Southern Cast Iron Autumn 2017

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Fall’s Best Pies | Cozy Suppers | Bourbon Desserts

CaRaMeL

APPLE PIE page 78

CONTENTS September/October 2017

Volume 3, Issue 4

First

Next

Editor’s Letter 5

Fall for Breakfast 15

Cast-Iron Connections

Recipes for crisp autumn mornings

Cast-Iron Curiosities 7

Warm & Cozy Suppers 23

Homemade popcorn

Soups, braises, and one-dish meals

Chef’s Table 9

Bourbon Desserts 33

Matthew McClure at The Hive

Cakes, pies, bars, & more

Bread Basket 13

On the Trail with Cast Iron 45

Two ways with drop biscuits

Backpacking with a skillet

Dutch-Oven Popcorn 51 Make movie night tastier

Freshly Baked 57 Easy biscuits and gorgeous breads

Squash Harvest 67 Hearty sides and main dishes

Cast-Iron Pies 75 Skillet versions of fall classics

Iron Pride 87

Vintage Griswold cast iron

Last Cookbook Collection 95 Cast-Iron Baking by Brooke Bell

Cast-Iron Cupboard 101 5 ways with loaf pans

The Perfect 107 Skillet-roasted chicken

Skillet Stories 109 Chef Tandy Wilson

Recipe Index 111 Use & Care 113

on the cover Caramel Apple Pie (page 78) PHOTOGRAPHY BY

JIM BATHIE

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY

ELIZABETH STRINGER BETH K. SEELEY

STYLING BY

Southern

®

CAST IRON

September/October 2017

Volume 3, Issue 4

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS EDITOR Josh Miller MANAGING EDITOR Betty Terry FOOD EDITOR Anna Theoktisto ASSISTANT EDITOR Mary-Kate Tucto RECIPE EDITOR Fran Jensen COPY EDITOR Emma Pitts EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Hannah Jones

Brooke Michael Bell

GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Deanna Rippy Gardner ART DIRECTOR Amy Merk ST YLISTS

Sidney Bragiel, Mary Beth Jones, Beth K. Seeley FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS

CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY

Mac Jamieson SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHERS

John O’Hagan, Marcy Black Simpson PHOTOGRAPHERS

Melissa Gray, Nancy Hughes, Kathleen Kanen, Janet Lambert, Vanessa Rocchio, Jade Sinacori, Elizabeth Stringer ASSISTANT FOOD ST YLIST/RECIPE DEVELOPER

Anita Simpson Spain

Jim Bathie, William Dickey, Stephanie Welbourne Steele ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER Caroline Smith SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST

Delisa McDaniel Clark Densmore

D I G I TA L M E D I A MARKETING DIRECTOR Tricia Wagner Williams ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay DIGITAL GRAPHIC DESIGNER Alana Hogg

A D M I N I S T R AT I V E HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR

Judy Brown Lazenby IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott Holt DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice Ritter ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL

Morgan Crawford I N T E G R AT E D M A R K E T I N G S O LU T I O N S VICE PRESIDENT

Ray Reed

ACCOUNT DIRECTORS

Claire Bucalos [NC, VA, WV, DC, MD] Dawn Bar [AR, TX, OK, CO] Katie Guasco [LA, MS] SMSS/Kelly Hediger [AL, GA, KY, TN] SMSS/Kristine W. Bihm [FL, GA, SC] Rhapsodic Media/Kathy Burke [IL, IN, IA, KS, MN, MO, NE, OH, WI] DIRECT RESPONSE Hagan Media/Katie Hagan ADVERTISING PRODUCTION REPRESENTATIVE Kimberly Lewis GRAPHIC DESIGNER/PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Rachel Collins For assistance with advertising, please call 1-888-411-8995

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD/CEO Phyllis Hoffman DePiano PRESIDENT/COO Eric W. Hoffman PRESIDENT/CCO Brian Hart Hoffman EVP/CFO Mary P. Cummings VP/DIGITAL MEDIA Jon Adamson VP/EDITORIAL Cindy Smith Cooper VP/ADMINISTRATION Lynn Lee Terry

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICE 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50 Birmingham, AL 35243 (205) 995-8860 southerncastiron.com

EVP/OPERATIONS & MANUFACTURING

Greg Baugh VP/INTEGRATED MARKETING SOLUTIONS

Ray Reed CUSTOMER SERVICE Southern Cast Iron, P.O. Box 6201, Harlan, IA 51593 (866) 400-0538 [email protected] southerncastiron.com/myaccount

Southern Cast Iron ISSN 2572-7052 is published bi-monthly by Hoffman Media, LLC, 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243. 1-888-411-8995. The cover and contents of Southern Cast Iron are fully protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced in any manner without written consent of Hoffman Media. All rights reserved in all countries. Southern Cast Iron assumes no responsibility for unsolicited photographs and manuscripts; submissions cannot be returned without a self-addressed stamped envelope. Subscription rates: For the United States, $34.95 per year, 6 issues, add $10 for postage in Canada, add $20 elsewhere. Single issue $12.99 available at newsstands and bookstores. Periodicals postage pending in Birmingham, Alabama, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Southern Home, P.O. Box 6201 Harlan, IA 51593. ©2017 Hoffman Media, LLC. Printed in the USA

From the Editor

CAST-IRON

CONNECTIONS W

Love cast-iron cooking? Subscribe today! We’re excited to offer you the opportunity to join the Southern Cast Iron family as a subscriber. There’s nothing like opening your mailbox to discover a beautiful new issue waiting for you, full of recipes and inspiration for the skillets you treasure so much. Visit southerncastiron.com to subscribe today, and never miss another issue.

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southern cast iron

hen you love cast iron, it forges a connection that can make you do some outlandish things. Last October, my connection with cast iron inspired me to carry a five-pound skillet on a threeday backpacking trip in The Great Smoky Mountains of Tennessee. It didn’t make a lot of sense, but it made for some good memories and some hearty suppers. Read more about that trip—the meals and the mischief—on page 45. For passionate collectors, their connection with cast iron drives them to go to great lengths to acquire specific pieces. Would you pay thousands of dollars for a skillet? Some of the collectors I met at the 2017 Griswold and Cast Iron Cookware Association convention would—and did! I spent three days connecting with these folks; they were some of the nicest, most salt-of-the-Earth people I’ve ever met. Get to know them, and their beloved Griswold cast iron, on page 87. Although you might not be willing to climb a mountain with a heavy skillet on your back or shell out big bucks for the perfect collectible pan, we’re all connected by one truth—we love to cook in cast iron. As temperatures begin their blessed drop and your cravings for all things warm and cozy return, this issue of Southern Cast Iron has you covered. Whether you’re looking for the perfect supper (page 23), the best homemade rolls and biscuits (page 57), or swoon-inducing desserts (page 33 and page 75), you’ll find plenty of delicious new recipes that will leave your family full and happy, and your skillets nicely seasoned. Here’s to a beautiful fall spent deepening your connection with cast iron!

Josh Miller EDITOR

84 28 Editor’s Favorites 71

37 september/october 2017

6

Cast-Iron Curiosities

POP SECRETS Treat yourself to homemade popcorn the old-fashioned way

1. In a large Dutch oven, add oil and a few kernels of popcorn. Heat over mediumhigh heat until kernels pop.

1

3

7

southern cast iron

2. Add the remaining kernels. Cover and shake until kernels begin to pop.

2

3. Shake until popping slows to one pop every 5 seconds, 4 to 5 minutes. See page 51 for recipes

CAST-IRON

Served in Cast Iron

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT OLDFIELD FINE GOODS SKILLET HANDLE COVER This hand-stitched leather beauty is the perfect accessory for a campfire cookout, cornbread, or just biscuit baking at home. Use it in place of your oven mitts or potholders—the tanned leather offers excellent heat protection. $30; oldfieldfinegoods.com

FOOD 101 ATLANTA, GEORGIA Topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and drizzled with rich caramel, this Cast Iron Apple Crisp is undeniably delicious. @FOOD101ATL

THE ORIGINAL SALT BAG This handy kit comes stocked with everything you need to clean your cast-iron skillet on the go. The coarsecut salt means you can use less than you would of its kosher counterpart, and the cotton towel gently scours any stuck-on food bits. $13.95; originalsaltbag.com

FIG CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA If you think Meyer Lemon Pie is perfect on its own, just wait until the folks at FIG dollop their hazelnut ice cream on the side—is your mouth watering yet? @EATATFIG

BEAUTIFUL BRINY SEA CAMPFIRE SALT

COCHON RESTAURANT

An aromatic blend of smoked sea salt, sumac, cumin, and chile flakes, this smoky seasoning is delicious on just about everything—trout, poultry, braised meats, and more. We also love it sprinkled over potatoes and corn— served in cast iron, of course. $8 for a 6-ounce can; beautifulbrinysea.com

NEW ORLEANS, LOUSIANA Who says ham hocks are just for seasoning greens and beans? We’d take this collard-topped hock any day! @COCHON_NOLA

LOCKELAND TABLE THE FIELD COMPANY SKILLET This lightweight skillet is the only travel companion you need. The smooth finish is comparable to heirloom pieces, and it boasts even heat distribution despite the 4.5-pound weigh in. fieldcompany.com

NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE Oysters drizzled with a creamy smoked butter hollandaise? Now this is how all oysters should be served. @LOCKELANDTABLE

Chef’s Table

MATTHEW MCCLURE

THE HIVE

On a mission to share Arkansas cuisine—one skilletful at a time BY

MARY-KATE TUCTO

C

ast-iron cookware and Arkansan cuisine go hand-inhand, and no one proves it better than Chef Matthew McClure at The Hive in Bentonville. He’s been putting the flavors of his home state on the plate at this upscale-yetapproachable restaurant since 2012, with the help of quite a few trusty skillets along the way. But this four-time James Beard nominee didn’t always have his sights set on a future in food. In fact, Matthew was studying to be an engineer when he first considered cooking as a career. “About three semesters in, engineering and I made a mutual decision that we weren’t right for each other,” he jokes. “One of my instructors actually mentioned that he had almost gone to culinary school, and that just got me thinking. Cooking seemed like an adventure.” Matthew headed north to the New England Culinary Institute in Vermont, without even visiting the campus. Years later, this Arkansas native has rediscovered his roots, returning first to his hometown of Little Rock before venturing to Bentonville to help open The Hive. Despite the restaurant’s chic atmosphere—sleek gray booths and modern art line the walls—the food on Matthew’s menu is as comforting as a trip to your grandmother’s house. With dishes from fried chicken livers with spicy buttermilk sauce and pimiento cheese with bacon jam to the Berkshire pork chop and Hive Burger, he’s dedicated to showing off Arkansas cuisine to every guest who steps through the door. That means local sourcing and house-made everything, because Arkansan food, Matthew says, is authentic food. “I just want to tell the story of the food of my state,” he says. “Cast iron is essential to that. From braising and searing to baking cornbread, we use it for everything. I wouldn’t think about running a professional kitchen without it.” And, Matthew admits, there have been times when he literally couldn’t run the kitchen without his army of skillets. “There was a fire in the duct of our wood-burning grill about two and a half years ago,” he recalls. “During the repairs, we were able to keep the restaurant open by setting up stations in the back kitchen and using cast-iron skillets for all of our cooking. It saved us.”

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southern cast iron

THE HIVE 200 NE A STREET BENTONVILLE, AR 72712

september/october 2017

10

Matthew’s love for this Southern heirloom cookware can be traced back to his childhood. When he was growing up, his father used cast-iron skillets in their home kitchen—the smooth, glassy kind made by foundries that have long since closed their doors. The fried chicken, skillet-seared sausage, and hearty gravy his dad prepared in those skillets nutured Matthew’s appreciation for cast iron, even though he didn’t realize it at the time. “As an 8-yearold, using cast iron seemed like a lot of work, with so much cleaning and seasoning,” he says. “I just wanted my over-easy eggs and didn’t care what they were cooked in. But I’m an absolute advocate for it now. It’s just so versatile.” These days, the skillet in his home kitchen is a favorite tool, and the perfect vessel to add extra flavor to those morning eggs—best when cracked straight into the fresh, sizzling fat left over from frying bacon. “It probably isn’t the healthiest breakfast, but damn, it’s tasty!” Matthew says, laughing. Roast chicken is another classic that he says is best when cooked in cast iron. The skillet gives the skin an irresistible color, crunch, and flavor, while aromatics like carrots, onion, and potatoes soak up all the juices as they sear around the edges of the pan. “Another thing we do that I really like is salt-roasted shallots,” Matthew says. “We pack and layer whole shallots in a skillet with some wet salt and bake it in the oven until the shallots are this super creamytender consistency. Then we just add them to various dishes.” From green beans to broccoli to squash, there’s no vegetable that doesn’t benefit from the blazing heat of the skillet, or the classic style of it, in Matthew’s kitchen. “Most of our sides are served in cast iron,” he says. “We’re a from-scratch kitchen, and using those pieces just adds that extra level of comfort.” At the end of the day, that’s what The Hive is all about—giving guests that cozy and welcoming home-cooked experience. “I want the menu to be familiar but creative,” Matthew says. “This is an American restaurant, I’m an American chef, and this is the food of my home.”

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ROASTED CHICKEN WITH GARAM MASALA SPICES

½ ½

Makes 4 servings

FIRST In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, heat all ingredients over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until toasted and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle, grind into a fine powder.

1 2 1

¼ 2

¼

(3- to 4-pound) whole chicken, giblets removed teaspoons kosher salt tablespoon rendered chicken fat (schmaltz) cup Garam Masala (recipe follows) cloves garlic lemon

FIRST Preheat oven to 375°. NEXT Sprinkle chicken with salt; rub with chicken fat and Garam Masala. Truss chicken; insert garlic and lemon in chicken cavity. Place chicken in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet. LAST Roast until juices run clear, 45 to 60 minutes. Let stand for 15 minutes before serving.

GARAM MASALA Makes 5 tablespoons

2 1 1 1 1 1 1

½

star anise Guajillo pepper cinnamon stick teaspoon mustard seed teaspoon anise seed teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon pink peppercorns

teaspoon black peppercorns teaspoon ground cloves

BUTTERMILK CORNBREAD Makes 8 servings

2

½ 2 1 4 2 2

cups plain cornmeal cup all-purpose flour teaspoons salt teaspoon baking soda tablespoons lard or unsalted butter, divided large eggs cups whole buttermilk

FIRST Preheat oven to 425°. NEXT In a large bowl, sift together cornmeal, flour, salt, and baking soda; stir until combined. NEXT In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, melt 2 tablespoons lard or butter over medium-high heat. NEXT In a medium bowl, beat eggs; stir in buttermilk. Stir buttermilk mixture into cornmeal mixture. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons melted lard or butter. Pour batter into hot greased skillet. LAST Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes.

Kitchen Tip: For more flavor, add 1 quartered onion, 1 sliced carrot, 1 chopped stalk of celery, and 1 small bunch of thyme before roasting.

Bread Basket

TWO WAYS WITH

DROP BISCUITS Customize this base recipe to suit your cravings

CHEDDAR-BACON DROP BISCUITS

CHEDDAR-APPLE DROP BISCUITS

CHEDDAR-APPLE DROP BISCUITS Makes 12 Studded with tender apple and melty cheese, these skillet biscuits are packed with flavor.

2 1 2¼ 2½ 2 1

tablespoons unsalted butter cup peeled and chopped Granny Smith apple cups all-purpose flour teaspoons baking powder teaspoons sugar teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ cup cold unsalted butter, grated 1½ cups shredded sharp white Cheddar cheese 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 1 cup whole buttermilk Garnish: fresh thyme FIRST Preheat oven to 450°. NEXT In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add apple; cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool completely.

NEXT In a medium bowl, stir together flour, baking powder, sugar, salt, and baking soda. Using your fingertips, rub cold butter into flour mixture until mixture is crumbly. Stir in cheese and thyme. Add buttermilk and apple, stirring just until combined. Drop dough into same skillet in 12 equal mounds. LAST Bake until golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes, covering with foil halfway through baking to prevent excess browning, if necessary. Garnish with thyme, if desired. Serve warm.

CHEDDAR-BACON DROP BISCUITS Makes 12

Brush a 10-inch cast-iron skillet with 1 tablespoon bacon drippings. Prepare recipe as directed above, omitting melted butter and apple, and adding 1 teaspoon ground black pepper to flour mixture. Substitute sharp yellow Cheddar cheese for white Cheddar cheese, and substitute 6 slices chopped cooked thick-cut bacon for thyme. Garnish with shredded Cheddar cheese and cooked crumbled bacon, if desired.

september/october 2017

14

for

Breakfast Warm and comforting ways to start your day

PUMPKIN PANCAKES WITH BUTTER PECAN SYRUP PAGE 22

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

WILLIAM DICKEY

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY STYLING BY

SIDNEY BRAGIEL

KATHLEEN KANEN

APPLE-PECAN DUTCH BABY Makes 4 to 6 servings This impressive oven pancake comes together quickly and is perfect served straight from the skillet.

