The Albatross Hooded Cardigan
Crochet pattern by Hailey Bailey
The albatross is a fantastically unique seabird. The wandering albatross has the largest wingspan of any bird at about 11 feet across and can, amazingly, stay in flight for months at a time, flying over up to 10,000 miles of ocean on each
excursion. The albatross also has the most amazingly awkward mating dance, (Seriously. Look it up!) This hooded cardigan is perfect for living your best
seabird life -- the chunky textured moss stitch will keep you warm (which is
essential on the chilly Northwest coast!) and the hood will keep the wind and sea spray out of your hair.
This pattern is for personal use only. Please do not alter, share, copy or rewrite this pattern in any way. You may sell finished pieces made from this pattern but please credit my etsy shop. By doing so you help to support my small business and my family. Thank you!
You will need:
○ Approx. 1,600-2,000 yards of size 4 yarn (I used about 7 skeins of Caron Simply Soft Tweed to make a size medium.) The quantity of yarn needed will vary depending upon the size of your sweater.
○ Size I/5.5mm crochet hook (for ribbing) and size K/6.5mm crochet hook (for the majority of the sweater)
○ Yarn needle
○ Measuring tape
○ Chain (ch)
○ Slip stitch (sl st)
○ Half Double Crochet (hdc)
○ Back loop half double crochet (blhdc)
○ Moss stitch (*sl st in next st, hdc in next st. Repeat from *)
Sizing/Gauge: *This pattern uses measurements to determine the best fit for you, The pattern
includes suggested measurements to create adult sizes Small (US women’s sizes 4-6)
Medium (sizes 8-10) and Large (sizes 12-14) as well as sizing tips to customize the size
of your sweater to fit perfectly. For example, if you want a looser sleeve, you can feel free to create your pieces to be a bit wider than suggested. Because of this emphasis on measurements, the pattern does not strictly depend upon achieving an exact
gauge, so don’t worry if your gauge does not match my swatch exactly! It matters more that your fabric has drape and is not too stiff -- if it is, try a larger hook.
Gauge swatch: using your size K/6.5mm hook,
1. Ch 13, Sl st in 2nd ch from hook. Hdc in next ch. Moss stitch (*sl st in next ch. Hdc in next ch. Repeat from *) across. Turn.
2. Ch 1. Moss stitch across. Repeat for a total of 14 rows. Your finished swatch should be about 4” x 4” square.
Pattern for Adult Size Cardigan
Sleeve cuffs (make 2):
With your I/5.5mm hook, Ch 7.
1. Hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Hdc across remaining chains. Turn. (6 st) 2. Ch 1. Blhdc across. Turn. (6 st)
3. Repeat step 3 until cuff reaches your desired length (small: 7” medium: 8” large: 9”) *Sizing tip: You may adjust this measurement to fit loosely around your wrist by using your true measurements, or you may make it a bit larger than suggested if you would like to have baggier sleeves.
4. Rotate piece so that you will be working across the long length of the cuff. Ch 1. Sc evenly across the length of the cuff. (be sure your stitch count is an even number) Turn.
Continue working on the body of the sleeve as follows:
Body of sleeve: start from where you just left off on the sleeve cuffs. Switch to your size K/6.5mm hook!
1. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) *Sl st in first st. Hdc in next st. Repeat from * across. Turn. (This repeat will be referred to throughout the
pattern as the “moss stitch.” Be sure you are ending each moss stitch row with a hdc and beginning each row with a sl st.)
2-6. Repeat row 1 for the next 5 rows (for a total of 6 rows.)
7. (Increase row) Ch 1. (Sl st, hdc) in first st. *Sl st in next st. Hdc in next st.
Repeat from * as normally across until you reach the last st. (Sl st, hdc) in last st. Turn. (Note: as you complete this row you may notice that the moss stitch
pattern is aligned differently than when you were creating the previous rows. This is normal! Just be sure you count your stitches and ensure that you are increasing by 2 st at each increase row.)
8-13. Moss stitch across for 6 rows. 14. (Increase row) Repeat step 7.
