Taste of the South 201603-04

SAVE OFFLINE

authentically southern, always delicious

HAM AND ASP ARAGUS CASSEROLE page 70

THE FOO

l e v a tr ISSUE LOCAL FAVORITES

PLACES to EAT + DISHES to

savor!

The “secret” State Pie of ARKANSAS page 41

MARCH/APRIL 2016 vol 13, issue 2 www.tasteofthesouthmagazine.com $4.99 US

DISPLAY UNTIL APRIL 19, 2016

contents MARCH/APRIL ‘16

on the cover Possum Pie (recipe on page 41) PHOTOGRAPHY BY

MAC JAMIESON

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING

VANESSA ROCCHIO PHOTO STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES BY

volume 13, issue 2

TENNESSEE STACK CAKE

37

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

4

contents

101 special fixins SPRING GREENS 24 Fresh Southern suppers and sides STATE-BY-STATE DEVILED EGGS 31 Nine regionally inspired recipes OH-SO-SOUTHERN DESSERTS 35 Classic cakes, pies, and cobblers 35 ICONIC SOUTHERN RESTAURANTS 45 Our favorites, from diners to wne dining RETURN TO SPLENDOR 57 The grand resurgence of hotel dining WELCOME-HOME CASSEROLES 63 Easy seasonal comfort food TASTE OF TRADITION 67 Five ways with Easter ham SOUTH’S BEST SODA FOUNTAINS 84 Serving up nostalgia by the scoop

last bites

65

HEALTHIER HELPINGS 99 Oven-fried catwsh and carrot cake COOKBOOK SHELF 105 Nashville Eats by Jennifer Justus RECIPE INDEX 111 DISHING WITH 113 Southern food blogger Stacey Little tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

6

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS BROOKE MICHAEL BELL EDITOR JOSH MILLER CREATIVE DIRECTOR / PHOTOGRAPHY MAC JAMIESON GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR DEANNA RIPPY GARDNER ART DIRECTOR CAILYN HAYNES FOOD EDITOR ANNA THEOKTISTO ASSISTANT EDITOR GINNY HEARD RECIPE EDITOR FRAN JENSEN EDITORIAL ASSISTANT ALICE DETERS COPY EDITOR AVERY HURT STYLISTS MARY BETH JONES , BETH K . SEELEY SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHERS JOHN O ’ HAGAN , MARCY BLACK SIMPSON PHOTOGRAPHERS JIM BATHIE , WILLIAM DICKEY , STEPHANIE WELBOURNE ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER CAROLINE SMITH FOOD STYLIST / RECIPE DEVELOPERS MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON, MELISSA GRAY, KATHLEEN KANEN, JANET LAMBERT, VANESSA ROCCHIO , LOREN WOOD TEST KITCHEN ASSISTANT ANITA SIMPSON SPAIN SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST DELISA MCDANIEL DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST CLARK DENSMORE

ADVERTISING REGIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTORS NEAL DIPENTINO , KATIE LOPER HAGAN, PAGE STABLER, SHEILA WARDY MARKETING DIRECTOR KATIE GUASCO PRODUCTION ASSISTANT / GRAPHIC DESIGNER RACHEL COLLINS

DIGITAL MEDIA MULTIMEDIA DIRECTOR BART CLAYTON MARKETING DIRECTOR TRICIA WAGNER WILLIAMS VIDEOGRAPHER

TEXAS SHEET CAKE

AARON SPIGNER

DIGITAL GRAPHIC DESIGNER ALANA HOGG

page 43

ADMINISTRATIVE HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR JUDY BROWN LAZENBY IT DIRECTOR MATTHEW SCOTT HOLT DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER JANICE RITTER

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD / CEO PHYLLIS HOFFMAN DEPIANO PRESIDENT / COO ERIC W . HOFFMAN PRESIDENT / CCO BRIAN HART HOFFMAN EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT/CFO MARY P . CUMMINGS EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT/OPERATIONS & MANUFACTURING GREG BAUGH VICE PRESIDENT / DIGITAL MEDIA JON ADAMSON VICE PRESIDENT / EDITORIAL CINDY SMITH COOPER VICE PRESIDENT / ADMINISTRATION LYNN LEE TERRY

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING SALES OFFICES 1900 INTERNATIONAL PARK DRIVE, SUITE 50 BIRMINGHAM, AL 35243 PHONE: 205.995.8860 FAX: 205.995.8428, 205.991.0071 WEB: TASTEOFTHESOUTHMAGAZINE.COM SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES

PHONE: 877.817.4410 E-MAIL: [email protected]

volume 13, issue 2

Taste of the South ISSN 1559-2138 is published bimonthly (except November and December) by Hoffman Media, LLC, 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243. The cover and contents of Taste of the South are fully protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission. All rights reserved in all countries. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: For the United States, $22.98 per year, 7 issues; add $10 for postage in Canada; add $20 elsewhere. Single issue $4.99 available at newsstands and bookstores. Periodicals postage paid at Birmingham, Alabama, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO Taste of the South, P.O. Box 6201 Harlan, IA, 51593. NOTE: Taste of the South assumes no responsibility for unsolicited photographs and manuscripts; submissions cannot be returned without a selfaddressed stamped envelope. ©

2016 Hoffman Media, LLC. Printed in the USA.

//////// FROM THE EDITOR

AS MY FAVORITE SONGWRITER, EMILY SALIERS, SAYS, “There’s something about the Southland in the springtime.” From the far reaches of Texas to the bayous of Cajun country, over the rolling hills of the Mountain South, and all the way out to the coastal plains of Florida and the Lowcountry, our homeland wakes from its winter slumber, transforming into a vibrant tapestry of life, color, and flavor, just begging to be explored. For our first Foodie Travel Issue, we’ve picked out a tasty itinerary for you—35 iconic restaurants to add to your bucket list (page 45), culinary trails to explore (page 13), opulent hotels that are bringing back the lost art of hotel dining (page 57), and the South’s best soda fountains that are serving up nostalgia by the scoopful (page 84). But don’t worry—we’ve got plenty of classic recipes to keep your plate full. We’ve drawn inspiration from across the South for our “State-by-State Deviled Eggs” (page 31) and our “Oh-So-Southern Desserts” (page 35). Hosting your family for Easter? Look no further than “Five Ways with Ham” (page 67) to help you prepare a meal your family will remember for years to come. Whether you’re ready to get on the road or get in the kitchen, we hope our biggest issue yet inspires you to enjoy all that springtime in the South has to ofer.

Follow US FOR A DAILY SERVING Josh Miller

OF RECIPES, KITCHEN TIPS, & MORE

You deserve cake! We’ve packed our fifth anniversary edition of Southern Cakes with 100 pages full of classic Southern recipes, including the StrawberryButtermilk Cake on the cover—one of my all-time favorites! To get your copy, call 800-361-8059 or visit hoffmanmediastore.com.

///// SOUTHERN SIDEBOARD

Sur ry Sonker Tra

il

culinary Stitched together by food fanatics and food historians, culinary trails focus on a particular regional treat, showcasing some of the best locations to sample them. Here are a few to keep in mind on your next vacation.

Photo courtesy

s l i a r

SURRY SONKER TRAIL Unless you hail from Surry County, North Carolina, you might never have heard of sonker. Similar to a cobbler, the sonker is believed to have come about when the people of Surry County needed to stretch their fruit in lean times. Introduce your taste buds to something new, and follow the Surry Sonker Trail, which features seven eateries, including two bakeries, a winery, coffee shop, historic general store, barbecue restaurant, and an upscale casual steakhouse. sonkertrail.org

KENTUCKY BOURBON TRAIL

Photo courtes

ck

rail

The Kentucky Bourbon Trail gives visitors a rsthand look at the art and science of crafting bourbon, bringing to life the rich history and tradition behind Kentucky’s signature spirit. Nine distilleries anchor the trail, including Woodford Reserve, Four Roses, and Maker’s Mark; each stop includes a distillery tour and bourbon tasting. kybourbontrail.com

+ P E S N R P IO PR 13

S I OV

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

april 2016

MISSISSIPPI TAMALE TRAIL When most people think of the Mississippi Delta, they instantly think of the blues. But the region is also known as a hotbed for a somewhat unlikely food: hot tamales. While tamales are typically a Latin American delicacy, they have become engrained in the culture of this region. The Southern Foodways Alliance put together a trail that stretches from Tunica to Vicksburg in an effort to document the history, tradition, and culture of hot tamales in the Mississippi Delta. southernfoodways.org

Honey Citrus Marmalade North Carolina-based Copper Pot & Wooden Spoon specializes in handcrafted jams and preserves, working with small local farms to support sustainable agriculture. We love their Honey Citrus Marmalade—fresh ruby red grapefruit and naval oranges blend ully with North Carolina honey to create beautifu this delightfully tangy treat. $8.50; squareup.com/market/copper-pot-andwooden-spoon

Road rip

SIDE TRIPS

SNACKS

off the beaten path

We asked our Facebook friends – what’s your favorite r ad trip tr snack? road

Bardstown, Kentucky

People might come to Bardstown for the bourbon, but they stay for the picturesque farmland and small-town charm. Located in the heart of the Bluegrass State, Bardstown boasts a variety of locally owned restaurants, eclectic shops, and historical attractions that blend to create a strong Southern spirit you won’t be able to resist.

Harrison-Smith House Restaurant The Harrison-Smith House takes pride in the fact that they are surrounded not only by the best distilleries in the country, but also the best farmland. Chefs Josh Smouse and Newman Miller constantly try to incorporate local, responsibly raised meats, fruits, and vegetables into the menu. You won’t want to miss the fried and glazed Brussels sprouts or the Wild Lake Barkley Catsh. harrisonsmithhouse.com

Photo courtesy Bardstown Tourism

Merrill and Annette Kurtz opened Kurtz restaurant in 1937, serving meals on the rst level of their family home. Today, four generations of Kurtzes still serve Southern cuisine like Kentucky country ham and skillet-fried cornbread. Try one of their tasty pies or cobblers, or our favorite, biscuit pudding drizzled with a decadent bourbon sauce. Kurtz sits next to Federal Hill, the picturesque estate that inspired Stephen Foster’s famous ballad “My Old Kentucky Home,” so take a stroll and check out the park after dinner. bardstownparkview.com

Open since 1907, Birmingham, Alabama-based Peanut Depot uses antique roasters to prepare peanuts the old-fashioned way in one of three avors: fresh roasted, salted, and Cajun. Their store, located on historic Morris Avenue, makes a fun stop on your Southern road trip. $11; peanutdepot.com

31%

OATMEAL CREAM PIES

Kurz Restaurant

Peanut Depot Roasted Peanuts

14%

BEEF JERKY

17%

POTATO CHIPS BOILED PEANUTS PORK SKINS CANDY

21%

12%

5%

Connect with us and join the conversation!

Georgia Blueberry Balsamic Reduction Get a little taste of Italy with a decidedly Southern twist. A&A Alta Cucina produces a number of condiments and sauces that are all handmade in small batches using Georgia ingredients. Their Blueberry Balsamic Reduction is delicious drizzled over salads, cheeses, or even ice cream. $14; altacucinaitalia.com

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

14

/////// SOUTHERN FLAVORS

CHARLESTON BY

BRIAN HART HOFFMAN 6

PHOTOS TAKEN ON IPHONE

The Ordinary

15

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

april 2016

Husk

C

harming Charleston: cultural capital of the

to Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit. Seating is limited at Callie’s,

South. With its cobblestone streets, stately

but the options are anything but. If it can go in a biscuit, owner

churches, and Georgian row houses in a rainbow

Carrie Morey does it—her creativity runs wild! Folks love

of candy colors, it couldn’t be more picturesque. And there’s

trying the biscuit bowls (a really thin biscuit filled with grits

no better time to visit than the spring, when the Holy City

and eggs), but I have to tell you, I’m a simple guy when it comes

puts on its finest celebration, the annual Charleston Wine +

to biscuits. I like them classic, and Carrie delivers. (Turn to

Food Festival. The shops are quaint, the people practically

page 18 to see some of her favorite places to eat in Charleston.)

invented hospitality, and the Lowcountry food is downright

Just across the street is The Macintosh. Chef Jeremiah

magical. Sharing the wonders of Charleston is one of my

Bacon takes his inspiration from classic American and

favorite pastimes, so I’m delighted to relive some of my

Southern food, but what really inspires him is the bounty

favorite journeys and share some of my must-visit places

of the land. In the mood for something classic? Get the Mac

to stop, sip, and eat.

Burger. If you’re feeling adventurous, pick whatever’s fresh.

Neighborhoods are what make Charleston so inviting, and

In Bacon we trust!

Upper King is quickly becoming the heart of the Charleston

Next door to The Macintosh is Glazed, a darling little

food scene. It’s a walkable area, full of energy and growth, ripe

doughnut shop. Here’s the deal with Glazed: They start the day

for exploration by foot. Start at Marion Square (hub of the Wine

with their bakery case packed full with a variety of doughnuts,

+ Food Festival) and meander from place to place, nibbling and

and when they sell out, they shut the door. Make a point to get

sipping your way around this storied city.

in early to beat the crowds, then sit down with a doughnut and

Any time I’m in Charleston, you can bet I’ll be making a run

a cold glass of milk; victory has never been sweeter. tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

16

/////// SOUTHERN FLAVORS

Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit

The Ordinary

To me, Mike Lata’s seafood wonderland The Ordinary

Sundays. Grab a bun with cinnamon and cream cheese frosting,

is anything but. It’s the epitome of Charleston dining;

or go for one with caramelized pecans and brown sugar—or

sophisticated, yet relaxed. It’s the kind of place where you feel

get one of each; I won’t judge! Can’t go on Sunday? Grab one of

just as comfortable spiing yourself up with a pocket square

Lauren’s famous Double Chocolate Cookies, or get one of her

as you do loosening your bow tie. Let the seasons guide your

buttery scones, available in both sweet and savory varieties.

menu choice, and let your bartender choose your drink—mine

I have a well-documented obsession for bakeries and

picked an ice-cold custom concoction in a footed rocks glass,

cofee shops, and it’s not unusual for me to check out two

and I have to tell you: he nailed it. This is the perfect place to

in one day. I couldn’t pass up Sugar, the quintessential

unwind after a day spent exploring Charleston; the evening

Charleston bakery. Located a little of the beaten path, this

light streaming through the arched floor-to-ceiling windows of

picture-perfect shop has a tiny courtyard complete with

this gorgeously restored bank building is simply mesmerizing.

ivy-covered walls and a bicycle out front. Inside, the retro

I continued my culinary adventure in the

theme continues with beautiful pastel-frosted treats under

Cannonborough-Elliotborough neighborhood at Hominy

cake domes. There are so many things to choose from that it’s

Grill, home to one of the best brunches in the country. You

impossible to pick. I asked the owners for help and ended up

know you’ve found a good Southern spot when “Grits are good

with a lemon cupcake—sweet, tart, and perfect.

for you” is painted right on the side of the building! Go for

What better choice to wrap up my visit to this

the shrimp and grits, the house-smoked barbecue, and their

neighborhood than a stop at its namesake restaurant and store,

incredible biscuits and desserts. They’re open for breakfast

Two Boroughs Larder. I can’t tell you about the menu,

all week, but expect a line on the weekend, because the locals

because it changes every day. But I can tell you about their fun

want their brunch, too. Trust me—it’s worth the wait!

selection of table accessories, preserved food, and pantry items.

A good food scene is about more than fancy table linens;

Two Boroughs takes its job as neighborhood larder seriously—

it’s about the bakers and bread makers who change the

it’s jam-packed with unique items for home and table. I fell in

culinary landscape in small ways each and every day. Case

love with the place, including Walter, the Welsh corgi who just

in point: Lauren Mitterer of WildFlour Pastry. She’s done

happens to be part of the family for Chef Josh Keeler and his

the impossible—given the dedicated Sunday brunch crowd

wife Heather. Walter’s image is stamped on everything from

something new to talk about with her super-popular Sticky Bun

menus to the growlers that Two Boroughs sells on site.