¾

cup all-purpose flour tablespoons granulated sugar, divided ¼ teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup whole milk ¼ cup sour cream 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 pound Gala apples, cored and thinly sliced (3 to 4 apples) ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon ⅛ teaspoon ground allspice ¼ cup unsalted butter, cubed Maple syrup, toasted chopped pecans, and confectioners’ sugar, to serve 6

FIRST Preheat oven to 425°. NEXT In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt. In a small bowl, whisk together milk, sour cream, eggs, and vanilla. Add milk mixture to flour mixture, whisking just until combined. Set aside. NEXT In a large bowl, toss together apples, cinnamon, allspice, and remaining 4 tablespoons granulated sugar. NEXT In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add apple mixture. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until apples begin to turn light brown and soften, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir batter, and pour over apple mixture. LAST Bake until puffed and golden brown around the edges, 15 to 17 minutes. Serve immediately with syrup, pecans, and confectioners’ sugar.

Kitchen Tip: Serve this Dutch baby right away—after its dramatic rise, it falls quite quickly.

APPLE CIDER DOUGHNUTS Makes 8 to 10 These quintessential fall delights are delicious rolled in cinnamon-sugar and dunked in apple cider syrup.

4 2

cups apple cider* tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 1½ cups sugar, divided 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 large egg ⅔ cup sour cream 2¼ cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder 1¼ teaspoons apple pie spice, divided ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup grated Golden Delicious apple Vegetable oil, for frying FIRST In a small Dutch oven, bring apple cider to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil until cider is reduced to 1 cup, about 40 minutes. Remove from heat. Let cool to room temperature. NEXT In a large bowl, beat butter, ½ cup sugar, and vanilla with a mixer at medium speed until combined. Add egg, beating until thick and pale, about

2 minutes. Beat in sour cream. NEXT In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, ¼ teaspoon apple pie spice, and salt. With mixer on low speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture, beating until combined. Add apple, beating just until combined. Wrap dough in plastic wrap. (Dough will be slightly sticky.) Refrigerate for 30 minutes. NEXT On a lightly floured surface, gently knead dough 3 or 4 times. Roll dough to ½ inch thick. Using a 3-inch doughnut cutter, cut dough, rerolling scraps as necessary. NEXT Fill a cast-iron Dutch oven halfway full with oil, and heat over medium heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers 350°. Add doughnuts to hot oil in batches; fry until golden brown, about 1½ minutes per side. Fry doughnut holes for about 1 minute. Remove using a slotted spoon, and let drain on paper towels. Let cool slightly. LAST In a large bowl, combine remaining 1 cup sugar and remaining 1 teaspoon apple pie spice. Dip doughnuts and doughnut holes in sugar mixture, shaking off excess. Drizzle with apple cider syrup. *We used Martinelli’s Apple Cider.

september/october 2017

18

HONEY AND SPICE GRANOLA Makes about 6 cups Warm spices are balanced with honey in this crave-worthy skillet granola.

½ ¼ 2

¼ 1 2 1

½ ½ ¼ ¾ ½ ¼ ⅛ ½

cup unsalted butter cup firmly packed light brown sugar tablespoons granulated sugar cup honey teaspoon vanilla extract cups old-fashioned oats cup chopped pecans cup chopped whole almonds cup chopped dried apricots cup raw pumpkin seeds teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground nutmeg teaspoon ground red pepper cup dried cranberries

FIRST Preheat oven to 275°. NEXT In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, bring butter, sugars, honey, and vanilla to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, stirring

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frequently, until butter is melted. Remove from heat. Add oats, pecans, almonds, apricots, pumpkin seeds, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and red pepper, stirring until combined. LAST Bake until golden brown, about 55 minutes, stirring occasionally. (Mixture will continue to dry as it cools.) Stir in cranberries. Let cool in pan on a wire rack, stirring occasionally to prevent granola from sticking to pan.

BUTTERMILK-BACON PANCAKES Makes about 10 The ultimate breakfast, these all-in-one bacon pancakes will be a family favorite for years to come.

10 slices thick-cut bacon 2 cups self-rising flour 2 tablespoons sugar ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt 1¼ cups whole buttermilk ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted

½

teaspoon vanilla extract 2 large eggs Maple syrup, to serve FIRST In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until crisp. Remove bacon, and let drain on paper towels, reserving 1 tablespoon drippings in skillet. Reserve remaining drippings. NEXT In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk together buttermilk, melted butter, vanilla, and eggs. Make a well in center of flour mixture; add buttermilk mixture, stirring just until combined. LAST Cut each bacon slice in half crosswise. For each pancake, place 2 bacon pieces side by side in skillet. Spoon ⅓ cup batter over bacon pieces, spreading slightly. Cook until edges are dry and bubbles form in center of pancakes, about 3 minutes; turn, and cook until browned, 2 to 3 minutes more. Use reserved bacon drippings as needed. Serve with maple syrup.

Kitchen Tip: No wedge pan? Grease a 10-inch cast-iron skillet; shape dough into an 8-inch circle, and cut into 10 wedges. Arrange in skillet, spacing evenly. Bake as directed.

SWEET POTATO STREUSEL SCONES Makes about 10 These wonderfully tender wedges will have you coming back for more.

Dough: 2¼ cups all-purpose flour ¼ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar 2¼ teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg ⅓ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed 1 (15-ounce) can cut sweet potatoes in syrup, drained and coarsely mashed ⅓ cup whole buttermilk 1 large egg, lightly beaten Streusel: ¼ cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup sugar ¼ cup old-fashioned oats ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt ⅛ teaspoon baking powder 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted Glaze: 1 cup confectioners’ sugar ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon ⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg 5 to 6 tablespoons heavy whipping cream FIRST Preheat oven to 375°. Spray a cast-iron wedge pan with baking spray with flour. NEXT For dough: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, brown sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg. Using two forks or a pastry blender, cut in cold butter until mixture is crumbly. NEXT In a small bowl, stir together sweet potatoes, buttermilk, and egg. Gradually add sweet potato mixture to flour mixture, stirring with a fork just until dry ingredients are moistened. NEXT On a lightly floured surface, knead dough 10 to 12 times. Add about ¼ cup dough into each prepared well. (You will have extra dough.) NEXT For streusel: In a medium bowl, combine flour, sugar, oats, salt, and baking powder. Add melted butter,

tossing with a fork until moistened. Sprinkle about 1 tablespoon streusel over each portion of dough. NEXT Bake in batches until streusel is lightly browned and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 23 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Run a knife around edges of scones. Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack. LAST For glaze: In a small bowl, whisk together confectioners’ sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Add cream, 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking until desired consistency is reached. Drizzle glaze over cooled scones.

PUMPKIN PANCAKES WITH BUTTER PECAN SYRUP Makes about 16 There’s nothing better than starting a fall morning with these fluffy pumpkin pancakes.

Syrup: 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ¾ cup chopped pecans ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt 1½ cups cane syrup ⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon Pancakes: 2½ cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 tablespoon pumpkin pie spice

½ 2 1

⅔ ⅓ 1 2 3

teaspoon kosher salt cups whole milk cup canned pumpkin cup firmly packed light brown sugar cup unsalted butter, melted teaspoon vanilla extract large eggs tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

Butter, to serve FIRST For syrup: In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add pecans and salt; cook, stirring frequently, until pecans are toasted, about 8 minutes. Add cane syrup and cinnamon; cook until heated through. Cover and set aside. NEXT Heat a cast-iron griddle or skillet over medium heat. NEXT For pancakes: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, pumpkin pie spice, and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk together milk, pumpkin, brown sugar, melted butter, vanilla, and eggs. Make a well in center of flour mixture; add milk mixture, whisking just until combined. LAST Brush pan with 1 tablespoon oil. Spoon batter by ⅓ cupfuls, spreading slightly. Cook until edges are dry and bubbles form in center of pancakes, about 3 minutes; turn, and cook until browned, 2 to 3 minutes more. Use remaining 2 tablespoons oil as needed. Serve with butter and syrup.

september/october 2017

22

WARMeCOZY

SUPPERS one-skillet wonders + low & slow braises PHOTOGRAPHY BY

JIM BATHIE

WILLIAM DICKEY MELISSA GRAY BETH K. SEELEY AND

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY STYLING BY

CHICKEN TETRAZZINI PAGE 30

JAMAICAN JERK CHILI Makes about 3 quarts Warm spices and a little habanero give this chicken chili a spicy kick.

1

(32-ounce) carton low-sodium chicken broth, divided ½ small yellow onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic 5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 2 tablespoons ground allspice 1 tablespoon firmly packed light brown sugar 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons ground ginger 2 teaspoons dried thyme 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground red pepper ½ teaspoon ground cloves ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg 2 small bell peppers, seeded and diced 1 habanero pepper, stemmed and minced 2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts ½ cup chopped green onion 2 (15-ounce) cans kidney beans, drained and rinsed 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes 2 limes, juiced Lime wedges and sour cream

GARLIC CHICKEN WITH RED POTATOES Makes 6 servings

FIRST In the container of a blender, place ¾ cup broth, onion, garlic, 4 tablespoons oil, allspice, brown sugar, salt, ginger, thyme, cinnamon, red pepper, cloves, and nutmeg; purée until smooth, about 2 minutes. NEXT In a large Dutch oven, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Add bell pepper and habanero; sauté until tender, about 3 minutes. Add chicken, green onion, beans, tomatoes, remaining 3¼ cups broth, and jerk marinade; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium; cover and cook until a meat thermometer inserted in thickest portion of chicken registers 165°, 25 to 30 minutes. LAST Remove chicken from chili. Using 2 forks, shred chicken, and return to soup. Stir in lime juice. Serve with lime wedges and sour cream, if desired.

Trust us—you’ll want plenty of crusty bread to sop up the pan juices from this savory supper.

1 4 2 6

pound baby red potatoes, halved teaspoons kosher salt, divided tablespoons unsalted butter bone-in skin-on chicken thighs ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 small red onion, sliced 1 head garlic, halved 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme ½ cup dry white wine ½ cup low-sodium chicken broth 1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard ½ cup shredded Asiago cheese Garnish: fresh thyme, ground black pepper

FIRST Preheat oven to 400°. NEXT In a Dutch oven, bring potatoes, 3 teaspoons salt, and water to cover to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until slightly tender, about 10 minutes; drain. NEXT In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Sprinkle both sides of chicken with pepper and remaining 1 teaspoon salt; add to skillet. Sear until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side. Remove from skillet. NEXT Add onion and garlic halves to skillet; sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Remove garlic halves. Stir in flour and thyme; cook for 1 minute. Stir in wine, broth, and mustard; cook until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in cheese until melted. Add chicken, potatoes, and garlic halves to skillet. LAST Bake until a meat thermometer inserted in thickest portion of chicken registers 165°, 30 to 35 minutes. Garnish with thyme and pepper, if desired. september/october 2017

26

SPICE-RUBBED PORK SHOULDER Makes 8 to 10 servings Make a double batch of this spice blend—its rich and exotic flavor is a knockout. Be sure to score the fat on the pork shoulder—it helps the crust become mouthwateringly crispy.

1 1

½ 1 1

¼ ¼ 1 1 1

¼ 2 2 2 1

¼

CREAMY CHICKEN AND SHELLS WITH BABY BROCCOLI Makes about 4 servings Roasting the chicken in the skillet adds rich flavor to the quick and creamy pan sauce.

1 tablespoon canola oil 3 pounds bone-in skin-on chicken thighs 2½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided ¾ teaspoon ground black pepper, divided 2 bunches baby broccoli, trimmed and chopped 2 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 clove garlic, smashed 1 cup heavy whipping cream 1 cup chicken broth ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese 1 (12-ounce) box orecchiette pasta, cooked according to package directions

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FIRST Preheat oven to 425°. NEXT In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Season both sides of chicken with 2 teaspoons salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Place chicken, skin side down, in skillet. Cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Turn chicken. NEXT Bake until a meat thermometer registers 160°, about 20 minutes. Remove chicken from skillet; set aside. NEXT In a large microwave-safe bowl, place broccoli and 2 tablespoons water. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Microwave on high for 2 minutes; drain. LAST Place same skillet over medium heat. Whisk in flour; cook for 1 minute. Whisk in mustard and garlic. Gradually stir in cream and broth. Cook, stirring frequently, until mixture has thickened, about 5 minutes. Season with remaining ½ teaspoon salt and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper. Stir in cheese until melted. Remove from heat. Stir in cooked pasta. Add cooked chicken and broccoli to skillet, stirring to coat. Serve immediately.

whole star anise pod teaspoon whole black peppercorns teaspoon whole cloves lemon, zested navel orange, zested cup plus ¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided cup granulated sugar teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground cardamom (7- to 8-pound) bone-in skinless pork shoulder cup firmly packed light brown sugar tablespoons apple cider vinegar tablespoons cane syrup bunches broccolini, trimmed tablespoon olive oil teaspoon ground black pepper

FIRST Using the bottom of a cast-iron skillet, crush star anise, peppercorns, and cloves. In a small bowl, stir together zests, ¼ cup salt, granulated sugar, cinnamon, cardamom, and crushed spices. Rub spice mixture over pork shoulder. Place on a small rimmed baking sheet. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight. NEXT Transfer pork to a 15-inch cast-iron skillet; discard any liquid. Score fat; cover tightly with foil. Place in a cold oven. NEXT Bake at 325° until a meat thermometer inserted in center registers 195°, about 5½ hours. Remove skillet from oven. Increase oven to 500°. NEXT Carefully pour off any liquid into a small saucepan; add brown sugar, vinegar, and cane syrup. Bring to a boil over high heat; cook until slightly thickened, 3 to 5 minutes. NEXT In a large bowl, toss together broccolini, oil, pepper, and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt. Add to skillet with pork. LAST Bake until broccolini is tender and pork is browned, about 10 minutes. Brush pork with glaze before serving.

MEXICAN CHICKEN POT PIES Makes 5 (6-inch) skillets Pair a Southern classic with south-of-the-border flavors, and you get these tasty little personal pies.

2 cups self-rising flour 2½ cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese, divided ⅓ cup plain yellow cornmeal 2 tablespoons sugar 3 teaspoons kosher salt, divided ½ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed 1 cup whole buttermilk 1 tablespoon vegetable oil ½ cup chopped yellow onion ½ cup diced red bell pepper 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1½ cups whole milk 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon ground black pepper, divided ½ teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon ground coriander 2 cups shredded cooked chicken 1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained 1 (4.5-ounce) can chopped green chiles ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 large egg, lightly beaten FIRST Preheat oven to 400°. Place 5 (6-inch) cast-iron skillets on a large rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Spray skillets with cooking spray. NEXT In a medium bowl, stir together self-rising flour, ½ cup cheese, cornmeal, sugar, and 1 teaspoon salt. Using two forks or a pastry blender, cut in cold butter until mixture is crumbly. Stir in buttermilk until a smooth batter forms. NEXT In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion and bell pepper; cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add garlic; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Whisk in all-purpose flour until smooth; cook for 1 minute. Whisk in milk; cook until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Whisk in chili powder, ½ teaspoon pepper, cumin, coriander, remaining 2 cups cheese, and remaining 2 teaspoons salt until cheese is melted. Stir in chicken, beans, tomatoes, chiles, and cilantro. Divide chicken mixture among prepared skillets. Drop batter by spoonfuls over chicken

mixture. Brush tops with egg; sprinkle with remaining ½ teaspoon pepper. LAST Bake until tops are golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes; serve warm.

CHICKEN TETRAZZINI Makes 6 to 8 servings Creamy, rich, and covered with cheese, our take on this classic pasta dish is packed with comfort.

6 2 1 6 3 1½ 1 1 1 1

½ 2½ ¾

tablespoons unsalted butter, divided cups sliced fresh baby portobello mushrooms small yellow onion, diced cloves garlic, minced tablespoons all-purpose flour cups half-and-half cup low-sodium chicken broth cup dry white wine teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon lemon zest teaspoon ground black pepper cups shredded mozzarella cheese, divided cup shredded Parmesan cheese, divided

3

cups cooked shredded chicken (16-ounce) box linguine, cooked according to package directions ½ cup roughly chopped parsley Garnish: chopped fresh parsley, lemon zest

½

FIRST Preheat oven to broil. NEXT In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms; cook, stirring occasionally, until light golden brown, about 3 minutes. Add onion; cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. NEXT Add remaining 4 tablespoons butter to skillet. Stir in flour; cook for 1 minute. Whisk in half-and-half, broth, wine, salt, zest, and pepper until smooth. Cook until thickened, about 3 minutes. Whisk in 2 cups mozzarella and ½ cup Parmesan until melted. Stir in chicken, pasta, and parsley; remove from heat. Sprinkle with remaining ½ cup mozzarella and remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. LAST Broil until melted and golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Garnish with parsley and zest, if desired. september/october 2017

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until wilted; remove from heat. NEXT On a lightly floured surface, unfold dough, and tuck corners under. Roll into a circle; carefully place dough over skillet. Crimp as desired. Brush with egg, and sprinkle with more black pepper, if desired. LAST Bake until golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes before serving. Garnish with thyme, if desired.

