A Northern Coast to Coast Walk

SAVE OFFLINE

A NORTHERN

COAST TO COAST WALK from St Bees to Robin Hood’s Bay by Terry Marsh

2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA LA7 7PY www.cicerone.co.uk

About the Author

Terry Marsh is an award-winning writer and photographer specialising in the outdoors and travel, and has authored or co-authored more than 60 travel or walking guidebooks. He lives in Chorley, Lancashire, on the western edge of the West Pennine Moors, which he has explored and written about extensively. He is a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society and of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, and from 1993 until 2009 was Secretary of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild. He holds a Master of Arts degree with Distinction in Lake District Studies. Other Cicerone guides by the author The Dales Way The Isle of Man The Isle of Skye The Shropshire Way The West Highland Way Walking in the Forest of Bowland and Pendle Walking on the West Pennine Moors

© Terry Marsh 1993, 2003, 2006 Third edition 2006 Reprinted 2008, 2010 (with updates) ISBN-13: 978 1 85284 505 6 ISBN-10: 1 85284 505 8 Second edition 2003 ISBN 1 85284 367 5 Reprinted 2004 First edition 1993 ISBN 1 85284 126 5 Reprinted 1997 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Photos by the author. This product includes mapping data licensed from Ordnance Survey ® with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office. © Crown copyright 2010. All rights reserved. Licence number PU100012932 Front cover: Ascending above Greenup Gill (Rosthwaite to Grasmere section)

Advice to Readers Readers are advised that, while every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Please check Updates on this book’s page on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk) before planning your trip. We would also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY, United Kingdom.

CONTENTS INTRODUCTION Introduction to the Third Edition The Route in Brief Distances and Height Gain Using the Guide Planning the Walk Maps Accommodation and Facilities THE COAST TO COAST WALK WEST TO EAST 1 ACROSS LAKELAND St Bees to Cleator Cleator to Ennerdale Bridge Ennerdale Bridge to Black Sail Youth Hostel Black Sail Youth Hostel to Borrowdale (Rosthwaite) Borrowdale (Rosthwaite) to Grasmere (Goody Bridge) Grasmere (Goody Bridge) to Patterdale Patterdale to Shap 2 LIMESTONE COUNTRY Shap to Orton Orton to Kirkby Stephen 3 INTO THE DALES Kirkby Stephen to Keld Keld to Reeth Reeth to Richmond 4 VALE OF MOWBRAY Richmond to Bolton-on-Swale Bolton-on-Swale to Danby Wiske Danby Wiske to Ingleby Cross 5 THE NORTH YORK MOORS Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top Clay Bank Top to Glaisdale

Glaisdale to Grosmont Grosmont to Robin Hood’s Bay THE COAST TO COAST WALK EAST TO WEST APPENDICES Appendix A Variant Route Descriptions Appendix B Useful Addresses BIBLIOGRAPHY

River Swale (Keld to Reeth section)

INTRODUCTION Credit where credit is due: when in 1973 Wainwright devised his Coast to Coast Walk across Northern England, it was a masterpiece of inspiration, a touch of genius – if not of concept, then of line – and it would be difficult if not impossible to link the two chosen ends by a more satisfying route. It is a tantalising and inspiring excursion, to rank with the finest of this country’s long-distance walks. The man himself said it was but one coast to coast walk – that walkers could devise their own. Maybe so, but as a tribute to its quality its enthusiasts grow by the year, while ‘alternatives’ remain pale and few in comparison. The walk runs as close to ruler-straight as Wainwright could devise, from the Irish Sea lapping the shores of Cumbria at St Bees, to where the waters of the North Sea flow into Robin Hood’s Bay on the Yorkshire Coast, a distance of just over 300km (190 miles). It’s certainly not a walk on which to cut one’s teeth as a backpacker (the Dales Way or even the West Highland Way would be much more fitting for that), but one on which seasoned walkers will experience little difficulty.

Heading up Stonethwaite (Rosthwaite to Grasmere section)

INTRODUCTION TO THE THIRD EDITION The route was revisited in its entirety during 2005, and where necessary amendments made to the route description and some of the background notes. The whole book has been rewritten, with more than 50 per cent new or revised material, but if my original text is still valid it has been left intact. This version of Wainwright’s walk sticks very closely to the original line, with a few minor tweaks, and accommodating changes that have become possible,

sensible or necessary in later years, including many made available by the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000, and the introduction of Access Land across much of the high ground of the route. However, I have opted for the much safer and significantly more beautiful low-level route through Swaledale, rather than grinding across the moors above, and I’ve also ditched all the road walking through the Vale of Mowbray (as I had done in the first edition) – there’s just no need for it. Even so, where I have dropped parts of the original line, I still provide them in Appendix A for Wainwright devotees (there are cross-references to Appendix A where relevant). The various high-level alternatives I provided in earlier editions, notably in the Lake District, have also been omitted – this book concentrates on the Coast to Coast Walk itself. You can easily work out variations for yourself, but my guess is that most people want to do the basic walk and just that.

THE ROUTE IN BRIEF Opening with a lofty scamper around the edge of St Bees Head, the first day, usually taken as far as Ennerdale Bridge, samples the delights of coastal walking before heading inland to the western fringe of Lakeland. The legbuckling slopes of the minor summit, Dent fell, on a warm day especially, come as something of a joke, but beyond that one of Lakeland’s hidden gems, Uldale and Nannycatch Beck, compensates amply on the run in to Ennerdale. Ennerdale marks the entry, if you like, to Lakeland proper, and pushes far into the heart of steep-sided mountains, to the great summits of Pillar and Great Gable that lie at Ennerdale’s head. Then, with a daunting flourish, the walk engages the short-lived wrath of Loft Beck as it hauls itself across the fells to Borrowdale, coming first by a back road into Seatoller, and then by a charming traverse to Rosthwaite, as much on the traditional tourist route as Black Sail Youth Hostel in the deep sanctum of Ennerdale is off it. By enterprising leaps the walk visits Langstrath, crosses by Greenup Edge to Far Easedale and Grasmere, before crossing to Patterdale by Grisedale Tarn.

Pillar and Ennerdale (Ennerdale Bridge to Black Sail section)

Beyond Patterdale the route clings as long as it can to the high ground, before throwing in its hand and dropping to the shores of Haweswater, preparing, inevitably, to leave the beauties of Lakeland behind. Understandably, for it was his greatest and first love, Wainwright was inclined to feel that once the Lake District was left, the finest had gone, though he did ‘not concede that the rest of the journey is in the nature of anticlimax’. If the truth is known, what lies ahead is every bit as enchanting, captivating, and spiritually reviving as Lakeland, qualities derived, if not from the ruggedness of the landscape, then from its sublime insinuation into our senses, its soft and outstandingly beautiful insistence on playing its part in this drama, with equal rights to top billing. And quite rightly so! If you think all the beauty is in the Lake District, you are in for an agreeable surprise. The sensitivity of the landscape and the environment between Shap and Kirkby Stephen has led to alternative lines being introduced to protect important areas, and once the delights of Kirkby Stephen are left behind, new lines lead by Faraday Gill on to Nine Standards Rigg, and then by Whitsundale to Keld at the head of Swaledale, arguably one of the finest of the dales. Preferring a lofty traverse between Keld and Reeth, the original line makes what it can of the old mining routes that abound in this historically fascinating region, while, for those who prefer a valley route, the flower-decked meadows along the River Swale are second to none. But, beyond the industrial archaeology, there is little to repay the effort of the climbs onto the moors, and the often misty conditions that prevail. So, in this edition, the preferred route is the valley way, with the high-level route given as an option (see

Appendix A).

Striding out across Crosby Ravensworth Fell (Shap to Orton section)

Between Reeth and Richmond there abound limestone scars, leafy lanes, woodland and rich pastures, while Richmond itself seems to remain aloof from the 21st century in many ways, retaining much of its great historical flavour, centred on its castle. The ensuing Vale of Mowbray is quite simply delightful, and forms a lengthy link between the Dales and the North York Moors, although approaching marathon distance in length. There is for some a temptation to race across the vale, but that is to do it a disservice. It is a quiet and remarkable interlude, across which this book fashions a lazy route, linking farms and villages, rather than simply rushing round the roads. As the journey goes on, so the Cleveland Hills approach, and an unrivalled crossing of the North York Moors lies in wait. Superb views enliven the way, which here proves rather more undulating than might be expected. Beyond Clay Bank Top the walking is effortless, with only the pull on to Urra Moor demanding any head of steam. After that, leg-swinging freedom, partly along the line of a former mineral railway, is the order of the day, with expansive views across rolling moorland to cheer the spirit and prepare for the final stage of the journey. The concluding stage is as fitting as the first, and finds its way along old toll roads, by way of ancient burial mounds, across tracts of heather moorland, through ancient, time-worn villages, delightful woodland, until, at the very end, the walker is faced, as he or she was in the beginning, with an exhilarating clifftop walk to the beauty that is Robin Hood’s Bay.

The Coast to Coast Walk is, as Keats observed: ‘A thing of beauty… A joy for ever…’ Make sure you experience it.

DISTANCES AND HEIGHT GAIN To ensure accuracy when giving distances and height gain, detailed measurements have been made using OS Explorer Maps, at a scale of 1:25,000, where necessary measuring distances at 100-metre intervals, and calculating vertical heights to within five metres. Any lack of precision resulting from this is unlikely to cause distress to walkers accustomed to regular outings over mountain and moorland terrain.

USING THE GUIDE Following this introduction, the guide is divided into three main sections. The first gives the route description, from west to east, annotated as appropriate with notes of geological, historical, industrial, sociological and natural history interest. The second section gives the route description only in an east-to-west direction, cross-referenced to the west–east description for explanations of points of interest or comment. The final section comprises the appendices, bibliography and index.

Robin Hood’s Bay (Grosmont to Robin Hood’s Bay section)

Although the route itself is divided into five sections, no attempt has been made to construct ‘day length’ sections – that is for the individual walker to decide. The maps in the guide are based on the OS 1:50,000 Landranger sheets.

PLANNING THE WALK Walkers with other long-distance walks under their belts will find that the Coast to Coast Walk differs very little in terms of physical effort and organisation, but, as always, good forward planning and attention to detail can prevent a happy and rewarding endeavour from turning into a nightmare. With so much of interest along the way, it is vital to a full enjoyment of the walk to allow time to explore and potter about, to paddle in the streams and rivers, to visit churches (and pubs) – to get something of a feel for the lifestyle that permeates the course of the walk and the history that has fashioned the land it traverses. The first prerequisite is to be sure you are fit enough to tackle the walk. Setting off to do around two weeks’ worth of long walks back-to-back takes its toll, usually starting around day three. It is also important to plan days that you can realistically complete, and even then be prepared to abbreviate your intentions. Don’t be drawn into joining other walkers you meet and inadvertently pressing on to do more than you feel comfortable with. As a general guide, you will need about two weeks to do the entire walk, give or take a day or so, plus whatever time is needed to get to and from start and finish points. The total distance is 300km (190 miles), and involves an ascent (and descent) of 6995m (22,825ft), no mean undertaking – a Himalayan peak, in fact. As mentioned earlier, to avoid imposing any set pattern on the walk beyond that demanded by the disposition of accommodation, it has not been broken down into daily sections. The whole route is divided into five sections of nominal geographical significance. Each of the sections within these divisions represents an artificial linking together of two or more places that provide accommodation in some shape or form, and even then there are exceptions, as at Clay Bank Top in the North York Moors. All this presupposes that walkers want to do the whole thing in one endeavour, and this is a commendable and logical challenge. But I’ve met up with many people doing it in instalments, and getting just as much fun out of it, and in some cases rather more, because they can cut out and go home if the weather gets really bad.

MAPS The following maps will be needed. Either: 1:50,000 Landranger sheets 89 West Cumbria

90 91 92 93 94 98 99

Penrith & Keswick, Ambleside Appleby-in-Westmorland area Barnard Castle & surrounding area Middlesbrough & Darlington area Whitby & surrounding area Wensleydale & Upper Wharfedale Northallerton, Ripon & surrounding area

Or: the following Explorer maps (be sure to get those with Access Land shown) at 1:25,000 303 Whitehaven & Workington OL4 English Lakes, North West OL5 English Lake, North East OL7 English Lakes, South East OL19 Howgill Fells & Upper Eden Valley OL26 North York Moors, East OL27 North York Moors, West OL30 Yorkshire Dales, North and Central 302 Northallerton & Thirsk 304 Darlington & Richmond Harveys also produce two maps covering the Coast to Coast Walk.

ACCOMMODATION AND FACILITIES The facilities available to anyone undertaking the Coast to Coast Walk change every year, and rather than list these in the guidebook, readers are referred to the main sources of information below. Pack-carrying services are the norm, accommodation listings are updated annually, and an increasing amount of information is available that will enable you to plan your route. The best place to access this information is on the following websites: www.coast2coast.co.uk www.coasttocoastguides.co.uk www.coast-to-coast.org.uk For comprehensive and up-to-date information on accommodation and places to eat along the route walkers should refer to a pocket-sized book, the Coast to Coast Bed & Breakfast Accommodation Guide by Doreen Whitehead (£3.00). All the information it contains is also available on www.coasttocoastguides.co.uk, and the book can be ordered from the site.

Another recommended guide is the Coast to Coast Walk Accommodation Guide (£4.95), which lists accommodation along the route and details of tourist information offices, baggage-carrying services, companies offering guided Coast to Coast walks and booking bureaus. This can be ordered from www.coast-to-coast.org.uk.

THE COAST TO COAST WALK WEST TO EAST

Looking down into Grisedale from near Ruthwaite Lodge (Grasmere to Patterdale section)

1 ACROSS LAKELAND ST BEES As if to protect its splendid setting from prying eyes, St Bees lies huddled shyly away in a valley near the sea, a grey village of antiquity and charm. The valley is that of Pow Beck, a direct link with the busy industrialisation of Whitehaven to the north. Approaching from the south, however, it is always with an element of surprise that the village springs into view, from a distance possessing the quiet, unassuming air of a Scottish crofting community in the way the buildings, resting on the backdrop of St Bees Head, seem to lie at one, in harmony with the landscape. On closer inspection we find the village to be larger than expected, and endowed with a history of considerable interest. Its church is the oldest and finest in what was West Cumberland, its school quite ancient, as is its bridge, but of most interest is the story of St Bega, one of much charm and with all the hallmarks of a fairy tale. The earliest record of St Bega is to be found in the Life and Miracles of St Bega the Virgin, now preserved in the British Museum, and dating from the 12th century. Material for this work comes, the author claims, from the narrative of reliable men, a significant comment in the light of latter-day claims that she never really existed. Bega was the daughter of an Irish king, and determined to remain a lifelong virgin, a decision reinforced by a dream in which she received from a stranger an arm-ring bearing the sign of the holy cross. Bega’s father, however, was equally determined she should marry a Norwegian prince, a proposition so abhorrent to Bega that she fled across the sea with a company of nuns seeking peace and solitude, and landed in a wooded region, near present-day St Bees. Here there probably existed a primitive Christian community, for the name Preston, ‘priest town’, was given by Anglians to land between what is now St Bees and Whitehaven. Later, this land was granted to the Priory of St Mary and the Virgin Bega at its foundation in 1120. The industrious effort of Bega and her nuns brought its rewards as slowly they established a nunnery on the site of the present priory church. The nunnery survived two centuries before being plundered by Danish raiders. Much later, after its foundation, the Priory Church of St Mary suffered a similar fate at the hands of Scottish raiders, in due course ending its days in much the same manner as numerous other monastic buildings, under the dissolution decree of Henry VIII.

Crossing South Head, St Bees Although it is claimed by some that Bega was a mythical character arising from the pagan Nordic custom, in vogue in the 9th century, of swearing oaths on a sacred arm-ring, the ‘bracelet of the blessed Virgin Bega, kept in the priory church’ on which oaths were taken, is mentioned in no less than six charters recorded in the early 13th century. The Life and Miracles does not mention that Bega was shipwrecked on the Cumberland coast, or that a

nunnery was founded, these details apparently being added in the 17th century by one Edmund Sandford. Sandford also wrote: ‘There was a pious religious Lady Abbess and some of her sisters driven in by storm at Whitehaven and ship cast away i’the harbour.’ The Abbess begged assistance from the Lady of Egremont whose lord promised the nuns as much land as snow fell upon the next morning ‘bein midsumerday’. In pre-global warming days, snow did indeed often remain as late as mid-summer, and, not surprisingly therefore, though he must have been a little taken aback, the next day the morning saw the land for three miles to the sea covered with snow. ‘And thereupon builded this St Bees Abbie and gave the land was snowen unto it and the town and haven of Whitehaven’ with other dues and further lands. Obviously, a man of his word. The Church of St Mary and St Bega is an exquisite place. Its greatest glory is the west doorway, a deeply recessed, richly columned and decorative portal dating from about 1160, and a splendid example of late Norman work. The church contains a number of late Norman coffin slabs, while in the transept is a beautifully incised effigy of Lady Johanna Lucy, who died in 1369. In the churchyard rest two mutilated 13th-century knights, one bearing a shield with the arms of Ireby upon it. Of more recent times, there is a touching monument of a child of four on a tomb under a recess, a disquieting little figure as she lies asleep, a spray of lilies in her hand. St Bees School, entered through a beautiful memorial gate, was founded in 1583 by Archbishop Edmund Grindal of Canterbury, a native of the district, by virtue of a charter of Queen Elizabeth. At first intended as a free grammar school for local boys only, a restriction it maintained until 1879, it later widened its educational opportunities and opened its doors to others. Buttressed by so much of interest and antiquity on the one hand and the swelling Irish Sea on the other, St Bees is both a fitting and inspiring overture to the walk, and a place to come back to when time is at less of a premium and the sense of urgency and keenness for the impending departure no longer appropriate.

St Bees to Cleator Distance Height Gain

13.6km (8½ miles) 280m (920 feet)

Half a mile or so from the village centre, the beach at St Bees is the recognised starting point for the Coast to Coast Walk. Here the tourist has invaded the scene – tea room, car parks, toilets and a caravan site straggle the coastal frontage, and suddenly for the walker escape becomes a high priority. The first section of the walk is across sandstone clifftops, rare in Cumbria, a fine elevated introduction on which to attune legs, lungs and mind. Beyond the coast the mess of Whitehaven’s industry is passed, thankfully in a brief passage, before the more relaxed agricultural landscape around Cleator that heralds the high fells and deep valleys of Lakeland.

The sea wall, built to protect St Bees from the worst ravages of the sea, ends abruptly in a downfall of boulders and debris from the ever-crumbling cliffs, soon to be encountered. This is where the walk starts. Here cross Rottington Beck and the journey has begun, leaving the beach

behind and climbing by a flight of wooden steps alongside the RSPB St Bees Head Nature Reserve. Height is gained rapidly, and with it, on a clear day, a widening panorama of far horizons. To the south, beyond the towers of Sellafield, rise the whaleback summits of Black Combe and its acolytes, to the east the first tantalising glimpse of high Lakeland fells, while far out to sea, 50km (30+ miles) distant, the blue-purple form of the Isle of Man looms hazily from a shimmering sea. Still ascending by a prominent path, the walk soon reaches the remains of a coastguard lookout post, where the suddenness of the drop to the shore impresses itself noticeably. St Bees Head is formed into two distinct halves, South Head and North Head, separated by the fissure of Fleswick Bay, and as the gradient eases, near the top of South Head, the lighthouse on North Head springs into view. ST BEES HEAD The whole of St Bees Head is formed from shales and sandstone, and dates from comparatively recent times in the geological evolution of the Lake District, between 135 and 225 million years ago. It is by far the most impressive feature on the Cumbrian coast, unless one’s point of view can accord even greater impressiveness to the nuclear power plant at Sellafield!

At a stile the path moves away from the clifftop for a short while to follow the bottom edge of steeply sloping pastures, an easy stroll on flowery turf beside a fence. Here, the openness of the view, the wheeling, swooping company of countless sea birds, and the flitting butterflies, arouse sensations of well-being and contentment, a perfect mental conditioning for what is to follow on the journey eastwards. Along the way a number of protected arenas have been constructed to facilitate observation of the sea birds, which include gannet, kittiwake, fulmar, guillemot, razorbill, puffin and black-backed gulls. For the moment, however, the route lies northwards, easing downwards to Fleswick Bay. Out to sea is the Isle of Man, seemingly cruising along, but going nowhere. FLESWICK BAY Fleswick Bay cuts sharply into St Bees Head, forcing a return almost to sea level. A brief halt would not be unwelcome or unjustified here, even so early in the walk, for the bay is a most beautiful part of the headland, famed for attractive pebbles, hanging terraces of wild flowers, caves, colourful, weathered rocks, and intimate views of towering sea cliffs.

A direct return may be made to the path above Fleswick Bay, without having to retreat inland to the main stile, by locating a series of holds in the rocks ascending to a hurdle/stile. Heavily laden walkers still trying to find their

backpacking legs might wisely opt, however, for rejoining the walk at the inland crossing point. For a few minutes narrow paths slope across the hillside, leading upwards once more. Soon the St Bees lighthouse comes into view, but is never quite reached (without a diversion), the path passing beneath it to another lookout post. Here cross a stile and continue ahead with the headland swinging now to the right, and, far away, Criffel and the hazy hills of Galloway easing into view. Ahead, too, across the wide sweep of Saltom Bay, Whitehaven and its suburbs appear, unavoidably drawing the eye. PRESTON ISLE The great mound of land south of Whitehaven, technically known as Preston Isle, has had enormous influence on the prosperity of the town and its people. Beneath the surface have been found not only extensive coal measures, now largely worked out, but large quantities of anhydrite, or calcium sulphate, which, suitably processed, can be used to manufacture sulphuric acid and cement. This ‘buried treasure’ has meant up to 2000 jobs in the area, and the importance of this, in a district that has known more than its fair share of unemployment, cannot be overestimated. A lighthouse on St Bees Head was first constructed in 1717, though the present structure, its light more than 100m above the sea, was erected in 1866. It is open to visitors by arrangement.

Finally, the route starts to creep round to the east, the direction of our ultimate destination, Robin Hood’s Bay. At a stile at the end of a wall a more prominent path is gained, fenced on the right, and delineated on the left by a sharp drop to a level green pasture suspended halfway down to the seashore. Soon, however, a clifftop path is reached once more, heading towards Whitehaven until, dramatically, it ends at a gate at the very edge of an old quarry, though whether quarrying activity is extinct or on the edge of revival is never quite clear.

The cliffs at St Bees

Go round the quarry to the end of a lane, near some cottages, and here turn right (waymark and signpost ‘To Sandwith’), following the lane to its meeting with a metalled minor roadway leading, left, down to Sandwith. As the road descends easily to the village, the immense spread of Lakeland fells across the horizon presents a tantalising backdrop – Grasmoor, High Stile, Pillar, Steeple, Red Pike and the Scafells separated by the conspicuous gash of Mickledore. A convenient bench at the road junction in Sandwith is temptation for a brief respite, especially with the possibility of refreshments nearby, but first-day enthusiasm will soon have feet treading the road again, left through the village, round by the Dog and Partridge, and up to the junction at Lanehead. Cross the minor road (named ‘Byerstead Road’) and onto a superb green lane leading to Demesne farm. At Demesne farm keep in front of the farm buildings, and then turn right on a farm access track signposted ‘Coast-to-Coast’. Soon the B5345 is crossed to gain a metalled access track leading down towards Bell House farm. Keep on past the farm to cross a cattle-grid, with a splendid view ahead of Stanley Pond in the foreground and the intricate pattern of fields rising far into the distant folds of flowing fells. Shortly after the cattle-grid take a right fork (waymarked) and descend to a gate, beyond which a less pronounced path descends left (also waymarked), keeping on down the field side to a railway underpass. FLORAL RICHNESS Between Sandwith and Cleator we find ourselves threading a tapestry of patterned fields and flowerdecked lanes that try to shrug off the nearby urban influence, and in spring and early summer are sure to have botanists dragging their feet. (Author’s comment: having experienced the walk and its floral richness in its entirety more than once, I’m of the view that botanists might well be advised to keep the days short, add an extra week, and either travel alone or with very understanding and sympathetic friends!)

Once through the underpass, bear half-left across a meadow to a group of trees, and then follow a hedgerow away to a field corner, with Stanley Pond concealed nearby. Follow a fence on the left, the corner of the field proving boggy after rain, to a gate. Keep with the ensuing fence (now on the right) for a while, until the path breaks away to cross the field it borders. More fields follow as the path leads unerringly to another underpass beneath the defunct Cleator Moor to Whitehaven mineral railway. Press on beneath the underpass and then choose from two options. Either (a) ascend easily to a gated access onto the A595 near Scalegill Hall. Keep ahead across the A595 and head for Moor Row along a metalled roadway, and at a T-junction near the post office, turn right. Or (b) immediately after the underpass go up steps on the right to gain the trackbed of the old railway, and follow this as it passes beneath both the A595

and then Scalegill Road to reach Moor Road, where you can turn right again into Dalzell Street. Walk down the street to meet (a) at a T-junction, and there continue ahead. Moor Row is a small industrial village of grey Victorian terraces, in its heyday a busy railway meeting point, operating passenger and mineral lines, now merely a forlorn reminder of past glories.

Now leave the village, climbing steadily. Shortly, over a brow, depart the lane at a kissing-gate on the left giving access to a field. Keep ahead, passing through a succession of gates and crossing another old railway line, until you meet the edge of Cleator at its cricket ground, from where a metalled roadway leads into the main street. In the distance, a little nearer than the main Lakeland fells, a rounded grassy dome has been looming ever larger. This is Dent fell, a Lakeland ‘hors d’oeuvre’, all too soon to be encountered. CLEATOR Cleator, alas, is like so many of the villages that in this part of Lakeland were dependent on mining for their well-being and prosperity, and has clearly seen better days. The growth of the iron-ore industry, and the rapid building of simple, unattractive terraced houses to meet the demands of miners, destroyed much of the village’s former charm and character. Affected as it was, Cleator was not alone in feeling the impact of industrial expansion. Other nearby villages – Frizington, Arlecdon and Cleator Moor – also grew, as between 1840 and 1880 they bore the weight of an increase in population from 835 to 17,651, with the number of miners rising from 60 to over 6000. These mere statistics, largely derived from census returns, however, tell little of the real story that afflicted this proud and beautiful region, a story of social problems like overcrowding and deprivation, of hard men, drinking men, who brought to West Cumberland, be it from Ireland, Scotland, Cornwall, Northumberland, Lancashire and Yorkshire, a social atmosphere more akin to the Klondike days that were yet to beset North America than the north of England. Now all that remains to delay passers-by, apart from the Three Tuns pub, is Cleator’s church, dedicated to St Leonard, built from red sandstone. Though modern in style, the church has elements of Norman handiwork in its chancel walls, and one of the windows depicts the Lady of Egremont and her husband meeting (St) Bega at the castle gate. Unlikely to feature high on tourist itineraries (and is that such a bad thing?), Cleator is nevertheless very much a gateway to Lakeland. Nearby flows the River Ehen, and that, before long, marks the boundary of the Lake District National Park.

Cleator to Ennerdale Bridge Distance Height Gain

8.5km (5.3 miles) 405m (1330 feet)

The walk hastens to leave Cleator behind, and between its sad reminder of times gone by and the approaches to the lake at Ennerdale, it travels a fascinating route that only a few and the curious will know. The dome of Dent is an excellent little fell of great stature on which to rev up for things to come. Dent’s panorama is one of the finest in Lakeland, and its summit a perfect resting place, while beyond lies the quiet valley of Uldale and the secret meeting place of three sparkling, softly murmuring streams. This is Nannycatch Gate, a hidden gem beneath the dark frown of Raven Crag that is sure to call you back when the walk is done.

On reaching the main street in Cleator turn left for a short distance, leaving it, right, into Kiln Brow. Descend until a signpost (‘Fell Road via Nook Farm’) directs you right to the River Ehen and Black How Bridge. Cross the bridge

and, having made but the briefest of acquaintances with the River Ehen, turn left on the access road leading to Black How Farm. Go left just before the farm buildings, and in a short while take a signposted track, right, for Dent, soon to join a metalled roadway. If the weather is truly bad, the road can be used to bypass Dent and get round to Ennerdale Bridge.

Cross the road to a gate giving into Black How Plantation, taking to a broad, gravel track rising into woodland. When you reach a junction, turn left for Dent Fell, now following a narrow path along the edge of a larch plantation. After about 100m, the path swings to the right, and climbs through a firebreak towards Dent Fell. At the top of the plantation, cross a track, and go forward beside a fence, maintaining this direction onto the highest part of the fell. The prominent cairn you see ahead is a shelter, with the very modest cairn that marks the summit another 550m distant across a grassy plateau. DENT FELL Wainwright commented that Dent, ‘impels the… urge to linger awhile’. This a masterpiece of understatement – only the fittest of the fit will feel that lingering is anything like an option. Mere mortals will be obliged to remain collapsed in a heap for some time before taking in the wonders of its vast panorama – laid out like a map of towns and villages, fields and furrows, blue, swelling sea and misty isles, far-off mountains and richly green valleys – while onward beckon the fells.

Just a few strides beyond the cairn, the path starts to descend. Cross a stile, and continue down through an area of cleared plantation to intercept a forest trail at a signpost. The original line of the route went left here, but the descent is steep, and anyone laden with a heavy pack could have difficulty. A safer option is available; it’s still steep, but less demanding. So, turn right, and shortly meet another track. Cross this and go down along the edge of plantation, with more cleared areas to the right. The descending track is steep in places, and requires care, but you get lovely cameos of Uldale framed by trees to take your mind off aching knees. Eventually, the track merges with another running out from Uldale. Go forward along this to another junction, and here turn left, almost immediately leaving the broad trail for a bridleway on the left, passing through a gate, and then following a lovely route through a simple dale, crossing and recrossing a stream in the process. Follow the path until it reaches a gate and stile (known as Nannycatch Gate), beyond which the path divides. Turn right, keeping east of Flat Fell, and when, just after crossing a small stream, the path divides, bear right past a low hillock. The path climbs towards the moorland road, but when it forks bear sharp right to go up to the road. Kinniside Stone Circle lies a short distance to the left, on the other side of the road.

KINNISIDE STONE CIRCLE Kinniside is a small stone circle on the road that runs between Calder Bridge and Ennerdale Bridge. It is not an original prehistoric site, but a 1925 creation of 11 stones around a circle with an 18m diameter.

On reaching the fell road, turn left and walk past the stone circle, and then allow gravity to draw you down to Ennerdale Bridge, bearing right at a junction finally to reach the village, and to renew that earlier brief acquaintance with the River Ehen. Most walkers will find Ennerdale an appropriate conclusion to the first day, while those bound for youth hostels have a little distance yet to go before they can put their heads down for the night. ENNERDALE BRIDGE Things have changed in Ennerdale Bridge since one traveller described the pub as ‘small, dirty, and filled with roaring tipplers’ – and that at nine in the morning! The village now sees few visitors, its general inaccessibility ensuring that the throngs don’t inadvertently stumble upon it. Thankfully, it remains a quiet farming and forestry retreat, well known and loved by local people, but never likely to figure highly on tourist itineraries. In prehistoric times, iron was smelted here, and much later haematite was mined along the valley of Ennerdale. There were also a number of small industries here related to weaving, and Ennerdale Bridge grew as a result.

Ennerdale Water and Crag Fell

The Church of St Mary was built between 1856 and 1858 on the site of a medieval chapel, and enlarged in 1885.

Ennerdale Bridge to Black Sail Youth Hostel Distance Height Gain

14km (8¾ miles) 190m (625 feet)

The next stage of the walk ventures into the long recess of Ennerdale, going along the southern shores of its lake until forced to the northern flank for comparatively easy progress to the isolated, but splendidly set, Black Sail Youth Hostel. Most walkers starting from Ennerdale Bridge will find this too short a day, and opt to push on to Seatoller or Rosthwaite. Walkers with relatively little experience of longdistance walking may, however, detect the wisdom in electing to inject a couple of short days (the next day, too, to Rosthwaite or Langstrath would be short) into the proceedings at this early stage to allow body and soul to ‘acclimatise’, instead of slogging onwards remorselessly.

Leave Ennerdale Bridge along the minor road for Croasdale, turning right after about 700m to follow a zigzagging road to meet the River Ehen again. Go left after a car park on the site of a pumping station, and follow a broad track to the foot of Ennerdale Water. Here, turn right along the southern shore of the lake. The sudden impact of Ennerdale’s lake as you reach its edge is outstanding, a wonderful and dramatic moment. A good path flirts along its shores, within stepping distance of the water, and continues uneventfully until its encounter with the cliffs of Angler’s Crag. Energetic souls may opt for a steeply ascending path, encountered a little before Angler’s Crag, crossing the top of the crag, a splendid viewpoint, before descending steeply on the other side. A more pronounced way takes a lower line, and clambers through the fractured base of the crag with much less expenditure of energy. ‘ROBIN HOOD’S CHAIR’ A small headland juts out into the lake at this point. This is known as ‘Robin Hood’s Chair’, a fanciful connection, but of interest to Coast-to-Coasters, linking as it does with the final destination, and, for that matter, with his alleged grave, encountered on the crossing of Crosby Ravensworth Fell a few days hence.

