Simply Crochet - 049

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19 PATTERNS TO HOOK

INTRODUCING

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Find the perfect shade for every project Brand new yarn available exclusively at LoveCrochet.com 0845 544 2196

Raid your stash for colour – it’s playtime! This issue, take your accessories up a notch with neon brights, sharpen your amigurumi skills with four super-cute toys and get all the latest on some very special crochet-along projects. Let’s be bold.

Have a hook Halloween! y

Boo! Find me on page 15.

ISSUE FORTY-NINE

CONTENTS

11 13

31 pop Your ColLar

10

51

37 hook in A weeKend

for him or her

Psst

Tuniian cochet to wea!

StyLish and CreAtive PatTerns Y0U’ll L0ve 15 AMIGURUMI GHOST & BAT 18 NEON IDEAS 31 TUNISIAN CROCHET JACKET 37 FINGERLESS MITTS 46 AMIGURUMI BAT GIRL 51 MONOCHROME BAG

BRIGHT NEON PROJECTS P18

55 LACY TUNIC DRESS 58 BABY DUNGAREES 63 CROCODILE STITCH SET 73 AUTUMN GARLAND 83 MINI AMIGURUMI DOLL 95 MAKE A MOTIF

What’s Kat Goldin been woking on? p42 Little Box of rochet reveal thei fave project on p98

58

46 let’S

55 Lacy tunic

koalA Cutie

Hang ouT

73 WreatH it

66

63 Learn a stitch

Good ReaDs

how to...

09 HOOKED 40 OUR CROCHET-ALONG 42 KAT GOLDIN’S JOURNAL 66 LAST DANCE ON THE BEACH

76 YARN REVIEWS

Meet the bloggers behind Wink’s CAL

87 THE GUIDE

78 SHOW US YOURS! 98 MY HOOKY TREASURE

Handy step-by-steps for you

83 make a face

Our choice of zingy neon brights 80 THE WORKSHOP Fine tune your amigurumi skills

40

Little Box of Crochet’s top make

Ou latet pick of hooky goodie on p12

Neon yan! p76

Hook it brighter As the daylight hours start getting shorter, I find myself reaching for the sunniest yarns in my stash. Our collection of super-bright neon accessories this issue is the perfect antidote to gloomier weather and will definitely get you noticed! As well as cheery colours, we’re loving toys this month, with four (yes, four!) cute amigurumi designs to stitch. I have to admit Batgirl (p46) is a favourite of mine. Get stuck in and have a hooky Halloween!

Commissioning Editor Sara Huntington Art Editor Charlene Lim Technical Assistant Cara Medus Production Editor Becca Parker Deputy Art Editor Kim Saunders Digital Editor Kate Evans Cover Photography Phil Sowels Photography Philip Sowels, Jesse Wild, Dave Caudery Group Art Editor Louise Day Editor-in-Chief Debora Bradley Group Senior Editor Julie Taylor

AdvErTisInG Call 0117 300 8206 Senior Advertising Manager Penny Stokes Account Sales Manager Rachael Hawkins Brand Sales Executive Heather Candlish

MarKeTing & SubScRipTions Direct Marketing Executive Kate Jones

ConTrIbuTors Merci beaucoup to these fantastic folks...

CirCuLatIon Head of Newstrade Marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade Marketing Manager Janine Smith

ProDuCtiOn Production Controller Sarah Greenhalgh Production Manager Emma McGuinness / Siân Rodgers Production Director Sarah Powell

BuyIng Team Paul Torre, Karen Flannigan, Corinne Mellerup

LicEnSing Senior Licensing & Syndication Manager Tim Hudson

“I’M A LOVER OF ALL THIN GS CREATIVE AND CUTE .”

“I CAN HAPPILY POOTLE FOR MANY AN HOUR.”

AMANDA BLOOM

KATE EASTWOOD

The enterprising (and totally lovely) lady behind monthly subscription service Little Box of Crochet shares her very favourite project with us on page 98. It’s a whole lot of funghi.

Just Pootling crochet blogger Kate has designed a beautiful leafy garland for us that also doubles as a wreath. You’ll ind it on page 73. Prepare for some serious autumnal eye candy.

PubLiShiNg Craft Publishing Director Kerry Lawrence Managing Director Bristol Andy Marshall Chairman Stephen Alexander Chief Executive Officer Tom Bureau

SubScRipTions Call 0844 576 7871 or subscribe online at www.buysubscriptions.com/craft

Need to get in TouCh? EDITORIAL TEAM [email protected] SUBSCRIPTIONS TEAM [email protected] 01795 419845

Next IssUe on Sale ThuRsday 13 oct 2016 No gift included? Ask your newsagent. Covergift may be unavailable overseas.

“I TEND TO WORK VERY METH ODICA LLY!” LUCY CROFT Simply Crochet regular Lucy is a wizard with colour. She put those skills to good use designing the Pick ‘n’ Mix blanket for our crochet-along. Get the lowdown on page 40.

“I LOV E TAKING INS PIRATI ON FRO M THE NATURA L WOR LD! ” EMMA FRIEDLANDER-COLLINS Author, Steel&Stitch blogger and #crochetgirlgang encourager – Emma is one busy bee. Find her magical mittens on page 24 and her crocodile stitch makes on page 63.

OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Ilaria Caliri, Hannah Cross, Judy Darley, Helen Dorritt, Anne Egan, Simone Francis, Kat Goldin, Sophie Jordan, Molla Mills, Fran Morgan, Becky Skuse, Louise Smith, Matthew Spiers, TB Ramsden

Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (company number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered oice of Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage.

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2 0 1 4

2 0 1 5

King Cole Giza 4Ply 50g 100% Cotton Found in all good wool retailers

For your local stockist, call: 01756 703670 email: [email protected] | www.kingcole.com Join us on Facebook & Twitter For every King Cole pattern you buy, a donation will be made to the Pink Ribbon Foundation. Pattern Featured: 4710

Ideas

Inspiration

Accessories

Websites

Events

Stuff

Hooray for Crochyay

There’s nothing nicer than receiving a parcel of yarny goodness through the post each month, and Crochyay is the newest subscription service on the hooky scene. Choose from a monthly or yearly subscription, then sit back and wait for your box of treats and surprises, including an exclusive Crochyay pattern. Non-subscribers can also buy boxes as a one-off on a first come, first served basis. Visit www.crochyayboxes.co.uk to sign up. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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HELLO PETAL Hook a floral W

New pattern

AUTUMN SHADES

C

rochet ponchos and shawls are something of an obsession for us here at Simply Crochet HQ, so naturally it’s quite a big deal whenever we spot a new one. This Stylecraft beauty scores highly, being both lacy and floral, and the autumnal colours of the Cabaret yarn have a hint of dreamy sparkle. Even better – the pattern is by the Stylecraft Design Team and is free to download at www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk

CHARITY CROCHET

Photographs by Janice Issitt www.janiceissittlifestyle.com

We Love... Crafting can make a powerful political statement, and that’s what group Sixty Million Trebles is aiming to do. Named after the estimated number of refugees worldwide, its plan is to set a record for the largest crochet blanket containing 60 million treble stitches. After using the blanket as a yarn bomb in London to raise awareness of the plight of refugees, it will be split into blankets for UK charities and Hand in Hand for Syria. Wanna help? Hook a 36in square in any colour and yarn weight. The group needs 13,050 squares to break the world record so all donations will be gratefully received, as well as volunteers to help stitch them together. Find the group on Facebook by searching for ‘sixty million trebles’.

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brooch and raise awareness of lymphoma with this free pattern designed by Lymphoma Lass. She’s recently undergone some treatment herself for lymphoma and her aim is to raise awareness of the condition and to fundraise for the Lymphoma Association. Head to http://bit.ly/ sc49flower for the pattern. You can make a donation on Lymphoma Lass’ Just Giving page at www. justgiving.com/ fundraising/ LymphomaLass

SO PRETTY IN PINK

win

In issue 48 we proudly revealed our exclusive, limited edition Simply Crochet yarn created by British indie dyer The Wool Kitchen (www. thewoolkitchen.etsy.com). We’re thrilled with the response we’ve had from you lovely lot! To celebrate the arrival of our bold pink Treblemaker shade, we’re giving you the chance to get your mitts on some. Two lucky readers will each receive a skein of the super-bright hand-dyed 4ply. To enter, visit http://competition.immediate.co.uk/ sc49yarn. Wondering what it could make? One skein of Treblemaker is all you need to hook Kat Goldin’s Here Comes Treble shawl from issue 48. The asymmetric accessory was designed especially for this yarn. Sorted.

HOOKED

INSPIRING BOOKS COLD WEATHER CROCHET MARLAINA ‘MARLY’ BIRD (£16.54, Interweave) Growing up in Colorado, Marly Bird has plenty of experience of cold weather, but her 21 designs in this book aren’t just cosy, they’re full of texture and colour, too. The scarf on the cover is a fave, but there are also beanies, mitts, shawls, slippers and blankets, for men and women.

mini profile

KATE EASTWOOD We had a chat with Just Pootling blogger and designer Kate to find out how she got hooked on crocheting. She told us: “I don’t think I had to even try to love crochet – it just happened, instantly, the first time I picked up a hook – BAM! Hook, line and sinker, I was smitten. Having always been a knitter, I was convinced I didn’t need crochet in my life – but how wrong I was! I stumbled across an article about Nicki Trench’s fabulous book Cute and Easy Crochet, and like a thunderbolt I knew I had to make everything in the book. So, I headed straight to Youtube and I taught myself from videos. I find inspiration everywhere. The seasons, my family, colours, books, Instagram, shop windows, my home, magazines, the internet – the list is endless. There’s never a time when I don’t have a little seed of an idea growing away somewhere inside my head. OK, I’m just going to come straight out with it – I’m a Sniffer not a Squisher! I simply

Kate’s crocheted wedding favours and other cute creations.

cannot pick up a new ball of yarn without giving it a full-on, deep down inhale, and a very long sniiiiff. Squishing I can take or leave, but sniffing? It has to be done. I have two favourite projects. The first is the blankets I made for all three of my girls when they left home as I know they have been much snuggled under and have given endless hugs whenever I haven’t been around to give them myself. And the second is the red hearts I crocheted as favours for our eldest daughter’s wedding last summer. Much reminiscing took place while I made them, wondering at how quickly the years had flown by since ‘playing weddings’ was just a dressing-up game for three little girls.” Kate blogs at www.justpootling.blogspot.co.uk. Find her pretty autumn garland on page 73.

XSUBS STARS! X

Every month, three subscribers win a prize as a thank you for their loyalty to Simply Crochet. This month, the winners (below) will each receive a copy of Kat Goldin’s Hook, Stitch & Give book. Mrs M Readitt, Macclesfield Mrs Erika Griffiths, Ealing Miss Mary Holt, Holmfirth

Immediate Media Company, publishers of Simply Crochet, Subs Stars giveaway terms and conditions. Prizes were dispatched before the on sale date of this issue. There are no cash alternatives. Three winning entries will be chosen at random from all current subscribers. The draw is inal and no correspondence will be entered into.

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

EDWARD’S CROCHET IMAGINARIUM KERRY LORD (£14.99, Pavilion) This book is an infinite source of creativity – if you’re into toy-making, it’s a must. Find basic patterns for a head and body, plus flipbook pages with 23 arms, 23 legs and 23 head effects to mix and match. With loads of ideas for modifications, you could make millions of toys.

CROCHET GEOMETRY SHANNON MULLETT-BOWLSBY (£16.99, Lark Books) Shannon’s collection of 15 geometric patterns lives up to his high standard. There’s a choice of shrugs, cardis, pullovers and wraps, each with minimal shaping and maximum drape, sized to fit up to a 60-inch bust size.

HOW TO SPIN BETH SMITH (£5.99, Storey Publishing) If you’ve ever been curious about spinning yarn, this book is a wonderful guide to the whole process. Beth is a friendly and down-to-earth teacher who offers clear and detailed instructions along with the easy-to-follow illustrations. It’s pocket-sized, too.

POM POWER W You can never craft

too many pompoms, and this Clover gadget will speed up the making. Open the ring, wrap your yarn around, close, snip and voilà! Perfect fat, fluffy pompoms. There are three packs to choose from with two makers in each (Large pictured), priced at £6.60. For stockists, contact clover@stockist enquiries.co.uk

JOIN THE HERD

D

esigner and maker Mary Kilvert is famous for her needle-felted sheep who wear individual knitted jumpers, and she’s now immortalised her colourful flock on this cotton tote bag. Screen printed on both sides, we think it’s a baa-rilliant way to carry around your latest WIP! Buy it for £12 from www.marykilvert.com. This quirky Flock of Colourful Sheep design is also available on mugs, notebooks, tea towels, cushions and more on Mary’s website. Don’t ewe love it?

New book

GETYOURWEAVEON If you want to expand your yarn crafting repertoire, why not try your hand at weaving? Rachel Denbow’s new book DIY Woven Art is a great place to start, as it features 15 designs from colourful fringed wall hangings to pillow shams and table runners, all with gorgeous yarns and geometric themes. Regular A Beautiful Mess contributor Rachel has also included easy-peasy instructions on how to make three simple looms, which means you’ll soon be creating all sorts of woven wonders from your yarn stash. Find it for £16.99 on www.amazon.co.uk

CHARITY CROCHET

E mmas’ dais i es Earlier this year we told you about Emma Welch and her dedication to fundraising for Crochet treats Brain Tumour Research. Her story continues as, in her memory, 30,000 crochet flowers were installed at the These yarny slogan pencils from the aptly named Oh For Hook’s Sake store are our new Yeo Valley Organic Garden in Somerset. In June, the daisies favourite things. They’re like those named set a new world record for the ones we had at school but with a crochet largest number of single crocheted twist. Fab for jotting down hooky ideas and shopping lists alike. It’s just £5 for a set of five items on display. Emma’s mum in either maroon (pictured), natural wood or Lesley said, “It’s so important for us mixed. Visit www.ohforhookssake.etsy.com. to continue Emma’s legacy and we’re grateful to everyone who’s They also stock scrummy hand-dyed yarn.

PenCil you in

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helping us to do it.” To make a donation to Brain Tumour Research in memory of Emma, visit http://bit.ly/sc49emma

HOOKED

5 FAB FINDS Bump in the night Little creative treats for a hooky Halloween.

OFF TO THE CIRCUS If you want a challenge for the autumn, Stylecraft is hosting a new crochet-along with designer Sue Pinner. The Carousel CAL begins on 13th September at www. stylecraft-yarn.co.uk, and runs until November. Sue has taken inspiration from fairgrounds, carousels and the circus, translating Stylecraft’s bright yarns into this bold blanket. Perfect for intermediate crocheters, enjoy hooking interesting shapes, stitch combos and a colour changing ripple border. It’s a geometric feast for your hook! Visit the website for more info, including details of a special crochet workshop with Sue Pinner at Stylecraft’s mill on 13th October.

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GREET A BLACK CAT We don’t think this cute kitten could possibly bring you bad luck. The pattern’s from Simply Crochet issue 36. See p86 for back issues.

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OUT AT NIGHT Baking with the kids could be a fun way to celebrate. Go to www. kitchencraft.co.uk for cookie cutters.

out & about

miX it uP New from US spinners Cat Mountain Fiber Arts is this gorgeous Fusion 800 Marmalade (£40 per 212g skein) yarn. It’s a mash-up of eight different fibres including merino, bamboo, silk and mohair, which gives it a unique changing texture, from fluffy to silky smooth with glitter thrown in. As the name suggests, Marmalade is composed of shades of orange and brown, so if you want a yarn that encapsulates the colours of autumn, this is it. Find hand-dyed Fusion yarns at www.yarngalleryonline.com ur N o t yo ! ya r n l a u s u

Skills, shows & events 5-9 OCT The Knitting & Stitching Show, £14.50, Alexandra Palace, London www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com

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OH, GO ON THEN If you like your treats a little more sophisticated (or just plain boozy), this box of chocs ought to do it. Find it at www.hotel chocolat.com

8 OCT West Wales Wool Show, Free entry, Narberth, Pembrokeshire, www.westwaleswoolshow.weebly.com 14-16 OCT Christmas Craft Fair, £4.50, Breamore House, Hampshire, www.craftcarnival.co.uk 22 OCT Crochet ‘Lego’ Block Workshop, £15, Wool n Stuff, Wakefield, www.woolnstuff.co.uk

27-30 OCT Crafts for Christmas, £10, SECC, Glasgow, www.ichfevents.co.uk

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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STAR BAKER Why not dress your kitchen concoctions up for the occasion with this ghostly glitter cake topper? Pinterest perfect. Shop now at www. candleandcake.co.uk

PUMPKIN PATCH Autumn baby about to arrive? Welcome them to the fold with super-cute pumpkin bootees. Track down the pattern at www. meinuxing.etsy.com

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KNITTING & CROCHET

Fun DIY Amigurumi Kits QUOTE GETHOOOKED49 AND GET 15% OFF YOUR ONLINE ORDER! OFFER VALID UNTIL OCTOBER 16TH 2016 VISIT WWW.HOOOKED.CO.UK FOR MORE INFO

Get inspired. Be creative. Get Hoooked!

www.hoooked.co.uk

amigurumi ghost without closing off each round with a slip stitch. Place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work. HEAD Using White, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 8dc into loop. [8 sts] Round 2 2dc in each dc around. [16 sts] Round 3 (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 8 times. [24 sts] Round 4 (1dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc) 8 times. [32 sts] Rounds 5-12 Dc in each dc around.

Use you   ee k it o  r a i d yo u  st a h

Ghostly Gloria

Far too cute to be truly ghoulish, Gloria is only spooky on weekends. Designed by Sara Huntington. MEASUREMENTS EASY PEASY

13cm (5in) tall DK WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook

Get your Halloween craft on with our speedy friendly ghost. This gorgeous ghoul may be small but she’s full of personality. Hooks at the ready.

Safety eyes Toy stuffing Q Tapestry needle Q Stitch marker

The ghost is worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral

YOU WILL NEED Q

White DK yarn

Q Q

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ARMS Join White in front loop only of first skipped dc of one armhole. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in front loop only of same st and front loop of next 2 skipped sts, rotating ghost to work in the round, 2dc in front loop only of each of next 3 ch. [9 sts] Rounds 2-5 Dc in each dc around. Round 6 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 3 times. [6 sts] Round 7 Dc in each dc around. Lightly stuff the Arm. Round 8 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) twice. [4 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. Rep for second Arm.

NOTES

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Some overseas subscribers will have had this kit.

Psst

BODY Round 13 (Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) 8 times. [24 sts] Round 14 Dc in each dc around. Round 15 (make armholes) Dc in next 8 dc, ch3, skip 3 dc, dc in next 9 dc, ch3, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc. [18 dc and 2 ch-3 sps] Round 16 Dc in next 8 dc, dc in back loop only of next 3 ch, dc in next 9 dc, dc in back loop only of next 3 ch, dc in next dc. [24 sts] Rounds 17-21 Dc in each dc around. Place eyes 5 sts apart between Rounds 9 and 10. Stuff Head and upper Body firmly. Round 22 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 8 times. [16 sts] Rounds 23-25 Dc in each dc around. Round 26 (Dc2tog) 8 times. [8 sts] Rounds 27-29 Dc in each dc around. Lightly stuff the lower Body. Round 30 (Dc2tog) 4 times. [4 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends.

amigurumi bat EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

Black DK yarn

Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook

Safety eyes Toy stuffing Q Tapestry needle Q Stitch marker Q Small amount of black felt Q Q

MEASUREMENTS 13cm (5in) tall

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see p92

Bob’s a brilliant companion – he’s always got a unique perspective on things and is more than content just hanging out.

NOTES The bat is worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. Place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work.

BODY Round 16 (Dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [16 sts] Rounds 17-22 Dc in each dc around. Do not fasten off. Place eyes 6 sts apart between Rounds 10 and 11. Stuff Head and Body firmly. Press last Round of Body flat, making sure eyes are in centre of face. Work 8 ss across base of body to close, working each ss through both front and back of Body. Fasten off and weave in ends. 16 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Bob the bat New to amigurumi? Start simple. This little guy has tabs for feet so he can hold on tight. Designed by Sara Huntington. FEET

FIRST FOOT Working into the ss seam, join Black in the first st. Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st and next 2 sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked. [3 dc] Rows 2-9 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each dc across, turn. [3 sts] Fasten off leaving a long tail.

and a tapestry needle sew the last row to the ss seam to create a loop for hanging the bat upside down. EARS (MAKE 2) Using Black, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 11tr into loop, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [12 sts] Fasten off leaving a long tail. Position ears onto head using the image as a guide and sew to secure.

SECOND FOOT Skip next 2 sts on ss seam. Join Black in next st and rep Rows 1-9. Fasten off leaving a long tail. Fold each foot in half and using the long tail

WINGS Using black felt, cut out wings using the image as a guide. Glue or sew them in place onto head using the image as a guide and sew to secure.

Some overseas subscribers will have had this kit.

HEAD Using Black, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 8dc into loop. [8 sts] Round 2 2dc in each dc around. [16 sts] Round 3 (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 8 times. [24 sts] Rounds 4-11 Dc in each dc around. Round 12 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 8 times. [16 sts] Round 13 Dc in each dc around. Round14 (Dcinnext2sts,dc2tog)4times. [12 sts] Round 15 Dc in each dc around.

READER OFFER

Autumn fashion forecast e’re taking a rain check on the weather and getting blown away by White Stuff’s new season collections. Move over shorts, autumn is on its way! White Stuff’s key pieces for the new season are all about showcasing style. Denim at the office? Sure. Knitwear without sleeves? Why not? Faultlessly flattering peplums? Yes please! With modern silhouettes in a muted palette of navy, burgundy and khaki, this is the time to reinvent your staples and these classics are ready and waiting, whatever the weather.

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Fern Ribbed Coatigan £99.95, Florence Is Spot Jersey Tee £22.50.

Flying Cardi £65.

Silver Fox Jumper £55.

SPECIAL READER OFFER

All Simply Crochet readers can enjoy 15% off at White Stuff*. Olive Jacket £79.95, Czech it Out £39.95, Draftsman Trouser £55, Petra Crossbody Bag £49.95.

Women’s: Pair Perfec t Jumper £55, Tabby Bootcut Jean £49.95; Men’s Pu lar Merino Rib Crew Knit £65, Whiskey Straight Cu t Jean £49.95.

To claim your discount, take this page to your local shop or go to

www.whitestuff.com/crochet to receive an offer code to use online.

Valid until 31st October 2016. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other ofer or in White Stuf outlet shops and concessions. Ofer applies to full-price items only. Cannot be used to buy gift cards and charity items.

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NEON IDEAS

Neon, fur, pompoms and colourwork – this playful, brighter-than-bright collection is sure to get you noticed.

FlaShy FinGers Wearing gloves with super powers may seem a little futuristic, but this month at least you can have hours of fun pretending with our fab mitts! All we ask is that you zap away those rainy days and grey weekends. Kapow!

Cosy Glow Take outit prep to a new level of pep with oodles of pow factor. Our zingy bright collar complete with cutesy bobbles will certainly get you noticed, day, night or total blackout!

NEON IDEAS

AgeNt OraNge Hot-of-the-hook hats simply don’t get any cooler than this. Worked irst in an unassuming grey, this head warmer hits the highest of high notes with a neon orange lining that’ll have you singing for your shades.

Lumo LegWaRmeRs Make sure all eyes are on your dancing feet with our look-at-me legwarmers. Worked on a slate grey background, their happy-go-go lucky patterns are bound to help you get your luoro footloose on! WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 21

NEON IDEAS

DiaMond DazZler Pack your personals away with pizazz when your hanging with our super-bold shoulder bag. Complete with a long strap and pompom cluster, this bag has just enough space for your WIP.

ZigZag ZinGer Add zing to your zigzags. Don’t you think those blazing dashes on the ends of this ribbed scarf look like lashing neon lights? This is cosiness and colour without compromise. 22 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

NEON IDEAS

twice, yrh and draw through all loops on hook.

