beneath the chairlift and continues to loop up the hillside. When it forks again branch left up a final slope to reach the restaurant, which stands just above the north shoreline of Estany Primer at 2230m. Now take a path behind the restaurant (left of a ski piste), working a way up a slope of rocks, juniper, alpenrose and dwarf pine to reach a grassy saddle. Veer left through a groove between slopes with beautiful views ahead. About 15–20mins from the first lake come to Estany Forcat at 2362m, where the path forks. Bear left and go round the east side of the lake, which is much larger than it first appeared. At its far, southern end, cross its outflow stream on stepping stones and join the red-white waymarks of GR7 heading to the right over a short rock-littered slope, then across another stream to gain height to a third lake, a small reedy tarn about 10mins above Estany Forcat. Go round the right-hand side, over a little rock tip and up another brief slope to Estany Rodó (2380m).

Wandering round the north side of this fourth lake, the path continues to rise. In springtime masses of tiny daffodils will be found here. Gaining height over increasingly rugged terrain, the path brings you to yet another tarn at 2439m, Estany del Meligar. Once again pass along its right-hand (north) side and climb to a sixth tarn, smaller than the last and unnamed on the map. Continuing along its right-hand shore there’s a boulder tip to negotiate. About 5mins later come to two more tarns, the first tiny, the second (Estany de les Fonts, 2489m) much bigger, and the two divided by a strip of grass. Since the route beyond here begins the climb to Collada dels Pessons, this is as good a place as any to turn back.

A summer snowstorm transforms the Circ dels Pessons

Allow 2hrs for a return to Grau Roig by the same route. CLIMBING IN THE CIRC DELS PESSONS

The Pessons cirque offers some rewarding scrambles, as well as more straightforward ascents suitable for walkers. Pic de Gargantillar (2864m) may be reached by little more than a 15–20min walk from the Collada dels Pessons, while Pic dels Pessons (2858m) north of the col has a recommended 200m PD climb in its Couloir Nord . It should be noted that maps are confusing in regard to the names of peaks here. Pic dels Pessons, for instance, is marked on the Editorial Alpina 1:40,000 sheet as being where Pic de Gargantillar is shown on the official Andorran M.I. Consell maps. For our purpose the latter maps are assumed to be correct. South of Grau Roig the 2645m Bony d’Envalira is the long via ferrata , and a clutch of rock routes (AD and D) cut its north flank, while below the Southeast Ridge A la Perdu is a three-pitch winter challenge of 50–65° with A1+.

location of a 250min the coulours that Recenca dels Temps a section of IV and

ROUTE 161

Soldeu (1844m) – Estanys del Siscaró (2325m) – Pont de la Baladosa (1850m) – Soldeu

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Total Descent Grade Time

Soldeu (1844m) 12km 705m 705m 3 5hrs

The Siscaró lakes, which lie in a basin high above Vall d’Incles, provide a scenic highlight for this circular walk.

VAL D’INCLES The glen which drains out of the hills north of Soldeu is a gentle stretch of meadowland between unpretentious mountain walls. A minor road projects as far as Pont de la Baladosa (car park nearby) at the junction of two streams. That which flows from the east comes from Vall de Juclar, at whose head lie the two Estanys de Juclar and the 50-place Refugi Juclar below Pic d’Escobes (2798m). A southern stem of the same valley leads to the 10-place Refugi de Siscaró and the Siscaró lakes. The northern stream converging at Pont de la Baladosa is the Manegor, whose little glen has the Port d’Incles at its head. Beyond this pass, in France, lie the Étangs de Fontargente. Other tarns lie among the hills that form the valley’s west wall, and beside the largest of these stands Refugi Cabana Sorda (2295m) with 20 places.

Unambivalent sign for the route to the Estanys del Siscaró

At the western end of Soldeu, where the road makes a sharp bend to the north, descend a path on the left, but within a few paces fork right below some houses, then slope down the hillside. Reaching a stony track, follow this uphill

to the main road. Cross with care to a grass track rising to the left, but after 100m fork to the right. The way soon narrows to a footpath among trees (yellow spot waymarks), climbs for a while then eases along a pine-clad slope. The path climbs, contours, then climbs again, and about 40mins from Soldeu brings you to a crossing track. Keep ahead on the footpath signed to the Refugi and Estanys del Siscaró. It soon contours left among pine and alpenrose, and crosses several small streams before climbing again. Entering a small grass basin with a waterfall cascading into it, skirt the left-hand side on a rising path, then make a long contour round the northern end of the Tosa d’Incles. As you emerge from the trees you gain a panoramic view of a ragged series of peaks, with Pic d’Escobes seen above the Estanys de Juclar to the northeast (see Route 162 ). On reaching a path junction at 2240m take the right branch. Though not as well defined as the previous paths, yellow waymarks provide a useful guide where the trail is faint. After contouring the route angles up the hillside to gain a high basin which it skirts to the left, continues up to and along a grass rib, then up to a second basin in which the Estanys del Siscaró grace an old glacial cirque (2½hrs). Views from the second lake (Estany de Baix) are especially rewarding.

Take the footpath along the west side of this second lake to where its outflow pours down a steep slope. Descend on the left-hand side of the stream on a path waymarked red and yellow, at first very steeply (caution advised) but then less so as the slope eases. Reach the Siscaró valley near its head – in springtime meadows are running with streams and speckled with a maze of pools (Refugi de Siscaró is on the far side). Veer left alongside meadowland, at the far end of which there’s a signed path junction. Continue ahead to a second junction by a footbridge. Do not cross the bridge but descend a steep path along the left side of the stream to reach Vall de Juclar at another junction. Turn left on a broad stony track to reach a tarmac road at Pont de la Baladosa, and follow this down through Vall d’Incles for a little over 1km, passing a group of houses and a small church at Pont de Bonavida. A sign indicates a grass track cutting back below the road (Bosc d’Incles, Planell Gran and Soldeu). Through marshy meadows cross a bridge where a vague path then rises towards a solitary house, and continues up the slope beyond to gain a crossing path where you turn left. Over a stream shortly come to a track where you turn right. At first easy, the gradient increases as you climb through pinewoods to another crossing path. Remain on the track which rises to 1980m, then becomes a footpath descending to Soldeu, which is reached above Hotel Soldeu.

A group of walkers descends from the Estanys del Siscaró

ROUTE 162

Soldeu (Pont de la Baladosa, 1850m) – Collada de Juclar (2442m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Soldeu (Pont de la Baladosa, 1850m) 5km 592m 3 2½hrs

On the Franco–Andorran border in the northeast of the Principality, Collada de Juclar makes a great viewpoint above the Juclar lakes. The walk to it is popular, albeit quite steep and laborious in places: a walk of waterfalls, rocks and tarns.

Refugi de Juclar is one of Andorra’s many unmanned huts

Without your own transport it will take about 45mins to walk from the valley entrance to Pont de la Baladosa where there’s a car park. Once there follow a broad track heading east into Vall de Juclar on the south bank of the stream. About 100m beyond a junction with the path to Siscaró (see Route 161 ), cross the stream on an attractive humpback bridge. A path now swings round the edge of a picnic site and rises gently. After a while the gradient increases. Cut across a boulder tip, then top a bluff to enter a region of cascades, pine trees, alpenrose and rock slabs. Ascend a gully and emerge to a view of more cascades. The path climbs to a

footbridge at 2110m where you cross the cascades and resume the ascent into an increasingly rocky area. So reach a partly enclosed grassy basin which you skirt along its left-hand edge, cross another footbridge and come to a rocky basin with a ruined building on the left. Beyond this resume climbing to gain the first of the Estanys de Juclar at 2294m. Above it on the frontier ridge stands Pic d’Escobes (2799m), the ‘Matterhorn of Andorra’. Bear right to reach the Refugi de Juclar (2310m). The continuing path to the Collada goes to the eastern end of the lake, then branches left to pass between it and the second lake, before climbing steeply in a northeasterly direction to gain the Collada de Juclar on the border with France. From there views in both directions sparkle with lakes. Allow 2hrs for a return to Pont de la Baladosa by the same path.