17

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

april 2016

Photo courtesy Squire Fox

LIKE A LOCAL

Photo cour tes

y Jason Stemp

le

Last year, I got more than amazing food at the Charleston Wine + FoodFestival: I made a friend for life in Carrie Morey, the baker extraordinaire behind Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit. I love her take on baking and on life, from her fantastic spirit to her insistence that everyone in the kitchen wear a colorful bandana! I asked Carrie to tell me how to eat like a local in Charleston. Here’s her list of must-eats when visiting the Holy City.

MINERO “Charleston has long needed a good Mexican joint. I love how Sean Brock has made Southern and Mexican staples collide—like the roasted okra taco!”

FIG “The food is simple yet complex. It’s delicious and elevated, yet not fancy. When I eat there I feel like a kid on Christmas morning!” LUCCA “I love that the house-made pasta is actually rolled out on the very tables where you dine. There is something so comforting about that.” CHEZ NOUS “My favorite spot for a romantic lunch, the space is adorable and the menu only has six items, which change daily. It takes me back to Paris.”

CHARLESTON WINE + FOOD FESTIVAL MARCH 2-6 Charleston’s Wine + Food Festival is the ultimate celebration of mouth-watering, creative, delicious Southern food, and I love to be there every spring. Join us as we celebrate all of the culinary wonder that Charleston has to ofer. charlestonwineandfood.com

/////// SOUTHERN FLAVORS Charleston owes much of its stellar culinary reputation to superstar Southern chef Sean Brock of McCrady’s and

Husk. Charleston food wouldn’t be what it is today without Husk’s Southern food revival. I practically swooned over the Kentuckyaki Glazed Pig’s Ear Lettuce Wraps, and I actually took a video of the glorious Chocolate Peanut Butter Pie so

SNOB

I could relive the memory whenever I wanted! Don’t miss Brock’s new Latin-inspired casual restaurant, Minero, Photo courtesy Andrew Celbulka

about half a mile from Husk. Not far from Minero, you’ll find a Charleston favorite,

SNOB (Slightly North of Broad). Chef Frank Lee and his staf promise “comforting favorites and surprising discoveries,” and they aren’t kidding: I had a pork belly bánh mì that was absolutely to die for. It was like a delectable deconstructed po’ boy, and that’s comfort food at its best. Their express lunch rings in at under $15, making it a must-stop on my list. It’s hard to find a more iconic Charleston lunch destination than 82 Queen. This 300-year-old address has been home to one of Charleston’s premiere lunch spots for more than 30 years. The food, especially the shrimp and grits and she crab soup, is legendary, and with 11 diferent dining rooms and a huge outdoor garden (surrounding a towering magnolia tree, naturally), you could spend a dozen gorgeous days here and never have the same lunch twice. I couldn’t leave Charleston without having some good, old-fashioned Southern fare at Martha Lou’s. When you’re in Charleston, it’s easy to forget you’re in the midst of an area that has enjoyed enormous business growth. You’re

Minero

in the big city, but you’re also in this small, historic town full of history and tradition—and Martha Lou’s is part of that Charleston. This is the kind of place people can’t get enough of, the soul food joint that’s been around forever. It’s where you get your fried chicken and your butterbeans, where it’s all about the food and not the ambience. Praised by everyone who walks through the door, Martha Lou’s little pink house has gotten a lot of attention lately. Lucky for us, it hasn’t changed one bit. Each time I travel, I remember the importance of holding onto memories even while forging new paths, and Charleston is the epitome of that philosophy. The creativity and innovative spirit of Charleston’s chefs, cooks, and bakers is unmatched, but they never forget to honor their heritage and the natural bounty of the Lowcountry. And that’s what keeps bringing me back, time and time again.

19

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

april 2016

Husk

D

E V O

R P M

W E N

&I

New Features:

DOWNLOAD APP TODAY! tasteofthesouthmagazine.com/digital

FREE FULL SCREEN PREVIEW FOR ALL ISSUES INCLUDING SPECIALS “CLIP” YOUR FAVORITE ARTICLES OR RECIPES

Now on

ALL ISSUES ACCESSIBLE IN ONE PLACE DIRECT DIGITAL ACCESS TO EVERYTHING:

g n i r p S ns e e r G As Southern gardens ke from f o their thei awaken winter slumber, our suppers come alive with fresh spring flavor

BACON-WRAPPED CHICKEN WITH SUGAR SNAP PEAS Makes 6 servings Your family will love coming home to this quick and easy dish.

6 1 1⁄ 2 12 2 1⁄ 2 3⁄ 4

2

25

boneless skinless chicken breasts teaspoon salt teaspoon ground black pepper slices center-cut bacon (8-ounce) packages sugar snap peas cup dry white wine cup heavy whipping cream tablespoons Dijon mustard TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

1. Preheat oven to 400°. 2. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Wrap each chicken breast tightly with 2 pieces of bacon; secure with wooden picks. 3. Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken, and cook until bacon is browned, 5 to 6 minutes per side. Place in oven, and bake for 20 minutes. Remove chicken from skillet; discard wooden picks. 4. Heat skillet over medium-high heat. Add peas; cook until tender,

april 2016

about 3 minutes. Stir in wine. In a small bowl, whisk together cream and mustard. Stir in mustard mixture, and cook until thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Return chicken to skillet, turning to coat. Serve immediately.

SPRING PESTO PASTA Makes 6 servings This recipe makes enough pesto for two meals.

1 1 1 1 1 3⁄ 4 1⁄ 4 1 1 1 2

(4-ounce) bag fresh arugula (1-ounce) package fresh mint (1-ounce) package fresh dill cup pecans, toasted cup grated Parmesan cheese cup olive oil cup fresh lemon juice clove garlic, minced teaspoon salt (8-ounce) package penne pasta (8-ounce) packages fresh English peas, blanched (see tip)

1⁄ 2

(5-ounce) package baby kale Garnish: goat cheese, lemon quarters 1. In the container of a blender, combine arugula, mint, dill, pecans, Parmesan, oil, lemon juice, garlic, and salt; process until smooth. 2. Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain, reserving 1⁄2 cup pasta water. 3. Place pasta in a large serving bowl. Add 1⁄2 cup pesto, and toss with cooked peas and baby kale.

Gradually add reserved 1⁄2 cup pasta water until mixture reaches desired consistency. Garnish with goat cheese and lemon quarters.

itchen TIP To blanch English peas, bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add peas; cook 2 minutes. Drain, and rinse with cold water until peas cool.

ROASTED CHICKEN WITH HERBED RICE Make 6 servings Fresh herbs and lemon juice brighten this crowd-pleasing roasted chicken. 1⁄4

cup olive oil (3- to 4-pound) whole chicken, cut into pieces 11⁄2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 5 cloves garlic, smashed 1⁄4 cup dry white wine 1⁄4 cup fresh lemon juice 2 (8-ounce) packages baby carrots 10 radishes, halved 4 sprigs fresh thyme 1 cup chopped fresh herbs (such as parsley, dill, mint, and basil) Herbed Rice (recipe follows) 1

ROASTED SPRING TURNIPS

Kosher salt Ground black pepper

Make 4 servings Glazed in a sweet vinegar sauce, these roasted turnips were a favorite of our taste testers.

2 2 2 2 2 2 1

27

tablespoons olive oil pounds baby turnips, peeled and quartered tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar tablespoons apple cider vinegar tablespoons butter tablespoons chopped fresh basil tablespoon chopped fresh chives TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

1. Preheat oven to 400°. 2. Heat a 9-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add oil and turnips; cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown. Place in oven, and bake until tender, about 10 minutes. 3. Remove from oven; add brown sugar, vinegar, and butter to pan, stirring until sugar dissolves. 4. To serve, spoon turnips onto plate with pan drippings; top with basil and chives. Season with salt and pepper.

april 2016

1. Preheat oven to 400°. 2. In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Cook chicken until golden brown, 6 to 7 minutes per side. Remove from pan. 3. Add garlic to pan, and cook for 1 minute. Stir in wine and lemon juice. Add carrot, radish, and thyme to pan; top with chicken. 4. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes. Remove thyme; discard. To serve, remove chicken and toss vegetables with fresh herbs. Serve chicken and vegetables with Herbed Rice.

HERBED RICE Cook 1 cup jasmine rice according to package directions. Just before serving, stir in 1⁄4 cup sliced green onion, 2 teaspoons chopped fresh basil, and 1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill.

SPRING FRITTATA Makes about 6 servings Every bite of this frittata is packed with fresh spring flavors.

2 1 2 10 1⁄ 2 1 3⁄ 4 1⁄ 2

1 2 1 1

tablespoons unsalted butter cup chopped fresh asparagus small leeks, thinly sliced large eggs cup half-and-half teaspoon salt, divided teaspoon ground black pepper, divided cup crumbled feta cheese cup grape tomatoes, halved ounces fresh baby arugula tablespoon white wine vinegar tablespoon olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 400°. 2. In a 10-inch enamel-coated cast-iron skillet, heat butter over medium-high heat. Add asparagus and leek; cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. 3. In the container of a blender, combine eggs, half-and-half, 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, and 1⁄2 teaspoon pepper; process until smooth. Pour egg mixture over vegetables in skillet. Sprinkle with cheese. 4. Bake until set, 16 to 18 minutes. 5. In a medium bowl, combine tomato, arugula, vinegar, oil, remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon pepper, tossing to coat. Serve with frittata.

itchen TIP Make sure you use the egg mixture as soon as it is blended to ensure a fluffy frittata.

29

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

april 2016

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

30

State iState

s g g E d e l Devi Stir in a little local flavor PHOTOGRAPHY BY

JIM BATHIE

LOUISIANA SOUTHERN DEVILED EGGS Makes 24

12 large hard-cooked eggs, peeled and halved lengthwise 1⁄ 2 cup mayonnaise* 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1⁄ 4 teaspoon kosher salt

Prepare Southern Deviled Eggs, omitting salt and substituting 2 teaspoons Creole mustard for Dijon mustard. Stir 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning and 1⁄ 4 teaspoon ground red pepper into egg yolk mixture. Top with ground red pepper.

1. In a medium bowl, mash egg yolks with a fork. Stir in mayonnaise, lemon juice, mustard, and salt until smooth. 2. Spoon filling into egg whites. Garnish with desired toppings. Refrigerate until ready to serve. *We used Duke’s Mayonnaise.

GEORGIA Prepare Southern Deviled Eggs as directed. Top with sautéed sweet onions and Spiced Pecans (recipe on page 33).

MISSISSIPPI Prepare Southern Deviled Eggs as directed. Top with Comeback Sauce (recipe on page 33) and crumbled toasted saltine crackers.

TENNESSEE TEXAS Prepare Southern Deviled Eggs as directed. Top with barbecue seasoning,* shredded Cheddar cheese, chopped dill pickles, and barbecue sauce. *We used McCormick Grill Mates Barbecue Seasoning.

Prepare Southern Deviled Eggs as directed. Top with fried chicken skin and hot sauce.

SOUTH CAROLINA Prepare Southern Deviled Eggs as directed, adding 1⁄ 4 cup pimiento cheese to egg yolk mixture. Top with chopped pimientos.

WEST VIRGINIA Prepare Southern Deviled Eggs, omitting salt. Stir 11⁄ 2 teaspoons ranch dressing mix into egg yolk mixture. Top with chopped cooked bacon and chopped fresh herbs.

FLORIDA Prepare Southern Deviled Eggs as directed. Top with Datil Pepper Sauce.

ALABAMA Prepare Southern Deviled Eggs as directed. Top with chopped sweet hot pickles* and White Barbecue Sauce (recipe on page 33). *We used Wickles Sliced Pickles.

COMEBACK SAUCE

SPICED PECANS

Makes about 11⁄ 2 cups

Makes about 3 cups

1 1⁄ 4 1⁄ 2 1⁄ 2 1⁄ 2 1⁄ 4

1 1 3 1 1 1⁄ 2 1⁄ 4

cup mayonnaise cup chili sauce teaspoon garlic salt teaspoon ground black pepper teaspoon Worcestershire sauce teaspoon onion powder

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together all ingredients. Cover and refrigerate up to 1 week.

WHITE BARBECUE SAUCE Makes about 21⁄ 4 cups

11⁄ 2 1⁄ 4 1⁄ 4 1 2 2 2 1 1

cups mayonnaise cup water cup white wine vinegar tablespoon Creole mustard cloves garlic, minced teaspoons ground black pepper teaspoons prepared horseradish teaspoon salt teaspoon sugar

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together all ingredients. Cover and refrigerate up to 1 week.

large egg white tablespoon water cups pecan halves teaspoon salt teaspoon sugar teaspoon ground red pepper teaspoon ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line a baking sheet with foil. 2. In a medium bowl, beat egg white and 1 tablespoon water until frothy. Stir in pecans until combined. Using a slotted spoon, transfer pecans to prepared pan; spread in a single layer. Discard any remaining egg white mixture. 3. In a small bowl, stir together salt, sugar, red pepper, and black pepper. Sprinkle over pecans. 4. Bake until almost dry, about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Let cool completely.

itchen TIPS Deviled eggs taste better the day they are made, but follow these steps to work ahead:

1. Hard cook eggs a day in advance, and store in the refrigerator. 2. The night before serving, peel eggs. Cover and refrigerate until ready to assemble. To make perfect hard-cooked eggs: Place eggs in a large saucepan. Fill pan with enough water to cover eggs by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Once boiling, immediately remove from heat. Let stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Drain immediately, and place eggs in ice water to cool.

o s h O

N R E H T U SO ts r e s s De

MAC JAMIESON CAROLINE SMITH

PHOTOGRAPHY BY AND

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD

VANESSA ROCCHIO KATHLEEN KANEN

STYLING BY AND

PHOTO STYLING BY

MARY BETH JONES

KEY LIME PIE recipe on page 39

State by state and slice by slice, these are some of the South’s sweetest treats

POSSUM PIE recipe on page 41

COCONUT CAKE recipe on page 42

This layered cake is a proud part of Appalachian Tennessee’s culinary heritage. Thin layers of cake filled with reconstituted dried apples or preserves depict the resourcefulness of Southern bakers even in lean times. Historically, especially during The Great Depression, Mountain Stack Cake would be served at weddings and holidays, when costlier cakes were out of the question—neighbors and guests would each bring a layer of cake, which would be stacked and filled as they came.

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray 3 (9-inch) round cake pans with baking spray with flour. 2. In a large bowl, beat 1 cup butter and sugar with a mixer at medium speed until fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, and apple pie spice. In a small bowl, whisk together buttermilk and molasses. Gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with buttermilk mixture, beginning and ending with flour mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. Stir in vanilla. Pour batter into prepared pans (smoothing tops if necessary). 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 28 to 30 minutes. Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, and let cool completely on wire racks. Using a serrated knife, cut each cake layer in half horizontally. 5. In a small saucepan, heat honey and remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat until butter is melted. 6. Brush cake with honey mixture. Spread Apple Filling between layers. Top with whipped cream. Garnish with apple pie spice, if desired.

APPLE FILLING Makes about 4 cups

3

TENNESSEE STACK CAKE

1

Stacked to a glorious height, this cake is filled with sweet apple filling.

1 11⁄ 2 3 5

37

cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided cups sugar large eggs cups all-purpose flour TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

tablespoon baking powder teaspoon salt 1⁄ 2 teaspoon apple pie spice 2 cups whole buttermilk 3⁄ 4 cup molasses 1⁄ 2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1⁄ 2 cup honey Apple Filling (recipe follows) 2 cups sweetened whipped cream Garnish: apple pie spice 1⁄ 2

Makes 1 (9-inch) cake

march

april 2016

3 2 1⁄ 4 2 3

(4.5-ounce) packages dried apples cups water cups sugar cup unsalted butter tablespoons molasses teaspoons apple pie spice

1. In a medium saucepan, combine all ingredients. Bring to a boil; let boil for 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and let cool completely. 2. In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse mixture 5 to 6 times until coarsely chopped.

SWEET POTATO COBBLER Makes 6 to 8 servings Known as a sonker in Surry County, North Carolina, this richly spiced cobbler is a tasty example of stretching what’s available.