NOTES

Ziggy Mittens Designer Emma Friedlander-Collins says, “Bold and awesome, these mittens are totally electrifying!” She’s not wrong. The chart for this pattern is on page 93. Q Caron Simply Soft Heathers (100% acrylic,

141.7g/228m), 1 ball of Yarn A Charcoal Heather (9508) Q Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170g/288m), 1 ball of each: Yarn B Neon Pink (9775) Yarn C Neon Yellow (9773) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook Q 2 stitch markers

TENSION 18 sts and 24 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over htr worked in the round using a 5mm hook

MEASUREMENTS 19cm (7½in) from fingertip to wrist For a smaller size, take out Round 20

The mittens start with a foundationless chain which gives slightly more elasticity to the wrist, but you can always use a chain st and a round of dc sts if you prefer. This pattern uses a mix of Tapestry and Fair Isle colour-change techniques for the lightning strikes. For best results, use Tapestry Crochet with Yarn A, working over Yarn A when not using it, but only picking up Yarns B & C when required for the colour change and leave the stranded threads exposed on the inside of the mitten. To change colour, when working the last yarn round hook of your st, change to the new colour, yarn round hook with new colour and pull through the last 2 loops on your hook. Ch2 at the beg of each round counts as a st throughout. LEFT MITTEN Use Yarn A and 5mm hook. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as ftr), ftr in first ch, (ftr in prev ftr) 24 times, ss to top of first ftr to make a loop. [26 ftr] Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [26 sts] Rounds 3-8 Ch2 (not counted as st), FPtr in st at base of ch-2, BPtr in next st, *FPtr in next st, BPtr in next st; rep from * to end, ss to top of first FPtr. [26 sts] Round 9 Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-2. [26 sts] Round 10 Ch2, 2htr in next st, htr in each st to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [27 sts] Round 11 Ch2, 2htr in next st, htr in each of next 7 sts, place marker, using Yarn B htr in next st, using Yarn A htr in each of next 10 sts, place marker, htr in each st to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [28 sts]

ABBREVIATIONS Foundation treble crochet (ftr) Insert the hook into the st to be worked, yrh, and draw the yarn through as for a normal tr st. Now work an extra ‘ch1’ by putting yrh and drawing yarn through first loop on hook. Complete as for a normal treble st. The next st will be worked into the ch-1 of the previous st, adding the extra ch1 if you are continuing in foundation treble. Half treble 2 sts together (htr2tog) (Yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop) 24 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

PLACE CHART See the Charts on p93. On the Charts, each square represents 1 htr st. Read all rows from right to left. The first row of the Chart for Round 11 has already been worked. The markers placed on Round 11 set the positioning of the Left Mitten Chart. For each subsequent round, move the st markers up and work the corresponding numbered row of the Chart on the 11 stitches between the markers.

Rounds 12-18 Ch2, 2htr in next st, htr in each st to marker, work corresponding row of Chart, htr in each st to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [35 sts after Round 18] Round 19 Ch2 (counts as 2 ch), skip next 10 sts, ss in next st, ch2 (counts as htr), htr in each st to marker, work corresponding row of Chart, htr in each st to end, htr in each of first 2 ch, ss to top of next ch-2. This is now the beg of the round. [26 sts] Rounds 20-28 Ch2, htr in each st to marker, work corresponding row of Chart, htr each st to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [26 sts] Round 29 Ch2, htr in each st to marker, work corresponding row of Chart, htr in each of next 3 sts, htr2tog, htr in each st to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [25 sts] Round 30 Ch2, htr in each st to marker, htr2tog, htr in each of next 3 sts, using Yarn B htr in each of next 2 sts, using Yarn C htr in each of next 4 sts, using Yarn A htr in each of next 3 sts, htr2tog, htr in each st to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [23 sts] Round 31 Ch2, htr in each st to 1 st before marker, htr2tog, htr in each of next 3 sts, using Yarn B htr in each of next 2 sts, using Yarn C htr in each of next 4 sts, using Yarn A htr in each of next 3 sts, htr2tog, htr in each st to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. Fasten off and weave in ends. [21 sts]

RIGHT MITTEN Rounds 1-10 Work as given for Left Mitten. Round 11 Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr in each of next 6 sts, place marker, htr in each of next 10 sts, using Yarn B htr in next st, place marker, using Yarn A htr in each of next 8 sts, 2htr in last st, ss to top of beg ch-2. [28 sts] The markers placed on Round 11 set the positioning of the Right Mitten Chart (see p93). For each subsequent round, move the stitch markers up and work the corresponding numbered row of the Chart, reading from right to left, on the 11 sts between the markers. Round 12-18 Ch2, htr in each st to marker, work corresponding row of Chart over next 11 sts, using Yarn A htr in each st to last st, 2htr in last st, ss to top of beg ch-2. [35 sts after Round 18] Fasten off Yarn A, go to second st marker, skip 4 sts to the left of the second st marker and re-join Yarn A to 5th st. Round 19 Ch2 (counts as 2 ch), skip next 10 sts, ss in next st, ch2 (counts as htr), htr in each st to marker, work corresponding row of Chart, using Yarn A htr each of next

4 sts, htr in each of first 2 ch, ss to top of next ch-2. [26 sts] Rounds 20-28 Ch2, htr in each st to marker, work corresponding row of Chart, using Yarn A htr in each st to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [26 sts] Round 29 Ch2, htr in each of next 3 sts, htr2tog, htr in each st to marker, work corresponding row of Chart, using Yarn A htr in each st to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [25 sts] Round 30 Ch2, htr in each of next 2 sts, htr2tog, htr in each st to marker, using Yarn C htr in each of next 4 sts, using Yarn B htr in each of next 2 sts, using Yarn A htr in each of next 3 sts, htr2tog, htr in each st to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [23 sts] Round 31 Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st to marker, using Yarn C htr in next 4 sts, using Yarn B htr in next 2 sts, using Yarn A htr in each of next 3 sts, htr2tog, htr in each st to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. Fasten off. [21 sts] THUMBS Using Yarn A, join with ss to edge of thumb hole. Round 1 Ch2 (counts as st throughout), htr in each st around, htr in each of 2 ch from Round 19, ss to top of beg ch-2. [12 sts] Rounds 2-5 Ch2, htr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-2. Round 6 (Htr2tog) around, ss to top of first htr2tog. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Using Yarn A, gather the sts of the top of thumb and mitten.

Bomber jacket Flip to page 31 for a striking Tunisian crochet jacket by Simone Francis.

Brave Trapper hat Ear flaps and furry details make Anne Egan’s topper a cosy must-have. Q Caron Simply Soft Heathers

(100% acrylic, 141.7g/228m), 1 ball of Charcoal Heather (9508) Q Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170g/288m), 1 ball of Neon Orange (9774) Q King Cole Moments (100% polyester, 50g/90m), 1 ball of Orange (487) Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook Q 2 x 2.5cm (1in) Dark grey buttons Q 2 stitch markers

an electric orange fur trim. The outer hat (in Charcoal Heather) is made using a larger hook and is put tog slightly differently to emphasise the seams. To give the ear flaps more structure, ch2 at the beg of the row counts as first tr. INNER HAT Use Neon Orange throughout and 4.5mm hook.

CENTRAL PANEL Row 1 (WS) Ch3 (counts as ftr), ftr in first ch, (ftr in prev ftr) 15 times, turn. [17 ftr] Row 2 Ch2, (counts as tr throughout), tr in each st to end working last tr in top of beg ch-2, turn. [17 sts] Rows 3-26 As Row 2. Fasten off.

MEASUREMENTS To fit head circumference approx 57cm (22½in)

ABBREVIATIONS Foundation treble crochet (ftr) See Ziggy Mittens on p22. Front Post double treble (FPdtr) Yrh twice, starting from the front, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of st in row below, complete as a double treble st.

NOTES The hat is double layered for warmth, with Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

SIDE PANEL (MAKE 2) Row 1 (WS) Ch3 (counts as ftr), ftr in first ch, (ftr in prev ftr) 25 times, turn. [27 ftr] Rows 2-3 Ch2 (counts as tr throughout), tr in each st to end, working last tr in top of beg ch-2, turn. [27 sts] Row 4 Ch2, tr in each st to end, skip beg ch-2, turn. [26 sts] Row 5 As Row 4. [25 sts] Row 6 Ch2, tr2tog, tr in each of next 19 sts, tr2tog over last 2 tr, skip beg ch-2, turn. [22 sts] Row 7 Ch1 (not counted as st), skip tr2tog, WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 25

edge of the Side Panels. The front of the Cap is at Row 26 of the Central Panel. Using stitch markers, mark the 6th ftr in both Side Panels counting from the front.

BACK OF CAP With WS facing join yarn around the post of the ftr at a marker. Row 1 Ch4 (counts as FPdtr), FPdtr around post of next 19ftr to first seam, 2tr in the seam, FPdtr around post of next 15ftr to second seam, 2tr in the seam, FPdtr around post of next 20ftr to second marker, turn. [55 FPdtr, 4 tr] Cont from Row 2 as for Inner Hat, including Ear Flaps.

FRONT FLAP dc2tog, dc in each of next 16 sts, dc2tog over last tr and tr2tog, skip beg ch-2. [18 sts] Fasten off. Pin RS tog along curved edge of Side Panel and long edge of Central Panel. Using Neon Orange, sew both Side Panels in place catching only a little of the panels either side of the seam so they lie flat. Also make sure the short ends of the Central Panel line up squarely with the straight edge of the Side Panels. Weave in ends and turn RS out. The front of the Cap is at Row 26 of the Central Panel. Using stitch markers, mark 7th ftr in both Side Panels counting from the front.

BACK OF CAP With WS facing and back of Cap at top, join yarn at right marker. Row 1 (WS) Ch2, (tr in next ftr) around back of Cap to second marker, turn. [59 tr] Rows 2-7 Ch2, tr in each st to end working last tr in top of beg ch-2, turn. Do not fasten off.

EAR FLAP 1 Row 1 (RS) Ch2, tr in each of next 16 sts, tr2tog, turn. [18 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (not counted as st), skip tr2tog, htr in next st, tr in each st to end working last tr in top of beg ch-2, turn. [17 sts] Row 3 Ch2, tr in each of next 13 sts, tr2tog, skip next st, turn. [15 sts] Row 4 As Row 2. [14 sts] Row 5 Ch2, tr in each st to end, turn. [14 sts] Rows 6-8 As Row 5. Row 9 Ch1 (not counted as st), skip first st, htr in next st, tr in each of next 10 sts, 26 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

tr2tog over last tr and top of beg ch-2, turn. [12 sts] Row 10 Ch1 (not counted as st), skip tr2tog, tr in each of next 7 sts, htr in next st, ss in next st. Fasten off and weave in ends.

EAR FLAP 2 With RS facing, skip 21 stitches from end of Row 1 of Ear Flap 1 and join yarn with ss to next st. Row 1 (RS) Ch1, htr in next st, tr in each st to end, working last tr in top of beg ch-2, turn. [18 sts] Row 2 Ch2, tr in each of next 15 sts, tr2tog, turn. [17 sts] Row 3 Ch1 (not counted as a st), skip tr2tog, htr in next st, tr in each of next 15 sts, turn. [16 sts] Row 4 Ch2, tr in each of next 13 sts, tr2tog, turn. [15 sts] Row 5 Ch2, tr in each st to end, turn. [14 sts] Rows 6-8 As Row 5. Row 9 Ch2, tr2tog, tr in each of next 9 sts, htr in next st, skip beg ch-2, turn. [12 sts] Row 10 Ch1 (not counted as st), skip next htr, ss in next st, htr in next st, tr in each of next 7 sts, ch1, skip tr2tog, ss to top of beg ch-2. Fasten off and weave in ends. OUTER HAT Use Charcoal Heather throughout and 5mm hook. Make Central Panel and side panels as for inner hat. Pin WS tog along curved edge of Side Panel and long edge of Central Panel. Dc evenly along seams of both Side Panels making sure the short ends of the Central Panel line up squarely with the straight

Using Charcoal Heather and 5mm hook Row 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as ftr), ftr in first ch, (ftr in prev ftr) 25 times, turn. [27 ftr] Row 2 Ch2, tr in each st to end, working last tr in top of beg ch-2, turn. [27 sts] Rows 3-5 As Row 2. Row 6 Ch1 (not counted as st), skip first tr, htr in next tr, tr in each of next 23 tr, tr2tog, turn. [25 sts] Row 7 Ch1, skip tr2tog, htr in next tr, tr in each of next 20 sts, htr in next st, ss in next st, skip last st. Fasten off and weave in ends. Using Orange King Cole Moments and 5mm hook. Row 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as ftr), ftr in first ch, (ftr in prev ftr) 27 times, turn. [29 ftr] Row 2 Ch2, tr in each st to end, working last tr in top of beg ch-2, turn. [29 sts] Rows 3-6 As Row 2. Row 7 Ch1 (not counted as st), skip first st, htr in next st, tr in each of next 25 sts, tr2tog, turn. [27 sts] Row 8 Ch1 (not counted as st), skip tr2tog, htr in next st, tr in next 22 sts, htr in next st, ss in next st. Do not fasten off. With WS tog and the Charcoal Heather front flap facing, dc evenly around working through both flaps to join the 2 pieces tog, easing in the sts of the size differences as you go. TO FINISH With WS tog place Orange Neon Cap inside Charcoal Heather Cap. Line up the seams and match edges, easing in the sts. Pin around edges. Pin Cap front flap in place (use image as a guide). Using Orange King Cole Moments and

NEON IDEAS

5mm hook, dc evenly around outside of Cap working through both outer and inner Cap and fixing Front Flap in place as you go, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. Attach 2 buttons to front of Cap behind Front Flap and use the gaps between sts on front flap as button holes.

Luminous legwarmers These neon tapestry crochet numbers are sure to put some pep in your step. Designed by Hannah Cross. Q Caron Simply Soft Heathers (100% acrylic,

141.7g/228m), 2 balls of Yarn A Charcoal Heather (9508) Q Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170g/288m), 1 ball of each: Yarn B Neon Coral (9772) Yarn C Neon Yellow (9773) Yarn D Neon Orange (9774) Q A 5.5mm (US I/9) hook

TENSION 17 sts and 15 rows to meas 10x10cm (4x4in) over dc in back loop only, using a 5.5mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Small/Medium 48cm (19in) long, 32cm (12½in) circumference around top and 24cm (9½in) circumference around the ankle (Medium/Large) 55cm (21¾) long, 38cm (15in) circumference around top and 25cm (10in) circumference around the ankle

CENTRAL SECTION Using Yarn A, ch41 (51), taking care not to twist the ch, ss to first ch to join into ring. [40 (50) sts] Round 1 (RS) Ch1, dcbl in each st to end, ss to first dc. [40 (50) sts] Rep Round 1, following the Chart on p93. On the Chart, each square represents one dc st. Read all rows from right to left. For size Small/Medium, work sts 1-40 on each row, and for Medium/Large, work sts 1-40 and then rep sts 11-20, as this will cont the patt rep for the earlier and later rows. For size Small/Medium, follow the Chart from Rows 1-49. For the Medium/Large size, work Rows 1-39, rep Rows 12-17, rep Rows 24-27, then work Rows 40-49. This will give you a total of 59 rows for the Medium/Large size over this section. Fasten off and weave in ends.

rows for cuff). Row 31(37) As Row 2. Fasten off and sew cuff seam.

BOTTOM CUFF Cont in Yarn A for bottom cuff, working in rows. Using Yarn A, ch9. Row 1 (RS) Ss in bl of second ch from hook and in each ch along, ss in next st of last round of central section (last ss is not counted as a st throughout), turn. [8 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (not counted as st throughout), ss in bl of each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch1, ss in bl of each st to end, ss in next st of last round of central section, turn. Rows 4-30(36) Rep Rows 2&3 but skip next and every 4th(3rd) st of last round of central section (this will give you 30(36)

Brightest bag

TOP CUFF Using Yarn A, join to first st of Round 1 of central section, ch15. Row 1 (RS) Ss in bl of second ch from hook and in each ch along, ss in next st of last round of central section (last ss is not counted as a st throughout), turn. [14 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (not counted as a st throughout), ss in bl of each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch1, ss in bl of each st to end, ss in next st of last round of central section, turn. Row 4 As Row 2. Rows 5-40(50) Rep Rows 3&4. Fasten off and sew cuff seam.

Louise Smith’s crossbody colourwork bag has fuzzy pompoms and a lining that cannot be outshone. Get hooking. Q Caron Simply Soft Heathers

(100% acrylic, 141.7g/228m), 1 ball of Yarn A Charcoal Heather (9508) Q Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170g/288m), 1 ball of each: Yarn B Neon Coral (9772) Yarn C Neon Yellow (9773) Yarn D Neon Orange (9774) Q King Cole Moments (100% polyester, 50g/90m), 1 ball of Yarn E Lime (489)

NOTES Approx 30g only of each balls of Yarns B, C and D are required. The central section of the leg warmers is made first then the cuffs are added on afterwards. Ch1 at the beg of rows does not count as a st throughout. When changing colours over the central section, use the Tapestry Crochet technique. Hold the yarn not being used across the top of the work (in line with the row being worked) and crochet over the yarn to trap it within the sts and carry it along the work. Change colour in the last yrh of the prev st and twist the 2 ends of yarn tog to avoid making a hole in the work. Work in the back loops only (bl) of each st throughout. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 27

NEON IDEAS

Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook Q A key ring

MEASUREMENTS 21x24cm (8¼x9½in)

NOTES The strap runs around the bag, making up the sides and base. Ch1 at beg of row does not count as a st throughout. FRONT FLAP Using Yarn A, ch36. Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in second ch from hook, dc in each ch to end, turn. [35 sts] Continue in dc and follow Front Flap Chart on p93, working Rows 2-19 twice before working the final row. Each square on the Chart represents 1dc stitch. Refer to the information on Tapestry Crochet in the Notes section of the Legwarmers. Start from the bottom left corner of the Chart (Row 2) and work WS (even numbered) rows from left to right and RS (odd numbered) rows from right to left. Row 39 Using Yarn A, ch1, dc in each st to end. Fasten off and weave in ends. With RS facing, rejoin Yarn A to bottomright corner using ss. You will be working along the right-hand side of the charted panel.

Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc39 evenly along edge of panel, turn. [39 sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each of the next 35 sts, (dc2tog) twice, turn. [37 sts] Row 3 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 4 Ch1, dc in each of the next 33 sts, (dc2tog) twice, turn. [35 sts] Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 6 Ch1, dc in each of the next 31 sts, (dc2tog) twice. [33 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. With RS facing, rejoin Yarn A to top-left corner using ss. You will be working along the left-hand side of the charted panel. Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc39 evenly along edge of panel, turn. [39 sts] Row 2 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each st to end, turn. [37 sts] Row 3 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 4 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each st to end, turn. [35 sts] Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 6 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each st to end. [33 sts] Ss evenly around edge. Fasten off and weave in ends. FLAP LINING Using Yarn B, ch42. Row 1 Ch1, dc in second ch from hook, dc in each ch to end, turn. [41 sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rep Row 2 another 32 times. Row 35 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each of next 33 sts, (dc2tog) twice, turn. [37 sts] Row 36 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 37 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each of next 29 sts, (dc2tog) twice, turn. [33 sts] Row 38 Ch1, dc in each st to the end, turn. Row 39 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each of next 25 sts, (dc2tog) twice. [29 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. FRONT AND BACK PANEL (MAKE 2) Using Yarn A, ch42. Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc in second ch from hook, dc in each ch to end, turn. [41 sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rep Row 2 another 28 times. Row 31 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each of next 33 sts, (dc2tog) twice, turn. [37 sts] Row 32 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 33 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each of next 29 sts, (dc2tog) twice, turn. [33 sts] Row 34 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 35 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each of next 25 sts, (dc2tog) twice. [29 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends.

28 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

LINING PANELS (MAKE 2) Using Yarn C, ch40. Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc in second ch from hook, dc in each ch to end, turn. [39 sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Repeat Row 2 another 27 times. Row 30 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each of next 31 sts, (dc2tog) twice, turn. [35 sts] Row 31 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 32 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each of next 27 sts, (dc2tog) twice, turn. [31 sts] Row 33 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 34 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each of next 23 sts, (dc2tog) twice. [27 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. LINING SIDE AND BASE Using Yarn C, ch5. Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc in second ch from hook, dc in each ch to end, turn. [4 sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rep Row 2 another 96 times. Fasten off and weave in ends. STRAP Using Yarn D, ch7. Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc in second ch from hook, dc in each ch to end, turn. [6 dc] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rep Row 2 until Strap meas approx 200cm (78¾in). Join both ends using ss. Fasten off and weave in ends. BAG CHARM Using Yarn C and Yarn E held tog, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1, 6dc into loop, ss to first dc to join. [6 sts] Round 2 Ch1, 2dc in each st around, ss to first dc. [12 sts] Rounds 3-4 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc. Round 5 Ch1, (dc2tog) around, ss to first dc. [6 sts] Round 6 Ch1, (dc2tog) around, ss to first dc. [3 sts] For shortest charm: Ch4, join to key ring using ss, rotate, dc in each of next 4 ch, ss in dc at base of ch. Fasten off and thread yarn tail through last 3 dc on Round 6. Weave both yarn ends into centre of charm to act as stuffing. For medium charm: Ch6, join to key ring using ss, rotate, dc in each of next 6 ch, ss in dc at base of ch. Fasten off and thread yarn tail through

NEON IDEAS

Yarn C Neon Yellow (9773) Yarn D Neon Orange (9774) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook

MEASUREMENTS 220x17cm (86¾x6¾in)

NOTES The main scarf is worked in long rows and the bottom edges are worked in short rows picking up sts along bottom edges. Only small quantities of Neon Yellow, Neon Coral and Neon Orange are required. Row 2 and every alternate row on main scarf are worked in back loops only. The end panels are worked in Tapestry Crochet Technique to create a woven effect. Refer to the information on Tapestry Crochet in the Notes section of the Legwarmers. When working the chart, start from the bottom right corner and work RS (odd numbered) rows from right to left and WS (even numbered) rows from left to right. MAIN SCARF Using Charcoal, ch281. Row 1 (WS) Htr in third ch from hook (skipped 2ch counts as htr), htr in each ch to end, turn. [280 sts] Row 2 (RS) Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), skip st at base of beg ch-2, working in back loop only; htr in each st to last st, htr in second of beg ch-2 from prev row, turn. Row 3 Ch2, skip st at base of beg ch-2, htr into each st to last st, htr in second of beg ch-2 from prev row, turn. Rep Rows 2 & 3 until work meas 17cm (6¾in). Fasten off. last 3 dc on Round 6. Weave both yarn ends into centre of charm to act as stuffing. For longest charm: Ch8, join to key ring using ss, rotate, dc in each of next 8 ch, ss in dc at base of ch. Fasten off and thread yarn tail through last 3 dc on Round 6. Weave both yarn ends into centre of charm to act as stuffing. TO FINISH Using Yarn C, join one Lining Panel to long edge of Lining Side and Base using preferred method. Rep with other Lining Panel. Align Front Flap and Flap Lining WS tog and join using Yarn A and preferred method. Using Yarn A, join the straight edge of the Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Front Flap just made to top of Back Panel. Join Strap around edge of Back Panel. Join Front Panel to edge of Strap, lining up with Back Panel. Insert Lining and using Yarn A, join to top of Front Panel, Back Panel, and where Panels meet Straps. Attach Bag Charm to either side of Bag.

Super Strobe scarf The main body of Sara Huntington’s scarf has a ribbed texture and the ends are highlighted with strokes of colour. Q Caron Simply Soft

(100% acrylic, 170g, 288m), 5 balls of Yarn A Charcoal Heather (9508), 1 ball of each: Yarn B Neon Coral (9772),

END PANEL (MAKE 2) The end panels are worked in the Tapestry Crochet technique. Row 1 (RS) *Using Charcoal, with RS facing, dc 27 sts evenly along one of the short edges of the scarf, turn. [27 sts] Working in rows, follow the chart for Rows 2-26 changing colour as indicated. Fasten off and weave in ends. Rep from * for other end.