ROUTE 163

Soldeu (Pont d’Incles, 1748m) – Pont de Bonavida (1810m) – Port d’Incles (2262m) – Étangs de Fontargente (2160m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Total Descent Grade Time

Soldeu (Pont d’Incles, 1748m) 6.5km 514m 102m 2 2½hrs

This walk crosses the Franco–Andorran border by an easy route to visit the Fontargente lakes.

From the bus stop on the Soldeu side of Pont d’Incles (at the entrance to Vall d’Incles) you have two options: Follow the tarmac road into the valley for about 2km to the lovely church and houses at Pont de Bonavida, or Take a footpath which begins just below the bus stop, and is signed to Siscaró. This angles uphill across the wooded east slope of the valley, and after about 30mins brings you to a crossing track. Turn left and follow the track and footpath down to a solitary house. Continue down the slope to a bridge over the Riu d’Incles, and up the other side to the houses and church at Pont de Bonadiva. Cross the road to a track signed Cami del Port d’Incles. When it forks take the left branch to wind uphill towards an isolated house. On the final bend below the house continue ahead on a waymarked path which angles across the hillside among stands of broom and trees. Though fairly narrow the path is undemanding, affording views east to the Valls de Juclar and Siscaró. Through pine glades you enter the open meadowland of Manegar where there’s a signed path junction. Keep ahead, cross the Riu del Manegar to another path coming from Pont de la Baladora, and continue towards the obvious saddle of the Port d’Incles (also known as Port de Fontargente).

Walkers on their way to the Port d’Incles

About halfway to the pass recross the stream to the left for the final climb to the saddle. This is gained about 2–2½hrs from Pont d’Incles. The two Étangs de Fontargente lie about 100m below on the French side, and are easily gained in about 20mins. Allow 2hrs for a return by the same path.

ROUTE 164

Soldeu (1844m) – Canillo (1526m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Total Descent Grade Time

Soldeu (1844m) 8km 50m 318m 1–2 1½–2hrs

This mostly easy walk (with some slightly exposed sections) is an Itinerari de Nature, linking two villages. Well signed with a red capercaillie as its symbol, there are several marked ‘escape routes’ offering ways across the valley to the main road. At the end of the walk it’s possible to return to Soldeu by local bus.

Begin at the western end of Soldeu where the main road makes a sharp righthand bend. A broad path on the left slopes downhill, and when it forks after a few paces keep ahead to descend between vaguely terraced meadows. Veering left the way cuts across slopes of broom, then over the Pont de Collart which spans the Riu Valira d’Orient. Now take a rising path into mixed woods, join another path and, crossing minor streams, gain a view into Vall d’Incles. Follow a dirt road until it curves right, then walk straight ahead on a narrow path which takes you down almost to river level, before rising then contouring to reach a small suspension bridge (45mins). Ignoring the ‘Cami a Les Bordes’ escape route the way continues with several alternative paths cutting from it. At each junction the nature trail is either obvious or marked with the capercaillie symbol. The path takes you high above both river and road where they’ve cut their way through a narrow section of valley, and you enjoy a good view of the Cascada dela Vall de la Riu which lands in a pool close to the road far below. Nearby on the south side of the Valira is the man-made spire of the Agulla de Canillo climbing wall.

Suspension bridge on the Itinerari de Nature between Soldeu and Canillo

Crossing a rocky pine-topped bluff the way zigzags below a cascade, then climbs to a slightly exposed contouring section (fixed cable) and on to a viewpoint overlooking the church of St-Jean-de-Caselles and the hamlet of El Vilar. A little further and there are more fixed cables, then a break in the trees allows a sighting of Canillo ahead. After another brief exposed section reach a final viewpoint, then go through a short low tunnel, cross a footbridge and descend to Canillo on a stony path.

ROUTE 165

Ransol (1700m) – Refugi dels Coms de Jan (2218m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Ransol (1700m) 5km 548m 1–2 1½–2hrs

Of no great length or difficulty, this makes a very pleasant outing, especially in springtime when the flowers are at their best and cascades burst with snowmelt.

VALL DE RANSOL Vall de Ransol is entered from the Valira at the small village of Ransol, above El Tarter on the main road some 2km west of Soldeu. A valley to suit the flower specialist as well as the walker planning a traverse of the upper ridges, a metalled road projects into it for about 4km, but this has little traffic. At its head the cirque of Coma de Ransol carries the border with France, but below the ridge there are several small tarns, with the tiny 10-place Refugi dels Coms de Jan set in a grassy basin running with streams and with a clear view south through the valley.

The walk begins at the Ransol bus stop a little west of El Tarter where a metalled road angles uphill to the village and valley of Ransol. The village is small but quite attractive, with hotel accommodation, a shop and an eyecatching water trough in the square. Where the road forks in the village take the right branch. Shortly before it curves left, continue ahead on a track which soon becomes a rough path. This eventually rises to a side road where you bear left to rejoin the main valley road at Pont de Mos (1832m). Now on the left side of the Riu de la Coma follow the road upstream. There’s little traffic and the valley is extremely pleasant with riverside meadows, pinewoods and the Coma de Ransol (the cirque at the head of the valley) enticing in the north. About 1.5km along the road a sign on the right indicates the way to Refugi Jan in 45mins. Near an imposing gate in a wall surrounding a large property, yellow waymarks direct the way, rising more or less alongside the boundary wall. Climbing among spacious pinewoods and crossing several streams, come to a path junction, take the right branch and continue rising. There are two noteworthy stream crossings within a few paces of each other. Note Both these stream crossings require caution when the water level is high, for the rocks on which you step may be submerged.

Above the second of these crossings the gradient steepens as you mount a grass slope just left of a stream, with cascades above and to the right. Before long the angle eases and the path cants to the right, emerging at the lower end of a basin dazzling with streams, pools and more cascades. Just above, and slightly left, sits the tiny Refugi dels Coms de Jan with its clear view down the length of the Vall de Ransol. Behind the hut the Coma de Ransol rises in steps to the frontier ridge; a charming area of rock and water, flowers and fine views. Allow at least 1hr to descend by the same path. OTHER WALKS AND CLIMBS IN VALL DE RANSOL

In The Mountains of Andorra the authors describe routes onto the frontier ridge above the refugi, and the ascent of the popular Pic de la Serrera (2913m), but the whole sweep of the Coma de Ransol is worth exploring. If you have your own transport the parking area at the roadhead reduces the approach march by at least 1hr. VALL DEL RIU This short hanging valley appears to be little more than a ravine at its southern end, but is broad and welcoming further north. Located immediately to the west of Vall de Ransol, it may be entered by a trail that extends from Plan (Els Plans), a hamlet neighbouring Ransol. A walk of about 2½hrs from Plan leads to Refugi de la Vall del Riu (2160m), another simple hut with 10 places. The valley does not reach as far north as the frontier, but is enclosed by ridges that splay out from Pic de la Cabaneta. With its tarns, meadows and flowers, the upper valley is extremely beautiful, and there are some splendid outings to be made there. See The Mountains of Andorra for a selection.

ROUTE 166

Arcalís (1940m) – Estanys de Tristaina (2249m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Arcalís (1940m) 2km 309m 2 1–1½hrs

The three Tristaina lakes lie one above another in a cirque crowned by Pic de Tristaina in Andorra’s northwest corner. To the south the ski slopes of Ordino-Arcalís have been cluttered with tows, but the Tristaina cirque remains delightfully untouched. About 5km above El Serrat, and just after emerging from a road tunnel, there’s an extensive parking lot by the ticket booths of the Ordino-Arcalís chairlift. Local buses from Ordino pass through in summer.