BACON-JALAPEÑO MEATLOAF Makes 6 to 8 servings Bacon-wrapped and jalapeño-studded, this skillet meatloaf is also delicious on sandwiches.

12 2 2 2 1

⅔ ½ 6 2 8 2 1

½ ¼ ½

STEAK AND SWEET POTATO PIE Makes about 6 servings This hearty pie, with its golden crispy crust and rich filling, will be a new family favorite.

¼ 1 2

½ ½ ¼ ¼ ⅛ 1 2 1 1 2 1 2

31

cup all-purpose flour tablespoon chopped fresh thyme teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon paprika teaspoon ground black pepper teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon crushed red pepper pound tenderloin steak tips tablespoons vegetable oil cup thinly sliced white onion clove garlic, thinly sliced cups low-sodium beef broth large sweet potato, peeled and cubed cups roughly chopped kale

southern cast iron

½

(17.3-ounce) package frozen puff pastry, thawed 1 large egg, lightly beaten Garnish: fresh thyme FIRST Preheat oven to 400°. NEXT In a large bowl, whisk together flour, thyme, salt, paprika, black pepper, ginger, allspice, and red pepper. Reserve 2 tablespoons flour mixture. Add steak tips to remaining mixture, stirring to coat. NEXT In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion and steak tips; cook, stirring frequently, until onions are tender and steak is browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Add garlic; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in reserved flour mixture; cook for 1 minute. Stir in broth until smooth. Add sweet potatoes, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer until potatoes are fork tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in kale

slices thick-cut bacon, divided pounds ground sirloin large eggs, lightly beaten cloves garlic, minced large jalapeño, seeded and diced cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs) cup chopped green onion tablespoons ketchup, divided tablespoons pepper sauce teaspoons Worcestershire sauce, divided teaspoons Dijon mustard teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground black pepper cup firmly packed light brown sugar cup sliced pickled jalapeños

FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. NEXT In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, cook 8 slices bacon over medium heat until crisp. Remove bacon, and let drain on paper towels. Let cool slightly; crumble bacon. NEXT In a large bowl, stir together beef, eggs, garlic, diced jalapeño, bread crumbs, green onion, 2 tablespoons ketchup, pepper sauce, 6 teaspoons Worcestershire, mustard, salt, pepper, and crumbled bacon until combined. Shape mixture into a rectangle, and place in skillet. Cut remaining 4 slices bacon in half; layer on top of meat. NEXT In a small bowl, stir together brown sugar, remaining 4 tablespoons ketchup, and remaining 2 teaspoons Worcestershire. Brush half of glaze over bacon; sprinkle with pickled jalapeños. LAST Bake for 45 minutes. Brush remaining glaze over meatloaf, and bake until a meat thermometer inserted in center registers 165°, about 30 minutes more. Place meatloaf under broiler until bacon is crisp, 2 to 3 minutes, if desired. Let stand for 5 minutes before slicing.

bourbon

desserts Seasoned by time, this rich spirit infuses fall desserts with big flavor

MELISSA GRAY JIM BATHIE MARY BETH JONES

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY PHOTOGRAPHY BY STYLING BY

Kitchen Tip: The bourbon in these recipes can be omitted (depending on the amount used), or replaced with another liquid, such as water, vanilla, lemon juice, or buttermilk.

HARVEST CRISP WITH MAPLE-BOURBON CREAM Makes about 8 servings Layered with tender sweet potato and apple and studded with bright cranberries, this cozy cobbler is the perfect fall dessert.

2

large sweet potatoes, peeled, halved, and sliced ½-inch-thick (about 2½ cups sliced) ¾ cup water ½ cup bourbon ⅔ cup granulated sugar, divided 2 Gala apples, peeled, cored, and sliced ¼-inch-thick 1 cup fresh cranberries 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1 cup shortbread cookie crumbs 2 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened Maple-Bourbon Cream (recipe follows) FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 10-inch cast-iron skillet with cooking spray. NEXT In a small Dutch oven, bring potatoes, ¾ cup water, bourbon, and ⅓ cup granulated sugar to a boil over medium heat. Cover and cook until potatoes are crisp-tender, about 10 minutes; drain, reserving ½ cup cooking liquid. NEXT In a large bowl, stir together apples, cranberries, lemon juice, potatoes, reserved ½ cup cooking liquid, and remaining ⅓ cup granulated sugar. Spoon into prepared skillet. NEXT In a medium bowl, stir together cookie crumbs, brown sugar, and cinnamon until combined. Using two forks or a pastry blender, cut in butter until mixture is crumbly. Sprinkle over potato-apple mixture. LAST Bake until potatoes and apples are tender, 30 to 35 minutes, covering with foil during last 10 minutes of baking to prevent excess browning, if necessary. Serve with Maple-Bourbon Cream.

MAPLE-BOURBON CREAM Makes about 2½ cups

1 cup heavy whipping cream 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar 2 tablespoons maple syrup 1 to 2 tablespoons bourbon FIRST In a large bowl, beat cream with a mixer at medium speed until thickened, about 2 minutes. Add confectioners’ sugar, maple syrup, and bourbon, beating until soft peaks form, about 3 minutes.

Kitchen Tip: To make cutting easier, dip a knife in hot water, wiping after cutting each slice.

until smooth. Spread onto cooled Pecan Pie Filling. Let stand at room temperature overnight or refrigerate until set, about 1 hour. Cut into bars. Garnish with remaining nut mixture, if desired.

PECAN PIE FILLING Makes about 2½ cups

1½ cups pecan halves 1 cup sugar ⅔ cup dark corn syrup 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 2 large eggs 4 teaspoons bourbon ¼ teaspoon kosher salt FIRST In a small Dutch oven, stir together pecans, sugar, corn syrup, melted butter, eggs, bourbon, and salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring frequently. Reduce heat to mediumlow; simmer, stirring constantly, until thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes before using.

BOURBON-CHOCOLATE PECAN PIE BARS Makes about 10 servings These rich bars are made for bourbon lovers.

Crust: ¼ cup pecan halves 1¾ teaspoons kosher salt, divided ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg, divided 1 cup unsalted butter, softened ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar 2 large egg yolks 1 teaspoon bourbon 2 cups all-purpose flour Pecan Pie Filling (recipe follows) Chocolate: 1 (12-ounce) package semisweet chocolate morsels ½ cup heavy whipping cream 3 tablespoons bourbon 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened FIRST For crust: In the work bowl of a food processor, combine pecans,

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¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon nutmeg. Pulse until nuts are finely ground. Transfer mixture to a medium bowl. NEXT In a large bowl, beat butter and sugar with a mixer at medium speed until creamy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in bourbon. With mixer on low speed, add flour, ¼ cup nut mixture, remaining 1½ teaspoons salt, and remaining ¼ teaspoon nutmeg. Increase mixer speed to medium, and beat just until mixture comes together, about 2 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. NEXT Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 9-inch cast-iron skillet with cooking spray. Using floured hands, press dough into prepared pan. NEXT Bake until light golden brown around the edges, about 30 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes. Spread with Pecan Pie Filling. Refrigerate for 15 minutes. LAST For chocolate: In a medium microwave-safe bowl, combine chocolate and cream. Microwave on high in 30-second intervals, stirring between each, until chocolate is melted and smooth. Whisk in bourbon and butter

BOURBON-BACON PEANUT BRITTLE Makes about 6 cups This crunchy candy is filled with our Southern favorites—bacon, peanuts, and bourbon.

1½ cups sugar ½ cup light corn syrup ½ cup bourbon 1 cup raw peanuts 6 slices thick-cut bacon, cooked and crumbled 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 teaspoon baking soda FIRST Spray a large rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray. LAST In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, bring sugar, corn syrup, and bourbon to a boil over medium heat. Stir in peanuts; cook, stirring constantly, until a candy thermometer registers 300°, 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in bacon, butter, and baking soda until combined. Pour onto prepared pan, smooth with a spatula. Let cool completely; break into pieces.

Kitchen Tip: We also tested this recipe in a standard cast-aluminum Bundt pan; the cook time and temperature are the exact same.

BOURBON-BUTTER CAKE Makes 10 to 12 servings A splash of bourbon lends a spirited kick to this ultra-moist pound cake.

1¼ 1¾ 1 5 3½ 1¼ 1¼

cups unsalted butter, softened cups granulated sugar cup firmly packed light brown sugar large eggs cups cake flour teaspoons kosher salt teaspoons baking powder ¾ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg 1¼ cups whole buttermilk ⅓ cup bourbon Bourbon Caramel Sauce (recipe follows) FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. Generously spray a 15-cup cast-iron Bundt pan with baking spray with flour. NEXT In a large bowl, beat butter and sugars with a mixer at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. NEXT In a medium bowl, sift together flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and nutmeg. In a small bowl, whisk together buttermilk and bourbon. NEXT Reduce mixer speed to low. Gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with buttermilk mixture, beginning and ending with flour mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. Pour into prepared pan. LAST Bake until a wooden pick inserted near center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Let cool in pan for 30 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack. Serve with Bourbon Caramel Sauce.

BOURBON CARAMEL SAUCE Makes about 2 cups

2 1 2

cups sugar, divided cup heavy whipping cream, at room temperature tablespoons bourbon

FIRST In a 12-inch enamel-coated castiron skillet, heat 1 cup sugar over medium heat. (Do not stir.) Cook until edges are melted and sugar is amber colored, about 15 minutes. Stir in remaining 1 cup sugar;

cook until melted, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; whisk in cream. If needed, return to heat, whisking until smooth. Whisk in bourbon until combined. Let cool completely. Refrigerate for up to 1 month. Bring to room temperature or reheat before using.

APPLE-BOURBON STREUSEL PIE Makes 1 (10-inch) pie Drizzled to perfection with Bourbon Caramel Sauce, this apple pie is divine.

Crust: 1¼ cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon sugar ½ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed 3 tablespoons whole buttermilk, chilled Filling: 6 cups sliced Gala apples (about 2½ pounds) ⅓ cup granulated sugar ⅓ cup firmly packed light brown sugar 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1½ teaspoons apple pie spice ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt 1½ teaspoons bourbon 1½ teaspoons fresh lemon juice Streusel: ¼ cup old-fashioned oats 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 1 1

tablespoons chopped walnuts tablespoon firmly packed light brown sugar tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

Bourbon Caramel Sauce (recipe precedes) FIRST For crust: In a medium bowl, stir together flour, salt, and sugar. Using two forks or a pastry blender, cut in cold butter until mixture is crumbly. Add buttermilk, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring until a dough forms. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and shape into a disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes. NEXT Preheat oven to 375°. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 13-inch circle. Transfer to a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, pressing into bottom and up sides. Fold edges under, and crimp as desired. NEXT For filling: In a large bowl, stir together apples, sugars, cornstarch, apple pie spice, and salt. Sprinkle with bourbon and lemon juice; stir to combine. Spoon apple mixture into prepared crust. NEXT For streusel: In a small bowl, stir together oats, flour, walnuts, and brown sugar. Add melted butter, stirring until crumbly. Sprinkle over filling. LAST Bake until crust is golden brown and apples are tender, about 45 minutes, loosely covering with foil during last 10 minutes of baking to prevent excess browning, if necessary. Let cool to room temperature. Serve with Bourbon Caramel Sauce.

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BOURBON-CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING Makes 8 to 10 servings Studded with chunks of chocolate and drenched with a bourbon glaze, this comforting dessert is also delightful for a fall brunch.

10 cups challah bread, cut into 1-inch cubes 4 cups half-and-half ¾ cup unsalted butter 1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar ½ cup granulated sugar 5 large eggs, lightly beaten 5 tablespoons bourbon, divided ½ cup semisweet chocolate, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons sanding sugar 1 cup confectioners’ sugar ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted ½ cup heavy whipping cream FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. NEXT In a large bowl, toss together bread cubes and half-and-half. Let stand at room temperature. NEXT In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, melt ¾ cup butter over medium heat. Add sugars, whisking until combined. Remove from heat; whisk in eggs and 3 tablespoons bourbon until combined. Pour over bread mixture. Add chocolate, stirring gently to combine. Spoon bread mixture into skillet. Sprinkle with sanding sugar, and cover with foil. NEXT Bake for 55 minutes. Uncover and bake until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 15 minutes more. LAST In a small bowl, whisk together confectioner’s sugar, ¼ cup melted butter, and remaining 2 tablespoons bourbon until smooth; whisk in cream until smooth. Serve glaze with warm bread pudding.

Kitchen Tip: Sanding sugar has slightly larger grains than regular granulated sugar, which can be substituted in this recipe.

BOURBON-PECAN UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE Makes about 8 servings The ooey gooey bourbon-laced topping soaks into this tender cake, making it one of our favorite upside-down delights.

Topping: 1 cup roughly chopped pecans ½ cup unsalted butter, cubed ½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar ¼ cup light corn syrup 2 tablespoons bourbon ¼ teaspoon kosher salt Cake: 1⅔ cups all-purpose flour ¾ cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon baking soda 1 cup whole buttermilk ½ cup unsalted butter, melted

1 2

tablespoon bourbon large eggs

FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. NEXT For topping: Spray a 10-inch cast-iron skillet with cooking spray. Add pecans, butter, brown sugar, corn syrup, bourbon, and salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat. NEXT For cake: In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. In a small bowl, whisk together buttermilk, melted butter, bourbon, and eggs. Add buttermilk mixture to flour mixture, stirring until smooth. Gently spoon batter over pecan mixture in skillet. (Do not stir.) LAST Bake until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Carefully invert onto a flat serving plate. Spoon any remaining pecan mixture in skillet over cake.

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BOURBON-PUMPKIN CINNAMON ROLLS Makes about 8 Pumpkin adds a beautiful orange hue to these tender cinnamon rolls.

Dough: ¼ cup warm water (105° to 110°) 2 tablespoons sugar 1 (0.25-ounce) package active dry yeast 2½ cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1½ teaspoons pumpkin pie spice ¾ cup canned pumpkin 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted Filling: cup unsalted butter, softened cup firmly packed light brown sugar 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

½ ½

1



teaspoon bourbon teaspoon kosher salt

Glaze: 1½ cups confectioners’ sugar 3 tablespoons whole milk 1 tablespoon bourbon FIRST For dough: In a medium bowl, stir together ¼ cup warm water, sugar, and yeast. Let stand until frothy and bubbly, about 5 minutes. NEXT In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, stir together flour, salt, and pumpkin pie spice. With mixer on low speed, add yeast mixture, pumpkin, and melted butter, beating just until combined. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Beat at medium speed until dough is smooth and elastic, about 7 minutes. NEXT Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm,

draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, about 1 hour. NEXT Spray a 10-inch cast-iron skillet with cooking spray. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 16x12-inch rectangle. NEXT For filling: In a medium bowl, stir together butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, bourbon, and salt. Spread butter mixture onto dough. Starting with one long side, roll dough into a log; pinch seam to seal. Place roll, seam side down, on a cutting board. Cut dough into 2-inch-thick slices. Place in prepared skillet. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, about 45 minutes. NEXT Preheat oven to 350°. Bake until golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes. LAST For glaze: In a small bowl, whisk together confectioners’ sugar, milk, and bourbon until smooth. Drizzle over warm rolls. Serve immediately.

Beloved Bourbon Bourbon lends a smoky caramel and subtle vanilla flavor to both savory and sweet dishes. Here’s a few more ways we like to use and enjoy this rich spirit. ■

Save your split and seeded vanilla beans, and place them in a jar. Fill the jar with bourbon; after a month you’ll have the best homemade vanilla extract.



When cooking greens, we like to deglaze the pan with a little bourbon; the sweetness cuts their bitterness.



Bourbon makes a great cozy cocktail for a cool autumn night. The recipe below is one of our favorites, with a little cast-iron twist.

CHARRED OLD FASHIONED Makes 1 serving Charred orange peel adds smoky brightness to this balanced bourbon cocktail.

LAST In a large rocks glass, stir together bourbon, Simple Syrup, bitters, and ice until combined. Garnish with charred orange peel and cherry, if desired.

SIMPLE SYRUP 1

orange peel ¼ cup bourbon 1 teaspoon Simple Syrup (recipe follows) 3 dashes Angostura bitters Ice, to serve Garnish: cherry FIRST Heat a small cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add orange peel; cook until charred, 1 to 2 minutes. Let cool for 1 minute.

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Makes 1 cup

1 1

cup water cup sugar

FIRST In a small saucepan, bring 1 cup water and sugar to a boil over mediumhigh heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat, and let cool completely. Refrigerate up to 1 month.

ON THE TRAIL

c Cast Iron Fathers and sons tackle Tennessee’s Great Smoky Mountains with an unlikely companion—a cast-iron skillet

T

BY Y

JOS JOSH OSH HM MILLER IIL ILL ILLE L L ER LL ER

hirty years ago, my Dad shook me awake in the wee hours of a chilly October morning to depart for our first big adventure together—a backpacking trip in the Great Smoky Mountains of Tennessee. It was 1986, and I was a scrawny wisp of an eight-year-old, both thrilled and terrified at the adventure before us. Dad was 36, in the prime of his life, and sporting a Magnum P.I. mustache to prove it. He carried most of my gear; my pack was so light it was laughable. And although it took a lot of gentle encouragement on his part (in the form of Starburst candies, which he coaxed me up the trail with, like dangling a carrot in front of a stubborn mule), we had an amazing time. That hike led to a father-son tradition that we shared with other fathers and sons for years, until the sons grew up and got too busy to make the annual trip. And so the tradition became a cherished memory—until last fall. september/october 2017

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CrUx Of BaCkPaCkInG Is RiGhT “ThE ThErE In ThE NaMe—EvErYtHiNg YoU ThInK YoU WaNt Or NeEd FoR YoUr TrIp GoEs In A PaCk ThAt'S StRaPpEd To YoUr BaCk.