Once beyond the hiatus of Angler’s Crag the path (intermittently paved) continues without incident to the head of the lake, following a track sweeping round to join the broad forest trail on the northern side of the valley at Irish Bridge, beneath the minor summit of Latterbarrow and not far from Gillerthwaite Youth Hostel. The route now follows a simple and direct route, first by metalled roadway and then by forest trail, to a gate leading finally from the forest along the final few metres to Black Sail Youth Hostel. En route, Low Gillerthwaite is encountered, a field centre, and then High Gillerthwaite, a camping barn. ENNERDALE

Hitherto glimpsed and suspected, the immensity of the valley head now proclaims itself, as first the massive wall, the ridges and green coves of Pillar, and then the bold forms of Kirk Fell and the Gables, Green and Great, begin to dominate the scene. The chance find, in 1947, of the site of a Neolithic axe factory in Langdale, from which items have been carbon-dated to between 2700 and 2500BC, and the finding of finished artefacts in Ireland, Scotland and southern England, has led to speculation that Ennerdale, reached via Aaron Slack and Windy Gap (between Great and Green Gable), was the route prehistoric man took to reach the coast. Much later, the area, especially around upper Ennerdale, was a medieval deer forest under the control of the monks at St Bees, while from 1810 comes the tale of ‘T’girt Dog’ of Ennerdale, something of a cross between a mastiff and a greyhound and weighing eight stone. For months it ranged from Cockermouth to Ravenglass, St Bees to Wasdale Head, defying all attempts to capture and kill it, and savaged hundreds of sheep, often wantonly destroying seven or eight sheep in one night before finally it was slain. There is no denying the beauty of Ennerdale. Edwin Waugh, a notable Lancashire poet, and at his best when revelling in the wild and stormy side of nature, wrote a most evocative description of the lake in his Rambles in the Lake Country. Of a moonlit visit he penned: In this sheltered corner little eddies of shimmering silver flit about, – the dainty Ariels of moonlit water; there, is a burnished islet of stirless brilliance, in which even the moon smiles to see herself look so passing fair; and, out beyond, the wide waters are in a tremulous fever of delight with her sweet influence… If there be magic in the world, it is this! Nor did Cumberland’s own poet, Wordsworth, neglect the place, remote as it was from his Grasmere home. In The Brothers he cast a spell over Ennerdale and the monolith of Pillar Rock, writing: You see yon precipice; it wears the shape Of a vast building made of many crags, And in the midst is one particular rock That rises like a column from the vale, Whence by our shepherds it is called the Pillar. Pillar Rock, thankfully you might say, is not on the route of the Coast to Coast Walk, but its presence draws the eye for quite a while as the way ventures deeper and deeper into the valley. Its parent mountain, Pillar, is a ‘mighty mass of natural Gothic architecture’, a monument to nature’s creation.

Great Gable and Green Gable from upper Ennerdale Above Ennerdale Water is the River Liza, its name thought to have derived from the Icelandic river Lysá, meaning ‘the bright water’, and suggestive of the area having been settled by Norsemen. The tumbling waters of the Liza, half-hidden among ferns and trees, are a bold contrast with the high fells that look down on it.

Black Sail Youth Hostel to Borrowdale (Rosthwaite) Distance Height Gain

8.8km (5½ miles) 340m (1115 feet)

Black Sail Youth Hostel, surely, lies in one of the most dramatic and awe-inspiring locations in the Lake District, a perfect base for mountain adventurers wanting to cut their teeth on the ring of craggy, challenging summits that surround it. Well-established routes leave the youth hostel for the heights, though none of the principal lines is used by the Coast to Coast Walk, which prefers the crumbly confines of Loft Beck before swinging high across the flanks of Brandreth and Grey Knotts to the top of Honister Pass. For walkers this is the first moment of real challenge, the first opportunity to come to grips with the mountain uplands of Lakeland, and not a place to linger if the weather is turning for the worse.

On leaving Black Sail Youth Hostel, do not be misled by the rather more prominent path heading for a footbridge across the Liza and Black Sail Pass. Instead, take a narrow path, becoming clearer, to arrive at the foot of Loft Beck, the location of which is not in doubt, and occurs just a short distance above its confluence with Tongue Beck. Cross Loft Beck and begin the steep pull to the shoulder of fells above. On a warm day the beck is something of a heat trap, but the retrospective views are adequate justification for taking the climb easy. At the top of Loft Beck a line of cairns directs the path to easier ground, with the summits of Brandreth and Grey Knotts ahead. If you intend staying at Honister, or even Seatoller, you may want to consider ‘bagging’ this pair of fairly easy summits – then again, you may not. Gradually the path veers away from these outliers of the Gables as a more prominent path looms ahead. This is Moses’ Trod, a long-established trail from Honister to Wasdale and beyond. Away to the left, a delightful view of the Buttermere valley opens up, framed between the heights of the High Stile range and Fleetwith Pike. MOSES’ TROD Moses’ Trod, or more correctly, Moses’ Sledgate, is an old slate road across which Honister slate was transported to Wasdale and out to Ravenglass on the coast. Fragments of green Honister slate may still be found along its length. Rather more romantically, it is said to have been named after an illicit whisky distiller who had his still concealed among the surrounding crags. Whether there ever was a still remains uncertain, for there is a theory that Moses was a quarryman at Honister who smuggled plumbago (graphite) as a sideline, perhaps distilling whisky after his day’s work. During the 18th century, Borrowdale plumbago was very much at a premium, and smuggling likely to have been a profitable business. Either way the trod serves a useful and convenient purpose for Coast-to-Coasters bound for Honister, and the name of Moses, for his sins or otherwise, lives on, remembered by every walker who places foot on Moses’ Trod.

Before long the route collides with the trod at a large cairn, and continues an

easy descent northwards (left) to the remains of the tramway and Drum House that served the Dubs Quarry. Here turn right, descending even more steeply for a while to reach the defunct slate quarry buildings at the top of one of Lakeland’s better known motor passes, Honister. HONISTER QUARRY Honister Slate Mine is still being worked, producing high-quality Honister slate. If you have time, you could join one of the guided visits. Working conditions at the quarry used to be extremely harsh and dangerous. Slate was brought down to the knapping sheds on hurdles, or trail-barrows, which had two inclining handles (‘stangs’) at the front between which the man would position himself, going, like a horse, before the weight. These contraptions weighed as much as 80lb empty, and it took the men half an hour of laborious effort to carry them back to the quarries in the honeycomb of tunnels above. The subsequent laden descent, unbelievably, was only a matter of minutes, depending on skill, dexterity and good fortune. Remarkable tales are found of men who worked in the quarries in the 19th century: Samuel Trimmer once made 15 journeys in a day for a bottle of rum and a small percentage of the slate he sledged, and Joseph Clarke of Stonethwaite, who made 17 journeys, bringing down each time 640lb of slate, a total of 10,880lb in one day. ‘His greatest day’s work,’ writes Harriet Martineau, ‘was bringing 11,771 pounds; in how many journeys it is not remembered: but in fewer than seventeen.’ This highly dangerous method of obtaining slate was ended in 1881, when a gravitational railway was introduced. Quarry workers, like drystone wallers, often lived during the week in small huts on the hillsides, going home only from Saturday night until Monday morning, and while away, communicating with their wives by carrier pigeons. Now from Honister thoughts turn to Borrowdale, that most loved and popular of Lakeland’s valleys.

From the summit of the pass follow the descending motor road until a former highway, now abandoned, branches off on the left. This was a toll road, and provides a traffic-free descent to Seatoller, reaching the tiny village through enclosures. Descend through the village and turn left into the car park, leaving it by a stile at its far end to follow a track branching right (ignore the ascending track at this point). The track runs above the Derwent below Johnny’s Wood to reach Longthwaite Youth Hostel. Past the youth hostel, follow an access road over a humpback bridge spanning the River Derwent, and then choose from two options.

Cottages at Stonethwaite

Either (a) follow the road beyond for a short distance to a footpath on the left. Continue past a number of small cottages and through another gate to enter a pasture of low scrub, following a fence and then a wall to a gate. Once through the gate turn right to a metalled road, and then left to follow the road round until the main road through the valley is reached. The village centre lies just to the right. Or (b) (if not staying at Rosthwaite, and wanting to press on) keep ahead, once over the bridge, to meet the valley road near a side road leading down to the hamlet of Stonethwaite. Go down this road and into the hamlet, turning left at the telephone to access a walled track that leads to a bridge, beyond which you rejoin the main route by turning right, heading for Grasmere via Greenup Edge. ROSTHWAITE Rosthwaite, the ‘capital’ of Borrowdale, is a small, peaceful community flanking the roadside. Unwittingly, Sir Hugh Walpole, has, however, planted the seeds of discord, for at least three houses claim to be the ‘original’ of Rogue Herries’ Farm. At a more prosaic level, it is a fine end to a day that might have started as far away as Ennerdale Bridge, and a good spot to prepare for the next day, and, as Wainwright puts it, ‘… a rare chance to sleep in Arcadia’. BORROWDALE Borrowdale lies at the very heart of Lakeland, its great length probing far into the ‘turbulent chaos of mountain behind mountain, rolled in confusion…’ that greeted Thomas Gray when, the day after his arrival at Keswick on 2 October 1769, he ‘rose at seven, and walked out under the conduct of [his] landlord to Borrowdale’. It is the most beautiful of valleys, a tangled landscape of craggy precipices, verdant woodlands, vivid green pasturelands fed by sparkling rivers and streams, white cottages and rustic farm buildings, all in a setting of nature’s own perfection. Journalist Bernard Levin once observed, during his trek In Hannibal’s Footsteps, that any ‘varied landscape, provided it is not marred by hideous… manmade

objects… is beautiful’, commenting how this suggested that ‘the harmonies of nature are so powerful that no matter what instruments they are played on, in what combinations and at what relative strengths, the result will be pleasing.’ He noted, too, that ‘if the manmade objects… are not ugly and do blend well… nature absorbs them into the picture and they actually enhance its beauty. ‘Nowhere is that perception better exemplified than in Borrowdale. Sadly, the walk’s acquaintance with these Elysian fields is all too brief – no sooner does it enter Borrowdale than it departs into the cleavage of Stonethwaite valley.

Rosthwaite to Grasmere (Goody Bridge) via Far Easedale Distance Height Gain

11.3km (7 miles) 530m (1740 feet)

The section of the walk between Rosthwaite and Patterdale can be accomplished in one day, though two would be better, with an overnight halt at or near Grasmere. Speed of progress is the obvious, and only, tolerable reason for pushing across in one day, but bear in mind that the climb up to Greenup Edge, although largely a constructed affair these days, is quite steep in places, and tiring. Whatever choice you make, there is beauty throughout.

Flower fields at the edge of Greenup Gill

If electing to stay in Grasmere, a fine variant makes use of the long ridge leading to Helm Crag, descending from there to the village. This is detailed on pages 45–7. Leave Rosthwaite as if heading for Keswick, but in only a few strides, at the edge of the village, turn right at the entrance to Hazel Bank Hotel on a public bridleway (signposted ‘Stonethwaite’ and ‘Watendlath’). The path leads to an arched footbridge spanning Stonethwaite Beck, beyond which you turn right on a signposted footpath to Stonethwaite. An intermittently enclosed path now runs alongside the beck for a while, later becoming a field path leading to

Stonethwaite Bridge.

From the high point of the path the view ahead to Eagle Crag opens up, while to the right may be picked out the summits of Base Brown, Green Gable and Lingmell, the latter rising directly behind the great white mare’s tail of Taylorgill Force.

At Stonethwaite Bridge the path continues ahead (signposted ‘Grasmere via Greenup Edge’) to the source of Stonethwaite Beck, lavish product of Greenup Gill and Langstrath Beck. Cascades here form delightful company, notably Galleny Force just below the confluence, while the encompassing scenery is so extravagantly beautiful and inspiring you could almost believe nature is showing off! This is Lakeland at its best. With the show of cascades beyond the dark frown of Eagle Crag increasing with every step, the landscape becomes more austere. As the sound of waterfalls is left behind, the path springs upon an unsuspected corrie, a vast green bowl carved by glaciers and filled with moraine, high in the hills, beneath the summit of High Raise. Nearby, glaciersmoothed Lining Crag stands sentinel over this lonely spot, and is approached on a steepening path, and then passed on a steep path to its left (as you look at it), which must have shed a gallon or two of perspiration in the making, just as it does now in the walking, especially on a hot day. In the event, the top of Lining Crag is a lovely resting point – what Victorian walkers might call a ‘belvedere’. Once above Lining Crag most of the uphill work is done. An indistinct path leads across frequently boggy ground to traverse Greenup Edge to the head of Wyth Burn. This is confusing in mist, so don’t just go charging into it – a compass bearing will be helpful. A descending path then traverses a boggy shelf before climbing to meet the grassy col of Far Easedale Head at a redundant fenceline. The ensuing descent into Far Easedale, although the main route, need only be followed if time is of the essence, or in bad weather (the variant via Helm Crag is described below). The route is never in doubt – it begins from an old fence post as a stepped descent initially bearing right, into the head of the dale, and working a lovely way down to a footbridge spanning Far Easedale Gill at Stythwaite Steps – Stythwaite being the old name for the lower part of Far Easedale. This is a rough and pleasant walk largely in the company of Far Easedale Gill, and leads to the head of a surfaced lane at Little Parrock cottage. THE GREENE FAMILY TRAGEDY Over on the right-hand side of the dale, small farm cottages sit tight against the fells for protection. Some were once the home of the Greene family, far-from-affluent farmers, two of whom died in a snow storm while returning from a sale in Langdale. Unable to find their way home, the parents lived out their final moments in the storm. Meanwhile, their eldest daughter, Sally, no more than a child herself, took charge of her siblings, tended the fire, milked the cows and pressed on with the work of their farm until the storm abated. Once the alarm was raised, the dead parents were soon found on the ridge above

Blindtarn Moss.

Keep along the lane as it crosses a wide stretch of meadowland, and then continues to the outskirts of Grasmere at Goody Bridge. Walkers continuing to Grasmere should simply follow the road ahead from Goody Bridge, entering the village centre directly. Variant via Helm Crag From the head of the dale, a more entertaining alternative is available in the form of the long ridge on the north side of Far Easedale, passing over Gibson Knott to the summit of Helm Crag. A prominent, narrow path runs out from the fence post at Far Easedale Head to pass first round Calf Crag before continuing in entertaining fashion to Gibson Knott and, beyond the dip to Bracken Hause, a final steep flourish to the chaotic topknot of Helm Crag. Though never in question, the path does not always visit the various minor summits, but simply presses on its determined and enterprising way, keen to gaze down on the beauty that is the Vale of Grasmere. HELM CRAG The summit rocks of Helm Crag are an amazing array of pinnacles and tilted rock slabs, many of which, over the years, have attracted names. Indeed, Helm Crag is probably, visually at least, the best known of all the Lakeland summits, instantly identified by everyone who continues north from Grasmere bound for Dunmail Raise. One of its formations, viewed from the vicinity of Grasmere, is immediately recognisable and universally known as the ‘Lion and the Lamb’, truly one of the most distinguished of Lakeland tops. Also named is the summit rock itself, known, for obvious reasons when seen at close quarters, as the ‘Howitzer’. I would encourage anyone who wants to claim to have ‘conquered’ Helm Crag at least to touch its very top, but to discourage everyone, including the most hare-brained, from actually attempting to stand on it!

Far Easedale

Much less obvious when standing next to them, the Lion and the Lamb are passed by as the summit is left. Keep on along the path, soon descending quite steeply and requiring careful placing of feet. Lower down, a broad grassy path appears on the right, and this is the way to go. It appears to be going the wrong way, heading back into Far Easedale. But it is correct, and later is seen to sweep round to the left to face towards Grasmere. Keep following this down (even up at one point!), and eventually it drops to meet a wall in the valley bottom. Go right for a short distance, as far as a clear walled gap on the left. Go through this and soon join the main valley route, bearing left to a gate and out to the cottage at Little Parrock. Now simply follow the surfaced lane all the way to Goody Bridge. Those bound for Grasmere need simply keep ahead at Goody Bridge. Those bound for Mill Bridge should turn left here, along the side road signed for Thorney How Youth Hostel. GRASMERE Approaching from Dunmail Raise, Thomas Gray wrote of Grasmere, ‘The bosom of the mountains, spreading here into a broad bason, discover in the midst Grasmere-water; its margin is hollowed into small bays with iminences; some of rock, some of soft turf, that half conceal and vary the figure of the little lake they command… a little unsuspected Paradise.’ Thirty years later it was William Wordsworth who came this way, concluding that one day this place, ‘Must be his home, this valley be his world…’.

The attractions of Grasmere are still many, as are the tourists that in summer flock to the village on their respective quests. Valiantly, the village struggles to retain its dignity and charm above the rising tide of visitors, teased in by holiday brochures and coach tour operators to find pleasure and enjoyment in crowded streets, amid jostling throngs, and souvenirs galore. Only in winter, when the last of the daytrippers has gone, does any semblance return of how life might have seemed in Gray’s and Wordsworth’s time, the still pall of wood smoke lying frozen above an ice-held lake, sunlight filtering through icy, crystal fingers, black ravens winging businesslike above the bracken-brown fells.

Grasmere (Goody Bridge) to Patterdale Distance Height Gain

11km (7 miles) 505m (1655 feet)

Walkers who stayed overnight in Grasmere will need to retreat the short distance to Goody Bridge to resume the journey eastwards from the point at which it was left. It is perfectly feasible simply to walk up the main A591, but the quiet back road from Goody Bridge has much charm and provides a fine prospect of the onward route.

Between Grasmere and Patterdale there is little to tax walkers who have accomplished the crossing thus far without difficulty – a simple, high-level mountain pass lies in wait, beyond which a long and invigorating descent leads to the valley of Patterdale. At Goody Bridge leave Easedale Road by turning onto the narrow and scenic road running past Thorney How Youth Hostel. The beauty of this road, in preference to walking up the A591 from Grasmere, lies in its elevation above the Vale of Grasmere, and the view it affords of the western flanks of the Fairfield Horseshoe, Seat Sandal, and the waterfalls just below Grisedale Hause that flag the onward route. However, it is a narrow road and you should take care against approaching traffic. The road leads to Low Mill Bridge, spanning the River Rothay. Turn right at a T-junction to cross the bridge and ascend to the main valley road at Mill Bridge. Cross the busy road and take a bridleway (signposted ‘Patterdale’) running alongside attractive cottages, becoming enclosed between walls and climbing to a gate. Beyond the gate the path continues to climb for a while, then levels as it

approaches a group of sheep enclosures at the tip of Great Tongue. Two possibilities here present themselves: one to take a path climbing left, via Little Tongue Gill, the other opting for a path going right, across Tongue Gill.

Ascending by Tongue Gill

The green path of Little Tongue Gill is a route by which Victorian visitors would travel on ponies to the summit of Helvellyn. This climbs rather tediously until it levels to cross the flank of Seat Sandal. The ascent by Tongue Gill, generally regarded as the line of the Coast to Coast Walk, is much more entertaining – it crosses Little Tongue Gill first, by a footbridge or a ford, and then Tongue Gill itself, rising then in easy stages. Gradually the path approaches the waterfalls near the head of the gill and arrives at a rock step, climbed by a series of ledges and a rough path. Throughout much of this ascent there is an ever-improving retrospective view to Crinkle Crags and the Langdale Pikes, Wetherlam and the Old Man of Coniston.

Cross the stream ahead, and climb a constructed pathway across rough ground to a false col, beyond which lies a shallow hollow that probably once held a lake. Continue rockily around its left edge and climb easily to Grisedale Hause. GRISEDALE HAUSE At Grisedale Hause a vastly different prospect opens up. Hitherto the views have all been retrospective, but now it is time to look forward across the great bowl that houses Grisedale Tarn to what lies ahead, as we slowly (there is no hurry just yet!) start to leave behind the great rugged heights of central Lakeland and head for the sublime traverse of limestone country and the dales of Yorkshire. Grisedale Tarn is an ideal place for a pause, deep set beneath the fellsides of Dollywaggon Pike, Fairfield and Seat Sandal, a setting wild and grand, with a true mountain atmosphere, though none of the surrounding heights presents its best profile to the lonely lake. T.S. Tschiffeley, in his Bridle Paths Through England, said of Grisedale Tarn that it ‘brought back memories of the highlands of Bolivia and Peru’. Perhaps it did, for it is a fine jewel in a fine crown, on a still evening faithfully mirroring the surrounding hills. There is a legend about Grisedale Tarn that into it Duvenald (corrupted to Dunmail), King of Strathclyde, of which north Cumbria was a part, cast his crown, ceremoniously rejecting his insignia of royalty before

taking to the pilgrim’s staff. Some claim that Dunmail lies buried, slain by Saxons, beneath the cairn at the head of the nearby pass that bears his name. Alas, reality, as ever, destroys the myth, for it is known he died peacefully in bed in Rome. Around this legend Graham Sutton, author of a number of novels about Lakeland, spun a chilling short story entitled Dusk below Helvellyn.

From Grisedale Hause descend a stony path to cross the outflow of the tarn and traverse half-left to begin the descent into the long reaches of Grisedale. A number of paths lead away from the outflow of the tarn to a large cairn at the start of the descent. Make for this and then pursue the downward trail, rocky underfoot but never in doubt, as far as the ruins of Ruthwaite Lodge. RUTHWAITE LODGE After only a few minutes descent it is possible to deviate right for a moment to visit ‘Brothers Parting’, where one of Wordsworth’s poems (all but illegible now) is carved in a rock tablet, commemorating the Lakeland parting of Wordsworth from his brother John, captain of the Earl of Abergavenny, in which he perished in 1805.

Ruthwaite Lodge Ruthwaite Lodge, once a shooting hut and later the property of the Sheffield University Climbing Club, for a long time lay in fire-razed ruins on a sheltered plateau beneath Nethermost Cove. Now, however, it has been restored and dedicated to the memory of two instructors from Outward Bound Ullswater, who perished on the slopes of Mount Cook in New Zealand in 1988.

Press on beyond the lodge, descending a little abruptly for a while until the path forks. Either path will now take you to Grisedale. The one on the right is the conventional and rather speedier route down the valley, but sometimes suffers from the gloom cast upon it by the towering bulk of St Sunday Crag. The path heads down to cross Grisedale Beck, beyond which a clear, and later, broad track leads all the way down the valley. But, by going left at the fork and across a wooden bridge spanning the stream flowing from Ruthwaite Cove instead, a more satisfying descent may be made keeping to the north side of the valley, twisting and turning, and undulating from time to time until, finally, the path meets that descending (on the left) from Striding Edge, at a wall corner. Take the right-hand gate of two, dropping across a steep pasture to another gate, beyond which an access track leads to a bridge spanning Grisedale Beck, and the main valley route.

St Sunday Crag (left) and the fells at the head of Grisedale

Here a metalled road is reached, and followed easily to meet the A592 at Grisedale Bridge, there turning right into Patterdale village. This is the easier option. Part way down the metalled road, however, a gate and footpath sign on the right mark a minor variant finish to Patterdale village, through delightful Glenamara Park, as follows. Variant Go up through the gate to a step-stile above, and over it bear left on a clear path that curves round to cross Hag Beck. Beyond, the path continues clearly to a kissing-gate at the edge of a small birch woodland, after which it divides. Branch right through the woodland, and finally go right again at the rear of properties in Patterdale to emerge on the valley road near the White Horse pub. PATTERDALE The dale that we today call Patterdale is said to be named after St Patrick, one of three famous missionaries (the others were St Ninian and St Kentigern) believed by some to have travelled in this region on evangelical missions during the early years of the fifth century. Little is clear about the growth of Christianity at this time, for it was a troubled era. The Roman Empire, preoccupied with problems at home, was withdrawing all Roman units from its Cumbrian forts, and an intense period of tribal strife was to follow. Patrick, thought to have been born in the Solway region around the year 389, was raised in the Christian faith. At the age of 16 he had the misfortune, along with ‘male and female slaves of his father’s house’, to be captured by Irish pirates. He was taken to Ireland where he was obliged to work as a cattle herd. During his time in captivity his faith deepened until, after six years of slavery, he experienced visions and heard angelic voices urging him to return to his own country to spread the word of Christ, a calling which on his escape and return to England he dutifully obeyed, travelling far into the mountains to convert the natives. Patterdale, St Patrick’s Dale, is known to have been an area of a well-established, if scattered, British settlement, and an obvious target for the young man’s task, though there remains even today a strongly held view that he never came near the place!

Looking down on Patterdale The modern village, described in Baddeley’s Guide to the English Lake District as ‘one of the most charmingly situated in Britain, and in itself clean and comely’, lies at the southern end of Ullswater. Unspoiled by the livelier atmosphere that draws non-walking day-trippers to nearby Glenridding, Patterdale maintains a serene aloofness, content to cater for those who come to enjoy the relative peace and quiet of its surroundings. Little has changed here over the years. Encircled by rugged heights, and with the beauty of arguably Lakeland’s finest lake close by, the village pursues life placidly, keeping sacrosanct its typical Lakeland characteristics. One such characteristic, as Frank Singleton, author of The English Lakes, put it, is that it ‘establishes a great hold on the affections of those who visit it… there is everything here from the silence of the lake and the lonely places among the hills to the busy humanity of the village.’ Many of these remote villages were often presided over by one family. In Patterdale it was the Mounseys, described as the ‘kings’ of Patterdale, who lived at Patterdale Hall, now extensively rebuilt, but dating from around 1677. Even among such local ‘royalty’ all was not sweetness and light, however, for Dorothy Wordsworth, in her journal for 21 December 1801, gives a little insight into life at Patterdale Hall, writing, ‘When we were at Thomas Ashburner’s on Sunday Peggy talked about the Queen of Patterdale. She had been brought to drinking by her husband’s unkindness and avarice. She was formerly a very nice tidy woman. She had taken to drinking but that was better than if she had taken to something worse (by this I suppose she meant killing herself). She said that her husband used to be out all night with other women and she used to hear him come in the morning, for they never slept together…’.

Patterdale to Shap Distance Height Gain

24km (15 miles) 762m (2500 feet)

The great upland mass of the High Street range stands between Patterdale and the end of the next day at Shap, a kind of ‘sleeping policeman’ before the Lake District finally releases its hold and allows the walk to head for Yorkshire. Obligingly, this section puts all the hard work into the first half, allowing a less demanding conclusion in which to appreciate the gradual change of scenery that heralds the approach to Shap and the margins of limestone country.

Walkers reaching Patterdale at Grisedale Bridge should turn right along the road, and pass by the church to reach a broad track on the left, alongside the George Starkey Memorial Hut. The track is signposted ‘Howtown’ and ‘Boredale’, and leads to a bridge spanning Goldrill Beck, beyond which it continues to Side Farm. Once past the farm turn right on a broad path (slate signpost ‘Angle Tarn’ and ‘Boredale Hause’) and start to climb a little, heading for the scattered farm buildings and cottages of Rooking. Walkers who entered Patterdale through Glenamara Park and Mill Moss should leave the village by the side road just south of the White Lion Hotel, swinging round to the left to end at a corner, meeting the above route at a gate giving access to the open fell. The path now climbs steeply, right, for a short while to a fork. Both the ensuing paths lead with minimal effort to Boredale Hause, with nothing to choose between them, except that the left fork leads to an old iron bench

(dated 1897) from which to take in the green loveliness of the valley below and the rugged heights just traversed, of Striding Edge and Helvellyn, Nethermost Pike and Dollywaggon Pike. As the route approaches Boredale Hause this retrospective view, by no means yet finished with, is particularly outstanding. Overlooked by the broad spread of nearby Place Fell, Boredale Hause shelters the remains of a chapel, these days looking very much like a ruined sheepfold. Take care here not to wander off along the wrong track, especially that descending to Martindale. As the hause is reached, cross a small beck, right, on to a prominent path. By a series of twists, turns and undulations, the path works steadfastly in and out of hollows and around grassy hillocks until, as Angletarn Pikes first come into view, there is a splendid framed view down to Brotherswater, and beyond to the sinuous line of Kirkstone Pass. The path continues easily, passes beneath Angletarn Pikes, and then rounds a corner to spring dramatically upon Angle Tarn itself. Away to the right the great spread of the Fairfield and Helvellyn massifs sweeps round in a craggy arc. The path descends easily to the tarn, following its edge to climb again with ever increasing views westwards to a level stretch of ground approaching Satura Crag. Thornthwaite Crag is the conspicuous summit directly ahead, viewed end on. Go through a gate and pass beneath Satura Crag, where the broad expanse of the fells still to be climbed rolls across the horizon. Beyond Satura Crag, muddy ground and an undulating path (these days improved by the use of stone slabs), crossing Prison Gill and Sulphury Gill, lead to the final ascent to The Knott, merging with a path ascending from Hartsop and Hayeswater just below the summit at a wall corner. In good visibility it is a simple and rewarding prospect to cross the top of Rampsgill Head before heading for Kidsty Pike. This minor deviation would rob Kidsty Pike of the distinction of being the highest point crossed by the walk, but provides a stunning view northwards down the length of Ramps Gill. Otherwise, stay with the path passing round The Knott (a slight diversion is needed if you want to add the summit to the walk) and continue towards a depression known as the Straits of Riggindale. Just before the lowest point is reached, turn abruptly left on a good path skirting the rim of the steep drop to Riggindale. HIGH STREET This is a fascinating spot, bold in its architecture, with sweeping fellsides dropping to the valley below, and the arrow-straight thrust of Rough Crag on the right opposed by Kidsty Pike’s flanks of crag and scree. Across this narrow strait the Roman legions threaded their ‘High Street’, their loftiest highway in the country, reaching almost 830m (2700 feet) on the whaleback summit that now bears its name. The road linked forts at Galava, Ambleside, and Brocavum (Brougham) at the confluence of the Lowther and

Eamont rivers, built, it has been suggested, to prevent the people of Hartsop, Deepdale, Glencoyndale and Bannerdale from joining forces with the tribesmen in Mardale, Bampton and Askham to attack the fort at Brougham. Whether that is so remains unclear – indeed, there is some doubt the Romans were even the original route-finders. A Langdale axe found near Troutbeck suggests a prehistoric route across the mountains to the Neolithic and Bronze Age settlements among the limestone hills of east Westmorland. Many similar axes from Langdale have been found along the River Humber – in fact Humberside has the greatest concentration in Britain of Langdale axe finds. This all suggests that a ‘trade route’ was pioneered across these fells more than 2000 years before the Romans. Whatever the truth, the Roman High Street remains as a lasting memorial to the skill and endurance of the Roman engineers and ‘navvies’ who, far from the comforts of home, built and patrolled it in all weathers.

The path curves uneventfully above Riggindale to the sharp summit of Kidsty Pike, a profile recognisable from as far away as the M6 motorway, but on closer inspection a sham in terms of independent grandeur as a mountain, for in reality it is no more than a bump on the shoulder of Rampsgill Head. No such falsehood for its setting, however – nothing could be finer, a perfect place to rest awhile after the exertions of the pull from Patterdale. WILDLIFE Silent and observant walkers may be privileged to spot here some of the deer that roam freely upwards across the fells from their sanctuary in Martindale, or the hardy, half-wild fell ponies that wander through even the most bitter of winters. Rough fell sheep scrounge scraps of food and nuzzle into your sac (if you let them), and, from time to time, the lone, furtive shape of a fox skulks along beneath the crags. Most thrilling of all, however, is the effortless flight of Lakeland’s golden eagles, which returned to this region after an absence lasting more than one and a half centuries. It was from the slopes of Rough Crag that I first came eye to eye, literally, with a golden eagle, as it slid lazily by less than 50 feet away. Wondering whether eagles ever looked on writers as an al fresco snack, I lay motionless, totally in awe of its supreme mastery of the air. The moment was an experience that was long to remain foremost in my memory, until, many years later in the Pyrenees, I was rather too closely ‘surveyed’ by a griffon vulture.

Haweswater north shore

As the walk crosses from Patterdale to Mardale, Kidsty Pike offers one last lingering look back to the central stronghold of Lakeland, shortly to be left behind for the softer, more gentle, but no less endearing, attractions of the Yorkshire Dales and limestone country.

With, then, one final glance of farewell, descend the long east ridge of Kidsty Pike. The going is simple, and the line more distinct now than of old. After a brief skirmish with the rocky upthrust of Kidsty Howes (keep to the left) the route drops swiftly to the shores of Haweswater, reaching the reservoir near the site of Riggindale Farm, a casualty of the flooding of the valley in the 1930s. Go left at the foot of the ridge, across a bridge spanning Randale Beck, and then down the entire length of Haweswater on a clear path throughout, until Burnbanks is reached. HAWESWATER There is little along the walk to Burnbanks to detract from the pervading air of calm. It is a quiet, restful interlude, a time for reflecting on footsteps past, an oasis in the rigours of a long walk where we may replenish our spiritual as well as physical reserves, plodding on peaceably. Haweswater, once of modest proportions, was in the 1930s enlarged to provide water for Manchester, and with it ended an era, for the building of the dam brought the demise of a number of valley farmsteads, and of Mardale itself, a tiny village with the legendary Dun Bull Inn, that now only those with long memories will recall. Passage of time has refashioned the harsh lines of man’s intrusions, though drought conditions still lay bare the skeletal remains of the village, where visitors with vulturine instincts plunder the walls and buildings for souvenirs that would be better left to rest in peace. Of Haweswater, Baddeley, who in an early edition of his Guide to the English Lake District described the Dun Bull Inn as having ‘lately been enlarged and now offers very fair accommodation’, later claims, ‘There is no aping of the grandeur of Windermere, the loveliness of Derwentwater, or the wildness of Wastwater, but – although it is a reservoir and somewhat artificial – not to have seen Haweswater would have been to fall short of a just appreciation of the beauties of English Lakeland.’ Along the northwest shore, Birks Crag is the site of an ancient British fort, while the falls of Measand Beck, known as The Forces, offer a moment’s pause. In its original state, before the waterworks activities, the hanging valley of Fordingdale, through which Measand Beck flows, ended in a massive fan of gravel and boulders spreading so far out it almost severed the lake. Just after Measand Beck a last opportunity arises to take in the great sweep of mountains at the head of the valley, a final, final look at a landscape that has set a high standard for the rest of the journey to follow. That the standard is maintained, in very different ways, is a tribute to our English heritage. Across Haweswater the wooded slopes of Naddle Forest rise sharply to a rounded lump known as Hugh’s Laithes Pike. A minor summit crowned by a large stone, the top is said to mark the last resting place of Jimmie Lowther, who after a riotous life contrived to break his neck steeplechasing while drunk. Having died too suddenly for a death’s-door repentance, Jimmie could find no rest in his grave, and in spite of all the parson’s efforts to lay his ghost, continued to trouble the villagers. Finally, weary of Jimmie’s hauntings, the villagers dug up his body and re-buried it on the highest point of Naddle Forest, where he would bother them no longer. For all we know, he’s still up there, haunting the occasional passerby, though I have been less than diligent in verifying this possibility! Burnbanks village was constructed in 1929 to house the men working on the reservoir, and their families. For many years their houses looked derelict – only a few were inhabited – but during 2005 all the properties were completely renovated.

Naddle Bridge

On reaching Burnbanks go through a narrow gate onto a path meandering through a small woodland glade (signposted ‘Naddle Bridge’). This enchanted, moss-hung place echoes loudly in spring and summer to the song of wood, willow and garden warblers. It is a brief and cathartic gateway, releasing body and mind from the splendour of Lakeland in preparation for a communion of a quite different order. Through the woodland, Haweswater Beck gurgles peacefully, its water lapping ivy-covered rocks and boulders until, in no time at all, Naddle Bridge is reached. Cross the road to a stile giving onto a unique and fascinating configuration of bridges. Naddle Bridge itself is double-arched, while sheltering in its lee, long since usurped of its original function, stands a narrow, grass-covered packhorse bridge. Within a few strides you cross a small feeder stream, Naddle Beck, by a wooden bridge. Now go half-left to amble beside Haweswater Beck on a green path to a stile crossing a drystone wall. Once across the stile, a few paces left brings Thornthwaite Force into view, a modestly proportioned cascade, after which the beck assumes a broad and easy course, its banks enlivened in spring by the bright yellow of lesser celandine and marsh marigolds. Heading downstream, Park Bridge is soon encountered (pass on by), and after a short wander away from the beck to follow a minor stream lined with trees, a wider track forms, rising slightly to cross a side stream to a gate and step-stile. Turn right along a fenceline, climbing easily to pass to the right of High Park barn. Briefly, there is a fine retrospective view of the fells surrounding Mardale and the lower ground northwards of the Lowther valley.