VALIRA DEL NORD Disgorging into the main Valira at the fume-choked conurbation of Andorra-la-Vella and Les Escaldes, Valira del Nord is the longest of the northern valleys and, after the Valira itself, the one that has seen most development. Sections of the valley retain some of their former beauty; tobacco grows in the fields, and cattle graze pastures that in early summer are a mass of wild flowers. But at its head hillsides have been sacrificed to the ski industry. The Valira del Nord forks at La Massana (La Macana), with Vall d’Arinsal slanting off to the northwest while the main road continues roughly northward (northeast as far as Ordino). At El Serrat two streams converge from tributary glens. The road veers northwest and climbs to the purposebuilt ski resort of Arcalís (Ordino-Arcalís), and it is from this road that the popular Tristaina lakes are accessible by a short walk (see Route 166 ). Northeast and east of El Serrat trails head up into the high hills where there are more mountain huts, the busiest being Refugi de Sorteny (1969m, 25 places) to the east, accessible in just 10mins from a road that climbs from El Serrat. More upmarket accommodation in Valira del Nord is available at La Massana, Ordino and El Serrat.

Wander along the road a short distance beyond the ticket booths, and at the first left-hand hairpin break off to the right on a minor road/track. In a few paces this crosses a stream, and 150m later you cut left on a narrow path which climbs steeply up the hillside and leads to the same stream that was crossed below on the road. Continue uphill to top a rise overlooking a rough grass basin with two cascades pouring into it.

The Tristaina cirque in Andorra’s northwest corner

The path is now rather faint, but a few cairns and occasional red spots serve as waymarks as the route makes for the ‘saddle’ ahead from which one of the waterfalls appears. There are several streams to cross, sometimes by stepping stones. After the first of these streams note the small shelter on the right – a domed hovel of stone roofed with turf.

As you progress towards the waterfall the path becomes more clearly defined, and the saddle is gained about 40mins from the road. A signpost stands at a junction of paths. The way ahead goes to Port de Rat. Bear right and climb the steep hillside in a series of loops with yellow waymarks. About 15mins from the junction come onto the rocky ridge to discover the first of the lakes (Estany Primer) – a lovely scene of water, rocks, grass slopes and a curving wall of mountains which carries the Franco–Andorran border. Go down to the outflow stream and take the path on the right-hand side of the lake. This leads up to the second tarn (Estany del Mig) in 15mins, and the upper lake (Estany de Més Amunt) about 15mins after that.

Return by the same path (1hr). Note Do not take the alternative path seen tracing the north side of the outflow stream, for this is thin and exposed and potentially dangerous where it crosses a series of narrow rock shelves. OTHER WALKS AND CLIMBS FROM VALIRA DEL NORD

The ascent of the 2878m Pic de Tristaina which heads the cirque northeast of the upper lake is a worthwhile objective. Some scrambling on the exposed upper crest is involved, but the route is a popular one (see The Mountains of Andorra ). Using El Serrat as a base a day-long circuit is possible by heading northeast up the Vall de Rialb, following the Riu de Rialb to its head beneath Portella de Rialb (Portella de Varilles, 2509m), then descending the far side of the pass through the glen drained by the Riu de Varilles. This brings you back to the road at Pont de Castellar, 3km or a bus ride from El Serrat. The ascent of Andorra’s third-highest mountain, Pic de l’Estanyo (2915m), is made from Refugi de Sorteny in 4–5hrs. The route heads up alongside the stream flowing from Estany de l’Estanyó which lies below and to the west of the peak, and the summit is reached by a steep haul from the lake via the northwest ridge.

ROUTE 167

Arinsal (1467m) – Refugi de Coma Pedrosa (2272m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Arinsal (1467m) 4km 805m 1–2 2hrs

The Coma Pedrosa understandably attracts plenty of attention. Since construction of the refugi its popularity has increased, so don’t expect to make this approach walk in solitude – in summer the route is one of the busiest in Andorra. It is, however, a very pleasant walk, on the route of GR11 all the way, with the hut set in a charming location near the Estany de les Truites.

VALL D’ARINSAL, ROUTES 167 AND 168 Breaking away from Valira del Nord at La Massana, Vall d’Arinsal takes peak-seekers to Andorra’s highest, Pic de Coma Pedrosa, and for long-distance trekkers a variety of passes leading over the mountains to both Spain and France. Arinsal has been transformed by high-rise apartment blocks and hotels, and comes alive in winter with its many ski-lifts lacing the western slopes, but in summer it is still possible to find peace in the mountains. Two huts serve the Coma Pedrosa massif: the unmanned Refugi del Pla de l’Estany (2060m), with 10 places, and Refugi de Coma Pedrosa (2272m), with 70 beds, meals provision, and staffed from June to the end of October. Pic de Coma Pedrosa (2942m) Coma Pedrosa is Andorra’s highest peak, a large bald mountain cluttered with rocks and screes in its upper reaches, but lush with pastures, shrubs and trees lower down. The ascent makes for an enjoyable – if long – day’s expedition, with summit views that include a tangled landscape out towards the Estats-Montcalm massif and the forested Ariège. East and southeast, Andorra is spread in a disordered pattern of meadow, stone-built hamlet and barren mountains, while Spain’s sierras disappear in a haze of blue. With the Principality’s only manned refuge conveniently situated below the peak in the valley of the Riu de Coma Pedrosa, the ascent can be broken into a recommended 2-day outing.

The road leading north out of Arinsal goes through a tunnel beneath a massive avalanche protection wall. Out of the tunnel turn right and follow a track (pista ) twisting upvalley to a barrier, beyond which it continues on its way towards the Pla de l’Estanys. When the track makes a right-hand bend a signpost signals the start of a path heading left into the valley of the Riu de Coma Pedrosa (20mins). Climbing among pine trees you reach the Riu d’Areny, a stream coming from the north at a point known as the Aigües Juntes (1760m). Both this – and the main stream – are bridged, after which the path rises steeply on the south side of the Riu de Coma Pedrosa. In the early summer alpenrose colour the slopes

as you gain height to reach a delightful platform stepped naturally into the hillside, surrounded by trees and rocky bluffs and watered by meandering streams. Climb steeply to the Collet de Coma Pedrosa, a minor pass at 2240m, opening into a lovely upper valley out of which rises the South Face of Coma Pedrosa (about 1hr 45mins from Arinsal). Unseen from here the refugi is located above to the left, with the Estany de les Truites just beyond it. To return to Arinsal by the same route will take about 1hr 15mins; for the ascent of Pic de Coma Pedrosa see Route 168 below.

ROUTE 168

Refugi de Coma Pedrosa (2272m) – Pic de Coma Pedrosa (2942m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Refugi de Coma Pedrosa (2272m) 3km 670m F 2hrs

This is probably the most popular route by which to climb Andorra’s highest mountain. It’s straightforward, on paths virtually the whole way. Note The upper slopes are fairly steep, and in the early summer may be partly covered by snow.

From the refugi return to the GR11 path, which advances upvalley on the left of the stream. Mountains that close the head of the valley carry the Spanish– Andorran border, but your attention will undoubtedly be caught by a waterfall cascading from the right-hand slope ahead.

The Cercle de Coma Pedrosa

Passing below the waterfall the gradient steepens and swings to the right, and as you climb northeastward you cross the outflow stream from the little Basses d’Estany Negre – this is the stream that forms the waterfall lower down. Continue past the tarn, working a way up a rocky defile to gain a second, but larger lake, Estany Negre, at 2628m (1hr 45mins). Just before this the path forks. The GR11 route continues up to the Port de Baiau on the frontier ridge, but we take the right-hand alternative led by yellow waymarks. This climbs a slope of scree to gain Coma Pedrosa’s rocky Southwest Ridge, which leads without complication to the summit.

Despite its height, Coma Pedrosa is not a mountain of singular appeal, for in truth it’s a shapeless lump. But that does not detract from the magnificent summit panorama, and if you’re fortunate enough to have it to yourself soak it in and enjoy the sense of solitude and peace. Allow 3½hrs to return to Arinsal. OTHER WALKS AND CLIMBS IN VALL D’ARINSAL

The 2914m Pic de Medacorba marks the junction of three borders – Andorra, Spain and France – and may be climbed by its crumbling southern ridge above Collada dels Estanys Forcats above the Pla d’Estany. Though not technically difficult, the ascent from the col demands care. The Pla d’Estany at the head of Vall d’Arinsal is worth exploring for itself. There’s the small 10-place Refugi Pla d’Estany that makes a simple base, the two Estanys Forcats to visit, and the easy ascent of Pic del Pla de l’Estany (2859m) on the frontier with France some way east of Medacorba.