After years of talking about it, we finally decided to re-create that first backpacking trip. So we called up the crew, did a little training, and tackled the very modest three-day, 12-mile hikee from Cades Cove campground, up to Russelll Field, over to Spence Field, and back down again. I’m pleased to report that we all made it out alive—although not all of us unscathed. But we’ll get to that later. On our first hike, I didn’t really have a purpose, other than “helping.” I helped collect firewood. I helped pump and filter water. I helped do the dishes. I was eight— helping was all I had any business doing. So on this trip, I decided I needed a duty, and nd I would that duty was supper. I would plan the meals, and ntain castcook them—in the vintage Griswold Iron Mountain iron skillet that I planned on stowing in my backpack. Why pack a five-pound cast-iron skillet? Because I’m the editor of a cast-iron cooking magazine. However, the crux of backpacking is right there in its name— everything you think you want or need for your trip goes in a pack that’s strapped to your back. Naturally, serious backpackers take great pride in streamlining their gear to shave down as much weight as possible—they cut handles off toothbrushes, remove the cardboard from toilet paper rolls—you get my drift. That’s why it made absolutely no sense for me to pack a cast-iron skillet. It flies in the face of all backcountry common sense. Which is precisely why I had to do it.

Supper #1: The Beef Stew That Inspired a Marriage Proposal I’d like to say our first day of hiking was magical, but it was a bear of day—uphill, all the way, in the rain. But it was nothing that plenty of breaks, gigantic ponchos, and a running soundtrack of silly jokes couldn’t remedy. Needless to say, we were relieved when we finally arrived at the shelter around dusk. When you spend all day climbing hills with a 50-pound pack on your back, suppertime is a celebrated event. It’s also something you have to work for—filtering

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water, firing up tiny precarious stoves that sound like baby jet engines, timing everything just right. But it’s all worth it after that first bite of warm, hard-earned food. On that first trip, even though we mainly relied on freeze-dried meals to keep our backpacks light, my Dad packed in huge cans of Dinty Moore beef stew for dinner for the first night. (It was the 1980s; canned meat was still a thing.) Taking a cue from that trip, I picked up some cooked beef pot roast from the grocery store, which went into my pack frozen, along with a packet of Campbell’s Slow Cooker simmering sauce, and a few pouches of instant garlic mashed potatoes. After my Dad briefly set the shelter on fire while cranking up his stove (seriously!), we finally got the water boiling for the potatoes, then set the roast and sauce to simmer in my skillet. Miraculously, a group of hikers sharing the shelter with us had packed in some fresh parsley and thyme, which I eagerly stirred into the skillet. Sure, our meal was mostly pre-made, but within 20 minutes, we were ladling chunks of tender beef and rich sauce over surprisingly acceptable mashed potatoes. I’ll say this—it was much better than Dinty Moore, and worlds better than freeze-dried beef stroganoff. Naturally, we shared some stew with the hikers who had been so generous with their herbs. One of them said, and I quote with no hyperbole, “Man, I’m not that way, but after eating this, I’d marry you.” You gotta chuckle.

Supper #2: Sausage-Bean Soup and the Cornbread that Wasn’t Our second day of hiking was much more magical. The temperature had dropped overnight, freezing the raindrenched trees into a winter wonderland. Dad and I ended up hiking just the two us, so we took our time, walking the ridges, literally strolling through clouds as they drifted

Clockwise from top left: Dad and me on our ffirst hike; my cast-iron skillet at work; the original group, just older and wiser; my Dad’s original trail map; cooking back in the day; the Spence Field trail shelter; taking a break on our rough and rainy first day.

september/october 2017

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In ThE WoRlD I ThOuGhT ThAt CoOkInG A SuGaR-LaDeN “WhY CoBbLeR OvEr LaVa-HoT CoAlS WaS A GoOd IdEa Is SoMeThInG I CaN NeItHeR ExPlAiN NoR DeFeNd. I JuSt CrOsSeD My FiNgErS AnD HoPeD FoR ThE BeSt.



over their namesake Smoky Mountains. Right as we arrived at the shelter, the sun worked its way through the clouds, rewarding us with a perfect October afternoon— and plenty of time for some cast-iron mischief. I got a little carried away with the second night’s menu. I started with a couple of packets of my favorite dried bean soup mix made by a brand called Alessi. I’d also packed in an onion, a few cloves of garlic, and a couple carrots. After hiking a mile down and back to the creek for water, which I set to simmer with the soup mix, I perched on the bench outside the shelter and took my pocket knife to the vegetables. I finally got the sausage “cubed” and the vegetables roughly chopped, and into the skillet they went with a little bacon fat (a care package from my Test Kitchen friend and fellow cast-iron aficionado, Melissa) to brown before being stirred into the soup. I set that to cook a bit, and then got a little big for my britches. I’m no baker, even on a good day with an oven, so I wasn’t about to tackle real cornbread. But I figured I could wrangle a bag of “just add water” Martha White cornbread mix into an acceptable hoecake. So I mixed up the batter, spooned the rest of my bacon fat into the skillet, and got to work. After a minute or two, I tried to fl ip my hoecakes, only to discover they were stuck to the skillet like Velcro. After a moment of panic, I quickly pivoted and went for what I’m now calling a cornbread scramble. (Although I was calling it a few other unprintable names that night.) Basically, what I ended up with was toasted cornbread crumbs, which while not what I had intended, made a perfectly acceptable topping for our bowls of sausage and bean-filled soup. Or at least, nobody complained about it. To my face.

The Finale: Fruit Cobbler Cooked Over the Fires of Hell After the cornbread incident, I should have hung up my skillet and gone with my back-up plan for dessert, campfire s’mores. But why choose something easy when Clockwise from top left: Trail markers guide your way through the mountains; the skillet cobbler before it met its fiery doom; the fire that devoured the cobbler; Dad and me stopping for a rainy-day selfie.

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southern cast iron

you can aim higher and crash harder? I had packed in a mixture of brown sugar, cinnamon, oats, and chopped pecans, along with a second mixture of dried apples and cranberries. I even brought some vanilla. (Yes, I am that ridiculous!) Instead of using the camp stove, I wanted to try and cook over coals from the campfire. And that’s where things went south, fast. I had never cooked on a campfire before. Or over hot coals. So why in the world I thought that cooking a sugar-laden cobbler over lava-hot coals was a good idea is something I can neither explain nor defend. I just crossed my fingers and hoped for the best. In return I got a skillet that is still giving me the cold shoulder. Turns out that building a huge fire, scraping coals onto the hearth, then perching your cast-iron skillet on a ring of rocks over said hellfire coals is not the most scientific approach to campfire cooking. The result? Yet another skillet scramble, this one of the sweet-with-charred-bits variety. I’m not saying we didn’t eat it; but it was definitely not a “looker.” Dad’s comment of “Well, it tastes good,” echoed his consolations from my lackluster buddyball career— “Well, you played a good game, son.” Again, I could only laugh. Sometimes you just strike out. I scoured my sugarscathed skillet the best I could with the remains of my stash of kosher salt, and packed her up with the promise of a spa treatment when we returned to Birmingham. I learned a lot on our brief hike. I learned that cooking over an open fire takes practice. I learned that it helps to cook with a lot of fat. But the most valuable lessons weren’t in the practice of cast-iron cooking. My most precious takeaways were touch points to the past—lessons I’d let my busy present obscure. Backpacking is a very grounding experience; walking becomes your world. On a steep path, with upwards of 50 extra pounds on your back, every step is an exercise in mindfulness. Instead of being tethered to technology and to-do’s, you’re tuned in to putting one foot in front of the other. Even getting a drink of water is transformed from mindless convenience to a mind-opening experience. There’s a beautiful peace that comes from being perched on a rock in the middle of a trickling creek, filtering water with a hand pump, under a canopy of golden leaves that just barely holds back that impossibly blue October sky. But the most important lesson was that of following through with good intentions—for deciding to do instead of just talk. No matter how packed your daily calendar is, carve out time to take the trips and rekindle the connections that matter. Because at the end of the day, I didn’t notice the extra five pounds of that cast-iron skillet in my backpack. I was too wrapped up the simple act of walking through the woods with my Dad, eyes wide with wonder, both of us just as awed by the majesty of the mountains as we were 30 years ago.

popcorn EaSy ReCiPeS To TaKe YoUr MoViE NiGhT To ThE NeXt LeVeL

MELISSA GRAY JIM BATHIE & WILLIAM DICKEY STYLING BY BETH K. SEELEY

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY PHOTOGRAPHY BY

HERB-PARMESAN POPCORN PAGE 53

HERB-PARMESAN POPCORN Makes about 12 cups

DUTCH OVEN POPCORN Makes about 12 cups When the oil is heating, add a couple kernels of popcorn to the Dutch oven; when they pop, add the remaining kernels to the pan.

1

½

tablespoon vegetable oil cup popcorn kernels

FIRST In a large cast-iron Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add kernels; cover and shake until kernels begin to pop. Shake until popping slows to one pop every 5 seconds, 4 to 5 minutes.

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southern cast iron

Perfect for movie night, snacking, or even a meal, this flavored popcorn will have you coming back for more.

¼

cup unsalted butter tablespoons chopped fresh dill tablespoons chopped fresh oregano tablespoons chopped fresh parsley ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon garlic powder Dutch Oven Popcorn (recipe precedes) ½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese 2 2 2

FIRST In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add dill, oregano, parsley, salt, and garlic powder; cook for 1 minute. LAST In a large bowl, stir together Dutch Oven Popcorn and cheese. Pour herb butter over popcorn mixture, and stir until coated. Serve immediately.

CURRY-LIME POPCORN Makes about 12 cups

kitchen tip For a south of the border twist, substitute chili powder for the curry powder.

Think beyond your basic buttered popcorn. This curry-lime twist not only boasts a punch of bold flavor; it’s also a beautiful golden color.

¼ cup unsalted butter 1 tablespoon curry powder 1 tablespoon lime zest 1 teaspoon kosher salt Dutch Oven Popcorn (recipe on page 53) Garnish: lime zest FIRST In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Stir in curry powder, zest, and salt until combined. Pour mixture over Dutch Oven Popcorn, and stir until coated. Garnish with zest, if desired.

S’MORES POPCORN Makes about 12 cups This popcorn, with its melty clumps of marshmallows, crunchy graham crackers, and chocolate, is hard to resist.

Dutch Oven Popcorn (recipe on page 53) 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted ¾ teaspoon kosher salt 1½ cups lightly crushed graham cracker pieces 1 cup miniature marshmallows ½ cup chopped dark chocolate FIRST Preheat oven to broil. NEXT In a large bowl, stir together Dutch Oven Popcorn, melted butter, and salt until coated. Add crushed graham crackers and marshmallows, stirring to combine. Spread in an even layer on a large rimmed baking sheet. NEXT Broil until marshmallows are toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. LAST In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat chocolate on medium in 15-second intervals, stirring between each, until melted. Drizzle popcorn mixture with melted chocolate. Serve immediately, or let cool until chocolate hardens, 15 to 20 minutes.

kitchen tip Continually shaking the pan while the popcorn cooks prevents burning, and results in fewer unpopped kernels.

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SALTED CARAMEL PECAN POPCORN Makes about 12 cups Smoked salt adds extra flavor to this popcorn.

¾ 1½

cup unsalted butter cups pecan halves 1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar 1 teaspoon smoked salt ½ teaspoon baking soda Dutch Oven Popcorn (recipe on page 53)

FIRST Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. LAST In a large Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Add pecans and brown sugar; bring to a boil, and cook for 3 minutes. Stir in salt and baking soda until combined. Remove from heat; gently stir in Dutch Oven Popcorn until coated. Spread in an even layer on prepared pan. Let cool for 15 minutes.

freshly

baked

Homemade breads and biscuits for bakers of all skill levels

NANCY HUGHES CAROLINE SMITH AND MAC JAMIESON MARY BETH JONES AND SIDNEY BRAGIEL

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY PHOTOGRAPHY BY STYLING BY

Kitchen Tip: To make pecan flour, place 1 cup of pecan halves in the work bowl of a food processor. Process until finely ground, about 25 seconds.

PECAN & CREAM CORN CORNBREAD Makes 1 (12-inch) skillet This pecan cornbread tastes just like Thanksgiving dressing.

1¾ cups plain yellow cornmeal 1⅓ cups pecan flour ¾ cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons baking powder 2¾ teaspoons kosher salt ½ teaspoon onion powder ¾ cup roughly chopped pecans ½ cup roughly chopped fresh sage 2 (15-ounce) cans cream-style corn 1⅓ cups unsalted butter, melted 7 large eggs, lightly beaten ½ cup sugar FIRST Preheat oven to 400°. Place a 12-inch cast-iron skillet on middle rack of oven to preheat. NEXT In a medium bowl, stir together cornmeal, flours, baking powder, salt, and onion powder. Add pecans and sage. NEXT In a large bowl, whisk together corn, melted butter, eggs, and sugar. Add cornmeal mixture to corn mixture, stirring just until combined. Carefully remove hot skillet from oven. Spray with cooking spray. Pour batter into hot skillet. (It should sizzle.) LAST Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 30 to 40 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving.

BUTTERMILK PARKER HOUSE SKILLET ROLLS Makes 16 Buttermilk ups the ante on these classic rolls.

¼ 1

¾ 6

¼ 4½ 2

cup warm water (105° to 110°) teaspoon active dry yeast cup warm whole buttermilk (105° to 110°) tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and divided cup sugar cups all-purpose flour, divided large eggs

¾ ¼

teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon garlic powder

FIRST In a small bowl, stir together ¼ cup warm water and yeast. Let stand until mixture is foamy, about 5 minutes. NEXT In another small bowl, whisk together buttermilk, 4 tablespoons melted butter, and sugar. NEXT In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, beat buttermilk mixture, yeast mixture, 2¼ cups flour, eggs, salt, and garlic powder at medium-low speed until combined, about 2 minutes. Reduce mixer speed to low. Add remaining flour, ½ cup at a time, beating until a smooth ball forms, about 2 minutes. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and knead for 5 minutes. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray.

Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, about 1 hour. NEXT Punch down dough, and turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide dough into 16 equal pieces, and shape into balls. Cover and let rest for 5 minutes. Roll balls into 4-inch circles. Brush with remaining 2 tablespoons melted butter, and fold in half. Place in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet. Cover and let rise until doubled in size, about 30 minutes. NEXT Preheat oven to 350°. LAST Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes, covering with foil to prevent excess browning, if necessary. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving. Brush with extra melted butter, if desired.

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EVERYTHING ROLLS Makes 16 Packed with sunflower, poppy, flax, sesame, and fennel seeds, these rolls taste like everything bagels.

MANCHEGO BISCUITS WITH CORIANDER Makes 8 Crushed coriander seed brings out the sharp flavor of manchego cheese in these peppery biscuits.

3 3 1½ 1½ 1½ 1½

cups all-purpose flour tablespoons sugar tablespoons baking powder teaspoons kosher salt teaspoons ground black pepper teaspoons crushed coriander seed ¾ teaspoon baking soda ⅔ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed 1½ cups plus 2 tablespoons whole buttermilk, chilled and divided 1 cup grated manchego cheese, divided Lemon-Cilantro Butter (recipe follows) Garnish: flaked sea salt

pat dough into a 10x8-inch rectangle. Sprinkle with ¾ cup cheese. Fold dough into thirds, like a letter. Repeat patting and folding process twice. Roll dough 1 inch thick. Using a 2½-inch round cutter, cut dough, rerolling scraps once. Place biscuits in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, and brush with remaining 2 tablespoons buttermilk. LAST Bake for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup cheese, and bake until light golden brown, about 15 minutes more. Let cool completely on wire rack. Serve with Lemon-Cilantro Butter. Garnish with sea salt, if desired.

LEMON-CILANTRO BUTTER Makes 1 cup Lemon zest gives this herb butter a light, refreshing flavor; the cilantro pairs perfectly with the coriander in the biscuits.