Thornthwaite Force

Shortly after the barn, bear half-left across pastureland to a prominent gate and stile, about 200m away. Now cross two more fields on indistinct green tracks to reach Rawhead Farm, where a stile gives on to the farm access, keeping right of the buildings to a minor metalled roadway. Cross the road and traverse a short damp stretch, bearing left through gorse before dropping to a road again near Rosgill Bridge. Rosgill Bridge spans the River Lowther, which flows from Wet Sleddale to meet the Eamont near Penrith, and between here and Shap Abbey the way is never far from its company or influence.

Do not cross Rosgill Bridge, but turn right over a step-stile onto a broad farm track with the river off to the left. Stay along the track and soon take the right-hand one of two gates. Through the gate, immediately go left (do not climb the farm track) on a path beside the wall to a stile. The path continues until the wall ends and gives way to hawthorns (Goodcroft Farm up to the right), and then follows a fenceline to an area of small crags known as Fairy Crag. A few more minutes brings the way to a delectable corner where Parish Crag Bridge, double-gated, spans Swindale Beck, a tributary of the Lowther.

Climb steeply above the bridge and strike directly across the ensuing field, heading for an assortment of barns on the skyline. By stiles, pass through the enclosure to reach a minor road at a corner. Head up the road until the accompanying left-hand wall breaks away, and here go left (for ‘Shap’). Bear obliquely across to a gate and stile, close by an electricity pylon. Cross the stile and an ancient earthwork, in the form of a ditch and mound, that immediately follows to take a green path along a righthand wall. As the wall bends right, follow it briefly, but then pull half-left, crossing the shoulder of a sloping pasture. On the brow of the pasture, Shap Abbey appears to the right, not immediately obvious in its surround of trees. Drop to cross a stream and go on to a ladder-stile near a wall junction, and cross a final field with the Lowther once more in view below.

Parish Crag Bridge over Swindale Beck

From the stile, bear half-right across another sloping pasture on a green path that leads to a steep drop above the River Lowther. Keep above the river, sticking to the rim of the river bend to pick up a narrow path that leads to a

ladder-stile. Cross the stile and drop immediately left, through a gate and across Abbey Bridge into a small car park, and then forward along an access road to meet another. Shap Abbey, however, deserves a few moments, and is reached by going right from the ladder-stile. SHAP ABBEY The abbey at Shap was one of the many monastic houses established in England during the 12th century. It belonged to an order founded by the German Saint Norbert, and owes its foundation to a baron named Thomas son of Gospatric, who held lands in Westmorland of William of Lancaster, the feudal lord of Kendale and Wyresdale. Towards the end of his life, Thomas son of Gospatric made arrangements for the establishment of an abbey on his own estates at Preston in Kendale, but before his death in 1201 he changed his mind, and instead granted the canons a site 20 miles further north on the banks of the Lowther. He gave them leave to quarry stone and to fell timber on his land. The place where the abbey was founded was then known as ‘Hepp’, meaning ‘a heap’, and referring to the megalithic stone circle today known as Shap Stones. Less than a hundred years later the name had changed from ‘Hepp’ to ‘Hiap’, and then to ‘Shap’. The new abbey was dedicated to St Mary Magdelene and sometimes referred to as ‘St Mary Magdelene in the Valley’. Very little is known about the history of the abbey. The order was of Premonstratensian monks, and intended for those who wished to combine the life of prayer and discipline of a monk with parish work as priests serving local communities. Such men were known as ‘White Canons’, from the colour of the habits they wore. The history of such monastic orders in England closes during the reign of Henry VIII, with the end for Shap coming on 14 January 1540, when the last abbot surrendered the abbey’s possessions to the representatives of the Crown. For his cooperation, perhaps, he was compensated with what was then the comfortable pension of £40 per year, his canons receiving smaller sums, sufficient at any rate for their subsistence. The abbey’s lands were sold by the Tudor government to Sir Thomas Wharton, the governor of Carlisle, but in 1729, after the forfeiture of the Jacobite Duke of Wharton, they were purchased by Richard Lowther, of Mauld’s Meaburn Hall. In 1948 the Lowther Estates Limited, as representatives of his descendant, Lancelot Edward Lowther, 6th Earl of Lonsdale, placed the abbey ruins in the guardianship of the Ministry of Works (now the Department of the Environment) for preservation as an ancient monument. Access is now permitted by the new custodians, English Heritage.

From the point where the car park access road and another road to the abbey meet, the right-of-way that the route follows turns abruptly upwards, climbing steeply up a pasture. The obvious access road is a much gentler gradient, but is not a right-of-way. At the top, a cattle-grid marks the start of road surfacing, as a narrow lane leads out to Brampton road at a bend. From this point there are three ways into Shap. (a) The longest simply follows the road ahead as it winds round into the northern end of Shap. (b) The shortest turns immediately right at the road bend onto a walled path to Keld Lane. This narrow route is often wet and muddy for about 200m, improving thereafter as it heads for Keld Lane, another narrow, surfaced lane. Here, turn left for a short distance to the next corner, then go right at a footpath signpost along a walled track, but only for around 30m, when you can squeeze left through a gap-stile beside a gate giving into a field containing the Goggleby Stone, one of a line of stones thought to lead to the stone circle near

Kemp Howe at the southern end of the village. Walk down the left-hand edge of the field, through a narrow section of walled path and into an elongated grassy pasture. Go up the pasture and ahead to a gate at the rear of houses. Pass through two gates to reach an estate road (West Close). Go left to a junction and right to walk out to meet the A6 next to the fire station.

Shap Abbey

(c) For those who want to avoid the risk of getting wet feet, simply go forward from the road bend, as if taking the road route into Shap. But at the first road on the right (signed for Keld), turn right and follow a narrow, twisting lane until it makes a pronounced bend to the right. Here the narrow walled track leading to the Goggleby Stone lies directly ahead. Go forward and follow the route given in (b) above. THE SHAP STONES Along the final stretch into Shap, not-too-weary walkers may notice the change of bedrock from the granite of the Lakeland fells to the limestone that will now accompany the way. Not all the stones and

boulders are limestone, however, for nearby, in the fields, are a number of huge boulders of granite. These are the Shap Stones (or Karl Lofts), thought by early historians to be relics of a monolithic monument. They are evidence of a double, mile-long avenue of single boulders (megaliths) extending northwest from a stone circle just west of Hardendale Quarry at the southern end of the village.

2 LIMESTONE COUNTRY As Shap is reached and passed, so the scenery becomes noticeably different, now entering the realms of limestone country, quite a change after the ruggedness of the Lake District. Magnificent, refreshing scenery awaits, traversed without difficulty, but with few opportunities to break the otherwise lengthy trek to Kirkby Stephen. The only village encountered is Orton, although walkers not constrained by time may consider dropping from the limestone pasturelands to Newbiggin-on-Lune. Walkers with a keen interest in prehistory will know that the ancient peoples of Britain found this corner of Westmorland (as it used to be) much to their liking, and there are along and not far from this stretch of the walk many sites of archaeological and historical significance. The region, too, is abundant in wildlife, and two large tracts of countryside are important breeding sites for birds.

Market Hall, Shap

At the time of the first edition of this guidebook (1993), there were some access issues along this stretch. From 2005, with the introduction of Open Access in many areas, all these were effectively resolved, leaving the walker free to press on without worrying about treading on someone’s toes.

Shap to Orton Distance Height Gain

12.6km (7.9 miles) 107m (351 feet)

SHAP Since 1970, when the M6 motorway opened, Shap has been spared the aggravation of the traffic that used to shake its very foundations. Not everyone applauded the stroke of highway-engineering genius that brought peace and quiet to this straggling village high on the moorland fringe of the Lake District, for as tranquility set in, many jobs and livelihoods were lost. Once prosperous shops, hotels, cafés, garages and other sundry services faced an immediate decline in trade, as everyone now bypassed the village, renowned for snow-blocked winter roads that often ensnared travellers. Shops, cafés, hotels and boarding houses still remain, however, to resupply Coast-to-Coasters, but the economy of the village now largely rests on the prosperity of the nearby granite works and quarries, which add nothing to the otherwise wild beauty of the place. Many of the houses, grey and not a little forbidding, date from the 18th century, while the market hall, with curious windows and round-headed arches, dates from a few years after the village was granted a market charter in 1687. Although quiet now by comparison, Shap remains an important staging post for walkers travelling east or west.

Walk southwards through Shap along the A6, finally leaving it by turning left onto a narrow housing-estate road (Moss Grove) directly opposite the Kings Arms Hotel at the southern end of the village (signed for Hardendale). In a short while, follow the road to the right (signposted), and go forward onto a broad track that soon bends left to cross the west coast railway line. On the other side the track continues parallel with the railway for a short distance before heading east along a walled track flanked by pastures. Climb easily to a signpost at a path junction, and keep forward, still between walls, to a stile giving into a large pasture with a motorway footbridge prominent ahead. Cross the field to a stile near a gate in a field corner, and from it bear obliquely left to a through-stile in a wall, beyond which lies the motorway footbridge. While the view ahead, principally of the Shap granite works, is less than imposing, the retrospective view sweeps majestically from distant Loadpot Hill, by way of High Raise, Kidsty Pike and High Street, to the long grassy ridge of Kentmere Pike. Soon these glimpses of Lakeland will be fewer and then no more, replaced by the fine, swelling domes of the Howgills to the south, as ahead the Pennine summits of Nine Standards Rigg, Mallerstang Edge and Wild Boar Fell start to capture our attention. Cross the motorway bridge and continue right, parallel with the motorway for a short distance on a narrow path. From the corner of a walled pasture, near a collapsed drystone wall, the path slants upwards and left, across a slope dotted with granite boulders and hawthorn, to a gate in the corner of a wall that gives on to an open meadow near The Nab. Go forward on a green path to a narrow road. HARDENDALE Beyond and to the left rises Hardendale Nab, a minor limestone summit much less in stature now than of old, as huge chunks of it are removed from the as-yet-unseen Hardendale Quarry, though the quarry access road is plainly evident, looping southwards to cross the motorway.

Not far away to the north lies the hamlet of Hardendale itself, birthplace of John Mill, the Greek scholar who gave most of his life to transcribing the New Testament from man uscripts. He died in 1707, two weeks after finishing a work that had taken him 30 years to complete. Here, too, is a farm where Bonnie Prince Charlie and his officers stayed on the night of 17 December 1745, complaining about the high cost for food and the use of a room.

Cross the road and continue along a green path (signed for Oddendale), passing below a mainly grass-covered limestone lip, almost as far as a wall. Here, swing left to parallel the wall to a gate. Beyond the gate the path descends gently as it threads a limestone ledge to a stile just above the quarry access road. Steps lead down to the road and up the other side to a broad limestone plateau, soon joining a broad, stony track, though not one frequented by the huge lorries that travel the quarry access. Take care crossing the access, both to avoid the huge lorries that use it, and to minimise the quantity of cloying limestone mud that will stick to your boots. Across the access, bear left along the track, towards the hidden hamlet of Oddendale, but as it is approached, bear right, and shortly leave the road leading into Oddendale for a broad, gently rising track on the right – a Roman road – striking across the moorland expanse of Crosby Ravensworth Fell. ODDENDALE Oddendale is very much a shy and secluded place, a world apart from external haste and harassment. It lies at the heart of a vast area renowned for its wealth of prehistoric communities, no less than 11 early British settlements being found within a short compass. Oddendale Stone Circle, a double ring of stones, lies only a short distance from the Roman road, and is worth a short diversion. There is a grassy path to it, but it is not distinct.

The track continues climbing easily as far as Potrigg, in reality no more than a barn on the edge of a walled enclosure, and surrounded by trees. Keep forward past a track junction, and go as far as a waymark post on the left, where the track forks again. Here, branch left, descending on a green path to the corner of the conifer plantation. Ahead, now, a cairn can be seen on the edge of a limestone rise, and beyond it a signpost and another cairn marks the site of an ancient tumulus. Before reaching the tumulus, the walk crosses the line of a Roman road linking forts at Low Borrow Bridge, in Lonsdale, and Brougham. Much of this area is popular with breeding birds, and the way across it is to be waymarked – a good thing, too, for there is a grand feeling of openness here. Freed from the constraining summits and vales of Lakeland granite, the wind clears the mind (and sinuses), the sounds of moorland replace the subtly different music of the high fells, and the scenery rolls on forever to distant Cross Fell, the highest summit of the Pennines, and its acolytes, Little and Great Dun Fell, bringing an invigorating sense of freedom and self-satisfaction. Nearer to hand lies the serene loveliness of the Vale of Lyvennet, the onward

route now substantially forming a ring around its headwaters. The immediate onward route from the tumulus is along a grassy trod through tussock grass to a limestone pavement. Beyond this a better path that swings round to a couple of large granite erratic boulders, at the top of a short descent to cross the infant Lyvennet Beck. GRANITE BOULDERS There are numerous ‘alien’ granite boulders, like those above Lyvennet Beck, dotted about the limestone country of the north. Brought to their final resting place at the whim of long-retreated glaciers, the larger ones, many with names, often serve walkers as useful guides, while more than a few have in the past been used to delineate parish boundaries.

Erratic, Crosby Ravensworth Fell

Across Lyvennet Beck keep forward along an ancient track. When this forks, bear left onto a green track through heather, bearing left towards a wall, which is finally met at a wall corner. CROSBY RAVENSWORTH FELL Not far away, and reached by a deviation along the course of upper Lyvennet Beck, stands a monument at Black Dub, claimed to mark the source of the Livennet (sic). Erected in 1843, it more significantly commemorates the passage of King Charles II who, in 1651, here ‘regaled his army and drank of the water on his march from Scotland’. The route here crosses Crosby Ravensworth Fell, designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest. It is an important area for nature conservation, and home to a range of moorland birds, some of which have declined significantly in recent years. Most notable of these are the golden plover, red grouse, redshank and curlew. These birds are characteristic of wild, isolated places, and are sensitive to disturbance, especially in the breeding season, when they may desert their nests. Back on the route, and worthy of note also, is the fact, no longer in any way apparent on the ground, that the walk has here crossed the line of the first road from London to Scotland, before the shelter, easier gradients and more hospitable terrain through the Shap fells found favour.

From the wall corner head east, descending beside a wall through low heather scrub to another wall corner. Here bear left towards a shallow gorge. Cross this and continue beside the on-going wall to another gully, better defined, and the course of a dried-up streambed.

‘ROBIN HOOD’S GRAVE’ The dried-up streambed twists southwards and conceals, only a short distance away, a large pile of stones with the fanciful name ‘Robin Hood’s Grave’. Now, the great Forest of Sherwood did extend much further north than its present day residue, Robin’s trusty lieutenant, Little John, is said to lie buried in a churchyard in Hathersage in the Peak, Maid Marion, I have heard tell, originally came from Wakefield, and history undoubtedly does record that dear Robin travelled around quite a bit. But if the legendary hero’s dying wish that he should be buried at the spot where his final arrow came to rest is to be believed, it would call for monumental quantities of credulity to believe he had the strength to flight it this far! His generally accepted resting place is at Kirklees, near Leeds.

Lyvennet Beck

Climbing easily, the route gradually moves away from the wall which has accompanied the way from Lyvennet Beck, and crosses a stretch of ‘no-man’s land’ to head first for a large, walled enclosure and then down towards the minor road serving Crosby Ravensworth, reaching it by a step-stile opposite the Blasterfield Quarry. Now you have two choices. Either (a) continue on the road, right, to its meeting with the road from Appleby, on the edge of Orton Scar. Or (b) cross the road to the corner of a drystone wall. From this, strike towards the left-hand edge of a nearby plantation. Walk along the boundary, and when this ends, keep on in the same direction to rejoin the Crosby Ravensworth road almost at its junction with the Appleby–Orton road. Go right, towards Orton, to cross a cattle-grid, and immediately descend left on a green cart track to a gate in a wall corner (signposted ‘Scar Side’ or

‘Orton Village’). ORTON SCAR After the refreshing moorland traverse from Shap, arrival at the edge of Orton Scar is a most satisfying moment. The domed heights of the Howgills serve as a backdrop to the broad patchwork expanse of the Lune valley and the rising Pennines, blue along the distant horizon. Even on a bleak day, the prospect of the onward journey to Kirkby Stephen is uplifting.

Beyond the gate follow the curving green path downwards (disused lime kiln on the left) towards a small plantation. Alongside the plantation, the descending track becomes enclosed between walls, and leads down to a gate. Here, there is a choice of routes. Walkers descending to Orton go forward along the right-hand field boundary. Walkers bypassing Orton, once through the gate, should go left. This direct option, bypassing Orton, is described below.

Limekiln above Orton

Via Orton Walk downfield towards Broadfell Farm, there reaching a metal gate. Through this, keep to the right of the main farm buildings, passing through two more gates into a pasture. Descend to the bottom right-hand corner. Then, continue alongside a stream and wall to a gate in a wall corner beside a solitary beech tree. Beyond, the path continues and is soon rejoined by the stream, and passes down a field edge. Keep going forward to a gate giving on to a walled stony track on the northern edge of the village. On reaching the first houses, go left to a road, and then right, walking down to a T-junction beside a bridge. Now choose from the following. Either (a) go left over the bridge and follow the on-going lane past the Wesleyan Chapel (1833) to another T-junction, near a double-arched bridge at the southern edge of the village, and turn left for Raisbeck.

Or (b) go right at the T-junction and walk out to the main village road (the Church of All Saints lies directly ahead). Turn left and walk down into the village (a right turn is soon necessary if you want to visit the village tea room and the post office). Continue through the village to the turning for Raisbeck on the left at the southern edge of the village. Bypassing Orton This more direct route will save 1.3km (¾ mile). From the gate, go left across a low bridge spanning a stream gully, and then continue alongside a wall to the farm access for Broadfell. Follow the access out to Street Lane, a minor road serving a handful of isolated farms. Go left up the lane to Scar Side Farm, then east to Friar Biggins Farm, and, shortly, Scarside Farm. A short way further on, a gate and stile on the left give access to a field. Strike across the field to another gate and stile, giving onto Knott Lane, a long-established bridleway leading north onto Orton Scar. Cross Knott Lane to a stile (and gate) opposite.

The track down into Orton ORTON Granted a market charter during the reign of Edward I (1272–1307), Orton lies in a beautiful spot at the

foot of Orton Scar, and is overlooked by its 13th-century Church of All Saints, which stands on a knoll by the northerly approach to the village. It is one of the most charming of Westmorland villages. A farmers’ market is still held here on the second Saturday in each month (see www.ortonfarmers.co.uk). In 1658, Oliver Cromwell granted a charter for a weekly market and an annual Whitsun fair. Other fairs were later permitted, and sheep and cattle traded. Walkers who are intentionally pottering their way coast to coast will find Orton a most endearing and attractive overnight halt, though it arrives rather too soon for the speed merchants of long-distance walking. Surrounded by trees and built around a village green between two streams, the village has a reputation for longevity, a considerable number of inhabitants having reached 100 years of age. It is as if the village goes so quietly about its business in so beautiful a setting that its people are reluctant to depart for the life hereafter, preferring, for the moment, the comforts of Orton’s embrace. Many of Orton’s cottages date from the 17th and 18th centuries. Petty Hall, which once belonged to the Birkbeck family, bears the date 1604 on a panel over the doorway. Not far away stands Orton Hall, built in 1662, and for many years the home of the Burn family, one of whom acquired fame for his legal writings. Probably the most famous of Orton’s inhabitants, however, was George Whitehead, one of the founders of the Society of Friends. Born here in 1636, he fell under the spell of the charismatic George Fox, and to the distress of his family, turned Quaker while still a youth. This was a most perilous time for Quakers, and while it is understandable that many folk in isolated communities like Orton should take to the faith, they were universally hated by Anglicans, Presbyterians, and Baptists alike, and it was commonplace to find people baiting them and beating them with sticks. Somehow, Whitehead survived this persecution and embarked on a personal crusade of a most remarkable order. Preaching widely, as George Fox had done, he argued at length with preachers and professors alike, and visited imprisoned Quakers both willingly and then as a prisoner himself. He was placed in stocks and whipped. Undaunted, he held services on windswept hillsides, petitioned the House of Commons for justice for Quakers, and spent increasing periods of his life in prison. Yet nothing, it seemed, could deter him from his mission. In his quiet way he persuaded King Charles to free every captive Quaker, only to see them later thrown back into prison and robbed of their estates. From James II he secured immunity from persecution, but it was not until after the Revolution that Parliament passed an Act recognising Quakers as citizens. If George Fox was the creator of the Society of Friends, George Whitehead, it has been said, ‘was the law-giver, the Moses of his creed’. Unabashed, he stood before seven sovereigns, obtaining concessions that later found their way into the Quaker Magna Carta of 1696. He died in 1723, aged 86. At the southern edge of the village stands a delightful double-arched bridge which separates the waters of Chapel Beck. Another attractive pedestrian bridge stands nearby, giving into the grounds of Orton Hall. Orton Hall is an extensive Jacobean mansion house in six acres of private grounds, mainly laid to lawn with mature trees and shrubs, with a small wood at the rear of the property. It dates from 1662 and is a Grade II Listed Building.

Orton to Kirkby Stephen Distance Height Gain

20.5km (12.8 miles) Nominal

Continue along the Raisbeck road for 1.5km (1 mile), before leaving it by branching left onto a bridleway (Knott Lane, a wide, walled track) that runs northwards towards the limestone fell, Knott. Walk along Knott Lane, passing Gamelands Stone Circle (over the wall on the right), which is of considerable size, with many of its original 40 or so stones collapsed but remaining. Keep going a short distance further, passing two trees (one very dead, which may not survive this book) and the remains of a field barn, to a signposted bridleway on the right (for ‘Acres’ and ‘Coast to Coast via Sunbiggin’), where the direct route from Orton Scar joins from the left. Now leave Knott Lane by crossing the stile and going forward alongside a wall until another stile/gate takes the route onto the opposite side of the wall, where it now remains. The way takes a well-defined line across numerous wall-enclosed pastures, and finally arrives at a gate and stile beside a small group of trees beyond which, directly ahead across one last field, lies the farm at Acres. When you reach the narrow lane at Acres, turn left and, taking care against approaching traffic (some of which may be four-legged and en masse), walk up to Sunbiggin farm, and there head east for Stony Head farm, where the lane surrenders to a broad green track enclosed between walls (signposted ‘Bridleway to Sunbiggin Tarn’). The track ends at a gate, after which it crosses heather moorland. Keep going for about 200m to a track junction, and here branch right, heading south, towards the Howgills that form the undulating southern skyline. When, a short way on, the track forks, keep left, and at the next track junction, now with Sunbiggin Tarn in view, turn right through another spread of heather dotted with gnarled hawthorns. Follow a wide track

out to meet a road at a signpost. Now there is a choice of two routes, which may well be influenced by weather conditions. One way – the now recommended route – makes use of a line not lawfully available at the time of the first edition of this book; the other simply takes the road to the left and then heads south through Mazen Wath. The latter, though longer, is the wiser option in poor visibility (this road option is given below).

Sunbiggin Tarn

Recommended Route On meeting the road, go right – southwest and apparently heading away from Robin Hood’s Bay – to cross Tarn Sike bridge. Now continue along the road for a further 200m, then leave it for a clear track southwards through heather. Just southwest of a boggy hollow created by Tarn Sike, the path meets a cross track. Here turn left, heading roughly east, with Sunbiggin Tarn easing into view once more. SUNBIGGIN TARN Sunbiggin Tarn, though undoubtedly a welcome oasis in these great limestone uplands, is a particularly sensitive area. Often, the raucous clamour of breeding gulls will pinpoint the tarn’s whereabouts sooner by sound than by sight. The area around the tarn is a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).

Not always clear underfoot, the on-going path is an ancient highway – now classified as a Byway Open to All Traffic (a BOAT). The path leads down to a gate in a wall, near a large, walled enclosure, on the boundary between Orton and Ravenstonedale parishes. Beyond the gate the ground is rather boggy and churned up, but leads on to a lovely broad green track across Ravenstonedale Moor. Although there is a discernible track across the moor, this may not be best place to be in poor visibility for other than competent navigators.

The track eventually passes along the southern edge of a large walled enclosure, and then bears left, climbing gently to meet the Newbiggin road, almost opposite a stony track along which the route continues. Walkers bound for Newbiggin-on-Lune should turn right at the road and follow it down to the village, a little over 1km (0.6 miles) distant.

Bad Weather Route (by the road through Mazon Wath) If taking the road option, turn left on reaching the road and cross a cattle-grid just north of Sunbiggin Tarn, of which there is a lovely view. (Note If you wish, there is the possibility of shortcutting this a little by continuing along a path north of Spear Pots to reach the Asby road about 500m southwest of its junction with the Newbiggin road.) Continue towards the junction with the Newbiggin road, and here bear right, cutting the corner a little, and then follow an undulating road past the scattered dwellings at Mazon Wath, and then on as far as a conspicuous stony track on the left about 300m south of a cattle-grid. Walkers bound for Newbiggin-onLune should keep forward along the road and follow it down to the village, a little over 1km (0.6 miles) distant.

On-going Route Cross the Newbiggin road and follow a stony track heading past the domed and fenced mound of a reservoir, and then east along the north side of a wall towards Ewefell Mire, before bearing away to a gate. Beyond, continue below Great Ewe Fell and Bents Hill, still parallel with the wall. The easy crossing, above the Crosby Garrett Fell intake, is delightful strolling, with time aplenty to take in the view. Away to the right the Howgills, which have kept company with the walk since Orton Scar was crossed, are starting now to recede, replaced by the great swell of Wild Boar Fell, the Vale of Eden, Mallerstang Edge, Hugh Seat and Nine Standards Rigg. From the vicinity of Bents Farm a keen eye can just pick out the cairns on Nine Standards Rigg. That’s where you’re going. Continue following the intake wall, passing the turning to Bents Farm. Stay with the wall, and, near a cluster of sheepfolds at a wall corner, press on through a gate and keep along the ensuing wall. There is now a dilemma. Ahead lies Severals Settlement (see below), which in my view, at least, is an extremely sensitive area of prehistoric significance. When I wrote the first edition of this guidebook, I abandoned the right-of-way across the site, the line originally taken by Wainwright (which, to be fair, even later editions of his route now avoid). Instead, I advised an alternative route which continued along the wall until, at a prominent waymark, you could (and still can) cross it by a stile. Then the route used simply hugs the wall and avoids the sensitive area. While revising the guide for this edition, however, I noticed that the

recommended route now doesn’t cross the stile (it’s a through-stile, near a tall post), but remains alongside the wall, keeping it on the right until, much further on, and descending into Smardale, another through-stile lets you cross to the other side of the wall. The clearer footpath is on the south of the wall, but that’s because everyone has been using that route for years. On the north of the wall, there is a less distinct but perfectly serviceable path. The choice is yours. The route to the south of the wall is today a permissive path, thanks to the landowner. The route to the north is within Access Land, and so freely available. Indeed, both sides of the wall are Access Land, which rather puzzles me, but that’s another matter. So, have a quiet chat with your conscience, and choose your route. There isn’t anything to choose between them – apart from heritage. (a) If you cross the wall, go immediately left alongside it, keeping above the settlement, and ultimately descending through geologically fascinating limestone outcrops and steps, to reach a dilapidated building that once served the disused railway line, part of the former Tebay–Darlington line. (b) If you decide to stay out of Severals, then simply keep the wall on your right, and stay with it until just above that dilapidated building, where you will find a through-stile and can cross the wall. SEVERALS SETTLEMENT The significance of Severals Settlement cannot be overestimated – it is a most remarkable place, although it may not look it. Alas, for walkers very little is visible at ground level – hang gliders would get a better idea. Severals Settlement is a complex of prehistoric British villages comprising walls, huts, dykes and pathways. But all you’ll see today are primitive earthworks, raised banks and the vague foundations of former walls. The site is listed as one of key importance to our understanding of living conditions thousands of years ago. The remains we see today are sparse, and fully understood only by those knowledgeable in matters archaeological. Most of the settlement lies to the south of the wall, though there are traces of two other settlements north of the wall, overlooking the wooded vale of Scandal Beck. So, mark your passage with a moment’s pause to let your mind run free, back into time.

Wild Boar Fell from Severals Settlement

Near the old railway building follow a green path to the right, to reach a gated bridge crossing the line, and turn right (ignoring the low stile on the right), to continue alongside a fence, then following a curving path descending to Smardale Bridge. SMARDALE BRIDGE Smardale Bridge is an ideal spot for a short rest before the final lap to Kirkby Stephen. The stream here is Scandal Beck, and its banks in spring play host to a wide variety of wild flowers, among which are dog roses, forget-me-not, herb robert, and monkey flower, while the stream itself is often covered with great rafts of white-flowered river water-crowfoot. Running north from Smardale Bridge, the valley of Smardale is very attractive, and little known outside the immediate locality. The former railway has left a few scars and disused buildings, but its great viaduct is a wonder to behold. The flanks of the old railway line are renowned for a wide variety of wild flowers, including many not widely seen, and if your interest lies here, a short detour, using the low stile just after the railway bridge mentioned earlier, will bring ample reward. At a number of sites near Smardale Bridge the maps mention ‘Pillow Mounds’. Closer inspection reveals that these are not natural formations, and are known locally as ‘Giants’ Graves’, though their true origin is uncertain. Various notions have been advanced about them, including one which suggests that they were rabbit warrens constructed by the monks who farmed this area – medieval rabbits, it seems, were feeble creatures, unable to dig their own burrows – but the truth awaits some enterprising archaeologist with a trowel. The mounds are best seen while descending towards the derelict railway building.

Cross Smardale Bridge, beyond which the onward path awaits, climbing easily along a broad, enclosed track to a gate. Rising easily, never far from the wall, the path arrives at a gate and ladder-stile before setting off, this time in parallel with a long and unusually thin enclosure, to cross the northern flanks of Smardale Fell before descending to a signpost. Just a little further on the accompanying wall bears left. Here keep forward from the signpost, and cross the northern slope of Smardale Edge, following a bridleway to a gate and stile at a minor road, leading left to Waitby.

Smardale and Smardale bridge

Crossing Smardale Fell

On the springy turfed descent to the minor road there are fine views ahead of the high moorland Pennines of tomorrow, sweeping round from the now prominent Nine Standards Rigg to the haven of the Vale of Eden, framed between Mallerstang Edge and Wild Boar Fell. Closer to foot, the path crosses Limekiln Hill, deriving its name from the proximity of two kilns, just off the main line, but one at least worthy of a short detour. Turn right on reaching the road to a junction 150m away, and then left, slightly downhill, for another 150m, leaving the road by a through-stile on the right (signposted ‘Coast-to-Coast: Public Footpath to Kirkby Stephen’). Diagonally, cross the meadow that follows on a green path, past a barn and on to a railway underpass ahead.

THE SETTLE–CARLISLE RAILWAY The railway is the Settle–Carlisle line, a route much loved by railway enthusiasts, and a stark reminder of the Midland Railway’s determination to construct its own route to Scotland. It was built at enormous cost, both in terms of finance and human life. During the 1980s, affected by the ravages of time and the sheer inhospitability of the climate, the future of the railway was called into question, as the old spectre of financial viability once more reared its ugly head. A vigorous campaign to keep the line open was finally vindicated in April 1989, when the government announced that the line was indeed to remain open. Its numerous viaducts and tunnels, notably further south, near Ribblehead, and the regular steam locomotive excursions organised by enthusiasts for enthusiasts, will long remain as a proud testament to Victorian endeavour and achievement.

Go through the underpass and across the next field to a stile (waymark), continuing on a grassy path through a slight depression. Just after the underpass there is yet more evidence of early settlements, among a scattering of hawthorns, on the right.

Follow the on-going path to a gate and narrow lane, leading between the obsolete abutments of a dismantled railway, to turn right into the farmyard at Greenriggs. A waymarked route shows the way out onto the farm access, leading to a back lane into Kirkby Stephen. CROGLIN CASTLE Just after leaving Greenriggs Farm, the remains of Croglin Castle, no more than a rampart and a ditch, stand in the field on the right, accessible, if you have the energy and the inclination, by a stile. The site is thought to have been one of many hill forts constructed by the Brigantes before the coming of the Romans.

The back lane, improving marginally as Kirkby Stephen is approached, may be followed all the way into town, keeping very much away from the rather busier main street (A685), though the latter may be joined at any one of a number of points. In the end, an alleyway leads right, to the Black Bull Inn, while a short way further, a counterpart favours the Pennine Hotel, directly opposite the Market Place, from where the onward route departs. Walkers bound for the youth hostel should either join the A685 by one of the earlier opportunities, or turn right on reaching the main street near the Market Place. Many walkers will have traversed this section from Shap in one day, and will no doubt welcome the chance to put up their feet, and maybe down a few pints! Others may have wandered across in a rather more leisurely fashion, stopping perhaps at Orton. But few will have done either without acquiring a sense of the ancient, a passage through time, extending over two, three, maybe four thousand years into the dawning of man’s time in northern Britain. Opportunities to experience so much in so relatively short a distance are rare. Only a soulless, blinkered person could pass by without so much as a thought for our prehistory, and, thankfully, very few of those have the spirit or

imagination it takes to become long-distance walkers. And if this ancient fantasy land has aroused something within you, make sure it is well secured in your memory before advancing into the chip-smelly, traffic-hogged streets of Kirkby Stephen. This, in spite of the town’s undoubted charms, is the 21st century, and something of a culture shock.