ROUTE 169

Les Escaldes (1050m) – Refugi de l’Illa (2485m)

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time

Les Escaldes (1050m) 12km 1435m 2–3 5hrs

To walk to the head of the valley and back would make a very long day, so the recommendation is to take food and a sleeping bag, and spend the night at the refugi. That way you’ll have time and energy to explore, and to enjoy its wonderfully wild location.

VALL DEL MADRIU, ROUTE 169 On the south side of the main Valira, the valley of the Madriu river is long, undeveloped and very beautiful. Access is from Les Escaldes, and once the horrors of that congested town have been left behind, the valley offers some of the best opportunities for solitude in all Andorra. There are several simple huts and lots of places where an overnight’s camp could be made. A tributary of the Madriu, Vall de Perafita, breaks from the latter near the stone-built hamlet of Entremesaigues, about 1hrs walk from Les Escaldes. This too is worth exploring, but the best is to be found in the upper reaches of the Madriu where it broadens into a high cirque with a number of tarns to mirror the Crestes de Gargantillar, on the far side of which lies the Circ dels Pessons. Beside the largest of these Gargantillar lakes stands the Refugi de l’Estany de l’Illa (2485m), an unmanned hut with an official sleeping capacity of 60.

About 100m east of the church of St Père Martin in the main street of Les Escaldes, find Hotel Montanya on the south side of the road. Beside it the narrow, steeply climbing cobbled and paved alley of Cami de la Canaleta winds between buildings, then continues up and out of town. Shortly before it disgorges onto a road take a right branch up steps onto the road which you cross with care and turn left to a petrol station. Immediately after this an old paved mule track cuts sharply right and is waymarked red-white for the GR7. This stone-paved way continues to rise steeply, soon among trees, and 20 mins from Les Escaldes brings you to a minor road (1240m). Cross directly ahead where a sign indicates the way for both GR7 and GR11. The paved way progresses through a gorge which marks the entrance to Vall del Madriu, and is flanked by pine, rowan, box and birch trees. The gradient eases, and about 10mins from the last road crossing an old stone bridge takes you over the river at 1310m. Now on the east side, in another 20mins you arrive at the collection of buildings of Entremesaigües (1470m). Here the path divides. The right branch heads into Vall de Perafita.

Remain on the old mule path on the left of the Riu Madriu, and as the valley begins to open out, in another 15mins come to Ràmio (1620m), a few neat buildings on the edge of walled and terraced meadows, backed by a scree slope. The path angles across this to find a junction with a path cutting back to the left to Estany d’Engolasters. Ignore this and keep ahead, passing some attractive river sections to reach the 14-place Refugi de Fontverd (1830m) about 2hrs from Les Escaldes. Beyond Fontverd the way resumes through woodland before the valley broadens, and about 20mins or so from the refugi there’s a beautiful area of meadowland sliced with streams off to the right. Another path veers away to cross the Riu Madriu and, via the Collada de la Maiana, goes to Vall de Perafita, with an option to cross the Port de Perafita into Spain. Keeping to the main GR7 path continue heading southeast before the valley curves leftward and, passing through the meadows of Pla de l’Ingla, come to the little Refugi Riu dels Orris at 2230m (4hrs). Our destination is just 2km further upvalley, and another 250m higher, and with the frontier ridge closing on the right, the path twists up into a landscape of tarns, marshy meadows and streams. This is Els Estanys, and as you gain height through it so the Gargantillar cirque closes the head of the valley, and at last you reach the unattractive but comfortable Refugi de l’Illa, set just below a dam at the southern end of the lake after which it is named. A magnificent day’s walk ends in a fine location. Allow at least 3½hrs to return to Les Escaldes. Note A highly recommended extension to this walk passes round the southeast shore of Estany de l’Illa, where the path forks. Take the left branch (GR7) heading north, climbing over scree and grass towards the ridge below and to the right of Pic de Gargantillar. The waymarked route then cuts left to pass below the summit in order to reach Collada dels Pessons (2792m). Cross the coll and descend through the glorious tarnjewelled Circ dels Pessons (see Route 160 ) to Grau Roig (3½hrs). Public transport is available nearby.

ROUTE 170

A Circuit of Andorra’s Frontier Peaks

Start/Finish Distance Height gain Grade Time Equipment

Andorra’s Frontier Peaks c160km c15,000m in total 3 12 days Rope plus bivvy gear, including small stove

Andorran Ridge Walk: A classic challenge is the circumnavigation of Andorra’s mountain rim. It should not be undertaken lightly, but treated as an expedition of some seriousness. Although there are no major climbing obstacles, the overall circuit demands expertise on rock and long spells of settled weather. Andorra’s peaks and ridges are not friendly places when storms are raging, and some sections of the crest are both very loose and exposed.

This expedition is comparable to the Cuillin ridge, but about six times as long, and the time taken depends on weather conditions and expertise of the party. Numerous unmanned huts are found below the route, but it’s not always convenient to descend to them. Plan carefully, and either set food caches in appropriate places to avoid long descents to villages for restocking, or arrange to be met by supporters with supplies. Water flasks are essential. The route is best undertaken in an anticlockwise direction on account of the most difficult sections which are probably the Cresta de Varilles above Vall d’Incles, the gendarme-crusted ridge of Pic de Font Blanca, and the splintered Cresta del Forat on the Spanish frontier northwest of Coma Pedrosa. The hardest pitches are rated VS, and both the length of the route and the need to carry a full load combine to make this a serious expedition. Start at Port Negre southeast of Andorra-la-Vella and work eastward above Vall del Madriu, finishing perhaps on the road which leads from Aixovall (above St Julia) to Os de Civis in Spain.

APPENDIX A

Useful Addresses Tourist Information

French Government Tourist Office 178 Piccadilly London W1J 9AL Tel 0906 824 4123 (60p/min) [email protected] www.franceguide.com Spanish National Tourist Office 64 North Row London W1K 7DE Tel 0207 317 2028 [email protected] www.spain.info Tourist Office of Andorra [email protected] www.visitandorra.com National Parks Administration

Parc National des Pyrénées 59 Route de Pau 65000 Tarbes France Tel 05 62 44 36 60 pyrenees.parc.national@espaces-nat www.parc-pyrenees.com Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido Plaza de Cervantes 5 22071 Huesca Spain Tel 974 24 33 61 www.ordesa.net Parque Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici C/ Camp de Mart 35 25004 Lleida Spain Tel 973 24 66 50 www.catalunya.com/parc-nacional-daiguestortes

Dirección Parque Posets-Maladeta C/Ricardo del Aro 6 22071 Huesca Spain Tel 974 23 06 35 Map Suppliers

Cordee Ltd 11 Jacknell Road Dodswell Bridge Industrial Estate Hinckley, Leics LE10 3BS www.cordee.co.uk Edward Stanford Ltd 12–14 Long Acre London WC2E 9LP Tel 0207 836 1321 [email protected] www.stamfords.co.uk The Map Shop 15 High Street Upton-upon-Severn Worcs WR8 0HJ [email protected] www.themapshop.co.uk Specialist Mountain Activity Insurers

AAC members only Austrian Alpine Club 12a North Street Wareham Dorset BH20 4AG Tel 01929 556 870 [email protected] www.aacuk.org.uk Membership carries automatic accident and rescue insurance BMC members only BMC Travel and Activity Insurance 177–179 Burton Road Manchester M20 7ZA Tel 0870 010 4878 www.thebmc.co.uk Snowcard Insurance Services