YARN STOCKISTS LoveCrochet 0845 544 2196 www.lovecrochet.com King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 29

reative with YEOMAN YARNS

Our great summer cotton and linen range has been a big hit! For autumn we stock another great range of merinos and blends, so here’s a list of main plies and products, but the full range you can find on-line, or on receipt of a catalogue or cards.

yeoman-yarns.co.uk NEW! Sugar Cane DK, “eco-green”, soft, clear colours, & thermo-reactive. 13 shades including printed tonals.

Cashmere Blend (new!) Cashmix Sublime ine 2 ply 90 merino/10 cashmere 6 shades [250gr/2400m]

Pure Merinos DK Merino Sport 35 shades [50gr/125m] Sport 4 ply 40 shades [100gr/400m] Polo 1 ply 38 shades [50gr/750m]

Merino & wool blends Volga 3 ply 50 new wool/50 ac 28 shades [50 gr/355m] Felting pure wool 1 ply 15 shades [50gr/750m] Kajam alpaca blend Aran 14 shades [100gr/150m]

Mohairs/fancies/silk blends Boucles, tweeds, crepes, brushed mohairs etc. many colours, many options

Lurex Manila 2 ply 10 shades [50gr/600m] Angelina 4 ply Lurex ribbon 5 shades [100gr/300m] Starlight 3 shades [100gr/300m] Fine Lurex blending 16 shades [50gr/1100m]

Acrylic Cashmilon 4 ply 36 shades [500gr/2000m] Softly softly 1 ply acrylic 2/30 in 33 shades [500gr/7500m] Supersheen 1 ply bright shiny acrylic 38 shades [500g/7500m] We indicate metrage so risk-free substitution is easy. All our prices include p&p on orders over £25 so no nasty hidden extras! Catalogues Individual cards-up to 5-are Free! Just call or email with address and which cards you want. Comprehensive Catalogues; hand knitting £4.50. Machine knitting £5.95. Both for £9.50

YEOMAN YARNS Ltd Kibworth, Leics LE8 0RX Tel: 0116 240 4464 E: [email protected] W: www.yeoman-yarns.co.uk

Da bomb diggity Hook this cosy Tunisian crochet bomber jacket. By Simone Francis.

Tunisian jack t This flattering, zip-up bomber jacket has fluffy pompom details, zipped pockets and a detachable fur collar. It’s not for the fainthearted but it’s the bomb, basically.

GO PRO ARAN WEIGHT

6MM, 7MM

NOTES The Jacket is worked in Tunisian Crochet pieces from the bottom up and sewn tog. A detachable fur collar in standard crochet is added by sewing buttons onto the inner neckline of the jacket. As a guide, the open-ended zip should be 10cm (4in) shorter than total length of garment to run from the hem to the base of the collar at the Front Neck. Measure finished garment to determine the zip length needed.

YOU WILL NEED Q Caron Simply Soft

(100% acrylic, 141.7g/228m), Yarn A Charcoal Heather (9508) Q King Cole Moments (100% polyester, 50g/90m), Yarn B Lipstick (488) For measurements and yarn quantities see table Q Small amount of Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 170g/288m), Yarn C Neon Coral (9772) Q A 6mm (US J/10) Tunisian hook Q A 7mm (US K/10½ or L11) Tunisian hook Q A 5.5mm (US I/9) standard hook Q Open-ended zip (see Notes) Q 2 closed end zips 10cm (4in) Q 7 buttons 1.5cm (½in) Q Stitch marker Q Pompom maker (small) Q Tapestry needle Q Sewing needle For yarn stockists contact LoveCrochet 0845 544 2196 www.lovecrochet.com King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com

TUNISIAN CROCHET Each Row of Tunisian Crochet is made up of a Forward Pass (FwdP) and Return Pass (RetP). You do not turn the work unless otherwise stated.

TUNISIAN SIMPLE STITCH (TSS) Forward Pass (FwdP) Loop on hook counts as first st, do not work into the vertical bar on edge of work. *With yarn at back, insert hook from side to side behind next vertical bar, yrh and pull up loop and leave loop on hook (1 st complete); rep from * until last vertical bar at edge, insert hook under vertical bar and loop on outside edge, pull up loop. Return Pass (RetP) Yrh and draw through first loop on hook, *yrh and draw through 2 loops on hook; rep from * until 1 loop remains on hook. Make a standard return pass on all rows unless working a cast off. When making a return pass after casting sts off, pull through 2 loops at all times on

TENSION 10.5 sts and 13 rows in Tunisian Knit Stitch and Yarn A meas 10x10cm (4x4in), using a 7mm hook or size needed to achieve stated tension

the first return st. Tss2tog (Tunisian Simple Stitch 2 sts together) With yarn at back, insert hook from side to side behind next two vertical bars, yrh and pull up loop and leave loop on hook.

TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH (TKS) Forward Pass (FwdP) Loop on hook counts as first st, do not work into the vertical bar on edge of work. *With yarn at back, insert hook from front to back through your fabric, immediately to the right of the next vertical bar. You will see that each vertical bar is the front strand of a loop which has both front and back strands, and you should insert the hook into this loop, between the front and back strands. Yrh and pull up loop and leave loop on hook; rep from * until last vertical bar at edge, insert hook under vertical bar and loop on outside edge, pull up loop. Return Pass (RetP) Work as for RetP explained above. Tksinc (2 Tks sts in the same stitch) To work 2 Tks sts in the next st, insert your hook into the space between the st you have just worked and the next one, yrh and pull up a loop. Then work a Tks st in the next st as above. Where working an increase at the beg of a row, you will need to insert the hook between the st on the right hand edge of work and the next st. Tks2tog Insert hook from side to side behind vertical bar of next st and then insert hook into foll st as for a Tks, yrh, pull through 2 loops, 1 loop on hook made.

TUNISIAN PURL STITCH (TPS) Forward Pass (FwdP) Loop on hook

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

SIZE TO FIT BUST

FRONT

a

ACTUAL BUST c

LENGTH

b a: 47 (45: 47: 44: 45: 45)cm 18½ (17¾: 18½: 17¼: 17¾: 17¾)in b: 43 (48: 50.5: 54: 58: 62)cm 16¾ (18¼: 19¾: 21¼: 22¾: 24¼)in c: 64 (66: 66.5: 67: 69: 70)cm 25¼ (25: 26¼: 26½: 27: 27½)in 32 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

SLEEVE LENGTH

8

10

12

14

16-18

20-22

cm

81

86

91

97

102-107

112-117

in

32

34

36

38

40-42

44-46

cm

86

93

101

108

116

124

in

33¾

36¾

39¾

42¾

45¾

48¾

cm

64

66

66.5

67

69

70

in

25¼

25

26¼

26½

27

27½

cm

47

45

47

44

45

45

in

18½

17¾

18½

17¼

17¾

17¾

YARN A

141.7g

5

5

6

6

7

7

YARN B

50g

1

1

2

2

2

2

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.

Tunisian jack t counts as first st, do not work into the vertical bar on edge of work. *With yarn at the front, insert hook from side to side behind next vertical bar, yrh and pull up loop and leave loop on hook (1 st complete); rep from * until last vertical bar at edge, insert hook under vertical bar and loop on outside edge, pull up loop. Return Pass (RetP) Work as for RetP explained above. Tps2tog With yarn at front of work, insert hook though the vertical bars of the following 2 sts, yrh, pull through both loops. Cast off Knitwise Insert hook into st as if to carry out a Tks, yrh, pull loop through 2 loops on hook. After foundation ch is worked, pull up a loop in the back loops of each ch to create a neat edge. BACK With Yarn A, a 7mm hook and an even tension, ch45(49: 53: 57: 61: 65). Foundation row (RS) Pull up a loop in the second ch from hook, and in each ch to end; RetP. [45(49: 53: 57: 61: 65) sts] Rows 1-49 Tks to end; RetP. SHAPE ARMHOLES Row 1 Cast off 5(5: 5: 5: 6: 6) sts knitwise, Tks to end, keeping loops on hook, cast off 5(5: 5: 5: 6: 6) sts as follows: turn work so that wrong side is facing, place first loop onto a spare hook, yarn at back, place spare hook through second loop on main hook, yrh, pull through both loops, removing second loop from hook, rep until correct amount of sts have been cast off. Turn work and make a Return pass, working through 2 loops to end. [35(39: 43: 47: 49: 53) sts] Row 2 Tks to end; RetP. Row 3 1 loop on hook, Tks2tog, Tks to last 3 sts, Tks2tog, Tks in last st; RetP. [33(37: 41: 45: 47: 51) sts] Rep the last row 0(1: 2: 2: 2: 3) more times. [33(35: 37: 41: 43: 45) sts] Work 25(26: 26: 27: 29: 29) rows in Tks.

Cast off rem sts knitwise.

LEFT SHOULDER Row 1 Rejoin yarn to marked st, cast off 15(17: 17: 17: 19: 19) sts knitwise, 1 loop on hook, Tks 8(8: 9: 11: 11: 12) sts, turn work, cast off 3(3: 3: 3: 3: 4) sts, turn work; RetP through 2 loops to end. Row 2 1 loop on hook, Tks 5(5: 6: 8: 8: 8) sts, turn work, cast off 2(2: 3: 3: 3: 3) sts, turn work; RetP through 2 loops to end. [4(4: 4: 6: 6: 6) sts] Cast off rem sts knitwise.

SHAPE SHOULDERS

RIGHT SHOULDER

LEFT FRONT

Row 1 1 loop on hook, cast off 3(3: 3: 3: 3: 4) sts knitwise, Tks 5(5: 6: 8: 8: 8) sts, place marker into foll st; RetP. [6(6: 7: 9: 9: 9) sts] Row 2 1 loop on hook, cast off 2(2: 3: 3: 3: 3) sts knitwise, Tks 3(3: 3: 5: 5: 5) sts; RetP. [4(4: 4: 4: 6: 6) sts]

With Yarn A, a 7mm hook and an even tension, ch6. Foundation Row Pull up a loop in the second ch from hook and in each ch to end; RetP.

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Rows 1-5 Tks to end; RetP. Do not fasten off.

LOWER TAB

LOWER EDGE 1 loop on hook, ch17(19: 21: 23: 25: 27), pull up a loop in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, pull up a loop in 6 sts from Lower Tab; RetP. [23(25: 27: 29: 31: 33) sts] Work 8 Rows in Tks. DIVIDE FOR POCKETS

POCKET PIECE 1 Row 1 1 loop on hook, Tks 7(9: 11: 13: 15: 17), place marker into next st; RetP. [8(10: 12: 14: 16: 18) sts] Work 15 rows in Tks on these 8(10: 12: 14: 16: 18) sts only. Place marker into st loop to hold st.

POCKET PIECE 2 With a new ball of yarn, rejoin to marked st WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 33

Tunisian jack t at Row 1 of Pocket Piece 1, Tks rem 15 sts. Work 15 rows in Tks on these 15 sts only. Fasten off yarn. Return hook to marked loop, 1 loop on hook, Tks sts from Pocket Piece 1, Tks sts from Pocket Piece 2 (knot yarn to secure at join between pocket pieces); RetP. [23(25: 27: 29: 31: 33) sts] Work 24 rows in Tks. SHAPE ARMHOLES Row 1 Cast off 5(5: 5: 5: 6: 6) sts knitwise, Tks to end; RetP. [18(20: 22: 24: 25: 27) sts] Row 2 Tks to end; RetP. Row 3 1 loop on hook, Tks2tog, Tks to end; RetP. [17(19: 21: 23: 24: 26) sts] Rep last row 0(1: 2: 2: 2: 3) times. [17(18: 19: 21: 22: 23) sts] Work 15(16: 16: 17: 19: 19) rows in Tks. SHAPE NECKLINE Row 1 Tks all sts, turn work, cast off 5(5: 5: 5: 6: 6) sts, turn work; RetP through 2 loops to end. [12(13: 14: 16: 16: 17) sts] Row 2 Tks to last 2 sts, Tks2tog; RetP. [11(12: 13: 15: 15: 16) sts] Rep the last row 2(3: 3: 3: 3: 3) more times. [9(9: 10: 12: 12: 13) sts] Work 6(5: 5: 5: 5: 5) rows in Tks. SHAPE SHOULDERS Row 1 Cast off 3(3: 3: 3: 3: 4) sts knitwise, Tks to end; RetP. [6(6: 7: 9: 9: 9) sts] Cast off 2(2: 3: 3: 3: 3) sts knitwise, Tks to end; RetP. [4(4: 4: 6: 6: 6) sts] Cast off rem sts knitwise. RIGHT SIDE

Row 1 1 loop on hook, Tks 14 sts, place marker into next st; RetP. [15 sts] Work 15 rows in Tks on these 15 sts only. Place marker into st loop to hold st.

POCKET PIECE 2 With a new ball of yarn, rejoin to marker, Tks rem 8(10: 12: 14: 16: 18) sts. Work 15 rows in Tks on these 8(10: 12: 14: 16: 18) sts only. Fasten off yarn. Return hook to marked loop, 1 loop on hook, Tks sts from Pocket Piece 1, Tks sts from Pocket Piece 2 (knot yarn to secure at join between pocket pieces); RetP. [23(25: 27: 29: 31: 33) sts] Work 24 rows in Tks. SHAPE ARMHOLES Row 1 1 loop on hook, Tks to end, turn work, cast off 5(5: 5: 5: 6: 6) sts, turn work; RetP through 2 loops to end. [18(20: 22: 24: 25: 27) sts] Row 2 Tks to end; RetP. Row 3 1 loop on hook, Tks to last 3 sts, Tks2tog, Tks1; RetP. [17(19: 21: 23: 24: 26) sts] Rep last row 0(1: 2: 2: 2: 3) more times. [17(18: 19: 21: 22: 23) sts] Work 15(16: 16: 17: 19: 19) rows in Tks.

32: 34) sts] Rows 6-7 Tks to end; RetP. Row 8 Rep Row 5. [30(32: 32: 34: 34: 36) sts] Rows 9-22 Tks to end; RetP. Row 23 Repeat Row 5. [32(34: 34: 36: 36: 38) sts] Rows 24-35 Tks to end; RetP. Row 36 Repeat Row 5. [34(36: 36: 38: 38: 40) sts] Rep Rows 5-7, 0(0: 1: 1: 2: 2) more times. [34(36: 38: 40: 42: 44) sts] Work 25(23: 23: 19: 19: 19) rows in Tks.

SHAPE SHOULDERS Row 1 1 loop on hook, Tks to end, turn work, cast off 3(3: 3: 3: 3: 4) sts, turn work; RetP through 2 loops to end. [6(6: 7: 9: 9: 9) sts] Row 2 1 loop on hook, Tks to end, turn work, cast off 2(2: 3: 3: 3: 3) sts, turn work; RetP through 2 loops to end. [4(4: 4: 6: 6: 6) sts] Cast off rem sts.

SHAPE SLEEVE CAP Row 1 Cast off 5(5: 5: 5: 6: 6) sts knitwise, Tks to end, turn work, cast off 5(5: 5: 5: 6: 6) sts, turn work; RetP through 2 loops to end. [24(26: 28: 30: 30: 32) sts] Row 2 Tks to end; RetP. Row 3 1 loop on hook, Tks2tog, Tks to last 3 sts, Tks2tog, Tks1; RetP. [22(24: 26: 28: 28: 30) sts] Row 4 Tks to end; RetP. Row 5 1 loop on hook, Tks2tog, Tks to last 3 sts, Tks2tog, Tks1; RetP. [20(22: 24: 26: 26: 28) sts] Rep Rows 4-5, 0(0: 0: 0: 0: 1) more time. [20(22: 24: 26: 26: 26) sts] Work 5(5: 5: 5: 5: 5) rows in Tks. Next row Rep Row 5. [18(20: 22: 24: 24: 24) sts] Work 6(7: 7: 8: 9: 9) rows in Tks. Rep Row 5 until 8(8: 8: 10: 10: 10) sts remain. Cast off knitwise.

SLEEVES (MAKE 2) With Yarn A and a 6mm hook, ch26(28: 28: 30: 30: 32). Foundation row Pull up a loop in second ch from hook and in each ch to end; RetP. [26(28: 28: 30: 30: 32) sts] Rows 1-4 Tps to end; RetP. Change to a 7mm hook Row 5 1 loop on hook, Tksinc, Tks to last st, Tksinc, Tks in last st; RetP. [28(30: 30: 32:

LOWER BAND Sew shoulder and side seams. With 7mm hook, turn work so that the Right Side of lower edge is facing and rejoin yarn to marker. Pull up 77(85: 93: 101: 109: 117) loops along lower edge of Jacket; RetP. Row 1 Tps to end; RetP. Change to 6mm hook, Rows 2-5 Tps to end; RetP.

SHAPE NECKLINE Row 1 Cast off 5(5: 5: 5: 6: 6) sts knitwise, Tks to end; RetP. [12(13: 14: 16: 16: 17) sts] Row 2 1 loop on hook, Tks2tog, Tks to end; RetP. [11(12: 13: 14: 15: 16) sts] Rep the last row 2(3: 3: 3: 3: 3) more times. [9(9: 10: 12: 12: 13) sts] Work 6(5: 5: 5: 5: 5) rows in Tks.

LOWER TAB With Yarn A, a 7mm hook and an even tension, ch6. Foundation row Pull up a loop in the second ch from hook and in each ch to end; RetP. Rows 1-5 Tks to end, turn. Do not fasten off, place marker into loop to secure st.

Stitch markers will help you keep your place when you’re working the pockets.

LOWER EDGE With spare yarn from centre of ball, ch17(19: 21: 23: 25: 27), place to one side. Return hook to marker in first st of Lower Tab and Tks to end, then pull up a loop from each of the spare ch sts worked; RetP. [23(25: 27: 29: 31: 33) sts] Work 8 Rows in Tks. DIVIDE FOR POCKETS

POCKET PIECE 1 34 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Tunisian jack t Cast off knitwise using 7mm hook. Stitch side edges of band to Lower Tabs on Jacket fronts. FRONT ZIP BAND

RIGHT FRONT With a 6mm hook and right side facing, pull up 74(76: 77: 79: 80: 82) loops from along Right Front edge, pickup 1 st at top corner; RetP. [75(77: 78: 80: 81: 83) sts] Rows 1-2 Tps to end; RetP. Cast off knitwise using a 7mm hook. Repeat for Left Front starting at top corner. POCKET LININGS

Foundation row Pull up a loop in the foll 3 sts from Right Front Band, 19 sts from Right Front Neckline, 22(24: 24: 24: 26: 26) sts from Back Neckline, 19 sts from Left Front Neckline, 3 sts from Left Front Band; RetP. [66(68: 68: 68: 70: 70) sts] Change to a 6mm hook. Row 1 1 loop on hook, Tps2tog, Tps to last 3 sts, Tps2tog, Tps in last st; RetP. [64(66: 66: 66: 68: 68) sts] Rows 2-4 Rep Row 1. [58(60: 60: 60: 62: 62) sts] Cast off knitwise using a 7mm hook. Ss down both collar edges to neaten the decrease edge.

RIGHT POCKET LINING With a 7mm hook, ch15. Foundation row Pull up a loop in second ch from hook and in each ch to end; RetP. [15 sts] Rows 1-9 Tss to end; RetP. Row 10 1 loop on hook, Tss2tog, Tss to end; RetP. [14 sts] Rep Row 10 until 7 sts remain. Cast off.

LEFT POCKET LINING With a 7mm hook, ch15. Foundation row Pull up a loop in second ch from hook and in each ch to end; RetP. [15 sts] Rows 1-9 Tss to end; RetP. Row 10 1 loop on hook, Tss to last 3 sts, Tss2tog, Tss1; RetP. [14 sts] Rep Row 10 until 7 sts remain. Cast off. COLLAR With a 7mm hook and Right Side facing, rejoin yarn to top corner of Right Front.

FUR COLLAR With Yarn B and a 5.5mm hook, ch50(52: 52: 52: 54: 54). Foundation row Dc into second ch from hook, and into each ch to end, turn. [49(51: 51: 51: 53: 53) sts] Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 2dc into first st, 5(6: 6: 6: 7: 7) dc, 2dc into foll st, (5dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times, dc to last st, 2dc into last st, turn. [58(60: 60: 60: 62: 62) sts] Rows 2-3 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 4 Ch1, 2dc into first st, 6(7: 7: 7: 8: 8)dc, 2dc into the following st, (6dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times, dc to last st, 2dc in last st, turn. [67(69: 69: 69: 71: 71) sts] Rows 5-8 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 9 Ch1, 2dc into first st, 7(8: 8: 8: 9: 9) dc, 2dc into the foll st, (7dc, 2dc into next st) 6 times, dc in each st to last st, 2dc in last st, turn. [76(78: 78: 78: 80: 80) sts] Rows 10-12 Ch1, dc to end, turn. Row 13 Ch1, 19(20: 20: 20: 21: 21) dc, 2dc in

next st, (5dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times, dc in each st to end, turn. [83(85: 85: 85: 87: 87) sts] Rows 14-15 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Change to a 7mm hook. Work 1 row in dc. Fasten off. BUTTON BAND With Yarn C and a 5.5mm hook, rejoin yarn to beg chain on Fur Collar with a ss. Foundation row Dc into each st to end, turn. [49(51: 51: 51: 53: 53) sts] Row 1 Ch1, dc into first st, (dc, ch2, dc) in next st, 6(7: 7: 7: 8: 8) dc, (dc, ch2, dc) in next st, (7dc, [dc, ch2, dc] in next st), 4 times, 6(7: 7: 7: 8: 8) dc, (dc, ch2, dc) in next st, dc in last st. Fasten off. TO FINISH Block work. Sew zips onto pockets neatly. Pin pocket linings onto the wrong side of Jacket Fronts completely covering zips and sew into place using small neat sts which are not visible from Front. Pin zip onto Front Bands, sew into place using small neat stitches or a sewing machine. Sew Sleeve seams and set in sleeves. Finish all ends neatly. Make 2 small pom poms with Yarn C and attach to Zip. Sew buttons onto inside of lower edge of Collar. Attach Fur Collar by button holes.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH

1 After the foundation row, have the RS facing you. Insert hook through the fabric from front to back, placing hook between the front and the back of each vertical strand.

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2 Pull up a loop of yarn and leave it on the hook.

3 Repeat from step 1 in each vertical strand across to form a row of Tunisian knit stitches.

4 The fabric created looks a lot like knitted stocking stitch, but is a lot thicker.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 35

It all starts with a simple concept: we work with the best in the industry to bring the best directly to you - at the lowest prices, guaranteed. Explore the full potential of your creativity without being held back by the high costs of name brand yarns. From classic wool to durable acrylic and versatile cotton yarns, you’ll find the highest quality yarns for the very best prices - so you can do what you do best: create.

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DISHIE

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starts at £1.79/50g ball 100% Peruvian Wool

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EASY PEASY ARAN WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Knit Picks Preciosa Tonal Worsted (100% merino, 250m/100g), 1 skein in Anemone (26722) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook For yarn stockists contact Knit Picks www.knitpicks.com Q

MEASUREMENTS 10x17cm (4x6¾in)

NOTES Each Mitt is made up of 2 motifs that are edged tog around the top and bottom and seamed down the sides. For all 3-st clusters (tr, dtr or ttr), (work required st stopping before last yrh) 3 times, inserting hook in same sp each time, yrh and draw through all loops on hook.

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

Precious coral

Make a cosy fingerless mitt and hat set using just one skein of this scrummy yarn. Find the matching hat pattern for free on our blog at www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk

Our chunky handwarmers are quick to hook, temptingly tonal and illed with darling detail. By Sara Huntington.