3 INTO THE DALES KIRKBY STEPHEN An old market town, with a charter since 1351, Kirkby Stephen gives the impression of a place that doesn’t quite know what it wants to be. It is an overgrown village, tightly built up for a while, but lacking any real depth, gathering its shape ‘and what importance it possesses as much from being on the road to somewhere else as from what it is in itself’. First impressions are that it is larger than it really is, but the River Eden, slipping quietly round the back of the town, rather sharply defines its eastern boundaries, while low hill pastures start to rise within a hundred metres of the town’s main road, to the west. Though lying on the once important route up the Eden valley to Carlisle, the town, down the centuries, has been overshadowed by its neighbour, Brough, whose massive castle dominated the strategic junction of the Carlisle route with the road by Stainmore from Scotch Corner, once the main road from London to Scotland. Alas, the coming of the railways signalled Brough’s ultimate decline, and by 1860 it was little more than a village, the railway having effectively wiped out the coaching trade it formerly enjoyed. Bad news for Brough, but goods news for Kirkby Stephen, for the railways passed close by, and until fairly recently the town could boast the luxury of two railway stations – now only the Settle–Carlisle line remains. As Kirkby Stephen expanded, its Luke Fair replaced Brough Hill Fair as a focal point for cattle and sheep sales, and even when the Beeching axe fell, Kirkby still survived on the strength of the expanding motor trade, proving a well-sited staging post for convoys of coaches taking workers from the northeast on holiday and day trips to Blackpool. In those heady days of wealth, a café in Kirkby was a licence to print money, and the whole town, bent on victualling tired and emotional Geordies, stayed bright-eyed, bushytailed, and occasionally legless well into the early hours. Coaches still stop there, spilling trippers into its gift shops, cafés, market and pubs, while the Coast to Coast Walk has seen to it that a steady plod of hungry wayfarers finds its weary way into the town in search of hotels, bed and breakfast, camp sites, and the youth hostel. Kirkby’s church, of St Stephen, is worth a visit. Rather like a small cathedral, it still bears traces of Saxon and Norman handiwork. In the former county of Westmorland, St Stephen’s was second in size only to the church at Kendal, and has a stately nave notable for its length and its magnificent 13thcentury arcades. Dalesmen have worshipped on this site since Saxon times, and until the early part of the 20th century, heard curfew rung from the 16th-century tower each evening. The old town was built for defence against border raiders, with narrow, high-walled passages and spacious squares into which cattle would be driven in times of danger. Indeed, those narrow passages provide the lynch pin for at least one local legend. Two salmon poachers, it is claimed, escaped from the long arm of the law by fleeing in their Mini down the narrow confines of Stoneshot. The pursuing police, coming from Penrith, and lacking essential local knowledge, endeavoured to follow in their patrol car, only to find themselves wedged between the walls, unable to go forward or back, or open the doors. Whether true or not, the very idea gives rise to a happy thought with which to set off for Swaledale.

Kirkby Stephen to Keld Distance Height Gain

17.8km (11 miles) 515m (1690 feet)

Between Kirkby Stephen and Keld the walk crosses the watershed of Britain, a significance greater in fact than on the ground.

Leave the Market Place (opposite the Pennine Hotel) by a short lane past public conveniences, and descending Stoneshot (of poachers fame!) to swing left and meet the River Eden at Frank’s Bridge. THE RIVER EDEN The source of the River Eden is high up on the slopes of Mallerstang, on Black Fell Moss, not far, in fact, from the birthplace of the Ure, and of the Swale, the river that will shortly accompany the walk for a good part of the remainder of its journey. The Eden, rising in a wild and magnificent setting, soon settles down to a sedate meander through its lush and fertile vale, finally condescending to meet the Solway Firth near Carlisle. To gaze on Eden’s loveliness is to appreciate how apt is its name, ‘fetched from paradise and rightfully borne’ (Wordsworth). To travel its length is quite another story, and one evocatively told by Neil Hanson, sometime landlord of the Tan Hill pub, in his book Walking through Eden.

Cross Frank’s Bridge, where an ever-present assembly of ducks sets up a cacophony of appeals for food, and turn right to follow the river for a short distance until it swings away, right, and then follow a path ahead, through gates, and by a quiet lane into the hamlet of Hartley. HARTLEY Hartley is a delightful place on the road to nowhere, ‘A company of limes by a stream, silver birches, a little bridge, a few houses below the grandeur of the Pennines, this is Hartley, a quiet spot under a hill over 2000 feet high, with nine great stone cairns centuries old.’

Go right through Hartley for a while to a path on the left (signposted ‘Hikers and Walkers to Nine Standards and Whitby’), descending to cross Hartley Beck by a footbridge, Between Kirkby Stephen and Keld the walk crosses the watershed of Britain, a significance greater in fact than on the ground. and then onto the road climbing to the vicinity of Hartley Quarry. Continue with the fell road, climbing steadily towards Fell House farm, a rather isolated outpost, where at last the gradient eases. The road runs on to its demise at a

fork, where the way follows the left branch, a bridleway (signposted ‘Nine Standards Rigg’), rising through a gate and onto Hartley Fell. Continuing as a broad track the onward route is never in doubt, and soon joins company with a wall (on the right). Before long the wall bears southeast and then south near the point where Faraday Gill flows down from the slopes of Nine Standards Rigg. Faraday Gill commemorates the local family whose offspring, Michael (1791–1867), was the physical scientist who discovered electromagnetic induction and other important electrical and magnetic phenomena.

Continue for a short distance until a Land Rover track dips down to the left to cross the gill at a ford. Follow this track on the other side for a short distance and then, as it moves away to the left, look for a narrow trod returning towards the gill, which is now followed along its true right bank. After a while the gill becomes more deeply incised, and offers a moment’s diversion in a series of miniature cascades. Shortly, the route arrives at a walled enclosure, where the gill needs to be crossed, then continues ahead to a prominent cairn, not unlike those on the summit beyond. As the cairn is reached, so the Nine Standards come into view on the skyline ahead, for which you should now head, taking care to avoid a few wet (and deep) natural drainage courses. NINE STANDARDS RIGG Arrival at Nine Standards is a moment of some occasion. It lies on the watershed of Britain, that great north–south divide sending waters one way to the Irish Sea, and the other to the North Sea, though there are times and rainy days when you gain the distinct impression its sends them nowhere at all! No one has yet come up with any historical fact about the origins or purpose of the Nine Standards. They stand on the former county boundary between Westmorland and the North Riding of Yorkshire, and, more than likely, their origin derives from that significance, though one fanciful notion suggests they were built to persuade marauding Scots that an English army was camped up there, which as Neil Hanson points out ‘suggests a contempt for Scottish intelligence that even the English would find hard to maintain’. On a clear and fine day there are few places that give a wider, more inspiring panorama of the massive, sprawling beauty of the wild moorlands of northern England than Nine Standards. It is the most farreaching view seen on the crossing, extending from the mounds of Cross Fell, the Dun Fells and Mickle Fell in the north, to the lofty escarpment of Wild Boar Fell across the upper Vale of Eden. It is truly a place apart – somewhere certainly to take a break, to cast your eyes back the way you have come, to the now hazy-blue Lakeland heights. From here we head into the Dales, and Swaledale in particular, and although there is nothing to come that is higher than Nine Standards, it would be a mistake to think it is now downhill all the way from here. The highest point of Nine Standards Rigg occurs at the trig point, a short way to the south.

Go south from the Nine Standards to the trig, and follow a broad path heading for White Mossy Hill. Shortly after crossing a peaty drainage channel, leave the established path and head left across moorland terrain, then descend, keeping north of Craygill Sike, to that stream’s eventual confluence with Whitsundale Beck. Note The onward route to Ravenseat is conventionally by Whitsundale, but

the Yorkshire Dales National Park has introduced seasonal variations to the route to minimise erosional impact. These alternative routes are waymarked and notices posted to advise which route to take, although the whole area is now Access Land. WHITSUN DALE Whitsun Dale is a charming retreat, echoing to the call of curlew, buzzard and golden plover, where, on balmy days, the breeze sighs a soft accompaniment to a melody of light and shade, herons patrol the stream, and the miles that have gone and are to come seem like a distant world. Close by, the evergrowing beck fashions an indolent course, unhurried, reluctant yet to seek out its fate, not far hence. Sheepfolds proliferate, their sometime occupants dotted about the fellsides, but there is otherwise little to betray the hand of man in this secluded spot.

Whitsundale Beck near Ravenseat

Keeping on the west side of Whitsundale Beck, continue along its course to fenced enclosures at Fawcett Intake, where a stile facilitates onward progress. The route through the dale tends to keep above the stream, preferring the flanks of adjoining moorland to the twists and turns of the dale bottom. On approaching Ravenseat the route swings round beside a wall to reach New Gill, and then down to meet a minor road by which it enters this remote farming community. Cross the bridge at Ravenseat and immediately go right, crossing a stream to a gate. Pass through the gate, and shortly turn right again through a gated stile setting the route off along the eastern bank of Whitsundale Beck. The onward route is never in doubt. Pleasant walking now ensues, the beck

never far distant and providing some attractive waterfalls to enhance an already appealing scene. Continue easily, negotiating a number of gates through walls, climbing half-left to a barn, and then by a slightly higher level to the quite surprising scenery of How Edge Scars and Oven Mouth, where, over countless years, the stream has done remarkable things to the landscape. If by chance you wander inadvertently off the route onto a conspicuous lower path, you are brought much closer to Oven Mouth, escaping from the folds of the stream by a steeply ascending path that climbs left alongside a wall. Above Oven Mouth, and after a gate in a fence, the path forks. Go right here to pass a dilapidated enclosure, Eddy Fold, until the farmstead of Smithy Holme is reached. A good path goes past the farm and soon drops to meet the Kirkby Stephen–Keld road at Low Bridge, from where Keld and its youth hostel are but a short distance away. But you don’t quit the high-level route just yet. After a gate just before the final drop towards Low Bridge, look for a path going left above a collapsed wall. This leads above a limestone escarpment, Cotterby Scar, to meet the road climbing (left) to Tan Hill at a hairpin bend. The River Swale is now below you, your first encounter with the river that is to be your companion for some days to come. At the Tan Hill road, turn right and descend to cross the Swale and reach the valley road for the final moments to Keld. Unless going to the youth hostel (a short way ahead), go left at the first junction and descend to the village. KELD Until the Pennine Way found its way into this upper reach of the Swale, Keld was virtually unknown outside the dale. It is an ancient settlement of Scandinavian origin, its name, from the Norse, meaning ‘a place by the river’. The hamlet is attractively situated, the first village in Swaledale, surrounded by high moorlands, with the river bullying its way through the dale, crashing in a series of spectacular falls, or ‘forces’, out to the broader, greener pastures of Richmond and beyond. Catrake Force and Kisdon Force are the best of the cascades, though each limestone lip in the riverbed sets up a foaming flurry of activity at the surface as the peaty brown water flows on. Once remote, it seems now that Keld has taken keenly to the benefits that the Pennine Way, and more latterly the Coast to Coast Walk, have brought in the form of travellers seeking a bed and nourishment. A youth hostel has been provided along the ‘main’ road, bed and breakfast signs adorn a few old and attractive buildings, and one of the farms offers a camp site, farmhouse accommodation and a range of refreshments. But even so, the opportunities for an overnight stay, however delightful a prospect, are limited, and pre-booking a good idea. Not so long ago many of these ‘isolated’ communities largely managed their own affairs. Keld held its own sports day, Muker boasted a brass band, and all of them, not surprisingly, had their own ‘characters’. In Keld it was Dick Alderson, better known as Neddy Dick. Neddy’s particular claim to fame, so it is said, was his ability to make music from stones. Apparently, while climbing near Kisdon Force one day, he dislodged a sliver of rock and heard a distinct musical ring as it fell against other rocks. Before long he had found enough rocks to compose a ‘limestone scale’, on which he would accompany his own singing. His great ambition, alas unfulfilled, was to ‘go on tour’ with his geologic one-man band piled on a donkey cart!

Keld, by the way, is roughly the halfway point, and what lies ahead is every bit as good as what has been left behind (whichever way you are going).

Keld to Reeth Distance Height Gain

19km (12 miles) 130m (425 feet)

Between Keld and Reeth there is a choice of routes. One swings high on to the moorland, where it affords a thorough inspection of the remains of the lead-mining industry that once flourished in these part, the other faithfully courts the River Swale. The former is described by Wainwright as ‘a grim trek amidst the debris of a dead industry’, while the latter will appeal to those who enjoy riverside rambles, a spectacular display of wild flowers, and the conviviality of rural pubs (of which there is quite a number). The high-level route is given in Appendix A, and much of it can be confusing in mist. Miners’ tracks and sledgates radiate in all directions, the litter of man’s industry abounds, and however precise a worded description, the potential for error is not insignificant. The lower, Swale option, with its riverside paths and country lanes, is undoubtedly the best course. Rightly described as the Royal Road to Reeth, the low-level route between Keld and Reeth is riparian loveliness at its best, an extravagance of riverside wandering across meadows lush with wild flowers.

Leave Keld by a rough lane running southeast (signposted ‘Kisdon Force’ and ‘Muker’), and soon branch left, and down, to cross the Swale by a footbridge. Above East Gill Force the onward route is signposted, through a gate and climbing impressively above Kisdon Gorge, and soon, at a fork, branching left to the ruins of Crackpot Hall. CRACKPOT HALL Crackpot Hall, commanding a superlative position above the Swale, would once have been a most attractive farmhouse. Alas, subsidence, caused by mining activities, hastened its demise, an end that came in the 1950s, and an event that must surely have saddened its occupants, in spite of the no doubt punishing existence that life among these isolated farming communities entailed. The farmhouse was built by Lord Wharton for his keeper, who managed the red deer that roamed the wooded hillsides of the 17th century. Tempting as it may seem so to think, the name of the farm is no comment on the mental state of its occupants, deriving instead from the ‘pot’ (i.e. pot hole or cave) ‘of the crows’.

East Gill Force, Keld As Crackpot Hall is approached, ignore the path climbing left towards it, and descend, right, on a broad track continuing easily to join the River Swale below, near the foot of Swinner Gill. A clear, broad path now escorts the river out towards Muker. Approaching Ramps Holme Bridge the path forks, one branch ascending left, the other continuing ahead to the bridge. Take the path towards the bridge but, unless bound for Muker, keep on past it to another fork (both directions being signposted ‘Gunnerside’, though that to the left makes use of a minor roadway, and avoids the walk along the river). Take the right branch and continue to the first of many – very many – gated (and ungated) squeeze-stiles, to the right of a barn. And on it goes – meadows, walls, barns, squeeze-stiles, buttercups and daisies in a seemingly endless succession until, at the end of one pasture, the path having rejoined the Swale, it leads on to a broad farm track, with a narrow riverside path dropping to the right. Take the riverside path, through the inevitable squeeze-stile, until the river, and a wall on the left, close the meadow down at a stile, giving on to a narrow path into woodland above the river. At a gate the path descends once more to the riverside. Near Ivelet Bridge the river flows languorously beneath walled fields rising to the distant summit of Blea Barf. Climb, by a gate, to Ivelet Bridge. Ivelet Bridge is a fine, single-arched bridge on the old corpse road from higher valley communities to Grinton, at one time the only church with hallowed ground to bury the dead. On the bridge, go left on the minor road leading to the village. At a telephone box turn right on a footpath to Gunnerside, where a minor road soon leads to a gravel path with a cottage on the left and a barn on the right. At a waymark, descend right on a narrow path through trees to a footbridge spanning

Shore Gill. An exhilarating view opens up ahead, of rich green pastureland, walled fields and sturdy barns, as the confines of the gill are left behind.

River Swale, upper Swaledale Once more the trail of meadows and squeeze-stiles takes over, until finally the path runs out onto a ledge between a fence and a steep drop to the river, soon to start descending. At a signposted track, bear half-left across a field for a final flourish of meadows and stiles before entering Gunnerside through an estate of modern, stone-built houses known as ‘Flatlands’. Cross the road at Gunnerside, and the bridge opposite, to reach the King’s Head Hotel. Turn right in front of the pub (on a path leading to toilets). Immediately before the toilet block turn left through a gated stile into meadowland for the now familiar arrangement of stiles and meadows, to reach the Swale once more just as it loops up towards the road. A signpost on the riverbank directs walkers up a broad track to meet the road at a gate, immediately leaving it again by a step-stile into woodland. For a short distance follow a narrow path high above the river, to which it soon begins a steep and slippery descent, rejoining the riverbank at a stile. The path now continues along the top of flood banks flanked by a variety of trees – ash, holly, beech and sycamore – where projecting tree roots and the occasional remains of old fence posts make passage a little awkward in wet conditions. Eventually the path is forced back to the road, which it is then obliged to follow until it can be left by a gate on the right. Now follow a broad green track as it swings round to a squeeze-stile, passing outside a walled enclosure, and by means of a narrow green path following the edge of a field to cross a fence by a stile. For a while, stay with a field boundary and then head left across the middle of the meadow, towards a spot known as The Isles, where the path approaches the riverbank once more, a suitable spot for a brief halt to watch the antics of oystercatchers, dippers, grey wagtails and sand martins. A small flight of steps leads up to a stile giving on to Isles Bridge. Go a few paces left on the road to a footpath (signposted ‘Reeth’) which passes briefly along the top of a wall. Follow this round to join more flood banks, and later climb on top of a narrower wall with a drop to pastureland on one side and the river on the other – no place for anyone without a good sense of balance. On finally quitting the wall the path rejoins the riverbank for a long and delightful trek to Reeth, finally escaping from the riverbank by a steep and slippery series of zigzags through scrubby Feetham Wood, following a signposted and waymarked footpath to join the road. Go right along the road, dodging traffic for a little over 1.5km (about 1 mile), until it can be left at a footpath sign (‘Reeth: 1¾ miles’) near a small parking area on the right. The path is seasonally overgrown for a short distance, following a fence on the left, the river on the right, then at a stile it

reaches the end of the meadow. Here it is necessary to ford in-flowing Barney Beck, something that can be awkward after rain, before continuing along the wooded banks of the river.

Along the road to Reeth Finally the low-level route enters Reeth by a green path passing, but not using, a footbridge over the Swale, leading to an enclosed path. At the top of the enclosed path bear right, coming soon, at the first houses, onto a metalled back road. Follow this and, as it bends left (signposted), continue to the centre of Reeth, to meet the B6270. REETH Once the centre of great mining activity, Reeth stands perched on a green plateau, from which its shops, inns and cottages gaze out across the luxurious vale it commands. The village was established as a forest-edge settlement, near the confluence of the River Swale and its most important tributary, Arkle Beck – indeed, the Old English meaning of the village’s name is ‘at the stream’. Holding such a strategic position, Reeth has, in recent times, acquired the title of ‘capital’ of Mid Swaledale. By the early 19th century, Reeth had developed into a thriving town, expanded by a long history of lead mining, in much the same way Cleator, not far from the start of the walk, grew at the behest of the iron-ore industry along the Cumberland coastal fringe. But it was, perhaps surprisingly for a place commonly associated with harsh and rough forms of employment, almost as much the villagers’ aptitude for producing handknitted gloves, stockings and sailor caps that helped the town to develop. People knitted whenever they could, to increase their family incomes, but the activity died out when machinery replaced the traditional needles, and men began to wear long trousers instead of breeches and stockings. This evocative aspect of life in Swaledale is explained in absorbing fashion in the Swaledale Fold Museum, hidden away near a corner of the village green. A renowned venue for numerous local fairs, agricultural shows and festivals, Reeth is a place to come back to, and a logical place for an overnight halt.

Reeth to Richmond Distance Height Gain

16.5km (10¼ miles) 335m (1100 feet)

Walkers who have taken the high-level route from Keld to Reeth will find the next section, to Richmond, a complete and surprising contrast. The River Swale and its wooded valley is never far away, and the whole journey threaded with variety and interest – an old priory, two lovely, peaceful

villages, and a landscape of limestone escarpments, copses, rich meadows and leafy becks serve as a perfect balance to the scars of industry recently left behind. Those who travelled the valley route, enjoying the lush richness of the English countryside at its best, will find their appetites even further indulged here. This is a day for relaxing, and any plans to push on beyond the Richmond area would be rendering a disservice to a most pleasant section of the walk. The original route plodded on along the road from Fremington to Marrick Priory, completely ignoring a splendid opportunity to rejoin the Swale, which makes a far more satisfying, and safer, start to the day than dodging traffic.

Leave Reeth at the southern end of the village square and follow the road to cross the bridge over the Swale. A short distance away, at a wicket gate on the right, a signpost indicates a path to Grinton. Take this to rejoin the river for a short while, then move slightly away from it on a green path across pastureland as far as Grinton Bridge. Approaching Grinton Bridge note the impressive form of Grinton Lodge high on the moors above. Once a shooting lodge, it is now a youth hostel. Cross the road at the bridge, and rejoin the riverbank on the other side. Reluctantly, the path soon has to leave the river, rising to join the metalled access road to Marrick Priory. Go right, along the road, a simple and meandering stroll with the priory ahead, beckoning from its verdant surrounds. MARRICK PRIORY Marrick Priory was a 12th-century Benedictine priory, occupied by nuns from 1154 until Henry VIII had his way with it, after which it became a ruin, with only the tower remaining. Later it was to become the parish church and a separate farm. In the late 1960s the priory buildings were converted into an outdoor education and residential centre. It is not open to visitors, though you are allowed to have a look around the grounds.

Near the priory entrance a track crosses a cattle-grid, reaching within a few paces a gate and stile on the left (signposted ‘Marrick’). Follow this path to a bench at the entrance to Steps Wood, from where the retrospective view frames distant Reeth among branches of a nearby tree. Go through the gate and enter Steps Wood, climbing easily on a paved way, known as the ‘Nuns Causeway’ or ‘Nunnery Steps’, linking the priory and Marrick village. On leaving Steps Wood, follow the path along the edge of a few fields, through gates, to reach a converted Wesleyan chapel at the entrance to Marrick. Follow the lane ahead and at a junction (signposted) bear right, continuing to a T-junction near a telephone box. Turn right here to another junction (noting the interesting sundial on a nearby cottage). At the junction again go right, following the lane (a dead end) past the old school, shortly to turn left (signposted) up a rough green lane leading to a series of stiles across brief fields. The path skirts dilapidated sheds and rusting farm equipment, gently climbing all the time, until, at its highest point, the fields broaden, a more satisfying vista opens up ahead, and the route begins a steady descent to a broad track serving Nun Cote Nook farm. At the track go right, through a gate, and almost immediately left (signposted), continuing across broad meadowlands to the charmingly renovated cottage at Ellers. Pass around Ellers and cross Ellers Beck by a footbridge, then slanting up the next two fields to reach a gate near the access track to Hollins Farm. Beyond Hollins Farm, Hutton’s Monument, a towering obelisk in view for some while, commemorates Matthew Hutton, a member of the once-influential family that lived at Marske Hall.

Follow the track right for a short distance, and then, without entering Hollins Farm, go left, skirting a small copse to a stile. Cross the next field to a wall, and follow the wall left and, just as it enters a confined pathway, use a gate on the right to cross the ensuing field diagonally to gain the once-important road

linking Reeth and Richmond, there descending steeply, right, into Marske village. MARSKE Marske lies in an insignificant side valley of the Swale, a delightful retreat quietly going about its own business, where, it seems, only the tread of walkers disturbs the peace. The grounds of nearby Marske Hall add much to the village’s natural loveliness, while the 12th-century church of St Edmund is worth a moment’s pause. The Huttons were the dominant family at Marske Hall for many years, producing two Archbishops of York, but, as W Riley mentions in The Yorkshire Pennines of the North-West (1934), ‘The dale has bred men of another kidney besides bishops.’ His grandfather used to tell of, ‘the carryings-on there used to be in the big houses in his day, when the gentry wouldn’t let their guests leave the table till they were too drunk to walk upstairs to bed; and the common folk were just as bad – mad on cock-fighting and coursing.’

Cottage at Ellers

Go down the road, amid splendid scenery, especially the view northwards of the upper valley of Marske Beck, and passing on the right the ornamental grounds of Marske Hall. Near the river, at a meeting of roads, go left, over

Marske Bridge and uphill to a T-junction. Turn right at the junction and continue along the road for about 600m, until by a stile on the right access can be gained to a series of fields crossed by a narrow path that later drops to cross wooded Clapgate Beck by a footbridge. A prominent path then slants upwards to a conspicuous cairn, which turns out to be on an access track leading to West Applegarth Farm, and passes beneath the limestone cliffs of Applegarth Scar. Continue to, and around, West Applegarth Farm to a barn ahead and a little to the right. Drop down, right, slightly towards the barn, and go through a narrow gate near a wall corner. Keep on past the barn to another stile and then across a field to reach the access track to Low Applegarth Farm. Cross straight over this to the next stile, pass close by High Applegarth, and so gain the road leading to East Applegarth. Before long, however, leave the road at a stile on the left to cross a pasture well above the farm. At a stile just above East Applegarth the path meets a rough track climbing from the farm, and this is followed through a rough, untidy landscape to enter Whitcliffe Wood. WHITCLIFFE WOOD AND WILLANCE’S LEAP Popular as a local walk, Whitcliffe Wood and the nearby scar have a relaxing air about them, a windingdown opportunity as Richmond is approached. This whole stretch, through the seemingly endless ‘Applegarth’ farms, is a haven of quiet retreat, perched high above the Swale. It is here, as the route crosses Deep Dale, that the Yorkshire Dales National Park, which has been with us since Nine Standards Rigg, is finally left. Just north of East Applegarth, a spot known as Willance’s Leap is associated with Robert Willance, a worthy citizen of Richmond who in 1606 was hunting on horseback on the tops when mist descended. In his haste to get home he missed his way, and contrived to spur his horse over the cliff edge. In the fall to the valley 200 feet below the horse was killed, but its rider surprisingly survived, although he lost a leg as a result. Willance, who lived to become an alderman of Richmond, celebrated his deliverance by presenting the town with a silver chalice as a thanksgiving.

On leaving Whitcliffe Wood, a broad track runs on the High Leases, soon to become a metalled road (Westfields) leading down directly into Richmond. Before long it is possible to go through one of a number of low stiles on the right at the top edge of West Field for a parallel, but easier underfoot, descent to the town, either returning to Westfields, or continuing to the bottom corner of the field to meet the Reeth road (A6108) on the edge of town. This long descending approach to Richmond via Westfields meets the A6108 near a corner shop and post office. Follow the main road (Victoria Road) left and continue along it as far as the tourist information office. At a roundabout, go right into King Street, which leads to the cobbled Market Place, at the centre of which stands Holy Trinity Church. Since Richmond is regarded by common consent as the ‘gateway’ to the Dales, it follows that this section, ‘Into the Dales’, here comes to an end – the Vale of Mowbray awaits.

4 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY RICHMOND Richmond and the adjacent Vale of Mowbray are totally dominated by Richmond’s castle, as they have been since people first lived there, which almost certainly means since 1071. This was when the first earl, Alan of Richmond, Alan Rufus (or ‘Alan the Red’), commander of the Norman rearguard at the Battle of Hastings, received from William the Conqueror the not inconsiderable possessions of the Saxon Earl Edwin as a reward.

Richmond Castle The name ‘Richmond’ comes from the French ‘Riche-mont’, meaning ‘Strong Hill’, and many of its first inhabitants were of French origin. Indeed, skilled French workmen were brought from France to instruct local labour in castle-building techniques. With a vast inner courtyard, and built on a siege-worthy scale in a commanding position, the castle was a formidable fortress, though there is little historical evidence to suggest it was ever really put to the test. Two kings of Scotland, however, William the Lion and David II, have been imprisoned here, although there is a suggestion that at least one other was (and presumably still is) present, for legend recounts that a local man, a potter named Thompson, while seeking to escape the tongue of his nagging wife, stumbled on an entrance in the rocks beneath the castle. With peace and quiet still no doubt a strong notion in his mind, he ventured in, first finding a subterranean passage, and then a huge cavern. The walls all around were hung with shields and armour, on the floor lay a number of armoured knights, while in the centre, on a raised dais, lay a regal figure grasping a sword. From his recounting of the tale, and his description of the shields, the arms of King Arthur and his knights were identified. Alas, Thompson, when called upon to do so, was unable to find the entrance to the cave again. Whether this henpecked potter was the same man who discovered the king and his knights in a cave below the Bwlch y Saethau, near Snowdon in North Wales, while escaping once more from his nagging wife, is not recorded – nor, indeed, what he used to drink, and in what quantities! In similar vein is the story of how soldiers quartered in Richmond determined to test an old tale that a secret underground passage ran from the castle to Easby Abbey. Unwilling to make the journey themselves, through long dark tunnels with precarious roofing and foul air, they filled the head of a young drummer boy with visions of treasure and sent him into the tunnel. As the boy struggled on, he rattled away at his drum, while the soldiers above ground traced its muffled sound through the streets of the town. Fainter and fainter came the sound of the drum until, near the site occupied by the former grammar school, it ceased altogether. Whether the boy ever found his treasure is not known, for he never returned. But, so it is said, on a quiet night you can still hear the sound of drumming, very faint and

distant, coming from underground. On a less sceptical note, Richmond’s Market Place is the largest horseshoe market place in England, and was once the outer bailey of the castle. It was re-cobbled in 1771, when Matthew and Mark Topham were paid sixpence a yard to find stones and set them in place. How far they looked for their stones is open to debate, for the present-day obelisk is on the site of a medieval cross that was pulled down in the same year. Below the obelisk, incidentally, is a reservoir holding 12,000 gallons of water, which was piped into the town. A water supply pipe, circa 1782, will be passed on the way out of town. The Chapel of Holy Trinity, which stands in the centre of the Market Place, was founded in 1135. It has been altered and repaired many times, and has seen service as a court, prison and school. Today it is the Regimental Museum of the Green Howards, the county regiment of the old North Riding of Yorkshire. For walkers doing their best to escape towns and cities for a while, there are opportunities to bypass Richmond (crossing the Swale to Hudswell, for example), but really the town and its feeling of saturated antiquity is altogether too good to miss. And though the castle dominates, there is below its towering walls a labyrinthine network of narrow alleyways and back streets, ‘wynds’, formed by groups of quaint, haphazard buildings that would give modern planners apoplexy, should anyone submit a planning application to build today in the same style. Throw in the Culloden Tower, built in 1746 to mark the defeat of Bonnie Prince Charlie by the Duke of Cumberland, and the odd folly or two, and the whole town becomes an open-air museum of the grandest kind, and a tribute to those people of Richmond who have helped to preserve its unique character through the centuries.

The Vale of Mowbray is the northerly extension of the Vale of York, and an interlude that is almost wholly agricultural. It is largely flat, and at Danby Wiske reaches the lowest point of the walk away from the coasts. Though undoubted pleasure awaits those who enjoy high-level walking, as they cross the Cleveland Hills, I can think of no valid reason, other than shortage of time, for rushing across the vale. It is a marathon crossing, a forced march that will leave your energy depleted the next day, when what is needed is fitness and a keen mind to fully appreciate what the Cleveland Hills and the North York Moors have to offer. The low-lying land, barley fields, quiet farms and rural scenery of the vale are, in any case, valuable, diet-balancing ingredients of the Coast to Coast feast, and should not be gobbled indecently. There is growing evidence, too, that many walkers agree with this view, and having trekked from Richmond to Danby Wiske, then extend the next day a short distance from the designated route to spend the night at Osmotherley rather than Ingleby Cross.

Richmond to Bolton-on-Swale Distance Height Gain

10.5km (6½ miles) 70m (230 feet)

Cross the Market Place and descend via New Road, Bargate and Bridge Street to Richmond Bridge. RICHMOND BRIDGE Richmond Bridge dates from 1788–9, and was built by two different contractors, one operating for Richmond Corporation and the other for the county council. It spans the Swale, which from its exuberant, fast-flowing youth high above Keld has grown to full stature, slower and more mature as it sets out across the farmlands of the Vale of York to join the River Ure, and so become the Ouse. En route you will find the water supply pipe described in the information box about Richmond, an antiquated street lamp and, near the Green, another sundial on a wall. The Green was once an industrial suburb of Richmond, the ‘rough’ quarter, as it has been described. Here there used to be a tannery,

dyeworks, corn mill, fulling mill and brewery.

Cross the bridge and shortly turn left into playing fields. Keep left and follow the edge of the field, with the ramparts of the castle towering high above, to enter woodland and climb to reach another field at a stile. Follow a green path going left, and as this starts to descend, locate a kissing-gate on the right by which the route gains a paved way in front of a row of houses (Priory Villas). At the end of the houses, keep ahead and slightly left, to join the main road (A6136). Turn right and follow the road until, at a sharp bend, and just after crossing in-flowing Sand Beck, the route goes left (signposted) to take a service road leading to the sewage works, which contrast rather sharply with the ruins of Easby Abbey across the Swale, though the view of the ruins is somewhat obscured by undergrowth. Easby Abbey was founded in 1152 for a group of Premonstratensian Canons, last encountered at Shap Abbey. Its rather more substantial remains are also open to the public.

At the sewage works, skirt around the boundary on a clear path for a whiffy five minutes that leads to a stile entering woodland. A muddy path treks on through the woodland and crosses a footbridge, finally climbing to escape from the trees and undergrowth not far from the ruins of Hagg Farm. Press on past the ruins along a narrow trod through undergrowth, and then by an improving path climb an easy brow before aiming across the next field to a stile in the far corner. Descend along a field boundary (left), and in the next field aim a quarter right on a narrow path to reach a concealed stile on the edge of more woodland. In company with a small stream, continue to a driveway leading into, and through, the hamlet of Colburn, crossing a bridge and passing a pub before coming to a lane end. As the lane bends right, keep ahead to pass around a farmyard. Go right, along the edge of a pasture, to join a cart track. Follow the track, left, but leave it before a fence at the end of the second pasture by bearing left, and shortly right, through a gate towards St Giles Farm. ST GILES HOSPITAL Nearby is the site of St Giles Hospital, one of many run under monastic orders, though there is little to see on the ground from the route. The site was excavated as recently as 1990, and revealed a large number of skeletons that were all removed to York for further research.

Do not enter St Giles Farm, but go left on a path to meet its access track at a stile. Bear left, and only a short while later go left over a step-stile and forward along a field boundary, crossing the boundary fence at another stepstile tucked in a corner about halfway down the field edge. Now a path continues along the top of a bank above the Swale, later merging with a broad track that leads on to Thornbrough Farm. On reaching the farm, go through a gate, passing the farm buildings, and then immediately descend left to the

point where the Swale, and our path, passes under the A1, the way onward being over more stiles. Pass under the A1 and press on, keeping straight ahead, to pass beneath a defunct metal railway bridge, shortly beyond which the route bears to the right towards Catterick racecourse, crossing the end of an overflow car park to reach the A6136 (the old A1), with Catterick Bridge on the left. CATTERICK BRIDGE Catterick Bridge, more or less as we now see it, was commissioned by seven local gentry in 1422, and built by three stonemasons, each of whom put their stonemason’s mark on the stones of the old bridge. The bridge took three years to build, at a total cost of £173 6 s 8 d. Beside the bridge, the Bridge House Hotel, also built in more spacious days, has a style and charm often lacking in these days of mechanisation and standardization – its atmosphere and tradition date back to the old coaching days. In 1442 the hotel was known as the George and Dragon, and an important coaching halt between London and Scotland. Until 1950 the present hotel was owned by the Lawsons of Brough Hall, Catterick. The area around the hotel has great historical interest, dating to the time when Catterick Bridge was a Brigantian city, then known as ‘Cherdarich’, meaning ‘the camp by the water’. When the Romans arrived they extended the city into a great military centre, and Dere Street, the main Roman road to the north, forded the river at Catterick Bridge. The Romans renamed the area ‘Cataractonium’, though this is an ancient British word, borrowed by the Romans.