Dough: 1⁄2 cup unsalted butter, softened 4 ounces cream cheese, softened 11⁄2 cups self-rising flour 21⁄2 teaspoons sugar, divided 1⁄4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Filling: 8 cups (3⁄4-inch) peeled, cubed sweet potato 1 cup granulated sugar 1⁄2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon orange zest 1⁄2 teaspoon allspice 1⁄4 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar, divided 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, diced Vanilla ice cream, to serve 1. For dough: In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse butter and cream cheese until smooth. Add flour, 11⁄2 teaspoons sugar, salt, vinegar, and vanilla. Pulse until a dough forms. Shape dough into a disk. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 30 minutes. 2. For filling: In a medium Dutch oven, place sweet potato. Add water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat. Boil until almost tender, about 5 minutes. Drain. 3. Preheat oven to 375°. In a medium bowl, stir together granulated sugar, brown sugar, flour, zest, allspice, and salt. 4. In a 2-quart baking dish, place half of sweet potatoes. Drizzle with half of vinegar; sprinkle with half of sugar mixture. Repeat once. Sprinkle with butter. Set aside. 5. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 12x8-inch rectangle, trimming edges to straighten, if necessary. Cut dough lengthwise into 8 (1 inch wide) strips. Arrange strips over sweet potato mixture in a lattice design. Trim excess dough; fold over as desired. Sprinkle with remaining 1 teaspoon sugar. 6. Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving. Serve with ice cream, if desired.

KEY LIME PIE Makes 1 (9-inch) pie Tart Key lime juice meets a sweet custard filling in this Florida favorite.

11⁄ 4 cups graham cracker crumbs 1⁄ 4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar 1⁄ 4 cup unsalted butter, melted 2 (14-ounce) cans sweetened condensed milk 2 large eggs 1 cup Key lime juice* 11⁄ 2 cups heavy whipping cream 1⁄ 4 cup confectioners’ sugar Garnish: lime slices 1. Preheat oven to 350°. 2. In a medium bowl, combine graham cracker crumbs, brown sugar, and melted butter. Press mixture into bottom and up sides of a 9-inch pie plate. te te 3. Bake until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely. 4. In a large bowl, whisk together condensed milk, eggs, and lime juice until combined. Pour into prepared crust. 5. Bake until set, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely. 6. In a medium bowl, beat cream and confectioners’ sugar with a mixer at high speed until stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. Spread whipped cream over pie. Garnish with lime slices, if desired. *Regular lime juice may be substituted.

Ke ey lime pie traces its roots back to Key West, Florida. Most sources believe the first written recipe for Key Lime Pie is from 1855 by a woman known as “Aunt Sally”—the cook at the home of Key West’s first millionaire, William Curry. Curry began importing cans of sweetened condensed milk to Key West, where its resistance to spoilage made it very popular among the fishermen who were a part of the boom of sponge fishing that took place in the Keys’ shallow waters at the time. It is thought that these sponge fishermen were the ones who invented the earliest recipes for Key Lime Pie, combining Key limes, pelican eggs, and the sweetened condensed milk. Key Lime Pie has etched a spot in the culture of Florida, and there is now an annual Key Lime Pie Festival in Cape Canaveral, and in 2006, Florida passed legislation naming Key lime pie the official pie of the state of Florida.

KENTUCKY BOURBON CHOCOLATE PECAN PIE Makes 1 (9-inch) pie It only makes sense that a dessert representing Kentucky pays homage to the state’s signature spirit.

11⁄ 4 cups bittersweet chocolate morsels 11⁄ 4 cups toasted pecans, chopped Baked Buttermilk Piecrust (recipe follows) 2⁄ 3 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour 1⁄ 2 teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup dark corn syrup 4 tablespoons bourbon, divided 1⁄ 3 cup unsalted butter, melted 3 large eggs Vanilla ice cream, to serve 1. Preheat oven to 375°. 2. Sprinkle chocolate morsels and pecans into bottom of prepared Buttermilk Piecrust. In a large bowl, whisk together brown sugar, flour, and salt. Add corn syrup, 3 tablespoons bourbon, melted butter, and eggs; whisk until smooth. Pour bourbon mixture over pecans. Loosely cover edge of piecrust with foil. 3. Bake for 30 minutes. Remove foil; bake until set, about 15 minutes more, loosely covering filling with foil to prevent excess browning, if necessary. Let cool completely on a wire rack. Refrigerate until firm, about 6 hours. Brush with remaining 1 tablespoon bourbon, if desired. Serve with ice cream.

BUTTERMILK PIECRUST Makes 1 piecrust

11⁄ 4 1 1 8

cups all-purpose flour teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon sugar tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed 3 to 4 tablespoons whole buttermilk, chilled

1. Preheat oven to 425°. 2. In a medium bowl, stir together flour, salt, and sugar. Using 2 forks or a pastry blender, cut in butter until mixture is crumbly. Add buttermilk, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring until a dough forms. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface; shape into a disk. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes. Let stand at room temperature until slightly softened, 20 to 30 minutes. 3. On a lightly floured surface, roll

dough to a 12-inch circle. Transfer dough into a 9-inch pie plate. Trim excess crust to extend 1⁄2 inch beyond edge of pie plate. Tuck edges under, and crimp as desired. Line piecrust with parchment paper, letting the ends of paper extend over the edges of the pie plate. Place pie weights in the paper-lined crust. 4. Bake until edges of crust are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Remove from oven. Carefully remove paper and weights. Let cool on a wire rack for 30 minutes before adding filling.

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

40

In the South, it’s hard to go far without finding great pies. But one unique version you will only find in Arkansas is possum pie—a layered pie consisting of a flour and pecan crust, a cream cheese layer, a chocolate custard layer, and a whipped topping layer. Happily, we can report that no actual possum goes into the mix—the name, it seems, comes from the idea that the pie is “playing possum,” or appearing harder to make than it is. If preparing one for a neighbor, be sure to wipe a little flour on your cheek to maintain the illusion.

er Covrecipe POSSUM PIE

2

Makes 1 (9-inch) deep-dish pie

2

(3.9-ounce) boxes chocolate instant pudding mix cups whole milk

Originating in Arkansas, this crowd-

Whipped cream layer: 2 cups heavy whipping cream 1⁄ 4 cup confectioners’ sugar 1⁄ 3 cup chopped toasted pecans

pleasing pie has four rich layers.

Crust: 1⁄ 2 cup unsalted butter 1 cup all-purpose flour Pinch of salt 3⁄ 4 cup chopped toasted pecans Cream cheese layer: 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened 1 cup confectioners’ sugar 1⁄ 2 cup heavy whipping cream Chocolate layer: 1 (8-ounce) container sour cream

41

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate with cooking spray. 2. For crust: In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add flour and salt, stirring until well combined. Remove from heat; stir in pecans. Spoon mixture into prepared plate, pressing into bottom and up sides. Bake until lightly browned, 18 to 19 minutes. Let cool completely.

april 2016

3. For cream cheese layer: In a medium bowl, beat together cream cheese, confectioners’ sugar, and cream with a mixer at medium speed until smooth. Spread over prepared crust. 4. For chocolate layer: In a large bowl, whisk together sour cream, pudding mix, and milk until combined. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or until set. 5. Carefully spoon chocolate layer over cream cheese layer. Cover with wax paper and refrigerate until layers are firm, at least 3 hours. 6. For whipped cream layer: In a medium bowl, beat cream and confectioners’ sugar with a mixer at high speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Spread whipped cream over chocolate layer. Sprinkle with pecans.

COCONUT CAKE

SEVEN-MINUTE FROSTING

Makes 1 (9-inch) cake

Makes about 6 cups

Shipped to South Carolina’s ports since

4 2 1⁄ 2

the 18th century, coconut has a long history in the state—perhaps its

large egg whites cups sugar cup water

2 1 1⁄ 2

tablespoons light corn syrup teaspoon vanilla extract teaspoon coconut extract

noblest of iterations being the lauded coconut cake.

1 cup unsalted butter, softened 2 cups sugar 3 large eggs 4 cups cake flour* 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 cup whole milk 1⁄ 2 teaspoon coconut extract Seven-Minute Frosting (recipe follows) 4 cups sweetened flaked coconut 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray 3 (9-inch) cake pans with baking spray with flour. 2. In a large bowl, beat butter and sugar with a mixer at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour and baking powder. Gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with milk, beginning and ending with flour mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. Stir in coconut extract. Pour batter into prepared pans (smoothing tops, if necessary). 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 28 to 30 minutes. Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, and let cool completely on wire racks. 5. Spread 1⁄2 cup Seven-Minute Frosting in between each layer; sprinkle each layer with 1 cup coconut. Spread remaining frosting on top and sides of cake; cover with remaining 2 cups coconut. *We used Swans Down.

1. In a medium glass bowl, beat egg whites, sugar, 1⁄2 cup water, corn syrup, and extracts with a mixer at high speed until smooth. 2. Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, creating a double boiler. Beat at high speed until soft peaks form, 5 to 7 minutes; remove from heat. Beat until mixture reaches a spreadable consistency, 2 to 3 minutes. Use immediately.

TEXAS SHEET CAKE Makes 1 (15x10-inch) cake Easy to prepare, this chocolate dessert is a mainstay at Texas barbecues and potlucks.

1 1 1⁄ 3 2 2

cup unsalted butter, cubed cup water cup unsweetened cocoa powder cups all-purpose flour cups firmly packed dark brown sugar 1 tablespoon espresso powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1⁄ 2 teaspoon kosher salt 1⁄ 2 cup whole buttermilk 1⁄ 2 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 large eggs Chocolate Frosting (recipe follows) 11⁄ 2 cups toasted pecans, chopped

43

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 15x10-inch jelly-roll pan with baking spray with flour. 2. In a medium saucepan, combine butter, 1 cup water, and cocoa; whisk over medium-low heat until butter is melted and mixture is smooth. Pour into a bowl; let cool until slightly warm. 3. In a large bowl, combine flour, brown sugar, espresso, baking soda, and salt. In a small bowl, whisk together buttermilk, vanilla, and eggs. Make a well in the center of dry ingredients; add butter mixture and egg mixture, whisking until smooth. Pour into prepared pan. 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 15 minutes. 5. Let cool until slightly warm, about 30 minutes. Spread Chocolate Frosting over cake. Sprinkle with pecans. Let stand until set.

april 2016

CHOCOLATE FROSTING Makes about 13⁄ 4 cups 1⁄ 3

cup water cup unsalted butter, cubed 31⁄ 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder 1 pound confectioners’ sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1⁄ 8 teaspoon salt 1⁄ 4

1. In a small saucepan, combine 1⁄3 cup water, butter, and cocoa;

whisk over medium heat until butter is melted and mixture simmers. Remove from heat. 2. In a large bowl, combine butter mixture, confectioners’ sugar, vanilla, and salt. Beat with a mixer at medium speed until smooth. Spread over slightly warm cake.

LANE CAKE

Author Harper Lee writes this famous Alabama cake into her novel, To Kill A Mockingbird, when Scout reports that Miss Maudie Atkinson “baked a Lane cake so loaded with shinny it made me tight.” First baked by Emma Rylander Lane of Clayton, Alabama, the Lane Cake won first prize at a county fair in Columbus, Georgia, and was later published in her 1898 cookbook, Some Good Things To Eat. Lane Cake is no weekday dessert—expect to see this showstopper at weddings, holidays, and other special occasions.

Makes 1 (9-inch) cake This is an indulgent cake filled with a boozy fruit and nut filling and covered in fluffy sweet frosting.

1 2 31⁄ 2 1 1⁄ 4 1 8

cup unsalted butter, softened cups sugar cups all-purpose flour tablespoon baking powder teaspoon salt cup whole milk large egg whites (reserve yolks for filling) Lane Cake Filling (recipe follows) 1⁄ 2 recipe Seven-Minute Frosting, omitting coconut extract (recipe on page 42) 1. Preheat oven to 325°. Spray 3 (9-inch) cake pans with baking spray with flour. 2. In a large bowl, beat butter with a mixer at medium speed until creamy. Gradually add sugar, beating until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. 3. In another large bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, and salt. With mixer at low speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with milk, beginning and ending with flour mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. 4. In another large bowl, using clean beaters, beat egg whites with a mixer at high speed until stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. Fold one-third of egg whites into batter; fold in remaining egg whites. Spoon batter into prepared pans. 5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, let cool completely on wire racks. 6. Spread about 21⁄2 cups Lane Cake Filling between layers. Spread SevenMinute Frosting on top and sides of cake. Top with remaining filling.

LANE CAKE FILLING Makes about 61⁄ 2 cups

8 1 1⁄ 2 11⁄ 2 11⁄ 2 11⁄ 2 11⁄ 2 1⁄ 3 11⁄ 2

large egg yolks cup sugar cup unsalted butter, melted cups chopped toasted pecans cups chopped golden raisins cups chopped dried apricots cups sweetened flaked coconut cup bourbon teaspoons vanilla extract

1. In a medium heatproof bowl, beat egg yolks with a mixer at medium

speed for 3 minutes. Gradually add sugar, beating until combined, about 3 minutes. Gradually add butter, beating at low speed until combined. 2. Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, creating a double boiler. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens and an instant-read thermometer registers 170°, 30 to 35 minutes. 3. Remove from heat. Stir in pecans, raisins, apricot, coconut, bourbon, and vanilla. Cover and refrigerate for 3 hours.

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

44

BY

GINNY HEARD

For many Southern towns,

restaurants are part of their very soul. Located in everything from historic buildings to ramshackle houses, these iconic restaurants have kept their communities alive through the special magic of the shared meal. With so many wonderful restaurants in the South from which to choose, picking favorites would be downright impossible. Instead, we’ve focused on iconic spots that have been in business for at least 40 years and have helped build the Southern culinary landscape. Here’s our list of iconic Southern restaurants that have been serving their customers and keeping them coming back for decades. Without them, the South simply wouldn't be the same.

CoMmAnDeR’s PaLaCe NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA

Commander’s Palace is certainly known for a few key menu items (who could forget Commander’s Bread Pudding Soufflé?), but they are also constantly pushing the New Orleans food scene. After closing for 13 months to rebuild after Hurricane Katrina, Commander’s opened stronger than ever, with the philosophy of improving and constantly evolving Creole and New Orleans cuisine. “At our core, we are trying to be the world’s greatest neighborhood restaurant,” explains co-owner Ti Martin. She and her cousin Lally Brennan always say that while they may hold the keys to Commander’s, the restaurant really belongs to New Orleans. 1403 WASHINGTON AVE. | 504.899.8221 commanderspalace.com

PoOgAn’s PoRcH CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA

MrS. WiLkEs DiNiNg RoOm SAVANNAH, GEORGIA

Once standard in many Southern towns, boarding houses are harder to find these days. This is how the Wilkes House got its start, serving hearty meals and ofering lodging to local middle class laborers. Selma Wilkes bought the boarding house in 1943, cultivating relationships with local farmers and becoming known for her good food. Over the years, the Wilkes House has maintained its reputation, continuing to serve delicious Southern food in the famous family-style dining room. Located on elegant Jones Street, this family-run operation shares a bit of historic Savannah. 107 W. JONES ST. | 912.232.5997 mrswilkes.com

Housed in a Victorian home built in the 1800s, Poogan’s opened in 1976 and has been serving locals and visitors ever since. The restaurant got its name from a friendly neighborhood dog—while the restaurant was being built, Poogan the pooch spent his time lying around on the porch, snacking on scraps. There are many things here that have stood the test of time—Isaac the biscuit man, who’s still baking their biscuits after 30 years and their shrimp and grits, to name but two—but chef Daniel Doyle is not afraid to let the menu evolve. “We’ve split the menu into classic and contemporary sides,” chef Daniel says. “That way our customers who have been coming for 40 years and newcomers can find something they like.” 72 QUEEN ST. | 843.577.2337 poogansporch.com

ThE PlAzA ReStAuRaNt & OyStEr BaR

MaRy MaC’s tEa rOoM

THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA

ATL ANTA, GEORGIA

OPENED IN: 1916 FAMOUS FOR: Being the oldest

This fast-paced meat-and-three has been serving up tasty Southern meals since 1945, when Margaret Mackenzie founded her tearoom. During World War II, women began to enter the workplace, many opening restaurants. But in Atlanta, the restaurant world was not seen as a place for women, so they had to refer to their businesses as tearooms. At the height of their popularity, there were 16 tearooms in Atlanta, but Mary Mac’s is the only one left. They’ve maintained the same style, recipes, and even servers, some of whom have been there for more than 40 years. Mary Mac’s has been named by the state of Georgia as “Atlanta’s Dining Room,” and their customers agree—you’ll often find families with multiple generations around the tables, happily eating made-from-scratch fried chicken, mac and cheese, fried green tomatoes, and Georgia Pecan Pie (recipe on page 55).