MITTS (MAKE 2)

3-ttr cluster, 3dc in ch-3 sp, dc in top of 3-dtr cluster, 2dc in ch-2 sp, dc in top of 3-tr cluster; rep from * 3 more times omitting last dc, ss into first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

MOTIFS (MAKE 2) Make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 12dc into loop, ss to first dc to join. [12 sts] Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc in each st around, ss to first dc to join. [24 sts] Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr2tog over next 2 sts, *ch3, tr3tog over next 3 sts, ch5, tr3tog over next 3 sts; rep from * 3 more times omitting last tr3tog, ss into top of tr2tog. [8 petals] Round 4 Ch3 (counts as tr), 2-tr cluster into first ch-3 sp, *ch2, (3-dtr cluster, ch3, 3-ttr cluster, ch3, 3-dtr cluster, ch2) in next ch-5 sp, 3-tr cluster into next ch-3 sp; rep from * 3 more times omitting last 3-tr cluster, ss into top of 2-tr cluster. Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc into top of 2-tr cluster, *2dc in ch-2 sp, dc in top of 3-dtr cluster, 3dc in ch-3 sp, 3dc in top of Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

JOINING THE MOTIFS (TOP OF MITT) Round 1 With RS of motif 1 facing, join yarn in the central st of 3-dc group at any corner, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, dc in next 16 sts along one side. Take motif 2 (RS facing) and dc into the corresponding central dc in any 3-dc corner, dc in next 16 sts, ss into the first dc on motif 1 to join into the round. [34 sts] Round 2 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in the back loop only of each st around, ss into top of beg ch-2. Rounds 3 & 4 Rep Round 2. Fasten off.

JOINING THE MOTIFS (BOTTOM OF MITT) Work as for Rnds 1 & 2 of Top of Mitt. [34 sts] Round 3 Working in the back loops only, Ch2 (counts as htr), skip first st, htr in the back in next 9 sts, 2htr in next st, htr in next 11 sts, 2htr in next st, htr in next 11 sts, ss in top of beg ch-2 to join. [36 sts] Round 4 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr2tog in st at base of ch-3, ch2, skip 2 sts, *tr3tog in next st ch2, skip 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in top of tr2tog to join. [12 3-tr clusters) Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, 2dc in ch-2 sp, *dc in top of next tr3tog, 2dc in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, ss to first dc to join. [36 dc] Fasten off.

SEAM SIDES Seam the sides of the motifs leaving a 6cm (2½in) gap for the thumb on one side. Fasten off and weave in ends. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 37

Pick ‘n’ mix (Part 1) Your block blanket journey starts here with the irst part of our crochet-along project by Lucy Croft.

IVE EXCLUS ER IB SUBSCR N R PATTE

Croch t-a ong EASY PEASY ARAN WEIGHT

5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Quantites of yarn given are enough to complete the entire blanket. You will need both colourways and borders as listed below. Q Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland wool, 100g/200m), see below for details. Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook For yarn stockists contact LoveCrochet 0845 544 2196 www.lovecrochet.com Colourway 1

We’re so excited to finally start sharing our crochet-along project with you. This first block is worked in four different shades and has a lacy central star. Fantastic. The Pick ‘n’ Mix crochet-along blanket is made up of 12 vibrant squares in total, each worked in two different colourways. You’ll find a new square pattern in each issue of Simply Crochet until the main part of the blanket is complete, followed by all the joining and border details you’ll need. Look out for Part 2 in issue 50. Turn to page 40 to find out more about designer Lucy Croft and what inspired this beautiful block blanket project.

NOTE For your blanket, you’ll need two squares in this pattern in two different colourways. Make one with Yarns B, C, E and F, and one with Yarns A, G, D and H.

The second colour combination highlights different rounds, giving it a fresh look.

Q 1 skein of each:

Yarn B Cyan Blue (8891) Yarn C Violet (7809) Yarn E Lagoon (7812) Yarn F Azure (8892) Colourway 2 Q 1 skein of each: Yarn A Bright Red (8414) Yarn G Cerise (7802) Yarn D Granny Smith Green (8914) Yarn H Orange Sherbet (7825) Border Q 2 skeins of Yarn K Grey (8501)

MEASUREMENTS Each square measures 20x20cm (8x8in) Finished blanket measures 144x94cm (56½x37in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

SQUARE Using Yarn F, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), (tr, ch1) 7 times into the loop, ss to third of beg ch-4 to join. [8tr, 8 ch-1 sps] Round 2 *Ch8, ss to 5th ch from hook, ch3, skip next ch-1 sp, ss to next tr; rep from * another 7 times, working last ss to st at base of beg ch-8. Fasten off. [16 ch-3 sps, 8 ch-5 loops] Round 3 Join Yarn C with ss to any ch-5 loop, ch3 (counts as tr), (1tr, ch3, 2tr) in same ch-5 loop, *skip next 2 ch-3 sp, (2tr, ch3, 2tr) in next ch-5 loop; rep from * another 6 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. [32 tr, 8 ch-3 sps]. Round 4 Join Yarn E with ss to any ch-3 sp, ch3 (counts as tr), (ch1, tr) 6 times in same ch-3 sp, *skip next 2 tr, dc in sp between next 2 groups of 2 tr, skip next 2 tr, tr in next ch-3 sp, (ch1, tr) 6 times in same ch-3 sp; rep from * another 6 times, skip next 2 tr, dc in sp between next 2 groups of 2 tr, skip next 2 tr, ss to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. [8 dc, 8 petals of 7 tr, 6 ch-1 sps] Round 5 Join Yarn B with ss to 3rd tr of any petal, *ch3, skip (ch1, tr, ch1) ss to next tr, skip (ch1, tr, ch1, tr), (dtr, ch2, dtr, ch2, dtr) in next dc, ss to 3rd tr of next petal; rep from * another 7 times, working last ss in first ss.

Fasten off. [8 ch-3 sps, 24 dtr, 16 ch-2 sps] Round 6 Join Yarn C with ss to any ch-3 sp, *ch7, ss in same ch-3 sp, ch3, ss in next ch-2 sp, ch2, ss in next ch-2 sp, ch3, ss in next ch-3 sp, ch3, ss in next ch-2 sp, ch2, ss in next ch-2 sp, ch3, ss in next ch-3 sp; rep from * another 3 times, working last ss in first ss. [4 ch-7 sps, 32 ch-3 sps, 16 ch-2 sps] Round 7 Ss in next ch-7 sp, ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), *(tr, ch1, 2dtr, ch1, tr, ch1, tr) in same ch-7 sp, ch1, (tr, ch1) twice in next ch-3 sp, (htr, ch1) twice in next ch-2 sp, (dc, ch1, dc) in each of next 2 ch-3 sps, (ch1, htr) twice in next ch-2 sp, (ch1, tr) twice in next ch-3 sp, ch1, tr in next ch-7 sp, ch1; rep from * another 3 times, omitting final tr and ch1, ss to 3rd of beg ch-4. Fasten off. [4 corners of 4tr, 2 dtr, 4 ch-1 sps, 4 sides of 12 ch-1 sps, 4 tr, 4 htr, 4dc] Round 8 Join Yarn F with ss to first tr of any corner, ch2 (counts as htr), htr in each ch-sp and each st around working a ch-2 sp at each corner. Fasten off. [136 htr, 4 ch-2 sps]

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GOOD READ

Designer Lucy Croft spills the beans about her Pick ‘n’ Mix blanket. I got hooked on crochet at a time when I was eager to get back to doing something crafty after a drought in my uni years. A nudge from a good friend who was learning to knit encouraged me to pick up a crochet hook. I wanted to learn a craft that was portable and crochet felt a bit unique at the time. In a geeky way, I sort of love the maths involved in a complicated lacy crochet pattern but I am just as happy making a repetitive blanket. When it came to designing this colourful block blanket for the crochet-along, I had a few special conditions to work with. First of all I was keen to make my baby daughter a blanket that she could keep for many years. At the same time I needed the kind of crochet project that I could easily fit into her nap times and the odd spare moments of peace she gives me, so being able to work on just one block at a time was perfect. I tend to work very methodically so I aimed to make each square different from the last using a wide variety of stitches. Sometimes I’d hit a bit of a creative brick wall and then something as simple as a pattern in a book would give me the inspiration I needed for the next square design. Cascade 220 is the perfect yarn for hooking a block blanket for loads of reasons; it doesn’t pill so it will stand the test of time, the aran weight means it crochets up quickly, and the myriad of colours means there are loads of options to suit 40 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

every kind of décor. I absolutely love it and was thrilled to use it for this special project. Planning and thinking through the whole project before even picking up the hook has been key – it helped me keep my focus. Right from the outset I tried to keep really good notes and make stitch charts of each square as I made them to help with the pattern writing. I’m so glad that I did! HINTS AND TIPS If you’re joining in with this Simply Crochet crochet-along project, I’ve got a few words of wisdom for you. Because each square in the design uses several colours there are loads of ends to weave in. It’s a huge task and the one that most of us crocheters love the least, so weaving them away as you go makes it less arduous work. Also, as each square is so different you might find they don’t all come out exactly the same size. Don’t worry – the Cascade 220 yarn blocks really well and you’ll end up with 24 lovely, evenly-sized squares. My personal favourite of the 12 squares is actually the very last one I designed (above, left), just as I was beginning to think my ideas had dried up! Lo and behold that one turned out to be my favourite, though I couldn’t tell you exactly why. Find Lucy on Instagram @lucyacroft. Flip to page 38 to find part one of Lucy’s pattern or subscribe. Don’t miss out! Crochet-along yarn packs are available now from www.lovecrochet.com/ cascade-yarns-simply-crochet-cal-colour-pack

KAT’S JOURNAL om the st ud io ... f r

Designer and blogger Kat Goldin reveals that putting her inspiration into words can be the trickiest part of the design process. hen asked which area of pattern writing is the one that I find the most difficult, it wouldn’t be the maths or the grading, the charting or even the editing – it would have to be writing the blurb describing the inspiration for the design and its title. That 100 word introduction so often escapes me, and I find that I sit for ages with the cursor simply flashing at me as I try to think up something other than “Sometimes all you need is a simple stitch in a great yarn,” to pop into the pattern description. And as for names, it’s lucky that my children aren’t named One, Two and Three! Some patterns do have a great story to tell – where I found the yarn, the way the stitch pattern echoes something I've seen or the way a design seems to have fallen into my lap. Many of my designs start with an idea of the photo I want to take of the finished object and I work backwards from there. What angles will I photograph the details from? What colour and shape will I use? Not to say things don't change as I go, but I’m definitely a product person in the `process versus product´ design discussion. Those stories are easy, the hard part is keeping my long-winded sentences to a minimum. You’d think that after all these years of writing about crochet, I would have this bit down pat, but the truth is those

W

t “Design is often abou anslating other people's inspiration.”

“That hund red word introd uctio n so often escape s m e.”

fully-formed designs are actually few and far between. Many designs come from the most pedestrian and, quite frankly, boring of sources. I’ve often wondered if I can write “this design was inspired by page 55 of the Japanese stitch dictionary I bought from Etsy,” in the pattern description box. Or something like “When I started out, it was supposed to look like X, but that looked terrible, so I had to change it”. LEARN FROM YOUR MISTAKES Other times, it’s simply the construction I’m interested in and the stitches or design are just an add-on. During the times of year when I have to spend my working time at the side of the swimming pool for lessons or attend endless sports days, assemblies or school plays, I design with that half-attention in mind. Designs where I don’t have to count, look or change too many colours are my go-to projects at that time of year. This was a lesson learned from experience when I had a succession of work projects that had to be restarted due to paying more attention to my children than what my hands were doing, or a late running project got singed on a Aga. Even mistakes have their place, however. Sometimes these mishaps are small – a misplaced stitch leads to an altered stitch pattern – or sometimes they’re a bit more significant.

“Even mistakes have their place.” Recently, I was designing what was supposed to be a cowl neck jumper, but I’d accidentally used the wrong number in some calculations that meant a huge portion of it had to be ripped back. This same mistake had pushed me perilously close to my deadline and had also led to a miscalculation in the yarn amounts needed. I didn’t have enough yarn for the cowl neck and I didn’t have enough time to get the rest sent. So, a round-necked jumper was born instead. ELUSIVE INSPIRATION Designing is often about translating other people’s inspiration. About half of the work that I do is uncredited, where I design for books, partworks magazines and yarn companies. In these cases, I’m usually given a very specific brief, often with a photo, and frequently specified down to the stitch pattern. Juggling client expectations and creating

original work can often be tricky, and inspiration can sometimes be found in the form of problem solving to make sure that the brief is met correctly. However inspiration arrives, that elusive title and description do need to be written and until “this design was inspired by page 55 of the Japanese stitch dictionary I bought from Etsy,” becomes acceptable, I will take whatever tenuous form of it I can get, while continuing to resist naming my designs (and children) One, Two and Three… You can see what Kat’s been designing, hooking and photographing lately on her beautiful blog at www.slugsontherefrigerator.com

A loch at my month "I've been making the mot of late summe produce, preeving cheie fom the gaden and making pineapple jam to eat with fehly-baked bread. Along with a cup of tea, all of thi ha been good fuel fo ou new book, Raw – I'm really excited about the patten I've ceated fo thi new collection. Watch thi space!"

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Let’s hang out

Bring this super-cute gothic girl out of her cave and into the sunshine. Designed by Ilaria Caliri.

SEE OUR VIDEO! Go to www.ins tagram simplycrochetm .com/ to view Batgirl in acag tion

Amigurumi do A BIT TRICKY 4PLY WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

Say hi to Batgirl. This independent lady is all dressed up for Halloween (even her boots have tiny bat ears) and isn’t afraid to do her own thing. This is one project you’ll definitely want hanging around. So cute.

NOTES YOU WILL NEED DMC Natura Just Cotton (100% cotton, 50g/155m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Gris Argent (09) Yarn B Prune (59) Yarn C Gardenia (36) Yarn D Malva (31) Yarn E Tournesol (16) Yarn F Noir (11) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q Safety eyes (about 8mm diameter) Q Black tulle fabric (approx 12x16cm) Q Pipe cleaners (optional) Q Thin wire Q Stitch markers Q Toy stuffing Q Tapestry needle For yarn stockists contact DMC 0116 275 4000 www.dmccreative.co.uk Q

MEASUREMENTS 23cm (9in) tall

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

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The pattern is worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off the round with a ss. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work. Change colour in last yrh of prev round. The Body and Head are worked as one piece starting from the bottom to the body. All the other pieces are sewn to the body. BODY AND HEAD With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the ring. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 6 times. [18 dc] Round 4 (2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) 6 times. [24 dc] Round 5 (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 dc] Round 6 (2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts) 6 times. [36 dc] Rounds 7-11 Dc in each st around. [36 dc] Fasten off. Round 12 Join Yarn B, working in front loop h tr in each dc, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join. [108 tr] Round 13 Working in back loop only of Rnd 11, dc in each st around. [36 dc] Round 14 (Dc2tog, dc in next 10 sts) 3 times. [33 sts] Round 15 (Dc2tog, dc in next 9 sts) 3 times. [30 sts] Round 16 Dc in each st around. Round 17 (Dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 18 Dc in each st around. Round 19 (Dc2tog, d in next 2 sts) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 20 Dc in each t around. Fasten off. Round 21 Join Yarn C working in back loops only, (dc2tog, c in next st) 6 times. [12 sts] Round 22 Dc in each st around. Stuff the Body. Round 23 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 6 times. [18 dc] Round 24 (2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) 6 times. [24 dc]

The cape keeps its shape with the help of wire inside the border. And it folds out into wings!

Round 25 (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 dc] Round 26 (2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts) 6 times. [36 dc] Round 27 (2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts) 6 times. [42 dc] Round 28 (2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts) 6 times. [48 dc] Rounds 29-35 Dc in each st around. Round 36 (Dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [42 sts] Round 37 (Dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 38 (Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 39 (Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [24 sts] Secure eyes between Rounds 29 and 30 approx 11 sts apart. Stuff the Head with toy stuffing and continue stuffing as you go. Round 40 (Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 41 (Dc in next st, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts] Round 42 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. ARMS (MAKE 2) With Yarn C, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc into the ring. [5 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [10 dc] Rounds 3-5 Dc in each st around. Rounds 6-15 Join Yarn B, dc in each st around. Round 16 Dc2tog, dc in next 8 sts. [9 sts] Round 17 Dc2tog, dc in next 7 sts. [8 sts] Round 18 Dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts. [7 sts] Stuff. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the Arms to the Body. Insert a pipe cleaner if you want to bend them. LEGS (MAKE 2) With Yarn D, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 47

Amigurumi do 5dc into the ring. [5 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [10 dc] Round 3 (partial round) Htr in next st, 3tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in next st, dc in next st, ss in next st, leaving rem 4 dc unworked. [10 sts] Move marker to new first st of Round. Rounds 4-5 Dc in each st around. [14 dc] Round 6 Dc in next 7 dc, (dc2tog) twice, 3dc. [12 sts] Round 7-11 Dc in each st around. In Rounds 12-25, change colour every round using this sequence: Yarn E, Yarn A, Yarn D. Rounds 12-19 Dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 20 (Dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts) twice. [10 sts] Rounds 21-25 Dc in each st around. Continue with Yarn A. Rounds 26-29 Dc in each st around. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the Legs and sew to the bottom of the Body. Insert a pipe cleaner if you want to bend them. SHOES (MAKE 2) With Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc into the ring. [5 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [10 dc] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 5 times. [15 dc] Round 4 (partial round) Htr in next st, 3tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in next st, dc in next 2 sts, ss in next st, leaving rem 4 dc unworked. Move marker to new first st of Round. Round 5 Dc in back loop only in each st around. [19 dc] Round 6 Dc in each st around. [19 dc] Round 7 Dc in next 10 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts. [17 sts] Round 8 Dc in next 9 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts. [15 sts] Rounds 9-12 Dc in each st around. Round 13 Dc in next 8 sts, *ch1, tr2tog, ch2, ss into the second ch from hook, ch2, dc into same st as second part of prev tr2tog, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * once more. Round 14 Dc in next 2 sts, ss to next st. Fasten off leaving rem sts unworked and weave in ends. HAIR CAP With Yarn F, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the ring. [6 dc] 48 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 6 times. [18 dc] Round 4 (2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) 6 times. [24 dc] Round 5 (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 dc] Round 6 (2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts) 6 times. [36 dc] Round 7 (2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts) 6 times. [42 dc] Round 8 (2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts) 6 times. [48 dc] Rounds 9-14 Dc in each st around. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. The Hair cap is used as a base for securing the hair. Sew the Hair cap to the back of the Head. To make strands of hair, cut lengths of Yarn F measuring approx 40cm. Fold in half and use a crochet hook to join these strands in almost every st of the hair cap except for the part in front of where the hairband will sit. Use a tapestry needle and long strands of Yarn F, embroidering the front part of the hair using the image as a guide. HAIRBAND With Yarn B, ch27, leaving a long starting tail for sewing. Row 1 (RS) Skip the first ch, ss in next 4 ch, dc in next 3 ch, htr in next 12 ch, dc in next 3 ch, ss in next 4 ch, working along the other side of the foundation chain, ss in next 4 ch, dc in next 3 ch, htr in next 12 ch, dc in next 3 ch, ss in next 4 ch. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

OUTER EARS (MAKE 2) With Yarn B, ch5. Row 1 (RS) Ss into the second ch from the hook, dc in next 3 ch, turn. [4 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in next 3 sts, leaving the last st unworked, turn. [3 dc] Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in next 3 sts, turn. Row 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in next 3 sts, ss to the first ss of Row 1. [4 sts] Fasten off.

firmly with a single st at each end, using the image as a guide. SKIRT Fold the tulle fabric in half lengthwise and with a tapestry needle and a tail of Yarn F, make long sts all along the folded edge. Pull yarn to gather fabric until it is the same size as the edge of the waist under the ruffle of the shirt. Sew the tulle skirt just under the ruffle. CAPE With Yarn D, ch22. Row 1 (RS) Starting in second ch from the hook, 2dc in next ch, (dc in next 3 ch, 2dc in next ch) 5 times, ch1, turn. [27 dc] Rows 2-3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across, turn. Row 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first st, 2dc in next st, (dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 5 times, turn. [33 dc] Rows 5-9 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across, turn. Row 10 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each of first 2 sts, 2dc in next st, (dc in next 5 dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times, turn. [39 dc] Rows 11-12 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across, turn. Row 13 (partial row) Ch3 (does not count as st), 1tr in the first st, 1htr in next st, 16dc, ss to next st, turn, leaving rem sts unworked. [19 sts] Row 14 Ch1 (does not count as st), skip the first st, 12dc, ss to next st, turn, leaving rem sts unworked. [13 sts] Row 15 Ch3 (counts as tr), skip next st, tr in next st, htr in next st, dc in next 8 sts, ss to next st, turn, leaving rem sts unworked, turn. [12 sts] Row 16 Ch1 (does not count as st), skip ss, dc in next 4 sts, ss, turn, leaving rem sts unworked. [5 sts] Row 17 Ch3 (counts as tr), skip next st, tr in next st, htr in next st, dc in next st, ss in next st. [12 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. Rejoin yarn with RS facing in outer edge of Round 12. Repeat Rows 13 to 17 of Cape. Do not fasten off yarn.

INNER EARS (MAKE 2)

CAPE BORDER

With Yarn D, ch5, tr2tog in 4th and 5th ch from hook. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing into the Outer Ear. Sew the Ears on the Hairband using the image as a guide. Pin the Hairband on the Head, and sew

Make a dc border all around the Cape; dc in each st and Row end, working a picot (ch2, dc in 2nd ch from hook) in each tip of cape. Keep the Cape flat and stiff by crocheting a thin wire thread inside the dc border.

™

Excellent stitch definition Ideal for sweaters, hats, scarves and home décor 100% Acrylic 46 shades including variegates Now available in the UK from Love Knitting, Deramores, Wool Warehouse, Colemans Craft Warehouse, Kisko Fabrics, Samuel Taylors, Peach Unicorn and Readicut.

Discover all the ideas, inspiration and crafting supplies you could ever dream of!

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Hook yourself a very happy Christmas with this collection of festive favourites from the Simply Crochet team. Packed with patterns for gifts and decorations, plus cosy winter accessories, it’s the perfect crochet compendium for the holiday season.

Or call 0844 844 0388 and quote ‘Your Crochet Christmas 2016’ Lines open weekdays 8am to 8pm and Saturday 9am to 1pm. Overseas please call +44 (0) 1795 414676. * Price applies to UK orders only. EUR price £9.99, ROW price £10.99. All prices include P&P. Please allow up to 28 days for delivery.

Brick by brick This geometric toiletry bag is a stylish way to carry your essentials from A to B. Designed by Molla Mills.

toi try bag A BIT TRICKY 2PLY WEIGHT

1.75MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q Scheepjes Maxi (100% cotton,

100g/560m), 2 balls of Yarn A Cream (087) and 1 ball of Yarn B Black (000) Q A 1.75mm (US 5 steel) hook Q Waterproof lining fabric 40x40cm (16x16in) Q Zip 30cm (12in) Q Leather belt 75cm (29½in) For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.com

MEASUREMENTS 32x32cm (12½x12½in) Base measures 12cm (5in)

NOTES The bag is worked in a tube from the bottom up, working both colours in the same Round and incorporating the non-working yarn into the sts to create a neat finish. Change colour in the final yrh of each st. The finished tube is then folded at the bottom to created boxed bag corners with a rectangular base and the lining is added. If you prefer not to use boxed bag corners then a simple bottom seam will work too. For more info on boxed corners, go to www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/ bag-bottoms/#Boxedcorners

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

Designer Molla Mills says: “A toiletry bag is a small but necessary travel essential, and this brick-patterned version is just the thing to avoid arriving at your destination with shampoo-covered socks!” TOILETRY BAG Using Yarn A, ch180 loosely, ss to first ch to join into a loop, being careful not to twist ch. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr throughout), *tr in next 7 ch, change to Yarn B, tr in next 2 ch, change to Yarn A, tr in next 9 ch; repeat from * 9 more times omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [180 tr] Rounds 2-3 Using Yarn A, ch3, *tr in next 7 tr, change to Yarn B, tr in next 2 tr; change to Yarn A, tr in next 9 tr; repeat from * 9 more times omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, changing colour in the ss of Round 3 to begin Round 4 with Yarn B. Round 4 Using Yarn B, ch3, tr in each tr around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Round 5 Using Yarn B, ch3, changing to Yarn A in the last yrh of 3rd ch, *tr in next 16 tr, change to Yarn B, tr in next 2 tr; repeat from * 9 more times omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Rounds 6-8 Repeat Round 5. Round 9 Repeat Round 4, changing colour in the joining ss to begin Round 10 with Yarn A. Round 10 Using Yarn A, ch3, *tr in next 7 tr, change to Yarn B, tr in next 2 tr; change to Yarn A, tr in next 9 tr; repeat from * 9 more times omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Rounds 11-13 Repeat Round 10, changing colour in the ss of Round 13 to begin Round 14 with Yarn B. Rounds 4-13 set pattern. Rounds 14-53 Repeat (Rounds 4-13) 4 more times. Round 54 Repeat Round 4. Round 55 Ss to each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends.