Lower Boddington Daventry NN11 6BR Tel 01327 262 805 www.snowcard.co.uk

APPENDIX B

Bibliography The number of English-language books covering the Pyrenees has grown rapidly in recent years. The following list is necessarily selective, but may be considered useful to readers of the present guide. Some titles listed are out of print, but may be available through public libraries, specialist book suppliers or the Internet. General Guides

The Rough Guide to the Pyrenees by Marc Dubin (The Rough Guides, 5th ed. 2004) – excellent coverage in typical no-nonsense Rough Guide style, of use to all visitors to the range. Mountains of the Pyrenees by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press, 1982) – a first attempt in English to record the history of climbing and exploration throughout the region covered by the present guidebook. The Pyrenees by Bob Gibbons and Paul Davies (Batsford, 1990) – gives brief information on various aspects of the range, including walking, climbing and skiing. The Pyrenees – IGN Touring & Leisure Guide (IGN/Robertson McCarta, 1991) – basic information, mainly for motorised visitors to the French side. The French Pyrenees by John Sturrock (Faber & Faber, 1988) – coast-tocoast guide giving good background information, history and so on without actually getting into the mountains. Landscapes of the Pyrenees by Paul Jenner and Christine Smith (Sunflower Books, 2002) – a slim touring guide (with a handful of short walks) by the authors of the original Pyrenean Rough Guide. Wild Spain by Frederic V. Grunfeld (Ebury Press, 1988) – includes chapters on the Pyrenees of special interest to wildlife enthusiasts. Details where to go, what to see, and how to get there. The Man Who Married a Mountain by Rosemary Bailey (Bantam, 2005) – the story of mountaineering’s greatest eccentric, Count Henry Russell. The Pyrenees by Hilaire Belloc (Methuen, 1909) – a Pyrenean classic; a travelogue still worth reading more than a century after it was written. From Sea to Ocean by J.M. Scott (Geoffrey Bles, 1969) – an entertaining account of the author’s two journeys on foot across the Pyrenees from coast to coast; first on the Spanish side, then the French. The Enchanted Mountains by Robin Fedden (The Ernest Press, 2000) – originally published in 1962, this lyrical account of three climbing trips to

the Pyrenees in the mid-1950s is a minor classic of mountaineering literature that captures the romantic nature of the range as it was before tourist development. Deserves to be on the bookshelves of all who love these mountains. Walking, Trekking and Climbing Guides

The Pyrenees by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press, 2004) – comprehensive valley-to-valley coverage for all mountaineering activities – walking, trekking, climbing and skiing. Classic Walks in the Pyrenees by Kev Reynolds (Oxford Illustrated Press, 1989) – a selection of the best walks throughout the range, illustrated with colour and black-and-white photographs. Long Distance Walks in the Pyrenees by Chris Townsend (Crowood Press, 1991) – similar to the above, 10 multi-day routes are described in the High Pyrenees; well illustrated, and with useful planning information. Rock Climbs in the Pyrenees by Derek L. Walker (Cicerone Press, 1990) – the first English-language climber’s guide (with topos) to the range, with routes on Pic du Midi, Ordesa cliffs, Riglos, Vignemale, in Valle de Tena and Sierra de Guara. The GR10 Trail by Paul Lucia (Cicerone Press, 2002) – the classic longdistance walk from Hendaye to Banyuls described in 50 day stages, plus variantes. The GR11 Trail by Brian Johnson (Cicerone Press, 2014) – replaces the late Paul Lucia’s classic guide to the long distance route across the Spanish Pyrenees in 45 stages. Pyrenean Haute Route by Ton Joosten (Cicerone Press, 2004) – highly recommended guide to the magnificent coast-to-coast High Route described in 42 stages. The Mountains of Andorra by Alf Robertson and Jane Meadowcroft (Cicerone Press, 2005) – a guide to walks, scrambles, via ferrata routes and treks in the tiny Principality. 100 Walks in the French Pyrenees by Terry Marsh (Hodder & Stoughton, 1992) – a handy guide to walks of varying grades in and neighbouring the PNP. Trekking in Spain by Marc Dubin (Lonely Planet, 1990) – multi-day walks in the wild regions of Spain, with sections devoted to parts of the Pyrenees. Walking in Spain by Miles Roddis and others (Lonely Planet, 1999) – much of mainland and island Spain covered, with a section on the Spanish Pyrenees and Andorra.

Trekking in the Pyrenees by Douglas Streatfeild-James (Trailblazer Publications, 3rd ed. 2005) – deals mostly with sections of GR10 and GR11. Pyrenees 1, 2 and 3 by Roger Büdeler (Rother, 2003/4/5) – a series of three guides to walks in the central Pyrenees, translated by Gill Round.

APPENDIX C

Glossary The following list contains a number of words specific to the Pyrenees and not found in most dictionaries. FRENCH Abri Aiguille Arète Auberge Barrage Bas Bois Cabane Chemin Cime Cirque Col Crête Dalle Danger Droite Éboulis Église Ermitage Escalade Étang Ferme Fontaine Gauche Gave Gorge Gourg Grand(e) Grange Grotte Haut Herbe Hébergement Horaire Hourquette Maison Mine Montagne Moulin Nègre Neige Paroi Pas

ENGLISH Shelter Pinnacle Ridge Hotel Dam Low Wood Hut Path/way Summit Amphitheatre Col/pass Ridge Slab Danger Right Scree Church Hermitage Climbing Lake Farmhouse Fountain/spring Left River/stream Gorge Tarn/lake Great Barn Cave High Grass Accommodation Timetable Col/gap House Mine Mountain Mill Black Snow Wall Pass/step

SPANISH Abrigo Aguja Arista Pensión/hostal Presa Baja/bajo Bosque Cabaña Camino Cima/cumbre Circo Puerto Cresta Placa Peligro Derecha Pedrero Iglesia Ermita Escalada Lago/estany Finca Fuente Izquierda Arroyo Barranco Lago/Ibón Gran/grande Borda Cueva Alto/Altura Hierba Alojamiento Horario Puerto Casa Mina Montaña Molino Negro/negra Nieve Pared Paso

CATALAN Abrigo Agulla/agulle Aresta Pensió/hostal Presa Baix Bosc Cabanya/Borda Cam/camí Cim Circ Port Cresta/coma/serra Placa Perill Dreta Pedrera/tartera Església Ermita Escalada Estany/llac Finca Font Esquerra Rierol Barraca Estany/llac Gran Borda Cova Alt/allau Herba Alojamiento Horari Port Casa Mina Muntanya Molí Negre Neu Paret Pas

Pente Pic Pierre Piste Pont Port Pré Refuge Rivière Rocher Rouge Ruisseau Sentier Sommet Vallée

Slope/meadow Summit Stone Dirt road Bridge Pass/col Meadow Hut River Rock Red Stream Path/track Summit Valley

Falda/cuesta Pico Piedra Piste Puente Puerto Prado/pradera Refugio Rio Roca Rojo/roja Torrente/arroyo Sendero Cima Valle

Clots Cap Pedra Pista Pont Port Pla/Prat Refugi Riu Roca/roc Roig Rierol/torrent Sender Pala Vall

Lac de Suyen in the Vallée d’Arrens (Routes 26, 27)

APPENDIX D

Route Index Route THE FRENCH PYRENEES: CIRQUE DE LESCUN TO THE CARLIT MASSIF Cirque de Lescun 1 Lescun – Refuge de Labérouat 2 Lescun – Pic d’Anie 3 Lescun – Lac de Lhurs 4 Lescun – Cabane de Pédain 5 Cabane de Pédain – Cabane d’Ansabere 6 Lescun – Cabane d’Ansabere 7 Cabane d’Ansabere – Pic d’Ansabere 8 Lescun – Ibón de Acherito 9 Cabane d’Ansabere – Refuge d’Arlet 10 Cirque de Lescun and the Frontier Ridge 11 Lescun to Refuge d’Ayous