restaurant in the state of Georgia, food with Italian and Greek influences, and their oyster menu. 217 S. BROAD ST. | 229.226.5153 thomasvilleplaza.com

JoNeS BaR-B-Q DiNeR MARIANNA, ARK ANSAS

Barbecue expert Harold Jones has been working in the restaurant since he was 14 years old. Started in 1964 by Harold’s father, Jones Bar-B-Q Diner is now helmed by Harold, who has continued the traditions taught to him. Simplicity is the name of the game when it comes to the menu—you can order sandwiches or meat by the pound, with only white bread and homemade slaw as the accompanying options. This doesn’t seem to slow anyone down—customers continually file in to get their fill. 219 W. LOUISIANA ST. | 870.295.3802

47

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

224 PONCE DE LEON AVE. N.E. 404.876.1800 marymacs.com

april 2016

POOGAN’S PORCH

TeXaS TaVeRn ROANOKE, VIRGINIA

ArNoLd’s CoUnTrY KiTcHeN NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE

Our one slight exception to the 40-year rule, this representative of the South’s meat-and-three tradition could not be left of the list. Opened in 1982 by Jack and Rose Arnold, this mom-and-pop restaurant has been ofering perfectly cooked Southern veggies and mains to the delight of hungry patrons ever since. Now with the help of their son, Kahlil, Rose continues to serve the recipes that made customers fall in love with the place. 605 8TH AVE. S. | 615.256.4455 arnoldscountrykitchen.com

This Roanoke landmark opened in 1930, serving hotdogs, hamburgers, and a chili recipe that founder, Nick Bullington, picked up from a chef in San Antonio, Texas. Even though it opened at the height of the Great Depression, this 10-stool spot drew folks in with its afordable food and casual atmosphere. Known to locals as “Roanoke’s Millionaires’ Club,” Texas Tavern certainly makes customers feel that way with their still-afordable menu prices. If you want to feel like a regular, check out the lingo ahead of time on their website—you’ll feel like you belong when you order a bowl and tell them to add a slab (for us lay folk, a bowl of chili with cheese). 114 W. CHURCH AVE. SW | 540.342.4825 texastavern-inc.com

FrOsToP DrIvE-In HUNTINGTON, WEST VIRGINIA

This Huntington mainstay has been serving slaw dogs and frosty root beers since 1959. Pull into a parking spot and honk your horn for service—the carhops will come to you! The daughters of the original owner run the show now and haven’t changed much about the restaurant. They still steam their hot dog buns and even make their root beer on-site in small batches to ensure quality. Customers think this is a good thing—they love the taste and the nostalgia. Still in its original location, complete with its 1950s design and an enormous mug of root beer on the roof, this restaurant is going strong. 1449 HAL GREER BLVD. | 304.523.6851

PoOlE’s DoWnToWn DiNeR R ALEIGH, NORTH CAROLINA OPENED IN: 1945 FAMOUS FOR: Changed-daily upscale

versions of Southern diner favorites by Chef Ashley Christensen. 426 S. MCDOWELL ST. | 919.832.4477 ac-restaurants.com/pooles

ThE SnApPy LuNcH

SkYlIgHt InN

DoOkY ChAsE’s ReStAuRaNt

MOUNT AIRY, NORTH CAROLINA

AYDEN, NORTH CAROLINA

NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA

In the same location since it opened in 1923, The Snappy Lunch has catered to local workers as well as students who attended nearby schools. Here they could get bologna sandwiches and hot dogs for nickels and dimes; you can still get those menu items for a slight raise in price, at $1.65 and $1.35, respectively. In the early days, a local student by the name of Andy Griith would spend time here and would go on to mention The Snappy Lunch in his television show. That’s not their only claim to fame, however—they are well known for their “Famous Pork Chop Sandwich,” dressed with chili, coleslaw, mustard, onions, and tomato, and totally worth the mess.

The Skylight Inn has been cooking whole hogs over wood since 1947. Founder, Pete Jones, took to the pit at only 17 years of age, and passed the love of barbecue down to his son, Bruce, who now runs the place with his son and nephew. Their flavorful smoked pork has won over the taste buds of locals as well as big name-visitors, including Ronald Reagan and George Bush, and has become a standard in the eastern North Carolina barbecue cannon. Serving homemade cornbread and slaw with their whole hog barbecue trays and sandwiches, Skylight Inn won’t hesitate to fill you up. And just in case that’s not quite enough, you can always have your choice of a slice of three-layer chocolate or pineapple cake.

Now known for the delicious dishes from the Queen of Creole Cuisine herself, Leah Chase, Dooky Chase’s Restaurant was originally just a sandwich shop and lottery ticket outlet. When Dooky Chase, Jr. married Leah, they took his father’s concept and greatly expanded it into a dining restaurant featuring African-American and Creole cuisine. Beyond the food, they decorated the restaurant with African-American art, becoming the first art gallery of its kind in New Orleans. The restaurant also served as a place to discuss pressing civil rights issues in the 1960s, hosting dinners attended by such notable leaders as Martin Luther King, Jr.

125 N. MAIN ST. | 336.786.4931 thesnappylunch.com

4618 S. LEE ST. | 252.746.4113 skylightinnbbq.com

PaPpAs BrOs. StEaKhOuSe HOUSTON, TEX AS

While Pappas Bros. Steakhouse was opened in 1976, owners and brothers Harris and Chris Pappas have a much longer history with food, stemming from their grandfather who came to America from Greece and opened restaurants in Tennessee, Arkansas, and Texas. The brothers have continued the passion for food and service that was instilled in them at a young age. In Texas, steaks are a big deal, and the Pappas Bros. credit their success to their secret dry-aging process—of which there are only three written copies, kept close to the vest. DOWNTOWN HOUSTON LOCATION 1200 MCKINNEY ST. | 713.658.1995 pappasbros.com

2301 ORLEANS AVE. | 504.821.0600 dookychaserestaurant.com

CHARLES VERGOS' RENDEZ VOUS

CHARLES VERGOS' RENDEZ VOUS

ChArLeS VeRgOs’ ReNdEzVoUs

BlUe BoNnEt CaFé

GaLaToIrE’s ReStAuRaNt

MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE

MARBLE FALLS, TEX AS

NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA

OPENED IN: 1948 FAMOUS FOR: A basement full of

Blue Bonnet Café perfectly encapsulates the friendly, small-town eatery—a place to catch up with friends, collect light town gossip, and get a delicious piece of pie. In business since 1929, the café has always specialized in delicious Southern fare. When café regulars John and Belinda Kemper bought the restaurant, they kept the same menu, knowing they had a good thing going. A particularly spectacular addition to the menu is the pie selection—Belinda’s pies are baked fresh every day and piled high with meringue or whipped cream. They even have a “pie happy hour” on weekdays from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Tradition marks this Bourbon Street restaurant, which still requires jackets for gentlemen after five in the evening. Founder Jean Galatoire brought recipes from his small village in France in 1905, and now the fifth generation of the family continues to carry on the tastes and style that he started. When going to Galatoire’s, be sure to know the rules: no reservations are taken, so be prepared to wait in line. With consistently great food and service, the wait is worth it. Galatoire’s has seen may faces come through that line, including many famous ones, from politicians to celebrities—so you’re in good company.

211 HW Y. 281 | 830.693.2344 bluebonnetcafe.net

galatoires.com

patrons sinking their teeth into some of the most succulent ribs—a Memphis must! 52 S. SECOND ST. | 901.523.2746 hogsŴy.com

PaScAl’s MaNaLe NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA OPENED IN: 1913 FAMOUS FOR: Barbecue shrimp and

Oysters Rockefeller; the historic photographs that cover the walls. 1838 NAPOLEON AVE. | 504.895.4877 pascalsmanale.com

209 BOURBON ST. | 504.525.2021

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

50

DoE’s EaT PlAcE GREENVILLE, MISSISSIPPI

TuJaGuE’s ReStAuRaNt

Doe’s has been impressing diners with their enormous and delicious steaks since 1941—though they got into the restaurant business somewhat by accident. The building was originally a grocery store, but when it flooded in 1927, owner Dominick “Doe” Signa started bootlegging to earn money to reopen. In 1941, Doe’s wife, Mamie, improved on a hot tamale recipe, and together they opened a honky tonk in the old store. White people were not allowed in the spot and would only come to the back to drop of supplies. Eventually, one of the local white doctors began coming for a meal between calls, and Doe would cook up a big steak and let him eat in the back. Word got out, and folks started showing up for his delicious steaks—so much so, he decided to close the honky tonk and focus on the food. When you go today, you still walk through the original honky tonk’s front-of-house kitchen to get to the dining rooms, and you can still get their famous steaks and tamales, just like they’ve always made them.

NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA

502 NELSON ST. | 662.334.3315 doeseatplace.com

DrAgO’s SeAfOoD ReStAuRaNt METAIRIE, LOUISIANA

At Drago’s Seafood Restaurant, they credit their ongoing success to the fact that they love what they do—and it shows. Opened in 1969 by Drago and Klara Cvitanovich, Drago’s has kept the quality of its seafood dishes and its service high. They are known far and wide for their charbroiled oysters, which they brush with garlic butter and herbs and cook on a grill right in their shells. The Cvitanovich family is still very involved in the day-to-day running of the restaurant, sharing their hospitable natures with their customers. Now with three locations—two in Louisiana and one in Mississippi—Drago’s fan base continues to grow. 3232 N. ARNOULT RD. | 504.888.9254 dragosrestaurant.com

OPENED IN: 1856 FAMOUS FOR: Extensive history and

classic flavors of New Orleans: shrimp remoulade, and beef brisket with horseradish. 823 DECATUR ST. | 504.525.8676 tujaguesrestaurant.com

CoLuMbIa ReStAuRaNt TAMPA, FLORIDA

Florida’s oldest restaurant, Columbia, is located in Tampa’s Ybor City neighborhood. One of the fifth generation of owners, Andrea Gonzmart Williams, recalls growing up in the restaurant, spending holidays and weekends there for as long as she can remember. “I think growing up there is what instills that pride and passion in each generation to keep it going,” she says. Her great, great grandfather, Casimiro Hernandez, Sr., first opened Columbia Restaurant in 1905. It started as a small corner café and has grown over the years to cover a whole city block. Each of the 15 dining rooms has a diferent feel, from the original corner café of yesteryear to an elegant, fine dining room. This steadfast part of Tampa’s dining scene is still serving up original dishes, including their 1905 Salad (recipe on page 55), a favorite among customers, topped with julienned ham, Swiss cheese, tomato, olives, and Columbia’s famous garlic dressing. 2117 E. 7TH AVE. | 813.248.4961 columbiarestaurant.com

COLUMBIA RESTAUR ANT

JoE’s StOnE CrAb CaP’s PlAcE IsLaNd ReStAuRaNt

BoWeNs IsLaNd ReStAuRaNt

LIGHTHOUSE POINT, FLORIDA

CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA

Situated on an island and only reachable by boat, this landmark restaurant has been known for their fresh seafood and hearts of palm salad since 1928. Opened by Cap and Lola Knight along with Al Hasis, it was originally a Prohibitionera rum-running restaurant and casino, hidden out on the island away from prying eyes. Patrons flocked to the restaurant to drink, gamble, and enjoy the very unusual food—beyond the classic seafood favorites, they also served items like turtle egg pancakes and seagrape jelly on hot rolls. While some things have changed over the years, Cap’s Place is still full of intrigue and a view into a bygone era.

OPENED IN: 1946 FAMOUS FOR: Fresh oysters,

2765 N.E. 28TH CT. | 954.941.0418 capsplace.com

fried seafood, and patio views of Charleston’s marshes. 1870 BOWENS ISL AND RD. 843.795.2757

BrOuSsArD’s NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA OPENED IN: 1920 FAMOUS FOR: Their blend of Creole

and French cuisines, not to mention the original owner’s decorating penchant for all things Napoleonic. 819 RUE CONTI | 504.581.3866 broussards.com

MIAMI BEACH, FLORIDA

Opened in 1913 as a small lunch counter on Miami Beach, Joe’s Stone Crab was a popular spot for fish sandwiches and fries. But it wasn’t until 1921, when founder Joe Weiss was introduced to the stone crab by a visiting scientist, that he experimented with cooking them. The man brought a bag full of them to the restaurant one day, and Joe threw them in a pot of boiling water. Turned out that was exactly the way to cook them, and customers went crazy for them, along with the hash brown potatoes, coleslaw and mayonnaise served on the side. The rest is history, and the fourth and fifth generations of the family, along with employees who have been there as long as fifty years, work hard to maintain it. 11 WASHINGTON AVE. | 305.673.0365 joesstonecrab.com

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

52

THE RED FOX INN & TAVERN

ARNAUD'S

JaCk FrY’s

LuScO’s ReStAuRaNt

ArNaUd’s

LOUISVILLE, KENTUCK Y

GREENWOOD, MISSISSIPPI

NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA

Jack Fry and his wife, Flossie, started their restaurant and sportsman’s hangout in 1933, after a lucky win at Churchill Downs. In fact, over the bar you can find a picture of Jack holding his two winning tickets, each worth $10,000. Housed in a building that has been around since 1903, this place has some history—and Jack Fry added to it with the pictures they’ve hung on the walls and the stories about his bootlegging backroom deals (an area now appropriately dedicated to liquor storage). Customers still come to the restaurant to tell stories about Jack and to reminisce while chowing down on some of the classic menu items like their shrimp and grits with red-eye gravy.

OPENED IN: 1933 FAMOUS FOR: Mississippi seafood

Founder Arnaud Cazenave brought his French flare to New Orleans dining in 1918 when he opened his restaurant in an old warehouse on a dare. As Arnaud’s grew wildly popular (thanks to dishes like the Trout Amandine, recipe on page 56), he bought adjacent buildings until the restaurant grew into a labyrinth of dining rooms. Arnaud’s fell into a bit of disrepair in the 1970s, until current coowner Katy Casbarian’s parents bought the famed spot and slowly renovated it to bring it back to its original glory.

1007 BARDSTOWN RD. 502.452.9244 jackfrys.com

with Italian and Creole influences. 722 CARROLLTON AVE. | 662.453.5365 luscos.net

ThE ReD FoX InN & TaVeRn MIDDLEBURG, VIRGINIA

Located in the foothills of the Blue Ridge and Bull Run mountains, the Red Fox Inn & Tavern is an important part of historic Middleburg, Virginia. Built in 1728, it has played parts in both the Revolutionary and Civil Wars and continues to share its history with patrons today. They’ve certainly updated the tavern to fit with the times, but the cozy, Old World feel remains, complete with massive fireplaces and dark wooden beams. Don’t miss the Virginia peanut soup and their popular fried chicken. 2 E. WASHINGTON ST. | 540.687.6301 redfox.com

53

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

april 2016

813 RUE BIENVILLE | 504.523.5433 arnaudsrestaurant.com

Mi TiErRa CaFé Y PaNaDeRiA SAN ANTONIO, TEX AS OPENED IN: 1941 FAMOUS FOR: Delicious Tex-Mex, fresh

baked goods, and staying open 24-7. 218 PRODUCE ROW | 210.225.1262 mitierracafe.com

ThE BrIgHt StAr ReStAuRaNt

WeIdMaNn’s ReStAuRaNt

ThE OlD TaLbOtT TaVeRn

BESSEMER, AL ABAMA

MERIDIAN, MISSISSIPPI

BARDSTOWN, KENTUCK Y

A favorite of locals and visitors alike, this Alabama spot is a melting pot of Southern favorites and Greek inspiration. Established in 1907, the restaurant was bought by Bill and Pete Koikos after they emigrated from Greece in 1923. Since then, the following generations of the same family have carefully maintained the quality of the restaurant. With delicious food and outstanding service, The Bright Star’s reputation has helped them grow over the years, from the original 25-seat café to the current 330seat restaurant. With murals and décor dating back to 1915, the restaurant is a view into a bygone era. When you visit, try the Greek Style Snapper, or make it at home (recipe on page 55).