01

This gorgeous bag project is from the book Crochetterie by Molla Mills, published by Jacqui Small (RRP £20). For stockists of this book and more details, visit www.quartoknows.com 52 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

LINING Cut two identical pieces of lining fabric, taking your measurements from the size of the crochet bag, and adding 1cm of seam allowance to the each side. Using the image 01 as a guide, pin the wrong side of the zip to the upper edge of the right side of one lining piece so that the seam allowance can be used to sew the lining to the crochet bag. Sew the zip to the upper edge of the lining and repeat with the other lining piece. Sew the remaining 3 edges of the lining together ensuring the lining will fit comfortably inside the crochet bag. You can stop here, or create boxed corners by flattening out the bottom seam and measuring a line approx 11cm long from edge to edge perpendicular to the seam, using image 02 as a guide. Cut off the excess material so the lining sits neatly inside the bag. TO MAKE UP Turn the crochet tube inside out and flatten out. Pin together the bottom edge (starting ch) and using a length of Yarn A and a tapestry needle, sew together the 2 sides of the bottom with a whipstitch seam. If you have created boxed corners in the lining then you will need to repeat the process for the bag. Do not cut off the excess material. Turn the bag right side out. Wrap the leather belt around the centre of the bag from top to bottom with the clasp about 20 cm (8 in) from the bag’s bottom seam. Punch holes in the belt in three places: one hole at the front, below the clasp; one in line with the bag’s seam; and two at the back. Use strong thread to fasten the belt to the crochet bag through the holes. Place the lining inside the crochet bag. Carefully sew lining to the bag by hand using matching cotton thread and small stitches.

02

IS NEW SU E! BEADED CUFF

BEAUTIFUL BAG

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AT JUST £4.99 THIS ISSUE INCLUDES: ✿ 23 fab autumn accessories ✿ Great gift ideas to crochet now ✿ Hats, bags, jewellery and more! Plus, don’t miss Joanne Scrace's colour change tutorial, be inspired by our chat with scarf aficionado Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz, browse the latest crochet news and lots more!

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This exclusive tunic dress from Wendy is perfect for autumn layering.

Psst

Diamond  shell ce and simple lacate e!

tunic top EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

5MM HOOK

Use Wendy’s flecked Pixile yarn to hook a lacy tunic that’ll soon be a wardrobe staple. The garment has a pretty diamond cut-out section under the bust, a scoop neck and three-quarter-length sleeves.

to last ch-1 sp, Shell in last ch-1 sp, tr in last tr, turn. Repeat last row. This last row sets the pattern for the following section.

BACK Ch 78 (88: 98). Foundation row (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [77 (87: 97) sts] Row 1 Ch3 (counts as first tr throughout), *skip 2 sts, Shell in next st, skip 2 sts, tr in each of next 5 sts; rep from * to last 6 sts, skip 2 sts, Shell in next st, skip 2 sts, tr in last st, turn. [7½ (8½ : 9½) patt repeats] Row 2 Ch3, *Shell in next ch-1 sp, diamond; rep from * to last ch-1 sp, Shell in last ch-1 sp, tr in last tr, turn. Row 3 Ch3, *Shell in next ch-1 sp, ch2, dc in top corner of diamond, ch2; rep from * to last ch-1 sp, Shell in last ch-1 sp, tr in last tr, turn. Row 4 Ch3, *Shell in next ch-1 sp, skip next 2 tr, tr in each of next 5 sts including ch; rep from * to last ch-1 sp, Shell in last ch-1 sp, tr in last tr, turn. Row 5 Ch3, *tr in each of next 5 sts including ch, Shell in central tr of next 5-tr group, skip last 2 sts of same 5-tr group; rep from * to last 6 sts, tr in each of last 6 sts, turn. Row 6 Ch3, *Shell in central tr of next 5-tr group, skip last 2 sts of same 5-tr group, tr in each of next 5 sts including ch; rep from * to last 5-tr group, Shell in central tr of last 5-tr group, tr in last st, turn. Rows 5 and 6 set pattern. Repeat (Rows 5 and 6) 14 more times. Repeat Rows 2-4. Next row Ch3, *Shell in next ch-1 sp, skip next 2 tr, tr in each of next 5 tr; rep from *

Row 1 (RS) Ss across and into first ch-1 sp, ch3, (tr, ch1, 2tr) in same ch-1 sp, work in patt as set by last row, ending with Shell in last ch-1 sp, turn leaving last st unworked. Row 2 Ss across and into first ch-1 sp, ch3, tr in same ch-sp, skip next 2 tr, tr in each of next 5 tr, work in patt to last ch-1 sp, 2tr in last ch-1 sp, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. Row 3 Ss in first 3 sts, ch3, tr in next 4 sts, work in patt to last 5-tr group, tr in each of next 5 tr, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. Row 4 Ss in first 3 sts, ch3, tr in next 2 sts, work in patt to last 5-tr group, tr in next 3 sts, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [5½ (6½: 7½) patt repeats plus 6 tr]*** Now keeping pattern correct, work on these sts without shaping for a further 17 (17: 19) rows. Fasten off.

SHAPE ARMHOLE YOU WILL NEED Wendy Pixile DK (100% ultra fine acrylic, 100g/225m), Marine (3377) See table for yarn quantities and measurements Q A 5mm (US H) hook For yarn stockists contact TB Ramsden 01943 872264 www.tbramsden.co.uk Q

TENSION 17sts and 8.5 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over stitch pattern using a 5mm hook or size needed to obtain tension

ABBREVIATIONS

73.5 (76: 78)cm 29 (30: 30¾)in

Diamond Ch4, dc into centre tr of the 5-tr group on previous row, turn. Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each of the 4 ch, turn, (ch1, dc in each of last 4 dc, turn) 3 times then carry on with next st. Shell (2tr, ch1, 2tr) in the st or sp indicated. For a full list, see page 92

FRONT & BACK

SIZE TO FIT BUST ACTUAL BUST (APPROX)

45.5 (51: 57)cm 17¾ (20: 22½)in

33 (33 : 13 (13 34)cm : 13½)i n

SLEEVE

LENGTH

56 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

FRONT Work as for Back to ***. Keeping patt correct, work 3 more rows.

SHAPE RIGHT NECK Small and Large sizes only: Row 1 (WS) Work in patt up to third (-: fourth) ch-1 sp, 2tr in same ch-1 sp, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [2 (-: 3) patt repeats plus 5 tr] Row 2 Ch3, skip next tr, patt to end, turn. [2 (-: 3) patt repeats plus 4 tr] Row 3 Patt to end, skipping last st, turn. [2 (-: 3) patt repeats plus 3 tr] Row 4 Ch3, skip next tr, patt to end, turn.

Small

Medium

Large

cm

81

86-91

97-102

in

32

34-36

38-40

cm

91

102

114

in

35½

40¼

45

cm

73.5

76

76

in

29

30

30¾

cm

33

33

34

SLEEVE LENGTH

in

13

13

13

YARN

100g

6

7

8

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.

tunic top [1 (-: 2) patt repeats plus a Shell and 7 tr] Row 5 Patt to end, skipping last st, turn. [1 (-: 2) patt repeats plus a Shell and 6 tr] Row 6 Patt to end, turn. Row 7 Patt to end, skipping last st, turn. [1 (-: 2) patt repeats plus a Shell and 5 tr] Continue working in patt on these sts for a further 7 (-: 9) rows. Fasten off. Medium size only: Row 1 (WS) Work in patt up to third Shell, tr in each of 5 sts of third Shell, tr in next 2 tr, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [2 patt repeats plus 10 tr] Row 2 Ch3, skip next tr, tr in each st up to next Shell, patt to end, turn. [2 patt repeats plus 9 tr] Row 3 Patt to last 6 sts, tr in next 5 sts, turn leaving last st unworked. [2 patt repeats plus 8 tr] Row 4 Ch3, skip next tr, tr in each st up to next Shell, patt to end, turn. [2 patt repeats plus 7 tr] Row 5 Patt to last 4 sts, tr in next 3 sts, turn leaving last st unworked. [2 patt repeats plus 6 tr] Row 6 Ch3, tr in each st up to next Shell, patt to end, turn. Row 7 Patt to last 3 sts, tr in next 2 sts, turn leaving last st unworked. [2 patt repeats plus 5 tr] Continue working in patt on these sts for a further 7 rows. Fasten off.

SHAPE LEFT NECK Small and Large size only Skip next 5-tr group and rejoin yarn to next ch-1 sp. Row 1 (WS) Ch3, tr in same ch-1 sp, patt to end, turn. [2 (-: 3) patt repeats plus 5 tr] Row 2 Patt to end, skipping last st, turn. [2 (-: 3) patt repeats plus 4 tr] Row 3 Ch3, skip first tr of next 5-tr group, patt to end, turn. [2 (-: 3) patt repeats plus 3 tr] Row 4 Patt to end, skipping last st, turn. [1 (-: 2) patt repeats plus a Shell and 7 tr] Row 5 Ch3, skip next tr, patt to end, turn. [1 (-: 2) patt repeats plus a Shell and 6 tr] Row 6 Patt to end, turn. Row 7 Ch3, skip next tr, patt to end, turn. [1 (-: 2) patt repeats plus a Shell and 5 tr] Continue working in patt on these sts for a further 7 (-: 9) rows. Fasten off. Medium size only Skip next (3tr, Shell, 3tr) and rejoin yarn to next tr. Row 1 (WS) Ch3, tr in next tr, tr in each of 5 Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

The neckline runs straight across at the back.

sts of Shell, patt to end, turn. [2 patt repeats plus 10 tr] Row 2 Patt to last 7 sts, tr in next 6 sts, turn leaving last st unworked. [2 patt repeats plus 9 tr] Row 3 Ch3, skip next tr, tr in each st up to next Shell, patt to end, turn. [2 patt repeats plus 8 tr] Row 4 Patt to last 5 sts, tr in next 4 sts, turn leaving last st unworked. [2 patt repeats plus 7 tr] Row 5 Ch3, skip next tr, tr in each st up to next Shell, patt to end, turn. [2 patt repeats plus 6 tr] Row 6 Patt to last 3 sts, tr in last 3 sts, turn. Row 7 Ch3, skip next tr, tr in each st up to next Shell, patt to end, turn. [2 patt repeats plus 5 tr] Continue working in patt on these sts for a further 7 rows. SLEEVES (MAKE 2) Ch48 (48: 58). Foundation row (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [47 (47: 57) sts] Rows 1-4 As Rows 1-4 of Back. [47 (47: 57) sts including ch-1 sps] Row 5 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, now continue working in patt, with a Shell in the ch-1 sp of each Shell on the previous row, and a tr in every tr of each 5-tr group until the last st, 2tr in the last st, turn. [49 (49: 59) sts] Row 6 Ch3, work in patt as set by Row 5 until last st, tr in last st, turn. Row 7 (increase row) Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr in each tr to first Shell, work in patt

ending with a Shell in last Shell, tr in each tr to last st, 2tr in last st, turn. [51 (51: 61) sts] Rows 8-11 Repeat the last 2 rows twice more. [55 (55: 65) sts] Row 12 As Row 6. Rows 13-18 Repeat Row 7. [67 (67: 77) sts] Row 19 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, skip next 2 tr, Shell in next tr (this is the centre tr of a new 5-tr group), patt to last 6 sts, skip next 2 tr, Shell in next tr, skip next 2 sts, 2tr in last st, turn. [69 (69: 79) sts] Rows 20-28 Repeat Row 7. [87 (87: 97) sts] Large size only Repeat Row 19 once more. [- (-: 99) sts] Next row Ss into next 2 sts, ch3, tr in each st up to first complete Shell, work in patt ending with last complete repeat of (Shell, 5-tr group), tr in each remaining st to last 2 sts, turn leaving last 2 sts unworked. [83 (83: 95) sts] Repeat last row three more times. [71 (71: 83) sts] Fasten off. TO MAKE UP Join Shoulder Seams.

NECK EDGING Rejoin yarn at shoulder seam with RS facing and work 1 round of dc evenly around Neckline, ss to first dc. Fasten off. Set in sleeves evenly by joining along shoulder. Join underarm Sleeve and side seam in one and repeat for other side. Fasten off and weave in all ends. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 57

Bear necessities Make a little one even cuter by dressing them in this koala outit by Simone Francis.

Baby dungar s These koala dungarees are nothing short of adorable. There’s even a tail on the back. Aussie style for newborns and up.

EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

3.5MM, 4MM

NOTES Each side of the dungarees is worked in one piece and then joined along the centre line with a seam. A bib is added onto front and back and koala features are sewn into place, press stud fasteners are added onto the straps behind the koala ears. Shirring elastic is optional to pull in the under arm section.

YOU WILL NEED Rowan Summerlite DK (100% cotton, 130m/50g), Yarn A Mushroom (454), See table for yarn quantities and measurements 1 ball in Yarn B Steel (458) for all sizes Q Small amount of orange yarn for mouth Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q 4 stitch markers Q 2 press stud fasteners Q Small amount of shirring elastic (if desired) Q Tapestry needle For yarn stockists contact Rowan 01484 950630 www.knitrowan.com Q

Cute paw print motifs act as knee patches – just the thing for curious crawlers.

ONE SIDE (MAKE 2)

ANKLE RIBBING

ch-3, tr in each st to last st, 2tr in last st, turn. [40 (43: 46: 49: 52) sts] Rep (Rows 2-3) 0 (0: 1: 1: 1) more time. [40 (43: 48: 51: 54) sts] Place marker in end of last row, do not fasten off yarn.

With Yarn A and 3.5mm hook, ch15 (15: 17: 17: 19). Row 1 (RS) Dc in back loop only of 2nd ch from hook, dc in back loop only of each ch to end, turn. [14 (14: 16: 16: 18) sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in back loop only of each st across, turn. Repeating Row 2, work 22 (24: 26: 28: 30) more rows, do not fasten off yarn.

MAIN BODY Row 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in each st to end, turn. [40 (43: 48: 51: 54) sts] Repeating Row 1, work 13 (17: 20: 21: 23) more rows. Fasten off.

LEG JOINING SIDES

Changing to a 4mm hook, rotate to work into row ends. Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), pick up and dc in each row end along ribbing, turn. [24 (26: 28: 30: 32) sts] Row 2 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, *tr in next st, 2tr in next st; rep from * across to last st, tr in last st, turn. [36 (39: 42: 45: 48) sts] Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in each st to end, turn. [36 (39: 42: 45: 48) sts] Repeating Row 3, work 5 (7: 8: 10: 11) more rows.

TENSION 16 sts and 9 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over treble crochet using a 4mm hook or size needed to achieve stated tension

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

With right sides tog sew Rib and Leg seam up to SM. Rep for 2nd leg. Place legs tog and sew Front and Back seam in one motion beg at top of the Front and sewing down under the crotch and up Back. BIB (BACK) With a 4mm hook and Yarn A, ch9. Foundation row (RS) Tr in 4th ch from hook, tr in next 4 ch, 6tr in last st, turn work and continuing down opposite side of ch, tr in next 4 ch, 2tr in last st, turn. [18 sts] Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 6 sts, (2tr in next st) 4 times, tr in next 7 sts, turn. [23 sts] Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 7 sts, (2tr in next st) 6 times, tr in next 9 sts, turn. [30 sts] Row 4 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next 10 sts,

LEG SHAPING

41.5 (47.5: 55.5: 59: 62.5)cm 16¼ (18¾: 21¾: 23¼: 24½)in

FRONT

25 (27: 30: 32: 34)cm 9¾ (10½: 11¾: 12½: 18¼)in Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Row 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st across to last st, 2tr in last st, turn. [38 (41: 44: 47: 50) sts] Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr into each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of

AGE FINISHED WAIST

Newborn

3 Months

6 Months

9 Months

12 Months

cm

50

54

60

64

67.5

in

19¾

21¼

23½

25

26½

FINISHED LENGTH EXCLUDING STRAPS

cm

41.5

47.5

55.5

59

62.5

in

16¼

18¾

22

23¼

24½

YARN A

50g

3

3

3

4

5

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 59

Baby dungar s (2tr in next st) 8 times, tr in next 11 sts, turn. [38 sts] Row 5 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next 11 sts, (2tr in next st) 3 times, tr in next 8 sts, (2tr in next st) 3 times, tr in next 12 sts, turn. [44 sts] For sizes 6 months, 9 months and 12 months only Row 6 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next 11 sts, (2tr into next st) 6 times, tr in next 8 sts, (2tr into next st) 6 times, tr in next 12 sts, turn. [56 sts] Fasten off. STRAPS Skip the first 16 (16: 22: 22: 22) sts on Bib, rejoin yarn with a ss in next st. Row 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next 11 sts, turn. Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next 5 sts, turn. (Place marker into foll st) Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next 5 sts, turn. Repeating Row 3, work 12 (13: 13: 14: 14) more rows. Rejoin yarn in marked st with a ss, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next 5 sts, turn. Row 4 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next 5 sts, turn. Repeating Row 3, work 12 (13: 13: 14: 14) more rows. Fasten off. BIB (FRONT) Repeat instructions for Bib (Back) to end of Row 5 (5: 6: 6: 6), do not fasten off. Row 7 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st to end. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. NOSE/PAWS (MAKE 3) With a 3.5mm hook and Yarn B, ch4. Rnd 1 (RS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next st, 5dc in last st, turn work and continuing down opposite side of ch, dc in next 2 sts, ss in ch-1 at beg of rnd. [9 sts] Rnd 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in next 3 sts, (2dc in next st) 3 times, dc in next 3 sts, ss in ch-1 at beg of rnd. [12 sts] Rnd 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in next 3 sts, (2dc in next st) 6 times, dc in next 3 sts, ss in ch-1 at beg of rnd. [18 sts] Rnd 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st around, ss into ch-1 at beg of rnd. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. EYES/PAW PRINTS (MAKE 10) With a 3.5mm hook and Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 10dc into ring, ss to first dc. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. 60 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

TAIL (MAKE 1) With a 4mm hook and Yarn B, make a magic loop. Rnd 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 11tr into loop, ss to top of beg ch-3. [12 sts] Rnd 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, 2tr into each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [24 sts] Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. EARS (MAKE 2) With a 4mm hook and Yarn B, make a magic loop. Row 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 8tr into loop, ss to top of beg ch-3. [9 sts] Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 2 sts, (2tr in next st) 3 times, tr in next 2 sts, 2tr in last st, turn. [14 sts] Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 3 sts, (2tr in next st) 6 times, tr in next 3 sts, 2tr in last st, turn. [22 sts] Row 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first st and each st around. [22 dc] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. TO MAKE UP Sew Bibs centrally onto front and back of

dungarees. Sew Nose, Eyes, Paws and Tail into place using the image as a guide. Using a small amount of orange yarn, surface crochet (or chain st with a tapestry needle) the Mouth onto face using image as a guide. Sew Press stud fasteners onto Straps and reverse of Bib, behind Ears. Run a small amount of shirring elastic through underarm sts to gather (if desired). Knot and secure elastic and weave in. Fold over ankle cuffs. Weave in all ends.

SAVE OR SPLURGE For a more budget-friendly make, you could use the following yarn: DROPS Cotton Light (50% cotton, 50% polyester, 105m/50g), 4 (4: 4: 5: 7) balls of Yarn A Pearl Grey (31), 2 (2: 2: 2: 2) balls in Yarn B Dark Grey (30) For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

READER PROMOTION

Come away with us! F Join us on our irst holidays...

ancy the idea of getting some serious crochet time in? We know we do! What could be better than sharing a holiday with like-minded souls, taking time to crochet, seeing some gorgeous sights and perhaps even learning some new skills along the way? This year, we are very excited to be working with Arena Travel on several holidays see below for details. The trip to Florence will have both knitting and crochet tutors, so why not bring a friend? (It’ll be fun for you both and save on single supplements too!) And I may even see you on the Christmas Markets Editor, cruise watch this space… Come and Simply Crochet join us – book your place today!

CHRISTMAS MARKETS

READER CRUISE

INCLUDES ALL THIS… • Travel dates 28 November-1 December • Return flights London Heathrow to Cologne/ Dusseldorf • 3 nights full-board stay on the 4* Switzerland cruise ship • Knitting and crochet workshops, with a kit included! • Explore Christmas Markets in Cologne, Koblenz, Boppard and Rudesheim • All visits as detailed in the itinerary • Coach transfers throughout • The services of an experienced Arena Travel Tour Manager

GERMANY

FLORENCE

FLORENCE

READER HOLIDAY

INCLUDES ALL THIS… • Travel dates 3-7 November • Return flights London Heathrow – Pisa • The company and knitting and crochet expertise of tutors Kirstie McLeod and Carol Meldrum • Knitting and crochet workshops with Kirstie and Carol, with a kit included! • 4 nights at the 4* Grand Hotel Baglioni on a bed and breakfast basis • All visits as detailed in the itinerary • Coach transfers throughout • The services of an experienced Arena Travel Tour Manager

YOU’LL GET ALL THIS FROM JUST

YOU’LL GET ALL THIS FROM JUST

£749 PER PERSON*

£1,289 PER PERSON*

To book or for more details, go to

To book or for more details, go to

www.stitchtopia.co.uk OR CALL 01473 660800

www.arenatravel.com/florence OR CALL 01473 660800

This holiday will be operated in partnership with Arena Travel. *Find full payment details and options at www.arenatravel.com. Please ensure you check this website for the latest details on all holidays.

Ticket Ofer: Quote SIMPCRO for £2.50 of*! Alexandra Palace, London 5th – 9th October 2016 Harrogate International Centre 24th- 27th November 2016 The deinitive event for anyone with a love of textile based crafts. Supplies, workshops and textile art. www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com 0844 581 1302 (+44 (0) 121 796 6100 from outside the UK) Image: Alice Kettle - Pause 2009 (detail) Photo: Joe Low

Workshops in association with:

UPPER STREET EVENTS by

*Valid on adult tickets in advance or £1 of concessions. £1.50 fulilment fee applies. For full terms and conditions visit the website.

NEW STITCH

l e i d s o t c i o t ch r C ver a new o c s i D

stitch and how to use it in eve ry issu e.

HOW-TO VIDEOS

Learnthisstitchatyoutube.com/ user/simplycrochetmag

BASIC CROCODILE STITCH PATTERN Chain a multiple of 6 plus 3. For the sample above, we worked ch33. Row 1 (RS) Tr into 3rd ch from hook (skipped ch counts as tr), *ch1, skip 2 ch, tr in next ch, ch1, skip 2 ch, 2tr in next ch; repeat from * to end. Row 2 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr), work 4tr around the post of the first tr, work 5 tr around the post of the next tr (this can be fiddly), ss to next tr, *5tr around post of next tr, 5 tr around post of next tr, ss to next tr; repeat from * to last 2 tr, 5tr around post of next tr, 4 tr around post of last tr, ch3, ss to

top of last tr. [6 crocodile scales] Row 3 (RS) Ch2 (does not count as st), 2tr in sp between scales, ch1, *tr in sp between tr pair at the centre of the scale, ch1, 2tr in sp between scales, ch1, rep from * to end, omitting final ch1. Row 4 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr), work 4tr around the post of the first tr, work 5 tr around the post of the next tr, ss to next tr, *5tr around post of next tr, 5tr around post of next tr, ss to next tr; rep from * to end, omitting final ss. [5 crocodile scales] Row 5 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, ch1, *tr in sp at centre of scale, ch1,

2tr in sp between scales, ch1; rep from * end working last 2tr into top of beg ch-3 from Row 4 and omitting final ch1. Rows 2 to 5 form pattern. Rep Rows 2-5 until piece is desired length, ending with a Row 2 or Row 4. Patterns by Emma Friedlander-Collins.