1 FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. NEXT In a large bowl, stir together flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, pepper, coriander seed, and baking soda. Using two forks or a pastry blender, cut in cold butter until mixture is crumbly. Gradually add 1½ cups buttermilk, stirring just until dry ingredients are moistened. NEXT On a lightly floured surface, gently

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southern cast iron

¼ 2

½

cup unsalted butter, softened cup chopped fresh cilantro tablespoons lemon zest teaspoon kosher salt

FIRST In a medium bowl, stir together butter, cilantro, zest, and salt. Using a piece of parchment paper, shape butter into a log. Wrap in parchment, and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

2⅓ cups all-purpose flour 1⅓ cups whole wheat flour 1 cup warm water (105° to 110°) ¼ cup warm whole milk (105° to 110°) ¼ cup honey 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons active dry yeast ½ teaspoon onion powder 1 cup sunflower seeds 2½ tablespoons poppy seeds, divided 2 tablespoons flax seeds 1 large egg 1 teaspoon water 1½ teaspoons sesame seeds 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 1 teaspoon garlic salt 1 teaspoon diced onion flakes ½ teaspoon sea salt flakes Green Onion Spread (recipe follows) FIRST In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, stir together flours, 1 cup warm water, warm milk, honey, butter, salt, yeast, and onion powder. Beat at medium speed until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add sunflower seeds, 2 tablespoons poppy seeds, and flax seeds, beating until combined. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and knead 5 times. Shape dough into a ball. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover directly with plastic wrap, and let stand in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, about 1 hour. NEXT Preheat oven to 375°. Divide dough into 16 pieces; shape into balls. Place ½ inch apart in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet. Cover and let stand in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, about 15 minutes. NEXT In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 teaspoon water. In another small bowl, combine sesame seeds, fennel seeds, garlic salt, onion flakes, sea salt, and remaining ½ tablespoon poppy seeds. Brush rolls with egg wash; sprinkle with seed mix. LAST Bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes. Serve with Green Onion Spread.

GREE GR EEN ON EEN ONION SPREAD D Mak kess abo about ut 1 cup cup

4

½ ¼ 1

½

o nc ou n es cre eam m cheese, softened d cup p uns n al alte t d bu te butter, softened e cup p chopp ped d gre r en onion on teas te aspo as p on kos po o he h r sa salt lt tea asp spoo oon grou grou und bla lack ck pep ppe perr

FIRS FI RS ST In a med ediu iu um bo owll, st stir ir t ge to g th ther er cre eam am che he ee esse, but u ter, ter, gre te reen en onio on onio ion, n, sal alt, t, and d pep ppe per. Cov ov ver er and n rre efr frig iger ig e at er ate e fo forr up p to 5 days.

SWEET POTATO ANGEL BISCUITS Makes about 10 These heavenly yeasted sweet potato biscuits have a little bit of paprika for an extra layer of rich and cozy flavor.

⅓ cup warm water (105° to 110°) 2 teaspoons active dry yeast 2½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon paprika ½ cup all-vegetable shortening 1 cup mashed sweet potatoes Garnish: melted butter, salt, ground black pepper FIRST In a small bowl, combine ⅓ cup warm water and yeast. Let stand until mixture is bubbly, about 5 minutes. NEXT In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and paprika. Using two forks or a pastry blender, cut in shortening until mixture is crumbly. Stir in yeast mixture and sweet potatoes just until combined. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover with plastic wrap, and let stand in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, about 1 hour. NEXT On a lightly floured surface, roll dough ½ inch thick. Using a 2-inch round cutter, cut dough, rerolling scraps once. Place biscuits in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet. Cover and let rise in a warm, draftfree place (75°) until doubled in size, 20 to 30 minutes. LAST Preheat oven to 400°. Bake until golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving. Brush with melted butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper, if desired.

Kitchen Tip: Pillowy soft with a buttery flavor, these angel biscuits are perfect for sandwiches and sliders.

ROSEMARY-POTATO DUTCH OVEN BREAD Makes 1 loaf A twist on a classic potato bread, this Dutch oven loaf pairs perfectly with any menu.

6 1 1

¾ ¼ 3 1 1 2 1

cloves garlic tablespoon olive oil cup cooked mashed russet potatoes cup warm water (105° to 110°) cup firmly packed light brown sugar cups bread flour tablespoon instant yeast tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon ground black pepper

FIRST Preheat oven to 400°. In a small bowl, toss together garlic and oil. Transfer to a sheet of foil, and wrap to cover completely. NEXT Bake for 30 minutes. Let cool completely. Remove peels, and discard; set cloves aside. NEXT In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, stir together potato, ¾ cup warm water,

and brown sugar. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, yeast, rosemary, salt, and pepper. With mixer on mediumhigh speed, add flour mixture to potato mixture, beating until smooth, about 15 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add garlic cloves, and beat just until combined. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and shape into a ball. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover with plastic wrap, and let stand in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, about 1 hour. NEXT Place a 4-quart cast-iron Dutch oven in oven, and preheat to 450°. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured piece of parchment paper, and shape into a round. Loosely cover with plastic wrap, and let stand for 20 minutes. NEXT Dust top of loaf with flour. Using a sharp paring knife, cut 1-inch slits in top of dough in desired pattern. Carefully place loaf and parchment paper in Dutch oven. LAST Cover and bake until deep brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes before serving.

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CHEESY HERB ROLLS Makes 10 A great side to any meal, these rolls are a cheesy, garlicky dream.

½ ½

cup warm whole milk (105° to 110°) cup warm water (105° to 110°) 2 tablespoons sugar 2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast 3 cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and divided 1 large egg yolk Cheese and Herb Filling (recipe follows) ½ cup fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into ½-inch pieces 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil

SPICY SWEET POTATO DUTCH OVEN BREAD Makes 1 braided loaf This is a perfect use for leftover mashed sweet potatoes, with a sweet and spicy kick.

1

cup cooked mashed sweet potato cup warm water (105° to 110°) cup firmly packed light brown sugar cups bread flour 1 tablespoon instant yeast 2 teaspoons kosher salt ¾ teaspoon ground chipotle chile pepper Garnish: smoked paprika

¾ ¼ 3¼

FIRST In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, stir together sweet potato, ¾ cup warm water, and brown sugar. NEXT In a large bowl, whisk together flour, yeast, salt, and chile pepper. With mixer on medium-high speed, add flour mixture to sweet potato mixture, beating

65

southern cast iron

until smooth, about 15 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and shape into a ball. (Dough may be sticky; use additional flour if needed.) Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover with plastic wrap, and let stand in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, about 1 hour. NEXT Place a 7-quart oval cast-iron Dutch oven in oven, and preheat to 425°. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured piece of parchment paper. Divide into 3 equal pieces, and shape each into a 12-inch-long rope. Pinch ropes together at one end; braid, and pinch ends together. Gently tuck both pinched ends slightly under braid. Loosely cover loaf with plastic wrap, and let stand for 20 minutes. LAST Place loaf and parchment paper in Dutch oven. Cover and bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire rack. Garnish with smoked paprika, if desired.

FIRST In a medium bowl, combine warm milk, ½ cup warm water, sugar, and yeast. Let stand until mixture is frothy and bubbly, about 5 minutes. NEXT In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, whisk together flour and salt. With mixer on low speed, add yeast mixture, 4 tablespoons melted butter, and egg yolk, beating just until combined. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Beat at medium speed until dough is smooth and elastic, about 7 minutes. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, about 1 hour. NEXT Spray a 12-inch cast-iron skillet with cooking spray. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and roll into a 15x10-inch rectangle. Spread Cheese and Herb Filling onto dough. Starting with one long side, roll dough into a log; pinch seam to seal. Slice into 10 rolls. Place rolls in prepared skillet. Cover and let rise in a warm, draftfree place (75°) until doubled in size, about 45 minutes, placing mozzarella pieces in between buns halfway through rising. NEXT Preheat oven to 350°. Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes. LAST In a small bowl, whisk together oregano, thyme, basil, and remaining 2 tablespoons melted butter. Brush onto warm buns.

CHEESE AND HERB FILLING Makes about 2 cups

1 1 1 1

¾ 3 3 1

¾ ¾

tablespoon olive oil tablespoon minced garlic cup unsalted butter, softened cup shredded mozzarella cheese cup grated Parmesan cheese tablespoons chopped fresh oregano tablespoons chopped fresh basil tablespoon chopped fresh thyme teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground black pepper

FIRST In a small saucepan, heat oil over medium-low heat. Add garlic; cook, stirring constantly, until light golden brown, about 1 minute. Remove from heat, and let cool completely. LAST In a medium bowl, beat garlic, butter, and all remaining ingredients with a mixer at medium speed until well combined.

squash

Harvest New ways with the humble hero of fall gardens

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

WILLIAM DICKEY

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY STYLING BY

BETH K. SEELEY

ANNA THEOKTISTO

ROASTED ACORN SQUASH HALVES WITH HONEYED GOAT CHEESE PAGE 71

Kitchen Tip: To cut spaghetti squash, poke it all over with a knife, and microwave it on high for 3 to 5 minutes. Let it cool enough to handle, and cut in half.

CHORIZO AND KALE STUFFED SPAGHETTI SQUASH Makes 4 This hearty dish makes a filling supper.

2 3 4 1

spaghetti squash tablespoons olive oil, divided teaspoons kosher salt, divided pound fresh chorizo sausage, casings removed 1 cup chopped yellow onion 1 clove garlic, minced 2 medium tomatoes, chopped 4 cups packed chopped fresh kale ½ cup dry white wine 12 (⅛-inch-thick) slices fontina cheese FIRST Preheat oven to 425°. NEXT Cut squash in half lengthwise; scoop out seeds and discard. Drizzle squash with 2 tablespoons oil, and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt. Place squash, cut side down, on a cast-iron pizza pan or griddle. NEXT Bake until tender, about 25 minutes. Let cool. Increase oven to 450°. NEXT When cool enough to handle, gently scrape squash with a fork to remove flesh in long strands, and transfer to a large bowl; reserve squash skin. NEXT In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil over mediumhigh heat. Add chorizo; cook, breaking up meat with a wooden spoon, until browned, about 6 minutes. Add onion and garlic; cook until onions are tender, about 3 minutes. Add tomatoes; cook for 2 minutes. Add kale and wine; cook, stirring frequently, until kale is tender, about 4 minutes. NEXT Spoon chorizo mixture into bowl with spaghetti squash. Add remaining 3 teaspoons salt, stirring gently to combine. NEXT Spoon squash mixture into reserved squash skins. Top each with 3 slices fontina. LAST Bake until cheese is melted and squash is heated through, about 10 minutes.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP

¼ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring

frequently, until onions are caramelized, about 30 minutes. NEXT Add wine and curry powder, Blended to silky perfection, this soup pairs stirring to release brown bits from perfectly with your favorite grilled cheese. bottom of pan. Cook until slightly reduced, about 3 minutes. Add squash, 2 tablespoons unsalted butter broth, pepper, and remaining 1 large sweet onion, thinly sliced 2 teaspoons salt; bring to a boil. Reduce 2¼ teaspoons kosher salt, divided heat to medium-low, and simmer until ½ cup dry white wine squash is tender, about 30 minutes. 1 teaspoon curry powder LAST Strain solids from broth, reserving 5 cups cubed butternut squash broth. Transfer solids to the container 6 cups low-sodium chicken broth of a blender; purée until smooth. Place Pinch ground black pepper purée back in Dutch oven; add broth ½ cup unsweetened coconut milk Garnish: fresh cilantro, chopped pepitas, until desired consistency is reached. Stir in coconut milk. Heat over medium heat ground red pepper until hot. Garnish with cilantro, pepitas, FIRST In a large cast-iron Dutch oven, melt and red pepper, if desired. butter over medium heat. Add onion and Makes 4 to 6 servings

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RICE WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS Makes 10 to 12 servings Filled with flavorful ingredients, this updated pilaf makes a great side or main dish.

10 slices bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved or quartered 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1½ teaspoons cumin seeds ½ teaspoon smoked paprika ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper 1 cup chopped yellow onion 3 cups diced butternut squash 1½ cups basmati rice, rinsed with cold water 2⅓ cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 tablespoons pomegranate arils

ROASTED ACORN SQUASH HALVES WITH HONEYED GOAT CHEESE Makes 4 With just a few ingredients, this easy showstopping side is sure to impress.

2 2

acorn squash tablespoons unsalted butter, softened ¼ cup firmly packed light brown sugar 1 (8-ounce) package goat cheese, softened 2 tablespoons honey ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper Garnish: fresh thyme

71

southern cast iron

FIRST Preheat oven to 425°. NEXT Cut squash in half lengthwise; scoop out seeds and discard. Carefully trim about an ⅛ inch off bottom of each half so squash will sit flat, cut side up, on a cast-iron pizza pan or griddle. Using a sharp knife, carefully score flesh of squash. Rub with butter, and sprinkle with brown sugar. NEXT Bake until tender and golden brown, about 55 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes. Remove any liquid from center of each squash half. NEXT In a small bowl, stir together goat cheese and honey. Spoon cheese mixture into center of each squash. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. LAST Bake until heated through, about 10 minutes. Drizzle with additional honey. Garnish with thyme, if desired.

FIRST In a cast-iron chicken fryer, cook bacon over medium heat until crisp, about 10 minutes. Remove bacon from pan, and let drain on paper towels. Increase heat to medium-high. Working in batches, add Brussels sprouts to hot bacon drippings, and cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from pan; set aside. Reduce heat to medium. Wipe out pan. NEXT Add butter to pan, and let melt. Add cumin seeds; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add paprika and red pepper; cook for 1 minute. Stir in onion; cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in squash; cook, covered, until squash is slightly tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in rice; cook for 2 minutes. Add broth and salt; bring to a boil. Cover and reduce heat to low. Cook, without lifting lid, until rice is cooked through, 18 to 20 minutes. LAST Remove from heat, and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Remove lid, and fluff rice with a fork. Stir in cooked bacon and Brussels sprouts. Sprinkle with pomegranate arils.

Kitchen Tip: Make this dish vegetarian by leaving out the bacon and using vegetable stock in place of the broth. Use 3 tablespoons canola oil to brown the Brussels sprouts.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH LATKES Makes 14 Perfect for appetizers or even a meal, these latkes are not only pretty, they're good for you.

6

cups grated butternut squash cup grated sweet onion 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2⅛ teaspoons kosher salt, divided ½ teaspoon ground ginger ½ teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper, divided 1 large egg, lightly beaten ¼ cup canola oil ½ cup sour cream 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives Garnish: chopped fresh chives

½

FIRST In a large bowl, stir together squash, onion, flour, 2 teaspoons salt, ginger, coriander, ½ teaspoon pepper, and egg until combined. NEXT In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Working in batches, scoop ¼ cup butternut mixture into skillet, flattening slightly with the back of a spatula. Cook until golden brown, about 4 minutes per side. Let drain on a wire rack. LAST In a small bowl, stir together sour cream, chives, remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt, and remaining ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Serve with latkes. Garnish with chives, if desired.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH MAC AND CHEESE Makes 6 to 8 servings We used a combination of three cheeses to give this mac and cheese maximum creaminess.

(2½- to 3-pound) butternut squash, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 teaspoons olive oil ¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2½ cups whole milk ¼ teaspoon dry mustard Dash Worcestershire sauce Pinch ground red pepper 1

1

cup cubed triple crème Brie cheese, rind removed 1 cup shredded aged Gouda cheese 2 cups shredded sharp white Cheddar, divided 6 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives 8 ounces penne pasta, cooked according to package directions 16 buttery round crackers, crushed FIRST Preheat oven to 425°. NEXT On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss together squash, oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and black pepper. NEXT Bake, stirring once, until tender, about 20 minutes. Reduce oven to 400°.

NEXT In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add flour; cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Gradually whisk in milk, mustard, Worcestershire, red pepper, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook, whisking constantly, until mixture thickens, about 10 minutes. Stir in Brie, Gouda, 1 cup Cheddar, bacon, and chives; cook until cheese is melted. Remove from heat. NEXT Stir in cooked pasta and roasted squash. Top with crushed crackers and remaining 1 cup Cheddar. LAST Bake until bubbly and cheese is melted, about 10 minutes.

september/october 2017

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cast-iron

PIES

Cradled in a aky, buttery crust, these desserts are the perfect way to celebrate fall

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

JIM BATHIE

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY

ELIZABETH STRINGER BETH K. SEELEY

STYLING BY

cover Recipe

CARAMEL APPLE PIE Makes 1 (10-inch) pie

Pie Tips ■

Use cold ingredients and combine them quickly to create the perfect flaky piecrust.



Refrigerate dough for 30 minutes to allow butter to set and the flour to absorb liquid ingredients.



Roll dough onto rolling pin to help transfer the piecrust to the skillet.



Pie dough can be stored in a heavy duty resealable bag and frozen for up to 3 months.



When making meringue, use clean beaters and a clean bowl to ensure stiff peaks form.



Never made a lattice-topped pie before? No problem. Visit southerncastiron.com for a step-by-step tutorial.