Located in downtown Meridian, Weidmann’s Restaurant is a culinary tradition in these parts—one steeped in history since 1870. Established by Felix Weidmann, who was a chef on a transatlantic steam ship, Weidmann’s began as a small counter in a hotel. Over the years its popularity grew, and in 1923 Felix’s grandson Henry moved the restaurant to its current location. During World War II, Weidmann’s became known for their peanut butter crocks (served complimentary with crackers before the meal)—their answer to the shortage of butter during the war. Though ownership is no longer in the same family as it was for years, Weidmann’s still carries on the restaurant’s traditions in food, style, and service.

If you’re looking for Kentucky history, Bardstown’s Talbott Tavern is the place to go. This inn and restaurant has been around since 1779 and has had historical guests like Abraham Lincoln and the James and Younger Gang (who kindly shot up their wall murals—you can still see the bullet holes!). The food they serve is very traditional Southern cooking—“We fry our chicken in lard in cast-iron skillets,” owner Jim Kelly says. They make everything from scratch, serving breakfast and dinner daily. And perhaps most important, considering the fact that this is Kentucky, Talbott Tavern has the original and oldest bourbon bar in the world.

304 19TH ST. N. 205.426.1861/205.424.9444 thebrightstar.com

107 W. STEPHEN FOSTER 502.348.3494 talbotts.com

210 22ND AVE. | 601.581.5770 weidmanns1870.com

ThE LoVeLeSs CaFe NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE

If you pay attention to Southern food, it’s hard to not know about The Loveless Cafe. This spot, famous for their classic take on Southern staples, started to take shape in 1951 when Lon and Annie Loveless began serving fried chicken and biscuits out of their home to passing travelers. As Annie’s scratch-made biscuits drew more and more customers, their home started becoming a planned stop and the couple opened a 14-room motel to help lodge folks. Its most recent owners have worked hard to revive the history and original feel of the cafe, and to remain true to its roots: Southern comfort food. 8400 HW Y 100 | 615.646.9700 lovelesscafe.com

COLUMBIA RESTAURANT’S ORIGINAL “1905” SALAD

1⁄ 8

cup white wine vinegar Salt and pepper, to taste

Makes 2 full salads or 4 side salads

iCoNiC

Restaurants

ReCiPeS THE BRIGHT STAR’S GREEK STYLE SNAPPER

Recipe courtesy Columbia Restaurant, Tampa Florida

4

cups iceberg lettuce, broken into 11⁄ 2 -inch pieces 1 ripe tomato, cut into eighths 1⁄ 2 cup baked ham, julienned 1⁄ 2 cup Swiss cheese, julienned 1⁄ 2 cup pimiento-stuffed green Spanish olives “1905” Dressing (recipe follows) 1⁄ 4 cup Romano cheese, grated 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 lemon

Makes 6 servings Recipe courtesy The Bright Star Restaurant, Bessemer, Alabama

Juice of 3 lemons (3⁄ 4 cup juice) 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano 3⁄ 4 teaspoon kosher salt, divided 1⁄ 2 teaspoon ground black pepper, divided 1 cup plus 4 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil, divided 1⁄ 2 cup all-purpose flour 1⁄ 2 cup unsalted butter, melted 6 (8-ounce) fresh snapper fillets 1. Make sauce by mixing lemon juice, oregano, 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, and 1⁄4 teaspoon pepper in a bowl with a whisk. Slowly pour 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons oil into lemon mixture, whisking until emulsified. 2. In a small bowl, whisk together flour, remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon pepper. 3. To prepare fish, pour melted butter over each fillet, coating evenly. Lightly dust each piece with flour mixture. In a heavy skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Add half of fish to skillet; cook until lightly browned. Repeat with remaining oil and fish. Pour sauce over fish and serve immediately.

1. Combine lettuce, tomato, ham, Swiss cheese, and olives in a large salad bowl. Before serving, add “1905” Dressing, Romano cheese, Worcestershire, and the juice of 1 lemon. Toss well, and serve immediately.

“1905” DRESSING Makes about 2⁄ 3 cup 1⁄ 2

4 2

cup extra-virgin Spanish olive oil cloves garlic, minced teaspoons dried oregano

1. Mix olive oil, garlic, and oregano in a bowl with a wire whisk. Stir in vinegar, gradually beating to form an emulsion, and then season with salt and pepper. For best results, prepare 1 to 2 days in advance, and refrigerate.

MARY MAC’S TEA ROOM GEORGIA PECAN PIE Makes 1 (9-inch) pie Recipe courtesy Mary Mac’s Tea Room, Atlanta, Georgia

3 1⁄ 2 1 4

large eggs cup sugar cup light corn syrup tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Pinch of salt 1 cup chopped pecans 1 (9-inch) piecrust, unbaked 1. Preheat oven to 350°. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the eggs at medium speed just until the yellow disappears. Add the sugar, corn syrup, butter, vanilla, salt, and pecans. Pour mixture into the piecrust. 3. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes.

Share Your FAVORITE! Connect with us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram to share your local favorites.

ARNAUD’S TROUT AMANDINE Makes 6 servings Recipe courtesy Arnaud’s, New Orleans, Louisiana

1 cup unsalted butter, divided 1 cup sliced almonds Juice of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley Salt and pepper, to taste 11⁄ 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt 1⁄ 2 teaspoon ground black pepper Vegetable oil, for frying 6 skinless speckled trout fillets, about 8 ounces each Garnish: finely chopped fresh dill, thin slices of lemon 1. In a small skillet, melt 1⁄2 cup butter over medium-low heat. Add the almonds, and stir gently until they are golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the almonds from the pan with a slotted spoon, place in a bowl, and set aside.

2. Add the remaining 1⁄2 cup butter to the same skillet. Once the butter has melted, stir in the lemon juice and parsley. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. 3. Place the flour in a large bowl, and season generously with salt and pepper. Heat oil to 350° in a deep, heavy saucepan. Dredge two of the fillets in the seasoned flour, coating both sides. Shake off the excess flour, and gently lower the fillets into the hot oil. When the first two fillets are golden brown, transfer to a towellined baking sheet to drain and keep warm while you fry the remaining fillets. (Do not dredge the fillets until just before frying.) 4. Return the lemon-butter sauce to medium-high heat, and stir for a minute or two, until piping hot. Place each fillet on a hot plate, and scatter generously with almonds. Drizzle with some of the lemonbutter sauce, and serve all at once. Garnish with dill and lemon slices, if desired.

RETURN j SPLENDOR The gloriousrenaissance of hotel dining BY

GINNY HEARD

Clockwise from top left: The Valentine Dining Room at Lemaire Restaurant at The Jefferson Hotel in Richmond, Virginia • Capital Bar & Grill at The Capital Hotel in Little Rock, Arkansas • The façade of the Capital Hotel • Honey Pork Loin Chop at Lemaire Restaurant • Madison’s at Old Edwards Spa and Inn in Highlands, North Carolina • The Fountain Lounge at The Roosevelt New Orleans

he last time I stayed in a hotel, my dining experience could be summed up in one word: lackluster. It was a do it yourself” breakfast bar, populated by pre-packaged pastries, single-serving cereals, and forlorn fruit. I had to get my own orange juice from a soda fountain, and as it fizzed and popped everywhere but into my cup, my mind wandered to visions of hotel dining’s past—the opulence, the sumptuousness, the waiters in tuxedoes who took their jobs quite seriously. How did hotel dining go from silver-plated wonders to what was before me? Fine dining became one of the amenities gradually abandoned by the hotel industry after World War II, when air and road travel exploded and brought the need for quick-stop lodging for sight-seeing vacationers. Motels, or motor hotels, were born, and travelers were happy to give up dining and other services for the cheaper, fast-paced experience. Fast food and chains sprouted up as afordable dining on the road, and many hotels were forced to cut costs to compete. Grand dining rooms became little more than special-occasion eateries; the art and luxury of hotel dining was lost. tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

58

But a new wind is blowing in the hotel dining world—a

with a casual air, and guests couldn’t be happier. When they first

resurgence of excellence in food, style, and service. These

opened in 1895, the current restaurant area was where ladies

days our lives are so busy that we have started again to look

would stop to have tea and revive from their journey while the

at vacations as luxury—times to slow down and splurge.

gentlemen checked into the hotel. It evolved into the dining

Thankfully, the South, in all its hospitable glory, boasts a

room over the years, but in 2009, finding they had become a

number of hotels that are putting dining at the forefront—

special-occasion-only restaurant, Lemaire’s owners decided

and that number is growing. Think of the classic Southern

to rethink the concept. They renovated, put in an 18-seat

grand dames: The Grove Park Inn in Asheville, North Carolina,

bar, and updated the menu to reflect Richmond’s impressive

the Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, the

dining scene. Utilizing as much as possible from local farmers

Hermitage in Nashville, Tennessee—hotels that place an

and purveyors, Chef Patrick Willis works to honor quality

enormous emphasis on service and luxury. Along with these

ingredients with clean flavors and technique. Since this change,

luxury icons, many boutique hotels have become serious

Lemaire has not only become popular with hotel guests, but also

about their dining. There’s a commonality among these spots

with locals, who use the restaurant as a gathering spot. General

that diferentiates them from their forebears, however. They

Manager and Wine Director, Greg McGhee, sees this as a result

have found a way to combine opulence with a more casual

of an urbanizing trend. “People used to get married or have kids

atmosphere. A compromise has been struck—on the one hand,

and move out to the suburbs,” he says. “Lately, that age bracket

they ofer talented chefs, impressive menus, and impeccable

is moving back into the cities instead, and they are looking to

service, and on the other, guests are not limited by dress code

dining for entertainment.” Now, he says, he sees a large range

and are ofered multiple dining options.

of ages filling up Lemaire’s tables, and they seem to enjoy the

At The Capital Hotel in Little Rock, Arkansas, guests can choose from One Eleven, the upscale, refashioned dining

more casual atmosphere of the restaurant. Madison’s Restaurant at Old Edwards Inn and Spa in

room helmed by James Beard award-winning Chef Joël

Highlands, North Carolina, takes this comfort-forward

Antunes, or the more casual but well-loved Capital Bar &

approach as well. “We call the dress code mountain casual,”

Grill, where guests can mingle with the city’s politicians and

says Marjorie Christiansen, the hotel’s spokesperson. “You

businessmen who gather there regularly. “Rules are made at

won’t often see tuxes, but the dining is still elegant.” The

the Statehouse; laws are made at the Capital Bar,” or so the

dining room itself is dressed down, as well—no white linen

saying goes. Both of The Capital Hotel’s oferings source their

tablecloths. Their upscale menu with a Southern fl are has

food as locally as possible, and each spot focuses on quality,

gained quite a reputation, and guests come to visit simply for

featuring house-made menu items.

the meals. “I think there’s a passion in travel these days for

Lemaire, the fine dining restaurant at The Jeferson Hotel in Richmond, Virginia, has learned to balance an upscale menu

59

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

april 2016

trying the foods of diferent regions,” says Marjorie. “People want to know the types of food that represent a place.”

Clockwise from top left: Keswick Hall and Golf Club in Charlottesville, Virginia • Elegant and casual fare at Lemaire Restaurant at The Jefferson Hotel • Mountain casual dining at Madison’s at Old Edwards Inn and Spa.

Clockwise from top left: An opulent guest room at Keswick Hall • Manhattan cocktail at The Fountain Lounge • Dinner with a view at Keswick Hall's Fossett restaurant • Guilded entry at The Fountain Lounge • The garden and glorious grounds at Keswick Hall

Nowhere is this more true than in an iconic food city like New Orleans. Here, The Fountain Lounge at The Roosevelt Hotel New Orleans (owned and operated by the legendary purveyors of luxury at the Waldorf-Astoria) highlights the in-demand cuisine of the Crescent City, but with a modern twist. Outfitted in red and gold, The Fountain Lounge is a peek into the lavishness of old. “We have a passion for keeping the unique traditions of the city alive, while also integrating some creativity,” says Director of Food and Beverage, Avi Phookan. “We have been able to capture the culinary attention of visitors and locals alike by taking New Orleans’ signature cuisine and incorporating our own spin.” Indeed, their fresh take on the classics reflects the new dedication to food in the hotel industry—serving dishes you’ve come to know but at a level of quality you weren’t expecting. This resurgence comes at a time when people are embracing classic Southern foodways, the farm-to-table movement, and seasonal eating. How perfect this movement is for the South, then, with its abundant land and long growing season. Some hotels even have their own gardens for their kitchens to pull from. Keswick Hall in Charlottesville, Virginia, keeps a large chef’s garden in addition to gathering produce from local farmers. Their main restaurant, Fossett’s, is named after Edith Fossett, one of the fi rst African-American women recognized as a chef. She was trained by a French chef, which was unheard of at the time, and worked in Thomas Jeferson’s kitchen. It was important to Keswick Hall that the strength of the area’s culinary history was reflected in the quality of and attention to the food they serve. While many are drawn to their golf courses, others are drawn to their food and the luxury the hotel provides. “I think people are making an efort to better enjoy their leisure time,” says Bryan Bousquet, Director of Food and Beverage at Keswick Hall. “A couple of years ago things were more fast-paced. I think we’re coming back around to something that’s almost been forgotten—the art of service, and the art of dining.” These days, people are taking their time at dinner—putting away their cell phones and enjoying the company they’re with. This relaxed enjoyment seems to be the new luxury; where coattails and velvet curtains once had a place, now stand hyper-local cuisine and a comfortable atmosphere. Fine dining is becoming more than a hotel amenity—now almost a necessity, expected by patrons looking for the leisurely escape they desire. People are asking where they can once again fi nd those almost-forgotten arts. And Southern hospitality, as always, is there to answer. tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

62

Welcome-Home

r e o s les s a c Ready for some home cooking after your vacation? These quick dishes come together in a snap.

WILLIAM DICKEY MELISSA GRAY BY BETH K. SEELEY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY PHOTO STYLING

COUNTRY CAPTAIN CASSEROLE Makes 6 to 8 servings

Sweet golden raisins and crunchy sliced almonds add texture and flavor to this Lowcountry classic. 1 2 1⁄ 2 1⁄ 2 1 1

tablespoon vegetable oil carrots, chopped medium yellow onion, diced green bell pepper, sliced clove garlic, minced (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, undrained 1⁄ 2 cup golden raisins 1⁄ 2 cup unsalted chicken broth 11⁄ 2 teaspoons salt 11⁄ 2 teaspoons ground ginger 11⁄ 2 teaspoons curry powder 1⁄ 2 teaspoon ground cardamom 1⁄ 2 teaspoon ground black pepper 2 cups shredded cooked chicken 2 cups cooked rice 1 cup sliced almonds Garnish: chopped green onion 1. Preheat oven to 350°. 2. In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add carrot, onion, bell pepper, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionaly, until onion softens, about 5 minutes. Add tomato, raisins, broth, salt, ginger, curry, cardamom, and pepper. Bring to a boil; remove from heat. Stir in chicken and rice. Sprinkle almonds over casserole. 3. Bake until almonds are golden brown, about 30 minutes. Garnish with green onion, if desired.

In centuries past, the spice trade brought exotic flavors to Southern port cities, leading to this classic Lowcountry dish.

SAUSAGE AND GRITS Makes 4 to 6 servings

Sausage adds smoky favor to this creamy casserole. 1⁄ 2

pound smoked sausage, sliced 1⁄ 4 inch thick 31⁄ 2 cups water 1 cup instant grits 3⁄ 4 teaspoon salt 1⁄ 8 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 cup shredded extra-sharp white Cheddar cheese 1⁄ 2 cup heavy whipping cream 2 large eggs, lightly beaten Garnish: baby arugula, chopped fresh chives, shaved Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray an 8x8inch baking dish with cooking spray. 2. In a medium saucepan, cook sausage over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 4 minutes. Remove sausage from pan, and let drain on paper towels. Wipe pan clean. 3. In same saucepan, bring 31⁄2 cups water to a boil. Gradually stir in grits, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in Cheddar until smooth. Remove from heat. Whisk in cream and eggs. Pour grits mixture into prepared dish. Sprinkle sausage over top. 4. Bake until set, about 45 minutes. Remove from oven, and let cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Garnish with arugula, chives, and Parmesan, if desired.