15-20. Moss stitch across for 6 rows. 21. (Increase row) Repeat step 7.
22-27. Moss stitch across for 6 rows. 28. (Increase row) Repeat step 7.
29-34. Moss stitch across for 6 rows. 35. (Increase row) Repeat step 7.
36-41. Moss stitch across for 6 rows. 42. (Increase row) Repeat step 7.
43-48. Moss stitch across for 6 rows. 49. (Increase row) Repeat step 7.
50-55. Moss stitch across for 6 rows 56. (Increase row) Repeat step 7.
57… Moss stitch across for each row from now on, no longer increasing every 7th row, until the entire sleeve (including cuff) reaches your desired
length (Small: 19” Medium: 20” Large: 21” I made a size medium and ended up
with 68 total moss stitch rows.) *Size tip: Adjust this length to create longer or shorter sleeves as needed!
Bind off, leaving a long tail to stitch your sleeve
Repeat this process to create your
second sleeve! 4
Back of the sweater (make 1) starting with the bottom ribbing: Use your smaller I/5.5mm hook for the ribbing! 1. Ch 7.
2. Hdc in second ch from hook. Hdc across. Turn. (6 st) 3. Ch 1. Blhdc across. Turn. (6 st)
4. Repeat step 3 until the ribbing reaches your desired length (small: 16”
medium: 18” large: 20”) *Sizing tip: You can also adjust this measurement to create a narrower or wider fit. The wider you make this piece, the more loosely the sweater will fit. Keep in mind that your sweater will also be heavier if you do this!
5. Rotate so that you will be working across the length of the ribbing. Ch 1. Sc evenly across. (Again, be sure your stitch count is an even number!) Turn.
Switch to your K/6.5mm hook. Ch 1.
6. Ch 1. Moss stitch across. Turn.
7. Repeat step 6 until the entire piece (including ribbing along the bottom)
reaches your desired length (Small: 27” Medium: 28” Large: 29” I created a medium and ended up with 92 total moss stitch rows) * Sizing tip: You
guessed it! You can also customize this measurement to create a longer or shorter
sweater. Just make sure you make your front pieces the same length.
Bind off. Your back panel is now complete!
Front panels (make 2) Starting with the bottom ribbing: Use your smaller I/5.5mm hook for the ribbing! 8. Ch 7.
9. Hdc in second ch from hook. Hdc across. Turn. (6 st) 10. Ch 1. Blhdc across. Turn. (6 st)
11. Repeat step 3 until the ribbing reaches your desired length (small: 10” medium: 11” large: 12”) *Sizing tip: This measurement is also adjustable. If you
create your back panel wider than suggested, you will want to add some width to the
front panels, too. I use the following rule: The width of the front panels added together should equal about 4 inches more than the back panel. For example, two 11” front panels = 22” for a size medium, with the back panel for a medium being 18” wide.
12. Rotate so that you will be working across the length of the ribbing. Ch 1. Sc evenly across. (Again, be sure your stitch count is an even number!) Turn.
Switch to your K/6.5mm hook. Ch 1.
13. Ch 1. Moss stitch across. Turn.
14. Repeat step 6 until the entire piece (including ribbing along the bottom)
reaches your desired length (Small: 27” Medium: 28” Large: 29”) * Sizing tip:
Make these as long as your back panel and you are golden!
Bind off, leaving a long tail for attaching your front panels to your back panel later on.
Repeat this process to create your second front panel.
Now we will put the main pieces of the sweater together before we create the hood and finishing touches.
Stitching: We will be using a simple sewing stitch to attach the pieces of the
sweater. The whip stitch works perfectly well for this use. If you would prefer, you can also sc the pieces together for added strength.
Lay your two front panels on top of your back panel, with the outer edges
aligned (there will be overlap in the center where the front panels meet together -- this is normal). Starting at the outer corner, stitch the top edge of your front panel to the top edge of the back panel halfway across the width of the front
panel (for example, a medium front panel is 11” wide, so you will stitch about 5.5” of the front panel to the back). Repeat on the other side. Use the image below as a guide.