Cross the road with care and go left over the bridge, following the abutments round, right, to a gated squeeze-stile giving access to a meadow. Follow the Swale, tackling stiles and gates until, after passing along the edge of an elongated pasture, you arrive at a metal gate giving onto a permissive path that is a welcome substitute for the roadside walking that previously was necessary here. Here we bid farewell to the Swale, which has been our companion since we first met it near Keld. It slips away to join the Ure, remaining in the distance for a while longer, though we never again tramp its banks.

Follow the path through the site of a former gravel works, finally emerging onto a surfaced track. Turn right along this, and then take the first turning on the left, a broad track leading to the edge of Bolton-on-Swale. At the end of the track the route meets the B6271. Go right for a short distance, and then left, near the village pump, to head for the village church, St Mary’s. ST MARY’S, BOLTON-ON-SWALE St Mary’s Church is a delightful structure, its clock tower constructed of exquisitely hued sandstone blocks. Brothers of the Abbey of St Mary’s in York originally built the church in the early 14th century. There were certainly earlier churches – Saxon and Norman – on this site, and what remained of those was incorporated into the present Gothic design. But the principal feature of interest here is the monument in the churchyard, dedicated to one Henry Jenkins, whose claim to fame was that from his birth at nearby Ellerton in the year 1500, he lived to be 169, dying at Ellerton in 1670. Henry made his living from salmon fishing and thatching cottages, but he remembered being sent as a lad of 12 with a cartload of arrows to meet the Earl of Surrey’s army on its march northwards to the Battle of Flodden (1513). The churchyard monument is a fitting tribute to the man, even if the mason did rather miscalculate his

word spacing.

Bolton-on-Swale church

Bolton-on-Swale to Danby Wiske Distance Height Gain

11km (6.9 miles) None

Between Bolton-on-Swale and Danby Wiske the route makes use of a succession of farmed fields to link these two charming villages. In a few places, notably close to farms, the going underfoot is less than ideal, but the route overall is a great joy to follow. If you need to hurry, it is possible to hoof it along quiet back roads from Ellerton Hill, via Streetlam, to Danby Wiske, though this holds no appeal beyond speed of passage. This high-speed alternative, which is 1km (0.6 miles) shorter, is given in Appendix A.

At St Mary’s Church, go left along the lane to a stile on the right, just after a large building in private grounds. In the ensuing field, follow a path, left, which escorts lazy Bolton Beck round the field edge to a step-stile. In the next field, follow the edge, and do the same again in the next field to reach a dilapidated stone bridge on the left. Cross the bridge and a stile, and then walk downstream to meet the access track to Layland’s Farm. Cross the farm track, and in the next field follow the beck to a stile near a bridge, giving onto a lane near Ellerton Hill. Go left along the minor road to Ellerton Hill, and here leave it by going right onto a wide track to pass houses and reach a large field. Now follow a

bridleway along the field boundary down to a hedge gap, and forward to a gate giving onto the B6271 at Ellerton Bridge. Follow the road (left) for about 1km (½ mile) to a sharp bend (to the right) with trees on both sides of the road. KIPLIN HALL On the way, you pass the entrance to Kiplin Hall, built as a hunting lodge in 1620 for James I’s Secretary of State, George Calvert. Its design in red brick was unique in Jacobean architecture, and it is today one of the finest buildings of its period in Britain.

As the road bends to the right, go left onto a broad track leading to Ladybank House and other properties. Continue past them to enter an enclosed path that ends as it enters the corner of a large arable field. Follow the right-hand field margin to a gate, just before which a ditch is crossed. Follow the on-going field-edge path to the ruins of Stanhowe Cottage. The field paths here are well maintained by the local farmer to encourage birdlife and the growth of wild flowers.

Bolton Beck

Press on beyond the cottages until another stream is crossed, just after a gate. A short way on, at a hedge corner with farm buildings away to the left, keep forward across the field to a hedgerow corner and, further on, a solitary large tree, beyond which the field boundary leads to meet the B6271 once more, at a bend. Here turn left, without touching on the main road, and head north towards Red House Farm, following a public bridleway. Just after passing Red House Farm, turn right to Moor House Farm, and pass the farmhouse to reach a gate on the right giving into a field. Turn left along the field boundary (often very ‘farmy’) to a step-stile. Over this, turn right through a gate and over another stile before heading slightly left across a pasture to step-stiles either side of a sleeper bridge spanning a stream. Strike across the next field to another stile, and maintain the same direction in the ensuing field to locate another narrow footbridge over a field-edge ditch. Cross the ensuing stile, and then follow the right-hand field edge to a gap and a clear path running out to meet the Streetlam road, not far from Brockholme Farm/Green Croft. Turn right along the road for about 400m, and then leave it by branching left onto a broad access track leading up High Brockholme. When the access bears right to the farm, keep ahead and soon reach the edge of a large pasture. Go down the right-hand edge of this. On the far side, go left to a stile beside a gate. Cross the stile and turn left, to be confronted by a wide gap in a hedgerow. Ignore this, and turn right up the field edge until it reaches a gate giving into an enclosed track, lightly wooded with willow scrub and often overgrown. In spite of the tangle, this is a lovely stretch, finally reaching daylight again at the head of an arable field. Follow the field edge left, and shortly swing right along one last field margin to reach the road into Danby Wiske. Go left along the road to enter the village.

Crossing the Vale of Mowbray near Stanhowe Cottage DANBY WISKE CHURCH The village church is a delight, though its dedication is unknown, the records being destroyed when Scottish raiders came this way in the 12th century. Danby Wiske itself dated from Saxon times, so there was almost certainly a Saxon church on this site. The early Norman church that succeeded it has largely been incorporated into the later Norman/Early English church we see today. It has a lovely Norman tympanum over the south door, along with a Norman font and Jacobean pews.

Danby Wiske to Ingleby Cross Distance Height Gain

14km (8¾ miles) 65m (215 feet)

More easy rural walking ensues, taking the route to the very edge of the Cleveland Hills. This is a perfect time to relax and plod on happily, in preparation for the effort that the hills and moors to come will demand. The Vale of Mowbray is a gentle, soothing stretch, where everything is tidily in its place, birds call constantly from flower-decked hedgerows, cows peer at you inquisitively as they go about their daily munching, and all the villages are neatly trimmed and washed. Beginning with some unavoidable road walking, it is the brief passage that prepares the way for the grand finale.

Follow the road ahead through Danby Wiske, passing the White Swan Inn, and soon to cross by a single-arched bridge the overgrown stream that is the River Wiske. Continue along the road, crossing the east coast main railway line and going past the turning down to Lazenby Hall, with grass verges from time to time to ease the plodding. After about 2km (1.2 miles) the road reaches a junction with Crowfoot Lane. Go left here and follow the road to the busy A167 at Oaktree Hill. Cross the road and go left until, just after Oaktree Farm (on the left), a rough track (gate and stile) leaves the road, right. Head along the track, flanked by hedgerows, and later, keep ahead with a hedgerow on the right to a stile. Once across the stile, the path, seasonally subdued by overgrowth, fights its way along a narrow tract of ground towards White House Farm, where it starts to improve. Without approaching the farm, continue ahead, as captivating glimpses of the Cleveland Hills appear between gaps in otherwise cloaking hedgerows. Finally, the track reaches a minor back road, Deighton Lane, at a bend. Go left for a short distance, but only as far as a farm access leading to Moor House. Keep straight on between farm buildings to a gate. Through the gate turn left to cross to a stile at the bottom, and then follow the field margin round to a gap on the left. Then go ahead to cross a small stream, continuing half-left across another enclosure towards the ruins of a farm. Cross a stile near an open barn and follow a field margin away towards Northfield Farm. At the end of the field, cross another stream. In the large meadow that follows, head directly for Northfield Farm on a green path, aiming a little to the left of the buildings, and locate a stile across an intermediate fence, on the left. Ahead and at a step-stile (waymarked), the path reaches a farm access. Now go left to pass round the buildings at Northfield House farm, and there swing right to pursue the access road to its junction with Long Lane. Long Lane is a less well-known Roman road, and here the route goes right along its metalled surface for 200m until, at a signposted farm access, it heads left and through a gate (cattle-grid) towards Wray House farm.

On reaching the farm buildings, go right down a short access track to a gate and step-stile, with a marked railway-crossing point directly ahead. Ignore this crossing, however, and instead go to the left along a hedgerow, and then head across the field to a concrete stile at a pedestrian crossing of the railway. Once safely across the railway, traverse the field that follows to a bottom corner where there is a metal footbridge between stiles. Cross this, and in a few strides come to the edge of another field. Now head left along the field margin, trekking around two sides until it meets Low Moor Lane, a surfaced minor lane that takes the route on for a while, to the left, and passes close by Harsley Grove farm. Here go right on a gravel track to pass Deepdale farm. Throughout the whole of the crossing from Danby Wiske, the scenery is entirely pastoral, the land given over to agriculture, and the walking of the easiest kind, with barely a gradient to be encountered anywhere. In every direction, cultivated farm fields, hedgerows and coppices stretch as far as the eye can see. The retrospective view is of the hills of Swaledale, now seeming far, far away, while ahead the Cleveland Hills are almost beneath our feet. As the gravel extension of Low Moor Lane meets a road at a bend, go right for a short distance to another road, and there go left, but leaving it almost immediately by turning down an access track to Sydal Lodge. On the approach to Sydal Lodge, continue ahead through a gate to a stile and gate near a large open barn. Keep the farm buildings on the right, and continue ahead on a narrow grassy path along the left-hand field edge, until diverted right to a mid-field signpost. Here, bear left and descend to a footbridge, once more meeting the River Wiske on its continuing and vain search for excitement. Though modest and slow moving, nevertheless the River Wiske has given its name, as a suffix, to a number of villages along its route. It finally meets the Swale not far from Thirsk.

Cross the footbridge and immediately ascend an arable field to reach the overgrown ruins of Brecken Hill farm, where, in season, a feast may be had of plums and elderberry. Pass to the right of the buildings, and then carry out a series of rights and lefts around field margins and along access lanes, passing Longlands and Crinkle Carr farms, to finally to reach the A19. Cross this busy dual carriageway, linking Northallerton and Stockton-on-Tees – this is probably the most hazardous moment of the whole walk. Follow the lane ahead to Ingleby Arncliffe.

Water tower, Ingleby Arncliffe INGLEBY ARNCLIFFE The history of Ingleby Arncliffe can be traced back to the Norman Conquest. From the Domesday Book it appears that there used to be two manors held by the king – Engelbi and Ernclive – and it is from these that the present names derives. ‘Engelbi’ is thought to mean ‘the village of the English’, an allusion to the survival of an English settlement amid what would have been a predominantly Scandinavian population. ‘Ernclive’, or ‘Eagles Cliff’, almost certainly owes its name to the steep, wooded cliff to the southeast.

On reaching Ingleby Arncliffe, a quick left and right then lead down to Ingleby Cross. At Ingleby Cross the route enters the North York Moors National Park, and can be said to have engaged upon the final lap, the remaining 80km (50 miles). Heather-clad moors await, extravagant scenery, wide panoramas and, in just a few days, journey’s end. Sadly, the ‘cross’ of Ingleby Cross is missing, or it was in August 2005, when this book was revised, having been blown down in gales a few weeks earlier. It is hoped that it won’t be too long before it is restored.

5 THE NORTH YORK MOORS Stretching from the outskirts of Thirsk in the west to the coast in the east, and about half that distance in a north–south direction, the North York Moors present an open, unenclosed, virtually uninhabited expanse of high moorland that seems to have been devised solely with walkers in mind. In reality the moors are not one, but a huge collection of them, almost 150, each bearing a name, though quite where one ends and the next begins is a matter for geographers and others who seek to debate such niceties. Along the southern boundary of the moors lies the Vale of Pickering, feeding into its companion, the Vale of Mowbray to the west, while the northern extremities filter out as they reach Teesside. It is not by chance that the whole of this area, looking on a map not unlike the outline of Australia, has been embraced within the North York Moors National Park. It is a beautiful and true wilderness, traversed by few roads, and most of those seemingly aimless. Here pheasant run madly about the woodlands, grouse clatter through the low heather where once dinosaurs and pterodactyls may have roamed, and primitive man settled at a time when climatic conditions became favourable. Not unlike the moorlands of the Northern Pennines in character, the North York Moors are, however, rather less bleak, a touch more colourful, and with escape in an emergency a little easier to effect – though when the mist rolls in, and everything is lost save for the few strides ahead, you may be forgiven for doubting that observation. There is much here to please walker and naturalists, as well as geologist and industrial archaeologist. Few walls or fences encroach onto these gently rolling moors, contrasting sharply with the patterned fields viewed from the northern escarpment, here known as the Cleveland Hills, where the loftiness of the vantage point also arouses sensations of great freedom and satisfaction. Not by chance is a good section of this magnificent upland also shared with two other walks of note, the Lyke Wake Walk, a gruelling 40-mile trek against the clock, and the Cleveland Way, which in 1969 became Britain’s second long-distance path, all 109 miles of it – not bad for such a compact area. Walkers staying overnight at Ingleby Cross, or nearby, might consider taking time out to visit Mount Grace Priory. MOUNT GRACE PRIORY Mount Grace Priory was founded by Thomas Holland, Duke of Surrey and Earl of Kent, and a nephew of Richard II, in 1398, though it was not completed until after 1440. Its full title is ‘The House of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and St Nicholas of Mount Grace in Ingleby’, and it remains today of considerable ecclesiastical interest, being one of the finest examples of a Carthusian monastery existing anywhere. Life in these monasteries was one we would countenance today only with abject horror. Mount Grace

housed 15 or so hermit–monks, living as solitaries in two-storey cells, 22 feet square. The ground floor had a fireplace and a wooden staircase to the room above, with a small garden separated from the next by high walls, in which the monk worked alone. Meeting their fellows only for matins and vespers, and the occasional feast day when services were held in the church, the monks would spend 10 hours each day in their cells, reading, praying, eating and meditating. So that no contact might be made with the server, food was brought to the monks and passed through a right-angled hatch. The monks remained at Mount Grace for 140 years, until the dissolution in 1539. Now in the guardianship of English Heritage, the priory is generally open to the public, and contains a reconstructed and furnished cell. Walkers heading no further than Clay Bank Top will find ample time in the day to divert through Arncliffe Wood to the priory, where the austerity and greyness of the lives of those who lived and died there is most noticeably impressed on a receptive mind.

Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top Distance Height Gain

18.4km (11½ miles) 775m (2545 feet)

On the last lap now, so to speak, but between Ingleby Cross and Glaisdale there are few opportunities actually along the line of the walk to find accommodation. Fortunately, many bed-and-breakfast proprietors, with accommodation in the numerous villages that shelter beneath the Cleveland Hills and the eastern moors, offer ferry services, and will pick up walkers from virtually anywhere. In some instances, this means being able to spend more than one night at a particular location, with transportation at the start and end of each day to resume the walking. Purists, of course, would never think of such a thing, but there are many advantages to it. Some concern hygiene, dry clothes, comfort and warm beds, others the possibility of having a day or two with a light rucsac for a change. The customary day’s end to this section is Clay Bank Top (nearest telephone 1km off-route to the south), though the up-and-down nature of the stretch from Huthwaite Green at the head of Scugdale can be quite tiring. Unless time is of pressing concern, I strongly advocate tackling these final few days at a relaxed pace. The North York Moors are no makeweight, possessing just as much as Lakeland to please a walker who has already travelled 140 miles and now, with confidence and determination, has the end firmly in sight.

Leave Ingleby Cross down the road at the side of the Blue Bell Inn to reach and cross the A172, so gaining a metalled road (over a cattle-grid) leading to Ingleby Arncliffe church, a simple, uncomplicated structure back by the gables of Arncliffe Hall. ARNCLIFFE HALL Arncliffe Hall is a fine Georgian house, dating from 1754, and probably built by John Carr of York. The adjacent All Saints’ Church was built in 1821 to replace a much earlier building on the same site. It is regarded as one of the finest examples of a rural church of the Regency period – one that has remained largely unchanged. Climb easily for a while to the brow of a hill and a gate on the left, and continue on a fenced track

towards Arncliffe Wood, part of the Forestry Commission’s Cleveland Forest. Go right on entering the wood, and follow an undulating course through the forest. The path rises steadily to a T-junction. Here go right and continue to the edge of the forest at a gate, beyond which a track leads down to Osmotherley. At this point the Cleveland Way is first encountered.

Note Walkers heading for an overnight stay in Osmotherley should leave the forest at this point, following the Cleveland Way across fields, through three kissing gates, past Chapel Wood Farm, until reaching the road leading into Osmotherley, there turning right into the village. OSMOTHERLEY Osmotherley is a small, thriving village at the point where the Cleveland Way, the Lyke Wake Walk and the Coast to Coast meet. Originally the community developed as an agricultural market village, but during the 18th and 19th centuries it was also a thriving industrial centre. Many of the houses date from these days, built in the period 1800–30 to provide accommodation for workers in the alum quarries and jet mines, and constructed of traditional Yorkshire sandstone. The village’s name has always been a source of interest. In the Domesday Book it is recorded as ‘Asmundrelac’, Asmund being an Old Norse name. Later, under Anglian influence, this would corrupt to ‘Osmund’s Ley’, a ‘ley’, like a ‘thwaite’, being a clearing, but, as ever, there is a more imaginative tale to be told. A local princess dreamt her son, Os (or Oswy), would drown on a certain day, and so on that day ordered a nurse to take him to a safe place. Roseberry Topping, then known as Odinsberg, the prominent cone-shaped hill near Great Ayton that has been in view for a while as the Cleveland Hills are approached, seemed safe enough. Certainly, the nurse found it a safe and comforting haven, for she fell asleep, allowing the baby prince to wander away. When the nurse awoke it was to find the prince lying face down in a hillside spring, dead. He was buried at Osmotherley. Later, his mother died of grief and was buried at his side, so ‘Os-by-his-mother-lay’. Chronologically, it doesn’t tie up, of course – perhaps the village should be ‘Mother-by-Os-ley’! It is all highly improbable, but why spoil a good yarn with the trivia of truth.

Continuing from the forest edge, the main route does not leave the forest, but doubles back – signposted ‘Cleveland Way’, as are most of the signposts for the next few miles (the Cleveland Way symbol is the national trail white acorn on a black background). Climb away from the gate on a clear path through South Wood. At the top of the wood the path escorts a wall to a radio station, squeezing then between the station and the wall to approach the summit of Beacon Hill, with the first wide-ranging views of the Cleveland Plain now coming into view, and a stunning view over heather moors of the onward route. THE LYKE WAKE WALK The trig point on the summit of Beacon Hill officially marks the start of the Lyke Wake Walk – a 40-mile trek across the moors that must be completed within 24 hours. These days the walk starts at the Lyke Wake Stone on a little mound opposite the first car park at the eastern end of Cod Beck Reservoir. The Lyke Wake Walk began with an article in the Dalesman magazine in August 1955, with the first challenge being taken up on 1 October 1955. Those first challengers, who included Bill Cowley, instigator of the walk, ‘cheered each other on by reciting the Lyke Wake Dirge’. Normally sung at funerals in the 17th century ‘by the vulgar people in Yorkshire’, the dirge suggests that everyone, after death, must make a journey over a wide and difficult moor. Those who have done good deeds in their life – given away food and drink, silver and gold, written helpful guidebooks(?) – will receive aid and will cross the moor safely. But if not, the luckless soul will sink into hell flames – or Rosedale bog!

Continue away from the top of Beacon Hill to arrive at a gate. Another, just a few strides away, gives access to the heathered expanse of Scarth Wood Moor. Now an open track leads on across the moor, and is a particular delight in August when the heather is in bloom. SCARTH WOOD MOOR Scarth Wood Moor, like most of the moors that make up the North York Moors, is of considerable prehistoric significance, and has a number of Bronze Age ‘barrows’, or grave mounds. Geologically, it is affected by three faults, the largest being along the line of Scarth Nick, soon to be encountered, and originally formed by an overflow of melt water from a huge glacier that once filled Scugdale. Ice sheets have advanced and retreated over the British landscape at least four times in the last two million years, a period of alternating warm and cold climatic conditions known as the Great Ice Age, which effectively refrigerated everything. The last period, known as the Devensian, did not end until about 11,000–10,000 years ago, when plants began to recolonise the moors, animals returned, and prehistoric people appeared on the scene.

At the edge of Scarth Wood Moor

When the path rejoins a wall (the handiwork of a community programme team working here in 1988), a low stone waymark for the Lyke Wake Walk (LWW) is soon reached. Here go left and descend to Scarth Nick, following the wall and ignoring more prominent tracks heading off to the right. At Scarth Nick, reached by two flights of cobbled steps that do nothing for your knees, go left along the road to cross a cattle-grid, and then turn immediately right through a gate into forest. DROVE ROADS Scarth Nick is the crossing point of the Hambleton Drove Road, one of numerous routes taken by tough, weather-beaten Scottish cattlemen, hired to drive cattle from Scotland into England to sell at various market towns, even as far south as London. When these drove roads were regularly in use it was a busy time for sheep and cattle farmers, the Industrial Revolution of the late 18th and early 19th centuries aggravating an already growing demand for beef that could not be met by English farmers. Ironically, it was the Industrial Revolution, and the invention of steam power, that sealed the fate of the cattle drovers, as steam power overcame leg

power, and the new railway network made it possible to slaughter cattle locally and send carcasses to markets by rail. Declining rapidly by 1850, at the turn of the century droving had ceased altogether.

The path through the wood soon joins a forest trail, where the walk continues ahead along level ground. At a break in the forest on the left (Cleveland Way sign and Lyke Wake Walk marker stone), leave the level forest trail by starting down a wide stony track. A few strides further on, a brief diversion leads onto a small balcony with a seat that offers a splendid view over the village of Swainby below.

Continue steeply down the track, and at the bottom, at a junction, go left and then almost immediately right (signposted) just before a gate. A fine path now follows the edge of Clain Wood, which contains spreads of bluebell and wood sorrel, both ancient-woodland indicator species. After almost 1km (0.6 miles) look for a stile on the left giving into a field. A grassy track leads down the field to a gate, beyond which lie the ford and footbridge at Piper Beck. Soon join a narrow lane, turning left across Scugdale Beck, and shortly passing Hollin Hill Farm, walking up to a T-junction at Huthwaite Green. Cross the road here to a gate to the right of a telephone box (the last chance to phone for accommodation/pick up before Clay Bank Top), and take the enclosed path leading uphill towards Live Moor Plantation. At a gate you step outside the plantation boundary, to follow a fence round to another gate to reenter the forest below a steep flight of cobbled steps clambering upwards to Live Moor. Keep ahead at an intermediate forest trail to a final gate giving access to the open moor. There is no respite just yet from the uphill toil, as the path tackles the shoulder of Round Hill. But then, at last, it finds easier ground, and lopes off energetically through acres of glorious heather (and a few sprouts of bell heather) in the direction of distant Carlton Moor.

Taking a breather on the seat above Swainby

From Live Moor the onward route is hardly in doubt, being paved the whole way, crossing Gold Hill and the edge of Faceby Bank to plod on up the broad, heathered expanse of Carlton Moor. The presence on Carlton Moor of a broad strip of bare ground may puzzle for a while, especially if visibility is not good. It is the runway of a glider station, a barren, desert-like landscape, strewn with small rocks that seem to offer little prospect of a smooth landing. All this moorland is now Access Land, but the airstrip is excluded. Sandwiched between this ‘runway’ and the escarpment edge, the path continues uneventfully to the summit of Carlton Moor, marked by a trig pillar and a boundary stone. MINING ON CARLTON MOOR Below the moor top, and shortly to be encountered, are some old jet mine workings. Jet in this region is synonymous with Whitby, though the history of jet mining and jet jewellery is much more ancient, beads of the light, fossilised wood having been discovered in Bronze Age burial mounds dating from 2500 to 3500 years ago. Jet was formed about 130 million years ago, when pieces of coniferous driftwood became buried by Jurassic sea mud. In more recent times it was a retired naval captain who introduced two Whitby men to the art of turning on a lathe, leading to the production, around 1800 onwards, of beads and crosses. By 1850 there were over 50 workshops in Whitby alone. Even so, jet would never have received the prominence it did had not Queen Victoria taken to wearing it as court mourning, following the death of Prince Albert. It was already generally recognised as an emblem of mourning, but with royal patronage a boom period followed, and those 50 workshops quadrupled in number, eventually giving employment to over 1400 men and boys. Though the fashion ultimately declined, jet is still carved in Whitby, and may be found by diligent searching on the beaches there. Alum crystals, too, were a product of this remarkable region, with at least 25 quarries active between 1600 and 1871, and nature has not quite finished her work of disguising the massive shale heaps that litter Carlton Bank, and other places. The value of alum lay in its property as a fixative of dyes in cloth, a secret process mastered throughout Italy in the 16th century, and, towards the end of that century, by a member of the Chaloner family in Britain. Requiring 50 to 100 tons of shale to produce one ton of alum crystals, its quarrying was a pick-andshovel nightmare for the poorly paid labourers involved in the long, tedious process of extraction. Once won from the earth, the shale, piled in large mounds, had to be burned slowly, before soaking in water. Then the solution had to be boiled, crystallised and purified, a process that required scrub for the burning, water for soaking, coal for the boiling, and seaweed and human urine for the chemistry – an altogether messy and protracted way of going about business that came to a halt in 1871, with the closure of the Kettleness and Boulby works.

On Carlton Moor

The onward trail from the summit of Carlton Moor picks a cautious way down Carlton Bank, passing the edge of old alum quarries and large waste heaps of burnt shale. On reaching a rough track, keep forward down a path to meet a narrow road. Cross the road and a stile to gain a green track going forward for Cringle Moor, or turn right to Lord Stones Café (toilets and information centre here), an unexpected and very welcome treat hidden beneath a raised embankment. (Perhaps the café should go by the name ‘Lords’ Stone’, since such a stone, known as the ‘Three Lords’ Stone’, stands nearby on the former parish boundary. It commemorates the lords of the time – Duncombe of Helmsley (now Feversham), Marwood of Busby Hall, and Ailesbury, the latter at that time holding Scugdale.) From the café, the path goes left to pass a small copse, and then crosses to a broad green track heading for Cringle Moor. Note Before starting the ascent, the path forks, and the opportunity is presented here to effect a gentler route to Clay Bank Top by branching left

(signpost) along a gently rising, broad green footpath that traverses the northern slopes of the moors. This is an ancient pathway used by jet and alum miners. At one point the path is crossed by a bridleway used by all-terrain cyclists, so take care – at this point some of them will be completely out of control – you’ll understand why when you see what they are descending. The main line of the Coast to Coast, however, keeps right (ahead) to a gate, and from there climbs steadily to the nab of Cringle Moor at Cringle End, where a view indicator, a welcome stone seat and a boundary stone await. All the way to Clay Bank Top now, the on-going path is flagged, an undertaking begun in 1991. It’s hard on the feet, but easy and speedy to follow. CRINGLE MOOR The stone seat on Cringle End was erected in memory of Alec Falconer (alias ‘Rambler’), a founder member of the Middlesbrough Rambling Club, who died in 1968. He promoted the notion of a longdistance walk along the hills and coastline of the North York Moors, but, sadly, died a year before the Cleveland Way was opened. The highest point of Cringle Moor is Drake Howe, a Bronze Age burial mound, and the second highest point on this crossing of the Cleveland Hills. Its summit is set back from the path, and as a result is the only summit along this stretch that is not visited.

The onward path keeps to the escarpment edge above Kirby Bank, before descending steeply through a spill of boulders, stones and mining debris to the broad col before Cold Moor. From the col follow a wall (on the right) along a broad track to reach a streambed. Note Walkers who opted for the gentler route across the northern face of Cringle Moor will also reach this point. Here, a path descends and crosses the stream, then a stile, to continue along the boundary of Broughton Plantation, ultimately to arrive at Clay Bank Top by a sheltered and rather more level passage, though there is a little ascent involved.

Heading for Hasty Bank

The main line, however, goes right just before the stream, through a gate to follow a dilapidated wall ahead, and then left before continuing to the top of the moor. The summit of Cold Moor is marked by a modest sandstone cairn, and is followed by a short and delightful walk along the escarpment edge, descending to a gate above Garfit Gap. Continue ahead along the line of a collapsed wall, passing through two gaps in lateral walls. A final short pull leads to the Wainstones, a tumble of boulders and rock outcrops that represent one of only a small number of rock-climbing opportunities in the North York Moors. Various paths weave a way through the Wainstones, beyond which easy walking leads on across the plateau of Hasty Bank. Stay with the edge of Hasty Bank’s escarpment (a pleasant prospect) before tackling the steep descent to the top of a plantation and wall corner (stile), from there descending a paved and stepped path beside the wall to meet the B1257 Stokesley–Helmsley road at Clay Bank Top, more correctly known as ‘Hagg’s Gate’. Sometimes, just left (north) of Clay Bank Top, a mobile snack bar turns up. Don’t count on it, but it could provide a little extra sustenance.

Throughout the whole of this lengthy traverse, the highlight has been the superb views northwards and the dramatic escarpment dropping to forestry and farmland below, while the pinnacles of the Wainstones provide a stark contrast to the luxurious vegetation that has patterned the journey from Ingleby Cross. Clay Bank Top is an idyllic spot. The bluebell woods of Ingleby Bank stand on one side, with Bilsdale stretching far away on the other. It is here that walkers will need to decide what to do for the night. Those with tents on their backs

will have no problem finding a suitable pitch before too long, but others seeking creature comforts may be dependent on a pick-up service, or the benevolence of local traffic in response to a projecting thumb!

Clay Bank Top to Glaisdale Distance Height Gain

27.25km (17 miles) 310m (1015 feet)

With nothing more than a short pull on to Urra Moor to cause any exertion, the walk to Glaisdale, perhaps longer than some might like, is surprisingly effortless, for quite a long time following the line of the old Rosedale Ironstone Railway, and providing the fastest section of the whole walk. Very few signs of civilisation will be encountered along this stretch until the Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge, and nothing beyond that until Glaisdale is reached. From Clay Bank Top the walk continues to the highest point on the North York Moors, Botton Head on Urra Moor.

Go through the road gate, following a paved path alongside a wall that marks

the boundary of medieval Greenhow deer park, and follows an ancient packhorse track once much used by smugglers. Initially the track climbs energetically, through a narrow cleft in a rocky barrier before reaching a gate, and there gaining access to the open moor of Carr Ridge. CARR RIDGE, URRA MOOR From this point the walking is of the easiest kind, with wide-ranging views across a landscape of constantly changing colours, seen at its vibrant best in late summer and early autumn, when the heather is in full bloom and the sun and clouds combine to provide a limitless number of lighting variations to enhance the scene. This is perhaps the finest stretch in the North York Moors, but potentially the most lethal in poor visibility. The great moor, badly damaged by fire in the 1930s and still recovering, has some deceiving contours, which may be one of the reasons why the justices sitting in Northallerton in 1711 decreed that guideposts should be erected throughout the North Riding of Yorkshire (as it then was). Opposite the trig point on the top of Urra Moor stands one such guidepost, the Hand Stone, with a rough carving on each side depicting a hand, and inscribed with the words ‘This is the way to Stoxla’ (Stokesley) and ‘This is the way to Kirbie’ (Kirkbymoorside). A short way further on, and probably much older, stands the Face Stone, depicting a crude face incised on the east face.

From the top of Urra Moor a broad track begins an easy descent to a spot known as Bloworth Crossing, where the onward route joins the embankments of the former Rosedale Ironstone Railway. At a line of grouse butts on the left, ignore a faint green path going left, but keep ahead instead to a slight boggy depression, climbing easily to the railway embankment. On reaching the trackbed, turn right, and follow this literally all the way to the Lion Inn – roughly 8km (5 miles) – at the head of Blakey Ridge, a long serpentine walk of the easiest kind. THE ROSEDALE IRONSTONE RAILWAY The Rosedale Ironstone Railway was constructed in 1861 to carry iron from Rosedale over the watershed to the furnaces of Teesside. Iron Age man more than likely worked the Rosedale iron ore, but in 1328 Edward III granted land for that purpose to the nuns of Rosedale Abbey. Five centuries later the ore was dismissed as poor quality and worthless, only to be regarded later still as magnetic ore of the highest quality. Once the railway link was made across the moors, some five millions tons were extracted in the first 20 years. By the later 1920s, however, the seams had worn thin, and a depression was looming, presaging the final end of the mining operations.