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

64

CHICKEN AND DRESSING CASSEROLE Makes 4 to 6 servings

Asparagus adds spring flavor to one of our favorite casseroles. 6

cups cubed cornbread (about 2-inch cubes) 3 cups shredded cooked chicken 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 11⁄2 cups frozen vegetable seasoning blend (celery, bell pepper, onion, and parsley) 1⁄4 cup thinly sliced leeks 1⁄4 cup all-purpose flour 21⁄2 cups chicken broth 1 teaspoon poultry seasoning 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1⁄2 teaspoon ground black pepper 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 1 (1-pound) bunch fresh asparagus, blanched and cut into 2-inch pieces (see tip) Garnish: fresh thyme

SHRIMP AND RICE CASSEROLE

1

Makes 6 to 8 servings

1

Serve this comforting dish with slices of buttery garlic bread. 4 1

slices bacon, chopped cup smoked sausage, sliced 1⁄4 inch thick 1 cup diced yellow onion 1⁄2 cup diced green bell pepper 3 cloves garlic, minced 11⁄2 cups long-grain rice 1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, undrained 21⁄2 cups water 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon Creole seasoning 1⁄4 teaspoon ground black pepper

65

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

pound medium fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined (8-ounce) package sugar snap peas, chopped and blanched (see tip)

1. In a deep 12-inch cast-iron skillet, cook bacon and sausage over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 10 minutes. 2. Add onion, bell pepper, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 6 minutes. Stir in rice; cook for 1 minute. Add tomato sauce, tomato, 21⁄2 cups water, flour, salt, Creole seasoning, and pepper, stirring until combined. 3. Add shrimp to pan; bring to a boil, and reduce heat to low. Cook, stirring frequently, until rice is tender and shrimp are cooked through, about 40 minutes. Stir in peas. Serve immediately.

april 2016

1. Preheat oven to 375°. Spray a 21⁄2-quart baking dish with cooking spray. 2. In a large bowl, combine cornbread and chicken. Set aside. 3. In a large deep skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add seasoning blend and leek; cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid is evaporated and vegetables are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with flour; whisk in broth, poultry seasoning, salt, thyme, and pepper. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer until thickened, whisking frequently, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat; let cool for 10 minutes. Add eggs, asparagus, and broth mixture to chicken mixture; stir gently to combine. Spoon mixture into prepared dish. 4. Bake, covered, for 25 minutes. Uncover, and bake until set and heated through, about 15 minutes. Garnish with thyme, if desired.

itchen TIP To blanch peas and asparagus, bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add peas or aspargus to pan; cook 2 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water until no longer warm.

ta s t e o f t r a d i t i o n

FIVE WAYS WITH

Easter ham Beauty queen of the Southern table

1

WILLIAM DICKEY KATHLEEN KANEN BY BETH K. SEELEY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY PHOTO STYLING

W

hile Christmas Eve may bring visions of

pigs were slaughtered in the cooler weather of the fall for

sugarplums, come Easter, the image dancing

practical reasons. At the time, there was no refrigeration,

in most Southerners’ subconscious appetites

and the meat that wasn’t consumed during the winter

is that of a golden, glossy ham, scored, glazed, and studded

months before Lent was cured in order to last until

with golden rings of caramelized pineapple. Behold the

spring. The curing process took time, and the first hams

beauty of this sweet and savory showstopper, the worthy

would be ready by Easter. So, as spring began warming

result of a slow and steady commitment to one glorious

the land, cured hams were still hanging in most larders.

cut of pork. Few things welcome a scattered family to the

With the promise of an upcoming season of plenty,

table like the sight and smell of an Easter ham, at once

folks could feel good about celebrating with a lavish

humble and elegant in its utter simplicity.

holiday meal. And with as much food as a large ham

While the tradition of serving ham at Easter has been

generously provided, many mouths could be fed in one fell

attributed to a number of historical connections, such as

swoop. This tradition held stronger in the South, however,

a diference between Christian and Jewish theology and

as northern regions grew more industrial and the South

a harkening back to ancient beliefs that pigs brought luck,

maintained its more agricultural disposition.

let’s simplify the equation: ham was there.

To many these days, ham is the natural star of the Easter

Many of our food traditions come from what was

meal, a taste memory always expected at the table. And as

available, like oranges at Christmas or watermelon on

more farmers and chefs across the South revisit historic

the Fourth of July. Hams, from pigs harvested in the fall,

foodways in an efort to provide higher-quality products, it

were on the springtime culinary deck before fresh meats

can only mean one thing: that glorious hams will continue

were available. In the early days of American history,

to grace Southern Easter tables for years to come.

SPICY PINEAPPLE GLAZED HAM Makes 10 to 12 servings

Sriracha and pineapple combine to give this ham a wonderful sweet and spicy flavor. 1 1

cup water (10- to 11-pound) bone-in smoked ham (shank portion) 1 (20-ounce) can sliced pineapple in juice, undrained 1 cup pineapple preserves 2 tablespoons stone-ground mustard 11⁄2 tablespoons Sriracha sauce Garnish: fresh parsley, fresh celery leaves

1. Preheat oven to 325°. Line a roasting pan with foil; spray with cooking spray. Pour 1 cup water in pan. Using a sharp knife, lightly score outside of ham. Place ham in prepared pan. 2. Drain pineapple, reserving juice. In a medium bowl, whisk together reserved juice, pineapple preserves, mustard, and Sriracha. Brush ham with preserves mixture. Place pineapple slices on ham, securing with wooden picks; trim ends of picks, if necessary. Loosely cover with foil. 3. Bake ham 1 hour. Uncover, and bake until a meat thermometer registers 160°, about 11⁄2 hours more, brushing with pineapple

mixture occasionally. (Loosely cover with foil to prevent excess browning, if needed.) Place ham on a serving platter. Garnish with parsley and celery leaves, if desired.

itchen TIP To score a ham, make shallow diamond shaped cuts across the surface. This helps the outer layer of fat on the ham crisp up in the oven.

BROWN SUGAR GLAZED HAM Makes 10 to 12 servings

Brown sugar gives this ham a beautiful golden-brown crust. 11⁄ 4 cups water, divided 1 (10- to 11-pound) bone-in smoked ham (shank portion)

2⁄ 3

cup firmly packed light brown sugar 2⁄ 3 cup cane syrup 1⁄ 3 cup distilled white vinegar 2 teaspoons smoked paprika 1⁄ 4 teaspoon kosher salt Garnish: green and red grapes Spicy Cheddar Biscuits (recipe follows) 1. Preheat oven to 325°. Line a roasting pan with foil; spray with cooking spray. Pour 1 cup water in pan. Using a sharp knife, lightly score outside of ham. Place ham in prepared pan; loosely cover

with foil. Bake ham 1 hour. 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together remaining 1⁄4 cup water, brown sugar, cane syrup, vinegar, paprika, and salt. 3. Uncover ham, and brush with brown sugar mixture. Bake, loosely covered, until a meat thermometer registers 160°, about 11⁄2 hours more, brushing with brown sugar mixture occasionally. (Add additional water to pan, and loosely cover with foil to prevent excess browning, if needed.) Place ham on a serving platter. Garnish with grapes, and serve with Spicy Cheddar Biscuits, if desired.

2

3

SPICY CHEDDAR BISCUITS WITH HAM Makes 8 to 10 biscuits

Honey adds the perfect amount of sweetness to these cheesy ham biscuits. 2 1 1⁄ 2 1⁄ 2 1⁄ 2 2⁄ 3

cups all-purpose flour tablespoon baking powder teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground red pepper cup cold unsalted butter, cubed cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese 1 cup whole buttermilk, divided Melted butter, sliced ham, and honey, to serve 1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. In the work bowl of a food processor, combine flour, baking powder, salt, and red pepper; pulse until combined. Add butter; pulse until butter is cut into small, pea-size pieces, 4 to 5 times. Add cheese and 3⁄4 cup buttermilk; pulse just until dry ingredients are moistened. Gradually add remaining 1⁄4 cup buttermilk, if needed. 3. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface; gently knead 3 times. Roll dough 1⁄2 inch thick. Fold dough in half. Using a 21⁄2 inch cutter dipped in flour, cut dough, without twisting cutter, rerolling scraps once. Place 1 inch apart on prepared pan. 4. Bake until lightly browned, about 12 minutes. Brush with melted butter. Split biscuits; serve with ham and honey, if desired.

4 3 6 1⁄ 2 1⁄ 2 1⁄ 2 4 1 1 2 1⁄ 2

HAM AND ASPARAGUS CASSEROLE Makes about 6 servings

Enrobed in creamy cheese sauce, this casserole is the ultimate comfort food. 8 1⁄ 2 3 2

cups water pound cavatappi pasta teaspoons plus 1⁄ 4 teaspoon kosher salt, divided cups chopped fresh asparagus

1⁄ 4 1⁄ 3

cups chopped cooked ham tablespoons unsalted butter cup chopped yellow onion cup chopped carrot cup all-purpose flour cups whole milk cup shredded fontina cheese tablespoon chopped fresh thyme teaspoons coarse-ground Dijon mustard teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon ground black pepper cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 21⁄2-quart baking dish with cooking spray. 2. In a small Dutch oven, bring 8 cups water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add pasta and 1 teaspoon salt; cook 7 minutes. Add asparagus; cook

1 minute. Drain; place in prepared dish. Top with ham. 3. In same Dutch oven, melt butter over medium-high heat; reserve 2 tablespoons melted butter. Add onion and carrot; cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle flour over onion mixture; cook, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Whisk in milk; cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until thickened and bubbly, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in cheese, thyme, mustard, garlic powder, pepper, and 2 teaspoons salt. Pour cheese sauce over pasta mixture. 4. In a small bowl, stir together bread crumbs, reserved 2 tablespoons melted butter, and remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon salt. Sprinkle over pasta mixture. 5. Bake until lightly browned and bubbly, about 22 minutes.

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

70

5

DEVILED HAM Makes about 3 cups

A great way to use up leftover ham, this spread is delicious served with mustard and pickles. 4 cups finely chopped cooked ham 1 cup mayonnaise 1⁄ 3 cup chopped green onion 3 tablespoons stone-ground mustard 11⁄ 2 teaspoons hot sauce 1⁄ 2 teaspoon garlic powder 1⁄ 4 teaspoon crushed red pepper Multigrain bread, stone-ground mustard, pickles, and ground black pepper, to serve 1. In a large bowl, stir together ham, mayonnaise, green onion, mustard, hot sauce, garlic powder, and red pepper. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 2 days. Serve with bread, mustard, pickles, and pepper, if desired.

71

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

april 2016

83

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

april 2016

S

, S H T OU

T S E B

a d S tains u o F BY

GINNY HEARD

Photo courtesy Adam White

O

nce treating almost every Southern town to frosty concoctions, soda fountains are harder to Ƃnd these days. But a dedicated handful of purveyors has carefully maintained the classic style, food, service, and, in some cases, even the prices over the years to carry on a bit of history and help revive the nostalgia of the classic soda fountains and the artistry of the soda jerk. Here are a few of our favorite spots around the South to sip and spin.

Connect with us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram to share your local favorites.

Photo courtesy The Pickwick

Share Your FAVORITE!

Old Town Slidell Soda Shop

JACKSON, MISSISSIPPI Brent’s Drugs opened in 1946 in the rst shopping center in Mississippi. The soda fountain was originally just a side note to the pharmacy—while you were waiting for your prescription to be lled, you could whet your whistle with a milkshake or soda. Since owner Brad Reeves acquired the store in 2009, its days as a pharmacy have come to an end, but the soda fountain has become so much more—a community gathering place with a deep sense of history. Brad’s refurbishments included extra seating, counter space, and a kitchen area, but maintained its retro personality. With the addition of a speakeasy-style cocktail bar, Apothecary, in the old pharmacy area, this spot has become an exciting part of Jackson’s Fondren neighborhood. 655 Duling Ave.

601.366.3427

301 Cousin St.

985.649.4806 slidellsodashop.com

S. Chapman

Brent’s Drugs

Though it closed in 2005 after damage from Hurricane Katrina, Old Town Slidell was reopened in August 2012. (The side of the building still bears drawings that indicate the water line from the storm.) They serve everything from banana splits to egg salad sandwiches here, but you can also nd Louisiana , classics like muffulettas and po boys on the menu.

Photo courtes y Gar y

Photo courtesy Adam White

SLIDELL, LOUISIANA

brentsdrugs.com

The Pickwick Pharmacy & Soda Fountain

Chapman Drug Company

GREENVILLE, SOUTH CAROLINA

A family of pharmacists has operated Chapman Drug Company since 1921, with fourth generation owner Derek Chapman now running the show. While the soda fountain has been around since the beginning, it changed with the times until 10 years ago, when the Chapmans restored the original look, complete with Georgia marble countertops. Derek’s classic menu and nostalgic prices have made this place a large part of the community, lling it with folks ordering malts, milkshakes, limeades, lime sours, and glassbottled sodas. With the old-fashioned menu, prices, and especially service, it’s hard to stay away for long.

Endear yourself to the Greenville, South Carolina, locals by inviting them to meet you at the Pickwick—a community stalwart that has been in operation since 1933. Owner Kelly Odom’s great grandfather took the original sandwich shop and added a pharmacy, which became a larger part of the business. The soda fountain side closed in 1964, but the current generation of owners reopened it and now reproduces the classics that started the community’s love for the place—old-fashioned malts, ice cream, freshsqueezed limeades, and pimiento cheese sandwiches.

HAPEVILLE, GEORGIA

615 N. Central Ave. 3219 Augusta St.

404.761.1136

864.277.4180

chapmandrug.com

thepickwick.net tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

86

Photo courtesy Mahlon Yeager Photo + Film

Pitt Street Pharmacy

Photo courtesy Don Trowbridge

MT. PLEASANT, SOUTH CAROLINA

Trowbridge’s Ice Cream Bar

Pitt Street Pharmacy has been in operation since 1937, and in its current location since 1952, when it gained its traditional 1950s-style soda fountain. Current owner Kim Richardson’s goal is to keep the soda fountain just the way it was—in fact, when he bought the business in 1996, long-time customers told him that if he changed a thing, they would run him out of town! While the customers here chow down on everything from egg salad to burgers, Pitt Street’s real claim to fame is its grilled cheese sandwich—or at least the eating contests it inspires. The current record holds at an impressive 27 grilled cheese sandwiches. It’s a good thing this soda fountain still has a pharmacy attached—the record-holder no doubt needed an antacid afterward!

FLORENCE, ALABAMA Filled with classic style and signage, Trowbridge’s Ice Cream Bar is an exciting place to walk into— and not just because you’re drawn in by the sweet smell of ice cream. With seafoam green upholstery and antique Coca-Cola signs, this place is lled with character. These nice folks serve up ice cream, milkshakes, sandwiches, and more, including a few local favorites, like orange-pineapple ice cream, and their banana sandwich—classically served with mayo, but recently offered with peanut butter as well.

111 Pitt St.

316 N. Court St.

843.884.4051

256.764.1503

pittstreetpharmacy.com

Elliston Place Soda Shop

Photo courtesy Cryst al Hogg

NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE Going strong since 1939, Elliston Place is the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Nashville. In its early days, the owners built a wall to separate the drug store and soda fountain sides of the business. The drug store operated until 1965, but the soda fountain carried on—with the same style and décor maintained today. While they serve up big country breakfasts and meat-and-three options for lunch, they’re still known for the classics: milkshakes, banana splits, and homemade pies. This iconic Nashville spot has seen some famous faces, from country music stars to politicians and is one of the most photographed spots in the city. 2111 Ellison Pl.

615.327.1090 ellistonplacesodashop.com

Photo courtesy Woolworth Walk

ADD Drug Store

Palace Drug

Woolworth Walk

ATHENS, GEORGIA

MAMMOTH SPRING, ARKANSAS

ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA

This traditional lunch counter is very popular with the community and has become an important social spot for the town. Locals, and especially kids, love to clamber up on the 16 bar stools at the counter, where they have their short-order menu items made right in front of them. Owner Kevin Florence has kept the atmosphere old fashioned and the prices low, and that seems to be exactly what his customers want. While they serve up many burgers, hot dogs, and egg salad sandwiches, try the pimiento cheeseburger— you won’t be sorry!