Now we will finish the sleeves and attach them to the sweater.
Fold each completed sleeve in half. Using your long length of yarn leftover from creating the sleeve, stitch down the length of the sleeve to create a tube. Now we will stitch the sleeves and the body together. Turn your sleeve right
side out and sandwich it between the front and back panels (which should still have the wrong sides facing out.)
Line up the top of the sleeve with the top of the body, where you stitched the
front and back together. The seam of the sleeve should lay where the armpit of the sweater will be.
Stitch around the entire circular opening of the sleeve, making sure to secure both the front and back to the armpit area where the sleeve seam meets both pieces. Repeat for your second sleeve.
To create the hood, first we need to see how many stitches wide our hood needs to be. To determine this, count the number of stitches across the top of your
sweater (starting from the corner of the front panel where it is hanging free and ending at the same place on the other front panel). See image below for
guidance. Now take this stitch count and divide it by 2 (I counted 64 stitches, which divided by 2 equals 32. If you end up with an odd number, subtract 1 before dividing by 2.)
Hood (make 2)
Using your K/6.5mm hook, Chain your determined number + 1. (For my example, this means ch 33).
1. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook. Hdc in next ch. Continue the moss stitch
across. Turn. (As always, be sure your moss stitch rows end with a hdc).
2. Repeat the moss stitch until your piece measures about 10” long. Turn.
*Sizing tip! This measurement is pretty important, but you can make it longer if you want an oversized hood with extra drape around your face.
3. Begin the row as normal with the moss stitch, but stop when you have 2 st remaining. Turn.
4. Complete your next moss stitch row as normal. Turn. 5. Repeat step 3. Turn.
6. Repeat step 4. Turn. 7. Repeat step 3. Turn.
8. Ch 1. Skip first st. Sl st in 2nd st. Sl st in 3rd st. Hdc in next st. Continue with moss stitch for the remainder of the row.
9. Repeat step 3.
10. Repeat step 8. Bind off, leaving a long length of yarn for attaching your
two halves of the hood later.
Repeat this process to
create your second half of the hood.
Stack your two halves of the hood on top of one another. Stitch along the curved edge of the hood, using the image below as a guide. Your hood should look like this when opened: 11
To attach the hood to your sweater, simply stitch the bottom edge of the
finished hood along that space where you counted your stitches (the top of your sweater).
You are almost done with your sweater! Our last step will be to create a ribbed edge along the center perimeter of the sweater, which will give it a finishing touch and add width to the hood.
Remember to use your smaller I/5.5mm hook!
Join yarn with a sl st at the bottom corner of one of the front panels. 1. Ch 7.
2. Hdc in second ch from hook. Hdc in remaining ch (6 hdc)
3. Sl st this row of crochet to the body of the sweater. Sl st in the next 2 spaces along the sweater. Turn.
4. Ch 1. Blhdc back across the little row of crochet. Turn.
5. Blhdc back across until you reach the sweater again. Sl st to the body of the sweater and sl st in the next 2 spaces along the sweater. Turn.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 across the edge of the sweater, going all the way up the front panel, around the hood, and back down the other side of the sweater.
See images on the next page for guidance.
This ribbing should lay nicely flat as you go along. If it looks too tight, try just 1
sl st between each row instead of 2. In turn, if it seems too “floppy” or like there is too much fabric, try adding another sl st between each row. This part can be tricky and fiddly but don’t let it discourage you! The end result is worth it!
Bhdc across… Sl st to the sweater.
Sl st in two spaces along the sweater. Ch 1. Now you will turn and blhdc
back across the little section.
Once you have finished the edging all the way around, bind off and weave in all your ends!
You are finished! Congrats on your new sweater and thank you for using my pattern! Please share your work by tagging me on instagram (@madebyhaileybailey) or using the hashtag #thealbatrosshoodedcardigan. I would love to see your color combinations and yarn choices! As always, feel free to contact me through Etsy at etsy.com/shop/haileybailey or by email at [email protected]