At a second gate shortly after Bloworth Crossing the route takes its leave of the Cleveland Way, but is not yet able to shake off the Lyke Wake Walk, which continues with us for some time yet. For a distance the railway bed contours neatly around the head of Farndale, a wild and beautiful valley renowned for its springtime display of daffodils, and once destined to be flooded to supply water to Hull, until common sense prevailed. After what seems like an eternity, the Lion Inn at Blakey Junction springs encouragingly into view on the skyline, rather like an oasis after the trackless way of the disused mineral railway. As it is approached, the trackbed is left to

pursue a path through heather leading up towards the inn (signposted ‘LWW’). The old railway is in its own right, if you like, an ancient monument, a testament to hard-working men now long forgotten. We shall see it again soon, circling the head of Rosedale, but when at Blakey Ridge we step off it, its companionship and aid to a speedy passage are finally gone from beneath our feet. (A moment’s pause and a silent word of gratitude for the men who, unwittingly, made part of our journey easy and comfortable to follow, would not go amiss. The path leading up to the inn comes first to a raised circular mound, Blakey Howe, an ancient burial mound used in more recent times for cockfighting. Here, without continuing to the inn, unless staying there overnight or in search of intermediate refreshment, go left at the mound to reach the road between Hutton-le-Hole to the south and Castleton and Westerdale to the north. Head left along the road, which has ample grassy verges, high above Rosedale and its river, the Seven. Opposite a large boundary stone on the left, which has acquired the name Margery Bradley, a path branches right across the head of Rosedale to meet the Rosedale Abbey road near an ungainly whitepainted cross, known, for obvious reasons, as Fat Betty. This is the original line, but is messy and saves little in time. So, just follow the road, and don’t forget to turn right just before reaching Ralph Cross. MOORLAND CROSSES Moorland crosses are a prominent and frequent occurrence on the North York Moors. There are more than 30 named crosses on the moors, probably a larger collection than anywhere else in Britain. Though many have attracted independent names, they are nevertheless a symbol of Christ’s death, and first appeared on the moors during the seventh-century growth of Christianity in the region. In 1974 the prevalence and significance of these moorland crosses was given a measure of official blessing when one of them, Ralph Cross at the head of Rosedale, and more or less central to the moors, was used as the emblem of the North York Moors National Park Authority. By omitting the path between Margery Bradley and Fat Betty, keeping instead to the road for a while longer, Ralph Cross will be encountered a short distance beyond the Rosedale Abbey turning, a deviation that will cause no hardship, and which will be found more acceptable underfoot. Most of the crosses are now without the cross-piece, being little more than a base or simple pillar. Used originally to guide travellers across the moors, they are found at strategic points (that is, medievally strategic), and serve these days to indicate the line of ancient tracks and cross-moor routes. Anyone interested in studying these crosses will find Stanhope White’s book Standing Stones and Earthworks of the North York Moors (1987) of particular interest.

From Fat Betty continue along the road for a short distance until a line of boundary stones going left marks the line of a possible shortcut, saving all of 100m. This shortcut, if taken, brings the route back to the road for a minute or so, before another narrow but clear path darts off to the left to reach a singletrack road heading north across Danby High Moor. This time the saving is about 300m. The shortcuts from the Margery Bradley stone offer a minimal time saving, and you may

prefer to stay with the road, which has the advantage of visiting Ralph Cross, and is safer in poor visibility.

Follow the road, left, up a slight rise, until a broad track branches right, towards an old shooting hut, Trough House. A fine traverse of moorland now ensues, the path soon meeting Trough Gill Beck, and then circling the head of Great Fryup Dale across a landscape dominated by heather, bracken and bilberry, and passing an area where coal was once mined. This enjoyable interlude across Glaisdale High Moor declines as the way meets another of the unenclosed roads crisscrossing this part of the moors, this one keeping to the high ground between Great Fryup Dale and Glaisdale. Turn left along the road, heading north, and after about 1.5km (1 mile) go right on a broad track just before the road reaches the conspicuous trig point. The track that follows, along Glaisdale Rigg, is an ancient highway, as many standing stones with directions on them testify, and leads easily and most pleasantly down to the village, with the abundant heather (not the last we will see) gradually giving way to grass as height is lost. Finally reaching the village at the green, the onward route here turns right, staying with the meandering road through this strung-out village to the railway station, near Beggar’s Bridge. With only short stretches of heather moorland to come, the time spent in the wilderness of the North York Moors can here be said to be at an end. GLAISDALE Glaisdale is a sprawling village built on a series of hillsides that in the mid-19th century possessed a prosperous iron industry, which helped to establish nearby Middlesbrough as a steel-producing town of considerable importance. Arthur Mee described the nearby valley as, ‘a dale shut off from the world by the moors’, while an earlier guide proclaimed, ‘There is no air more vigorating, the spot has many natural charms. It is among meandering streams and wooded vales, and around for miles are the beautiful moors.’ Not surprisingly, such an isolated community, one that even today is awkward to get to, is a source of folklore and legend. Prevalent in that folklore are many tales of hobs and goblins, and one such used to inhabit Hart Hall Farm on the edge of the village. Usually hobs are depicted as solitary, dwarf-like creatures, often shaggy-haired and ugly (a description that so far describes the author to a T). Hobs, however, often work naked, and dislike clothes to the extent that a gift of clothing would be regarded as an insult, something that would annoy them intensely, causing them to become mischievous, vindictive or dangerous. Adept at hiding themselves from prying eyes, they work extremely hard and quickly, seeking no reward beyond an occasional word of thanks. The hob at Hart Hall Farm was apparently a kindly fellow, and much loved by the inhabitants there. Once, when a hay-wagon wheel became jammed between two stones, with bad weather threatening, it became vital that the hay be brought in from the fields without delay. But all efforts to release the wheel failed, and the tired farm hands went to bed that night facing a harder than usual day’s work in the morning. But during the night the hob got to work, using his great strength to release the wheel, and drawing the fully laden wagon into the farmyard. When dawn came, the farm hands found the hay not only down from the fields and stacked, but the wagon prepared for the next day. This sort of tale typically reflects the beliefs that were prevalent in these isolated communities. Always, it seems, the hobs were there when needed, helping with every chore around the farm, and always in secret. No one ever saw the hobs at work or heard them, and it would take a brave person to dismiss these accounts out of hand. Whatever our modern interpretation or opinions might be, they formed a real, and no doubt psychologically supportive, element in the lives of people destined to spend their lives in hard, rural toil.

The route through Glaisdale could not be simpler – follow the road to the station. A passageway just before the terrace where the post office is found leads to a quieter back road through the village, as does a narrow road opposite the Mitre Hotel. All come together again near the railway station.

Glaisdale to Grosmont Distance Height Gain

5.7km (3½ miles) 25m (80 feet)

Strong walkers will find the last section, to Robin Hood’s Bay, well within their grasp. It is, nevertheless, long, and comes hard on the heels of a long day before. Careful planning of these final days is therefore of key importance, and if some advantage can be gained from being ferried about by helpful bed-andbreakfast proprietors, then make use of them. It would be a shame to arrive at the spectacular end too jaded to appreciate it.

At Glaisdale railway station the road bends right to pass beneath the railway bridge. Immediately before the bridge, a path goes right (signposted) over a footbridge spanning Glaisdale Beck to enter East Arnecliff Wood. Before taking this route, however, a short diversion under the railway bridge is needed to visit Beggar’s Bridge. BEGGAR’S BRIDGE Beggar’s Bridge, it is claimed, is the handiwork of one Tom Ferris, a local man of modest means who fell in love with Agnes Richardson, the daughter of a wealthy farmer from Egton. The River Esk at this spot is always difficult to cross, the more so when in spate, but to see Agnes, Tom had to negotiate its watery ways. Agnes’ father, however, seeing little in Tom’s prospects, did his best to end the relationship, inevitably forcing the couple to meet in secret. With so much opposition, it became clear that if he intended to have his bride, Tom had to make his fortune. Fortunately, he liked travelling, and left Glaisdale to join a ship at Whitby. Before long he found himself fighting the Spanish Armada, after which he (perhaps unavoidably) turned to looting Spanish galleons. Eventually he returned, and rose to become Mayor of Hull and Warden of its Trinity House. With his future assured, Tom built his famous bridge in 1619, and married Agnes. Obviously serving a packhorse trade route across the moors, the bridge is a remarkable and pleasing structure, its sides leaning outwards to accommodate bulging side packs, or panniers. Soon the walk encounters a paved pannier-way as it enters East Arnecliffe Wood. Retreat beneath the railway bridge to cross Glaisdale Beck, where the path climbs steeply for a while, leading on to an extended paved way, one of the centuries-old pannier-ways. Amid the quiet, green shelter of this natural woodland, the path seems longer than it is, concluding finally as it emerges on to a quiet road. Here turn left, down the hill to Egton Bridge. EGTON BRIDGE Egton Bridge is one of Yorkshire’s most beautiful villages, occupying a superb site on the River Esk, and flanked by great stands of trees and verdant loveliness. Its name comes from ‘Egetune’, meaning ‘town of oaks’, and with its neighbour, Egton, on the hillside a short distance away, was given by William the Conqueror to his blacksmith in 1070. The village is renowned for its adherence to the Roman Catholic faith, so strong that it caused it to become known as ‘the village missed by the Reformation’, and was the birthplace in 1596 of Nicholas Postgate.

Postgate, later called ‘Blessed Nicholas Postgate, Martyr of the Moors’, at the age of 25 went to be trained as a priest in France, something that was illegal in England. After his ordainment he was sent to England as a missionary, and spent the early part of his priesthood as chaplain to a number of wealthy families, his true role being concealed by his work as a gardener. Understandably, he always travelled in disguise and in secret to say mass, give communion and visit the sick. His love of gardening prompted him to plant flowers on his travels, and he is credited with bringing the wild daffodil to the moors, calling it the Lenten lily. Yet, in spite of the many efforts to keep his work concealed, he was finally betrayed at Whitby by an exciseman called John Reeves, who set a trap for Postgate and had him arrested while conducting a baptism at Red Barns Farm, near Ugglebarnby. Reeves received the princely sum of £20 for his work, and Postgate was charged with high treason, for which he was hung, drawn and quartered on 7 August 1679, at the age of 82. Sadly, Postgate’s last resting place is unknown, though relics of his work, and of the Postgate Society founded in his memory, can be seen at St Hedda’s Catholic Church in Egton Bridge. The true significance of Nicholas Postgate’s dedication to his faith can be weighed by the fact that during the first-ever visit to England by a reigning pope, in 1982, the late Pope John Paul II stood on Postgate’s place of execution (now part of the Racecourse at York) and prayed a litany of northern saints, including Nicholas Postgate among them. As a footnote, and having much in common with a similar story of betrayal found in the Bible, John Reeves, horrified by the outcome of his treachery, committed suicide by drowning himself in a deep pool at Littlebeck, ever since known as Devil’s Dump.

On reaching Egton Bridge, at a T-junction near the Horseshoe Inn, keep ahead to cross the road bridge over the Esk. Soon, turn right to a junction between the church and Egton Bridge (i.e. the bridge), leaving the village by an enclosed way (signposted ‘Egton Estates – private road’). Formerly this way was a toll road, and finally meets the valley road near a loop in the Esk, not far from Priory Farm. Turn right over a bridge and follow the road into Grosmont. GROSMONT In their all-conquering manner, the Romans built a road through Grosmont (pronounced ‘grow-mont’), and a fort to protect it, taking advantage of its strategic position at the confluence of two rivers, the Esk and the Murk Esk. There is scant evidence of Grosmont’s ancient history, though around 1200 Johanna Fossard, supported by the French priory of Grandimont, founded a priory here. No trace remains today, but it is known to have occupied the site of present-day Priory Farm. More recently, the building of one of the railway lines, in 1836, exposed a rich seam of ironstone, of the highest quality, which ultimately yielded over 100,000 tons of ore each year before the mining ended in 1871. The ore was transported by rail to the coast at Whitby, for shipping to the Tyne, and the presence of railways still features largely in the every-day life of touristy Grosmont. Destined to pass into oblivion, the Whitby–Pickering line, opened in 1836 as a horse-drawn tramway intended to help the development of the timber, sandstone and limestone industries found inland, was closed in 1965. However, in 1967 the North Yorkshire Moors Preservation Society was formed, and managed to purchase the part of the line from Grosmont to Eller Beck. More bureaucratic wranglings ensued until, finally, on 1 May 1973, the North York Moors Railway was formally opened by the Duchess of Kent. It is now a fascinating and absorbing diversion, enjoying great popularity.

Grosmont to Robin Hood’s Bay Distance Height Gain

23km (14½ miles) 475m (1560 feet)

So, wherever you spent last night, this really is the final leg of the journey. It is one to be savoured and enjoyed, to be embarked upon with both a sense of happiness and of sadness – happiness at having achieved our personal goal, overcome such adversity as we might have encountered, and at having triumphed, and sadness that such a good thing is coming to an end. There will have been bad days, almost certainly, when spirits were low, or feet and shoulders ached, or the pub or café closed two minutes before you reached it, but the greater part will be of good memories, unsurpassed scenery, historic moments (in more than one sense, no doubt), good companionship (perhaps), and walking of the highest order (most certainly). Anyone who found nothing of pleasure in the crossing is either dead, or only a step away.

Leave Grosmont by climbing east (ignoring two roads going left to Sleights), and continuing up Fair Head Lane, a tiring pull at the best of times, but eased a little by fine retrospective views over the Esk valley. More significantly, Whitby Abbey can be seen in the distance on its clifftop site, as the final chapter of the walk draws to a close. When the lane reaches the open moor (now Access Land), a line of standing stones known as the Low Bride Stones may be spotted to the south, and further on another set, the High Bride Stones, can be seen off to the right. The Low Bride Stones are something of a disappointment, lying haphazardly in a boggy depression, while the High Bride Stones make more of an effort to remain upright in the face of the elements.

There are now two possible routes: A Original route From the point where a path leads south to High Bride Stones, cross the road to a small pull-in, and locate a narrow trod through heather that leads towards the tumulus of Flat Howe on the high ground of Sleights Moor. This is not always clear, but once Flat Howe comes into view it is easier to follow. From Flat Howe a similar narrow path descends to meet the A169 at the top

of Blue Bank (aim for a conspicuous large blue road sign), gaining access to the roadside at a stile beside a gate. Cross the road with great care, and go right, up the road, for 15m, and then left to a gate giving onto a stony track. (The original line is 50m to the right of the gate, but as this is now all Access Land, you can safely use the nearest gate.) Continue down the track to meet the narrow and twisting metalled road leading to the hamlet of Littlebeck. B Revised route Ignore Flat Howe and continue along the minor road for 700m beyond High Bride Stones, to a signpost opposite a large parking area on the right. At the signpost, leave the road for a clear path through heather that shortly meets the A169. Turn left along the verge beside the A-road, crossing it when you can safely do so. After 500m, come to a signpost on the right pointing to a gate that gives onto a bridleway heading left through heather to meet a stony track. Turn right onto the stony track, now having joined the original route. Press on down to the hamlet and start ascending the road leading away from it. At a second bend go right, through a kissing-gate (signposted ‘C-to-C’ and ‘Falling Foss’). Enter the woodland to begin a delightful but brief interlude in the company of Little Beck. A good path leads on, negotiates a tributary stream, and leads to the unexpected sight of a spoil heap. Such an apparition at this stage in the walk arouses only a casual interest, and it is no more than it seems to be. Pass it to reach a muddy path leading to a huge boulder on the left, known as the Hermitage. THE HERMITAGE The Hermitage is carved from one piece of rock, and could provide shelter for a sizeable group of visitors. It was constructed by George Chubb in 1790, and bears his initials. Quite why it was built appears to be unrecorded – it may simply have been to serve the purposes of a local eccentric, a form of 18th-century escapism that sees its modern counterpart in the blank-faced iPod-clutching brigades, who wander about our streets or sit immutably insular on trains and buses.

From the Hermitage continue along the higher of two paths that follow, and when this shortly forks, take the right branch to Falling Foss, a delightful waterfall in a wooded setting – at its best after prolonged rain. Nearby, the ruins of Midge Hall are reached by a footbridge. A stone block set in a gate pillar here bears the inscription ‘Sneaton Lordship’.

Continue alongside the stream, with a larger, farm-access bridge appearing on the left. Cross the access track and keep ahead to reach the stream at a ford. If the stream is in flood, or the prospect of a dunking at this late stage in the journey proves a deterrent to heroics, backtrack to the farm bridge and locate a path on the opposite bank that will bring you to the same spot. The path continues ahead to meet a broader forest trail, at which go right, to

cross a stream by a footbridge, continuing ahead on an improving path, passing a pond with bulrushes on the left, and keeping onwards to reach the vicinity of May Beck car park. On reaching May Beck bridge, go immediately left on the road, doubling back and following the road to, and beyond, a bend near New May Beck Farm. As the road straightens, leave it, right, on a broad public footpath (signposted), which soon deteriorates to a narrow path across Sneaton Low Moor. Arrival at the B1416, Ruswarp road, is at a low stile opposite a narrow plantation and Raikes Lane.

Falling Foss, Littleback

Turn right along the B1416 for about 700m to a stile on the left (signposted ‘C-to-C’). Now follow a narrow trod through low heather scrub across what is to be the final stretch of moorland. The path, marked by an occasional guidepost, is frequently wet, and passes through a couple of boggy depressions. This short stretch rejoices in the name of Graystone Hills, an appellation heavy with descriptive licence. With a final boggy flourish the path arrives at a gate,

close by a raised tumulus on the right. Bear left to a stile. Keep forward in the ensuing pasture before bearing left to arrive at a stile in a fence beyond which lies a broad track between hedges, leading to a surfaced lane and later bearing right into Low Hawsker. Bear right into Back Lane, and shortly cross the A171 to reach High Hawsker. HAWSKER Hawsker is a two-part village, High and Low, astride the A171 Scarborough–Whitby road, with the greater portion located across the road. Here roadside benches invite a moment’s respite, while a telephone is handy for walkers still needing to finalise accommodation arrangements. At Hawsker is one of Yorkshire’s many legendary links with Robin Hood, and since his bay is close by, it justifies retelling. The story is that both Robin and Little John, on a visit to Whitby, were accommodated at the abbey, where they were invited to demonstrate their archery skills. From the top of an abbey tower they each fired an arrow to the southeast, and each landed on Whitby Laithes, a stretch of ground, now a farm, near Hawsker. So impressed was the abbot with these shots that he ordered standing stones to be fixed where the arrows had landed, and to this day those places, Robin Hood Field and Little John Field, are still shown on maps (GR9109). That the arrows would have had to carry a distance of just over 2km (1¼ miles) for this to be an accurate account is the sort of puerile currency that sceptics deal in to spoil a good yarn.

High Hawsker, village detail

Leave the village up the road (signposted ‘Robin Hood’s Bay’) to the right, noting a small well on the right bearing the initials ‘T C’ and the date 1790. Ascend the road to a right-hand bend, and here leave it, left, for a metalled road leading to, and past, a caravan site (‘Sea View’). Another caravan site (‘Northcliffe’) is encountered a short way further on. Just past the reception and shop the road ends. Go ahead, then left, down through ranks of static caravans towards the North Sea. At the bottom end of the caravan park a track runs ahead to a small filtration plant protected by fencing. To the left of this a path runs down a field alongside Oakham Beck to rejoin the Cleveland Way and meet the coastal path directly

above Maw Wyke Hole, a truly breathtaking moment.

A pause here to savour the knowledge of what you have achieved is most appropriate. Only a final scamper to Robin Hood’s Bay remains, and we’ll do that on all fours, if need be!

Now go right, following the coastal path, a popular, well-used and well-worn route that requires little description. Accompanying it most of the way is either a fence or a wall, sometimes both, usually on the seaward side, each field boundary crossed by stiles, as the route curves round North Cheek (Ness Point). Shortly after passing a coastguard lookout station, the broad sweep of Robin Hood’s Bay finally comes into view, a tremendous, uplifting moment as you gaze across the bay to South Cheek (Old Peak) and Ravenscar, where the Lyke Wake Walk, our sometime companion, meets its end. Eventually, at a gate go left along a path enclosed by hawthorns to emerge on a grass track in front of a row of houses. This leads on to Mount Pleasant North, at the end of which turn left on the main road down into Robin Hood’s Bay, ending in a final and steep descent, through the charming cottages and shops of the old part of the village, more correctly known as Baytown, to reach the seashore. ROBIN HOOD’S BAY Legend has it that Robin Hood found a quiet bay on the edge of the northern moors and decided on this as an ideal retreat from danger. Here, under the name of Simon Wise, he returned time and time again, keeping a small fleet of fishing boats, which he used to put to sea whenever danger threatened.

The North Sea, Robin Hood’s Bay The village that bears his name was once a fishing community, with not a little emphasis on smuggling, though it has now caught the imagination of tourists, and is a popular holiday and weekend resort. Its houses and shops perch precariously at or above the water’s edge, in imminent danger of collapse or flooding, many of its red-roofed houses so small and narrow that they have a ‘coffin window’ above the door designed to enable coffins to be removed. At high tide the sea runs into the village street, and comes in alarmingly quickly. At low tide the Scars, a layer of harder rock underlying the soft boulder clay, run far out to sea, and are full of fascinating rock pools over which to gaze before returning to the prosaic ways of everyday life.

That’s it – well done, you’ve finished. You can stop now… unless, of course, you dipped your boot in the sea at St Bees, or carried that pebble all the way across, in which case the necessary ceremonies must be observed. Good organisation will see to it that champagne awaits the end of the journey. When I completed the first edition of this book, my celebration with friends, far out into the bay, caused a few wry smiles and looks of puzzlement – they had carried a bottle of champagne and fluted glasses for miles. When I completed the third edition, it was all I could do to catch up with my dog, who was heading for the sea to cool her feet. But few of the visitors you will meet at Robin Hood’s Bay will have much understanding of your achievement – success, in the final analysis, is a very personal thing. Few people will know of your triumph, and most of those will think you are mad. But no one can take from you the knowledge that you walked across England, Coast to Coast!

THE COAST TO COAST WALK EAST TO WEST

Heading west from the Wainstones (Danby Wiske to Ingleby Cross)

In the following east-to-west route description, additional information on sites and scenes of particular interest, notes of historical, archaeological, sociological and other significance, have been omitted. At the point in the text where they would occur, a cross-reference is made to the corresponding section in the west-to-east description, either as a page number, e.g. (page 21), or with a word or two of explanation, e.g. (Mount Grace Priory, page 144). The whole of the route description in this direction, while rather fuller than in earlier editions of this book, is still less detailed overall, and walkers going against the flow will need to be reasonably good navigators.

5 THE NORTH YORK MOORS Robin Hood’s Bay to Grosmont Distance Height Gain

23km (14½ miles) 505m (1655 feet)

The first part of the walk in this direction seems to involve rather more uphill work than the start from St Bees, but that soon eases as the exquisite scenery of the coastal path flings itself at your feet. To begin and end a walk in this coastal fashion is magnificent, but that’s what coast to coast walks tend to do! Even so, the sight of the sea is something that arouses passions in an island nation. At one end it fires the imagination and stirs the soul, at the other it serves as a compelling magnet, and offers no false rewards. St Bees Head is superb, so let’s get going. For map, see pages 168–70

Climb away from the seashore at Robin Hood’s Bay (page 175), ascending steeply through the old part of the village (correctly known as Baytown) to reach the main road. Here, continue ahead and then turn right into Mount Pleasant North (signposted for the Cleveland Way, which initially is encountered only briefly, but then rejoined later and followed almost all the way to Ingleby Cross). At another signpost, soon encountered, go forward through a gate to reach a path enclosed by hawthorns that finally ends at a kissing-gate giving onto clifftop pastures. Now simply follow the coastal path, the Cleveland Way, right, along the edge of numerous pastures, as far as Maw Wyke Hole, where the Coast to Coast Walk and the Cleveland Way temporarily part company. Here turn left for Hawsker, alongside Oakham Beck, to reach and pass directly up through a caravan site. At the top end of the caravan site, go right past reception and a shop, and then follow the road out, through its various twists and turns, to reach a bend in the B1447, not far from the village of Hawsker (page 173). On descending into the village go left at the first junction, and then immediately right (for Sneatonthorpe) to cross the A171 into Back Lane. Now simply follow this lane for just under 2km (1 mile) until it makes a sharp right-hand bend as it turns to Sneatonthorpe, just after Low Rigg Farm. Here, leave the lane by branching left onto an old lane that shortly runs on between hedges to a stile, where it enters Access Land, beyond which it bears right across a pasture to another stile giving onto the moorland expanse of Graystone Hills. Press on ahead, with the way through the heather and a few boggy patches waymarked from time to time. Eventually, the path reaches the B1416 at a stile. Go right along the road for about 700m to a step-stile on the left,

opposite a narrow plantation and Raikes Lane. Cross the stile and head slightly left on a narrow path through heather across Sneaton Low Moor, finally to reach a minor access road serving New May Beck Farm. Turn left along the access and gradually descend to a bridge near May Beck car park. Just before the bridge, go right, along a forest trail, soon passing, on the right, a pond with bulrushes, and shortly reaching a footbridge. Cross the bridge and gain a broader trail, quickly leaving it, left, on a grassy path leading to a ford, and keep ahead to the ruins of Midge Hall. At Midge Hall, cross a nearby footbridge and ascend a short distance for a delightful view of Falling Foss. Continue climbing easily to reach a higher path going left to a shelter carved from rock, the Hermitage (page 170). From the Hermitage, press on, slightly left and down, to follow a woodland path and finally emerge onto a surfaced lane at the edge of Littlebeck (page 170). Take the road, left, out of Littlebeck, and when, after a steepish pull, it bends sharply to the right for Sleights, leave it by continuing forward along an enclosed stony track to reach open moorland, across which you climb easily to the A169 at the top of Blue Bank. On reaching the A169, you have two possible onward routes. A Cross the road with care to a signpost, step-stile and gate more or less opposite. Over the stile, a clear path loops across the moor; ignore this. Instead, bear left on a narrow trod through low heather, roughly heading for a solitary tree, but gradually climbing onto Sleights Moor to reach the pronounced tumulus of Flat Howe. From this, continue in a south-westerly direction, following another narrow path through heather to reach a minor road opposite High Bride Stones. Turn right and follow the road into Fair Head Lane and down to Grosmont. B Turn left and walk beside the A169 for 500m, crossing the road when you can safely do so. Leave the road at a step-stile on the right, giving onto a clear track across heather moorland. This reaches the minor road to Grosmont at a signpost opposite a large parking area. Turn right and follow the road into Fair Head Lane and down to Grosmont, on the way passing High Bride Stones and later Low Bride Stones.

Grosmont to Glaisdale Distance Height Gain

5.7km (3½ miles) 70m (230 feet)

For map, see pages 164–5

Keep ahead on the road through Grosmont and cross the railway line (part of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway (page 166), soon bearing right, under a railway line to leave the village by a pleasant lane to a bend in the nearby River Esk, not far from Priory Farm. Just after the road crosses the first part of the river bend, go right towards Priory Farm, but before reaching the farm head left along a former toll road leading to Egton Bridge (page 164; Nicholas Postgate, page 165). At Egton Bridge, go left to cross the river and follow the road to a junction with a minor road. Here, branch right (ahead) along the minor road for a little over 1km (0.6 miles) until a path on the right gives access to East Arnecliff Woods, through which passage is eased by the use of an ancient, paved pannier-way that eventually swings round and down to Glaisdale Beck on the edge of the village. Cross the beck by a footbridge, and then turn left to descend to the station. Just after crossing the footbridge, and beyond the railway viaduct on the right, stands Beggar’s Bridge (page 163; Tom Ferris, page 163), which is well worth a diversion.

Glaisdale to Clay Bank Top Distance Height Gain

27km (17 miles) 490m (1605 feet)

For map, see pages 156–60

Follow the twisting road upwards through strung-out Glaisdale (page 161; Hobs, page 161) until, at the top of the village, at a green, a road goes left towards Glaisdale Hall Farm. The onward route now follows the line of an ancient highway, climbing at first by a grassy path and then into low heather across Glaisdale Rigg, high above the valley of Glaisdale to the south. Gradually the trail broadens, and eventually meets a surfaced moorland road (from Lealholm to Rosedale Abbey) high on a narrow neck of land sandwiched between Glaisdale and Great Fryup Dale. Go left along the road for about 1.5km (1 mile), leaving it by a rough track heading right (southwest), and swinging around the head of Great Fryup Dale to an old shooting hut, Trough House, shortly after which another unenclosed moorland road is encountered. Note Between this point and the Lion Inn at the top of Blakey Ridge, the simplest way is to follow the road. That’s not so traumatic an experience as you might expect, since they all have good verges and (other than at weekends) little traffic. It is possible to shortcut a few obvious corners by delving into bog and heather in the hope of saving a little time, but there is little to recommend this. From the road just after Trough House, go left to a junction, and there turn right (this corner can be cut by a path through heather). Follow the road to

another junction, passing a low moorland cross on the right (Fat Betty).

This

stretch of road walking is avoidable by following a line of old boundary stones, saving around 100m.

Continue to a further junction near a car park, and not far from another moorland cross, Ralph Cross (page 158; Moorland Crosses, page 158), which has been adopted as the symbol of the North York Moors National Park. At the junction turn left and walk on as far as the Lion Inn, passing (on the right) a large and ungainly standing stone known as Margery Bradley. (The stretch between Fat Betty and Margery Bradley can be shortcut, saving a few minutes, but missing Ralph Cross.) As the Lion Inn is approached, a path rises right to an ancient raised mound, Blakey Howe. In more recent times it was used for cockfighting. Everyone should stop at the Lion Inn (hopefully it will be open). There is a long haul ahead, without sustenance of any kind, and a break here, even if only for a cup of tea, would be a good idea.

At Blakey Howe, head right, following a wall and descending slightly to meet the trackbed of the Rosedale Ironstone Railway (page 155). At the trackbed go right and follow this easy route for almost 8km (5 miles) around the hear of Farndale until, at a gate, the Cleveland Way appears from the right, to guide you on. Continue ahead, and a few hundred metres after a second gate, at a place known as Bloworth Crossing, leave the trackbed by descending left and then climbing from a boggy depression to begin the as cent of Urra Moor (page 154).

Descending to Clay Bank Top

The summit of Urra Moor is Round Hill, the highest point of the North York Moors, and has an ancient guidepost, the Hand Stone (page 155) nearby. Beyond the high point, the track eases onwards, gradually descending Carr Ridge, and then dropping suddenly through a narrow cleft into the rock lip before plunging down to Clay Bank Top. Sometimes, just right (north) of Clay Bank Top a mobile snack bar turns up. Don’t count on it, but it could provide a little extra sustenance.

Clay Bank Top to Ingleby Cross Distance Height Gain

18.4km (11½ miles) 610m (2000 feet)

For map, see pages 142–4

Clay Bank Top is more correctly known as ‘Hagg’s Gate’, and directly opposite the point at which the path from Carr Ridge meets the B1257 Stokesley– Helmsley road, climb a flight of steps to gain a path rising beside a wall to a step-stile on the left, with a plantation on the right. Note A speedy and less demanding alternative route keeps right at this point, along the edge of the plantation, bypassing Hasty Bank and the

Wainstones. It later cuts across the northern slopes of Cringle Moor, following a route taken by the jet and alum miners who worked this area, to rejoin the main line of the walk just before reaching Lord Stones Café. The main line crosses the step-stile to tackle the steep pull to Hasty Bank. The entire route from Clay Bank onwards was paved during the 1990s, and makes for speedy progress and, more to the point, safer progress in poor visibility. Only the passage through the Wainstones isn’t paved, and this is obvious enough. Once the ascent is complete, the path runs along the escarpment to reach the top of the Wainstones, a tumble of boulders and rock walls through which a number of paths thread a way. Below the Wainstones, take the paved path bearing left, and this guides you down through lateral walls into Garfit Gap, and up to a gate. More ascent leads on to Cold Moor, followed by an easy descent to a gate. Follow the on-going wall round to another gate at a wall corner. (The alternative low-level route arrives here from the right, and the two routes rejoin briefly.) Through the gate, go left to a signpost. (Here, the low-level route branches right.) Go left and start climbing through mining spoil (Jet, page 149; Alum, page 149) to reach a splendid escarpment path around the edge of Cringle Moor. The highest point of the moor, Drake Howe, lies off to the left, marked by a pile of stones.

The Wainstones

Eventually, the path starts to descend slightly as it heads for a view indicator and stone seat at Cringle End. A paved path now descends to a gate, beyond which a broad green path (joined eventually by the low-level route) leads onward. When the fence on the left ends, either keep forward to continue along the route, or bear left to pass a small copse and so reach the Lord Stones Café (page 151, toilets, refreshments and information).

Beyond the café lies a minor surfaced road, gained by a stile. Cross the road and continue forward on a narrow path through bracken that leads to a shale track leading to debris from former alum quarries. Cross the track, and pass through a gate to start ascending on a cobbled path, rising initially through quarry spoil, now almost completely covered by regeneration. The path soon reaches the summit of Carlton Moor, marked by a trig pillar and a boundary post. An excellent, flagged path now leads on from the summit, a delightful airy traverse that soon passes a long, barren strip of ground used as a landing strip for gliders. The path is sandwiched between the airstrip and the northern edge of Carlton Moor, and then romps along in undulating fashion to Live Moor, before finally descending from the western edge of the Cleveland Hills to head for the next chapter in the walk, the Vale of Mowbray.

Carlton Moor

Once the top of Live Moor is crossed, the path continues gently downwards with stunning views ahead of Scarth Wood Moor, the waiting vale and the distant frieze of Swaledale fells. The on-going path leads past Round Hill and down to a gate giving directly into a plantation. A steep flight of cobbled steps follows, and this can be slippery when wet. At the bottom, pass through another gate, and follow the path left along the plantation boundary to another gate giving onto an enclosed path that emerges at Huthwaite Green, at the head of Scugdale. On reaching Huthwaite Green, go ahead down the lane opposite the telephone box, soon passing Hollin Hill Farm. Beyond, you cross Scugdale Beck, and soon afterwards a clear track (signposted) branches right for the lane to a footbridge (and ford) over Piper Beck. From a gate, head slightly right, following a green track (rather than the

waymarked bridleway) up-field to enter Clain Wood at a stile. Turn right to engage a lovely path through the wood, which is seasonally bright with bluebells and wood sorrel, both indicating that this is an ancient woodland. The path follows the lower perimeter of the woodland, and when it forks, branch right and keep going until you reach an access trail near a gate. Turn left, and almost immediately branch right to begin a steady pull to the upper levels of Clain Wood. At the top of the ascent, a small ‘balcony’ on the right, with a seat, offers a moment’s relaxation and a fine view over the village of Swainby below. Back on track, turn right at a nearby junction (signpost and ‘LWW’ marker stone), and follow a level track until it forks. Here, at a signpost, branch right through the last of the woodland to emerge at the roadside just below Scarth Nick.

Marker for Lyke Wake Walk, Faceby Bank

Turn left through a gate beside a cattle-grid, and up the road, and in a few paces take a signposted path on the right, climbing by a flight of cobbled steps to join a broad track at another low stone marker for the Lyke Wake Walk. Here, bear right onto a broad track that sweeps across the lovely heathery expanse of Scarth Wood Moor (page 146). The track ends at a gate at the edge of woodland. Go through the gate, and the next one a few strides on, giving into the woodland. Now follow a path sandwiched between a wall on the left and a wooded escarpment on the right, soon reaching the summit of Beacon Hill, which marks the original starting point of the Lyke Wake Walk (page 145). Soon, the untidy ironmongery of Beacon Hill’s radio station comes into view, with just enough room to let the path squeeze by before it starts descending through the delights of South Wood. At the southern edge of the wood, the path emerges close by a gate. Walkers

bound for Osmotherley (page 143), should go left, through the gate.