Tun the page fo moe ceative idea uing thi patten.

N w stitch Petal potholder As a place mat, potholder or doily this teatime accessory earns its keep. Q Stylecraft Special DK (100% acrylic,

100g/295m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Petrol (1708), Yarn B Storm Blue (1722), Yarn C Duck Egg (1820), Yarn D Spice (1711) This is enough yarn for both projects For yarn stockists contact Stylecraft 01535 609798 www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook

MEASUREMENTS 20cm (7¾in) diameter POTHOLDER Using Yarn C, make a magic loop. Rnd 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), 6dc into loop, ss to first dc to join. [6 dc] Rnd 2 Ch1, 2dc in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. [12 dc] Rnd 3 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, dc in next dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [18 dc] Rnd 4 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 2 dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [24 dc] Rnd 5 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 3 dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [30 dc] Rnd 6 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 4 dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [36 dc] Rnd 7 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 5 dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [42 dc] Rnd 8 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 6 dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [48 dc] Fasten off Yarn C, join Yarn D. Rnd 9 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 7 dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [54 dc] Fasten off Yarn D, join Yarn C. Rnd 10 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 8 dc) around, ss to first dc to join. [60 dc] Rnd 11 Ch6 (counts as tr and ch3), skip 2 sts, *2tr in next st, ch3, skip 2 sts, tr in next st, ch3, skip 2 sts; repeat from * around to last 3 sts, 2tr in next st, ch3, skip 2 sts, ss to 3rd ch of beg ch-6. Fasten off. Rnd 12 Rejoin yarn at base of a lone tr, *5tr around post of next tr, 5tr around post of next tr, ss in base of next tr; rep from * around. Fasten off. Rnd 13 Join Yarn B to top of first tr from Rnd 11, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in same st, ch4, Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Crocodile stitch is a yarn-hungry one, but the results are pretty impressive – get a load of those scrummy scales. We’ve used an ombre colour effect to highlight the tempting texture.

tr in sp between next 2 tr, ch4, *2tr in next tr, ch4, tr in sp between next 2 tr, ch4; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. Rnd 14 Work as Rnd 12. Rnd 15 Join Yarn A to top of a lone tr from Rnd 13, ch4 (counts as dtr), dtr in same st, ch5, dtr in sp between next 2 tr, ch5, *2dtr in next tr, ch5, dtr in sp between next 2 tr, ch5; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-4. Fasten off. Rnd 12 Rejoin yarn at base of a lone dtr, *7tr around post of next dtr, 7tr around post of next dtr, ss in base of next dtr; rep from * around. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Ombre Tea cosy Tea cosies should be fun, frivolous and topped with a pompom, always. Q Stylecraft Special DK (100% acrylic,

100g/295m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Petrol (1708), Yarn B Storm Blue (1722), Yarn C Duck Egg (1820), Yarn D Spice (1711) (this is enough yarn for both projects) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook

MEASUREMENTS 16cm (6¼in) tall, 36cm (14in) circumference, to fit 2-cup teapot TEA COSY Using Yarn A, ch69. Rows 1-6 Follow Basic Pattern. [Alternating 11 and 10 crocodile scales] Fasten off Yarn A, join Yarn B. Rows 7-10 Follow Basic Pattern. Row 11 Ch2 (does not count as st), (2tr in

sp between scales, ch1, tr in sp between tr pair at the centre of the scale, ch1) 5 times, 2tr in sp between scales, ch3, skip centre of next scale, 2tr in sp between scales (spout hole made), ch1, (tr in sp between tr pair at centre of scale, ch1, 2tr in sp between scales, ch1) 5 times, omitting final ch1. Row 12 Ch3 (counts as first tr), work 4tr around the post of the first tr, work 5 tr around the post of the next tr, ss to next tr, (5tr around post of next tr, 5tr around post of next tr, ss to next tr) 3 times, 5tr around post of next tr, 5tr around post of next tr, skip 1 ch, ss to next ch, skip next ch, (5tr around post of next tr, 5tr around post of next tr, ss in next st) 6 times, omitting final ss. Fasten off Yarn B, join Yarn C. Rows 13-15 Starting with a Row 5, follow Basic Pattern. Row 16 Ch3 (counts as first tr), work 4tr around the post of the first tr, work 5 tr around the post of the next tr, ss to next tr, *5tr around post of next tr, 5tr around post of next tr, ss to next tr; rep from * to last pair of tr, 5tr around post of next tr, 4 tr around post of next tr, ch3, ss to top of last tr. Row 17 Work as for Row 3 of Basic Pattern. [2 scales decreased] Rows 18-22 Rep Rows 16-17. Fasten off leaving a long tail. Sew tog the sides of the bottom row and the sides of the top five rows, leaving a gap for the handle. Place the long tail onto a tapestry needle and weave into the sts around the top edge. Draw tight to close the cosy. Fasten off securely. Make a pompom using Yarn D and sew to top of cosy. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 65

When crochet designer Marinke Slump passed away in 2015, the Scheepjes CAL she’d begun to design became a memorial to her beautiful spirit.

D

utch yarn manufacturer Scheepjes has a team of bloggers who regularly produce projects via their blogs and the company Facebook page, www. facebook.com/scheepjes. In 2014, Marinke Slump, aka Wink, designed Scheepjes’ first ever crochet-along, or CAL, and it was a huge success. “We had no idea if this project would be popular, but Marinke took the idea and ran with it,” says Simy Somer, Scheepjes Creative Director. “It far exceeded our expectations and proved to us that our customers wanted more projects like this.” Then, in 2015, Marinke pitched an idea for a beach-themed crochet-along, and this became Scheepjes’ 2016 CAL, Last Dance on the Beach. “Marinke came to the Scheepjes HQ and presented her ideas and initial designs for the CAL,” says Simy. “She explained how she herself found the beach a source of comfort when times were bad, how she liked to walk on the beach not only in the sunshine, inspired by shells and sea glass, but also on rainy days when the colours were grey and subdued, and in the evening at sunset.” It was a beautiful theme, but tragically Marinke took her own life before she could finish the project. “After the funeral, we spoke closely with her family who very much wanted the project to continue in her name,” says Simy. “Scheepjes were more than happy to support their wishes and make this CAL a tribute to Marinke’s creative light while raising 66 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

awareness of mental illness and raising money for mental health charity MIND.” With the family’s agreement, Scheepjes approached 12 bloggers who knew or had worked alongside Marinke, to finish her design. “We wanted to complete this project as a respectful tribute to Marinke,” says Simy. “It was a difficult process, because she was not there to answer design questions and because we all loved her, so it was a heavy task.” The bloggers put their hearts and skills into the project, coming up with 12 wonderful crochet squares based around the blanket’s beach theme while encompassing some of their memories of Marinke. The CAL has already attracted more than 30,000 people covering all corners of the world. You can still take part by downloading the crochet patterns from www.scheepjes. com and http://bit.ly/2bQ3kJx Read on to find out more about the designers who contributed their time and energy to Marinke’s final project, and what it means to them.

Week 1 ESTHER DE BEER Esther is a freelance journalist living in Utrecht, Holland, and finds her job fuels her crochet. “I travel a lot for work and love visiting yarn and fabric shops abroad to see what inspires people all over the world. Throughout designing this project I was hoping to do

Clockwise from above left: Marinke Slump; The Dance under the Stars blanket colourway, photograph by Scheepjes; Week 2 square by Kirsten Ballering, photograph by Scheepjes; Week 1 square by Esther de Beer; Week 3 squares by Tatsiana Kupryianchyk Week 4 square by Atty van Norel.

CLOC KWI SE FRO M TOP LEFT: ESTHER DE BEE R; KIRS TATSIANA KUPRYIANCH YK, ATTY VAN NORTEN BALLERI NG; EL.

Clockwise from top left: Week 5 square by Nerissa Muijs; Week 6 squares by Carmen Jorissen; Week 8 square by Jellina Verhoeff; Week 7 squares by Maria McPherson.

justice to Marinke’s talent and ideas,” she says. “She wanted to spread her enthusiasm for crochet to other people, and with this project I hope to bring people together to find joy in crochet. As long as her designs are still made, Marinke will not be forgotten.” Esther’s design was released in the first week of the CAL, and was inspired by Marinke’s 2014 CAL. “In the second week we made a square using a popcorn stitch, which I really loved. Because Marinke’s theme for this blanket was the beach, I kept thinking about seaweed and took my design from there. The popcorn stitch forms the stalks.” Esther relishes using popcorn stitch herself. “It’s fun to do and gives structure to a crochet project. Once the blanket is finished and you’re tucked underneath you can really feel what you’ve done.” Esther also enjoys the fact that her design has allowed people to “let their imaginations run free,” and see their own sea theme in the motif. “Although I went with a kelp design, people thought they were mussels, cockles, sea grass and even sea grapes!” www.happyinred.blogspot.co.uk 68 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Week 2 KIRSTEN BALLERING Kirsten lives with her yarn and boyfriend in an apartment in the Netherlands. She started crocheting during a college exchange in Stockholm. “I was looking for a hobby, and after three weeks of constant arguing with my crochet hook, it suddenly clicked. I’ve been crocheting ever since!” The CAL project means a lot to Kirsten. “Marinke was one of my first crochet friends and has been a huge inspiration for me from the moment I saw her designs,” she says. “We had crochet dates where we’d go to watch a film and crochet at the same time. The bad news was very unexpected to me, because at that time I had no idea she was in such a dark place. She was the kind of girl who was always cheerful, and made others around her feel happy and loved. By making this blanket I’m remembering Marinke and the burden she carried but also the fact that crochet can work as a therapy and heal people.” Kirsten’s design uses star stitch and was released in week two of the CAL. “This stitch reminds me of sea stars, so it fits the theme

perfectly,” she says. “I also remember Marinke saying she loved this stitch when it came up on one of our crochet dates so it seemed appropriate to use it for her blanket. The border of the motif is the same for each square, so mine also uses double crochet to make joining easier when you put the blanket together.” www.haakmaarraak.nl

Week 3 TATSIANA KUPRYIANCHYK Tatsiana is the designer behind Lilla Björn Crochet. She studied journalism and opera singing, edited a magazine and sang in a choir, but crochet has always been the greatest passion of her life. She learned when she was five years old, and now her hobby is her day job. She enjoys creating new designs, combining colours and drawing with yarn. “When I was contacted by Scheepjes about this project I didn’t hesitate for a single second. I just knew I wanted to be a part of it,” she says. “This CAL is filled with so many feelings. Unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to know Marinke in person, but I believe participating and following this CAL will help

GOOD READ make a square with big waves. “For a lot of people the beach is a place to calm down, relax and refresh themselves, watching the waves. I feel like those waves symbolise the ups and downs in our lives – they come and they go. I made them big for Marinke because her life was rough. “Wink was a beautiful person. I really looked up to her and enjoyed her blog – it inspired me to start my own. We talked on Facebook and she complimented me on my projects, which made me feel proud. It’s nice when your work is liked by somebody you admire.” Atty’s square was released in week four of the CAL. “It uses the basic stitches from chains to triple treble crochet stitches and some rows are crocheted only in the front or back loops. I wanted to show people what a great effect you can get with just simply placing stitches in the front and back loops.” www.atty-s.blogspot.co.uk

Week 5

TOP TO BOT TOM: NERISSA MUIJS ; CARMEN JORISSEN; MARI A MCPH ERSO N; JELLI NA VERH OEFF me to reconnect with her in some way. For me, it’s about not being alone – it’s about hope and love, for the sea and for each other.” She adds: “Wink’s idea was to create a space for educational adventure, to work with structure and texture, and to teach different crochet techniques. I therefore decided to develop this in my design.” Tatsiana’s ‘Sunset in the Waves’ square appeared in week three of the CAL, and it uses front post stitches and clusters. “As I imagined it, front post stitches would make textured waves, and clusters would be suns going down into the waves. Last year I saw a sunset by the sea for the first time. It was beautiful.” www.lillabjorncrochet. com

Week 4 ATTY VAN NOREL Atty was taught to crochet by her grandmother when she was eight. “I learned the basics and then I tried to copy her doilies. When my first daughter was born, I picked it up again and crocheted all kinds of creations.” On being invited to design a square for the CAL, Atty knew at once that she wanted to Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

NERISSA MUJIS Nerissa is an Australian expat living in the Netherlands. “I grew up in a family of woolgrowers in South Australia and lived and breathed sheep for most of my young life. I learned to knit, crochet and spin as a child, but forgot all about it until I was pregnant. It was then that I picked up a hook again – I haven’t stopped since! I love being a designer.” When Nerissa discovered Marinke’s work for the first time, she was enchanted. “Then I learned we lived quite close to one another, and it was as though we were destined to be friends. When she died, the news hit me like a ton of bricks. It was much harder than I could have imagined.” Then the opportunity arose to design a square for week five of the CAL. “I couldn’t say no. The beach is my happy place. I was inspired by footprints in the wet sand left by birds at low tide.” Nerissa’s blanket square is based on a half treble, with seagull stitch creating the impression of the footprints. “It’s a modified spike stitch which captures bird footprints perfectly. I wanted to keep it simple, yet introduce makers to a technique that they may have never tried before.” She adds: “I love what this collaboration has given to so many people all over the world –

people who have been struggling with illness, people who loved Wink. It has brought us together through crochet.” www.missneriss.com

Week 6 CARMEN JORISSEN Carmen’s blog name, Crafty Queens, is inspired by the creative women in her family – “they are my crafty queens!” Although she loves many crafts, she admits to being really into crochet at the moment. “I find the making process empowering and strive to teach as many people as possible how to create something with their own hands!” She admits that the CAL blanket was a very emotional project, “not just because of the memory of Wink, but for everyone who struggles with depression. It was important to get everything right, and this, of course, put quite some pressure on everyone. However, we didn’t let it overwhelm us, and it turned out just the way we hoped. I think Wink would be very pleased to see so many people joining a CAL because of her.” When brainstorming possible square designs, Carmen had her heart set on a challenging stitch pattern, “but no matter how I tried, I couldn’t get it the desired size. Instead, I chose C2C or corner-to-corner stitch, a simple stitch with a very interesting texture.” The result is like sand the surf has just drawn back from, leaving behind a dapple of bubbles and tiny scales. “My aim with this design was to embrace simplicity,” says Carmen. “The design process for this CAL taught me not to be so hard on myself! As it turned out, people were really pleased with the square design, and I was so happy to read all the positive reactions.” www.craftyqueens.nl

“I love what this crochet project has given to so many people all over the world.”

Week 7 MARIA MCPHERSON Maria lives in Northumberland, England, and has been interested in craft for as long as she can remember. “This led me to discovering crochet. With the help of a friend and sheer determination, I finally mastered the dark art of hooking! I adore colour, especially if it’s combined with clever designs. It’s fascinating how colour can make or break a project.” Maria was devastated to hear of Marinke’s death. “I was aware that, prior to her death, WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 69

Wink was working on another CAL, this time focusing on texture, so I was delighted to be able to help finish what she started.” Maria’s square appeared in week seven, and was inspired by the Northumbrian coastline close to where she lives. “Whenever I visit the beach, I always draw a heart in the sand. Hearts signify so much! Wink was a lady with a very big heart and she was always happy to help and to share her knowledge. It seemed to be a fitting design for my square.” The square is made up of double crochet stitches with bobble stitches to make the heart motif. “I wanted to show that once you have mastered the basics of the design, it’s fairly easy to design different motifs with the help of squared paper. I’ve really enjoyed seeing everyone’s different versions – there have been stars, anchors, boats and initials, to name but a few!” www.justahappyhooker.blogspot.co.uk

protection and comfort that this crochetalong, and crocheting in general, provides.” Jellina’s design uses waffle stitch. “It’s a stitch with a lot of texture – I love it! It looks very difficult but when you master the technique it’s a very fast stitch to crochet.” www.jellina-creations.nl

Week 9 DEDRI UYS Dedri lives in London with her husband (who she has taught to crochet), her sons and the family cat, Kettle. “Having abandoned crochet as a child, I started up again when I was pregnant with my second son six years ago, and I haven’t looked back!” she says. Dedri is probably best known for Sophie’s Universe (a continuous square blanket with a large floral centre) and her Amamani patterns (balls and animals based on the traditional Amish puzzle ball). She’s currently working on her fourth book. “Marinke was one of my biggest crochet idols,” she explains. “She exuded so much joy! Her designs had a massive impact on my life and creative journey, and I wanted to honour her memory and her love of crochet by contributing one of the squares for the CAL.” Dedri’s blanket square design was inspired by the prints little crabs make in the sand as they scurry along. “It’s not necessarily the first thing you think of when you imagine the seaside, but it’s the first thing I look for if I’m at the beach before anyone else in the morning, when the sand is still undisturbed except for those tiny little prints.” The square, which was released in week nine of the CAL, is made up of a one-row repeat using a simple crochet cable stitch. www.lookatwhatimade.net

“Wink had a very big heart and she was always happy to help and share her knowledge.”

Week 8 JELLINA VERHOEFF Jellina describes herself as a creative woman, married with three sons, “which means we have a very male-dominated family.” To balance out the masculinity that surrounds her, Jellina enjoys a wide variety of crafts and pastimes. “At the moment, my focus is crochet, but I like to do a lot of other creative things such as painting and art journaling.” She began designing her own crochet for the freedom it allows. “I cannot crochet from patterns because I’m quite opinionated!” For Jellina, the Last Dance on the Beach CAL offered a chance to reconnect with Marinke. “We were finally going to meet face-to-face in real life, which I was looking forward to because I found her very inspiring. But then came the phone call. When the opportunity came to help finish her design, I felt honoured to join the project.” Living in Zeeland, the westernmost province of the Netherlands, inspired Jellina’s crochet-along square design. “We are surrounded by the sea here, and in 1953, a large part of Zeeland disappeared under the water, so I chose a stitch that makes me think about the sea barrier. A sea wall ensures that people can feel safe. Somehow I associated it with the theme of this CAL due, I think, to the 70 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Week 10 SARAH KNIGHT Sarah began blogging in 2011. “Although my primary craft is knitting, I also crochet (a lot!), sew, spin and dabble in all sorts of things.” Marinke and Sarah became online friends via their blogs. “We’d help each other out with proof reading and pattern testing, and our friendship spilled into the real world,” Sarah says. “My family looked forward to her visits.” Seeking inspiration for her square, Sarah browsed through photos of holidays in

Cornwall, and was struck by the play of light on water in a rock pool. “The light filtering through in not-quite-perfect parallel lines reminded me of camel stitch.” Her square came out in week ten of the crochet-along. “It has a side-to-side construction, and the stitches are worked in a way which forces the top ‘V’ of each half-treble to the right side of the motif.” Sarah admits it was daunting to get involved in the project, “but of course this was the last thing I could do for Wink – our final project ‘together’. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to contribute.” She adds: “It’s very bittersweet – I really wish Wink could see how much she meant to so many thousands of people around the world. I’m incredibly proud to have called her my friend, and to see how her ability to inspire lives on.” www.craftsfromthecwtch.com

Week 11 ANNELIES BAES Freelance crochet designer Annelies believes that “everything is possible in crochet, and

Clockwise from top left: Scheepjes CAL squares – Dedri’s week 9 square is on top in yellow, photograph by Dedri Uys; Week 10 square by Sarah Knight; Week 11 square by Annelies Baes, photograph by Scheepjes; Week 12 square by Tammy Canavan-Soldaat, photograph by Scheepjes.

UYS ; SARAH KNI GHT; CLO CKW ISE FRO M TOP LEFT: DED RI AVAN-S OLDAAT. ANN ELIE S BAES; TAMMY CAN

crochet makes everything possible!” She loves to make trendy, versatile garments, especially crochet shawls. For Annelies, the Scheepjes CAL project offered her the opportunity to remember and honour Wink, who she describes as “a great and talented crocheter. Marinke Slump was a fantastic lady and she is sadly missed.” Annelies’ blanket square design came about thanks to a chance comment from her son. “A few days after Marinke passing away, our youngest son saw her picture on my computer screen and said: ‘Marinke looks like a fairy’. He was right.” When she started work on her square design, Annelies “couldn’t stop thinking about a dancing fairy.” She poured that idea into her ‘Dancing Bobbles’ motif. “To me, dancing represents emotions, which reflect life. You can choose how you want to dance – gently, or wildly. It’s all movement. That’s what I wanted to share with my CAL motif.” Annelies’ textured square design appeared in week 11 of the CAL and uses bobbles, Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

chains, and double crochet stitches. “It is quite an easy square,” she comments. “It’s all about the refined details – the structure and the delicate lacy openings.” For Annelies, the CAL is more than a tribute to Marinke and her creativity. “It’s also about 12 bloggers, 12 friends, putting their creativity and passion into a unique piece of art, together with Scheepjes. The fact that so many people all over the world are making these blankets makes me happy.” www.en-vicarno.com

Week 12 TAMMY CANAVAN-SOLDAAT Tammy is originally from Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia, Canada, and has been living in the Netherlands with her Dutch husband since 1999. “We currently live in Rotterdam with our two spoiled little dogs!” she says. “I’m a bit of a Jack-of-all-trades when it comes to crafts, as I like to dabble in everything, but I always come back to yarn.” For Tammy, the CAL project was an opportunity to finish what Marinke had

started “and help see this project through for her. I think it was also a way for those of us in the Scheepjes bloggers’ group to work together and get through the loss. She has left a void in our group and it was a way to process and keep her with us a little longer.” Tammy’s square design appeared in week 12, and is the final square in the Scheepjes Last Dance on the Beach crochet-along. It uses mainly half trebles and slip stitches and is worked in the back loop of the stitches. “I’m always mesmerised by the patterns that the sun and wind create in the sand on the beach,” Tammy says. She explains, “whether it’s the reflection of the sun underwater or the wind in the dunes, there’s always a pattern of ripples and waves that catches my eye. I tried to recreate that idea in my own square. My aim was to have a square that shows a lot of texture, and the stitch I’ve used creates a rather three-dimensional effect that looks really cool.” www.canadutch.nl Written by Judy Darley The CAL instructions include patterns, charts and links to video so even beginners can join in. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 71

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Harvest festival Welcome the new season with Kate Eastwood’s autumn decoration, abundant with hooky critters.

EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

Hedgehogs, turning leaves, pumpkins and sweet harvest mice – this delightful decoration is brimming with autumnal charm. It’s worked onto a wire and raffia base and can be styled as a wreath or garland. Beats a horn of plenty any day.

YOU WILL NEED

NOTES

DMC Natura Just Cotton (100% cotton, 50g/155m), 2 balls of each: Curry (N74), Moss Green (N75), Brique (N86) 1 ball of each: Forêt (N46), Ombre (N39), Lin (N78), Safran (N47) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q 2 x 50g Natural raffia Q Florist wire Q String Q Small amount of black embroidery thread/thin yarn for eyes/noses Q White cotton thread for whiskers Q Small of amount of toy stuffing Q Needle and thread For yarn stockists contact DMC 0116 275 4000 www.dmccreative.co.uk

The Garland frame is made from a couple of lengths of raffia that are twisted into the correct shape and then held in place with florist wire. Each crochet item is held in place by simple tacking stitches using a needle and thread.