Palace Drug is located at the head of one of the largest natural springs in the world, and since they opened in 1882, their soda fountain has been satisfying the appetites of pharmacy customers and tourists alike. The owners have maintained a nostalgic atmosphere with bar stools and a classic tufted counter. And while their fresh salads and tasty sandwiches may make you think bistro more than lunch counter, a few scoops of their locally made ice cream in an old-fashioned shake, malt, or sundae lets you know that they’re aware some classics should stay the same.

Located in the historic F. W. Woolworth building in downtown Asheville, the soda fountain at Woolworth Walk harkens back to its glory days with 1950s air and many original menu items, like egg crèmes and malted shakes. Rebuilt to resemble the building’s original luncheonette, the soda fountain welcomes customers with a long bar dotted with spinning stools. The building itself is now host to an art gallery featuring more than 100 local artists.

1695 S. Lumpkin St.

270 Main St.

706.548.2239

870.625.3222

add-drugstore.com

palacedrug.com

25 Haywood St.

828.254.9210 woolworthwalk.com

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

88

Photos courtesy Long Creative

Pop’s Ice Cream & Soda Bar

Griffith & Feil Drug Store and Soda Fountain KENOVA, WEST VIRGINIA

ROANOKE, VIRGINIA While Pop’s has only been around since 2006, all of their machinery and signs are antiques from soda fountains around the country. Here, they make their own sodas with homemade syrup extracts and source their ice cream from a local dairy. Their extensive soda shop menu lists all kinds of soda and ice cream combinations, from the classic to the very unusual, to the make-your-own combo. The owners, husband-andwife team Brandon Davis and Anna Robertson, work to bring back the nostalgic feel of the soda fountain era and encourage customers to turn off cell phones and enjoy each other’s company. Brandon says it’s a nice lifestyle—you get to deal with a lot of happy people when you’re serving milkshakes and oats!

This small, independent pharmacy is the oldest continuously running business in Kenova, and when it started operations in 1892 it included a soda fountain—until current owner Ric Grifth’s father decided it wasn’t worth his time and took the counter out. When Ric took over the pharmacy’s operation, he wanted the old-fashioned feel of the place back, and he brought that counter right back in. Because he used true antique pieces, this was not an easy task—they had to take the front window out just to get the large soda fountain counter in the building. Their extensive menu includes handmade sodas, milkshakes, and much more. And while Ric and his father good-naturedly rib each other about who ran the business better, Ric says his dad sure does seem happy sitting at that counter with a frosty treat in hand. 1405 Chestnut St.

1916 Memorial Ave. S.W.

304.453.2381

540.345.2129

gfdrug.com

89

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

april 2016

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

FROM PLANTATION DINING ROOMS AND BACKYARD SMOKEHOUSES TO CAJUN CRAWFISH BOILS AND FINE CREOLE DINING,

FOOD IS A PASSION IN LOUISIANA. MORNING CAFÉ AU LAIT PAIRED WITH FLUFFY, SUGARED BEIGNETS MAKE WAY FOR SIMMERING DARK ROUX AND THE SIZZLE OF THE HOLY TRINITY OF ONION, CELERY AND BELL PEPPER. L ouisiana T ravel.com /C ulinary

PRAIRIE HOME COOKING A TRIP TO LOUISIANA'S PRAIRIE COUNTRY GIVES VISITORS A UNIQUE PERSPECTIVE ON CAJUN CUISINE. WITH ITS MOM AND POP SHOPS AND QUAINT, HISTORIC DOWNTOWNS, THERE'S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE ON THE PRAIRIE HOME COOKING TRAIL.

CAJUN FRENCH MEETS COUNTRY-WESTERN For hundreds of years west-central Louisiana has been home to a diverse variety of cultures that are relected in its unique cuisine. Beginning with the earliest American Indian residents and continuing with French, Spanish and German settlers, each has brought something special to the heartwarming dishes of the region. Rich in heritage and brimming with down-home hospitality, the Prairie Home Cooking Culinary Trail is home to ic C jun products such as Tony Chachere’s Famous Creole C sine, ne Targil Seasoning & Butcher Supplies, Savoie’s C n Food Products and LouAna cooking oils. Additionally, you’ll ind countless mom-aandpop shops turning out savory pork and ricee boudin sausage, crispy fried cracklins, Cajun sweet dough pies, seafood pistolettes and crat beers.

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

C H E F C HAT

Nancy Brewer | The Kitchen Shop, Grand Coteau What are the quintessential dishes of the Prairie Home Cooking Trail? Because I’m a pastry chef I’d say sweet potato sweet dough pie, of course. Ruby’s in Eunice is a great spot for plate lunches. They have a dish resembling a large sausage roast called ponce, which is something you won’t be able to ind outside this part of the world.

What’s a must-do cultural experience on the Prairie Home Cooking Trail? In Grand Coteau, visitors can tour the Academy of the Sacred Heart and the Jesuit Spirituality Center. Many people go for the religious aspect, but it’s also a great draw for anyone interested in the Civil War, architecture or even gardening.

CRAFT BEER In an old rail car situated along the banks of Bayou Teche in Port Barre, Louisiana, lies Bayou Teche Brewery. Brewmaster Karlos Knott, who spent six years in West Germany, started the brewery with the goal of crating a beer that would complement the area’s Cajun and Creole cuisine. Today, Bayou Teche Brewery produces nine brews ranging in intensity from mild pale ales such as the LA-31 Bière Pâle to the smoky LA-31 Boucanée, which pairs well with chicken and sausage gumbo, and the malty Acadie, which complements tasso and andouille sausage. Seasonal favorites such as the hops-heavy Cocodrie or the famous house-style Courir de Mardi Gras provide the perfect accompaniment to celebrations.

FOOD FESTIVALS JUNE 24 – 25

Smoked Meat Festival Ville Platte JUNE 23 – 25

Beauregard Watermelon Festival DeRidder JAN. 30, 2017

Gumbo Cook-Of Opelousas

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

BOUCHERIE AND COCHON DE LAIT Some of the most unique and legendary culinary traditions in the Prairie Home Cooking region revolve around the thrity Cajun use of the whole hog. During a Cajun cochon de lait (coo-SHAWN-duhLAY), neighbors and friends gather to “pass a good time” while roasting a whole suckling pig on an open, outdoor ire. he large amount of meat yielded, not to mention the time and efort that go into the cooking process, necessitate a large gathering of folks to eat, dance and celebrate. It’s not uncommon to see Cajun musicians charming the happy crowd while lucky children feast on fresh cracklins. he tradition is still celebrated at the Mansura Cochon de Lait Festival, held annually during the second weekend in May. Traditional Cajun boucherie (BOO-sure-EE) began as a collaborative efort between neighbors and friends to preserve every part of a hog in the days before refrigeration. Andouille, chaurice and countless other products are hastily prepared, and no cut is squandered. Today, you’ll ind these community events in rural parts of the Prairie Home Cooking Trail, as well as in pop-up demonstrations and feasts like those hosted by Lâche Pas Boucherie et Cuisine.

3

cant miss bites ’

A N D W H E R E TO G E T T H E M SWEET DOUGH P PIES ES The Kitchen Shop, Grand Coteau CAJUN GIRL PO-BOY Crawfish House and Grill, Opelousas BOUDIN AND CRACKLINS Bourque’s Superstore, Port Barre

LIVE MUSIC

D.I.’S CAJUN RESTAURANT

Basile FRED’S LOUNGE

Mamou LIBERTY CENTER FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS

Eunice

SEAFOOD SENSATION IN THE SOUTHWEST CORNER OF THE STATE, VISITORS WILL FIND BOUNTIFUL WATERWAYS, BREATHTAKING BAYOU SCENERY AND A WARM SENSE OF DOWN HOME HOSPITALITY. THE SEAFOOD SENSATION TRAIL IS PERFECT FOR A WEEKEND RIP. ROAD TR

WHERE FA ARMLAND MEETS THE GULF RICE Southwest Louisiana is also home to a thriving rice industry with more than 500,000 acres of prime rice-producing land. Crowley, nicknamed “The Rice Capital of America,” contains several rice mills that produce popular brands such as Cajun County Rice, Toro and Jackpot.

Situated in a bountiful stretch of the state where the lush farmland of the prairie region meets the fertile banks of countless waterways, the Seafood Sensation Trail is home to lakes, bayous and the Gulf of Mexico producing a foundation for the region’s famous cuisine. From roadside joints to ine dining restaurants, diners will ind chefs working with local products to create culinary masterpieces, as they’ve been doing for centuries. While winding along the Trail, take advantage of the area’s plentiful seafood oferings and plan according to the season. During the spring months, get your ill of spicy crawish either boiled, fried or in étoufée. Enjoy fresh shrimp year round and delicate crabmeat in the warm summer months. Oysters abound, and are perfect raw, grilled, baked or charbroiled.

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

C H E F C HAT

Lyle Broussard | Jack Daniel’s Bar & Grill at L’Auberge Casino, Lake Charles

What makes the food along the Seafood Sensation Trail different than other parts of the state? Food along the Seafood Sensation Trail is rustic and down-home. It’s always social and made to be shared. he sauces are more rustic and use colorful local ingredients. Raw ingredients really shine in our food.

What’s a must-do cultural experience on the Seafood Sensation Trail? An authentic experience would be crabbing. It’s family friendly, easy to do and requires no license or special skills. here are many great crabbing spots along the Creole Nature Trail. Not only is crabbing fun but you can celebrate your catch with a crab boil!

3

cant miss bites ’

A N D W H E R E TO G E T T H E M GOURMET HOT DOGS B Botsky’s, Lake Charles BOUDIN BALLS B&O Grocery, Sulphur SHRIMP AND CRAB GUMBO Seafood Palace, Lake Charles

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

LOCAL FLAVORS Boudin he Seafood Sensation Culinary

Bayou Rum With no shortage of quality

Trail is also home to world-class purveyors of the pork and rice sausage southwest Louisiana is famous for. Boudin shops are seemingly everywhere, and boudin masters in these parts are known to experiment with new twists on this classic Cajun staple.

sugar cane, the Seafood Sensation Trail is home to Louisiana Spirits, producers of Bayou Rum. he distillery is open daily for tours and samples in the tasting room round out the experience.

Oysters Along Bayou Vermilion, one of Abbeville’s famous oyster restaurants has been serving as a tourist destination for more than a century. Dupuy’s Oyster Shop was originally opened by Joseph Dupuy, who, in 1869, began harvesting oysters in nearby Diamond Reef and selling them for ive cents a dozen.

Shrimp Local shrimpers have long touted the sweet taste of white shrimp harvested in the Vermilion Bay area. he brackish waters of the bay, bayous and marshes create the perfect environment for shrimp to thrive. he delicate lavor and size of these shrimp make them perfect for gumbos, fettuccini, po’boys and more.

Crawfish Some of the most plentiful crawish ponds are located in southwest Louisiana. hese crustaceans are delicious inside savory pies, smothered on top of rice or stuffed inside a laky pistolette but nothing beats the lavor and fun of boiled crawish. During the spring months, crawish are plentiful and restaurants throughout the Seafood Sensation Trail offer platters of boiled crawish by the pound. Hawk’s in Rayne features world-renowned crawish, while Cajun Claws in Abbeville specializes in a perfect blend of spices. he average diner could start off eating two to ive pounds, while a native Cajun might order ten pounds!

FOOD FESTIVALS MAY 19 – 21

Starks Mayhaw Festival Starks JULY 15 – 17

Cajun French Music & Food Festival Lake Charles AUG. 25 – 28

Gueydan Duck Festival Gueydan

Pick 6 $29.98

*

for

*Offer for U.S. only. Price includes Shipping & Handling. Single issues $7.50.

hoffmanmediastore.com/pick6 THHANKSGIVING TH Menu Planner Turkey & Gravy F Family-Style Sides Decadent Desserts

aUtHeNtIcAlLy sOuThErN aLwAyS DeLiCiOuS

and more!

k v

FAMILY FAVORITES

CLASSIC REINVENTED:

5 WAYS

Jul/Aug 2014

Sept/Oct 2014

W Sweet Potato Casserole

November 2014

authentically southern, always delicious

PUMPKIN SPICE

SKILLET COOK

E page 53

44

EASY FALL RECIPES

Jan/Feb 2014

authentically southern, always delicious

FAMILY FAVOR TES

APPLE CIDER BR

k

Mar/Apr 2014

May/Jun 2014

authentically southern, always delicious

authentically southern, always delicious NED TURKEY page

29

ISSUE

57

56 C

FESTIVE RECIPES

RECIPES & IDEAS

Classic Cl

FaLl FlAvOrS HeIrLoOm

Cider Spice C

5

e CANDIED APPLE PEAR BUNDT CAKE page 42

May/Jun 2015

Jul/Aug 2015

Sept/Oct 2015

November 2015

Cake

■ Jul/Aug 2014 ■ Sep/Oct 2014 ■ November 2014 ■ December 2014 ■ Jan/Feb 2015 ■ Mar/Apr 2015

■ May/Jun 2015 ■ Jul/Aug 2015 ■ Sep/Oct 2015 ■ November 2015 ■ December 2015 ■ Jan/Feb 2016

Total Qty. _____ Amt. Due ________

December 2015

______________________________________ Name ______________________________________ Address ______________________________________ City/State/Zip ______________________________________ Phone ______________________________________ E-mail

AL residents add applicable sales tax.

Return completed form to: Taste of the South Back Issues P.O. Box 6302 Harlan, IA 51593 TOSBCK16B

-

page 38

Issue

Southern sweet rolls

page 33

pa e 77

Buy More & Save 33% BEST DEAL! Send me 6 issues for only $29.98.

OAT BARS

WAYS WITH

Hummingbird

Classic SIDES & DESSERTS

STRAWBE RRY

The Annual

PAYMENT ■ Check (Payable to Hoffman Media) ■ Visa ■ MC ■ AmEx ■ Discover ______________________________________ Card # Exp. Date ______________________________________ Signature

Jan/Feb 2016

healthier

helpings

A lighter spin on the South’s favorite crispy fish PHOTOGRAPHY BY

CAROLINE SMITH /

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY

KATHLEEN KANEN

Spring IS A WONDERFUL TIME TO BE A

supper plate. Our oven-fried recipe uses a smart amount

SOUTHERNER. After the hearty comfort food of winter,

of oil and butter to achieve that cravable crunch, while

it’s nice to treat yourself to weeknight suppers with light

preserving the flavor of the fish. Paired with a super-

and bright flavors. While it’s hard to beat classic fried

simple spring side and a slice of gently lightened carrot

catfish, all that oil can overwhelm the flavors on your

cake, this is a wholesome meal you can feel good about.

OVEN-FRIED CATFISH Makes 4 servings Tender and moist with a crunchy crust of bread crumbs and cheese, this catfish will impress even the pickiest of eaters.

3 2 2 1⁄ 4 1⁄ 8 4 3⁄ 4 1

tablespoons canola oil tablespoons light mayonnaise teaspoons Dijon mustard teaspoon salt teaspoon ground black pepper (6-ounce) catfish fillets cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs) tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese 1⁄ 4 teaspoon paprika 1⁄ 4 teaspoon onion powder 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted Lemon wedges, for serving 1. Preheat oven to 425°. 2. Pour oil into a large rimmed baking sheet, swirling to coat. Place in oven until very hot, about 4 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, mustard, salt, and pepper; spray 1 side of fish with cooking spray. Turn fish over; brush with mayonnaise mixture. In another small bowl, combine bread crumbs, cheese, paprika, and onion powder. Sprinkle over top of fish, pressing gently. Carefully place fillets on hot oil. Drizzle fish with butter. 4. Bake until crumb topping is golden brown and fish flakes easily when tested with a fork, about 17 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges.

ASPARAGUS WITH GARLIC AND THYME Makes 4 servings Garlic and fresh herbs add a punch of flavor to this spring side.

2 2 4 1⁄ 2 1⁄ 4 1 1 1

tablespoons canola oil cloves garlic, sliced cups chopped fresh asparagus teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground black pepper tablespoon chopped fresh thyme tablespoon chopped fresh parsley tablespoon red wine vinegar

1. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic; cook until lightly browned, about 30 seconds. Remove from skillet with a slotted spoon, and set aside. 2. Add asparagus to skillet; cook until lightly browned and tender, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in salt, pepper, thyme, parsley, vinegar, and garlic.