The route now swings sharply to the right, continuing on a broad forest trail, leaving behind the Cleveland Way, which has been our companion for quite some time. The forest trail continues pleasantly and uneventfully, soon branching left at a junction and later passing the entrance to Park House. The route undulates a little, and the woodland here seems well populated with pheasant at certain times of the year. Beyond Park House a distinct branch goes left, leaving the forest to follow a fenced track to a gate giving onto a quiet back road at the rear of Arncliffe Hall (page 142) and the parish church (page 142). Follow the road, right, curving past the hall and church, to run to meet the A172. Cross the road and continue ahead to reach Ingleby Cross.

4 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY The Vale of Mowbray is a lovely transitional phase, a largely pastoral pause in the scheme of things that allows time to reflect on the delights of the North York Moors just passed, and then to channel thoughts forward to what lies ahead. Historically, it is a fascinating stretch, with Anglo-Saxon antecedents, and a huge chunk of Norman presence built into its fabric. The crossing from Ingleby to Richmond ought to be given at least two days. Most of the way follows field margins, where wild flowers grow in profusion in spring and early summer. It is a truly delightful crossing, one that carries every bit as much appeal as the moors, the Dales and the Lake District. In many ways it is like the limestone country that lies between Kirkby Stephen and Shap, and these two ‘uncomplicated’ passages are a splendid counterbalance to the three other sections. So, make the most of the Vale of Mowbray – enjoy it at leisure, and don’t be in a hurry to gobble it up all at one go.

Ingleby Cross to Danby Wiske Distance Height Gain

14km (8¾ miles) 15m (50 feet)

For map, see pages 134–6

Continue up the lane, away from Ingleby Cross, and at the top, at Ingleby Arncliffe (page 138), go left, and then immediately right opposite a water tower, to follow a lane out for a hazardous encounter with the A19. Cross this busy, high-speed dual carriageway with care, and head off down a rough lane opposite. At Crinkle Carr Farm, follow the track as it swings left to Longlands Farm, and then follows a series of right and left turns to arrive at the ruins of Brecken Hill farm, now very much overgrown, but providing a feast of plums and elderberries at the right time of year.

Ingleby Cross

Keep to the left of Brecken Hill and walk around the ruins, then bear left across an arable field to find a footbridge spanning the River Wiske (page 136). Head up the ensuing field, aiming for a stile and gate to the right of a large open barn. From the stile go forward through a metal gate to follow the farm access out to a lane. Turn left briefly, and then right onto a road for Welbury and Northallerton. After about 200m, leave the road at a bend by branching left onto a gravel track (Low Moor Lane) that leads past Deepdale farm and on towards Harsley Grove farm. As Harsley Grove is approached, Low Moor Lane becomes surfaced and bears left, away from the farm, with a large fenced pasture on the right. When the fencing ends after about 800m (signpost), leave it by turning right and walking along a field boundary round two sides, to locate a half-concealed dip on the right leading to a narrow footbridge between stiles. Over the footbridge, cross the ensuing field to a concrete stile giving pedestrian access to a crossing of a railway line. Safely across the line, go obliquely left to a hedgerow and fence leading to a stile near Wray House Farm. Cross a brief enclosure, and another stile, and then bear left along an access track that leads out to Long Lane, a minor Roman road.

Head up Long Lane for about 200m, and then turn left towards Northfield House Farm. Keep the farm buildings on the right, passing round them on an access track, soon to reach a stile giving into a meadow. A green path heads across the meadow, passing Northfield Farm and crossing an intermediate fence and stile. Keep on across a second meadow, and then along a field margin to the remains of Brompton Moor Farm. Cross a stile, then head halfleft to a footbridge spanning a stream, and then go ahead for a short distance to a lateral field boundary (stile). The path then follows the field boundary to the right, eventually arriving at a stile giving access to a small paddock adjoining Moor House Farm. Head diagonally left across the paddock to a gate, and then leave the farm buildings behind by taking the farm access track out to a minor road, Deighton Lane. Turn left onto Deighton Lane, but after only a short distance, leave it by branching right onto a green lane flanked by hedgerows and passing White House Farm. Gradually, the green lane narrows and becomes overgrown, but it leads eventually to a stile and an open meadow. A hedgerow on the left guides you to a gate beyond which a rough track leads out to meet the A167 almost opposite Oaktree Farm.

Field edge path approaching Danby Wiske

Head left, down the A167, and continue past Oaktree Hill Garage to leave the main road for a minor road on the right (Crowfoot Lane). Follow this to a Tjunction where it meets the road to Danby Wiske. Turn right, and now simply follow the lane to Danby.

Danby Wiske to Bolton-on-Swale Distance Height Gain

11km (6.9 miles) 55m (180 feet)

The linking of Danby Wiske with Bolton-on-Swale makes the most of some excellent field-edge paths that are infinitely superior to the alternative – a long and boring road bash. But, if time is of the essence, then the road route is given in Appendix A. For Map see pages 128–9

On reaching Danby Wiske, go left at the White Swan, down Mounstrall Lane for about 600m, finally leaving the road at a gate on the right (signposted) to follow a field-edge path. On the way, the route passes Danby Wiske’s beautiful Norman church (page 132), which is without dedication, and well worth a brief diversion. Walk up the field edge until you can bear left along a hedgerow towards woodland. Soon, you enter a long and quite delightful stretch of enclosed trackway, seasonally overgrown, but a lovely sheltered interlude. It ends at a gate giving into a gently sloping pasture. Walk down the right-hand edge of the pasture, and at the bottom continue into the next. Lower down, the route goes left with the field boundary to a step-stile beside a gate. Cross this, and walk up the left-hand edge of a large field, eventually reaching the access track serving High Brockholme Farm. Walk out along the access to meet a surfaced lane. Turn right, walking along the lane for about 400m, and leaving it opposite the entrance to another farm (Green Garth, but shown as Brockholme on the map). Now follow a field-edge path to a hedge gap, and through this walk around the end of a field to a stile giving onto a concrete slab bridge. Cross the next two fields, often cropped over, and eventually deal with a couple of stiles either side of a sleeper bridge just before Moor House Farm. Head for a stile just before a gate. Go through the gate and around the farm perimeter to reach another gate. Through this, go left to a track junction, and left again past Red House Farm, and walk out along a broad track to reach the B6271. Without touching upon the B road, turn immediately right onto a signposted path that follows a field edge, and maintains much the same direction across lovely countryside to walk up to the ruins of Stanhowe Cottage. Keep on past the cottage, always at the field edge (either right or left), and eventually you reach a field corner where an old gate gap gives onto an enclosed path that leads up to cottages at Ladybank House. Go past the cottages, and keep on to reach the B6271 once more.

Stanhowe Cottage

Now follow the B road, right, for a little over 1km (0.6 miles), on the way passing Kiplin Hall (page 129). Just before Ellerton Bridge, a signposted bridleway on the right takes you through a gate, a hedge gap, and up a field edge to reach houses and cottages at Ellerton Hill. Keep forward past these to reach a T-junction at a lane. Turn left. Walk down the lane until, just before a brick bridge, you can leave it by crossing a stile on the right. Follow the course of Bolton Beck on the left (all the way, in fact, to Bolton-on-Swale), initially round a field edge to an access track serving Layland’s Farm. Cross this, and keep forward alongside the beck to a dilapidated bridge. Cross the bridge and turn right, still following the beck and a field-edge path across fields and stiles, until eventually the path runs into a field corner at the edge of Bolton-on-Swale. Turn left towards the church (page 126; Henry Jenkins, page 126).

Bolton-on-Swale to Richmond Distance Height Gain

11.2km (7 miles) 100m (330 feet)

For map see pages 123–4

Opposite St Mary’s Church, take the side road leading up to the B6271, near the village pump, and head right along the road for a short distance to a broad track, Flat Lane, on the left. Follow this through its various twists and turns

until it almost emerges onto the B road once more. Just before reaching the road, turn left along a wide field-edge path, and shortly keep onward beside a fence through the site of former gravel works to a gate giving into the end of a long pasture. Go forward along the left-hand edge, almost immediately encountering the River Swale, the first close encounter with the river that is to be followed almost to its very source. Dealing with gates and stiles, now follow the course of the river all the way to Catterick Bridge (page 125), where a gated squeeze-stile gives onto the A6136 (the old A1). Go left across the bridge to a nearby road junction near the Bridge House Hotel (page 125). Cross the road with care here, and take the road branching right alongside Catterick Racecourse. Almost immediately leave it, by going right across the end of an overflow car park to locate a stepstile beneath a defunct railway bridge. Pass beneath this (stiles) and keep on to go under the A1. Once beyond the A1, climb left to reach Thornborough farm, and there bear right to pass the farm buildings to a gate. Now keep forward beside fences on a broad track. When, later, the track dips to the right, leave it and go left onto a path along the top of a slope above the Swale. Keep on to a step-stile in a corner, and over this follow the right-hand field margin to another stile giving onto the access track to St Giles Farm. Head towards the farm, but soon leave it at a stile on the right. The path strikes across a field on the site of St Giles Hospital (page 125), to another stile, and then along the top edge of Colburn Beck Wood, shortly going left at a stile and along a field boundary to meet a farm access. Turn right along the access and keep ahead towards the farm, but just before reaching it, take a path on the right along a field edge to pass around the farm and emerge at the edge of Colburn. Press on towards the village, passing a pub, crossing a bridge, and then going ahead onto a quiet driveway leading into woodland and alongside a stream. Follow the accompanying path as it rises from the woodland to cross a field, and then another. At a stile, cross the next field to a slight brow, beyond which the path continues through a seasonally overgrown path to the ruins of Hagg Farm. The path beyond Hagg Farm re-enters woodland, following a path that finally emerges into daylight at a stile, and not far from sewage works. Follow the boundary fence of the sewage works to meet its access road, and then press on to meet the main road (A6136) at a bend. Turn right along the road for about 700m, leaving it at a signposted road on the left, and continuing in front of a row of houses (Priory Villas) to pass between barns. In the field that follows, take a green path ascending slightly to the left until more woodland is entered, running out eventually on the edge of a playing field beneath the

ramparts of Richmond Castle (page 119). Follow the playing-field boundary ahead to reach the road into Richmond, and here turn right, cross Richmond Bridge (page 119), and then ascend ahead to the town centre via Bridge Street and New Street, finally to arrive at the Market Place.

3 INTO THE DALES Richmond to Reeth Distance Height Gain

16.5km (10.3 miles) 375m (1230 feet)

For map, see pages 113–115

Cross Market Place and go down King Street to a roundabout near the tourist information office. Turn left along Victoria Road until, near a corner shop, you can leave the town, and climb steadily along a back road (Westfields), which later runs on as a broad track, past High Leases and into Whitcliffe Wood (page 117). On leaving Whitcliffe Wood, the path passes beneath Whitcliffe Scar (Willance’s Leap, page 117) and continues towards East Applegarth Farm. A waymarked path keeps above the farm and runs on to the vicinity of High Applegarth, Low Applegarth and soon the last of the farms, West Applegarth, close by the edge of Applegarth Scar.

Parish church, Richmond

Take the broad access away from West Applegarth as far as a large cairn, and here descend left to cross Clapgate Beck by a footbridge. Cross the ensuing fields to rise gradually to a surfaced road leading left to the village of Marske (page 115). Descend through the village, cross a stream, and at a road junction follow the road ahead, past Marske Hall, and ignoring a side road to Skelton. A stiff pull ensues. Continue up the road to a stile on the left opposite a cottage. Through this, cross the next field diagonally right to reach a gate and stile, and then keep along the field-boundary wall to pass Hollins Farm (keep to the

right of the farm), and so gain its access road (Hutton’s Monument, page 115). Turn right along the access for a short distance to a gate on the left, and from it head across two fields to the cottage at Ellers. More green paths cross fields and lead to an access serving Nun Cote Nook Farm, which is followed, right, for a few strides until a path climbs left across yet more fields to reach the village of Marrick. The onward route is clear enough, and leads to an enclosed lane running down towards the old village school. The road here swings round the school and heads towards a row of cottages. Go left here to a junction, and then left again along a quiet road, keeping left at another junction to leave the village past a former Wesleyan chapel.

River bridge, Reeth

Always hugging the wall on your left, the path presses on to the top edge of Steps Wood, where a paved way, known as the ‘Nuns’ Causeway’ or ‘Nunnery Steps’, leads to the bottom edge of the wood, and on by a descending path to Marrick Priory (page 113). Go right along the road leading away from the priory, leaving it at a stile on the left to descend to the River Swale once more, following the course of the river as far as Grinton Bridge. Cross the road at the bridge and head diagonally right across fields, swinging round to meet the road close by Reeth Bridge. Follow the road, left, over the bridge and up into the centre of Reeth (page 111).

Reeth to Keld Distance Height Gain

19km (12 miles) 210m (690 feet)

Rightly described as the ‘Royal Road’, the route to Keld is magnificent riverside walking, in springtime and early summer across meadows lush with wild flowers. (The alternative high-level route is given in Appendix A, but much of it can be confusing in mist, and the potential for error is considerable. The lower, Swale, option is undoubtedly the best course.) For map, see pages 106–9

Leave Reeth along the B6270, but soon go left down Langhorne Drive. At the bottom of the road, turn right along a quiet lane that soon deteriorates into a rough, enclosed path leading down to the River Swale. Ignore the conspicuous footbridge across the Swale a short distance ahead, but keep on the true left bank of the river, shortly to cross in-flowing Barney Beck. Keep on to meet the road again.

Patterned fields near Gunnerside

After about 1.5km (1 mile), the road is left by branching down a path descending into Feetham Wood. Before long the path rejoins the river, following its course all the way to Isles Bridge. Go left on the bridge for a few strides, then, without crossing it, drop right to follow a riverside path once more, until flushed up onto the road for a short distance, escaping back to the river at the first opportunity. A walk along floodbanks follows, until the path briefly touches on the road before charging across a string of meadows to enter Gunnerside near the King’s Head Hotel. Turn left at the King’s Head, and cross the bridge spanning Gunnerside Beck to be faced with two roads ahead. Take the one on the left – it soon leads to an estate of modern stone-built houses known as Flatlands, passed by a signposted route to reach a meadow leading out towards the Swale. On approaching the river, the path climbs high above, to begin a series of

meadows and stiles leading to the village of Ivelet. Here, turn left and follow a surfaced road to Ivelet Bridge. Leave the road by a gate on the right before crossing the bridge, and follow the Swale on a green path through countless meadows as it swings round towards Ramps Holme Bridge. (This bridge is the means of access to Muker for walkers staying there.) Otherwise continue ahead, ignoring the bridge, to start northwards with the Swale a little more distant now. Follow a broad, clear path to the foot of Swinner Gill, cross the gill and start climbing steeply to arrive directly beneath Crackpot Hall (page 104). The path from Crackpot Hall continues above the river and Kisdon Gorge, gradually descending to meet the Pennine Way for a brief moment above East Gill Force. Here, by dropping to the river, the route crosses a bridge and climbs, right, to reach the village of Keld (page 102).

Upper Swaledale and Swinner Gill

Keld to Kirkby Stephen Distance Height Gain

17.8km (11 miles) 395m (1295 feet)

For map, see pages 98–100

Leave Keld by climbing up to the B6270 and then turning right to follow the road as far as its junction with the road heading right for Tan Hill. Start up this, but go only as far as the first bend, there leaving it for a path running along Cotterby Scar, above Smithy Holme Farm, past the gorge of Oven Mouth and on by pleasant pastures to Ravenseat. On reaching Ravenseat, go left to cross a bridge on the access road to this

isolated community. Note The onward route to Nine Standards Rigg is conventionally via Whitsundale, but the Yorkshire Dales National Park has introduced seasonal variations to the route to minimise the impact of erosion. These alternative routes are waymarked and notices are posted to advise which route to take, although the whole area is now Access Land.

On Nine Standards Rigg

Head out along the road and, shortly after a cattle-grid, move right to walk alongside a wall and follow this as it swings northwards to Whitsundale Beck. Then go left, following the course of the beck for a little over 2km (1¼ miles), until you can leave the dale by turning left up beside Craygill Sike, climbing steadily to join an older route near a peat grough and guidepost on the boundary of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. Here, bear right to walk up to Nine Standards Rigg, keeping ahead past the trig pillar to the Nine Standards themselves (page 99). From the centre of the line of ‘standards’ a green path departs left, at right angles, soon dropping to cross a drainage channel beyond which the path continues to descend along the course of Faraday Gill, aiming for and leading to a pile of stones and standing pillars at a site known on old maps as Faraday House. Just before this, you need to cross Faraday Gill (page 98) and continue downwards to meet a rough, stony track running to the right, parallel with a wall and leading uneventfully down to a surfaced lane, at a bend, not far from Fell House farm. Follow the road past the farm and on round Hartley Quarries to enter the village of Hartley (page 97) itself, at a sharp bend. Shortly afterwards, a path goes left across a clapper bridge to a back lane. Follow this to the right for a short distance, to reach a quiet lane on the left leading to a gate giving access to a meadow across which a path leads on to the River Eden (page 97), soon crossed at Frank’s Bridge.

Over the bridge, continue ahead and then right, up Stoneshot to enter Kirkby Stephen (page 95) at the Market Place.

2 LIMESTONE COUNTRY Kirkby Stephen to Orton Distance Height Gain

20.5km (12.8 miles) 80m (260 feet)

For map, see pages 84–7

Leave the Market Place in Kirkby Stephen by a small alleyway adjoining the Pennine Hotel, or by a similar passageway near the Black Bull Hotel. Both lead to a quieter back road. Turn left here, and follow the back road past West Garth Avenue and into a narrow passage flanked by garages and a drystone wall. Gradually the road deteriorates, ceases to have a metalled surface and becomes a farm access leading to Greenriggs Farm (Croglin Castle, page 93). Enter the farmyard and turn right around the end of the buildings, shortly going left between the abutments of a double railway underpass. Keep ahead and soon pass through a wall by a gate, then follow the left-hand field boundary alongside a drystone wall with a group of barns just to the right. Continue to a stile, and in the next field head directly away, climbing easily on a green path to cross a fence (stile), and then keep on to reach a wall. Another green path leads across the next field to an underpass beneath the Settle–Carlisle railway line (page 92). Go through the underpass and press on, aiming for a wall ahead, to the right of which there is a barn. Just after the barn, turn right, and continue easily across pastureland to a gap-stile in a wall, beyond which you reach a surfaced lane. Go left along the lane to a junction, and then right, following the lane to a gate and stile on the left, and there leaving it.

Smardale Beck

Follow a broad track across the northern shoulder of Smardale Fell before descending to a signpost near a wall. Now go forward, roughly parallel with the wall, which flanks an elongated enclosure. Keep on through a gate, and then descend by a wall to another gate at the head of a wide, walled track leading down to Smardale Bridge (page 90; Severals Settlement, page 89; Pillow Mounds, page 91). Cross the bridge and immediately turn right onto a rising path above the dale, and then bear right alongside a fence flanking an old railway line. Cross a gated bridge and bear right towards a ruined railway cottage. At the cottage, turn left and climb beside a wall, and then you have a choice. Either cross the wall at a through-stile just a short way further on, then keep left and simply follow the wall. Or continue up beside the wall, keeping above Severals Settlement to reach a gap-stile and waymark at the top of the large enclosure. Here cross the stile, when both routes enjoin. Now follow the wall, left, to a gate near a wall corner, and continue through this to reach and pass the turning to Bents Farm. The track presses on to a gate and forward alongside a wall, shortly approaching a fence and the raised

mound of a reservoir. When you reach a rough, stony track, go forward along this to an unenclosed road. Which route you take now depends on visibility and the weather. In poor visibility the crossing of Ravenstonedale Moor ahead may be confusing, though there is a discernible path all the way. Anyone not entirely happy with this is advised to turn right on meeting the road, walk through the hamlet of Mason Wath, and then go up to the junction with the Asby road. There turn left, and 1.8km (1.1 miles) further on, shortly after a cattle-grid, and due north of Sunbiggin Tarn (page 86), leave the road on the right at a bridleway signpost. In good conditions, the walk across the moor is invigorating. So, on reaching the road go forward down a broad track heading west. The immediate objective is a large walled enclosure about 300m away. Pass along the southern edge of this, and then ascend gently onto the grassy expanse of Ravenstonedale Moor. The track across the moor leads onto a gate in a wall that marks the boundary between Orton and Ravenstonedale parishes, from which the track climbs left onto heather moorland. Once in among the heather, Sunbiggin Tarn comes into view on the right. As you cross the moor, the track goes around the southern edge of a boggy hollow to a meeting of tracks. Visible off to the right at this point is a narrow road and Tarn Sike bridge. There is a direct track to the road from the junction, passing round the boggy hollow. Turn right along the road to cross Tarn Sike bridge and press on for another 200m to a bridleway signpost on the left. Note For the record, once on the road, the speediest way to Orton is simply to turn left and follow the road past Raisbeck and then onwards. But this is not the way of the Coast to Coast Walk, which opts for more attractive scenery to the north.

Road between Acres and Sunbiggin

From the bridleway sign, go onto a wide grassy track through heather. After about 100m the track bends left. Work your way up to a cross-path and there go left, climbing steadily to cross a wide, low ridge over which the track descends to another junction. Here turn left, and after about 200m go forward through a gate and along a walled track to Stony Head farm. At the farm the track becomes a surfaced lane. Continue along this, passing Sunbiggin farm, and go on as far as the farm at Acres. Take care along this stretch of road, which is often use by farm vehicles and animals on the move. At Acres, leave the road by branching right through a gate and onto a bridleway for Knott Lane. Initially, head across a large sloping pasture towards a group of tall trees. Near the trees cross a stile to begin a more-or-less straight traverse of numerous pastures. Keep to the right of the first field barn, and then target another ahead, following a well-defined route linked by gates and stiles. Continue beyond the second barn, maintaining direction, and eventually reach Knott Lane, where there is a choice of routes. Bypassing Orton Cross Knott Lane and a stile to the right of a gate. Strike across the ensuing field, half-right, to reach a lane near Scarside Farm. Go right, and follow the road past Friar Biggins Farm, and soon reach Scar Side Farm, where the road

swings left. After about 100m, leave the road by branching right onto a wide access heading for Broadfell Farm. Just before reaching the farm, leave the access by bearing right alongside a wall, and heading for a gate near the edge of a plantation. Through the gate, continue climbing on a clear track, passing a lime kiln and swinging left to a gate. From it, bear right to reach a road. Turn right. For Orton Turn left along Knott Lane, passing Gamelands Stone Circle (page 84), which lies over the wall on the left, and walk out to meet the main road linking Orton and Raisbeck. Turn right and follow the road to the southern edge of Orton (page 82; George Whitehead, page 82).

Orton to Shap Distance Height Gain

12.6km (7.9 miles) 130m (426ft)

For map, see pages 74–5

Either turn right immediately before the junction with the main village road and follow a quiet side road, passing the Wesleyan Chapel, and later crossing a bridge spanning a stream. Here, turn right onto another minor road. Or go forward to the main road and turn right, up through the village (fork left just after the pub if you want to visit the post office or tea room – you can rejoin the main road by turning right opposite the post office). Continue as far as a road on the right (directly opposite the turning to All Saints Church. Turn right along the road to a junction on the left (just before a bridge spanning a stream). Here, go left onto another minor road. Reunited, walk as far as a signposted path on the left (for Broadfell Farm), and here pass between houses to then bear right onto a walled track leading away from the village. From a gate, keep forward, following a stream and taking a clear route to Broadfell Farm. Head for a gate at the left-hand edge of the main farm buildings, and then go forward through two more gates to reach the foot of a sloping pasture. Walk up-field to a gate at the edge of a plantation, and then continue climbing on a clear track, passing a lime kiln and swinging left to a gate. From it, bear right to reach a road. Turn right and cross a cattle-grid to the nearby junction with the Crosby Ravensworth road. Here you have a choice. Either go left along the road, as far as a step-stile over a fence (on the left, off the road) about 200m beyond the northern edge of a plantation on the right.

Or take to a narrow green trod between the two roads, which strikes across grassy moorland, roughly targeting a plantation ahead. On reaching the plantation, keep right of it, walking along its boundary. At the far end, bear left to a wall corner, and there rejoin the Crosby Ravensworth road. A short way on, leave the road by branching left to a step-stile over a fence.

Robin Hood’s Grave

Over the stile, continue across a low, heathery shoulder onto Crosby Ravensworth Fell, across which the route is waymarked. Gradually it leads on to descend beside a wall and into a well-defined dip, within which lies the mound of stones known as Robin Hood’s Grave (page 78). Keep going beside the wall to cross another dip with a stream in it. Beyond this, bear left on a grassy track through heather to a wall corner, and there bear right. Walk roughly parallel with the wall, and when it bends right again, go with it, on a green track across moorland. The on-going track gradually moves away from the wall to join an old track, crossing Lyvennet Beck, from which you climb to a couple of large erratic boulders on the skyline. Climb past these and continue to a waymark pole just beyond which the track forks. Branch left and immediately right and shortly cross a stretch of limestone pavement. Continue to a large marker pole on the site of a tumulus. Descend now on a green path through more heather, aiming for the left-hand corner of a plantation, and from it bear half-right, passing a derelict sheepfold (‘bield’) and climbing gently to meet the course of a Roman road at a waymark post. Here, bear right along a broad green track – the course of the Roman road – and soon reach the straggly woodland at Potrigg and the more dense plantation beyond. The moorland track is a delight to follow and sweeps down to the edge of the hamlet of Oddendale (page 75). On the way, it passes the

Oddendale stone circle (page 75), though this is off to the left and not identifiable from a distance, although worth a visit. As the track meets the village road, bear left along it for a short distance, and then leave it altogether by going left along a stony track that leads to the access road into the Hardendale Quarry. Steps lead down to, and up the other side from, the access, which needs to be crossed with care, both to avoid vehicles and to minimise the glutinous impact of limestone mud. Across the access, bear right to a step-stile from which you thread limestone outcrops to reach a gate. From the gate, descend on a broad green track and round the end of a mainly grass-covered limestone lip. Then go forward to cross the narrow road to Hardendale (John Mill, page 74) and walk up to a gate in a wall corner near The Nab, an isolated farmhouse. Bear half-right from the gate, following an indistinct and narrow path as it descends through an area of granite boulders and hawthorn above the M6 motorway. From below a wall corner, walk roughly parallel with the motorway to reach a fence that then guides you to a footbridge. On the other side, turn immediately right to a through-stile in a wall, from which you strike across a wide pasture to another stile near a gate in a wall corner. Now keep ahead to reach and walk beside a wall to a gate/stile, beyond which a walled track leads you on and down to the west coast main railway line. As you descend the track, so the distant view is of the eastern fells of Lakeland, with High Street and the shapely peak of Kidsty Pike (maybe on tomorrow’s agenda) prominent in view. Cross the railway line by a bridge and swing right into the edge of a small housing estate. Go to the second turning on the left and follow this out to the A6, opposite the Kings Arms Hotel. Now turn right and walk through the village of Shap (page 72).

1 ACROSS LAKELAND Shap to Patterdale Distance Height Gain

24km (15 miles) 762m (2500 feet)

The final section of the journey roams across some of the finest landscape in Lakeland, a fine and fitting conclusion to the east–west walk. Anyone who has been struggling for the last day or so might well consider having a day’s rest in Shap before tacking what lies ahead. The final few days to St Bees can be arduous at the best of times – throw in inclement weather and it becomes quite an effort. Of course, there are other places to take a break, notably Patterdale and Grasmere. For map, see pages 56–9

There are two ways of continuing from Shap, and one of these further divides. (a) The longest heads north through this linear village as far as the side road for Bampton Grange, following this (largely without roadside verges) to a road bend where a narrow lane shoots off towards Shap Abbey. (b) The same narrow lane can be reached by a rather more attractive route, which later divides. Leave Shap by turning left, just on passing the fire station, into a small estate. Turn left again a moment later into West Close, and soon locate a signposted path (for ‘Keld’) on the right, passing between houses to a gate giving into a rising, elongated pasture. Go forward up and over the pasture, descending to a narrow gap-stile in a corner. A brief, narrow path then leads to another field in which stands the Goggleby Stone (page 70).

The Goggleby Stone, Shap

Walk past the stone, following the right-hand wall to a gate and stile giving onto a narrow track. Turn right and walk out to meet a surfaced lane at a bend. Here you have a further choice. The favoured route – (b)(i) – uses an old walled track, which is quite delightful, but rather boggy and often flooded for the last 200m or so; (b)(ii) is all on roads. (b)(i) At the lane, go left along Keld Lane for about 100m to a signposted path (‘Bampton Road’) on the right that follows a walled track. This is a lovely ancient route, and deserves more use. Sadly, it needs better drainage at the far end, though this is rarely a real problem. When it does finally emerge on the Bampton Road, it is immediately at the end of the branching lane for Shap Abbey. (b)(ii) Go forward at the road bend, following a twisting lane which eventually meets the Bampton road from Shap. On doing so, simply turn left to the road bend where the lane branches to Shap Abbey. At the head of the lane leading down to Shap Abbey all three routes have now rejoined.

Follow the lane as far as a cattle-grid, where the top of Shap Abbey comes into view. Cross the cattle-grid and soon leave the access road (which is not a right-of-way) to strike downfield to rejoin the access opposite the entrance to the car park for Shap Abbey (page 67). Go forward towards the car park and cross Abbey Bridge, which here spans the River Lowther, your first acquaintance with this river. Go left through a gate, and then immediately climb steeply left to a ladder-stile. Over the stile, follow the rim of the drop to the river, and then head across the ensuing pasture on a green trod, bearing slightly left to reach a distant wall and another ladder-stile. Cross the stile to enter an undulating pasture across which there is no discernible path. Head down to cross a stream, bearing slightly away from the left-hand wall. Climb above the stream, heading for the highest of a line of power lines that guide you across to a wall corner, where you have a minor choice of route. From the wall corner a permissive path runs left alongside the wall to a stepstile, immediately before which are the remains of an ancient earthwork in the form of a bank and ditch. Over the stile, a boggy path leads across rough ground to a narrow, surfaced lane. The right-of-way, however, runs from the wall corner across to a more northerly ladder-stile giving into an enclosed pasture. On the far side, a stepstile puts you on the narrow lane. Turn right and walk down the lane until it bends to the left, there leaving it by branching right to a ladder-stile giving into an enclosure containing a group of derelict farm buildings. Cross to another stile opposite, from which you strike half-left across the ensuing field to a wooded dell – aim for a gate. Pass the gate and drop beside a fence to gated Parish Crag Bridge, spanning

Swindale Beck. Over the bridge, go right alongside a fence (below Fairy Crag), which guides you to a stone stile below Goodcroft Farm. Beyond, the path curves round the end of a hill slope to another stile, and then follows a wall to a gate. Through the gate, go left on a broad track to Rosgill Bridge, once more (and for the final time) beside the River Lowther. On reaching a surfaced lane at Rosgill Bridge, immediately go left over a ladder-stile, and then bear slightly right up a grassy path that climbs through a spread of gorse to emerge (hopefully) opposite the entrance to Rawhead Farm. Go up towards the farm, keeping ahead to a step-stile beside a gate, and then continue in the same direction across the ensuing pasture, rising gently and then descending to another step-stile beyond which you go half-left towards a gate and stile. A grassy path now leads to a group of barns – High Park – and here keep to the left of the barns, following a permissive path (though the right-of-way seems to pass to the right of the barns). Either way, a fence guides you down to a step-stile on the left – the first step-stile can be ignored. Continue further down to another, beside a gate, over which a clear track branches right to descend towards Haweswater Beck.

Haweswater Beck

Cross a stile beside a gate, after which a broad grassy track bears away from the beck for a while to follow a small stream, rejoining Haweswater Beck at an old dam, beyond which lies Park Bridge. Turn towards the bridge, but don’t cross it. Instead, go on alongside the beck to reach Thornthwaite Force. A ladder-stile above gives on to an indistinct grassy path that leads to Naddle Bridge (old and new). Cross the old bridge, and the ladder-stile on the other side. Then cross the road and a stile opposite to enter a lovely wooded glade,

bright in spring with bluebells and stitchwort. Follow a clear path through the woodland, to emerge at a gate on the edge of Burnbanks (page 62). Cross the village road onto a signposted path opposite – ‘Fellside track via northwest shore of Haweswater to Upper Mardale’. Before long, the track climbs through trees and emerges above the intake, then follows a long and beautiful course above the reservoir as far as the foot of the ridge rising to Kidsty Pike, and reached just after in-flowing Randale Beck. The ascent to Kidsty Pike is quite tiring, but the view from the top is inspiring, and its summit marks the highest point of the walk. A short way beyond, it is worth diverting right (in clear conditions) to take a peep down into Ramps Gill (if you do this, then Rampsgill Head will actually be the highest point, being 12m higher than Kidsty Pike). Otherwise stick to a clear track that keeps left of Rampsgill Head to meet the ancient Roman ‘High Street’ (page 58) on the narrow neck of ground known as the Straits of Riggindale. Turn right here and follow a path round to the minor summit called The Knott, avoiding its summit (other than by way if a diversion), and keeping to the path as it swings round beneath it. The path passes through a collapsed wall and shortly abandons the direct descent to Hayeswater and Hartsop village. (Not that you need to, as the direct descent provides a lovely alternative way down. Once through the village of Hartsop, and just before reaching the valley road, turn right on a superb track that will lead all the way north to Rooking or Side Farm at Patterdale. This would be a good bad-weather alternative.) Otherwise, from below The Knott take the descending path heading right for Satura Crag and Angle Tarn. Beyond the tarn, the path skims past Angletarn Pikes, before threading an enjoyable way down to Boredale Hause, beneath the great mound of Place Fell. Go left at the hause to overlook Patterdale, and then strike off to descend to an intake gate, there going left past Rooking and along a narrow lane to Patterdale village (page 53), if your onward plans take you through Glenamara Park, or right through another gate, arriving near the valley bottom at Side Farm if you are heading up into Grisedale on the road past Patterdale Hall. From Side Farm, a broad track leads out to the village road at the George Starkey Memorial Hut.