Q

MEASUREMENTS Finished garland measures approx 132cm (52in) long Individual items range from 2.5cm (1in) long for pinecones to 13cm (5in) long for Large Sycamore Leaves

ABBREVIATIONS Ch-3 picot ch3, ss into first of those ch For a full list, see page 92

GARLAND FRAME Lay the two lengths of raffia together on a long flat surface and line them up as much as possible. Tie a large knot in one end. Cut a piece of florist wire one and half to two times the length of your raffia. Push one end of the wire into the knotted end of the raffia to hold it in place. Now holding both the wire and the raffia together, start twisting the two to make a rope. Make sure you wind the wire around the raffia rope as you make your way down the length of the raffia. As you near the end of the raffia, cut your wire to the same length and tie a second knot in the end of the raffia. You will now have a long raffia rope that you are able to mould into shape. Trim both ends of the Raffia to neaten it up and then wrap some string around the rope, next to the knot. This will not only give the ends extra strength but it also allows you to form a couple of hanging loops. PLAIN LEAF Make 7 in Forêt and 7 in Curry. Ch15. Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end. Ch1, 13dc on other side of foundation ch, ss to first dc. [27 sts] Round 2 Work around the Leaf as follows with one st in each st of the previous round: 2dc, 3htr, 4tr, 3htr, 2dc, ss in next st at tip, 2dc, 3htr, tr, 3htr, 2dc, ss to first st to join. To make the stalk, ch8 and then ss back along the ch to the base of the leaf. Round 3 As the previous round without the stalk, working (dc, ch4, ss to first ch, dc) into the ss at the tip of the leaf, finishing with a ss in the top of the stalk. SYCAMORE LEAF Vary the colour and size of the leaves by

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The hedgehog prickles are created by sewing loops onto the body and snipping them.

working with one or two strands of yarn. The two-stranded leaves can be made with a strand of each of two different shades. Make the following: 22 leaves with 1 strand of yarn using Curry, Moss Green or Brique. 7 leaves with 2 strands of yarn using Curry, Moss Green or Brique. 7 leaves with 2 strands using a combination of Brique and Moss Green, Brique and Curry, Curry and Moss Green. Make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch2 (does not count as st), 10tr into the loop, ss to first tr. [10 sts] Round 2 Work one of the following pairs of sts in each st of the previous round: (ch1, dc), (dc, htr), (htr, tr), (2tr), (tr, dtr), (2dtr), (dtr, tr), (2tr), (tr, htr), (htr, dc). Ss in beg ch-1 to join. To make the stalk, ch8 and then ss back along the ch to the base of the leaf. [19 sts not including the beg ch-1 and the stalk] Round 3 Lobe 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), (dc, htr) in st at base of ch, (2tr, ch-3 picot, 2tr) in next st, (htr, dc) in next st Lobe 2 (dc, htr) in next st, (tr, 3dtr, ch-3 picot) in next st, (3dtr, tr) in next st, (htr, dc) in next st Lobe 3 (dc, tr) in next st, (dtr, 3ttr, ch-3 picot) in next st, (3ttr, dtr) in next st), (tr, dc) in next st Lobe 4 Repeat Lobe 2 Lobe 5 Repeat Lobe 1, ss in next st. Fasten off and weave in ends. PUMPKIN (MAKE 3) With Safran, ch21. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [20 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), working in back loops only, dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 3-30 As Row 2. Fasten off leaving a long tail. Sew the last row to the foundation ch with the long tail of yarn to form a tube with the

Autumn gar and RS on the inside. Sew a running thread along one of the long edges. Pull up the running thread to close one end of the pumpkin. Turn RS out and stuff. Run another line of running stitch along the other long edge of the pumpkin and pull to close, adding stuffing as needed and leaving a small hole for the Stalk. Stitch securely to hold. Fasten off and weave in ends.

STALK With Forêt, ch8. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [7 sts] Rows 2-5 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st to end, turn. Fasten off leaving a long tail. Roll the Stalk into a tube shape and sew in place with the tail of the yarn. Place the Stalk in to the small hole left at the top of the pumpkin and sew into place. PINECONES Make 16 in either Ombre or Lin. Ch30. (Tr in third ch from hook, ch-3 picot) repeat in each ch to last ch, dc in last ch. Fasten off leaving a long tail. Starting at the beginning of your strip of crochet begin winding it into a spiral/ pinecone shape. Holding it securely, use the long tail of yarn to sew the spiral in to place. Use the remaining yarn to sew a small loop at the bottom of the pinecone. FIELD MOUSE (MAKE 3) Continue working in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round, moving it up as you work. With Lin, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 4dc into the loop. Round 2 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) twice. [6 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) twice. [8 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) twice. [10 sts] Round 5 Dc in each st around. Round 6 (2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts) twice. [12 sts] Round 7 6dc, *(ss, ch2, 4tr, ch2, ss) in front loop only of next st (Ear made), 2dc; rep from * to end. [10 sts and 2 Ears] Round 8 Dc in each st around, working in Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Join the ends to make a wreath, or hang it as a garland.

the remaining back loop of the sts behind the Ears. [12 sts] Round 9 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 3 times, 6dc. [15 sts] Round 10 (2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts) 3 times. [18 sts] Rounds 11-15 Dc in each st around. Round 16 (Dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts) 3 times. [15 sts] Round 17 When you get to the centre back of the Mouse during this round, ch18, ss in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch and st at base of ch to form a Tail: (Dc2tog, dc in each of next 3 sts) 3 times. [12 sts and Tail] Round 18 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts] Fasten off leaving a long tail of yarn. Stuff the mouse and run a gathering thread using the tail of yarn around the bottom of the mouse and pull to close. Secure. Fasten off. Using a small amount of black wool or embroidery thread sew on two eyes. Using white cotton, sew a few loops of cotton through the mouse’s nose, and then snip to make the whiskers. HEDGEHOG (MAKE 2) As the Hedgehog is designed to be poking his head out from under the leaves this pattern is just for the Hedgehog’s Head. Continue working in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round, moving it up as you work. With Ombre, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the ring. Round 2 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st)

3 times. [9 sts] Round 3 (Dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [12 sts] Round 4 (Dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [15 sts] Round 5 Dc in each st around. Round 6 (Dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [18 sts] Round 7 Dc in each st around. Round 8 6dc, *(ss, ch2, tr, ch2, ss) in front loop only of next st**, (Ear made), 4dc, rep from * to ** for second Ear, 6dc. [16 sts and 2 Ears] Round 9 Dc in each st around. [18 sts] Round 10 (Dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [21 sts] Round 11 (Dc in next 6 sts, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [24 sts] Rounds 12-14 Dc in each st around. Fasten off leaving a long tail of yarn. Stuff the Hedgehog’s Head and using a needle and the yarn tail sew the back seam together. Working on the part of the Head behind the Ears and using Lin, sew several loops of yarn all over the Hedgehog. Fasten off the yarn and snip each loop to make the prickles. Using thin black wool or embroidery thread sew on two eyes and a nose. TO MAKE UP Lay the raffia rope on a flat surface and working from the centre out, place the leaves roughly symmetrically. Pin them in place and sew securely using a needle and thread, working from the back of the garland. Pin the other items in place and sew. Hanging loops of wire or string can be attached to the back of the garland. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 75

YARN REVIEWS

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y a n r o e ns N

our selection of h t i w t h o brig

vivid shades

LIGHTNING BOLT MOTIF Ch17. ROW 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, htr in next 2 ch, 4tr in next ch, htr in next 2 ch, tr3tog over next 3 ch, htr in next 2 ch, tr in next 2 ch, dtr in next 2 ch, turn. [17 sts] ROW 2 Ch4 (does not count as st), dtr in first 2 sts, tr in next 2 sts, htr in next st, tr3tog over next 3 sts, htr in next 2 sts, 4tr in next st, htr in next 3 sts, dc in next 2 sts, ss in last st. Fasten off.

Brighten up a bag o  tee

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for you r

mak es.

Yarn r vi ws Conway & Bliss Cleo

caron simply soft

WEIGHT Aran CONTENT 62% cotton, 32% polyamide BALL50g/90m HOOK 5mm RRP £4.95

WEIGHT Aran CONTENT 100% acrylic BALL 170g/288m HOOK 5mm RRP £3.99

Soft, smooth and stretchy, there’s loads of potential in this fun, fashion-forward yarn. It has a chainette construction, a squashy, rounded feel and it’s so easy to work with that you could crochet almost anything with it. The durability makes it great for homewares, while the

12 bold colours are perfect for adding wow factor to a garment – the stitch definition makes it perfect for trendy accessories, or put this cool and stretchy cotton to work by hooking up some sportswear. www.designeryarns.uk.com 01535 664222

For a truly eye-popping, high-visibility yarn, this is the best of the bunch – the colours glow so bright, it’s easy to imagine there’s real neon in there. Simply Soft always lives up to its name with a fuzzy halo and light feel that makes it easy to hook with. There are a

whopping 60 colours in the range, including five day-glo shades. Any of these lurid colours would be perfect for Hallowe’en goodies and making accessories for runners and cyclists to help them be seen. www.yarnspirations.com 01484 950630

King Cole Moments

BergÈre de France Barisienne

WEIGHT DK CONTENT 100% polyester BALL 50g/90m HOOK 4mm RRP £1.79

WEIGHT DK CONTENT 100% acrylic SKEIN 50g/140m HOOK 4mm RRP £2.20

King Cole’s soft and fluffy eyelash yarn is easier to hook than you might think – just feel your way to the next stitch and you probably won’t even know if you make a mistake! The yarn has a lovely sheen and depth of colour that comes from the way the light catches it. The

Moments range includes 31 colours, around 10 of which are vivid, with evocative names such as Lipstick, Lime and Electric. We’d use it for edgings, toy making or small accessories such as boot toppers. www.kingcole.co.uk 01756 703670

A fantastic all-rounder, this is a standard DK-weight yarn, which means it’s easy to incorporate a neon flair into your projects – we’re thinking luminous stripes, bright spots and highlighted hems and cuffs. It’s light and soft with a fibrous halo, and flows

rico design essentials big

Masaki Arare

WEIGHT Super-chunky CONTENT 50% virgin wool, 50% acrylic BALL 50g/ 48m HOOK 7-8mm RRP £3.49

WEIGHT Chunky CONTENT 100% wool BALL 40g/40m HOOK 6-8mm RRP £8.25

If you can’t wait to go neon, grab one of these super chunky balls and you can cover yourself in glory overnight. Essentials Big benefits is light, cosy and fluffy to the touch. It’s made of 14 smaller strands twisted together, making it strong, but there’s not much stretch and Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

you have to be careful not to split it. As well as green, you could also choose fluoro yellow, orange or pink, plus there are 26 more modest colours that you can combine it with. Perfect for accessories and homewares to brighten up your winter. www. rico-design.co.uk

The most subtle of our vibrant little darlings, Arare still has plenty to shout about. Made by a relative newcomer to the UK yarn scene, the soft and fuzzy lengths include random flashes of bright yellow, pink, blue, orange and green on a contrasting background. This

effortlessly over the hook. Barisienne comes in 32 colours, three of which are deliciously fluorescent. It’s good value for money and easy to care for (machine wash at 30˚C) so it’s a fab choice for crocheting bright and fun treats for kids. www.bergeredefrance.co.uk

allows you to dip your toe into the trend rather than going all-out neon. The cosy roving yarn comes in five colours, each with eye-catching flecks – we’d love to use it for stitching up chunky winter warmers. www.loopknittingshop.com 020 7288 1160 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 77

Show us yours Join our gang of Treble Makers and share your thoughts and makes with us, for a chance to be featured here, use our #sctreblemaker hashtag.

BACK FOR GOOD

WINNER!

W Steph Longden

told us, “I’m really pleased with how my jacket is coming along, just the elbow bits to stitch on now (not my favourite occupation!). From issue 46. Thank you, I love the pattern.” You’re welcome, Steph. This is going to be a showstopper, we reckon.

MAKE A SPLASH

T

he amigurumi mermaid by Ilaria Caliri from issue 32 is proving ever-popular. Reader Dulcie O’Shea liked the pattern so much she hooked two of them and took them with her to the beach! Such fantastic attention to detail. Aren’t they super? We just can’t decide which one we like the best.

DOUBLE TAP

We’ve been double tapping on Instagram and admiring your makes. Tag us @simplycrochetmag and use the hashtag #SCtreblemaker. HIT THE BEACH Is anyone else missing summer already? Here’s @ thefoxdenstudio working on our issue 46 stripy jumper in Wollacombe, Devon. We love how her flipflops match her WIP. SUPER STRIPES Here’s a splendid finished version of the issue 46 stripy jumper by @jojotwinkletoes – it’s wonderful to see you lovely readers wearing your completed makes with such WINNER! pride. Great job.

BerNard AppRoves You know a project is good when it gets the seal of approval from your pets. Keen hookster Lorna Clark shared this super-cute picture of her cat Bernard and her completed cat cave make, saying, “Could not be happier with how my new cat basket turned out. Bernard could not wait to get in and was in it even before it was finished!!! Have to make another quickly for my other cat! Pattern worked up really fast, had it done in a weekend. Pattern from issue 43.” We’re with you there, Bernard, it’s a great project.

THE LOWDOWN It’s simple to be in with a chance of winning one of three great hooky prizes next issue! Show us your Simply Crochet makes on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or via email or post by 5 September 2016. For all the terms and conditions, and more information, visit www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/competitionrules

LADY IN RED @nixbits66 made her lacy issue 47 You’re Golden shawl in a bold red shade. Look how many different ways you can wear it. We’ve got some love for Bertha, her doily covered mannequin, too.

win

@SIMPLYCROCHET

BRIGHT BEAUTY Creative reader Hazel Harrison emailed us this wonderful picture of her newly inished hexagon blanket. We love the selection of cheery shades she’s chosen. They really pop from that snowy white border. Hazel hooked this using Nicki Trench’s Moonlower pattern from Simply Crochet issue 14. Missed it? For details of back issues and digital editions, see p86.

This month we asked you..

7% CLOTHING

& 29% SHAWLS ACCESSORIES

27% AMIGURUMI TOYS

Natalie Truan used Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace for her issue 47 You’re Golden shawl and it looks divine. Via email.

What’s your favourite thing to hook? We’d love to know (we’re nosy like that)! 37% BLANKETS & CUSHIONS

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“Of course, amigurumi!! Making amigurumi, for me, is my life!” @gurumidou

Tweet us @SimplyCrochet_ twitter.com/SimplyCrochet_ Add to our Finished Projects board ravelry.com/groups/simply-crochet Use the hashtag #SCtreblemaker instagram.com/simplycrochetmag Email us at: [email protected] Write to us at: Simply Crochet, Immediate Media Co, Tower House, Fairfax Street, Bristol BS1 3BN Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com

COMPETITION RULES By Promoter: Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (“Promoter”). By taking part in one of our Competitions, you agree to be bound by these Competition Rules. Late or incomplete entries will be disqualified. No responsibility accepted for lost, delayed, ineligible or fraudulent entries. Proof of posting (if relevant) shall not be deemed proof of delivery. Entries must be submitted by an individual (not via any agency or similar) and, unless otherwise stated, are limited to one per household. The Promoter reserves the right in its sole discretion to substitute any prize with cash or a prize of comparable value. Unless otherwise stated, the Competition is open to all UK residents of 18 years and over, except employees of the Promoter and any party involved in the competition or their households. By entering a Competition you give permission to use your name, likeness and personal information in connection with the Competition and for promotional purposes. All entries will become the property of the Promoter upon receipt and will not be returned. You warrant that the Competition entry is entirely your own work and not copied or adapted from any other source. If you are a winner, you may have to provide additional information. Details of winners will be available on request within three months of the closing date. If you are a winner, receipt by you of any prize is conditional upon you complying with (among other things) the Competition Rules. You acknowledge and agree that neither the Promoter nor any associated third parties shall have any liability to you in connection with your use and/or possession of your prize. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into. If any winner is unable to be contacted within one month of the closing date, the Promoter will offer the prize to a runner up. Promoter reserves the right to substitute the prize with one of the same or greater value but there is no cash alternative. Competitions in issue 49 are open from 00:01 on 15 September 2016 until 11:59pm on 12 October 2016. For Terms and Conditions of the competition on page 78, see www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk

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Amigurumi faces GIVE YOUR AMIGURUMI MAKES A PROFESSIONAL FINISH Making your own toys is one of the joys of crochet and we all love amigurumi patterns, but creating the face is an area that many of us struggle with and it can make or break a creation you’ve spent hours working on.

Sweet Doll p83

GETTING IT RIGHT This issue we explain how to make eyes, embroider the face and create the hair, using simple techniques that anyone can master. Once you’re confident with your new face-making skills you can use them to make our sweet doll, Clementine, on page 83 and give her the most gorgeous features.

HOW TO ADD SAFETY EYES Add eyes to your amigurumi toy and create its personality. Nothing gives amigurumi toys character like their eyes – whether you choose beads, crochet or felt circles, embroidery or shop-bought safety eyes. Safety eyes are robust domed plastic pins with a screw back. Plain black pairs are the cheapest (at around 50p per pair), but you can also get eyes with a black pupil and coloured iris, or with eyelashes and even realistic animal eyes. They are called ‘safety eyes’ because they are difficult to remove if making toys. However, always check the packaging for details on recommended ages. ATTACHING SAFETY EYES Safety eyes need to be attached when you can still get to the back of the fabric, so it’s best to add them before closing up and stuffing. Attaching them is very simple – the eye piece is like a small screw, then there’s a small plastic washer that fits on the back. Step 1 & 2 Take the eye piece and carefully insert it into the gap in your fabric. Make sure you’re happy with the placement and move it around if you need to. Step 3 Turn the fabric over to the other side, where the stem of the eye piece is protruding and place the washer over the top, making sure that the washer is positioned with its domed side facing away from the fabric. Step 4 Press down hard on the washer until it snaps in place over the eye piece. 80 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

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Making Eye indents Whichever method you use to form the eyes, you can make the look more realistic by creating an indent before attaching the eye. To do this, you’ll need to make a small straight stitch where you want to place the eyes. Following the instructions for embroidering the facial features (right), when you come to knotting the two ends together, pull the ends tight to pull in the fabric and form an indent in the face. Repeat to form a second indent.

Psst

Taking facial fe time to get the at u  e with ami  right i  key gu  umi t oys

work the Face details Use embroidery to add facial features to your creation. Once your eyes are attached, you can add extra facial features if you want to. Apart from embroidery there are other ways to add facial details, using small circles of felt to form cheeks on a doll for example or adding a plastic safety nose in the same way as you would a pair of safety eyes. Embroidery stitches tend to be the most popular method and are worked right at the end of your make, after your toy has been sewn together and the eyes added. You can use any embroidery stitches you like, but simple straight stitches and chain stitches tend to be the most popular. Step 1 To work embroidery stitches on your finished toy, thread a tapestry needle with your chosen thread or yarn. Insert the needle into the back of the head and bring it out at the front, where you want to start your stitch. Pull the yarn through slowly, leaving a long tail (approx 12cm) at the back of the head. Step 2 Work your choice of stitch here – we worked a variation on chain stitch by inserting the needle two stitches to the left and bringing it out one stitch down in between the first and second hole to form a triangle shape. Step 3 Make sure the needle exits the fabric over the top of the yarn. Pull the yarn through gently until the yarn sits next to the fabric, making sure it isn’t pulled too tight. Bring the needle over the stitch and insert it back into the same hole it’s coming out of, over the top of the stitch you just made – this will hold that stitch in place. Step 4 Take the needle out of the back of the head at the same point you went in. Step 5 Pull the thread through gently to complete the face detail. Step 6 You’ll be left with two tails at the back of the head that you will need to secure – to do this, knot the two ends together gently making sure you don’t pull on or distort the stitches of the face. Step 7 Thread the two tails onto a tapestry needle and insert the needle into the head at the hole next to the knot, bringing it out at the top of the head. Pull the tails through until just the knot remains. Step 8 Pull gently to tuck the knot inside the head. Trim the tails close to the head and push any remaining yarn that’s visible inside the head using the blunt end of a crochet hook or tapestry needle. Find us on www.facebook.com/simplycrochetmag

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Hair is key to finishing off your toy. Whether you attach a shaped hair-coloured crochet cap, embroider straight stitches over a hair cap, add yarn lengths to your hair cap, or attach lengths of yarn directly onto the head of your doll, it’s up to you. You can even stitch lengths of yarn together down the centre to create a hair piece with a parting, and attach it to your toy by itself (see below). Whichever method you use, making hair takes time and patience, but is definitely worth it in the end. ADDING LENGTHS TO THE HEAD Step 1 To attach lengths of yarn directly onto the head of your doll, work in the same way as you would if you were creating fringing. To do this, start by cutting approx 50 lengths of yarn, each approx 20cm long or the length you’d like – cut more lengths as you need them. Starting at the back of the head, as low down as you’d like the hair to go, insert your crochet hook from top to bottom around one stitch. *Take one of your yarn lengths and fold it in half. Place the halfway loop onto your hook and gently pull the loop through the head. Step 2 Use the hook to catch the two strands of yarn on the other side of the loop and pull the two strands through the loop. Step 3 Pull gently on the tails of yarn, making sure you keep them even, until the length is secure. Repeat from * to attach more yarn 82 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

lengths, working around every other stitch around to the face. Once you complete one row, move upwards to the next row and insert yarn lengths into alternate stitches again, but this time work in between the stitches you worked into on the previous row. Step 4 Continue to attach yarn lengths in this way until you’ve reached the top of the head. MAKING A HAIR PIECE Step 5 To create a hair piece with a parting, start by cutting approx 20 lengths of yarn, each one approx 15cm long or the length you’d like. Cut a piece of sticky tape approx 20cm long and place it sticky side up on your worktop – use two more pieces of tape to secure the ends in place. Place the lengths of yarn one by one across the sticky tape, lining up the centre of the yarn with the centre of the tape to keep the lengths even.

Step 6 Place the yarn lengths as close together as you can to get good coverage of hair on the head. Cover approx 5cm of the tape, or the length specified in your pattern. Step 7 Thread a sharp sewing needle with thread that matches your yarn colour and stitch down the centre of the piece using backstitches, working through the tape. Try working across two strands of yarn at a time to the end, then stitch back again, working across alternate strands to secure them firmly. Carefully remove the hair piece from the tape – it should easily break away from where you’ve worked the stitches. Step 8 Place the hair piece on top of the doll’s head and stitch it in place using the same thread, stitching over the backstitches in the hair parting piece. Once you’re happy that the hair piece is secure, trim the hair into your doll’s chosen hairstyle.

Written by Becky Skuse

Top of your toy with gorgeous-looking locks

amigurumi do

Darling Clementine

Put your newly-acquired amigurumi skills into practice with this sweet doll. Designed by Becky Skuse.

Find us on www.facebook.com/simplycrochetmag

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amigurumi do EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED DMC Natura Just Cotton (100% cotton, 50g/155m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Lin (78) Yarn B Moss Green (75) Yarn C Safran (47) Yarn D Ombre (39) Q Scrap of pink yarn Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q Toy stuffing Q A pair of safety eyes Q Sewing needle and thread to match hair colour For yarn stockists contact DMC 0116 275 4000 www.dmccreative.co.uk Q

MEASUREMENTS Approx 13cm (5¼in) tall

ABBREVIATIONS Inv dec (Insert hook in front loop only of next stitch) twice, yrh and pull through the 2 stitch loops, yrh and pull through 2 loops on hook For a full list, see page 92

Designer Becky Skuse says: “Clementine is a simple lady – she loves orange and yellow, and letting her hair grow long. Her wide eyes are full of wonder and she sees the beauty of the world everywhere she looks. She’s easy to make using dc stitches in spiral rounds and great for newcomers to amigurumi because we’ll explain in detail what you need to do at every step.”