A generous helping of brown sugar caramel takes this apple pie from average to unbelievable. Crust: 2⅔ cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup cold unsalted butter, cubed ¼ cup apple cider vinegar ¼ cup ice water Caramel: cup unsalted butter 1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar

½

Filling: ⅓ cup granulated sugar ⅓ cup firmly packed light brown sugar 3 tablespoons cornstarch 1½ teaspoons apple pie spice ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt 6 cups sliced apple, such as Gala or Fuji (about 2½ pounds) 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 large egg 1 tablespoon water 1 tablespoon turbinado sugar Vanilla ice cream, to serve FIRST Preheat oven to 375°. NEXT For crust: In the work bowl of a food processor, place flour, sugar, and salt; pulse until combined. Add cold butter, pulsing until mixture is crumbly. With processor running, gradually add vinegar and ice water, processing until combined. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and divide in half. Shape each half into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. NEXT For caramel: In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Whisk in brown sugar, and cook until bubbly and sugar is dissolved. Let cool in pan. NEXT Let dough stand at room temperature until slightly softened, about 15 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll 1 disk of dough ⅛ inch thick. Place dough directly on top of

caramel sauce, pressing into bottom and up sides. Trim dough to edge of skillet. NEXT For filling: In a large bowl, whisk together sugars, cornstarch, apple pie spice, and salt. Add apples and lemon juice, tossing to coat. Spoon apple mixture into prepared crust. NEXT On a lightly floured surface, roll remaining dough ⅛ inch thick. Using a sharp knife, cut 1-inch-wide strips. Braid 3 strips together, and set aside. Arrange remaining strips in a lattice design on top of filling. Place braided strip on top as desired. Fold edges under. NEXT In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon water. Lightly brush crust with egg wash; sprinkle with turbinado sugar. Place skillet on a baking sheet. LAST Bake until crust is golden brown and apples are tender, about 45 minutes, loosely covering with foil during last 10 minutes of baking to prevent excess browning. Serve warm with ice cream, if desired.

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PEAR, CRANBERRY, AND GINGER PIES Makes 6 (6-inch) pies

Loaded with tart cranberries, these miniature treats are part crumble, part pie, and all delicious. Crust: 1⅓ cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed 3 to 4 tablespoons whole buttermilk, chilled Filling: 3 cups fresh or frozen cranberries 3 pears, sliced 1½ cups sugar ¼ cup all-purpose flour 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, minced Topping: ¾ cup old-fashioned oats ¼ cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup firmly packed light brown sugar ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. NEXT For crust: In the work bowl of a food processor, place flour, sugar, and salt. Add cold butter, pulsing until mixture is crumbly. With processor running, gradually add 3 tablespoons buttermilk until a dough forms. Add remaining 1 tablespoon buttermilk, if needed. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and shape into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. NEXT Let dough stand at room temperature until slightly softened, about 15 minutes. Divide dough into 6 equal portions. On a lightly floured surface, roll each portion ⅛ inch thick. Transfer to 6 (6-inch) cast-iron skillets, pressing into bottom and up sides. NEXT For filling: In a medium bowl, toss together cranberries, pears, sugar, flour, and ginger. Divide filling among prepared crusts. NEXT For topping: In a small bowl, stir together oats, flour, brown sugar, and melted butter. Sprinkle topping over filling. LAST Bake until crust is golden brown and filling is bubbly, about 30 minutes. Serve warm.

SPICED-HONEY PUMPKIN CROSTATA Makes 1 (10-inch) pie

Give your go-to pumpkin pie an update with a touch of honey and a generous dash of spice. Crust: 1⅓ cups all-purpose flour ⅓ cup chopped pecans 2 teaspoons sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water Filling: 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground ginger ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg ¼ teaspoon ground allspice ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin 1 cup evaporated milk ½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar ½ cup honey 2 large eggs 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted Topping: 1 large egg 1 tablespoon water 1 tablespoon finely chopped pecans Honey Whipped Cream: 1 cup heavy whipping cream 2 tablespoons honey Garnish: pumpkin pie spice FIRST Preheat oven to 375°. NEXT For crust: In the work bowl of a food processor, place flour, pecans, sugar, and salt; pulse until finely ground. Add cold butter, pulsing until mixture is crumbly. With processor running, gradually add 3 tablespoons ice water until a dough forms. Add remaining 1 tablespoon ice water, if needed. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and shape into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. NEXT Let dough stand at room

temperature until slightly softened, about 15 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough ⅛ inch thick. Transfer to a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, pressing into bottom and up sides. Let edges extend over sides of pan. Freeze for 1 hour. NEXT For filling: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, allspice, and salt. Whisk in pumpkin, evaporated milk, brown sugar, honey, eggs, and melted butter until combined. Pour into prepared crust. Fold

edges of crust gently over top of filling. NEXT For topping: In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon water. Brush crust lightly with egg wash, and sprinkle with pecans. NEXT Bake until center is set, about 45 minutes. Let cool completely on wire rack. LAST For whipped cream: In a medium bowl, beat cream and honey with a mixer at high speed until stiff peaks form. Top crostata with whipped cream. Garnish with pumpkin pie spice, if desired.

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S’MORES CHEESECAKE PIE Makes 1 (10-inch) pie

With toasty waves of homemade marshmallow fluff, this chocolate-filled treat is irresistible. Crust: 2 cups graham cracker crumbs ¼ cup sugar ½ cup unsalted butter, melted 2 large egg whites, lightly beaten

Filling: ½ (12-ounce) package semisweet chocolate morsels ¼ cup unsalted butter ½ tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder 2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened 1 cup sugar 2 large eggs 1 (8-ounce) container sour cream 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Topping: 3 large egg whites ½ teaspoon cream of tartar ⅔ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided ¾ cup light corn syrup ⅓ cup water 2 teaspoons vanilla extract FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. NEXT For crust: In a large bowl, stir together graham cracker crumbs and sugar. Add melted butter, stirring to combine. Stir in egg whites. Press mixture firmly into bottom and 1 inch up sides of a 10-inch cast-iron skillet. NEXT Bake for 6 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack for 20 minutes. Reduce oven to 300°. NEXT For filling: In a medium saucepan, heat chocolate morsels, butter, and cocoa over low heat, stirring constantly, until smooth. Remove from heat, and set aside. In a large bowl, beat cream cheese with a mixer at medium speed until creamy. Gradually add sugar, beating until combined. Add eggs, one at a time, beating just until combined after each addition. With mixer on low speed, add sour cream and vanilla, beating until smooth. Fold in chocolate mixture. Pour into prepared crust. NEXT Bake for 1½ hours. Turn oven off, and leave cheesecake in oven with door closed for 2 hours. Remove from oven. Let cool completely on a wire rack. Cover and refrigerate for 8 hours. NEXT For topping: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites and cream of tartar at medium-high speed until foamy. Add 2 tablespoons sugar, and beat until soft peaks form. NEXT In a small saucepan, cook corn syrup, ⅓ cup water, and remaining ⅔ cup sugar over medium heat, stirring constantly, until mixture registers 248° on a candy thermometer, about 15 minutes. LAST Reduce mixer speed to medium. Add corn syrup mixture in a slow, steady stream. Increase mixer speed to high. Beat for 4 minutes. Add vanilla bean paste, and beat for 1 minute. Using an offset spatula, swirl fluff onto cheesecake. Using a kitchen torch or broiler, lightly brown topping.

CHOCOLATE-CARAMEL TRIPLE NUT TART Makes about 12 servings

This scrumptious tart is a glorious marriage of homemade caramel and rich chocolate. Crust: 1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup confectioners’ sugar ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, cubed 1 large egg Filling: 5 tablespoons heavy whipping cream 4½ tablespoons sweetened condensed milk ½ cup sugar 6 tablespoons golden syrup 2 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened ½ cup slivered almonds ½ cup chopped hazelnuts ½ cup chopped cashews ½ teaspoon kosher salt Topping: 7 ounces milk chocolate, chopped 5 tablespoons heavy whipping cream 2 tablespoons slivered almonds 2 tablespoons chopped hazelnuts 2 tablespoons chopped cashews FIRST Preheat oven to 375°. NEXT For crust: In the work bowl of a food processor, place flour, confectioners’ sugar, and salt; pulse until combined. Add cold butter, pulsing until mixture is crumbly. With processor running, gradually add egg, pulsing until a dough forms. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and shape into a square. Press into bottom and up sides of a 9-inch square cast-iron skillet. Freeze for 30 minutes. NEXT Pierce dough all over with a fork. Top with a piece of parchment paper, letting ends extend over edges of pan. Add pie weights. Bake for 20 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire rack.

NEXT For filling: In a small saucepan, heat cream and condensed milk over low heat, stirring until combined. Remove from heat, and keep warm. NEXT In a medium saucepan, heat sugar, golden syrup, and 2 tablespoons water over low heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved. Increase heat to medium, and cook, without stirring, until mixture is amber colored and registers 240° on a candy thermometer. Remove from heat, and carefully stir in cream mixture. (Caramel will bubble vigorously.) Return to heat, and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture registers 240° on a candy thermometer. Stir in butter, nuts, and salt. Pour into prepared crust. Let cool completely. LAST For topping: Place chocolate in a small bowl. In a small saucepan, bring

cream to a simmer over medium heat. Pour hot cream over chocolate. Let stand for 2 minutes; stir until smooth. Pour chocolate over caramel layer, smoothing with an offset spatula, if necessary. Top with nuts. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow chocolate to set. Let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes before serving.

Kitchen Tip: When making caramel, brush the sides of the saucepan with water to remove any sugar crystals that could cause the caramel to sieze.

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APPLE-PECAN CROSTATA Makes 1 (12-inch) tart

This no-fuss take on a classic apple pie gets a sweet and buttery crunch from cane syrup coated pecans. Crust: 1⅓ cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water Filling: ¾ cup granulated sugar 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon cornstarch ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt 3 to 4 large Gala apples, peeled, cored, and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1 cup pecan halves 2 tablespoons cane syrup 1 large egg 1 tablespoon water 1 tablespoon turbinado sugar ½ cup caramel topping* FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. Line a 12-inch cast-iron skillet with parchment paper. NEXT For crust: In the work bowl of a food processor, place flour, sugar, and salt; pulse until combined. Add cold butter, pulsing until mixture is crumbly. With processor running, gradually add 3 tablespoons ice water, pulsing until a dough forms. Add remaining 1 tablespoon ice water, if needed. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and shape into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. NEXT Let dough stand at room temperature until slightly softened, about 15 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough ⅛ inch thick. Transfer to prepared skillet, pressing into bottom and up sides. NEXT For filling: In a small bowl, whisk together granulated sugar, flour, cornstarch, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. NEXT In a large bowl, toss apple slices with sugar mixture and vanilla. Arrange apples over dough in a circular pattern. NEXT In a small bowl, toss pecans with cane syrup, and scatter over apples. Fold edges of dough over filling. In another small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon water. Brush edges of dough with egg wash, and sprinkle with turbinado sugar. LAST Bake until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool slightly. Just before serving, drizzle with caramel topping. *We used Smucker’s.

OATMEAL RUM RAISIN PIE Makes 1 (10-inch) pie

If you like oatmeal cookies, you'll love this spiked pie. Each slice is ooey, gooey, and oh-so-delicious. Crust: 1⅓ cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed 3 to 4 tablespoons rum Filling: 1 cup raisins ½ cup dark rum ½ cup water ⅓ cup golden raisins 1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg ¼ teaspoon ground ginger

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¼ 4 1

¼ 1½ 1½ 1 1

teaspoon kosher salt large eggs, lightly beaten cup light corn syrup cup salted butter, melted teaspoons vanilla extract cups old-fashioned oats large egg tablespoon water

Garnish: cane syrup FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. NEXT For crust: In the work bowl of a food processor, place flour, sugar, and salt; pulse until combined. Add cold butter, pulsing until mixture is crumbly. With processor running, gradually add 3 tablespoons rum, pulsing until a dough forms. Add remaining 1 tablespoon rum, if needed. NEXT Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and shape into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

NEXT Let dough stand at room temperature until slightly softened, about 15 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough ⅛ inch thick. Transfer to a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, pressing into bottom and up sides. Fold edges under, and crimp as desired. NEXT For filling: In a small saucepan, bring raisins, rum, ½ cup water, and golden raisins to a boil over mediumhigh heat. Remove from heat, and let stand for 30 minutes; drain. NEXT In a large bowl, whisk together brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and salt. Stir in eggs, corn syrup, melted butter, and vanilla until combined. Stir in 1½ cups oats and rumsoaked raisins. Pour into prepared crust. NEXT In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon water. Brush edges of crust with egg wash. LAST Bake until center is set, 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool for at least 4 hours before serving. Garnish with cane syrup, if desired.

BUTTERSCOTCH CHESS PIE Makes 1 (10-inch) pie

A little butterscotch adds extra richness to each bite of this velvety confection. Pie: 1 (14.1-ounce) package refrigerated piecrusts 1 large egg white, lightly beaten ½ cup unsalted butter 1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar ⅔ cup maple syrup ½ teaspoon kosher salt ⅔ cup heavy whipping cream 2½ tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 6 large eggs Meringue: 3 large egg whites 1 teaspoon cream of tartar 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar FIRST Position oven rack to lowest setting, and preheat oven to 400°. NEXT For pie: On a lightly floured surface, unroll one piecrust. Lightly brush with water, and place second crust on top, rolling to seal layers together. Transfer to a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, pressing into bottom and up sides. Fold edges under, and crimp as desired. Top with a piece of parchment paper, letting ends extend over edges of pan. Add pie weights. NEXT Bake for 10 minutes. Carefully remove paper and weights. Brush hot crust with egg white. Let cool on a wire rack for 20 minutes. Reduce oven to 325°. NEXT In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add brown sugar, maple syrup, and salt. Bring to a simmer, and cook for 3 minutes. Remove from heat, and whisk in cream. NEXT In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, vinegar, vanilla, and eggs. Whisk a small amount of hot butter mixture into egg mixture. Gradually whisk remaining butter mixture into egg mixture. Pour into prepared crust. NEXT Bake until set, about 35 minutes, covering with foil to prevent excess browning, if necessary. Let cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Increase oven to 425°. NEXT For meringue: In a glass bowl, beat egg whites and cream of tartar with a mixer at high speed until foamy. Gradually add confectioners’ sugar, beating until glossy stiff peaks form. Spoon meringue over pie. LAST Bake until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire rack before serving.

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IrOn PrIdE TrEaSuReD By CoLlEcToRs, GrIsWoLd MaY Be ThE BeSt CaSt IrOn EvEr MaDe

C

ast-iron cookware represents many things to many people. For some, it’s a family heirloom, handed down by their grandmothers. For others, it’s the best way to sear a steak or bake a crispy round of cornbread. And then there are the serious collectors who live and breathe cast iron. Many began collecting 25 or 30 years ago when vintage cast-iron cookware was relatively inexpensive and easy to find. Their collections number in the hundreds, sometimes in the thousands of pieces. For them, cast-iron collecting has become a way of life. Southern Cast Iron caught up with some of these hard-core collectors last May at the Griswold & Cast Iron Cookware Association’s (G&CICA) 25th Annual Convention in Springfield, Missouri. We met people who specialize in collecting everything from Birmingham Stove & Range to Wagner. But among serious collectors, STORY BY

BETTY TERRY /

one brand is revered more than the rest—Griswold. Many consider it to be the best cast-iron ever made. Founded in Erie, Pennsylvania, in the 1860s by Matthew Griswold and his cousins, J. C. and Samuel Selden, the company was known originally as the Selden & Griswold Manufacturing Company. Matthew Griswold bought out his cousins’ interest, and in 1887 the company was reorganized as the Griswold Manufacturing Company. Until 1957, when the foundry closed its doors, Griswold was widely recognized as the finest maker of cast-iron cookware in the country. With the rise of the railroads in the late 1800s, Griswold pieces were shipped across the country and around the world. Easily identified by its logo, the Griswold name inside a cross inside a circle, or just the word “Erie” for the city where it was made, today Griswold cast iron can be found throughout the United States. PHOTOGRAPHY BY

SARAH LAMB

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What is it about Griswold that makes it so special? Brad Schwarting of Lowville, New York, says it’s like comparing a sterling silver bowl to one that is silverplated. “I can tell the difference in my hands,” he points out. “Griswold iron is lightweight, and it has a superb finish to it—a silky smooth finish.” Modern collectors attribute that finish to the quality of the sand that was used to create the molds for Griswold. “They used a finer grain sand for casting,” Brad says. Griswold pieces started out with a smoother surface before any additional finishing was done. He also thinks it might have had something to do with how the molds were made. Many years ago, a former mold-maker for Griswold told Brad about the extra care they took in making their patterns. “They began by turning a piece of wood on a lathe to get it close to the shape they wanted,” Brad says. “Then they took days to finish them by hand.” “Griswold is the ultimate in cast-iron cookware,” agrees Jon Haussler of Decatur, Alabama. Its quality is second to none, he says. A Pennsylvania native, Jon moved to Alabama to work in the space program in 1959, and he decided to stay. “I eat turnip greens and cornbread now,” he quips. When Jon started collecting cast iron in the 1990s, he approached it with the meticulousness of a former NASA engineer. “I’m a detail person. When I get interested in something, I keep digging,” he says. “I always want to find out more.” Jon’s particular interest is in collecting Griswold muffin pans. When he attended a convention of Griswold collectors in Plant City, Florida, in 1994, where the top experts in the country had gathered, he asked, “How many variations of Griswold muffin pans are there?” The answer came back, “Nobody knows.” Jon couldn’t accept that answer, and so he kept digging. It led him to publish Griswold Muffin Pans in 1996. “Nobody knows what’s out there,” Jon points out. “That’s what makes Griswold so intriguing.”