Grade Time

1 F 3 2-3 2 2-3 F 3 3 3 3

1-1½hrs 5hrs 3hrs 3hrs 30mins 3hrs 2½hrs 3-3½hrs 7½hrs 4 days 2 days

Pic du Midi d’Ossau 12 Lac de Bious-Artigues – Ref d’Ayous 13 Lac de Bious-Artigues – Col Suzon – Refuge de Pombie 14 Lac de Bious-Artigues – Col Peyreget – Refuge de Pombie 15 Caillou de Soques – Refuge de Pombie 16 Col du Pourtalet – Refuge de Pombie 17 Refuge de Pombie – Pic du Midi d’Ossau 18 Ayous Lakes Circuit 19 Tour of Pic du Midi d’Ossau 20 Extended Tour of Pic du Midi

2 2 3 2 2 F+ 2 3 3

2hrs 3hrs 3½hrs 2hrs 1½hrs 3-3½hrs 4½-5hrs 5½hrs 8-8½hrs

Balaïtous 21 Caillou de Soques – Refuge d’Arrémoulit 22 Caillou de Soques – Lac d’Artouste – Refuge d’Arrémoulit 23 Lac d’Artouste – Refuge d’Arrémoulit 24 Refuge d’Arrémoulit – Pic Palas 25 Refuge d’Arrémoulit – Refuge de Larribet 26 Plan d’Aste – Refuge de Larribet 27 Plan d’Aste – Refuge Ledormeur 28 Plan d’Aste – Refuge Migouélou 29 Lac d’Artouste – Refuge Migouélou 30 Refuge d’Arrémoulit – Refugio Respomuso 31 Sallent de Gallego – Refugio Respomuso 32 Tour of the Balaïtous Region 33 Lac du Tech – Lac de Pouey-Laün 34 Refuge d’Arrémoulit – Balaïtous 35 Refuge de Larribet – Balaïtous

3 3 1-2 PD3 2 2 3 2-3 3 2 3 3 F+ D+

3½hrs 4hrs 1-1½hrs 3-3½hrs 3½hrs 2½hrs 2hrs 3hrs 3hrs 3-3½hrs 2½hrs 3 days 3-3½hrs 4-4½hrs 4-4½hrs

The Gourette Massif 36 Gourette – Lac d’Anglas

2

37

Gourette – Lac du Lavedan

2

38

Gourette – Arrens-Marsous – Gourette

3

2-2½hrs 21½23hrs 2 days

Vallée 39 40 41 42

d’Estaing Circuit of Lac Lac d’Estaing Lac d’Estaing Lac d’Estaing

Vallée 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53

du Marcadau Cauterets – Chalet-Refuge du Clot Chalet-Refuge du Clot – Refuge Wallon Pont d’Espagne – Refuge Wallon Refuge Wallon – Grande Fache Refuge Wallon – Port du Marcadau Refuge Wallon – Pic de Cambalès Refuge Wallon – Col de Cambalès Marcadau Lakes Circuit Refuge Wallon – Col d’Arratille A Tour of the Arratille Valley Refuge Wallon to Gavarnie

d’Estaing – Lac du Plaa de Prat – Refuge d’llhéou – Lac du Barbat

1 2 3 2-3

45mins 2hrs 3½hrs 2½hrs

1-2 1-2 1-2 F 2-3 F 3 3 3 3 3

2-2½hrs 1½hrs 2½hrs 3-3½hrs 2½hrs 4hrs 3-3½hrs 4-5hrs 2½-3hrs 4-5hrs 2 days

Vignemale 54 Pont d’Espagne – Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube 55 Refuge des Oulettes – Refuge de Bayssellance 56 Refuge des Oulettes – Petit Vignemale 57 Hourquette d’Ossoue – Pointe Chausenque 58 Barrage d’Ossoue – Refuge de Bayssellance 59 Refuge de Bayssellance – Vignemale 60 Refuge des Oulettes – Torla 61 Refuge des Oulettes – Refuge d’Estom

2 3 F AD3 F 3 3

2½-3hrs 2½hrs 3-3½hrs 2½hrs 2½-3hrs 3hrs 8hrs 2½-3hrs

Vallée 62 63 64 65

2 2 3 3

1½hrs 1½hrs 2-2½hrs 2hrs

Gavarnie 66 Gavarnie – Plateau de Bellevue – Gavarnie 67 Gavarnie – Hôtellerie du Cirque – Gavarnie 68 Gavarnie – Refuge des Espuguettes

2 2 2-3

69

Gavarnie – Piméné

F

70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78

Col de Tentes – Pic de la Pahule Gavarnie – Refuge de la Brèche Col de Tentes – Refuge de la Brèche Gavarnie – Refuge de la Brèche via Échelle des Sarradets Refuge de la Brèche – Pic du Marboré Refuge de la Brèche – Tour du Marboré Refuge de la Brèche – Casque du Marboré Refuge de la Brèche – Pic du Taillon Refuge de la Brèche – Refugio de Góriz

1-2 3 2-3 3 F+ F F F 3

2hrs 4hrs 2hrs 441½2hrs 1hr 3½hrs 2hrs 4hrs 3½-4hrs 2½hrs 2hrs 2hrs 2½-3hrs

de Lutour Cauterets – La Fruitière La Fruitière – Refuge d’Estom Refuge d’Estom – Lac Glacé La Fruitière – Refuge Russell

Estaubé, Troumouse and Barroude

79

Barrage des Gloriettes – Cabane de Estaubé

1

1hr

80 81 82

Héas – Lac des Aires – Le Cot Héas – Refuge de Barroude Refuge de Barroude – Port Vieux – Refuge de Barroude

2-3 3 2-3

2-2½hrs 5½-6hrs 5hrs

Reserve Naturelle de Néouvielle 83 Barèges – Refuge de la Glere 84 Barèges – Lac dets Coubous 85 Barèges – Cabane d’Aygues-Cluses 86 Barèges – Pic de Madamete – Pont de la Gaubie 87 Barèges – Chalet-Hotel de l’Oule 88 Barèges – Refuge de Bastan 89 Chalet-Hotel de l’Oule – Refuge de Bastan 90 Artigues – Refuge de Campana de Cloutou 91 Vallée de Couplan – Chalet-Hotel de l’Oule 92 A Walking Circuit of Lac de l’Oule 93 A Circuit of Lac d’Aumar 94 A Néouvielle Lakes Circuit

2 2 2 3 3 2-3 2 3 1 1 1 3

3½hrs 1½hrs 2hrs 5½-6hrs 6½-7hrs 4-5hrs 1½-2hrs 3½hrs 45mins 2-2½hrs 1½hrs 2 days

Lac d’Oo and the Cirque d’Espingo 95 Granges d’Astau – Refuge d’Espingo 96 Refuge d’Espingo – Refuge du Portillon 97 Refuge d’Espingo – Ort d’Oô – Refugio de Estos

2 3 3

2-2½hrs 2-2½hrs 6-7hrs

3 2 3 3

3½-4hrs 1½-2hrs 6hrs 3hrs

3

6½-7hrs

2-3 3 3 2-3

3½hrs 4½-5hrs 2hrs 2½hrs

2-3 3 2 2 F F 3 3

2½-3hrs 6-7hrs 3hrs 4-5hrs 4½-5hrs 3-3½hrs 2 days 3 days

2 3 3

2hrs 4hrs 5hrs

Vallées de la Pique and du Lis 98 Vallée du Lis – Refuge du Maupas 99 Refuge du Maupas – Lac Célinda 100 Vallée du Lis – Lac des Grauès – Vallée du Lis 101 Hospice de France – Port de Vénasque Hospice de France – Pas de la Montjoie – Puerto de la Picada – Hospice de 102 France Haute 103 104 105 106

Vallée du Garbet Aulus-les-Bains – Cascade du Fouillet – Aulus-les-Bains Aulus-les-Bains – Étang de Guzet – Cascade d’Ars – Aulus-les-Bains Aulus-les-Bains – Étang du Garbet Aulus-les-Bains – Refuge de Bassies