NOTES Most of this pattern is worked in spiral rounds, unless otherwise stated. To work in a spiral, don’t close a round with a slip stitch between the first and last stitches of a round. To help you keep track of the beginning of the round, you’ll need to use a stitch marker placed in the first stitch of the round and move it up as you work. Where there is a change of colour and a colour jog might be visible, you may be instructed to ss to next stitch in the old colour before starting with a new colour. For the frills, you will be instructed to work in standard rounds, working a turning chain at the start of the round and joining the first stitch to the last stitch with a ss. Tuck the start and end tails inside each piece as you work, unless otherwise noted. A ‘long tail’ for sewing up needs to be approx. 20cm in length. A ‘long tail’ for weaving in and out of stitches to close the final round only needs to be approx 10cm. Long sewing tails are only needed at the base of the Head, the tops of the Arms and the tops of the Legs. If desired, add weighted stuffing to the bottom of the Legs. Where you are instructed to ‘weave end inside’, thread the end onto a tapestry needle and insert inside the piece, bringing it out as far away as possible. Trim the tail close to the fabric and push any remaining yarn inside using the blunt end of a crochet hook or tapestry needle. The doll’s frills are made by working a round of stitches into the remaining front loops of the stitches below, which have already had their back loops worked into on a previous round. Rounds are labelled as ’b’ to denote that they are worked as part of a second layer of a piece. HEAD Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into loop. [6 dc]

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Our cute Clementine is worked using double crochets in a spiral to create her body shape. Round 2 2dc into each dc around. [12 dc] Round 3 (2dc into next dc, dc in next dc) around. [18 dc] Round 4 (2dc into next dc, dc in each of next 2 dc) around. [24 dc] Round 5 (2dc into next dc, dc in each of next 3 dc) around. [30 dc] Round 6 (2dc into next dc, dc in each of next 4 dc) around. [36 dc] Rounds 7-12 Dc in each dc around. Round 13 (Inv dec, dc in each of next 4 dc) around. [30 dc] Round 14 (Inv dec, dc in each of next 3 dc) around. [24 dc] Round 15 (Inv dec, dc in each of next 2 dc) around. [18 dc] Round 16 (Inv dec, dc in next dc) around. [12 dc] Ss to next dc. Fasten off, leaving a long tail to allow for sewing up. Add safety eyes 5 sts apart between Rounds 10 and 11. Stuff Head. BODY Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc into each dc around. [12 dc] Rounds 3-4 Dc in each dc around. Ss to next dc. Fasten off and tuck in ends. DRESS Join Yarn B in any dc. Round 5 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), *(3dc in next dc) 3 times, dc in each of next 3 dc; repeat from * once more. [24 dc] Rounds 6-11 Dc in each dc around. Ss to next dc. Fasten off and tuck in ends. Stuff and add more stuffing as you work.

LOWER BODY Join Yarn A in the back loop of any dc. Round 12 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in back loop of each dc around. [24 dc] Round 13 (Inv dec, dc in each of next 2 dc) around. [18 dc]

amigurumi do Round 14 (Inv dec, dc in next dc) around. [12 dc] Round 14 (Inv dec) around, ss to next dc. [6 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle, weave in and out of the last 6 sts, pull tight and secure. Weave end inside.

back loop of each dc around. Round 7 Dc in each dc around, ss to next dc. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle, weave in and out of the last 6 dc, pull tight to secure and weave end inside.

SKIRT

Join Yarn C in the front loop of any dc of Round 6. Round 7b (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc in front loop of each dc around, ss to first dc. [12 dc] Fasten off and weave end inside.

WRIST FRILL Join Yarn C in the front loop of any dc from Round 11. Round 12b (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in front loop of each dc around, ss to first dc. [24 dc] Fasten off. Round 13b Join Yarn B in any dc of Round 12b, ch1 (does not count as st), (2dc into next dc, dc in each of next 3 dc) around. [30 dc] Round 14b (2dc into next dc, dc in each of next 4 dc) around. [36 dc] Round 15b (2dc into next dc, dc in each of next 5 dc) around. [42 dc] Round 16 Dc in each dc around, ss to next dc. Fasten off. Round 17 Join Yarn C in any dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc each dc around, ss to first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. ARM (MAKE 2) Using Yarn B, make a magic loop, leaving a long tail for sewing up (do not tuck inside). Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into loop. [6 dc] Rounds 2-5 Dc in each dc around. Ss to next dc. Fasten off and tuck in end.

HAND Round 6 Join Yarn A in the back loop of any dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in

LEG (MAKE 2) Using Yarn A, make a magic loop, leaving a long tail for sewing up (do not tuck inside). Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into loop. [6 dc] Round 2 (Dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) around. [9 dc] Rounds 3-8 Dc in each dc around. Ss to next dc. Fasten off and tuck in end.

SHOE Join Yarn B in the back loop of any dc. Round 9 Working in the back loop only of each stitch, (dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) around to last dc, dc in last dc. [13 dc] Round 10 Dc in each dc around. Stuff and add more stuffing as you work, or add a weighted pouch. Round 11 Dc in each of next 5 dc, 2dc in each of next 3 dc, dc in each of next 5 dc. [16 dc] Round 12 (Inv dec) around, ss to next dc. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread tail onto a tapestry needle, weave

in and out of the last 8 sts, pull tight to secure and weave end inside.

FRILL Join Yarn C in the front loop of any dc from Round 8. Round 9b Ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc in front loop of each dc around, ss to first dc. [18 dc] Fasten off and weave end inside. TO MAKE UP Sew the Arms to the Body’s shoulders so that the top of the Arm is level with the top of the yellow dress. Sew the Legs in place to the bottom of the Body, under the skirt. Stuff the Head firmly. Sew the Head in place at the top of the Body, using mattress stitch and joining the 12 sts of the last round of the Head to the 12 sts of Round 2 at the top of the Body. Embroider the mouth using a scrap of pink yarn and following the steps on page 81. HAIR Cut lengths of yarn to 20cm and use them to make a hair parting piece following the method on page 82. Cut lengths of yarn to 20cm and insert them into the Head as fringe pieces, starting at the lower back of the Head, as described in on page 82. Fringe pieces should be inserted into alternate stitches on every round up to the top of the Head. Sew the hair parting piece to the top of the head, using matching thread, stitching over the backstitches previously made in the hair parting piece. Trim the hair to finish.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK DOUBLE CROCHET IN A SPIRAL

1 Make a foundation ring (turn to page 89) and work the t-ch (1ch for dc). Now work 12 dc stitches into the ring, but do not join the last stitch and first stitch of this first round with a slip stitch.

2 Instead, work the first dc stitch of the second round into the first stitch of the first round. To do this, insert the hook into the stitch, yrh, pull yarn through, yrh and pull the yarn through both loops.

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3 You’ll now be working in a spiral. Continue to work more rounds of dc stitches in a spiral, according to your pattern instructions.

4 On the last round, after you’ve worked the last dc stitch, you’ll need to finish off the spiral with a slip stitch for a neat edge: insert the hook into the next stitch, yrh and pull through both loops.

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PENCIL METHOD Hold the hook like a pencil, in your right hand (if you’re right-handed), about 3-5cm from the hooked end. If your hook has a flat area, you’ll find it comfortable to hold it here.

KNIFE METHOD Hold the hook between your thumb and forefinger, about 3-5cm from the hooked end, resting the end of the hook against your palm. This will give you lots of control.

METHOD ONE Pass the ball end of the yarn between the little finger and third fingers of your left hand (if you are right-handed), then behind the third and middle fingers, over your index finger.

METHOD TWO Loop the ball end of the yarn loosely around the little finger of your left hand, then take it over the third finger, behind the middle finger and over your index finger.

3 Catch the ball end of the yarn with the hook and pull it back through the centre of the loop, taking the yarn through with it.

4 Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the knot, then pull just the ball end to tighten the loop so it’s close to the hook, but not touching it.

MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook.

1 Hold the tail of the ball of yarn in your left hand and drape the yarn clockwise over the top of it to form a circular loop.

2 Hold the loop between left thumb and forefinger, then insert the crochet hook through the centre of the loop from front to back.

CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain.

How to count chains

9

1 Hold the hook in your right hand, and both the yarn end and the working yarn in your left hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anticlockwise.

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2 Pull the hook towards the slipknot, catching the yarn in the hook, and pulling it through the slipknot loop. This forms your first chain (ch) stitch. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to form a chain length.

3 This is what your row of chains will look like. Hold the chain with your left hand near the hook, to keep the tension. Keep going until you have the number of chains that’s stated in your pattern.

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Never count your first slipknot or the loop on the hook (called the working loop). So that you can be accurate, make sure the chain is not twisted and that the front is facing you.

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1

SLIP STITCH (ss)

WORKING IN ROWS

This stitch has no height – often used to join rounds.

Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric.

1 The slip stitch is used to join a length of chain into the round. Insert the hook from front to back into the first chain you worked. Wrap yarn round the hook (yrh) in an anticlockwise direction.

2 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch (as shown) and then the loop already on the hook to make a slip stitch. You can also work this stitch into each stitch along a row to form a neat edging.

1 The first row is made by working across the foundation chain from right to left. At the end of the chain or row, turn the work so that the yarn is behind the hook.

2 For the next row, first make the turning chain for the stitch you’re about to work (see opposite). Now work the next stitch into the top of the stitches on your first row, missing the first stitch.

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) US term: single crochet One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric.

1 To make a double crochet stitch, insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row.

2 Wind the yarn around the hook (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch, giving you two loops on your crochet hook.

4 Yarn round hook again, then pull the yarn through both loops. There’s your double crochet made and you’ll have one loop left on the hook, ready to do the next stitch.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) US term: half double crochet A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and it looks slightly looser than double crochet.

1 To make a half treble crochet stitch, work to where you want the htr and then wind the yarn round the hook (yrh).

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2 Insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch in the previous row. Wrap yarn around the hook again (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch only (3 loops on hook).

4 Yarn round hook again, pull the yarn through all 3 loops. You’ve made a half treble crochet. Continue working htr into next and following sts to the end of the row.

YOUR GUIDE TREBLE CROCHET (tr) US term: double crochet One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch.

1 To work a treble crochet, start by winding yrh and then insert the hook under the top two loops of the stitch on the previous row.

2 Wrap the yarn around the hook (yrh) and pull the yarn through the stitch only.

DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr) US term: treble crochet This is a stitch regularly used as an elongated version of the treble (described above). It’s worked in a very similar way to the treble, as follows: 1 Make a foundation chain. Skip 4ch, *yrh twice, and insert the hook under the top loop of the next ch. 2 Yrh, pull the yarn through the ch loop only (4 loops on hook). 3 Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).

Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook). 4 Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops. Repeat from * to make more dtr sts. 5 To make the next row of dtr, turn work and ch4. This turning chain counts as the first dtr in a new row. Skip first st at the base of the t-ch, work 1dtr under the top two loops of the 2nd stitch in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

TURNING CHAIN (t-ch) For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain.

3 You will now have 3 loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through just the first 2 loops on the hook.

4 You will now have 2 loops on the hook. Yrh again and draw the yarn through the remaining loops on the hook. Your treble crochet is complete.

TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr) US term: double treble crochet This is one of the longest standard crochet stitches and is mainly used in fancy stitch patterns. It’s taller than a double treble crochet stitch (described left) and is worked in a very similar way, as follows: 1 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 ch, *yrh 3 times, insert hook under top loop of next ch. 2 Yrh, pull yarn through ch loop only (5 loops on hook). 3 † Yrh, draw loop through 2

loops only. Repeat from † 3 times more and your triple treble will be finished. Repeat from * to make more ttr sts. 4 To make the next row, turn work and ch5. This turning chain counts as the first triple treble in a new row. Skip first st at base of the t-ch. Work 1 triple treble, inserting hook under the top 2 loops of the 2nd st in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

How to count stitches Check your work is correct.

In crochet, you need to add turning chains (t-chs) to the beginning of rows. The reason for this is to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you’re crocheting. Each basic stitch has its own number of chains. The

table below tells you how many t-ch sts form the first stitch. *For dc, usually the turning chain does not count as a stitch, and the first stitch of the row is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain.

STITCH

Add to foundation chain before starting row

Skip at start of foundation row (counts as first st)

For turning chain (counts as first st)

Double crochet

1 ch

1 ch*

1 ch*

Half treble

1 ch

2 ch

2 ch

Treble

2 ch

3 ch

3 ch

Double treble

3 ch

4 ch

4 ch

Triple treble

4 ch

5 ch

5 ch

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Being able to count your stitches is very important and helps you to ensure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row. To count short stitches such as double crochet, look at the plaited tops (see above right). For taller stitches, count the upright ‘stems’ – each ‘stem’ is counted as a stitch (see right).

1

1

2

2

3

3

4

4

5

5

6

6

7

8

7

9

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HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR

INCREASING AND DECREASING

Create stripes and other colour effects.

Shaping stitches are vital for making garments.

1 Before you work the final yrh (yarn round hook) on the last stitch of a row in the old colour, drop the old yarn and then pick up the new one with your hook.

2 Pull through a loop of the new yarn to finish the old stitch. The working loop will be in the new colour. Continue, keeping the old yarn at the wrong side.

INCREASE To increase one stitch is very simple – work one stitch into the next stitch on the row below. When you’ve finished, work another stitch into the same stitch.

DECREASE For a quick decrease, just skip one stitch. For a neater look, work the first part of one stitch and then begin the next stitch. Finish both together.

SEWING SEAMS You can join crochet seams by using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods.

1 Sewing with a tapestry needle is the regular and neat way to join seams. Place two pieces of crochet right sides together and oversew them as shown above, using a tapestry or yarn needle.

2 To slip stitch a seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together. *Insert hook into both edge stitches, yrh and pull through to complete 1 slip stitch; rep from * working into the next edge stitches, keeping work fairly loose.

How to check your tension Make and measure a swatch to check your tension. Most crochet patterns state the tension required, in rows and stitches of a specific type. Make a swatch at least 15cm square and check that your tension matches. Place a ruler across the swatch and insert two pins, 10cm apart. Then place the ruler along a column of stitches and insert two pins 10cm apart. Count the stitches and rows between the pins – if you have less than the pattern, your tension is too loose so you need to use a smaller hook, but if you have too many, use a larger hook. It’s usually better to match the stitches than rows, because you can always work more or fewer rows.

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3 For a dc seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together, or wrong sides together for a visible seam. Work as for slip stitch seam, using double crochet instead of slip stitch.

4 A useful variation on the dc seam, the dc and chain seam is used when less bulk and/or greater flexibility is needed. Work 1 double crochet and 1 chain alternately.

YOUR GUIDE FOUNDATION RING

WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING

Create a foundation ring for working in the round.

To make circles, tubes and other shapes.

1 Make a chain the length stated in the pattern instructions. Next, insert the crochet hook into the first chain. Close the ring with a slip stitch, working yrh…

2 …and pull yarn through 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start crocheting in the round, following the instructions given right.

1 Make a foundation ring and work the t-ch (3ch for treble sts). Work a treble st as usual, but insert hook into centre of ring. For treble sts, yrh, insert hook into ring.

2 Finish the treble as usual (yrh, pull yarn through ring, yrh, pull yarn through first 2 loops, yrh, pull yarn through 2 loops). Work more sts into the ring as needed.

3 Make a t-ch for the sts you want to work (above, we made 1 t-ch for dc). Work your sts into the Magic Loop, over both the loop and the tail end (so two yarn strands).

4 Once you’ve worked the first round of stitches, simply pull the tail end of yarn to draw up the ring. Work a slip stitch to join the last and first sts to finish the first round (as instructed in the guide below).

MAGIC LOOP An alternative foundation ring for working in the round. Working yarn

Tail end

1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t make a slipknot. Instead, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail around 10cm long. Make sure the tail end is under the working yarn.

2 Now insert your hook into the loop, from front to back. Wrap the working yarn around the hook and pull the yarn through the loop.

JOINING ROUNDS Finish off each round of crochet stitches nice and neatly by using a slip stitch.

Rounds or spirals

1 To close a round of stitches, work a slip stitch into the top of the turning chain. To do this, insert the hook into the top stitch of the turning chain.

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2 Then place the yarn round the hook. Pull the yarn through the turning chain stitch and through the original stitch on your hook.

3 You’ve slip stitched the round together! Before working another round, be sure to make the required turning chain. Always work rounds on the right side, unless you pattern instructs you otherwise.

Some patterns are worked in rounds that are joined together at the end of each round (see left). Other patterns are worked in a spiral so you don’t need to join the rounds at the end, just keep going, working into the next stitch on the previous row. Amigurumi toys are often worked in a spiral like this.

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©Stephanie Lau, www.allaboutami.com

Check which technique you need to use.

Abbreviations across alt approx beg bl BPtr

ch(s) ch-sp(s) chcl(s) 4-tr cl

cont dc dc2tog

dec dtr dtr2tog fl foll/folls FPtr

to end of the row alternate/alternating approximate(ly) beginning insert hook under back loop only Back Post treble: yrh, starting from the back, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st in row below, complete as treble st chain/chain stitch(es) chain space(s) refers to ch made previously, eg. ch-3 clusters (yrh, insert hook in sp/ st, yrh & pull up loop, yrh & draw through 2 loops) 4 times, inserting hook in same sp/st, yrh & draw through all loops on hook continue double crochet (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw a loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook decrease double treble crochet work 2dtr together insert hook under front loop only following/follows Front Post treble: work in opposite way to BPtr

Crochet hook conversions htr htr2tog in next inc LH lp(s) meas p or pc patt(s) pm prev rem rep RH rnd(s) RS sk sp(s) ss st(s) tbl t-ch(s) tog tr tr2tog

ttr WS yoh yrh *

[] or ()

half treble work 2htr together sts to be worked into the same stitch increase left hand loop(s) measures picot pattern(s) place marker previous remain(s)/remaining repeat right hand round(s) right side skip space(s) slip stitch stitch(es) through back loop turning chain(s) together treble crochet (yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, yrh and draw through all loops on hook triple treble crochet wrong side yarn over hook yarn round hook work instructions immediately foll *, then rep as directed work or repeat all instructions in the brackets as directed

HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH To prevent your hard work unravelling once you’ve finished crocheting, fasten the end off carefully. Complete the final stitch, then cut the yarn about 15cm from the work. Pull it through the last loop on the hook and pull to close the loop. Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave into the back of the work. Most crochet items don’t need a lot of blocking, but cotton lace work usually does. To do this, carefully pin out the item with rust-proof pins, mist with a water spray and leave to dry naturally. 92 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

UK

METRIC

US

14

2mm

–

13

2.25mm

B/1

12

2.5mm

–

–

2.75mm

C/2

11

3mm

–

10

3.25mm

D/3

9

3.5mm

E/4

–

3.75mm

F/5

8

4mm

G/6

7

4.5mm

7

6

5mm

H/8

5

5.5mm

I/9

4

6mm

J/10

3

6.5mm

K/10½

2

7mm

–

0

8mm

L/11

00

9mm

M/13

000

10mm

N/15

Which hook do I use? Hook size

UK yarn weight

2.5-3.5mm hook

4ply yarn

3.5-4.5mm hook

double knitting yarn

5-6mm hook

aran yarn

7mm and bigger

chunky yarn

UK/US conversions UK

US

chain

ch

chain

ch

slip stitch

ss

slip stitch

ss

double crochet

dc

single crochet

sc

half treble

htr

half double

hdc

treble

tr

double

dc

double treble

dtr

treble

tr

triple treble

ttr

double treble

dtr

CHARTS

Charts & Diagrams Here are the charts you'll need to make the bright mittens, bag, leg warmers and scarf this issue. Ziggy Mittens, page 24 left right

Bag, page 27

29

29

25

25

19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

20

20

9 8 7 6

15

15

5 4 3 2

11

11 10

10

5

35

5

30

25

Leg Warmers, page 27

20

15

10

5

Scarf, page 29 49

26

47

24

45

22

43

20

41

18

39

16

37

14

35

12

33

10

31

8

29

6

27

4

25

2

48 46 44 42 40 38 36 34 32 30 28 26

25 23 21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3

24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11

Key

9

Yarn A Charcoal Heather

10 8 7 6

Yarn B Neon Coral

5 4 3 2 1 40

35

30

25

Come to our blog at www.simplycrochetmag.com

20

15

10

Yarn C Neon Yellow Yarn D Neon Orange

5

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MAKE A MOTIF

h t e d t w n u i o st R our hook with Lucy Croft’s stripy circ y h s e r f les. Re

Psst

S t  ing to g a n d u e e t h e  a bunting 

mak a motif EASY PEASY ARAN WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Knit Picks Shine Worsted (60% pima cotton, 40% modal, 69m/50g) Yarn A Pistachio (25783) Yarn B Grapefruit (25781) Yarn C Sky (25353) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook For yarn stockists contact 080 8234 6084 www.knitpicks.com Q

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

Shine Worsted from Knit Picks is one of our favourite yarns when it comes to shimmer and drape. Pick up a few balls and make a gorgeous bedroom set and more with Lucy Croft’s sweet motif. CIRCLE MOTIF Using Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 11tr in ring, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [12 tr] Fasten off Yarn A. Round 2 Join Yarn B in first tr, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, ch1, *dc in next tr, ch1; repeat from * around, ss to first dc to join. [12 dc, 12 ch-1 sps] Fasten off Yarn B. Round 3 Join Yarn C in first dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, ch2, *dc in next dc, ch2; repeat from * around, ss to first dc to join. [12 dc, 12 ch-2 sps] Fasten off Yarn C. Round 4 Join Yarn B in first dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, ch3, *dc in next dc, ch3; repeat from * around, ss to first dc to join. [12 dc, 12 ch-3 sps] Fasten off Yarn B. Round 5 Join Yarn A in first dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, ch4, *dc in

next dc, ch4; repeat from * around, ss to first dc to join. [12 dc, 12 ch-4 sps] Fasten off and weave in ends. JOINING MOTIFS Join motifs while working Round 5, by replacing the 3rd ch of the ch-4 with a ss to the corresponding ch-4 on the next motif.

CHART NOTE On the chart, all rounds are read in an anti-clockwise direction.

Key Slip stitch (ss) Chain (ch) Double crochet (dc) Treble crochet (tr) Joining slip stitch

5 4 3 2 1

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Chevron coat

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HOOKY TREASURE

Magic toadstools Amanda Bloom from subscription service Little Box of Crochet reveals the story behind this special woodland set. here’s one piece of crochet I treasure above all others. Actually, it’s three items – a trio of toadstools designed for me by my brilliant friend Kate Bruning of Greedy for Colour. These beautiful little funghi are so precious for a few reasons. The first is that this was the first ever Little Box of Crochet design. From the moment we decided on our debut kit’s theme, I knew that Kate would make the toadstools charming and unique, and she didn’t let me down. It was love at first sight! It was also such fun to work with Kate. She lives in New Zealand and I live in the UK so there were lots of emails and Skyping, with Kate drinking tea while I sipped wine, or vice versa! I’ve been really lucky to work with some fantastic designers and I’m sure it helped that Kate led the way with such a great design and took a chance on my crazy idea! The final reason that this sweet trio means the world to me is probably the biggest one. As they came into being, my daughter Jenny (aged 17 at the time) and I were reeling from the news that, having recovered from a brain tumour two years before, she now had another aggressive cancer in her heart, arms and legs. We were so determined to make the best of each day

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and seek out every little bit of joy we could find. Jenny encouraged me to crack on with my fledgling business and Kate’s toadstools became our symbol of joy and silliness. They were such fun, and that was what we needed in bucketloads. The trio is made from Scheepjes Stonewashed, as the colour palette is bright but has a softness to it, and it’s this softness that stopped the toadstools being too cartoonish. Kate had designed them to be botanically correct, and I wanted to honour that up to a point but also to bring in a little whimsy, so their natural colours were exaggerated and prettied up with touches of silver sprinkled here and there. A few of my friends now have little fairy circles in their homes, but I keep the originals with Jenny and me, and we still feel proud when we look at them. I never expected my business to be so popular, and I’m touched and very grateful when I hear how people love receiving their box each month. If you missed this pattern, I’m going to be releasing a book with all the patterns from previous boxes. Part of the proceeds will go to The Rainbow Trust charity as they have helped Jenny and me so much. Find Amanda at www.littleboxofcrochet.co.uk

love to Crochet NEW DESIGNS! Blankets and Throws for the whole family

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isSue fOrty-Eight This issue, try your hand at crochet cables, applique and colourwork. Plus, there are gorgeous garments and rainbow makes to hook and we dig deeper into indie dyeing and the latest yarns for aututmn.

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