THIS PAGE Left: Brad Schwarting shows off a Griswold mailbox. Below, left: A Griswold #0 waffle iron. Below, right: an advertisement from the early 20th century shows pieces originally sold for less than $2. Right: Griswold made cast-iron cookware under many different names. PREVIOUS PAGE Left: Larry Bullock of Iowa with his vintage #8 skillet. Center: John Edd and Robyn Richardson of Collinsville, Oklahoma, show off their Griswold Bundt pan. Right: Regina Miller of Los Angeles.

GrIsWoLd TiMeLiNe 1865

Matthew Griswold and his cousins, brothers Samuel and J.C. Selden, open a factory, making hinges and other light hardware.

1870

S The company begins to make skillets, pots, and waffle irons, and is renamed Selden & Griswold Manufacturing Company.

1884

Matthew Griswold buys out his cousins’ interests in the company.

1887

After a fire and the rebuilding of the foundry, the company is reorganized and chartered as the Griswold Manufacturing Company.

1946

Ely Griswold, Matthew Griswold’s grandson, retires and sells Griswold to a New York investment group.

1957

The company and its many patents are sold to Wagner Manufacturing Company of Sidney, Ohio. Wagner moves production to Ohio.

Although many Griswold catalogs have surfaced over the years, Jon owns pieces that have never appeared in any catalog. “We just don’t know what they made or how many they made of it,” he says. There’s always an element of mystery and adventure for any serious collector. You never know what you may find. Once bitten by the cast-iron-collecting bug, there are few lengths collectors won’t go to for the perfect “pick.” Any trip from point A to point B is an excuse to stop at antique stores and junk shops along the way to search for vintage pieces. G&CICA members told us of finding vintage cast-iron pieces in old barns and sheds and even buried in the ground. Any gathering of friends (most of them cast-iron collectors, too) is an opportunity to brag about their latest find. Collectors are fortunate that the majority of Griswold cast iron is clearly branded. Most of the pieces made after 1900 were marked in some way. But not with just the Griswold or Erie name—the company manufactured cast iron under many other names, including Victor, Good Health, and Puritan and Merit (sold by Sears). Even if none of these names appear on a piece, it can often be identified as a Griswold-made piece by comparing its pattern number to the list of Below, left: Karen Pfeiffer brought this #12 Blacklock skillet (a precursor to Lodge) from Silverton, Oregon. Center: Collectors Linda and Rich Wyman. Right: Vince Warren of Bear River, Wyoming, hefts two Griswold spider skillets.

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CoNnEcT WiTh CoLlEcToRs Interested in learning more about vintage cast-iron cookware? Join one or both of the two national cast-iron cookware clubs—the Griswold & Cast Iron Cookware Association (G&CICA) and the Wagner and Griswold Society (WAGS). The clubs hold annual conventions where members can meet and socialize, learn, see, and sometimes even have an opportunity to buy special collector’s pieces. Each club sends a quarterly newsletter and maintains a website including a member’s forum with a vast amount of information about vintage cast iron cookware. Griswold & Cast Iron Cookware Association Dues: $25 individual, $30 family, $10 student 2018 convention: April 19-22 in Baton Rouge, LA gcica.org Wagner & Griswold Society Dues: $25 individual, $35 family (plus $5 initiation fee first year only) 2017 convention: September 7-10 in Reading, PA wag-society.org

ThE CoVeTeD GrIsWoLd



SpIdEr” SkIlLeT

In the early 1900s, Griswold made a #8 skillet with a unique logo—a spider spinning its web. According to a 1904 company bulletin, the skillet was made to honor the Scottish legend of Robert the Bruce from the 14th century. Six times Bruce had led his troops into battle against the English, and six times they had been defeated. His army scattered, Bruce was hiding in a cave when he observed a spider trying to swing from one side of the cave to another. It tried and

failed six times, but on the seventh attempt, the spider succeeded. Encouraged by the spider’s persistence, Bruce gathered his troops and went forth to defeat the English, gaining independence for Scotland. The Griswold bulletin concluded, “As the little spider brought success to Robert Bruce, so cooking utensils bearing this trade mark bring success to all who use them.” Today the spider skillet, made only in #8 size, is so rare that it regularly commands $4,000 at auction.

Above, left: Peggy Creach of Missouri. Center: Kay and Jeff Slach of Martelle, Iowa, with their #2 skillet. Right: Linda Lamb and Mary Theisen—the “Iron Maidens.” Below: The famous Griswold logo. known Griswold patterns. It pays to educate yourself about cast iron. Dave Lange is a native of Erie, Pennsylvania, the city where Griswold was manufactured; both his father and his uncle worked at the company’s foundry before it closed. But Dave learned how to be a serious collector of Griswold from Chuck Wafford, the co-author of the bibles of cast-iron collecting, The Book of Griswold & Wagner and The Book of Wagner & Griswold. (Cast-iron fans just call them “The Blue Book” and “The Red Book,” respectively.) “Chuck gave me a very good education about cast iron,” Dave says. “We talked many hours on the phone.” If Dave bought two skillets, he would keep one and sell the other one to Chuck to pay for the first one. “Before I knew it, I wasn’t selling any more; I was just keeping.” Compared to other collectors, Mary Theisen is relatively new to cast-iron collecting. She purchased her first piece in 2010 when she fell in love with a Griswold gem pan (a type of muffin pan). Mary immediately jumped into the collecting world in a big way. (For her second purchase, Mary scored 60 pieces of iron at an auction.) Today she is a cast-iron blogger at vintagecast-iron.com and the founder of an e-commerce business that buys and sells vintage castiron cookware.

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ThE BeAuTy Of GrIsWoLd. NoBoDy KnOwS HoW MuCh “IsThAtOuT'S ThErE, HiDdEn AwAy In KiTcHeN CaBiNeTs AnD BaRnS. AnYbOdY CaN FiNd AnYtHiNg.“ —JON HAUSSLER

Mary considers Griswold cookware to be “the crown jewel of the cast-iron world.” From her days buying and selling cast iron, she explains, “Griswold is the most coveted pan by consumers; it is the brand that most people want.” She attributes this to an indefinable quality. “I read somewhere that having a vintage Griswold skillet in your kitchen ‘ups your cool factor’, and I think that’s true” she says. “It’s my personal favorite because I like the fine casting,” Mary adds. That, along with its thinner walls and its satiny finish, is one of the hallmarks of a Griswold pan. “They are just beautiful pans.” What caused the Griswold foundry to close? Students of castiron history point to several causes, among them labor issues and changing tastes in cookware. Ely Griswold, the last member of the Griswold family to serve as CEO, sold the company to a syndicate of New York investors when he retired in 1946. In 1957, the Griswold name and trademarks were sold to McGraw Edison, which then sold them to Griswold’s competitor, the Wagner Manufacturing Company,

and production was moved to Sidney, Ohio. (The pieces marked “Griswold” that were made by Wagner are not considered as collectible as those made in Pennsylvania.) But Dave Lange sees another reason for Griswold’s downfall. “The quality of Griswold cast-iron cookware was so good, if your grandmother bought a skillet 100 years ago, she could pass it on to your mother and then on to you,” he points out. “You could pass it on to your daughter, and she to her daughter, and you’d never need to buy another one. How could the company possibly stay in business when you could buy a skillet for $4 and pass it on to five generations of your family?” Dave asks. Does someone who is new to collecting Griswold have any hope of unearthing the type of pans collectors found 25 or 30 years ago? “Absolutely,” says Jon Haussler. “That’s the beauty of Griswold. Nobody knows how much is out there, hidden away in kitchen cabinets and barns. Anybody can find anything.”

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Cookbook Collection

BAKING AT ITS BEST BY

I

MARY-KATE TUCTO / RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED , WITH PERMISSION , FROM CAST-IRON BAKING BY BROOKE BELL (83 PRESS, 2017)

t’s no secret that cast-iron skillets are superstars on the stovetop, but many people don’t realize the potential of these pans in the oven. Cornbread only scratches the surface of this Southern kitchen staple’s baking prowess. From biscuits and scones to cakes and breads, cast-iron skillets and Dutch ovens are the perfect vessels to achieve crisp-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside baked goods. That’s why Brooke Bell, Director of Editorial Operations at Hoffman Media and home baker extraordinaire, penned Cast-Iron Baking: Scratch Recipes for Your Favorite Skillet—to show the world what their heirloom cookware can really do. Whether you bake to satisfy your sweet or savory cravings, this book has you covered. Featuring recipes for every season, this collection will keep your oven—and your skillet—busy all year long.

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WHAT MAKES THIS HEIRLOOM COOKWARE GREAT FOR BAKING? Cast iron provides even heat distribution, which makes your pie crusts crispy on the bottom and the edges of your cakes crunchy. A bonus is that it easily goes from oven to table for serving. WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE THING TO BAKE IN CAST IRON? Cornbread is always at the top of my list because it’s essential to the Southern table. A vegetable plate doesn’t exist without cornbread. But every season’s ripest fruit deserves the spotlight in a crumble or cobbler.

WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST BAKING MEMORY? My story is like that of so many others—watching and learning from my grandparents. I spent summers at their house in north Alabama, and baking was a part of their every day. My grandmother made elaborate cakes for holidays and birthdays, and she must’ve owned every specialty cake pan there was— not to mention cabinets full of piping bags and tips and cookie cutters. My grandfather was the cornbread baker. Each day he came in from tending his garden to prepare it for the proper lunch they always shared around the kitchen table. Leftover cornbread was saved for dinner, and the last wedge was always enjoyed crumbled in a glass of milk before bed. WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR CAST-IRON BAKING? When we bake, we share love. Our world needs more love and comfort, and I want everyone to have humble recipes they can feel confident preparing in their beloved skillets. HOW HAS GROWING UP IN THE SOUTH INFLUENCED YOUR BAKING? Baking is so much a part of what we do in the South. It’s second nature to us Southerners. We bake to celebrate, we bake to comfort, and we most certainly bake to welcome the seasons. I arranged this cookbook by seasons so it’s easy to bake your way through what’s available at farmers’ markets and roadside produce stands no matter the time of year. WHY DO YOU THINK CAST IRON HAS SOARED IN POPULARITY IN RECENT YEARS? Chefs and cooks around the world have long trusted cast iron to be the workhorse of their kitchens. But I do think there is a new generation of cooks discovering—and inheriting—cast iron. It provides a connection to the past that people cherish.

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DO YOU HAVE ANY TIPS FOR BAKING WITH CAST IRON? First, don’t let baking in cast iron intimidate you. Your skillets are capable of baking so much more than just cornbread. Second, you should have a designated baking skillet. You don’t want your strawberry cake to have the essence of fried chicken or caramelized onions. BOTH CAST IRON AND BAKING FEEL NOSTALGIC TO MANY PEOPLE. HOW DOES THAT TRANSLATE IN CAST-IRON BAKING? Many of the recipes and flavor profiles included in this cookbook remind me of my childhood, but the true nostalgia for me comes when I use the family skillets that (finally!) call my kitchen home. After years of begging my mother to let me care for the chicken fryer that had been in our family for decades, she finally relinquished it. In return, I’ve made sure to keep her well-stocked with any size and shape of new Lodge skillet she wants. WHAT’S YOUR MUST-MAKE RECIPE FROM THIS BOOK? Of course, I can’t name just one. But as crisp fall air arrives, I’ll definitely be making the Pineapple-Curry Upside-Down Cake. This classic has always been one of my favorite desserts, but the curry powder and candied ginger in the recipe take it to a whole new place for me. And when I get my hands on the season’s first heirloom apples, I’ll make the Easy AppleButtermilk Cake. It only calls for a handful of ingredients, most of which I’ll already have on hand. THE BOOK FEATURES BOTH SWEET AND SAVORY RECIPES. WHICH DO YOU CRAVE MOST? My fork never turns down a dessert, but I am a savory girl, which is why I included lots of cornbread recipes, a tomato pie that will change the way you summer, a Caramelized Onion and Pear Galette that can be a meal all by itself, and plenty of yeast rolls and biscuits.

PECAN GOAT CHEESE DUTCH BABY Makes 3 to 4 servings Gather the family around before you pull this beauty out of the oven; you’ll want to share it in all of its puffed glory.

3

large eggs, room temperature cup all-purpose flour cup whole milk, room temperature cup goat cheese 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened ½ cup pecan halves, toasted Garnish: cane syrup, crumbled goat cheese

½ ½ ¼

FIRST Preheat oven to 425°. Place a 10-inch cast-iron skillet in oven to preheat. NEXT In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, flour, milk, goat cheese, sugar, vanilla, salt, and cinnamon until well combined. NEXT Carefully remove hot skillet from oven. Add butter to skillet; let melt. Pour batter over hot butter in skillet. LAST Bake until puffed and golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Top with pecans. Garnish with cane syrup and goat cheese, if desired. Serve immediately.

PINEAPPLE-CURRY UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE Makes 1 (10-inch) cake Always one of my favorite desserts—for its caramelized pineapple top and perfectly crumbly cake—this pineapple upside-down cake gets amped up with madras curry powder and ground ginger.

1

¾ ⅓ ½ ½ 1 2 2 2

½ ½

(3-ounce) package candied ginger, finely chopped cup unsalted butter, divided cup honey, divided teaspoon madras curry fresh pineapple, cored and sliced cup sugar large eggs cups all-purpose flour teaspoons baking powder cup whole milk teaspoon vanilla extract

FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. NEXT In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, cook ginger, ½ cup butter, and 3 tablespoons honey over medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Transfer mixture to a large bowl, reserving 2 tablespoons mixture in skillet. NEXT Add curry, remaining 2⅓ tablespoons honey, and remaining ¼ cup butter to skillet; cook until bubbly. Remove from heat; place pineapple in a fan around skillet. NEXT To ginger mixture, add sugar, and beat with a mixer at medium speed until fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.

NEXT In a medium bowl, whisk together flour and baking powder. Reduce mixer speed to low. Gradually add flour mixture to ginger mixture alternately with milk, beginning and ending with flour mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. Stir in vanilla. Spoon over pineapple, using a spatula to smooth batter to edges of skillet. LAST Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 28 to 30 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Invert cake onto a serving plate. Drizzle with remaining syrup from pan, and serve warm.

DUTCH OVEN BREAD Makes 1 (2-pound) loaves Follow this recipe for a classic loaf, or try one of the simple variations listed below.

4½ cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon active dry yeast 2¼ cups lukewarm water 1⁄3 cup plain yellow cornmeal, divided

NEXT On a lightly floured surface, pat dough into a circular shape. Fold four edges in toward center; turn dough smooth side up. Sprinkle with flour, and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise at room temperature for 2 hours. NEXT Place a 4- to 6-quart cast-iron Dutch oven in cold oven. Preheat oven to 500°. Sprinkle top of dough generously

with cornmeal. Using a large spatula, turn dough over; sprinkle with remaining cornmeal. LAST Place dough in preheated Dutch oven. (Use a wooden spoon to gently push dough into bottom of pan, if necessary.) Cover and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake 15 to 20 minutes more. Let cool completely on a wire rack.

FIRST In a large bowl, stir together flour, salt, and yeast. Add 2¼ cups lukewarm water, and stir with hands until a sticky dough forms. Cover bowl with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel; let rise at room temperature overnight or up to 24 hours.

FOR MULTI-GRAIN TOPPED BREAD: Prepare dough, and let rise as directed. Stir together 3 tablespoons raw sunflower seeds, 1 tablespoon rolled oats, 1 tablespoon dried minced onion, 1 tablespoon wheat bran, 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt, 1 teaspoon poppy seeds, 1 teaspoon sesame seeds, and 1 teaspoon flax seed. Sprinkle over bread dough (instead of cornmeal) before baking.

FOR CRANBERRY-PECAN BREAD: In the first step, stir together 3 cups all-purpose flour, 11⁄2 cups wholewheat flour, salt, and yeast. Stir in 1 cup dried cranberries, 1 cup chopped pecans, and 11⁄2 teaspoons ground cinnamon; continue as directed.

FOR ROSEMARY-CHEESE BREAD: In the first step, stir 1 cup grated Gruyère cheese, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary, and 1 teaspoon ground black pepper into flour mixture. Continue as directed. After first 30 minutes of baking, sprinkle bread with 1⁄4 cup grated Gruyère.

september/october 2017

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Cast-Iron Cupboard

LOAF PAN

QUICK BREADS Fall flavors shine in these stir-together recipes

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

CAROLINE SMITH /

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY

NANCY HUGHES

SPICED CARROT BREAD WITH GOLDEN RAISINS Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf A nutty, fruity mix of walnuts and raisins brings out the sweetness of this carrot bread.

1¾ cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg ¼ teaspoon ground ginger 1 cup shredded carrot ¾ cup granulated sugar ½ cup golden raisins ½ cup chopped walnuts ½ cup whole milk 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1 large egg 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ cup honey 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 9x5-inch cast-iron loaf pan with baking spray with flour. NEXT In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, baking powder, nutmeg, and ginger. In another medium bowl, combine carrot, granulated sugar, raisins, walnuts, milk, melted butter, egg, and vanilla. Pour carrot mixture over flour mixture, and fold just until combined. Spoon batter into prepared pan. NEXT Bake until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack. LAST In a small bowl, stir together honey and confectioners’ sugar. Drizzle over cooled loaf.