The Carlit Massif 107 Orlu – Refuge d’En Beys 108 Refuge d’En Beys – Porté-Puymorens 109 l’Hospitalet – Refuge des Besinès 110 Walking Tour of the Vallée de Lanous 111 Porté-Puymorens – Pic Carlit 112 Chalet-Refuge des Bouillouses – Pic Carlit 113 The Carlit Lakes Tour 114 Tour du Carlit THE SPANISH PYRENEES: ORDESA TO ANDORRA Ordesa National Park 115 Torla – Pradera de Ordesa 116 Pradera de Ordesa – Refugio de Góriz 117 Pradera de Ordesa – Circo de Soaso – Faja de Pelay – Ordesa

118 119

Pradera de Ordesa – Faja los Canarellos – Ordesa Refugio de Góriz – Añisclo Canyon – Puente de San Úrbez

3 2-3

4-5hrs 6-6½hrs

120 121 122 123

The Spanish Canyons Tour Refugio de Góriz – Monte Perdido Valle de Pineta – Monte Perdido Valle de Pineta – Llanos de La Larri

3 F PD 2

3 days 3½-4hrs 7hrs 1½hrs

The Posets Massif 124 Eriste – Refugio Ángel Orús 125 Eriste – Refugio Clot de Chil 126 Benasque – Refugio de Estós 127 Refugio de Estós – Pico de Posets 128 Refugio de Estós – Pico de Posets via S.E. Arête 129 Puente Nuovo de San Chaime – Ibúnes d’Escarpinosa 130 Refugio de Estós – Refugio de Viadús 131 Refugio de Viadús – Refugio Ángel Orús 132 Tour of the Posets Massif

2 2 2 PD AD2-3 2-3 3 3

3½hrs 3hrs 4hrs 5½-6hrs 6hrs 3-3½hrs 4-4½hrs 5hrs 3-4 days

The Maladeta Massif 133 Hospital de Benasque – Ibún de Gorgutes 134 Hospital de Benasque – Forau dels Aigualluts 135 Hospital de Benasque – Refugio de la Renclusa 136 Refugio de la Renclusa – Pico de Aneto 137 Refugio de Coronas – Pico de Aneto 138 Refugio de la Renclusa – Pico de la Maladeta 139 Refugio de la Renclusa – Pico de la Maladeta via Cresta de los Portillones 140 Refugio de la Renclusa – Pico de Alba 141 Refugio de la Renclusa – Pico Forcanada 142 Hospital de Benasque – Refugi Sant Nicolau

2 1 1-2 F+ F F PD+ F PD 3

1½-2hrs 2hrs 2hrs 5-5½hrs 5-6hrs 4hrs 4½hrs 3½hrs 5-5½hrs 7½-8hrs

Aiguestortes West – The Besiberri Massif 143 Vall de Sant Nicolau – Refugi d’Estany Llong 144 Refugi d’Estany Llong – Estany Redú 145 Refugi d’Estany Llong – Portarrú d’Espot 146 Estany de Cavallers – Refugi de Besiberri 147 Estany de Cavallers – Refugi Ventosa i Calvell 148 Refugi Ventosa i Calvell – Besiberri Nord 149 Tour of the Agulles de Travessani 150 Refugi Ventosa i Calvell – Montardo d’Aran 151 Refugi Ventosa i Calvell – Refugi de la Restanca 152 Arties – Refugi de la Restanca 153 Refugi Sant Nicolau – Refugi de la Restanca 154 Salardu – Refugi de Colomers

2 2 2 3 2 PD 3 F 3 2 3 2

3-3½hrs 2-2½hrs 1½hrs 4-4½hrs 2hrs 5-5½hrs 7½-8hrs 2-2½hrs 3½hrs 1½hrs 7-7½hrs 1½hrs

Aiguestortes East – Encantados 155 Espot – Refugi J.M. Blanc 156 Refugi E. Mallafré – Gran Encantat 157 Estany de Sant Maurici – Refugi d’Amitges 158 Refugi d’Amitges – Agulle d’Amitges 159 Capdella – Refugi Colomina

2-2 PD 2 PD 2-3

3-3½hrs 4hrs 1½hrs 1½hrs 2-2½hrs

Andorra 160 Grau Roig – Estanys dels Pessons

2

2½hrs

161 162

Soldeu – Estanys del Sescaró – Soldeu Soldeu – Collada de Juclar

3 3

5hrs 2½hrs

163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170

Soldeu – Port d’Incles – Étangs de Fontargente Soldeu – Canillo Ransol – Refugi dels Coms de Jan Arcalis – Estanys de Tristaina Arinsal – Refugi de Coma Pedrosa Refugi de Coma Pedrosa – Pic de Coma Pedrosa Les Escaldes – Refugi de l’llla A Circuit of Andorra’s Frontier Peaks

2 1-2 1-2 2 1-2 F 2-3 -

2½hrs 1½-2hrs 1½-2hrs 1-1½hrs 2hrs 2hrs 5hrs 12 days

LISTING OF CICERONE GUIDES British Isles Challenges, Collections and Activities The End to End Trail The Mountains of England and Wales: Vol 1 Wales The Mountains of England and Wales: Vol 2 England The National Trails The Relative Hills of Britain The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland The UK Trailwalker's Handbook The UK's County Tops Three Peaks, Ten Tors UK Cycling 20 Classic Sportive Rides - South East England Border Country Cycle Routes Cycling in the Cotswolds Cycling in the Hebrides Cycling in the Peak District Cycling in the Yorkshire Dales Cycling the Pennine Bridleway Mountain Biking in the Lake District Mountain Biking in the Yorkshire Dales Mountain Biking on the North Downs Mountain Biking on the South Downs The C2C Cycle Route The End to End Cycle Route The Lancashire Cycleway Scotland Backpacker's Britain: Central and Southern Scottish Highlands Backpacker's Britain: Northern Scotland Ben Nevis and Glen Coe

Great Mountain Days in Scotland Not the West Highland Way Scotland Scotland's Best Small Mountains Scotland's Far West Scotland's Mountain Ridges Scrambles in Lochaber The Ayrshire and Arran Coastal Paths The Border Country The Cape Wrath Trail The Great Glen Way The Hebrides The Isle of Mull The Isle of Skye The Pentland Hills: A Walker's Guide The Skye Trail The Southern Upland Way The Speyside Way The West Highland Way Walking Highland Perthshire Walking in Scotland's Far North Walking in the Angus Glens Walking in the Cairngorms Walking in the Ochils, Campsie Fells and Lomond Hills Walking in the Southern Uplands Walking in Torridon Walking Loch Lomond and the Trossachs Walking on Harris and Lewis Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay Walking on Rum and the Small Isles

Walking on the Isle of Arran Walking on the Orkney and Shetland Isles Walking on Uist and Barra Walking the Corbetts Vol 1 South of the Great Glen Walking the Corbetts Vol 2 North of the Great Glen Walking the Galloway Hills Walking the Lowther Hills Walking the Munros Vol 1 - Southern, Central and Western Highlands Walking the Munros Vol 2 - Northern Highlands and the Cairngorms Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glen Coe Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms Northern England Trails A Northern Coast to Coast Walk Hadrian's Wall Path The Dales Way The Pennine Way North East England, Yorkshire Dales and Pennines Great Mountain Days in the Pennines Historic Walks in North Yorkshire South Pennine Walks St Oswald's Way and St Cuthbert's Way The Cleveland Way and the Yorkshire Wolds Way The North York Moors The Reivers Way The Teesdale Way The Yorkshire Dales: North and East The Yorkshire Dales: South and West Walking in County Durham Walking in Northumberland Walking in the North Pennines