HEALTHIER CARROT CAKE Makes 1 (9-inch) cake Topped with cream cheese icing, this gently lightened cake is rich with flavor.

1

1⁄ 2

1 1⁄ 2 3⁄ 4 11⁄ 2 1 11⁄ 2 1⁄ 4 1⁄ 4 1⁄ 4 1⁄ 4 2 1⁄ 3

(8-ounce) can crushed pineapple in juice, drained and juice reserved cup golden raisins cup all-purpose flour cup whole wheat flour cup firmly packed dark brown sugar teaspoons baking powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoons ground cinnamon teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground nutmeg cups grated carrot cup canola oil

1⁄ 3

cup light buttermilk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 large eggs Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows) 1⁄ 4 cup toasted pecans, chopped Garnish: ground cinnamon 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 9-inch round deep cake pan with baking spray with flour. 2. In a medium microwave-safe bowl, combine reserved pineapple juice and raisins. Microwave on high until mixture begins to boil, about 30 seconds. Let stand for 20 minutes. Drain raisins. 3. In a large bowl, combine flours, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, salt, allspice, ginger,

and nutmeg. Stir in carrot. In a medium bowl, whisk together oil, buttermilk, vanilla, eggs, pineapple, and raisins. 4. Make a well in the center of dry ingredients. Add egg mixture, stirring until moistened (batter will be thick). Spoon into prepared pan, smoothing top with a spatula. 5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack. 6. Place cake on a cake plate. Spread with Cream Cheese Frosting, and sprinkle with pecans. Garnish with cinnamon, if desired.

CREAM CHEESE FROSTING In a medium bowl, beat 1⁄ 2 cup softened 1⁄ 3 less fat cream cheese and 2 tablespoons softened butter with a mixer at medium speed until combined. Add 21⁄ 2 cups confectioners’ sugar, 1 tablespoon light buttermilk, and 1⁄ 2 teaspoon vanilla extract, beating until smooth.

///////COOKBOOK SHELF

Iconic Dishes from

Music

City RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED , WITH PERMISSION ,

NASHVILLE EATS BY JENNIFER JUSTUS (STEWART, TABORI & CHANG, 2015) PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY ANDREA BEHRENDS FROM

T

he welcoming city of Nashville has much to ofer in the

Is your grandmother’s skillet used in the book?

way of food, and writer Jennifer Justus has written

Once I started a food blog, one of my cousins gave me my

her first cookbook, Nashville Eats, to share the plenty

grandmother’s skillet. It’s pictured with a number of the recipes

with us. Full of Southern classics, new variations, and Nashville

in the book. I use it regularly, and each time I cook in it, I get

specialties, this cookbook shows how Nashville treads a line of

this feeling of responsibility—I want to honor my grandmother

maintaining traditions and broadening food horizons, all the

through my cooking.

while dishing up a heaping serving of hospitality along with their good eats. Look for simple and delicious recipes, insights

What is the role of cast iron in Nashville cooking?

on Nashville-area chefs and food producers, and kitchen

It’s necessary for so many classic recipes—cornbread and fried

playlists that will make you happy to sing for your supper.

chicken—even our hot chicken depends on a good cast-iron skillet. I really believe that any good hot chicken has to start

Tell us about Nashville’s culinary claims to fame.

with expertly fried chicken. Cast iron plays a huge role in that.

We are definitely known for our hot chicken and meat-andthree restaurants, but we really love our farm-fresh produce

You say the recipes in the cookbook are simple?

and backyard gardens. This really comes through at the meat-

We rely on what’s available—it was important to me for the

and-threes, where in reality it’s more like meat-and-tens.

recipes in the book to reflect this, but also to be simple to make. I want to simply honor the ingredients.

105

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

april 2016

KITCHEN PLAYLIST These are tunes inspired by Southern birds and are ideal to play when cooking your own.

TAKE AN OLD COLD TATER (AND WAIT)

FRIED CHICKEN AND A COUNTRY TUNE

LITTLE JIMMY DICKENS

BILLY EDD WHEELER

All four feet and eleven inches of Little Jimmy Dickens might have been covered in a rhinestone suit when he sang this tune, written from the perspective of a boy waiting his turn at the chicken platter as the pastor and other guests took first pick.

THERE AIN’T A CHICKEN SAFE IN TENNESSEE HOMER AND JETHRO Satire songs from the “Thinking Man’s Hillbillies” included this number from the heyday of the fastfood fried chicken craze.

FRIED HOT CHICKEN ON WHITE BREAD WITH PICKLE recipe on page 108

As the song goes, “Selling fried chicken and a country tune/ They go together like a moon in June.”

MAMA BAKE A PIE (DADDY KILL A CHICKEN) TOM T. HALL One of Nashville’s greatest songwriters, with 11 number-one hits and more than double that in the Top 10 chart, wrote this song about a soldier’s welcome after returning from war.

Tell me about the kitchen playlists.

How do the recipes provide a connection between the

The minute I decided to write a cookbook about Nashville, I

past and the present?

knew there had to be music. Food and music both have a way of

I think it is important to continue past traditions as well as

telling our stories and bringing us together. It was fun to try to

welcome newcomers. When writing the book, I chose recipes

find the perfect song for each section. I probably ended up with

that fit into one of three categories—recipes that I worried

more classic country than anything, but I did work to include

were going to fade away (like beaten biscuits), classic Southern

the diversity of the city’s music scene.

dishes that we celebrate here in Nashville (like pimiento cheese), and modern takes on classic ingredients (like catfish

Why is it important that many of these dishes are from

tacos with lemon aïoli).

home kitchens? I wanted the recipes to be accessible. These are things that

What do you hope readers gain from this cookbook?

have been made at home, and that you can now make at home,

I want them to sense that line between the past and the

as well. When I asked chefs to contribute recipes, I’d ask them

present—where Nashville has been and where we’re headed.

to share something they’d make at home rather than in the

I also want to share the feeling of Nashville hospitality—good,

restaurant. In addition to the simplicity, I also think what we

casual food that invites everyone to come together around

make at home speaks to who we are.

the table.

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

106

CHERRY HAND PIES Makes about 10

‘

NASHVILLE HAS A FRIENDLY, OPEN WAY OF WELCOMING FOLKS AND MAKING THEM FEEL LIKE THEY'RE HOME.

’

—JENNIFER JUSTUS

Recipe from Nashville Eats by Jennifer Justus (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2015)

Good-quality fruit preserves make this recipe easy. 3

cups plus 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 21⁄ 2 teaspoons kosher salt 11⁄ 4 cups plus 1 tablespoon butter, cubed and chilled Ice water 3⁄ 4 cup cherry preserves 1 large egg, beaten Coarse white sugar for sprinkling 1. In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt. Remove the butter from the refrigerator or freezer, and using your fingers, quickly work it into the flour until the consistency of the mixture is partly mealy, with a few almond-size hunks of butter. 2. Add ice water, beginning with 1⁄4 cup, then adding it by tablespoons, just until the dough forms a moist but somewhat shaggy ball. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface to knead very gently until it comes together. Wrap it in plastic wrap, and chill it for at least 30 minutes. 3. Preheat the oven to 350°. Place the chilled dough on a lightly floured surface, and cut it into two pieces. Working with one piece at a time, roll out the dough to 1⁄4 inch thick, and cut it into circles about 4 inches in diameter. 4. Place a tablespoon of preserves just right of center on each circle. Brush egg along edge of one side of each circle. Fold the dough over the preserves. Press the edges together with the tines of a fork to seal them. Brush the tops of the pies with more egg, and sprinkle them with the sugar. 5. Place the pies on a baking sheet, and bake them until the crust is light golden, about 30 minutes. Allow the pies to cool until just warm before serving.

107

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

march

april 2016

FRIED HOT CHICKEN ON WHITE BREAD WITH PICKLE Makes 4 servings Recipe from Nashville Eats by Jennifer Justus (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2015)

I believe part of the fun in cooking your own hot chicken comes from figuring out the spice blend you like best. Brine: 5 cups water 1⁄ 2 cup dark brown sugar 1⁄ 2 cup hot pepper sauce* 1⁄ 4 cup kosher salt 1 chicken (about 3 pounds), cut into 8 pieces Hot coating: 3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons ground red pepper 11⁄ 2 teaspoons dark brown sugar 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper 1⁄ 2 teaspoon garlic powder 1⁄ 2 teaspoon kosher salt 1⁄ 4 teaspoon ground cumin 2 cups all-purpose flour 1⁄ 2 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper Vegetable oil, for frying 8 slices plain white sandwich bread and dill pickle slices, to serve 1. For brine: In a large stockpot, combine 5 cups water, brown sugar, hot sauce, and salt; heat the mixture over medium heat, stirring just until the solids dissolve. Remove the pot from the heat, and let the brine cool completely before adding the chicken to the brine. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour or overnight, if possible. 2. For hot coating: Heat the oil over medium-low heat in a small saucepan, then add the ground red pepper, brown sugar, crushed red pepper, garlic powder, salt, and cumin, stirring until fragrant, about

a minute, to combine the ingredients, flavor the oil, and open up the spices. Set the mixture aside. 3. Prepare the flour for dredging by combining it with the salt and pepper in a shallow dish, such as a pie plate. Remove the chicken from the brine, and pat it dry. Allow it to come up to room temperature (about 30 minutes, covered). 4. Pour a good amount of oil into a cast-iron skillet. (It should cover the chicken about halfway once the meat is placed in the pan.) Attach a deep fry thermometer to the side of the skillet, and bring the temperature up to 350°. 5. Quickly dredge the chicken in the flour mixture. Shake off the excess, and lower the chicken, skin side down, into the oil. The temperature will drop to about 300° when the chicken goes into skillet. That’s okay. Don’t crank the heat, but continuously adjust it up and down as you fry to keep the temperature hovering around 325°. Be careful not to crowd the chicken—I usually fry about three pieces at a time in a 9-inch skillet. 6. Continue frying the chicken for about 8 to 10 minutes per side, turning it once using tongs. You can cover the skillet as you fry if you’d like, but leaving the lid off will make for crispier chicken, which I prefer. 7. Once the chicken is golden brown, transfer it to a paper-towel-lined plate to cool slightly before coating it in the hot coating. 8. Place two pieces of white bread on each plate. Using a brush, dab hot coating mixture onto one side of the chicken. Place the pieces of chicken spiced side down on the bread slices, and continue brushing the top sides with the hot coating mixture. Serve with plenty of pickles.

“The Secret to Southern Pecan Pies”

GOLDENEAGLESYRUP.COM FAYETTE, AL 205-932-5294

Snowden Sausage Company

Great for the Grill *We used Frank’s RedHot.

Andalusia, Alabama 334-222-6042 snowdensausage.com

////// RECIPE INDEX STARTERS

NEW!

Southern

Alabama Deviled Eggs 32 Deviled Ham 71 Florida Deviled Eggs 32 Georgia Deviled Eggs 31 Louisiana Deviled Eggs 31 Mississippi Deviled Eggs 31 South Carolina Deviled Eggs 32 Southern Deviled Eggs 31 Tennessee Deviled Eggs 32 Texas Deviled Eggs 32 West Virginia Deviled Eggs 32

FROSTINGS, FILLINGS, & TOPPINGS

MAIN DISHES

SIDES

Arnaud’s Trout Amandine 55 Bacon-Wrapped Chicken with Sugar Snap Peas 25 Brown Sugar Glazed Ham 69 Chicken and Dressing Casserole 65 Country Captain Casserole 64 Fried Hot Chicken on White Bread with Pickle 108 Ham and Asparagus Casserole 70 Oven-Fried Catsh 100 Roasted Chicken with Herbed Rice 27 Sausage and Grits 64 Shrimp and Rice Casserole 65 Spicy Pineapple Glazed Ham 68 Spring Frittata 29 Spring Pesto Pasta 26 The Bright Star’s Greek Style Snapper 55

Asparagus with Garlic and Thyme 100 Columbia Restaurant’s Original “1905” Salad 55 Herbed Rice 27 Roasted Spring Turnips 27

DESSERTS BROWNED-BUTTER PECAN ROLLS PAGE 110

60+ CAST-IRON FAVORI

Don’t Wait!

~ Recipe ideas using your favorite pans

ORDER TODAY! hoffmanmediastore.com/castiron

111

TASTE OF THE SOUTH /

inside this issue

800-36

march

~ Flavorful breakfasts to brighten your mornings

april 2016

Cherry Hand Pies 107 Coconut Cake 42 Healthier Carrot Cake 101 Kentucky Bourbon Chocolate Pecan Pie 40 Key Lime Pie 39 Lane Cake 44 Mary Mac's Tea Room Georgia Pecan Pie 56 Possum Pie 41 Sweet Potato Cobbler 38 Tennessee Stack Cake 37 Texas Sheet Cake 43

Apple Filling 37 Chocolate Frosting 43 Cream Cheese Frosting 101 Lane Cake Filling 44 Seven-Minute Frosting 42 Spiced Pecans 33

DRESSINGS & SAUCES “1905” Dressing 55 Comeback Sauce 33 White Barbecue Sauce 33

BREADS & DOUGHS Buttermilk Piecrust 40 Poogan’s Porch Famous Biscuits 56 Spicy Cheddar Biscuits with Ham 70

35 ICONIC SOUTHERN RESTURANTS Pages 45-56: Photos courtesy Loveless Cafe, Commander’s Palace, Lee Deas, Arnaud’s, Deborah Whitlaw Llewellyn, Arnold’s Country Kitchen, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, Charles Vergos’ Rendezvous, Tujague’s Restaurant, Columbia Restaurant, Anthony Raspberry, Eugenia Uhl RETURN TO SPLENDOR Pages 57-62: Photos courtesy The Jefferson Hotel, The Roosevelt New Orleans, Old Edwards Inn and Spa, Heather Collins, The Jefferson Hotel, Keswick Hall

l

T nua n 4 A 1 H

Cajun Woodstock Louisiana

2016

beneÄtting St. Jude Hospital

Entertainment • Carnival Food • Fun • Auction Poker Run on Sunday

Saturday, April 23rd 11am–8pm Sunday, April 24th 11am–7pm Church Point City Park 100 Darbonne Street Church Point, Louisiana WWW.CAJUNWOODSTOCK.COM Acadia Parish Tourist Commission 401 Tower Road • Crowley, LA 70527 877.783.2109 • [email protected] www.acadiatourism.org

For more information, see www.cajunwoodstock.com or contact Steve Carriere at 337.280.8710

SPRING FRITTATA page 29

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com / TASTE OF THE SOUTH

112

Stacey Little B

logger, cookbook writer, and all-around food lover Stacey Little comes from a long line of Southern cooks who taught him how to create simple, flavorful dishes and prepare them with lots of love. Stacey knows that his Southern recipes are the kind that bring folks together, and his passion is to continue to inspire this connection through good food. To learn more about Stacey and try his recipes, visit his blog southernbite.com, and check out his cookbook, The Southern Bite Cookbook. Favorite spring ingredients? I automatically think of all the great produce— strawberries, spring onions, and asparagus top the list for me. I grew up with grandparents who kept two huge gardens, so it was common to go out and pick what we were having for dinner. Dish you’d bring to a potluck? Sweet Corn Spoonbread—even folks who are adamantly against sweet cornbread are won over every time! Go-to comfort food? Mac and cheese! My grandmother makes a delicious version with red-rind hoop cheese and evaporated milk. The result is creamy, cheesy perfection. First thing you remember cooking? Scrambled eggs. I was barely big enough to reach the stove but I snuck in the kitchen one Saturday morning to make breakfast for my parents. It consisted solely of scrambled eggs, which I’m sure were like rubber, but they ate them and smiled. Biggest cooking influence? Without a doubt, my mother. She taught me that any food is the best food when it’s made with love. It’s not fancy, expensive ingredients or hours spent in the kitchen that make it delicious—it’s all about the love that goes in it.

cou u

Most requested recipe? I’ve found that people really enjoy simple recipes that are packed with flavor—some of these that are most requested are Asian Slaw, Chicken Ranch Cheese Balls, and Fettuccini Alfredo.

Kim im ox ox

Three ingredients you keep in your kitchen? Garlic, bacon, and self-rising flour.

h

////// DISHING WITH