Kitchen Tip: Don’t have a cast-iron loaf pan? No problem. These recipes can be made in a regular loaf pan using the same bake temperature and time.

september/october 2017

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cream of tartar, and beat until stiff peaks form. Fold egg whites into batter in 3 additions. Stir in diced apple and remaining ½ cup cranberries. Spoon batter over apple slices in pan. LAST Bake until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Let cool in pan for 15 minutes. Invert cake onto a wire rack, and let cool completely.

SWIRLED CHOCOLATE-CHAI STREUSEL BREAD Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf This richly spiced chocolate swirl makes this streusel bread irresistible.

2

cups all-purpose flour cup sugar teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 large egg ¾ cup whole buttermilk ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted 1 tablespoon orange zest 3 tablespoons orange juice 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Chocolate Chai Swirl (recipe follows) Cocoa Streusel Topping (recipe follows)

½ 1½

APPLE-CRANBERRY UPSIDE-DOWN QUICK BREAD Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf Apples and cranberries bring a tart sweetness to this rich cornmeal cake.

½ ⅓ 2 1 1 2

¾ 1¼ ¼ 2

¼ ½ ¼

cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened and divided cup firmly packed light brown sugar small Gala apples, peeled cup frozen cranberries, divided cup granulated sugar large eggs, separated teaspoon vanilla extract cups all-purpose flour cup white stone-ground cornmeal teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt cup whole buttermilk teaspoon cream of tartar

FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. Grease a 9x5-inch cast-iron loaf pan with

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southern cast iron

2 tablespoons butter. Place pan in oven until butter is melted. Sprinkle brown sugar over melted butter. NEXT Cut 1 apple into 12 (½-inch-thick) slices. Dice remaining apple into ½-inch pieces; set aside. Arrange apple slices over brown sugar in pan, and sprinkle with ½ cup cranberries. Set aside. NEXT In a large bowl, beat granulated sugar and remaining ½ cup butter with a mixer at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in vanilla. NEXT In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. With mixer on low speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with buttermilk, beginning and ending with flour mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. NEXT In another medium bowl, using clean beaters, beat egg whites with a mixer at high speed until foamy. Add

FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 9x5inch cast-iron loaf pan with baking spray with flour. NEXT In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. In another medium bowl, whisk together egg, buttermilk, melted butter, orange zest and juice, and vanilla. Pour egg mixture over flour mixture, and fold just until combined. Dollop half of batter into prepared pan. Sprinkle Chocolate Chai Swirl over batter. Spoon remaining batter on top. Sprinkle with Cocoa Streusel Topping. LAST Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Let cool in pan for 15 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack.

CHOCOLATE CHAI SWIRL Makes about ½ cup

¼ ¼ 2 1

½ ½ ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼

cup granulated sugar cup chopped semisweet chocolate tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground cloves teaspoon ground black pepper teaspoon ground cardamom teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg

FIRST In a small bowl, whisk together all ingredients until combined.

COCOA STREUSEL TOPPING Makes about 1 cup

¼ ¼ ¼ 2 2

½ ¼ 2

cup all-purpose flour cup chopped pecans cup old-fashioned oats tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar tablespoons granulated sugar teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder teaspoon ground cinnamon tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed

FIRST In a small bowl, combine flour, pecans, oats, sugars, cocoa, and cinnamon. Using a pastry blender, cut in butter until mixture is crumbly. Cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

butter mixture over flour mixture, and fold until flour is almost incorporated. Stir in diced pear. Spoon batter over pears in prepared pan. LAST Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool in pan for 15 minutes. Invert onto a wire rack, and let cool completely. Drizzle with reserved molasses sauce, if desired.

CASHEW BANANA BREAD Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf A modern take on a classic, this bread is as unique as it is beautiful with banana slices baked right in the top.

¾ ¾ ½ ¼

PEAR GINGER UPSIDE-DOWN QUICK BREAD Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf This showstopping loaf is a delightful fall combination of pears and fresh ginger.

2 2

⅔ 1½

⅓ ⅓ 2 2 1

½ ½ ¼ ¼ ¾ 1 2

105

medium Bartlett pears, peeled tablespoons molasses cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided tablespoons water cup plus 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided cup firmly packed light brown sugar cups all-purpose flour teaspoons baking powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon salt teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground cloves cup whole buttermilk large egg tablespoons grated fresh ginger

southern cast iron

FIRST Cut 4 (¼-inch-thick) slices from each pear. Dice remaining pear; set aside. NEXT In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, cook molasses, 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, 1½ tablespoons water, and 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat until slightly thickened. Add pear slices; cook for 1 minute per side. Remove pears; continue cooking molasses mixture until thickened, about 2 minutes more. Set aside. NEXT Preheat oven to 350°. Grease a 9x5-inch cast-iron loaf pan with 2 tablespoons butter. Place pan in oven until butter is melted, about 1 minute. Sprinkle brown sugar over melted butter. Line bottom and sides of pan with cooked pear slices. NEXT In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, ground ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and remaining ⅔ cup granulated sugar. NEXT In another medium bowl, microwave remaining ⅓ cup butter until melted, about 30 seconds. Whisk in buttermilk, egg, and grated ginger. Pour

cup sugar cup cashew butter cup sour cream cup unsalted butter, melted 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup mashed ripe banana (about 3 small bananas) 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon salt 1 cup chopped cashews 1 banana, sliced lengthwise 1 tablespoon honey Cashew butter, to serve FIRST Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 9x5inch cast-iron loaf pan with baking spray with flour. NEXT In a large bowl, combine sugar, cashew butter, sour cream, melted butter, eggs, and vanilla. Stir in mashed banana. NEXT In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add flour mixture to banana mixture, stirring just until moistened. Stir in cashews. Spoon batter into prepared pan. Top with banana slices. LAST Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 2 hours. Brush banana slices with honey. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack. Serve with cashew butter.

The Perfect...

SKILLET-ROASTED

CHICKEN

Treat your family to a simple and hearty supper

THE PERFECT ROAST CHICKEN Makes 4 servings There’s nothing simpler or more delicious than a roast chicken. Follow this comfort-inducing recipe for a perfectly tender, golden-brown bird.

1 3 1

tablespoon lemon zest teaspoons kosher salt, divided (5-pound) whole chicken, giblets removed ½ lemon 1 (16-ounce) package carrots, peeled and cut into 5-inch pieces 1 large sweet onion, cut into wedges 1 head garlic, halved 4 sprigs fresh thyme 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 2 cups chicken broth ½ teaspoon ground black pepper Garnish: fresh thyme sprigs

FIRST In a small bowl, combine zest and 2 teaspoons salt. Pat chicken dry with paper towels. Gently loosen skin from chicken, keeping skin intact. Rub salt mixture under skin and all over chicken. Place lemon half inside chicken cavity. Tie legs with kitchen twine. Refrigerate overnight. NEXT Preheat oven to 425°. Let chicken stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. NEXT Place carrots, onion, garlic, and thyme in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet. Place chicken on top of vegetables. Rub chicken with oil, and sprinkle with remaining 1 teaspoon salt. NEXT Bake until a meat thermometer inserted in thickest portion registers 165°, about 1 hour and 25 minutes, covering with foil to prevent excess browning, if necessary. Let stand for 10 minutes. LAST Remove chicken, carrots, and garlic from skillet; whisk in flour. Pour in broth, and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until thickened. Stir in pepper. Serve gravy with chicken. Garnish with thyme, if desired.

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY

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southern cast iron

VANESSA ROCCHIO

Chicken Tips Stuffing the chicken with aromatics such as citrus, garlic, or herbs infuses the meat with flavor.

Don’t be afraid to season the chicken generously. Salt and pepper not only makes the chicken taste good; they help render the fat, yielding a crispy, crackly crust. Sprinkle salt and pepper inside and outside the chicken for the best flavor.

Let the chicken stand at least 30 minutes at room temperature before roasting. This helps the chicken cook more evenly.

september/october 2017

108

Skillet Stories

RAISED ON

CAST IRON Nashville chef Tandy Wilson on starting new traditions

W

hen I was younger, my mom and grandmother taught me to make cornbread in a cast-iron skillet,” says Tandy Wilson, chef of City House in Nashville, Tennessee. “The skillet was always just a part of it—part of the method.” Growing up with a family of cast-iron enthusiasts and a cupboard packed with heirloom skillets, it’s no surprise that he carries that legacy into his professional career. “There was never a recipe they went by,” he says. “Down the road, what I realized I’d learned was a method. I learned to heat up the skillet in the oven with the grease. Then pour some of the hot grease back into the batter, and listen for the sizzle when you add the batter to the pan. And that, to me, is cuisine. Everyone’s recipe is going to be a little different, but the method is what ties them together. “The more I learned about cooking and the more I started to love cooking, I realized that you could just use them for everything,” he says. “They are workhorses in the kitchen here at City House, and at my house.” To Tandy, these pans represent more than just a vessel for perfectly golden cornbread or expertly roasted chicken. They are a legacy. He received his first pan in college while working in restaurants—an 8-inch skillet that was “just wrecked, rusted, and destroyed.” Guided by coworkers, he revived it and still has it today—along with a few family pieces. “I think my dad realized that if I can cook, I can be responsible with these pans,” Tandy says. “And I fi nally got one from the family at that point. It was my grandmother’s and has been well loved. It just has this shine on it. It’s a cornbread-only skillet for me.” Despite his family’s penchant for old-school cast iron, Tandy doesn’t find it necessary to wait for a pan to be handed down for it to become special. “The last thing you want to do is to be a young adult and get this beautiful, heirloom castiron pan handed down to you, and screw it up because you don’t know what you’re doing,” Tandy explains. His solution? Start ’em young. On several occasions, this award-winning

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southern cast iron

ThInK My DaD ReAlIzEd “IThAt If I CaN CoOk, I CaN Be



ReSpOnSiBlE WiTh ThEsE PaNs.

—TANDY WILSON

chef has been known to arrive at his friends’ children’s birthday parties—as early as 1 year old—with a 10-inch castiron skillet in hand. “I got this miniature skillet in the mail once, and thought, ‘Oh, this would be a cool present,’” he remembers. “But then I just imagined this child playing with it and smashing a finger. But they can’t do that with a 10-inch (skillet).” While the child won’t use such a skillet for years, the parents certainly can. “The idea is that the parents have 10 or 12 years to get this thing seasoned in before the youngster is cooking,” Tandy laughs. “Then by the time they’re old enough to use it, the pan has a nice seasoning on it. It’s a better starting point for a young person, and they can take it from there.” And dozens—perhaps hundreds—of skillets of cornbread, bacon, and biscuits later, that pan will be handed down, and so begins the life of a new heirloom.

New Book!

cast-iron baking s c r atc h r e c i p e s f o r your favorite skillet

From perfectly crisp pies and tarts to jam-filled coffee cakes and fluffy dinner rolls, the even heat distribution of castiron skillets makes them ideal for baking. This collection of recipes features timehonored classics plus tips for keeping your skillets (new and heirloom) wellseasoned and always at the ready.

Pre-Order Your Copy today! Available September 1 st

3

Easy Ways to Order Enter or mention discount code SCICIB17C

Hoffman Media Store P.O. Box 6302 • Harlan, IA 51593

800-361-8059 Allow 2–4 weeks for delivery.

HOFFMANMEDIASTORE.COM/CASTIRONBAKING

RECIPES & RESOURCES Mains

Bacon-Jalapeño Meatloaf 31 BuƩernut Squash Mac and Cheese 74 BuƩernut Squash Soup 70 Chicken Tetrazzini 30 Chorizo and Kale Stuīed Spagheƫ Squash 70 Creamy Chicken and Shells with Baby Broccoli 27 Garlic Chicken with Red Potatoes 26 Jamaican Jerk Chili 26 Mexican Chicken Pot Pies 30 Roasted Chicken with Garam Masala Spices 11 Spice-Rubbed Pork Shoulder 27 Steak and Sweet Potato Pie 31 The Perfect Roast Chicken 107

Breads & Doughs

Apple-Cranberry Upside-Down Quick Bread 103 BuƩermilk Cornbread 11 BuƩermilk Parker House Skillet Rolls 60 Cashew Banana Bread 105 Cheddar-Apple Drop Biscuits 14 Cheddar-Bacon Drop Biscuits 14 Cheesy Herb Rolls 66 Cranberry-Pecan Bread 100 Dutch Oven Bread 100 Everything Rolls 61 Manchego Biscuits with Coriander 61

MulƟ-Grain Topped Bread 100 Pear Ginger Upside-Down Quick Bread 105 Pecan & Cream Corn Cornbread 60 Rosemary-Cheese Bread 100 Rosemary-Potato Dutch Oven Bread 64 Spiced Carrot Bread with Golden Raisins 102 Spicy Sweet Potato Dutch Oven Bread 66 Sweet Potato Angel Biscuits 64 Sweet Potato Streusel Scones 22 Swirled Chocolate-Chai Streusel Bread 103

Sides & Snacks

BuƩernut Squash Latkes 74 Curry-Lime Popcorn 54 Dutch Oven Popcorn 53 Herb-Parmesan Popcorn 53 Rice with BuƩernut Squash and Brussels Sprouts 71 Roasted Acorn Squash Halves with Honeyed Goat Cheese 71 Salted Caramel Pecan Popcorn 56 S’mores Popcorn 55

Bourbon-BuƩer Cake 40 Bourbon-Chocolate Bread Pudding 42 Bourbon-Chocolate Pecan Pie Bars 37 Bourbon-Pecan Upside-Down Cake 42 BuƩerscotch Chess Pie 86 Caramel Apple Pie 78 Chocolate-Caramel Triple Nut Tart 82 Harvest Crisp with Maple-Bourbon Cream 36 Oatmeal Rum Raisin Pie 85 Pear, Cranberry, and Ginger Pies 79 Pineapple-Curry Upside-Down Cake 99 S’mores Cheesecake Pie 81 Spiced-Honey Pumpkin Crostata 80

Breakfast

Apple Cider Doughnuts 18 Apple-Pecan Dutch Baby 18 Bourbon-Pumpkin Cinnamon Rolls 43 BuƩermilk-Bacon Pancakes 19 Honey and Spice Granola 19 Pecan Goat Cheese Dutch Baby 98 Pumpkin Pancakes with BuƩer Pecan Syrup 22

Toppings, Spreads, Sauces, & Fillings

Desserts

Apple-Bourbon Streusel Pie 40 Apple-Pecan Crostata 84 Bourbon-Bacon Peanut BriƩle 37

54

Bourbon Caramel Sauce 40 Cheese and Herb Filling 65 Chocolate Chai Swirl 104 Cocoa Streusel Topping 104 Garam Masala 11 Green Onion Spread 62 Lemon-Cilantro BuƩer 61 Maple-Bourbon Cream 36 Pecan Pie Filling 37 Simple Syrup 43

Drinks

Charred Old Fashioned 43

Resources SPOTTED IN Page 8: Photos courtesy Claire Pace (Food 101); FIG; Link Restaurant Group (Cochon Restaurant); and Chef Hal M. Holden-Bache (Lockeland Table) CHEF’S TABLE Pages 9 & 11: Photography courtesy GLINTStudios Page 10: Photography courtesy GLINTStudios (restaurant photography) and 21c Museum Hotels (roast chicken image) Page 12: Photo courtesy 21c Museum Hotels SKILLET STORIES Page 109: Photography courtesy Andrea Behrends

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NEW SPECIAL ISSUE FROM

Southern

®

CAST IRON

This special issue is packed with recipes that make the most of the season's bounty—classic sides like fried okra, easy fruit-filled cobblers, skillet-grilled suppers, and so much more.

ORDER TODAY! HOFFMANMEDIASTORE.COM/CASTIRONCLASSICS

800-361-8059

CAST-IRON

USE & CARE If you take the time to properly care for your beloved cast-iron cookware, it will reward you and your family with generations of loyal service. Follow these tips to treat your heirlooms with tender, loving care.

KEEP THEM CLEAN

Be sure to clean your pans as soon as they’re cool enough to handle. Scrub gently with a stiff-bristle brush or a non-scratch scouring pad. Water leads to rust, so avoid submersing your cast-iron cookware. As to whether or not to use soap—that’s up to you. We avoid it when possible in order to protect the precious seasoned surface.

KEEP THEM DRY

After rinsing, it’s crucial to dry your cookware completely. Wipe dry with a clean kitchen towel, then apply a very thin coat of vegetable oil, rubbing it into the surface. Heat on the stovetop over medium-low heat or in the oven at 300° until dry, about 10 minutes. Let cool; wipe surface with a clean kitchen towel, and heat for 5 more minutes.

RESPECT YOUR CAST IRON Taking care of your cookware means understanding its likes and dislikes.

— LIKES —

• Cooking with fats • Gentle cleaning • Clean, dry cupboards

— DISLIKES — • Water • Acidic foods • Harsh abrasives
Southern Cast Iron Autumn 2017

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