Patterdale to Grasmere (Goody Bridge) Distance Height Gain

11km (7 miles) 445m (1460 feet)

For map, see pages 50–51

There are two ways into Grisedale from Patterdale village. One – (a) below – goes from near the White Lion, the other – (b), the easier – just past the church. Both routes rejoin at the entrance to the dale. (a) Opposite the White Lion turn onto a signposted path climbing past public toilets. At the rear of an isolated building, leave the track by turning left onto a signposted grassy path through bracken and heather. This leads to a gate giving onto open fellside. A path climbs rockily for a short while before descending to a kissing-gate to the left of two other gates. Through this, follow the on-going wall, then climb to a horizontal path before descending gently to cross Hag Beck on stepping stones. The path continues easily, crossing the slopes of Glenamara Park and the steeper slopes below Thornhow End. Follow the path as it runs alongside a wall bounding a pine plantation, and then maintain a level course as the wall drops away to the right. A short way on, the path rejoins a wall and leads to a gate. Through this, continue descending beside a wall to a couple of semicircular sheepfolds, and turn right through a gate, going down-field, past a barn to a surfaced track. Here the alternative escape from Patterdale is met. Turn left and follow the track upvalley. (b) Leave Patterdale heading for Glenridding and pass the church. At the next bend, leave the main road and go left on a minor road passing Patterdale Hall and climbing steadily. As the gradient eases, so Striding Edge and the high summits ahead spring into view. Keep forward to a gate (ignore the broad track descending to the right) and go ahead, through the gate, to be joined by the route from the White Lion. Now simply press on up the valley. When the track swings round to access Braesteads Farm, keep ahead onto a graded track to Elmhow Farm. After the farm, the path becomes increasingly rugged, as the route penetrates to the heart of the high fells and into a harsher, mountain landscape. Below Nethermostcove Beck, a footbridge crosses Grisedale Beck. Continue beyond on a rough path that leads on to join a path descending from nearby Ruthwaite Lodge.

Grisedale Beck

At this turning point, anyone wanting to shorten the walk needs only to cross a nearby footbridge and begin the return journey. Otherwise, climb up to Ruthwaite Lodge (page 51), which is dedicated to the memory of two instructors from Outward Bound Ullswater who were killed on Mount Cook in New Zealand in 1988. Past the lodge a clear path leads on, eventually to reach the lip of the mountain hollow housing Grisedale Tarn (page 50; Brother’s Parting, page 50). Keep to the left of the tarn, crossing its outflow and heading up to the obvious col on the left of Grisedale Hause. Cross the collapsed wall on the hause and, on the ensuing descent, as the path forks, either go right, following Little Tongue Gill, or left, crossing a stream near some attractive waterfalls, to follow Tongue Hill. Both routes rejoin at the foot of the Great Tongue. Cross the stream near their confluence, and pass through a sheep enclosure to reach a broad path descending to reach the main road at Mill Bridge. Whether bound for Grasmere (page 47) or continuing to Rosthwaite, cross the road with care and go into the descending lane opposite, passing the Old Mill Cottage and continuing to Low Mill Bridge, a small, humpbacked bridge spanning the River Rothay. Here turn left, still following a narrow lane, one that eventually leads past the turning to Thorney How Youth Hostel, and in due course meets a T-junction at Goody Bridge. On the way, the road gains a little height above the valley, and offers lovely views of the farmland and fells of Fairfield in particular. Throughout this section, Helm Crag rises steeply to its craggy summit, though nothing is seen from this angle of the rock figures that have become known as ‘The Lion and the Lamb’. Note Walkers bound for Grasmere need to turn left at the T-junction and walk down into the village, retracing this short section the next day. Those heading straight for Borrowdale should turn right at the T-junction to pass Goody Bridge Farm.

Grasmere (Goody Bridge) to Borrowdale (Rosthwaite) Distance Height Gain

11.3km (7 miles) 545m (1790 feet)

For map, see pages 44–5

Keep following the road into Easedale, passing the footbridge that takes walkers to Easedale Tarn. Stay along the road (signed for Far Easedale), which soon bends left and crosses a wide, open area of grassland.

Far Easedale Gill

Continue past Little Parrock cottage and, when the lane forks, branch right onto a bridleway, a stony track. A short way further on, when this forks, branch left, soon joining the company of Far Easedale Gill. A clear path now leads on into the dale to reach a footbridge at Stythwaite Steps – Stythwaite being the old name for the lower part of the valley. Over the footbridge and a short way further, ignore a tempting waymark above (which leads up to Easedale Tarn), and instead branch right onto a narrow path that continues the route up the valley. The path now rises steadily, at varying distances from the gill, until, near the head of the dale, it climbs more steeply, following a constructed path to reach the remains of an old fenceline on a col, which marks the parish boundary. Beyond lies the grassy gulf of upper Wythburn, and a narrow route across to

Greenup Edge. Descend from the old fencepost at the head of Far Easedale on a boggy path that cuts across the head of Wyth Burn and climbs to Greenup Edge. Greenup Edge is no place to be in poor visibility, and though there is a track across it, you can’t always find it, so a compass bearing would help here. Once across, however, a clear path descends to the top of Lining Crag, from where there is a spectacular view down the length of the valley that awaits. The descending route is never in doubt, and continues past the confluence with Langstrathdale to head for Rosthwaite.

Borrowdale (Rosthwaite) to Black Sail Youth Hostel Distance Height Gain

8.8km (5½ miles) 540m (1770 feet)

For map, see pages 36–7

Note Walkers not needing to visit Rosthwaite should bear left opposite Stonethwaite, cross a bridge and follow a walled track up to the hamlet. There turn right and walk out to the valley road, keeping straight across to follow an access road that leads to a bridge spanning the River Derwent close by the Borrowdale Youth Hostel (Longthwaite). Walkers wanting to go into Rosthwaite need only keep ahead, to eventually pass round the back of Hazel Bank Hotel and reach the village at its northern end. Turn left and almost immediately right (towards a car park), following the road past charming cottages. Go past the cottages and turn right to cross a humpback bridge spanning the Derwent. Immediately go left to reach the youth hostel. From the youth hostel, press on into the edge of Johnny’s Wood, never far from the Derwent, following a route linked by gates that eventually emerges into the edge of the car park at Seatoller. Go across the car park to the road and turn right through the village, and just after Dalehead Barn go right at a gate, at first heading away from Honister, before doubling back to follow the course of an old toll road to rejoin the surfaced road near the top of the pass. By a gate, enter the grounds of the Honister Slate Quarry (page 38). Go beyond the buildings, and in a short distance follow a path that climbs steeply to gain the line of an old tramway used by the quarry. Follow this until, as the gradient eases, you encounter an obvious path going left. Turn onto this, climbing gently until at a large cairn another track branches right (Moses’

Trod, page 35). Take the right branch and start gradually descending to the top of Loft Beck, a steep and friable gully that speeds you down to the head of Ennerdale, not far from Black Sail Youth Hostel.

Ennerdale (Black Sail Youth Hostel) to Ennerdale Bri dge Distance Height Gain

14km (8.8 miles) 40m (130 feet)

For map, see pages 32–4

From the youth hostel head along a broad track into Ennerdale Forest (some of which has been cleared in recent times). Press on to High Gillerthwaite and then Low Gillerthwaite, a short distance beyond which a path goes left across Irish Bridge to follow a delightful path along the southern shore of Ennerdale Water, grappling with Angler’s Crag before finally arriving at the western end of the lake, and a car park. Follow the lane out to a T-junction and there turn left to Ennerdale Bridge.

Ennerdale Bridge to Cleator Distance Height Gain

8.5km (5¼ miles) 380m (1245 feet)

For map, see pages 28–9

Leave Ennerdale Bridge (page 30) heading west, and at a junction go left up a fell road for about 1.5km (1 mile) to a track on the right. Turn onto the track, but soon leave it to go left into a sheltered valley through which flows Nannycatch Beck – this ultimately runs into the valley of Uldale, a truly quiet corner of Lakeland. Follow the obvious path to a gate below Flat Fell (Nannycatch Gate). Turn left here, following the path for a short distance until, on the far side of Raven Crag a very steep path rockets upwards on the right to a stile leading into forest. Go left along a forest trail and shortly branch right, climbing through the forest to emerge not far from the top of Dent fell.

Ennerdale Water

Continue ahead across Dent’s two tops, and down the other side, following clear paths to reach a surfaced lane near Black How Farm. A track leads around the farm buildings and on to another track leading to Blackhow Bridge, spanning the River Ehen. Cross the bridge and go ahead until you can turn left up Kiln Brow, to reach the main street of Cleator (page 26). Go left for a short distance and then take the first road on the right.

Cleator to St Bees Distance Height Gain

13.6km (8½ miles) 225m (740 feet)

For map, see pages 22–3

Follow the road as far as the cricket ground and then go round it, passing through a succession of gates and pastures, and crossing the trackbed of a former railway in the process. Finally you emerge onto another road. Turn right and walk down to the village of Moor Row. When you reach the post office you have a minor choice of routes. Either turn left and follow the road out of Moor Row, across the A595 and then along an enclosed track passing beneath a disused railway line. Or continue ahead up Dalzell Street until you reach the old railway trackbed, and turn down onto it, going left and following this traffic-free route (other than cyclists) until you reach the same point. The on-going path swings left along the northern edge of woodland to a gate. Through this, follow the field boundary, right, to a stile in a corner, near

Stanley Pond. Cross the ensuing field, diagonally left, to reach a railway underpass. On the other side, climb the field ahead to a track leading to Bell House farm and on to the B5345. Cross the road and follow an access track round to Demesne farm, and there turn left to pursue a delightful lane running out to Lane Head. Keep ahead, following the road round to Sandwith. At the southern edge of the village turn right on a narrow, enclosed road, until it branches right to head for a cliff-edge quarry where Whitehaven springs suddenly into view. Keep left on reaching the quarry and follow an obvious path around North and South Head, two component parts of St Bees Head. These are separated by Fleswick Bay (page 21), a short incursion into the cliffs, preceded by a coastguard lookout station and St Bees lighthouse. The path runs on in a lovely manner before finally descending dramatically to the seashore at St Bees (page 17). Once across Rottington Beck you may consider that you have completed the walk across northern England ‘from coast to coast’. Congratulations – well done!

APPENDIX A: Variant Route Descriptions 3 INTO THE DALES Keld to Reeth (high-level route) Distance Height Gain

17km (10½ miles) 545m (1790 feet)

Leave Keld by a rough lane running southeast (signposted ‘Kisdon Force’ and ‘Muker’), and soon branch left and down, to cross the Swale by a footbridge. Above East Gill Force the onward route is signposted, through a gate and climbing impressively above Kisdon Gorge, and soon, at a fork, branching left to the ruins of Crackpot Hall. CRACKPOT HALL AND SURROUNDS Crackpot Hall, commanding a superlative position above the Swale, would once have been a most attractive farmhouse. Alas, subsidence caused by mining activities hastened its demise, an event that came in the 1950s and which must surely have saddened its occupants, in spite of the no doubt punishing existence that life among these isolated farming communities entailed. The farmhouse was built by Lord Wharton for his keeper, who managed the red deer that roamed the wooded hillsides in the 17th century. Tempting as it may seem so to think, the name of the farm is no comment on the mental state of its occupants, deriving instead from the ‘pot’ (i.e. pot hole or cave) ‘of the crows’. Throughout much of the remaining journey towards Reeth there is evidence in abundance of the mining activities that once took place here – ruined smelt mills, chimneys, flues, old shafts, levels, hushes, spoil heaps, wheel pits, watercourses, reservoirs and dams. Although in the eyes of some they may seem to mar the landscape, they also form an essential ingredient of importance and interest to those who view the walk as a journey through time and history, as well as a satisfying way of passing a couple of weeks. Lead mining probably began in the Dales before the arrival of the Romans, but the first clear evidence comes from ‘pigs’ of smelted lead bearing the names of Roman emperors, discovered at Hurst Mines just north of Reeth, and near Grassington in Wharfedale. The industry was also carried out by the AngloSaxons, by monks of the many monasteries and priories that dotted the pre-Henry VIII English landscape, and during Tudor times. But the activity reached its peak during the late 18th and early 19th centuries, and most of the physical remains that are encountered on the walk are relics of that time. Just before reaching the ruins of Crackpot Hall, for example, the path crosses the line of Old Field Hush, a grooved scouring of the hillside caused by the artificial damming up of water above, which, when released, flushed surface debris and soil away to reveal much-prized minerals and ore, or at least the suggestion that a vein of ore might be present. The Old Field Hush was worked from 1738 to 1846, during a time of much squabbling between the Parkes brothers, owners of nearby Beldi Hill Mines, and Lord Pomfret, whose mines were in Swinner Gill.

Continue on the track rising behind Crackpot Hall, and past buildings of a former smithy. The view down the valley towards Muker is here quite exhilarating, as the path becomes narrow and rocky, turning under the crumbling sandstone outcrops of Buzzard Scar and into the awesome gorge of Swinner Gill.

SWINNER GILL At the head of the gill, at the junction with Grain Gill, is a fine stone bridge, while across the bridge are the ruins of Swinnergill Mines, with dressing floors and the decaying hulk of the smelt mill. The mineral veins worked by the lead miners are especially numerous on the north side of Swaledale. The veins run approximately W–E and NW–SE, so that the four tributaries of the Swale, of which Swinner Gill is the first, cut across a complex of veins allowing them to be discovered and worked. Swinner Gill well illustrates this, and further evidence awaits in Gunnerside Gill, Hard Level Gill and Arkle Beck. In the gorge to the left of Upper Swinner Gill lies Swinnergill Kirk, in reality a cave where, during times of religious persecution, those of the Catholic faith would meet and pray in secret. Quite why, having struggled so far into the wild heartland of these rolling hillsides, the necessity would still be felt to seek out the seclusion of a cave, is unclear, but it invests an otherwise bleak and inhospitable spot with a dash of much-needed colour. Botanists will also find a diversion into the gill of interest, for its damp atmosphere and wet rocks and ledges are home to a host of unusual flowers, ferns, mosses and liverworts.

Beyond the ruins of the smelt mill the path climbs stiffly for a while along the line of East Grain, the gradient easing just before the broad scar of a shooters’ track is encountered. Now follow the track to the left, climbing easily to the highest point on the moor, just after a fence, and near a distinct branch to the left leading to the summit of lonely Rogan’s Seat. As the high point of this stretch is reached, there is a glimpse, right, of Moss Dam, a relic of the mining days, now almost concealed by the ever-encroaching heather.

Continue ahead, descending gently as far as an old enclosure on the left. A short way ahead the main track bends right to head for Gunnerside. Before reaching this point look for two smallish cairns on the left, leading to a larger one. Leave the main track here and follow a narrow path heading towards Gunnerside Gill. For a while the path skims along the rim of North Hush before moving away, northeast, to descend, steeply in places, to Blind Gill and the remains of the Blakethwaite Lead Mine. Cross the stream by a slab bridge to reach the cloistered remains of a once fine building, thought to be a smelt mill. GUNNERSIDE GILL Little more than a century ago the long ravine of Gunnerside Gill was a scene of intense mining activity. It is visited now only by walkers and those with an interest in industrial archaeology. For the latter, it must be a wonderland, for in spite of its present-day quiet, little imagination is needed to call forth the sounds of men labouring hard and long hours, often with bare hands and primitive tools. That this mangled landscape is a mess is obvious – it would take a tolerant eye to find beauty here, yet it is a compelling place to visit and, ironically, a perfect counterpoint to the surfeit of natural beauty that is Swaledale itself.

Behind the smelt mill, take a path zigzagging steeply up the hillside to meet a green, terraced pathway. Turn right along this, with fine views down towards Gunnerside, and continue in airy fashion as far as Friarfold Hush, and then on towards Bunton Hush. The scenery here is confusing, a mess of spoil, litter, gullies, hushes and collapsed walls. A number of gullies lead to the moors above, but the one beneath a conspicuous fractured cliff has rather more sense of purpose than

the others, and rises easily to a low grassy ridge on the right, where a line of cairns is encountered, heading safely round and up to the highest ground. Here, by a large cairn, a broad gravel track is met, and followed ahead, through continuing devastation, with barely a blade of grass in evidence, to the Old Gang Mines at the head of Old Gang Beck. In spite of the unremitting barrenness of the terrain, there is never any doubt about the onward route once the high moorland is reached, though there is precious little in the way of shelter for anyone caught out by a sudden change in the weather. The heather-clad moors are gone, replaced by an arid desolation that only man can create, sad but awesome in its bleakness. On a clear day a first glimpse may be had of the Cleveland Hills, still some way ahead. Flincher Gill is crossed by a stone bridge, beyond which the track continues as roughly as ever, through a gate and onto the Old Gang Smelt Mill, built about 1770 and conspicuous by its tall chimney, and now undergoing restoration work. LEAD-MINING FLUES The remains of lead-mining activity here are particularly extensive, and include furnace houses, arches of ore hearths and a system of flues – one flue leads up to a chimney on Healaugh Crag. The flues were constructed to create a draught for the furnaces. Much of the lead fume was condensed in the flues and could be recovered, which also prevented the poisoning of animals.

Easy walking now leads on to Surrender Bridge, where the beck is crossed by an unenclosed moorland road along which some of the television series ‘All Creatures Great and Small’ was filmed. Stay on the north side of the beck and follow a signposted path above the Surrender Smelt Mill, then on through heather to the edge of steep-sided Cringley Bottom, a narrow ravine. Cross the ravine, climb to a stile at the wall above, and go onto an improving path above enclosure walls. With no difficulty the path runs on to Thirns Farm, where it branches left, ignoring a descending path to Healaugh. It climbs steeply to Moorcock Cottage, before once more skirting above enclosure walls, and below Calver Hill, a shapely if modest hill. Above the farm of Riddings keep ahead on a path across the moor to meet a wall corner, just beyond which a gate gives access to a hidden, and enclosed, green track, known as Skelgate. With unerring ease and superb onward views across Arkle Beck to the shattered wall of Fremington Edge, Skelgate will deliver you on to the B6270 a short way west of the centre of Reeth. Go left along the road to enter Reeth.

Reeth to Keld (high-level route)

Distance Height Gain

17km (10½ miles) 625m (2050 feet)

Leave Reeth on the B6270 for about 250m to a signposted track, Skelgate Lane, on the right. Follow the track upwards and round to emerge at the intake wall. Go left, above the wall, keeping ahead as far as Moorcock Cottage, where the path descends to farm buildings at Thirns. Shortly after the farm, when the path forks, take the right branch, climbing gently. A fine moorland path ensues, keeping ahead as far as the intervening gully of Cringley Bottom. Cross the gully with care and continue through heather past Surrender Smelt Mill to Surrender Bridge. Keeping on the north side of Old Gang Beck, a good track continues far into a region of industrial dereliction to a gate near in-flowing Flincher Gill. Turn left across a bridge spanning the gill and press on, rising steadily to the highest part of this broad and barren moorland crossing. As Gunnerside Gill is approached, so the scenery becomes even more confusing. A large cairn marks the departure, left, of a good track down towards Gunnerside Gill (page 230), meeting a well-trodden terraced path still some distance above the valley bottom, and in an area of considerable spoil and debris. Continue down to the remains of Blakethwaite Smelt Mill. Cross the stream by a bridge and start climbing by a zigzag path to reach the top of North Hush, before swinging away and gently upwards to arrive at a broad moorland shooters’ track, near a group of modest cairns. Go right, along the track, ignoring its diversion towards the summit of Rogan’s Seat, continuing ahead, still on a broad track, descending into Swinner Gill. Near more smelt mills, cross a fine arched stone bridge and pass beneath the cliffs of Buzzard Scar, before the path swings round to, first, an old smithy, and then the ruins of Crackpot Hall (page 227). Just below Crackpot Hall the main line through Swaledale is rejoined.

4 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY Bolton-on-Swale to Danby Wiske Distance Height Gain

10km (6¼ miles) None

At St Mary’s Church go left along the lane to a stile on the right, just after a large building in private grounds. In the ensuing field, follow a path, left, which escorts lazy Bolton Beck round the field edge to a step-stile. In the next field, follow the edge, and do the same again in the next field to reach a

dilapidated stone bridge on the left. Cross the bridge and a stile, and then walk downstream to meet the access track to Layland’s Farm. Cross the farm track, and in the next field follow the beck to a stile near a bridge, giving onto a lane near Ellerton Hill. Go left now along the lane, following it through the shadowy confines of Fatten Hill and Hodber Hill plantations to a minor crossroads. Go left and immediately right towards Whitwell, to a corner. Now follow the road to Streetlam, a sleepy community where the telephone box is the centrepiece! Immediately on crossing the road at Streetlam, either stay on the road and follow it to Danby Wiske, or look for a signposted stile on the right. Cross this and go left along the field edge, avoiding the small white gate, and heading for a larger one nearby. Pass through the gate, ignore the large gap on the right, and move left, avoiding small allotments and paddocks, to follow the field boundary by numerous stiles towards West Farm. As the farm is reached, a slight departure from the field hedgerow moves half-right to a stile before resuming its hedge-hugging progress. Eventually the fields are left at an access track to Middle Farm. Go left here and soon rejoin the minor road leading, right, down Park Hill to Danby Wiske.

Danby Wiske to Bolton-on-Swale Distance Height Gain

10km (6¼ miles) 55m (180 feet)

Keep ahead through Danby Wiske and either follow the road all the way to Streetlam, or leave it after about 1km (0.6 miles) by a farm access track on the left, leading to Middle Farm. Not long after leaving the road, abandon the access track for a signposted path, right, along a field boundary towards West Farm, then continue ahead along more field boundaries to emerge onto the road at Streetlam. At Streetlam, keep ahead at a road junction, following a minor road all the way to Ellerton Hill, with only a slight deviation, left then immediately right, near Hodber Hill Plantation. Pass a row of cottages (at right angles to the road) at Ellerton Hill, and continue as far as a redbrick bridge. Leave the road there by crossing a stile on the right. Follow the course of Bolton Beck on the left (all the way, in fact, to Bolton-on-Swale), initially round a field edge to an access track serving Layland’s Farm. Cross this, and keep forward alongside the beck to a dilapidated bridge. Cross the bridge and turn right, still following the beck and a field-edge path across fields and stiles until it eventually runs into a field corner at the edge of Bolton-on-Swale. Turn left towards the church (page

126; Henry Jenkins, page 126).

APPENDIX B: Useful Addresses Youth Hostels Youth Hostels Association Trevelyan House Dimple Road Matlock Derbys DE4 3YH Telephone 01629 592600 Fax 01629 592702 E-mail [email protected] Website www.yha.org.uk National Parks Lake District National Park Authority Murley Moss Oxenholme Road Kendal Cumbria LA9 7RL Telephone 01539 724555 Fax 01539 740822 E-mail [email protected] Website www.lake-district.gov.uk North York Moors National Park Authority The Old Vicarage Bondgate Helmsley York YO62 5BP Telephone 01439 770657 Fax 01439 770691 E-mail [email protected] Website www.moors.uk.net Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority Colvend Hebden Road

Grassington Skipton BD23 5LB Telephone 01756 752748 Fax 01756 752645 E-mail [email protected] Website www.yorkshiredales.org.uk Tourist Boards Cumbria Tourist Board Ashleigh Holly Road Windermere Cumbria LA23 2AQ Telephone 015394 44444 Fax 015394 44041 E-mail [email protected] Website www.gocumbria.org Western Lake District Tourism Partnership 13–15 The Pottery Market Place Whitehaven Cumbria CA28 7XJ Telephone 01946 599158 E-mail [email protected] Website www.western-lakedistrict.co.uk Yorkshire Tourist Board 312 Tadcaster Road York North Yorkshire YO24 1GS Telephone 01904 701100 Fax 01904 701414 Website www.yorkshirevisitor.com

BIBLIOGRAPHY A Coast to Coast Walk, A Wainwright (Westmorland Gazette, 1973, Frances Lincoln, 2003) Companion into Lakeland, Maxwell Fraser (Methuen, 3rd ed. 1943) Cumbrian Discovery, Molly Lefebure (Victor Gollancz, 1977) The English Lake District, Molly Lefebure (BT Batsford, 1964) The English Lakes, Frank Singleton (BT Batsford, 1954) Geology Explained in the Lake District, Robert Prosser (David and Charles, 1977) Geology Explained in the Yorkshire Dales and on the Yorkshire Coast, Derek Brumhead (David and Charles, 1979) Guide to the English Lake District, MJB Baddeley (Ward, Lock and Co.) A History of Lead Mining in the Pennines, Arthur Raistrick and Bernard Jennings (Longmans, Green & Co. Ltd, 1965) Illustrated Lakeland Journals, Dorothy Wordsworth (Collins, 1987) The Lake Counties: Cumberland and Westmorland, Arthur Mee (Hodder and Stoughton, 1937) The North York Moors, Nicholas Rhea (Robert Hale, 1985) North York Moors National Park, National Park Guide No. 4, Arthur Raistrick (ed.) (HMSO, 1966) Portrait of Cumbria, JD Marshall (Robert Hale, 1981) Portrait of Yorkshire, Harry J Scott (Robert Hale, 1965) Rambles in Lake Country, Edwin Waugh (John Heywood, London, c. 1898) Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk (Michael Joseph, 1987) Walking in the Lake District, HH Symonds (W & R Chambers, Edinburgh, 1947) Walking through Eden, Neil Hanson (Pavilion Books Limited, 1990) The Yorkshire Pennines of the North-West, W Riley (Herbert Jenkins Ltd, London, 1934) Accommodation Booklets Coast to Coast Bed & Breakfast Accommodation Guide, D. Whitehead (www.coasttocoastguides.co.uk) Coast to Coast Walk Accommodation Guide (www.coast-to-coast.org.uk)

LISTING OF CICERONE GUIDES BRITISH ISLES CHALLENGES, COLLECTIONS AND ACTIVITIES The End to End Trail The Mountains of England and Wales 1 Wales & 2 England The National Trails The Relative Hills of Britain The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland The UK Trailwalker’s Handbook The UK’s County Tops Three Peaks, Ten Tors

MOUNTAIN LITERATURE Unjustifiable Risk?

UK CYCLING Border Country Cycle Routes Cycling in the Peak District Lands End to John O’Groats Cycle Guide Mountain Biking in the Lake District Mountain Biking on the South Downs The Lancashire Cycleway

SCOTLAND Backpacker’s Britain Central and Southern Scottish Highlands Northern Scotland Ben Nevis and Glen Coe North to the Cape Not the West Highland Way Scotland’s Best Small Mountains Scotland’s Far West Scotland’s Mountain Ridges Scrambles in Lochaber The Ayrshire and Arran Coastal Paths The Border Country The Central Highlands The Great Glen Way The Isle of Mull

The Isle of Skye The Pentland Hills: A Walker’s Guide The Southern Upland Way The Speyside Way The West Highland Way Walking in Scotland’s Far North Walking in the Cairngorms Walking in the Hebrides Walking in the Ochils, Campsie Fells and Lomond Hills Walking in Torridon Walking Loch Lomond and the Trossachs Walking on Harris and Lewis Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay Walking on the Isle of Arran Walking on the Orkney and Shetland Isles Walking the Galloway Hills Walking the Lowther Hills Walking the Munros 1 Southern, Central and Western Highlands 2 Northern Highlands and the Cairngorms Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glen Coe Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms World Mountain Ranges: Scotland

NORTHERN ENGLAND TRAILS A Northern Coast to Coast Walk Backpacker’s Britain Northern England Hadrian’s Wall Path The Dales Way The Pennine Way The Spirit of Hadrian’s Wall

NORTH EAST ENGLAND, YORKSHIRE DALES AND PENNINES Historic Walks in North Yorkshire South Pennine Walks The Cleveland Way and the Yorkshire Wolds Way The North York Moors The Reivers Way The Teesdale Way The Yorkshire Dales Angler’s Guide

The Yorkshire Dales North and East South and West Walking in County Durham Walking in Northumberland Walking in the North Pennines Walking in the Wolds Walks in Dales Country Walks in the Yorkshire Dales Walks on the North York Moors – Books 1 & 2

NORTH WEST ENGLAND AND THE ISLE OF MAN Historic Walks in Cheshire Isle of Man Coastal Path The Isle of Man The Ribble Way Walking in Cumbria‘s Eden Valley Walking in Lancashire Walking in the Forest of Bowland and Pendle Walking on the West Pennine Moors Walks in Lancashire Witch Country Walks in Ribble Country Walks in Silverdale and Arnside Walks in the Forest of Bowland

LAKE DISTRICT Coniston Copper Mines Great Mountain Days in the Lake District Lake District Winter Climbs Lakeland Fellranger The Central Fells The Mid-Western Fells The Near Eastern Fells The North-Western Wells The Southern Fells The Western Fells Roads and Tracks of the Lake District Rocky Rambler’s Wild Walks Scrambles in the Lake District North & South Short Walks in Lakeland

1 South Lakeland 2 North Lakeland 3 West Lakeland The Cumbria Coastal Way The Cumbria Way and the Allerdale Ramble Tour of the Lake District

DERBYSHIRE, PEAK DISTRICT AND MIDLANDS High Peak Walks The Star Family Walks Walking in Derbyshire White Peak Walks The Northern Dales The Southern Dales

SOUTHERN ENGLAND A Walker’s Guide to the Isle of Wight London – The definitive walking guide The Cotswold Way The Greater Ridgeway The Lea Valley Walk The North Downs Way The South Downs Way The South West Coast Path The Thames Path Walking in Bedfordshire Walking in Berkshire Walking in Kent Walking in Sussex Walking in the Isles of Scilly Walking in the Thames Valley Walking on Dartmoor Walking on Guernsey Walking on Jersey Walks in the South Downs National Park

WALES AND WELSH BORDERS Backpacker’s Britain – Wales Glyndwr’s Way Great Mountain Days in Snowdonia Hillwalking in Snowdonia

Hillwalking in Wales Vols 1 & 2 Offa’s Dyke Path Ridges of Snowdonia Scrambles in Snowdonia The Ascent of Snowdon The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path The Shropshire Hills The Spirit Paths of Wales The Wye Valley Walk Walking in Pembrokeshire Walking on the Brecon Beacons Welsh Winter Climbs

INTERNATIONAL CHALLENGES, COLLECTIONS AND ACTIVITIES Canyoning Europe’s High Points The Via Francigena (Canterbury to Rome): Part 1

EUROPEAN CYCLING Cycle Touring in France Cycle Touring in Ireland Cycle Touring in Spain Cycle Touring in Switzerland Cycling in the French Alps Cycling the Canal du Midi Cycling the River Loire The Danube Cycleway The Grand Traverse of the Massif Central The Way of St James

AFRICA Climbing in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas Kilimanjaro: A Complete Trekker’s Guide Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas Trekking in the Atlas Mountains Walking in the Drakensberg

ALPS – CROSS-BORDER ROUTES

100 Hut Walks in the Alps Across the Eastern Alps: E5 Alpine Ski Mountaineering 1 Western Alps 2 Central and Eastern Alps Chamonix to Zermatt Snowshoeing Tour of Mont Blanc Tour of Monte Rosa Tour of the Matterhorn Trekking in the Alps Walking in the Alps Walks and Treks in the Maritime Alps

PYRENEES AND FRANCE/SPAIN CROSS-BORDER ROUTES Rock Climbs in The Pyrenees The GR10 Trail The Mountains of Andorra The Pyrenean Haute Route The Pyrenees The Way of St James France & Spain Through the Spanish Pyrenees: GR11 Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees

AUSTRIA Trekking in Austria’s Hohe Tauern Trekking in the Stubai Alps Trekking in the Zillertal Alps Walking in Austria

EASTERN EUROPE The High Tatras The Mountains of Romania Walking in Bulgaria’s National Parks Walking in Hungary

FRANCE Ecrins National Park GR20: Corsica Mont Blanc Walks

Mountain Adventures in the Maurienne The Cathar Way The GR5 Trail The Robert Louis Stevenson Trail Tour of the Oisans: The GR54 Tour of the Queyras Tour of the Vanoise Trekking in the Vosges and Jura Vanoise Ski Touring Walking in Provence Walking in the Cathar Region Walking in the Cevennes Walking in the Dordogne Walking in the Haute Savoie North & South Walking in the Languedoc Walking in the Tarentaise and Beaufortain Alps Walking on Corsica

GERMANY Germany’s Romantic Road Walking in the Bavarian Alps Walking in the Harz Mountains Walking the River Rhine Trail

HIMALAYA Annapurna: A Trekker’s Guide Bhutan Everest: A Trekker’s Guide Garhwal and Kumaon: A Trekker’s and Visitor’s Guide Kangchenjunga: A Trekker’s Guide Langtang with Gosainkund and Helambu: A Trekker’s Guide Manaslu: A Trekker’s Guide The Mount Kailash Trek

IRELAND Irish Coastal Walks The Irish Coast to Coast Walk The Mountains of Ireland

ITALY

Gran Paradiso Italy’s Sibillini National Park Shorter Walks in the Dolomites Through the Italian Alps Trekking in the Apennines Trekking in the Dolomites Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vols 1 & 2 Walking in Abruzzo Walking in Sicily Walking in the Central Italian Alps Walking in the Dolomites Walking in Tuscany Walking on the Amalfi Coast

MEDITERRANEAN Jordan – Walks, Treks, Caves, Climbs and Canyons The Ala Dag The High Mountains of Crete The Mountains of Greece Treks and Climbs in Wadi Rum, Jordan Walking in Malta Western Crete

NORTH AMERICA British Columbia The Grand Canyon The John Muir Trail The Pacific Crest Trail

SOUTH AMERICA Aconcagua and the Southern Andes Hiking and Biking Peru’s Inca Trails Torres del Paine

SCANDINAVIA Trekking in Greenland Walking in Norway

SLOVENIA, CROATIA AND MONTENEGRO The Julian Alps of Slovenia The Mountains of Montenegro

Trekking in Slovenia Walking in Croatia

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL Costa Blanca Walks 1 West & 2 East Mountain Walking in Southern Catalunya The Mountains of Central Spain Trekking through Mallorca Via de la Plata Walking in Madeira Walking in Mallorca Walking in the Algarve Walking in the Canary Islands 2 East Walking in the Cordillera Cantabrica Walking in the Sierra Nevada Walking on La Gomera and El Hierro Walking on La Palma Walking on Tenerife Walking the GR7 in Andalucia Walks and Climbs in the Picos de Europa

SWITZERLAND Alpine Pass Route Central Switzerland The Bernese Alps Tour of the Jungfrau Region Walking in the Valais Walking in Ticino Walks in the Engadine

TECHNIQUES Geocaching in the UK Indoor Climbing Lightweight Camping Map and Compass Mountain Weather Moveable Feasts Outdoor Photography Rock Climbing

Sport Climbing The Book of the Bivvy The Hillwalker’s Guide to Mountaineering The Hillwalker’s Manual

MINI GUIDES Avalanche! Navigating with a GPS Navigation Pocket First Aid and Wilderness Medicine Snow For full information on all our guides, and to order books and eBooks, visit our website: www.cicerone.co.uk.