Walking in the Yorkshire Dales: North and East Walks in Dales Country Walks in the Yorkshire Dales Walks on the North York Moors - Book 1 Walks on the North York Moors - Book 2 North West England and The Isle of Man Historic Walks in Cheshire Isle of Man Coastal Path The Isle of Man The Lune Valley and Howgills - A Walking Guide The Ribble Way Walking in Cumbria's Eden Valley Walking in Lancashire Walking in the Forest of Bowland and Pendle Walking on the West Pennine Moors Walks in Lancashire Witch Country Walks in Ribble Country Walks in Silverdale and Arnside Walks in the Forest of Bowland Lake District Coniston Copper Mines Coniston Old Man Great Mountain Days in the Lake District Helvellyn Lake District Winter Climbs Lake District: High Level and Fell Walks Lake District: Low Level and Lake Walks Roads and Tracks of the Lake District Rocky Rambler's Wild Walks Scafell Pike

Scrambles in the Lake District - North Scrambles in the Lake District - South Short Walks in Lakeland Book 1: South Lakeland Short Walks in Lakeland Book 2: North Lakeland Short Walks in Lakeland Book 3: West Lakeland Skiddaw The Central Fells The Cumbria Coastal Way The Cumbria Way The Cumbria Way and the Allerdale Ramble The Far Eastern Fells The Lakeland Fellranger Collection The Mid-Western Fells The Near Eastern Fells The Northern Fells The North-Western Fells The Southern Fells The Western Fells Tour of the Lake District Derbyshire, Peak District and Midlands High Peak Walks Scrambles in the Dark Peak The Star Family Walks Walking in Derbyshire White Peak Walks: The Northern Dales White Peak Walks: The Southern Dales Southern England Suffolk Coast and Heaths Walks The Cotswold Way The Great Stones Way

The North Downs Way The Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path The Ridgeway National Trail The South Downs Way The South West Coast Path The Thames Path The Two Moors Way Walking in Essex Walking in Kent Walking in Norfolk Walking in Sussex Walking in the Chilterns Walking in the Cotswolds Walking in the Isles of Scilly Walking in the New Forest Walking in the Thames Valley Walking on Dartmoor Walking on Guernsey Walking on Jersey Walking on the Isle of Wight Walks in the South Downs National Park Wales and Welsh Borders Glyndwr's Way Great Mountain Days in Snowdonia Hillwalking in Snowdonia Hillwalking in Wales - Vol 1 Hillwalking in Wales - Vol 2 Offa's Dyke Path Ridges of Snowdonia Scrambles in Snowdonia

The Ascent of Snowdon The Ceredigion and Snowdonia Coast Paths The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path The Severn Way The Shropshire Hills The Wales Coast Path The Wye Valley Walk Walking in Pembrokeshire Walking in the Forest of Dean Walking in the South Wales Valleys Walking in the Wye Valley Walking on Gower Walking on the Brecon Beacons Welsh Winter Climbs International Challenges, Collections and Activities Canyoning Canyoning in the Alps Europe's High Points The Via Francigena Canterbury to Rome - Part 1 The Via Francigena Canterbury to Rome - Part 2 European Cycling Cycle Touring in France Cycle Touring in Ireland Cycle Touring in Spain Cycle Touring in Switzerland Cycling in the French Alps Cycling the Canal du Midi Cycling the River Loire The Danube Cycleway

The Danube Cycleway Volume 1 The Grand Traverse of the Massif Central The Moselle Cycle Route The Rhine Cycle Route The Way of St James Cyclist Guide Africa Climbing in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas Kilimanjaro: A Complete Trekker's Guide Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas The High Atlas Trekking in the Atlas Mountains Walking in the Drakensberg Alps - cross border routes 100 Hut Walks in the Alps Across the Eastern Alps: E5 Alpine Points of View Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 1 - Western Alps Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 2 - Central and Eastern Alps Chamonix to Zermatt Snowshoeing The Tour of the Bernina Tour of Mont Blanc Tour of Monte Rosa Tour of the Matterhorn Trekking in the Alps Trekking in the Silvretta and Rätikon Alps Walking in the Alps Walks and Treks in the Maritime Alps Pyrenees and France/Spain cross border routes The GR10 Trail

The GR11 Trail - La Senda The Mountains of Andorra The Pyrenean Haute Route The Pyrenees The Way of St James - France The Way of St James - Spain Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees Austria The Adlerweg Trekking in Austria's Hohe Tauern Trekking in the Stubai Alps Trekking in the Zillertal Alps Walking in Austria Belgium and Luxembourg Walking in the Ardennes Eastern Europe The High Tatras The Mountains of Romania Walking in Bulgaria's National Parks Walking in Hungary France Chamonix Mountain Adventures Ecrins National Park Mont Blanc Walks Mountain Adventures in the Maurienne The Cathar Way The GR20 Corsica The GR5 Trail The Robert Louis Stevenson Trail Tour of the Oisans: The GR54

Tour of the Queyras Tour of the Vanoise Trekking in the Vosges and Jura Vanoise Ski Touring Via Ferratas of the French Alps Walking in Corsica Walking in Provence - East Walking in Provence - West Walking in the Auvergne Walking in the Cevennes Walking in the Dordogne Walking in the Haute Savoie: North Walking in the Haute Savoie: South Walking in the Languedoc Walking in the Tarentaise and Beaufortain Alps Walks in the Cathar Region Germany Germany's Romantic Road Hiking and Biking in the Black Forest Walking in the Bavarian Alps Himalaya Annapurna Bhutan Everest: A Trekker's Guide Garhwal and Kumaon: A Trekker's and Visitor's Guide Langtang with Gosainkund and Helambu: A Trekker's Guide Manaslu: A Trekker's Guide The Mount Kailash Trek Trekking in Ladakh Trekking in the Himalaya

Iceland and Greenland Trekking in Greenland Walking and Trekking in Iceland Ireland Irish Coastal Walks The Irish Coast to Coast Walk The Mountains of Ireland Italy Gran Paradiso Italy's Sibillini National Park Shorter Walks in the Dolomites Through the Italian Alps Trekking in the Apennines Trekking in the Dolomites Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 2 Walking in Abruzzo Walking in Italy's Stelvio National Park Walking in Sardinia Walking in Sicily Walking in the Central Italian Alps Walking in the Dolomites Walking in Tuscany Walking in Umbria Walking on the Amalfi Coast Walking the Italian Lakes Mediterranean Jordan - Walks, Treks, Caves, Climbs and Canyons The Ala Dag The High Mountains of Crete

The Mountains of Greece Treks and Climbs in Wadi Rum, Jordan Walking in Malta Western Crete North America British Columbia The Grand Canyon The John Muir Trail The Pacific Crest Trail South America Aconcagua and the Southern Andes Hiking and Biking Peru's Inca Trails Torres del Paine Scandinavia Walking in Norway Slovenia, Croatia and Montenegro The Islands of Croatia The Julian Alps of Slovenia The Mountains of Montenegro Trekking in Slovenia Walking in Croatia Walking in Slovenia: The Karavanke Spain and Portugal Costa Blanca Walks: Vol 1 West Mountain Walking in Southern Catalunya The Mountains of Nerja The Northern Caminos Trekking through Mallorca Walking in Madeira Walking in Mallorca

Walking in Menorca Walking in the Algarve Walking in the Cordillera Cantabrica Walking in the Sierra Nevada Walking on Gran Canaria Walking on La Gomera and El Hierro Walking on La Palma Walking on Lanzarote and Fuerteventura Walking on Tenerife Walking the GR7 in Andalucia Walks and Climbs in the Picos de Europa Switzerland Alpine Pass Route Central Switzerland The Bernese Alps - Switzerland The Swiss Alps Tour of the Jungfrau Region Walking in the Valais Walking in Ticino - Switzerland Walks in the Engadine - Switzerland Techniques Geocaching in the UK Indoor Climbing Lightweight Camping Map and Compass Mountain Weather Outdoor Photography Polar Exploration Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

The Book of the Bivvy The Hillwalker's Guide to Mountaineering The Hillwalker's Manual Mini Guides Alpine Flowers Avalanche! Navigating with a GPS Navigation Pocket First Aid and Wilderness Medicine Snow Mountain Literature 8000 metres A Walk in the Clouds Unjustifiable Risk? For full information on all our guides, and to order books and eBooks, visit our website: www.cicerone.co.uk .